I made my first slipcase last night and it came out SO much better than I anticipated - even though I accidentally assembled it inside out lol. This video was so helpful! Also, the yellow card reinforcement made such a big difference. The slipcase quality was much higher than a standard mass produced version. Thank you so much! 🙏
I made a slipcase for a special edition book I bought last year, following this tutorial, and it has turned out great! I was convinced I would get the measurements wrong somewhere along the way, but seeing the book fit snugly inside the box was very satisfying to see! Now I just need to find the right material to cover it.
Adding the card to the board is a great idea. It's functionaly similar to a rebate in wood joinery, creating a complex shape to the join, and increasing the gluing surface area.
I'm happy to say I just made one of your slipcases worked out well little roomy at the head but otherwise it's perfect. Tanks for the information on how to do it.
Thank you so much for this nice tutorial! I am making a slipcase along with you. Only I do not want the rounded head and tail pieces. Do you already cut them to size (and calculate the length?), if you want them to be straight, or do you cut them off later? And how would you do that? Trying to get the right order of things. Thanks a lot!
Will do, thanks! I recently bought a few slipcases that I really liked for some collector books I got, and it's gotten me interested in casing up a bunch of other books as well. Your video, I think, is going to be really helpful!@@DASBookbinding
Hello, I am so happy to found your Videos. I am a collector and want to safe my books by using a slipcase. It is sometimes just a little hard for me as a german to understand, which materials you use. You will get many questions about this next time because as an old joiner a writer and collector i just fall in love with bookbinding. First question for now is the glue you called "Mix". After look at your videos i think it's a mix from PVA and your selfemade glue, right? Best wishes from Germany
Hi Torsten. Yes, every country has different methods and materials. Often small but interesting variations. Bookbinders generally use 2 types of adhesive that have very different properties. Starch paste has a lot of moisture, it penetrates materials, and it takes awhile to key to a surface, and materials attached using it can be moved around. PVA puts less moisture into materials, is very strong, is a surface adhesive, and tacks very fast (short open time is another way it is described). Once things are put together with they are stuck and can't be moved around and pulled apart (easily or without some damage). Mix is usually a 50:50 combination of paste and PVA. Mix has the benefits of both worlds. It has a longer open time but is strong and imparts less moisture than straight paste. I mostly use mix for glueing 2 sheets of paper together as in a made endpaper. But as you've noticed I'll also use it where I want to use PVA but need a safety net of maybe having to position something or need to temporarily remove something. Some people substitute methyl cellulose (MC) for paste and EVA for PVA (EVA is sometimes described as reversible - but this depends). For more advanced restoration and conservation protein adhesives like hide glue and gelatine are sometimes used. Good luck and have fun!
Hi 👋 Not sure what ledger paper is, what else can I use please? And if the slipcase is going to be covered with book cloth would you still use Manila card ? Thank you 😊
@@ncapitan1 Thanks for asking my question for me! I repair donated books for a bookshop cooperative near Bristol in UK, and really enjoy Darryn's videos. He explains everything very clearly, without waffling.
Thank you for share this. I learnt a lot with these indications. I wonder if grain direction (in ledger paper, board and Manilla card) is so relevant here as it is in bookbinding (I am making A6 sized books and scraps could serve for this purpose).
Since the box is constrained on 3 sides you would think not. But I think a box that gaped (the opening warps) open would not be very nice. So the side boards and lining paper on these I think is important. Maybe less important on the sides. All the best, Darryn
Head to tail for the big boards, to stop the opening bowing out. Thin boards are less important, but I think long grain is best. In the short direction expansion will be tiny and it will just make the case slightly wider - a tiny fraction of a mm. But once it's covered it will be very stable anyway. DAS
I was looking for a video about how to repair a slipcase. I have an expensive folio set and the slipcase has a split edge. It's covered in red cloth. Any suggestions.
I assume you just want it repaired rather than to become an expert in repairing cloth covered books. In which case I'd suggest paying someone to do it for you. I know it sounds like an easy repair, and should be for someone with the knowledge, skills and materials on hand, but for someone else it would be easy to make it look worse. For any job I do, unless it's something I've done a heap of times I'll do some practice on a mock-up of the job. So, if you decide to try this yourself, you should do some practices first too. Just buy a cheap modern hardcover novel with similar covering fabric from a church book sale. If there is no material missing it then depends on the nature of the split and board underneath. Assuming it's a neat split and the board isn't crushed and using a micro spatula I can get some adhesive under it (really small amounts - just enough to do the job) I would try and get EVA under it and then hold it closed while the adhesive sets up. A very gentle bone over the join and it should be hard to see. If the board is crushed and damaged then I would try and introduce a bit of moisture to make it swell. Maybe using a hypodermic I put some water in the board and leave it over night - a really small amount. Assuming it swells and and back to roughly original shape I might do first option. But if there might be a gap in the cloth I might mix heavy body acrylic paint with some methyl cellulose as an adhesive. I'd match the colour of the cloth. If there is cloth missing I'd infill with some medium to light weight Japanese washi coloured with acrylic to match the cloth. I know it sounds simple, and is and I'm sure you could do it, but it is a lot of mucking about if you don't have a bench already set up with all these tools and materials within arms reach. Good luck! DAS
Hi, just wondering where you source materials in aus? I’m in Melbourne, and can only find a minimal selection of bookcloth/ thread ect at a few art shops.
If you want a range of linen thread I recommend importing from Hewits. You could get a spool of each size in a small parcel box from the UK and it will be much cheaper than buying from an Australian store. I always try and max out what I can get in a small parcel. Hewits are super helpful and you can write sales directly about getting quotes on postage. Book cloth is difficult. QBG has a good stock of cloth and sells to members at a very good price. This is only useful for Brisbane, but I mention it because there is a Victorian Bookbinders' Guild and they may sell materials too. There is Cali Andersen in Sydney, but then you have postage, but she may be your best shot. bookbindingaustralia.com.au/product-category/binding-materials/ I'm also friends with a local professional bookbinder who will sell me small quantities of bookcloth. Maybe there is a bookbinder in Melbourne that would do the same for you. Good luck! DAS
Great video. I’m actually going to make a few of these. Is it “traditional” to make the case shallower than the book with the rounded tails rather than making the case as deep as the entire book?
I think I use PVA and PVA mix (50/50 mix of PVA and methyl cellulose) for this project. The brand of PVA I use is Evasol, which I think is only available in Australia. DAS
What bookbinding book is that in the beginning of the video? It looks like it has a lot of really cool designs in there. NEVERMIND, I JUST READ THE DESCRIPTION. IGNORE ME.
I made my first slipcase last night and it came out SO much better than I anticipated - even though I accidentally assembled it inside out lol. This video was so helpful! Also, the yellow card reinforcement made such a big difference. The slipcase quality was much higher than a standard mass produced version. Thank you so much! 🙏
Fabulous. So clear and well lit. Thank you!
I made a slipcase for a special edition book I bought last year, following this tutorial, and it has turned out great! I was convinced I would get the measurements wrong somewhere along the way, but seeing the book fit snugly inside the box was very satisfying to see! Now I just need to find the right material to cover it.
Good luck with the covering! DAS
This is a great video, as ever. Very clearly explained and illustrated. Thank you
That’s a really nice slipcase. I’m going back to redo mine! 😆
I love your videos! You are a wonderful teacher and a true craftsman! Thank you so much.
Adding the card to the board is a great idea. It's functionaly similar to a rebate in wood joinery, creating a complex shape to the join, and increasing the gluing surface area.
“Rules are there to make you think before you break them”
Sir Terry Pratchett
Super helpful! Thank you for these tutorials.
I'm happy to say I just made one of your slipcases worked out well little roomy at the head but otherwise it's perfect. Tanks for the information on how to do it.
Very helpful demo, thank you!
Amazing demo, thank you so much for your time!
Good very good 🙏💪❤
Can you use thos style for a box box as in multiple books?
Muy buen trabajo. Felicidades y gracias por compartir .!!!
Thank you so much for this nice tutorial! I am making a slipcase along with you. Only I do not want the rounded head and tail pieces. Do you already cut them to size (and calculate the length?), if you want them to be straight, or do you cut them off later? And how would you do that? Trying to get the right order of things. Thanks a lot!
Lovely tutorial. What is that handy cutting board thingy that emerges at 2:55? Never seen one before. Thanks again!
I call it a cutting board bench hook. I have a video on making one if you want to make your own.
Is there a guide on making that squaring up board you are using? Or is that something you can just buy somewhere?
Look for my video on making a bench hook. Happy binding.
Will do, thanks! I recently bought a few slipcases that I really liked for some collector books I got, and it's gotten me interested in casing up a bunch of other books as well. Your video, I think, is going to be really helpful!@@DASBookbinding
Hello,
I am so happy to found your Videos. I am a collector and want to safe my books by using a slipcase. It is sometimes just a little hard for me as a german to understand, which materials you use. You will get many questions about this next time because as an old joiner a writer and collector i just fall in love with bookbinding.
First question for now is the glue you called "Mix". After look at your videos i think it's a mix from PVA and your selfemade glue, right?
Best wishes from Germany
Hi Torsten. Yes, every country has different methods and materials. Often small but interesting variations. Bookbinders generally use 2 types of adhesive that have very different properties. Starch paste has a lot of moisture, it penetrates materials, and it takes awhile to key to a surface, and materials attached using it can be moved around. PVA puts less moisture into materials, is very strong, is a surface adhesive, and tacks very fast (short open time is another way it is described). Once things are put together with they are stuck and can't be moved around and pulled apart (easily or without some damage). Mix is usually a 50:50 combination of paste and PVA. Mix has the benefits of both worlds. It has a longer open time but is strong and imparts less moisture than straight paste. I mostly use mix for glueing 2 sheets of paper together as in a made endpaper. But as you've noticed I'll also use it where I want to use PVA but need a safety net of maybe having to position something or need to temporarily remove something. Some people substitute methyl cellulose (MC) for paste and EVA for PVA (EVA is sometimes described as reversible - but this depends). For more advanced restoration and conservation protein adhesives like hide glue and gelatine are sometimes used. Good luck and have fun!
@@DASBookbinding thank you so much for this quick answer. Looking forward for your next videos. Maybe a traycase could be an Idea.
🙏
Enclosures coming up in about March. Will start with a portfolio.
@@DASBookbinding perfekt! Looking forward for that
Hi 👋
Not sure what ledger paper is, what else can I use please? And if the slipcase is going to be covered with book cloth would you still use Manila card ? Thank you 😊
Any coloured paper - or white - paper is fine. And any card stock, doesn't have to be manila. I just say it out of habit.
@@DASBookbinding Thanks a lot !
@@ncapitan1 Thanks for asking my question for me! I repair donated books for a bookshop cooperative near Bristol in UK, and really enjoy Darryn's videos. He explains everything very clearly, without waffling.
👍👍👍
Thank you for share this. I learnt a lot with these indications.
I wonder if grain direction (in ledger paper, board and Manilla card) is so relevant here as it is in bookbinding (I am making A6 sized books and scraps could serve for this purpose).
Since the box is constrained on 3 sides you would think not. But I think a box that gaped (the opening warps) open would not be very nice. So the side boards and lining paper on these I think is important. Maybe less important on the sides. All the best, Darryn
awesome, what is the name of that thick paper used? and where doi get it
Maybe you mean the 10pt card. I buy in bulk from a wholesaler. Just look for 10pt Bristol board. DAS
Which way should the grain of the board go? Ty
Head to tail for the big boards, to stop the opening bowing out. Thin boards are less important, but I think long grain is best. In the short direction expansion will be tiny and it will just make the case slightly wider - a tiny fraction of a mm. But once it's covered it will be very stable anyway. DAS
I was looking for a video about how to repair a slipcase. I have an expensive folio set and the slipcase has a split edge. It's covered in red cloth. Any suggestions.
I assume you just want it repaired rather than to become an expert in repairing cloth covered books. In which case I'd suggest paying someone to do it for you. I know it sounds like an easy repair, and should be for someone with the knowledge, skills and materials on hand, but for someone else it would be easy to make it look worse. For any job I do, unless it's something I've done a heap of times I'll do some practice on a mock-up of the job. So, if you decide to try this yourself, you should do some practices first too. Just buy a cheap modern hardcover novel with similar covering fabric from a church book sale. If there is no material missing it then depends on the nature of the split and board underneath. Assuming it's a neat split and the board isn't crushed and using a micro spatula I can get some adhesive under it (really small amounts - just enough to do the job) I would try and get EVA under it and then hold it closed while the adhesive sets up. A very gentle bone over the join and it should be hard to see. If the board is crushed and damaged then I would try and introduce a bit of moisture to make it swell. Maybe using a hypodermic I put some water in the board and leave it over night - a really small amount. Assuming it swells and and back to roughly original shape I might do first option. But if there might be a gap in the cloth I might mix heavy body acrylic paint with some methyl cellulose as an adhesive. I'd match the colour of the cloth. If there is cloth missing I'd infill with some medium to light weight Japanese washi coloured with acrylic to match the cloth. I know it sounds simple, and is and I'm sure you could do it, but it is a lot of mucking about if you don't have a bench already set up with all these tools and materials within arms reach. Good luck! DAS
Hi, just wondering where you source materials in aus? I’m in Melbourne, and can only find a minimal selection of bookcloth/ thread ect at a few art shops.
If you want a range of linen thread I recommend importing from Hewits. You could get a spool of each size in a small parcel box from the UK and it will be much cheaper than buying from an Australian store. I always try and max out what I can get in a small parcel. Hewits are super helpful and you can write sales directly about getting quotes on postage.
Book cloth is difficult. QBG has a good stock of cloth and sells to members at a very good price. This is only useful for Brisbane, but I mention it because there is a Victorian Bookbinders' Guild and they may sell materials too.
There is Cali Andersen in Sydney, but then you have postage, but she may be your best shot.
bookbindingaustralia.com.au/product-category/binding-materials/
I'm also friends with a local professional bookbinder who will sell me small quantities of bookcloth. Maybe there is a bookbinder in Melbourne that would do the same for you.
Good luck! DAS
DAS Bookbinding thanks so much! I’ll check these out 😊
Great video. I’m actually going to make a few of these. Is it “traditional” to make the case shallower than the book with the rounded tails rather than making the case as deep as the entire book?
Both ways are common. The rounded opening is a pain in the neck:) DAS
Perfect
Hi! I'd just want to know what kind of board you were using. Thanks. Very helpful video
Common grey board, similar to Davey binders board.
www.talasonline.com/Davey-Binders-Board
Ciao, DAS
What glue do you use
I think I use PVA and PVA mix (50/50 mix of PVA and methyl cellulose) for this project. The brand of PVA I use is Evasol, which I think is only available in Australia. DAS
@@DASBookbinding thank you and I'll keep an eye out for it as I'm an aussie girl
What bookbinding book is that in the beginning of the video? It looks like it has a lot of really cool designs in there.
NEVERMIND, I JUST READ THE DESCRIPTION. IGNORE ME.
I was wondering, where do you get your manila card? I love this slipcase!
Just look for 10pt Bristol board or any 10pt card stock. I buy in bulk from a wholesaler. DAS
Have you ever made a Slip Case that was leather covered and had a cloth or felt interior?
Not full leather, just leather trim on the opening. If I want fancy I go to a clamshell enclosure. DAS