I have two DIY solar power generators I built with Calb cells using 175A Anderson connectors. Obviously when connecting the plug to the battery the positive and negative make contact approximately at the same time and the plastic housing of the quick connect plug prevents me from seeing any spark. But in theory could this type of connection destroy my solar generator setup or my pure sine wave inverter since there is no way for me to employ a precharge resistor?
As a engineer that designed solar products 16 mosfet is only good for 2000watts max over that the mosfet with blow ,if there 24 mosfet on the low side then 3kw will be available but on a hold the inverter lacks alot of production no soft connection for battery
Yes it will work fine to pre-charge a 12v inverter, a 12v incandescent bulb will or any higher voltage incandescent bulb will work like a 120/240v AC or DC bulb, most light bulbs like CFL Halogen MH or incandescent are in fact load resistors, but do not use an LED light to pre-charge an inverter.
You should wire the batteries in parallel, not just have the leads going from the inverter to both batteries individually. That will help keep your battery bank equalized.
In theory 250 amps, but maybe add a little more for any in-efficiency of the inverter. Down side to working with 12v is how many amps is drawn. going with a 24v setup would cut that in half.
Not used daily, but still holding up. Had to use a heat-gun in a field recently. Jumper-cables from this unit to the truck and we were rolling. Perfect alternative to carrying a small generator.
Hi, I have an reliable 24v 120v inverter of 6000 peak watts and 3000 continuous watts, it works very well but when I turn on the washing machine everything goes well until it has to squeeze when it has to squeeze the inverter which is 24v because my system is in series when it is going to squeeze it drops from 120v to 42 and it stops working I have tried it using only the washing machine without any other equipment in my system I have 4 250ah batteries in series that is, I have 500ah of ery to work although in measurement the washing machine asks me for 25 peak amps to squeeze well I have tried it with the electricity of the house, it asks for 25 amps peak and then it regulates to 7 amps from your experience, what problem can I have? The washing machine is old, analogous with the digital washing machine, I don't have that problem, I blurt out, read this and guide me
These units are over stated in my opinion. A load like that may just be too much of a surge for it to keep on. 25 amps should be good for peak but could possible have a higher spike than that. Check your wire size going to it maybe? Also check voltage at the unit for your DC side.
Hi,nice review on reliable but all of them are lighter undersized, maximum can pull 2000watts continuous,they downgrade the quality of the components lighter than the models using TO-220 MOSFETs instead older models used TO247 MOSFETs in the input stages,so news models usually comes with 4mosfet per transformer and the older was 2 TO247 MOSFETs strong quality,also the capacitors on DC inputs are 3300uF but still cheapest capacitors quality,but replacing all of them with high quality capacitors like nichicon,Elna,Epcos or jamicon , increase up to 4700uF each.Will increase the lifespam and run without problems for many years
Thanks for sharing. Agreed these style usually will not get you the continuous they state. To their credit, they do list on their pages to add capacity size over what you actually need. Even double. Probable because their units are "overstated". But again, cheap is the game on these. And if you need something to run your fridge when power is out, this will get it done.
High frequency, transformerless inverters like this are the most unreliable products on the market. They don't use a copper wound, iron core copper wound, isolation transformer, they offer a shorter life expectancy, and a wimpy surge capacity and they can be dangerous during a catastrophic failure of the H-Bridge circuit. All it would take is for the AC output monitoring circuitry to fail and one of the MOSFETs in the inverter's H-Bridge circuit to short to ground, and this cheap high frequency inverters can send dangerous, high voltage, high amperage DC current straight to your AC appliances which can not only damage your appliances. but can also set your appliances on fire. If you want a pretty good, long lasting, high peak power inverter, then you need to invest in a low frequency, transformer based inverter.
These units and others like them are going after a different market than your talking about. The point is a cheap backup inverter. For most people, having one of these to play with, or maybe hook up to their truck is more than enough. If your hoping to do a permanent install, sure you want something better. All these devices have their place. You don't drive a kia because you want a race car, you drive one because its cheap and gets the job done. Same with these. Thanks for your input.
I have two DIY solar power generators I built with Calb cells using 175A Anderson connectors. Obviously when connecting the plug to the battery the positive and negative make contact approximately at the same time and the plastic housing of the quick connect plug prevents me from seeing any spark. But in theory could this type of connection destroy my solar generator setup or my pure sine wave inverter since there is no way for me to employ a precharge resistor?
As a engineer that designed solar products 16 mosfet is only good for 2000watts max over that the mosfet with blow ,if there 24 mosfet on the low side then 3kw will be available but on a hold the inverter lacks alot of production no soft connection for battery
Great video. I enjoyed it very much.
Can you use a 12 volts incandescent light bulb for charging the capacitors?
Yes it will work fine to pre-charge a 12v inverter, a 12v incandescent bulb will or any higher voltage incandescent bulb will work like a 120/240v AC or DC bulb, most light bulbs like CFL Halogen MH or incandescent are in fact load resistors, but do not use an LED light to pre-charge an inverter.
Thank you for the information!
You should wire the batteries in parallel, not just have the leads going from the inverter to both batteries individually. That will help keep your battery bank equalized.
I have seen other videos to recommend a 10 Watt resistance to charge the inverter capacitor but not the Ohmic Value.
inside looks just like the old Reliablepower 3000W 12V model that I have.
there are 3 models of all Reliable inverters.
Hi will this system power an electrical compressor, Powered by a Hyundai 2.2kW 3hp 230v motor.
No...
Do you know how many amps the inverter draw from the battery at 3k load?
In theory 250 amps, but maybe add a little more for any in-efficiency of the inverter. Down side to working with 12v is how many amps is drawn. going with a 24v setup would cut that in half.
@@yoman21w
Is that 250amps. At 12volt.
@@boscodog4358 3000 watts divided by 12 v =250 amps.
@@pjfsr7024
Thank you. I am at 24v and that is what I thought. ohms law.
But lots of people told me other answer.
Thank you for your time and reply.
Howis the Reliable inverter doing?
Not used daily, but still holding up. Had to use a heat-gun in a field recently. Jumper-cables from this unit to the truck and we were rolling. Perfect alternative to carrying a small generator.
Where can we buy that kind of inverter and how much
Amazon, $300 ish. depends on timing and sale. sometimes more, sometimes less.
Thanks for the video, do you still recommend this inverter?
Still woking for me. Not used daily but its great to have around on the shelf. Still used "now and again"
Hi, I have an reliable 24v 120v inverter of 6000 peak watts and 3000 continuous watts, it works very well but when I turn on the washing machine everything goes well until it has to squeeze when it has to squeeze the inverter which is 24v because my system is in series when it is going to squeeze it drops from 120v to 42 and it stops working I have tried it using only the washing machine without any other equipment in my system I have 4 250ah batteries in series that is, I have 500ah of ery to work although in measurement the washing machine asks me for 25 peak amps to squeeze well I have tried it with the electricity of the house, it asks for 25 amps peak and then it regulates to 7 amps from your experience, what problem can I have? The washing machine is old, analogous with the digital washing machine, I don't have that problem, I blurt out, read this and guide me
These units are over stated in my opinion. A load like that may just be too much of a surge for it to keep on. 25 amps should be good for peak but could possible have a higher spike than that. Check your wire size going to it maybe? Also check voltage at the unit for your DC side.
oawg would be better to carry higher current plus adding super capacitors would help no end, on start up.,.
Absolutely, thanks for sharing.
Hi,nice review on reliable but all of them are lighter undersized, maximum can pull 2000watts continuous,they downgrade the quality of the components lighter than the models using TO-220 MOSFETs instead older models used TO247 MOSFETs in the input stages,so news models usually comes with 4mosfet per transformer and the older was 2 TO247 MOSFETs strong quality,also the capacitors on DC inputs are 3300uF but still cheapest capacitors quality,but replacing all of them with high quality capacitors like nichicon,Elna,Epcos or jamicon , increase up to 4700uF each.Will increase the lifespam and run without problems for many years
What do you recommend for a 'cheap' and 'reliable' 2-3k inverter?
Thanks for sharing. Agreed these style usually will not get you the continuous they state. To their credit, they do list on their pages to add capacity size over what you actually need. Even double. Probable because their units are "overstated". But again, cheap is the game on these. And if you need something to run your fridge when power is out, this will get it done.
Rolfson Grove
Christophe Springs
Christelle Common
Chassis wiring isn't rated the same as supply wiring.
Probably true, gets the job done, just think that would be a nice touch to have a size up on everything.
Frami Hills
High frequency, transformerless inverters like this are the most unreliable products on the market. They don't use a copper wound, iron core copper wound, isolation transformer, they offer a shorter life expectancy, and a wimpy surge capacity and they can be dangerous during a catastrophic failure of the H-Bridge circuit. All it would take is for the AC output monitoring circuitry to fail and one of the MOSFETs in the inverter's H-Bridge circuit to short to ground, and this cheap high frequency inverters can send dangerous, high voltage, high amperage DC current straight to your AC appliances which can not only damage your appliances. but can also set your appliances on fire. If you want a pretty good, long lasting, high peak power inverter, then you need to invest in a low frequency, transformer based inverter.
These units and others like them are going after a different market than your talking about. The point is a cheap backup inverter. For most people, having one of these to play with, or maybe hook up to their truck is more than enough. If your hoping to do a permanent install, sure you want something better. All these devices have their place. You don't drive a kia because you want a race car, you drive one because its cheap and gets the job done. Same with these. Thanks for your input.
Baby Island
i would take you seriously if your sunglasses and shirt are a friken joke