It's all very well starting from the garage side to stop dust in the house, but if you don't finish it from the house side, there's a good chance of knocking off the plaster, even though not on hammer.
Over here in the US our employers supply the tools to do the job. Because they're obsessed with getting the job done fast, they give us the same type of diamond coring bit but it's powered straight off of a full size angle grinder with no pilot bit attachment and no safety clutch, needless to say that starting a 5 inch hole takes practice. I like your method much better, it looks a whole lot safer, more accurate, and I believe the coring bit last much longer if ran at a lower speed. Good vid!
Great vid thanks. Came in to see how it should be done after nearly breaking my wrist when the drill I was using to cut a core jammed. I can personally vouch for the part where you say a clutch in the drill is important.
All great advice. Drilling all the way through the wall is only needed if you need to locate the centre of cut on the other side. Also when starting it is good to get through any plaster layer and into about half an inch of brick before removing the pilot bit, the diamond cutter can wander and create a lot of break out if not into the brick. A good clutch is essential as it stops the drill whipping around if the cutter gets jammed mid cut.
Excellent demo 👍 I would however suggest that it would be better to orientate the drill handle so that you're holding it above the drill body. That way if the drill binds and it starts to turn anticlockwise (even if you have a clutch it's not instantaneous and they do fail) you have a hand there to brace it, hopefully saving your trigger hand. (If the drill binds with your hand in the location shown in the video it will just pull it out of your grip and you'll lose control of it). It's a useful habit to get into when drilling.
I'd add earplugs to protect your hearing (we want to hear our grandkids when we're old, right?) and spraying water to keep down the cancerous silica dust and keeping the bit cooler for greater bit lifespan. Or at least a dust mask rated for silica dust, worn correctly.
This video was really helpful and gave me the confidence to drill through a double layered wall and then fit a vent pipe. It saved me £170 on a quote I had from a builder. As stated on the video use a clutched drill, the clutch came into action on mine as the bit stuck in the wall. I think it would have been "nasty" had I just used my ordinary B & D.
Every time i watch this video the huffing trying to get the crap out of the core bill always makes me smile. Nothing worse can getting something stuck in there and not wanting to smash or tap the bit to get it out.
Well deserved too. Informative and well made, if I hadn't watched this I may have cocked up my new core bits. I didn't before this not to have the hammer function off so thanks.
thanks for this video, lots of us handymen learning from one another really helps a lot. for the long years ive been working, i still miss a lot , and your videos patch that missing info. regards
Brilliant - thanks. The local boys working for me here will be amazed. Still cutting massive holes in block work with a chisel and hammer to put a pipe through the wall!!
I’m moving my toilet just now and need to relocate the soil pipe which I need to drill through my external wall, the drill I’m hiring for the day is 127mm do you think that will be an ok size? Great video, gave me great advice and always helps seeing it actually done when your a novice, explained it really well.
Great video, everything was well explained. If drilling through a very thick wall (12"), is there a way to break the core mid-way through the the hole and remove it so there is room to continue drilling?
You could try breaking it out using a club hammer and chisel, or if you can do drill a pilot hole straight through the wall using a thin drill bit then drill the core from each side of the wall.
Great Video. I need to drill a venting hole in my house for the kitchen extractor. The old ducting is just shitty PVC flexible ducting (with some holes in it). Impossible to change to something better unless plasterboard is pulled down. So I have to go the other way and drill a hole in the wall. I have a Bosch GBH2000 drill that is 620W and has a safety clutch. Would that be enough to go through the wall? Or I need a more powerful drill 1500W? The wall is a cavity wall concrete blocks and brick on the outer layer. The house has a 86mm internal insulation as well. Thx
great video but still can't find out what size diamond core drill bit I need for a 40mm hole for waste pipe, is there a chart anywhwere that I can look up. Thanks for all your videos, I'm a late comer to your channel so don't expect many answers so I'll keep looking, I asked a couple of plumbers but they didn't seem to want to give out any info.
I think it depends whether the pipe is solvent weld or push fit. Solvent weld is normally 43mm or 1.5 inches outside diameter Push fit is normally 41mm outside diameter I have had a quick look, but the closest size diamond core bit seems to be 52mm
Thanks, the blocks in this video are concrete but many new homes use aerated concrete which are much lighter and easier to drill etc. Thanks for the comment ;-)
Hi thanks for the video. Will these cutters go through solid 1930's brick?I'm wanting to use one to cut the hole before fitting an extractor fan in my bathroom.
***** sorry but you have it wrong, what you have is a dry brick cutter.it may be diamond tipped but it is not a true diamond core drill.your right though about the clutch. got caught in the yahoos myself,
This is the drift- www.powertoolworld.co.uk/duro-dp-dk-dry-diamond-core-bit-drift-key You knock that through the hole and it ejects the tapered drill bit, which stops it from jamming up the core drill. Thanks for the comment
When using an SDS bit with the hammer action turned off, is the bit only held loosely like when using hammer action? I'm wondering why use an SDS drill for core drilling since you have to turn off the only useful thing SDS does?
+FlyBoyGrounded A dedicated core drill is very expensive. Some SDS drills have a safety clutch like this one- which makes them perfect for drilling the occasional core without having to buy a dedicated core drill.
Thanks a lot mate, We drill a lot of holes for flues and some walls are an absolute nightmare to core! Big chunky sds drills are the worst idea ever when used for coring! Since I used a dedicated core drill once a while back, I absolutely want one, Smoothest core ever, That wall happened to be an easy wall to core anyway but still was very relaxing to do it haha
I thought you had to pump water through the drill to keep dust down and not to keep the teeth cool. It’s all well n good on 4 inch block work but what’s it like on 18inch concrete ?
It depends which core drills you are using. Some are designed to be used wet. For 18" thick concrete, I would hire a professional core drilling rig, which will probably require water cooling.
quick question I've to make another hole using the proper drill which I borrowed my worry is the outside of the house was freshly plastered just sand and cement render would the hole outside be perfectly round or would it need to be patched up a reply would be great thanks.
+SuperGawin If you are using a core drill like in this video the hole should be perfect, however you are better off drilling a pilot hole straight through the wall, then use the core drill from the inside and the outside to guarantee a clean hole.
yup I just did a core above ceiling grid, 2-1/2" hole...thru brick. Took me about 10 secs of drillin and I bolt to the truck, got my gloves, my mask, my safety glasses and ear plugs. My mask was completely red when I got thru....I was surprised that the vibration went down a little when i put on my gloves. And the ringing in my ears not as bad as when I didn't have plugs on. Learn my lesson that day.
I would recommend keeping the drill bit in place when using the core drill, otherwise the core drill wanders and can result in the hole being way out of line (especially on thick walls).
Very helpful video but I have a question though. I have a set of diamond core drills which came with a SDS plus and hex adaptor and 2 cores with a diameters of 117mm and 127mm (amongst other cores with smaller diameters). Guidelines of the manufacturer are not to use diamond cores larger than 72mm in diameter with SDS plus drills as this may result in damage to the tool or the adaptor (because of over the overload on the shank). Hence why they provide the hex adaptor with it so that larger diameter cores can be used on drills with standard keyed or keyless locking chuck that can accept large diameter cores. But that makes those cores kinda useless for me using a SDS plus machine. Since I see you use a core of about 117 mm on an SDS plus, what's your experience on that statement? I'd just need it to drill the occasional hole.
I have bought a couple of sets of Diamond core drills now and neither of them had any instructions whatsoever. I have used large diameter ones in my SDS machine with no problems yet, but they are better in a dedicated core drilling machine with an hex chuck. For occasional use as long as you take it easy I do not think you'll have a problem as long as the machine has a safety clutch
Good evening, Titan TTB279SDS has a mechanical safety clutch and I was wondering whether it's good enough. It's a rather cheap hammer drill, but its reviews are really good. Four and a half gold stars out of five. Will it do? Thank you :)
Envelope trick is brilliant. Also, I've seen Shop-Vac secured near to suck up concrete dust, as well as another person "wetting" the area with a fine spray mist.
Can I put grease around the hole saw? It's not turning anymore,stays stuck... I'm making a 4" hole in concrete foundation and it's 6 3/4 in thru the 8" thickness. It's not turning to finish the last inch...
I would not use grease, the fumes might be toxic, if it gets warm. I suppose you could try some water, as long as the water does not get near the electrics on the drill Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman I believe it makes a difference with the openings on the side of the hole saw... The one I'm using doesn't have it, I see yours does...
If ever needed to enlarge a core drilled hole drive some wood into the existing hole and wood drill a hole in the middle. The pilot will follow it easy for the larger hole without fingers going missing.
Hello, Great video give me confidence to do a job I've been reluctant to start.I bought 127 mm diamond core drill today for drilling a hole for soil pipe in wall, I got 2 questions,is it better to have this size 127mm rather than an exact fit of 110mm(soil pipe is 110 mm)and my main question my drill is useless so im looking for a capable drill are their any particular specs (ie volts,watt or simply a name)i should look for when buying as my eye is on about 5 drills Im not loaded so im looking for a good but powerful drill able for this job any tips i would be very grateful cheers
Sorry what is the name of the bit that connects to the core bit? your accent is a bit strong.. sounds like 'oirer' when you are saying it. Im not having a dig, just need to know please as I'm ordering all the bits this evening that I need. Very helpful video. Thanks.
@@ultimatehandyman thank you. I understood every word just fine except for that one haha, the one word I needed lol. Thank you again aha keep up the good work
For the pilot hole, does the bit for that pilot hole needs to be diamond tip or carbide tip? Can I just use the pilot bit that comes with the core bit?
If you don’t have a suitable masonry bit, just use the core drill with the pilot bit installed, then remove the pilot drill to prevent it from jamming, once you have the hole started 👍
Was really hoping to see the coring of the 2nd side of the cinder blocks. what exactly happens when it binds and you don't have a clutch? Dislocated shoulder?
It depends how fast you let go of the switch. I used to have a 1050W drill with no clutch and that used to snag all the time, but it depends how strong you are. If you are not that strong the best option is just to let go of the thing rather than risking injury. Thanks for the comment
I always go through the inside plaster just a few cm to stop it cracking. Can almost guarantee if you go straight through from one side the hole will not be a clean neat cut. A helper with a Hoover works well inside too to keep dust to a minimum
Great detailed video yet again! Anyway of determining of a drill has the required clutch? I have a 1400W SDS drill from good old Lidl which I hope is OK. Any reason too for putting the vent hole high up? I thought lower is better to allow moisture to flow down? On a different topic, I have some led security lights to attach to a garage. Is mortar ok to affix to brick (red)? Mortar can be repaired later on if the lights are removed whereas brick never looks the same? Cheers
Just to be clear - do you use hammer drill mode to drill with a diamond core drill? I have always used normal drilling mode (and not hammer) when using the above.
Hi, I need to make a circular recess in a brick wall about 100mm deep. Basically similar to the one in the video but not reaching to the opposite side of the brick. Could you please recommend a method? Thank you.
Hi, Most bricks in the UK are only 100mm thick so you'd go all the way through? Armeg make a circular cutter that is designed to be used with their box sinker kit, but I am not sure of the diameter of the cutter.
Is this core thingy what I’d use to cut a chunk out of the balcony above to replace an oyster light with a down light? I think it’s called potting a hole maybe?
I need to cut a hole of 152mm (6inch) for a heat recovery extractor (Kair), but can only find 150mm bits where I am. Could I maybe just sand down the remaining couple of mm? Also, do you have any tips on getting the right angle? (apparently the hole I need to make should be sloping downwards to a maximum 1.5 degrees, which sounds very precise...)
That's a bit difficult. Sanding the hole larger would be very difficult and time consuming. You might be better off hiring s dedicated machine- you might be able to get one that allows drilling on a set angle?
Thanks for the reply. I assumed 2mm was so little it might not make much of a difference. I'll keep looking I suppose - I'm in the Netherlands where 152mm seems a bit of an odd size.
Hi. I know this is a 12 year old video but hopefully you’re still out there. I need to core drill a hole for a 110mm diameter soil pipe. I’m not in the trades just a diy,er. I managed to borrow a core drill bit from a friend of a friend who is a plumber. He lent me a 107mm core drill bit for the job. Seems like a silly question but is this the correct size? I did pass the message on to the plumber that it is for a 110mm soil pipe so I’m assuming this is the correct size core drill.
I would not use that to be honest, I’d go for at least a 117mm core drill. 107mm might work in some substrates, as the core drill bits often give you a slightly larger hole, but if you can’t get the soil pipe through, it’s going to take a lot of additional time and effort. Even 117mm might be a bit tight, so 127 might be preferred.
It would be really difficult doing it using a hand held drill, unless you could make a jig (perhaps using a piece of pipe large enough for the core drill bit to fit in, the pipe would need cutting at 45 degrees and pieces would need welding to it, so that you could bolt it to the wall) It would be much easier hiring out a professional core drilling rig, I think Hilti make them, which can core at 45 degrees.
thanks for this I did this today following your guide. my problem now is i can't get either the drill bit off off the extension bar not the sds off the extension bar. They screw in. I've lubricated and everything, put it in reverse but I can't get it out. Any ideas?
Have you tried removing the front cover from the SDS drill chuck? Sometimes if you remove the cover you can un-jam the drill bit. Separating the extension bar can require a large adjustable spanner (assuming there are flats on the bar to grip), then another spanner to grip the flats on the end of the core itself.
+Ultimate Handyman thanks I'll try the spanner. Extension bar and the arbor is screwed tight and the drill bit also screwed on tight. I can't see a from cover to remove. Are they meant to be this tight to both unscrew?
Just measure the outside diameter of the duct and then get a core which is larger than the diameter. Never undersize a core drill, or it will make the job ten times harder, always better to go larger and fill the gap with silicone if necessary 👍
Not sure why you picked the edges of the two cinder block with mortar in the middle ? It's the hardest to cut that way. Why not choose the hollow part of the cinder block ?
I’m in the UK too, where do you buy this stuff? I need to punch a hole for the drier exhaust, multiple layer wall (including insulation and air space) that I would have to seal before I insert the tube, any tips on how to seal the layers? Thank you!
You can get the core drills on eBay- fave.co/2ATarxL Normally I just insert the tube, then seal around the tube using a good quality silicone sealant. Thanks for the comment
i got to drill through 2 steel reinforced concrete beams above an old doorway and it tool over 2 hours of drilling to get through the outer one and now i got to do the inner one..... the corners are beginning to wear ont slightly on the core bit now :( any advise or just keep going? the steel bars are about the size of your index finger and i have managed to get through 2 of them in the first beam.
Hilti have an instructional video which shows the pilot drill being removed fairly soon. Good enough for me! th-cam.com/video/MxcWv7BZRgk/w-d-xo.html - for the Hilti video. Also, Bosch have a good safety video about kickback which is well worth watching.
No, I would not use one of these for ceramic. You could use one of these- th-cam.com/video/ApjI4hMzoZg/w-d-xo.html But you would need to make a jig to prevent the hole saw from moving.
Yes, it will still work but it could be tough going depending on the type of stone. It should be fine in sandstone, but for granite you might need a professional rig with water cooling. To use a core drill like this one you need to cut out a core until the core drill cannot cut anymore and then break out the circular section left behind when you pull the core drill out of the hole and keep repeating until you are all the way through. You can buy extension bars for the core's, which you might need to get through such a thick wall.
how do you stop the arbour bit and the core from locking together ? as i was drilling a 4 inch hole for an extractor fan and i couldn't undo the two bits?
Allen Goldsmith They are not easy to undo. There are normally two flats machined onto the arbor and the core drill itself which you can grip using two spanners/wrenches.
+Mark Slevin The envelope trick was passed down from my brother in law's mother years ago. I think she saw it on a TV program, or perhaps saw it in a DIY book.Thanks for the comment ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman The envelope trick has been around since The 1930s Mi great granddad told me that I used to use a flute of paper Down to the floor ,The Hoover attachment works best as it sucks onto the wall There's all on Amazon cheap ones from China and expensive ones from Bosch
Solid walls are easy! Brick cavity construction is more difficult as when the core-drill crosses the cavity it may try to jam. Make sure that the fuse in the mains plug is only two or three amp. If perchance a 13 amp fuse is left in the plug, one may have a problem (stripped gears, broken wrist or arm, being tipped off the ladder etc) In actual fact SDS arbors which are really just DIY devices will probably shear off first. A quite difficult job is drilling vertical holes in Devon-Banks and Cornish Hedges. (Allegedly there are slight variations in construction) Both tend to be made from quarry waste bound together with clay. It is difficult to get plants to grow in such poor soil so holes need to be drilled and usually earth-augers won't work. Something that can tackle clay, stone and tree roots is needed. Continuous wet-diamond might be the best but such drills are hard to find.
Core drills do not normally make a lot of noise. On site now they have reduced the amount of hearing protection that we have to wear, apparently the HSE have deemed that people cannot hear danger if the DB level is reduced too much. Thanks for the comment
Gandalf4137 It should be fine, although there does not seem to be a safety clutch on that machine which you should really have when core drilling. If you are going to be doing a lot of core drilling a dedicated machine with a safety clutch is recommended, but for the occasional core drill your machine should be fine.
***** Yes, you are right. It only has an overload clutch which helps to a certain extent, but having a safety clutch is better. I work as an electrician and I might need something better. I have been thinking of buying a Sparky BUR 355 ce because it is pretty affordable, but people say that most Sparky drills are good for nothing. What would you recommend? Thank you
Gandalf4137 You are welcome ;-) Unfortunately dedicated core drill machines are not cheap. I just checked screwfix and they have two Sparky models on special offer at £169.99 but for £30 more you could get the Dewalt silver bullet. They seem to have pretty good reviews on Screwfix. Some people don't rate Dewalt tools, but I have lots of Dewalt tools and they have all been fine! I'd definitely not risk a Sparky model just to save a few quid. I can only find the BUR2 355CE models on Screwfix and they are only 700W compared to the Dewalt at 1300W.
***** I currently live in Bulgaria and think there are 2-3 Sparky factories and buying a Sparky drill is not that expensive. The make appears to be German, though. Anyway, the one I found is 1260 W and I think that's pretty good. Dewalt is a top make. I could buy the silver bullet off ebay if necessary. Have you ever used Sparky drills? Are they any good? I usually use Milwaukee, Bosch, Hitachi and Makita.
Gandalf4137 Sorry, I have not used Sparky drills and do not know anyone that has. All my tools are Dewalt/Bosch/Milwaukee and a little Makita. Sparky are sold by Screwfix in the UK, they have reviews on their site and the Sparky stuff does not get good reviews- www.screwfix.com/c/tools/corded-diamond-core-drills/cat830820
@Dean Mckeown The one in the video I think was Silverline. I have since purchased a Makita set which was only a few quid more expensive than the Silverline.
@ brianboru62 If it's just the one hole you are doing your best option might be to hire a dedicated core cutting machine for the day? I'd always go for a slightly larger core drill- the last thing you want is a hole that is slightly too small. If you are buying a machine get the most powerful you can afford but make sure it has the safety clutch ;-)
thanks bought this has clutch www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261643684338 seems good enough. Its doin me head in having an internal soil pipe its causing heaps of probs coz the internal pipe just gets in the way of fitting my bathroom suite in the desired manner.Hence watching your vid on using a core drill bit.hopefully from :( to :)
trainmanmusic HAHA stay away from hire stores unless you your a busy tradesman and you NEED something desperately.Otherwise ebay was great for me saved a fortune and that drill i bought is a beast it whizzes through concrete posts ( to fasten and screw gate post too).Hire stores scandalous prices,I was lucky and bought a 110mm diamond core hole saw 28 quid,a hire store i enquired would have charged me 58 quid for one days use of very same core drill.
+brianboru62 Hire shops are best avoided. F'rintance years ago I got roped-into helping a mate take down a load of trees at a GFs house. A petrol driven shredder had been hired but I took one look at it and knew that it wouldn't work. The machine employed a drum with swinging flails but the flails were worn and rounded like the helmet on ones privates! Yup the machine didn't work and it even struggled with a small bit of brush wood. It was taken back straightaway and to the hirer's surprise the proprietor of the shop hadn't even put the thirty quid in the till. Presumably he KNEW that the shredder wouldn't work! With no shredder the bonfire method had to be used. Unfortunately a very tough looking and irate bloke soon arrived ranting on about soot and smoke on his wife's washing. It was looking like a fist fight but there were several of us so the bloke backed-down. Phew! hire shops can cause a LOT of trouble so take care! With hindsight it might have been better to reverse or sharpen the flails but when one pays £30 for a days hire its a bit much to be expected to service the machine as well!
+Tech Davey Bloody hell aye,hire anything for 2 weeks and you coujd have ended up buying the friggin thing. Hence why i bought a diamond hole cutter for what..£20 notes.saved meself 40 quid im sure for a weeks hire that came with a hammer drill.Stuff that got me drill of ebay bloody great take a brick out in 20 seconds.i got the diamond cutter from a weird shop that sells oddball tools giant pliars or ball joint splitters(alice in wonderland for tool heads)
Good video on the correct procedure for dry diamond coring. However, SDS machines are really not that suitable for this application. They might be big and powerful, but they do not rev fast enough for the diamond segments to work properly. A dedicated dry diamond core machine will rev between a variable 700 & 2500rpm and will have a slipping clutch.
Nice demo but your Bosch GBH4 is not a core drill, I have one and it can be okay for smallish holes in softer materials but the safety clutch just isn't adequate imo. If you were up a ladder and snagged it the drill would throw you so you wouldn't want to use it on very hard brick, large diameter cores or difficult or potentially dangerous situations. The ground floor of a garage is fine as you can just let go.
Hi there. Can a 110 hole be drilled with a normal cordless hammer drill. I realise that it would take longer and I noted your comments about having a slip clutch. I suppose I could hire a core drill. Any thoughts would be great.
Ivan Rubery It depends if it has a safety clutch or not (most don't) Unfortunately dedicated hole saw drills are very expensive but some SDS machines can do the occasional core hole as long as they have a safety clutch.
I have a Bosch - 11241EVS drill but it doesnt have only drilling option. It works either hammer or hammer drill so can I use diamond 3' with hammer and drill option together. Will it be stable at first???
It's all very well starting from the garage side to stop dust in the house, but if you don't finish it from the house side, there's a good chance of knocking off the plaster, even though not on hammer.
Over here in the US our employers supply the tools to do the job. Because they're obsessed with getting the job done fast, they give us the same type of diamond coring bit but it's powered straight off of a full size angle grinder with no pilot bit attachment and no safety clutch, needless to say that starting a 5 inch hole takes practice.
I like your method much better, it looks a whole lot safer, more accurate, and I believe the coring bit last much longer if ran at a lower speed.
Good vid!
Great vid thanks. Came in to see how it should be done after nearly breaking my wrist when the drill I was using to cut a core jammed. I can personally vouch for the part where you say a clutch in the drill is important.
All great advice. Drilling all the way through the wall is only needed if you need to locate the centre of cut on the other side. Also when starting it is good to get through any plaster layer and into about half an inch of brick before removing the pilot bit, the diamond cutter can wander and create a lot of break out if not into the brick. A good clutch is essential as it stops the drill whipping around if the cutter gets jammed mid cut.
Thanks for the comment
A very comprehensive guide with a lot of useful tips. I hope my 9" brick wall takes a hole as neatly as yours did. Many thanks for posting.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Excellent demo 👍 I would however suggest that it would be better to orientate the drill handle so that you're holding it above the drill body. That way if the drill binds and it starts to turn anticlockwise (even if you have a clutch it's not instantaneous and they do fail) you have a hand there to brace it, hopefully saving your trigger hand. (If the drill binds with your hand in the location shown in the video it will just pull it out of your grip and you'll lose control of it). It's a useful habit to get into when drilling.
👍
I'd add earplugs to protect your hearing (we want to hear our grandkids when we're old, right?) and spraying water to keep down the cancerous silica dust and keeping the bit cooler for greater bit lifespan. Or at least a dust mask rated for silica dust, worn correctly.
This video was really helpful and gave me the confidence to drill through a double layered wall and then fit a vent pipe. It saved me £170 on a quote I had from a builder.
As stated on the video use a clutched drill, the clutch came into action on mine as the bit stuck in the wall. I think it would have been "nasty" had I just used my ordinary B & D.
I'm glad the video helped.
Thanks for the comment
Using an envelop to collect the dust is very clever. Thank you for the helpful video sir.
That tip was given to me by my brother in Laws, mother 👍
Every time i watch this video the huffing trying to get the crap out of the core bill always makes me smile. Nothing worse can getting something stuck in there and not wanting to smash or tap the bit to get it out.
😂
I am not a tradesman but i enjoy watching these vidoes. Sometimes I wonder if I should try things by myself during my day off.
I'm glad you like watching the videos.
Thanks for the comment
Wow, over 1 million views for this video!
Thanks to anyone that has ever watched it ;-)
Ultimate Handyman You deserve it. Great videos.
Thank you ;-)
Ultimate Handyman ggggf🐙💩🥔🐣⚽️⚽️⚽️⚽️⚽️⚽️
Well deserved too. Informative and well made, if I hadn't watched this I may have cocked up my new core bits. I didn't before this not to have the hammer function off so thanks.
Ultimate Handyman like
The envelope trick, that was sneaky mate ! love it :)
Thanks for the comment
thanks for this video, lots of us handymen learning from one another really helps a lot. for the long years ive been working, i still miss a lot , and your videos patch that missing info. regards
Brilliant - thanks. The local boys working for me here will be amazed. Still cutting massive holes in block work with a chisel and hammer to put a pipe through the wall!!
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
I’m moving my toilet just now and need to relocate the soil pipe which I need to drill through my external wall, the drill I’m hiring for the day is 127mm do you think that will be an ok size? Great video, gave me great advice and always helps seeing it actually done when your a novice, explained it really well.
127mm core should be fine. Best of luck with it ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video, everything was well explained. If drilling through a very thick wall (12"), is there a way to break the core mid-way through the the hole and remove it so there is room to continue drilling?
You could try breaking it out using a club hammer and chisel, or if you can do drill a pilot hole straight through the wall using a thin drill bit then drill the core from each side of the wall.
+Ultimate Handyman Okay. Thank you.
Great Video. I need to drill a venting hole in my house for the kitchen extractor. The old ducting is just shitty PVC flexible ducting (with some holes in it). Impossible to change to something better unless plasterboard is pulled down.
So I have to go the other way and drill a hole in the wall.
I have a Bosch GBH2000 drill that is 620W and has a safety clutch. Would that be enough to go through the wall? Or I need a more powerful drill 1500W? The wall is a cavity wall concrete blocks and brick on the outer layer. The house has a 86mm internal insulation as well. Thx
I'm not sure to be honest, it should be powerful enough but if it is not you should soon find out.
Thanks for the comment
You made this look so much better and easier than a video by Moorcut. Thanks, super cool.
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman 5
great video but still can't find out what size diamond core drill bit I need for a 40mm hole for waste pipe, is there a chart anywhwere that I can look up. Thanks for all your videos, I'm a late comer to your channel so don't expect many answers so I'll keep looking, I asked a couple of plumbers but they didn't seem to want to give out any info.
I think it depends whether the pipe is solvent weld or push fit.
Solvent weld is normally 43mm or 1.5 inches outside diameter
Push fit is normally 41mm outside diameter
I have had a quick look, but the closest size diamond core bit seems to be 52mm
What's your opinion on wetting the cement blocks while drilling...would this method help protect the the drill bit?
These cores are designed to be used dry, but I don't think wetting them will do them any harm. It will help to keep the dust down for sure.
Impressive instruction. I must say the quality of the material/construction seen in this video appears superior to what we see here in the states.
Thanks, the blocks in this video are concrete but many new homes use aerated concrete which are much lighter and easier to drill etc.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Hi thanks for the video. Will these cutters go through solid 1930's brick?I'm wanting to use one to cut the hole before fitting an extractor fan in my bathroom.
They will go through most types of brick, but there are some that it won't work on such as calcium silicate bricks.
***** Thanks for the prompt reply. I'm going to hire all of the equipment because my SDS does not have a clutch.
***** sorry but you have it wrong, what you have is a dry brick cutter.it may be diamond tipped but it is not a true diamond core drill.your right though about the clutch. got caught in the yahoos myself,
Robert Mclay
In the UK these are sold as Diamond core drill bits ;-)
After drilling a whole in a wall like that..is the core drill still as sharp or as effective?
Great video but what did you mean by a drift when removing the drill bit to prevent the core drill from jamming. Thanks for replying to my questions.
This is the drift- www.powertoolworld.co.uk/duro-dp-dk-dry-diamond-core-bit-drift-key
You knock that through the hole and it ejects the tapered drill bit, which stops it from jamming up the core drill.
Thanks for the comment
When using an SDS bit with the hammer action turned off, is the bit only held loosely like when using hammer action? I'm wondering why use an SDS drill for core drilling since you have to turn off the only useful thing SDS does?
+FlyBoyGrounded
A dedicated core drill is very expensive. Some SDS drills have a safety clutch like this one- which makes them perfect for drilling the occasional core without having to buy a dedicated core drill.
nice video. can you use water on the bit to reduce dust?
I love your videos as a young Worker its always good to see experienced !!!
Thanks a lot mate, We drill a lot of holes for flues and some walls are an absolute nightmare to core! Big chunky sds drills are the worst idea ever when used for coring! Since I used a dedicated core drill once a while back, I absolutely want one, Smoothest core ever, That wall happened to be an easy wall to core anyway but still was very relaxing to do it haha
Is it necessary for me to use this heavy drill , I'm only going through breezblock & rockwool
Breeze block is normally quite tough 🤔
I have a 78mm TCT hole cutter. Does the same rule apply? Should the hammer action be turned off?
Thank you
Gandalf4137
Yes, you should not use hammer action with diamond or TCT core drills.
You are welcome ;-)
I thought you had to pump water through the drill to keep dust down and not to keep the teeth cool. It’s all well n good on 4 inch block work but what’s it like on 18inch concrete ?
It depends which core drills you are using. Some are designed to be used wet.
For 18" thick concrete, I would hire a professional core drilling rig, which will probably require water cooling.
quick question I've to make another hole using the proper drill which I borrowed my worry is the outside of the house was freshly plastered just sand and cement render would the hole outside be perfectly round or would it need to be patched up a reply would be great thanks.
+SuperGawin If you are using a core drill like in this video the hole should be perfect, however you are better off drilling a pilot hole straight through the wall, then use the core drill from the inside and the outside to guarantee a clean hole.
yup I just did a core above ceiling grid, 2-1/2" hole...thru brick. Took me about 10 secs of drillin and I bolt to the truck, got my gloves, my mask, my safety glasses and ear plugs. My mask was completely red when I got thru....I was surprised that the vibration went down a little when i put on my gloves. And the ringing in my ears not as bad as when I didn't have plugs on. Learn my lesson that day.
I would recommend keeping the drill bit in place when using the core drill, otherwise the core drill wanders and can result in the hole being way out of line (especially on thick walls).
👍
I've been using the core drills that require the rotary hammer function to work - this looks like a much cleaner QUIETER way of doing things. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment
You’ve been using the core bits wrong. 😂
Very helpful video but I have a question though. I have a set of diamond core drills which came with a SDS plus and hex adaptor and 2 cores with a diameters of 117mm and 127mm (amongst other cores with smaller diameters).
Guidelines of the manufacturer are not to use diamond cores larger than 72mm in diameter with SDS plus drills as this may result in damage to the tool or the adaptor (because of over the overload on the shank). Hence why they provide the hex adaptor with it so that larger diameter cores can be used on drills with standard keyed or keyless locking chuck that can accept large diameter cores. But that makes those cores kinda useless for me using a SDS plus machine.
Since I see you use a core of about 117 mm on an SDS plus, what's your experience on that statement? I'd just need it to drill the occasional hole.
I have bought a couple of sets of Diamond core drills now and neither of them had any instructions whatsoever. I have used large diameter ones in my SDS machine with no problems yet, but they are better in a dedicated core drilling machine with an hex chuck. For occasional use as long as you take it easy I do not think you'll have a problem as long as the machine has a safety clutch
Good evening,
Titan TTB279SDS has a mechanical safety clutch and I was wondering whether it's good enough. It's a rather cheap hammer drill, but its reviews are really good. Four and a half gold stars out of five. Will it do?
Thank you :)
Gandalf4137
It would be ok for the occasional core drill, but not for use all the time with cores as you need a dedicated machine for that really!
Does spraying water keep the dust down and help cutting?
These core drills are not designed to be used wet, but you can get some that require water.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Envelope trick is brilliant. Also, I've seen Shop-Vac secured near to suck up concrete dust, as well as another person "wetting" the area with a fine spray mist.
Have you any idea of what type of envelope was used to catch the dust?
I never took the pilot bit out. Thanks for the advice
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Can I put grease around the hole saw? It's not turning anymore,stays stuck... I'm making a 4" hole in concrete foundation and it's 6 3/4 in thru the 8" thickness. It's not turning to finish the last inch...
I would not use grease, the fumes might be toxic, if it gets warm.
I suppose you could try some water, as long as the water does not get near the electrics on the drill
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman I believe it makes a difference with the openings on the side of the hole saw... The one I'm using doesn't have it, I see yours does...
If ever needed to enlarge a core drilled hole drive some wood into the existing hole and wood drill a hole in the middle. The pilot will follow it easy for the larger hole without fingers going missing.
Just get rid of the pilot drill and offer up a timber template to guide the bigger bit
Hello,
Great video give me confidence to do a job I've been reluctant to start.I bought 127 mm diamond core drill today for drilling a hole for soil pipe in wall, I got 2 questions,is it better to have this size 127mm rather than an exact fit of 110mm(soil pipe is 110 mm)and my main question my drill is useless so im looking for a capable drill are their any particular specs (ie volts,watt or simply a name)i should look for when buying as my eye is on about 5 drills Im not loaded so im looking for a good but powerful drill able for this job any tips i would be very grateful cheers
+brianboru62 You would want to use a SDS drill for sure not a normal compact drill.
+Jay I got one for 40 quid its a beast,took a brick out of the gable end in 30 seconds,so i experienced the difference
I score through the plaster on the inside, saves a massive blowout when you breakthrough. Little bit of dust, no huge chunks of plaster coming off.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Sorry what is the name of the bit that connects to the core bit? your accent is a bit strong.. sounds like 'oirer' when you are saying it. Im not having a dig, just need to know please as I'm ordering all the bits this evening that I need. Very helpful video. Thanks.
Arbor
Sorry about the accent, I know some people struggle understanding me ;-)
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman thank you. I understood every word just fine except for that one haha, the one word I needed lol. Thank you again aha keep up the good work
For the pilot hole, does the bit for that pilot hole needs to be diamond tip or carbide tip? Can I just use the pilot bit that comes with the core bit?
If you don’t have a suitable masonry bit, just use the core drill with the pilot bit installed, then remove the pilot drill to prevent it from jamming, once you have the hole started 👍
Do you ever spray the hole with a fluid to take care of heat buildup?
No, not unless the core bit is designed for wet use (mine are meant to be used dry).
Thanks for the comment 👍
Was really hoping to see the coring of the 2nd side of the cinder blocks. what exactly happens when it binds and you don't have a clutch? Dislocated shoulder?
It depends how fast you let go of the switch. I used to have a 1050W drill with no clutch and that used to snag all the time, but it depends how strong you are. If you are not that strong the best option is just to let go of the thing rather than risking injury.
Thanks for the comment
Great tips, even 9 years later!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I always go through the inside plaster just a few cm to stop it cracking. Can almost guarantee if you go straight through from one side the hole will not be a clean neat cut.
A helper with a Hoover works well inside too to keep dust to a minimum
Great detailed video yet again! Anyway of determining of a drill has the required clutch? I have a 1400W SDS drill from good old Lidl which I hope is OK.
Any reason too for putting the vent hole high up? I thought lower is better to allow moisture to flow down?
On a different topic, I have some led security lights to attach to a garage. Is mortar ok to affix to brick (red)? Mortar can be repaired later on if the lights are removed whereas brick never looks the same?
Cheers
fallofdutee
I suspect the dryer is going on top of that existing machine
your drill is the drill that'll pierce the heavens
+Imperfection
LOL, thanks for the comment ;-)
Just to be clear - do you use hammer drill mode to drill with a diamond core drill? I have always used normal drilling mode (and not hammer) when using the above.
No, you should never use hammer action with diamond cores.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Does black and decker bd155rt quattro have a safety clutch? Been waiting 2 days for a call from manufacturer
I seriously doubt if that has a safety clutch. It's normally the bigger machines that have the safety clutch.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi,
I need to make a circular recess in a brick wall about 100mm deep. Basically similar to the one in the video but not reaching to the opposite side of the brick.
Could you please recommend a method?
Thank you.
Hi, Most bricks in the UK are only 100mm thick so you'd go all the way through?
Armeg make a circular cutter that is designed to be used with their box sinker kit, but I am not sure of the diameter of the cutter.
Thank you. It is two brick party wall. So I have to stop somewhere in between.
Is this core thingy what I’d use to cut a chunk out of the balcony above to replace an oyster light with a down light?
I think it’s called potting a hole maybe?
Not sure about that. I would not go cutting a hole in a balcony without taking advice from a structural engineer.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I need to cut a hole of 152mm (6inch) for a heat recovery extractor (Kair), but can only find 150mm bits where I am. Could I maybe just sand down the remaining couple of mm? Also, do you have any tips on getting the right angle? (apparently the hole I need to make should be sloping downwards to a maximum 1.5 degrees, which sounds very precise...)
That's a bit difficult. Sanding the hole larger would be very difficult and time consuming.
You might be better off hiring s dedicated machine- you might be able to get one that allows drilling on a set angle?
Thanks for the reply. I assumed 2mm was so little it might not make much of a difference. I'll keep looking I suppose - I'm in the Netherlands where 152mm seems a bit of an odd size.
appreciate this, i kept the hammer action on and my block kept splitting. saved me a lot of stress!
Hi. I know this is a 12 year old video but hopefully you’re still out there. I need to core drill a hole for a 110mm diameter soil pipe. I’m not in the trades just a diy,er. I managed to borrow a core drill bit from a friend of a friend who is a plumber. He lent me a 107mm core drill bit for the job. Seems like a silly question but is this the correct size? I did pass the message on to the plumber that it is for a 110mm soil pipe so I’m assuming this is the correct size core drill.
I would not use that to be honest, I’d go for at least a 117mm core drill. 107mm might work in some substrates, as the core drill bits often give you a slightly larger hole, but if you can’t get the soil pipe through, it’s going to take a lot of additional time and effort. Even 117mm might be a bit tight, so 127 might be preferred.
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks for your reply. I will use a 127mm core drill to give me a bit of wiggle room. 👌
Would it be posable to do the same size hole at 45 degrees? and if so what tips could you give me please.
It would be really difficult doing it using a hand held drill, unless you could make a jig (perhaps using a piece of pipe large enough for the core drill bit to fit in, the pipe would need cutting at 45 degrees and pieces would need welding to it, so that you could bolt it to the wall)
It would be much easier hiring out a professional core drilling rig, I think Hilti make them, which can core at 45 degrees.
@@ultimatehandyman Thank you for the reply
thanks for this I did this today following your guide. my problem now is i can't get either the drill bit off off the extension bar not the sds off the extension bar. They screw in. I've lubricated and everything, put it in reverse but I can't get it out. Any ideas?
Have you tried removing the front cover from the SDS drill chuck?
Sometimes if you remove the cover you can un-jam the drill bit.
Separating the extension bar can require a large adjustable spanner (assuming there are flats on the bar to grip), then another spanner to grip the flats on the end of the core itself.
+Ultimate Handyman thanks I'll try the spanner. Extension bar and the arbor is screwed tight and the drill bit also screwed on tight. I can't see a from cover to remove. Are they meant to be this tight to both unscrew?
Yes these are always difficult to undo because they tighten up when using the drill.
wow i finally get to see the simplier demo and therefor it is more understabe to me thankyou sir
👍
Sir where can i buy that core bit
I want kind of core bit
I think it measure 20cm length
Thnks
They are widely available at DIY stores etc. You can also buy them from eBay or Amazon 👍
@Fire System Security
No, a safety clutch stops the machine from turning if the bit gets jammed ;-)
thanks need to know whats best for a heist
@@dezlotto8692 11 lads and lasses.
Hi nice review do we need to put in hammer mode or drill mode
Just drill mode- you do not need hammer action
Thanks for the comment 👍
well explained. just what i needed to understand how to use these drills
Thanks for the comment
I need to fit a 100mm duct, so do I need a 100mm core bit or do I get a 104 or 107mm so the duct can slide through easier?
Just measure the outside diameter of the duct and then get a core which is larger than the diameter.
Never undersize a core drill, or it will make the job ten times harder, always better to go larger and fill the gap with silicone if necessary 👍
@@ultimatehandyman thanks 👍
Not sure why you picked the edges of the two cinder block with mortar in the middle ? It's the hardest to cut that way. Why not choose the hollow part of the cinder block ?
They are not cinder blocks, in the UK lots of concrete blocks like this are solid.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I’m in the UK too, where do you buy this stuff? I need to punch a hole for the drier exhaust, multiple layer wall (including insulation and air space) that I would have to seal before I insert the tube, any tips on how to seal the layers? Thank you!
You can get the core drills on eBay- fave.co/2ATarxL
Normally I just insert the tube, then seal around the tube using a good quality silicone sealant.
Thanks for the comment
Could you use this to drill through the wall of a safety deposit box building?
+Clive Ellis
You could do, but it's much easier using a proper Hilti machine.
th-cam.com/video/XOmPqfNVJ9E/w-d-xo.html
0
Clive Ellis
Sure, if you don't mind the time.
So glad you let him know much better options out there. Especially to make a proper 24+ inch crawl through!
i got to drill through 2 steel reinforced concrete beams above an old doorway and it tool over 2 hours of drilling to get through the outer one and now i got to do the inner one..... the corners are beginning to wear ont slightly on the core bit now :( any advise or just keep going?
the steel bars are about the size of your index finger and i have managed to get through 2 of them in the first beam.
Sorry if it was covered but why would one choose a diamond over carbide tipped core bit?
Diamond core bits are far superior to carbide and will cut harder materials, much faster and the tips will last longer 👍
I actually found that the core drill jamed a lot more when i removed pilot drill, ive done it both ways. So now i leave it in.
Hilti have an instructional video which shows the pilot drill being removed fairly soon. Good enough for me!
th-cam.com/video/MxcWv7BZRgk/w-d-xo.html - for the Hilti video.
Also, Bosch have a good safety video about kickback which is well worth watching.
Hello
Can this tool be used to drill a nice hole in a ceramic floor ? I need to look deep under my bathroom floor for water leak !!
No, I would not use one of these for ceramic.
You could use one of these- th-cam.com/video/ApjI4hMzoZg/w-d-xo.html
But you would need to make a jig to prevent the hole saw from moving.
Does know where can I buy the bit-kit to cut a 4in 1/4 whole thru stucco ? Trying to install a dryer vent in my wash room.
Have you tried ebay?
McMaster Carr
This gives me enough confidence to do this myself instead of paying someone.
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Does the core bit require such a heavy duty drill? Can I use an 800w Hammer drill like a Bosch GSB 19-2RE
Yes, you need a powerful drill with a safety clutch. Using your drill might burn it out!
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman How many watts should we look at for Drilling a 162mm hole through LECA block?
will this work on 18 inch thick victorian stone wall? All the vids I've seen are with the tradesmen cutting into soft breezeblock and brick walls
Yes, it will still work but it could be tough going depending on the type of stone. It should be fine in sandstone, but for granite you might need a professional rig with water cooling.
To use a core drill like this one you need to cut out a core until the core drill cannot cut anymore and then break out the circular section left behind when you pull the core drill out of the hole and keep repeating until you are all the way through. You can buy extension bars for the core's, which you might need to get through such a thick wall.
Hi bud, great vid! What's the difference between blue and silver core bits? I'm a apprentice and don't know weather to buy a silver one or a blue one?
Not sure, I think it's just different manufacturers painting them different colours.
I'd get the best make I could for the money, such as Makita etc.
how do you stop the arbour bit and the core from locking together ? as i was drilling a 4 inch hole for an extractor fan and i couldn't undo the two bits?
Allen Goldsmith
They are not easy to undo.
There are normally two flats machined onto the arbor and the core drill itself which you can grip using two spanners/wrenches.
Is there any advantage to using an SDS drill if you don't use the hammer action setting?
No, there is no advantage. Most professional dedicated core drilling machines use a standard chuck.
Will the extension bar work for an SDS Plus drill or standard SDS drill only? Thanks
It will work with either of them.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Very useful video. Like the envelope on the wall, I normally get the hoover out and hold it awkwardly under the drill.
+Mark Slevin The envelope trick was passed down from my brother in law's mother years ago. I think she saw it on a TV program, or perhaps saw it in a DIY book.Thanks for the comment ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman The envelope trick has been around since The 1930s Mi great granddad told me that I used to use a flute of paper Down to the floor ,The Hoover attachment works best as it sucks onto the wall There's all on Amazon cheap ones from China and expensive ones from Bosch
Solid walls are easy! Brick cavity construction is more difficult as when the core-drill crosses the cavity it may try to jam. Make sure that the fuse in the mains plug is only two or three amp. If perchance a 13 amp fuse is left in the plug, one may have a problem (stripped gears, broken wrist or arm, being tipped off the ladder etc) In actual fact SDS arbors which are really just DIY devices will probably shear off first.
A quite difficult job is drilling vertical holes in Devon-Banks and Cornish Hedges. (Allegedly there are slight variations in construction) Both tend to be made from quarry waste bound together with clay. It is difficult to get plants to grow in such poor soil so holes need to be drilled and usually earth-augers won't work. Something that can tackle clay, stone and tree roots is needed. Continuous wet-diamond might be the best but such drills are hard to find.
+Tech Davey
Thanks for the info ;-)
I use the identical drill. What is the brand name of the diamond bit and Arbor you are using
I'm not sure what brand mine are but there are many similar kits, as long as it comes with the SDS arbour it should be fine- fave.co/2muvp03
Thanks UHM! my dad was trying to bore through a chimney without a pilot bit, its a good thing we hadn't wallpapered yet :P
Nice Demo. My video little similar to this about making chimney hole nicely.
👍
Pilot bit, I learned new. Thank you.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
"I am wearing safety gloves and glasses." I'm more anticipating my hearing before it even began :D
Core drills do not normally make a lot of noise. On site now they have reduced the amount of hearing protection that we have to wear, apparently the HSE have deemed that people cannot hear danger if the DB level is reduced too much.
Thanks for the comment
Today I purchased a 78mm diamond core drill. I have Bosch GBH 2-26 DRE, but I am not sure if it's good enough. Do I need something bigger?
Gandalf4137
It should be fine, although there does not seem to be a safety clutch on that machine which you should really have when core drilling. If you are going to be doing a lot of core drilling a dedicated machine with a safety clutch is recommended, but for the occasional core drill your machine should be fine.
*****
Yes, you are right. It only has an overload clutch which helps to a certain extent, but having a safety clutch is better. I work as an electrician and I might need something better. I have been thinking of buying a Sparky BUR 355 ce because it is pretty affordable, but people say that most Sparky drills are good for nothing. What would you recommend?
Thank you
Gandalf4137
You are welcome ;-)
Unfortunately dedicated core drill machines are not cheap. I just checked screwfix and they have two Sparky models on special offer at £169.99 but for £30 more you could get the Dewalt silver bullet. They seem to have pretty good reviews on Screwfix.
Some people don't rate Dewalt tools, but I have lots of Dewalt tools and they have all been fine!
I'd definitely not risk a Sparky model just to save a few quid. I can only find the BUR2 355CE models on Screwfix and they are only 700W compared to the Dewalt at 1300W.
*****
I currently live in Bulgaria and think there are 2-3 Sparky factories and buying a Sparky drill is not that expensive. The make appears to be German, though. Anyway, the one I found is 1260 W and I think that's pretty good. Dewalt is a top make. I could buy the silver bullet off ebay if necessary. Have you ever used Sparky drills? Are they any good? I usually use Milwaukee, Bosch, Hitachi and Makita.
Gandalf4137
Sorry, I have not used Sparky drills and do not know anyone that has.
All my tools are Dewalt/Bosch/Milwaukee and a little Makita.
Sparky are sold by Screwfix in the UK, they have reviews on their site and the Sparky stuff does not get good reviews- www.screwfix.com/c/tools/corded-diamond-core-drills/cat830820
@Dean Mckeown
The one in the video I think was Silverline. I have since purchased a Makita set which was only a few quid more expensive than the Silverline.
is the Makita a lot better?
+brianboru62
I have not tried them yet.
I'll try and set up a comparison test when I have time ;-)
@ brianboru62
If it's just the one hole you are doing your best option might be to hire a dedicated core cutting machine for the day?
I'd always go for a slightly larger core drill- the last thing you want is a hole that is slightly too small.
If you are buying a machine get the most powerful you can afford but make sure it has the safety clutch ;-)
thanks bought this has clutch www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261643684338 seems good enough. Its doin me head in having an internal soil pipe its causing heaps of probs coz the internal pipe just gets in the way of fitting my bathroom suite in the desired manner.Hence watching your vid on using a core drill bit.hopefully from :( to :)
brianboru62
That should do the trick, please let me know how you get on with it ;-)
trainmanmusic
HAHA stay away from hire stores unless you your a busy tradesman and you NEED something desperately.Otherwise ebay was great for me saved a fortune and that drill i bought is a beast it whizzes through concrete posts ( to fasten and screw gate post too).Hire stores scandalous prices,I was lucky and bought a 110mm diamond core hole saw 28 quid,a hire store i enquired would have charged me 58 quid for one days use of very same core drill.
+brianboru62 Hire shops are best avoided. F'rintance years ago I got roped-into helping a mate take down a load of trees at a GFs house. A petrol driven shredder had been hired but I took one look at it and knew that it wouldn't work. The machine employed a drum with swinging flails but the flails were worn and rounded like the helmet on ones privates! Yup the machine didn't work and it even struggled with a small bit of brush wood. It was taken back straightaway and to the hirer's surprise the proprietor of the shop hadn't even put the thirty quid in the till. Presumably he KNEW that the shredder wouldn't work!
With no shredder the bonfire method had to be used. Unfortunately a very tough looking and irate bloke soon arrived ranting on about soot and smoke on his wife's washing. It was looking like a fist fight but there were several of us so the bloke backed-down. Phew! hire shops can cause a LOT of trouble so take care!
With hindsight it might have been better to reverse or sharpen the flails but when one pays £30 for a days hire its a bit much to be expected to service the machine as well!
+Tech Davey Bloody hell aye,hire anything for 2 weeks and you coujd have ended up buying the friggin thing.
Hence why i bought a diamond hole cutter for what..£20 notes.saved meself 40 quid im sure for a weeks hire that came with a hammer drill.Stuff that got me drill of ebay bloody great take a brick out in 20 seconds.i got the diamond cutter from a weird shop that sells oddball tools giant pliars or ball joint splitters(alice in wonderland for tool heads)
Good video on the correct procedure for dry diamond coring. However, SDS machines are really not that suitable for this application. They might be big and powerful, but they do not rev fast enough for the diamond segments to work properly. A dedicated dry diamond core machine will rev between a variable 700 & 2500rpm and will have a slipping clutch.
Nice demo but your Bosch GBH4 is not a core drill, I have one and it can be okay for smallish holes in softer materials but the safety clutch just isn't adequate imo. If you were up a ladder and snagged it the drill would throw you so you wouldn't want to use it on very hard brick, large diameter cores or difficult or potentially dangerous situations. The ground floor of a garage is fine as you can just let go.
Thanks, but this drill's clutch will prevent it from grabbing and injuring the user.
Thanks for the comment
Hi there.
Can a 110 hole be drilled with a normal cordless hammer drill. I realise that it would take longer and I noted your comments about having a slip clutch. I suppose I could hire a core drill. Any thoughts would be great.
It might do the job but you risk injuring yourself if the core bit jams, you could also damage your machine. It is possible but could be dangerous ;-)
Brilliant thanks for the quick reply would a normal sds drill be ok then i've been looking at a few and i can get a cheapish one for £70
Ivan Rubery
It depends if it has a safety clutch or not (most don't)
Unfortunately dedicated hole saw drills are very expensive but some SDS machines can do the occasional core hole as long as they have a safety clutch.
Thank you. Brilliant info
don't use the hammer function
will this type of drill bit drill through a 6" REINFORCED solid concrete wall? Thanks in advance
hi can you use it on tiles to cut the hole out.
Or is it just brick work?
They should work in some tiles but not porcelain as they are very tough.
Hi
So It should be ok for normal bathroom tiles.
+Ian Marsh
Yes, as long as they are not porcelain.
Cheers thank you.
Ian
I have a Bosch - 11241EVS drill but it doesnt have only drilling option. It works either hammer or hammer drill so can I use diamond 3' with hammer and drill option together. Will it be stable at first???