Thank you for this great video! I just got an Amiga 1200 (my first 1200 ever, had a 500 before) from ebay and this video gave me the final push of confidence I needed to do the recapping later today.
I would like to say "Thank you" to Chris for recapping my motherboard and am happy to say it is working perfectly. If anyone needs their Amiga repaired you can feel confident Chris is more than capable or quality work. Just make sure to email him first. No Joke.
Hi Chris! I was watching your video but really stands out what you say on 13' about packages and your free help. You are a rare gem my friend! Keep up the great work!
They did come with the original commodore internal shielding in the UK. Its common for users in the UK back in the day to remove the upper shielding because it was cheaper in the early 90's to squeeze a 3.5" IDE hard drive into the A1200 and you had to leave the upper shielding off to close the upper plastic case, with a bulge, after fitting the HD. I have my original 1200 from 90's without its upper shielding, lost in time after I removed it unfortunately. I have 2 other 1200's, one modded with no upper shielding and one stock that still has the upper shielding still intact. As a comparison my A500 and A500+ both have there original shielding, rusty but still there. Any other 500's I have handled/repaired have had their shielding still intact. Great channel 👍🏻
My two UK "Eurozone" A1200's have the metal shield and plastic sheet, the top shield is off obviously as I am diving in and out of them after getting inspiration to do things after watching this gem of a channel :)
I'm from Portugal, and all my five amigas came with metal sheeting: A500 and A600 bought locally A full Rev2 A1200 bought from the UK and another Rev1 (only the motherboard, that I use in an old PC case); A CD32 bought from the UK. Only on the CD32 have I kept the shielding after recapping it. For the others, due to the expansions, I've removed the top of the shielding (they are in storage, just in case one day I need them back). As far as I know, there were no A500, A600, A1200, or CD32 without the full metal shielding.
I have tried a few methods of Cap Removal on some old dead PC Mobos and your snip and pluck method is not risky and works perfectly for me. Great job in showing it nice and slowly and zoomed in. -Mark.
I live in Britain and have had 2 Amiga A1200's. They both had a top and bottom metal RF shield with the plastic layer for the bottom one. And the same for the one Amiga A500 I have.
Hi Chris, thanks for another fine video from you. I have 2 points I want to mention. By the keyboard connetcor you can lift the top connector part, or take it off if you are not afraid to break it, and that will give you 2-3mm more space to operate in. I belive you have never had pad damage from snipping, but if you make sure that you snip from pad to pad on the capasitor, then you will releif the stress on the legs - I can see in your video the the legs are bend a bit from snipping stress and that can be avoided.
Everyone that say that 1200's did not come with RF shielding in Europe. Are eighter having dementia or only had second hand 1200's with the RF shield remove by previous owner. Everyone that were into computers and had or used 1200's in the early 1990's. Know it came with a full RF shield. That is both top and bottom shield.
It's just the top shielding that A600s often didn't have in the UK and EU (as supplied from factory). Some did have it but many didn't as it wasn't needed to meet the regulations here Not sure if the same for the 1200. I have 5 A600s here. Two of them were from new in the 90s, and neither had the upper shield (and no I don't have dementia, and no they were not second hand)
@@brostenen well I got 5 here and none have. 2 of which were new purchases back in the 90s. One was an original (still warranty sealed) inherited from a friend years ago, and the others were second hand and opened.
to each their own, ive done over 250+ repairs on Amigas this way. and never lost a pad. IF you can afford hot tweezers by all means do so. I have them, but they dont ALWAYS fit in tight spots. but you do you. IF you choose to use My way, then practice on some old PC parts first. get the hang of the steps, it is critical you follow them or you will rip things. dont be an adrian
LMFAO at the Hertell jokes... ;) Funny shit, Chris! Btw. regarding the plastic shielding, PAL machines do have that. Mine does and it was bought in Sweden.
Great video Chris!! I can see that cap by the keyboard connector being a pain.....Should I desolder the connector, or maybe use transverse end cutters or end cutter pliers?
Thank you for this. There is nothing wrong with cutting caps but most people leave out the details. If they are really skanky caps, you don't know how much damage there is under it or near something that doesn't like heat it's the best choice. Have you tried using end cutter style nippers for the ones you can't get at with the side nippers? I have had luck with them. My much missed long gone A1200 I think had a board in the trap door with an ATI labeled chip and I think a 68040. That ring any bells? I have never seen one like it and sadly never got to really get into it before I had to store it and it was... given away for me. Before I bought it in the late 90s I think it was a graphics/animation workstation.
Way back when I got my UK A1200 new in box (While Commodore were still trading), it had the metal RF case and plastic separator. No copper shield on the ports, though. Oh, and that "thing" is called a "nut driver".
Those metal clips on the shielding. Never solder them. Use apple repair tools to bend them to remove shielding then apple plastic repair tools to bend them back in. They can break easily. I just use a flat screwdriver because the plastic tools keep breaking just by trying to remove all the shielding.
Thanks for showing the recapping process again! One question: I bought a 1200 (with TF1260) last year, which is said to be recapped. It actually is, as far as I could judge. BUT as I saw later on, several electrolytic caps (C459, 214, 407, 324, 334, 303, 304) were replaced with ceramics! Ceramics are NP, so might be ok with the tricky 324 and 334, but with all other polarized caps? 🤔 The Amiga with LC060 at 50MHz works perfectly fine, no overheating components (for what I can judge), no crashes! But the bad feeling of having the "wrong" caps inside remains of course.
Ceramics in place of el caps or smd? do you mean Tantalums? they have different voltage characteristics with temperature changes that is why people don’t usually use them
@@ChrisEdwardsRestoration SMD ceramic caps in place of (most) SMD el caps, the ones I mentioned before. Too bad YT won't let me put a link here, but in all of my recent videos there's a link in the description to my Amiga photo album with hi-res pics of the PCB. Although the Amiga works (after removing the known E123C and E125C on the backside for stability reasons with accelerator cards), I think I'll dive into this cap issue again and replace the wrong ones (later this year ^^).
@@carlosbragatto No, SMD ceramics. A few months ago I did a Audio mod on my Atari Falcon, where I soldered ceramics and tantalums (and resistors), so I know the difference between these. Unfortunately SMD ceramics have no writing on it, so I can't even say if the correct values were used on my Amiga rec(r)apping. 🙄
The additonal shielding on NTSC Amigas has been attributed to the stricter RF emission standards in the USA. PAL is a version of NTSC where the phase is changed on Alternate Lines, hence "Phase Alternation LIne". It is less susceptible to interference than NTSC, so emission requirements don't have to be as strict.
Haha you knew you'd get hammered for the ✂️- I've done all mine with reflow hot air but hey different strokes for different folks. This might be a time saving strategy for the caps between the keyboard connector and the rca jacks onna 600 and 1200 though - would save removing those to avoid melting them with hot air on the condition you have a skinny enough soldering iron tip to get back in there with the replacement caps.
My A1200 has so much shielding it's impossible to remove. No plastic. Pal PCB with US keyboard. I still don't know what the black key does left to the Z key.
Depends on your iron they’re all a little different i run mine at 575f which is 300c but if i have a smaller tip i need it hotter. Like 350c but you can Practice on pc junk to find your optimal temperature. My Most Solder starts to melt around 400f and flow a little higher after
Hehe (Chucky joke -had me lol-ing) =D The bottom line is there are different ways of removing these caps - personally I prefer 2 irons, but I've cut them off in the past and never lost a pad! It's whatever you get used to works best!
there is less risk with two irons, and flux... I believe... with the cutting method, you must be really good at it... :D but there is even risks to the eyes... because of the acid and stuff inside.
Must have missed this video 🤔 Thanks Dr Chris and TH-cam algorithm 👍🏻🍻 All the A1200’s I have bought here in Blighty (Great Britain 🇬🇧) always had the under metal shielding 😳
@@ChrisEdwardsRestoration You do give other people an example of how to recap. Also with leakage traces can come lose quick when pulling alittle. It can happen if you cut with pliers that you pull alittle while cutting. So it means you need to be very careful while cutting.. Also pliers can get blunt as you cover in your video.
My UK A1200’s came with the shield, I think the misunderstanding was that the shielding wasn’t a requirement over here but generally electronic products just had it anyway Edit: after posting that I see that just about every man and his dog has posted the same 😂
If your going to do this for others i would recommend just getting the proper equipment to desolder them correctly. Yes its expensive, but your doing it as a service. The Hakko base and set of micro desoldering parallels are NOT that bad and are worth what you save in a mistake if it happens and you need to replace someone's board you mess up.
I was watching Joe from Joe's computer Museum cut caps off a macintosh board like this on a livestream the other day. I can't bring myself to do this. I'll take the slow route. Good for you though. I know that you are capable of repairing lifted pads if the worst happens anyway.
Same here. I have an external flicker fixer box that had some nasty cap leakage, and one of the pads was already starting to lift. If I had used the twist method to remove the caps that pad would have been a goner for sure.
"practice on PC components. not Amigas" lol. I plugged in the commodore 12 power brick into the OSSC yesterday. RIP. I didn't realise it doesn't have protection against anything higher than 5V.
Ok, damn, my apologies I have already shipped a container of Amiga stuff from a old TV station your way for you to fix, I hope you have space for it, should have contacted you in advance! Do you have any place sized to international shipping lane container sizes? (About the size of the ding dong) Hehehe, JK
Do you really think Chris would use a method that was dodgy on other peoples boards ? They send them to him because he must get the job done in satisfactory manner.
@@damjohanson people dislike anything that is not their way or the way they learned. . there are many ways to accomplish tasks. i wont hate on others for their ways its not like im melting pads off or doing something insane..
@@ChuckyGang as I said, I'm sure he uses the appropriate method when it calls for it. See 14:25 - 15:43 for his reasoning, which suggests he uses hot air methods when it calls for it, which seems fine to me.
I don't know who these people in Europe are but I have 2 Amiga 1200 computers and both come with full shielding and nearly every A1200 I see advertised also have full shielding. People do come out with some stupid things ( not Chris ).
well it will be a couple of more boards sent to me with ripped pads because people saw it on youtube.. however. I will not repair them anymore and tell them to send their boards to recrappers that use force to remove the components.. I would suggest a hammer!
OMG why, why in the world you do that? Why you don't do two fine solder at once? I can remove all SMD caps in a matter of 1 minute with 2 soder technique Also they are pop straight off in a funny manner!
@@ChrisEdwardsRestoration I did watch it. You might be able to get away with this approach when the caps haven't caused any corrosion, but if there is any damage from the electrolytic fluid, you will very likely tear tracks off the PCB.
@@ChrisEdwardsRestoration Btw, the other option is to buy a second Soldering station and then you can heat up both sides at the same time and lift the cap straight off. it's frequently faster than hot air and just as safe.
Thank you for this great video! I just got an Amiga 1200 (my first 1200 ever, had a 500 before) from ebay and this video gave me the final push of confidence I needed to do the recapping later today.
I would like to say "Thank you" to Chris for recapping my motherboard and am happy to say it is working perfectly. If anyone needs their Amiga repaired you can feel confident Chris is more than capable or quality work. Just make sure to email him first. No Joke.
UK 1200's have full shielding and plastic sheet insulators, from factory. I've been inside at least 10 1200's todate.
Hi Chris! I was watching your video but really stands out what you say on 13' about packages and your free help. You are a rare gem my friend! Keep up the great work!
Great job Chris! I watch your videos regularly.
All my Amigas have plastic spacers.
Greetings from Poland.
All my A1200s, since back in the days, came with both the metal and plastic bottom shields, and I live in the Euro zone 🙂
They did come with the original commodore internal shielding in the UK.
Its common for users in the UK back in the day to remove the upper shielding because it was cheaper in the early 90's to squeeze a 3.5" IDE hard drive into the A1200 and you had to leave the upper shielding off to close the upper plastic case, with a bulge, after fitting the HD.
I have my original 1200 from 90's without its upper shielding, lost in time after I removed it unfortunately.
I have 2 other 1200's, one modded with no upper shielding and one stock that still has the upper shielding still intact.
As a comparison my A500 and A500+ both have there original shielding, rusty but still there.
Any other 500's I have handled/repaired have had their shielding still intact.
Great channel 👍🏻
Many 600s didn't come with top shielding from factory in the UK and EU
@@LemaruX Interesting. Out of all the Amigas I have had or opened i have never had an A600 so that's an interesting fact.
Duly noted 👍🏻
My two UK "Eurozone" A1200's have the metal shield and plastic sheet, the top shield is off obviously as I am diving in and out of them after getting inspiration to do things after watching this gem of a channel :)
Ditto
UK here, back in the day my amigas 500 and 1200 all had the shields.
Hi Chris, I have 3 A1200’s in the UK and all have the metal shield with plastic too so not just US
I'm from Portugal, and all my five amigas came with metal sheeting:
A500 and A600 bought locally
A full Rev2 A1200 bought from the UK and another Rev1 (only the motherboard, that I use in an old PC case);
A CD32 bought from the UK.
Only on the CD32 have I kept the shielding after recapping it.
For the others, due to the expansions, I've removed the top of the shielding (they are in storage, just in case one day I need them back).
As far as I know, there were no A500, A600, A1200, or CD32 without the full metal shielding.
I have tried a few methods of Cap Removal on some old dead PC Mobos and your snip and pluck method is not risky and works perfectly for me. Great job in showing it nice and slowly and zoomed in. -Mark.
yeah but my damn hand missed the kill shot being in the way as usual. hahahah
My PAL A1200's all have the plastic shield, I haven't see the copper doo-dad though.
Yup same with my 2 Amiga 1200's. Metal and plastic, just like the video
Thanks Chris, super informative!
I live in Britain and have had 2 Amiga A1200's. They both had a top and bottom metal RF shield with the plastic layer for the bottom one. And the same for the one Amiga A500 I have.
Yup. People who claim otherwise and are people who actually used computers. Are eighter lying or have dementia.
Exceptional tutorial. I think I can do my own next time. Great job!
Hi Chris, thanks for another fine video from you. I have 2 points I want to mention. By the keyboard connetcor you can lift the top connector part, or take it off if you are not afraid to break it, and that will give you 2-3mm more space to operate in. I belive you have never had pad damage from snipping, but if you make sure that you snip from pad to pad on the capasitor, then you will releif the stress on the legs - I can see in your video the the legs are bend a bit from snipping stress and that can be avoided.
Yes thank you i show that in another video
Yes mine did have both the plastic insulation and the full lower shield.
I've never had an A1200 either new or unmodified without full metal shield or plastic sheet. UK.
lol John will be happy with this one, glad you said something about random people just sending repairs
PAL A1200s in Australia have both metal and plastic on the shield btw
Always hilarious, thanks Chris…good stuff.
Everyone that say that 1200's did not come with RF shielding in Europe. Are eighter having dementia or only had second hand 1200's with the RF shield remove by previous owner.
Everyone that were into computers and had or used 1200's in the early 1990's. Know it came with a full RF shield. That is both top and bottom shield.
It's just the top shielding that A600s often didn't have in the UK and EU (as supplied from factory). Some did have it but many didn't as it wasn't needed to meet the regulations here
Not sure if the same for the 1200. I have 5 A600s here. Two of them were from new in the 90s, and neither had the upper shield (and no I don't have dementia, and no they were not second hand)
@@LemaruX I only saw three 600's between 1992 and 2003. And all had the complete shield.
@@brostenen well I got 5 here and none have. 2 of which were new purchases back in the 90s. One was an original (still warranty sealed) inherited from a friend years ago, and the others were second hand and opened.
Euro zone calling ..... metal shield, top AND bottom present ..... top since discarded though :)
I've had 3 UK Amiga 1200s and they all came with metal shielding on both sides.
UK version is different. I have the same problem.
Great video, thanks! Which is generally safer, this method or hot tweezers?
to each their own, ive done over 250+ repairs on Amigas this way. and never lost a pad. IF you can afford hot tweezers by all means do so. I have them, but they dont ALWAYS fit in tight spots. but you do you. IF you choose to use My way, then practice on some old PC parts first. get the hang of the steps, it is critical you follow them or you will rip things. dont be an adrian
@@ChrisEdwardsRestoration Thanks!
Yet another great job Chris, care and attention all the way.
Haha. Okay some fun humor in this one! A another great example of how it can be done. Good stuff Dr. Chris!
LMFAO at the Hertell jokes... ;) Funny shit, Chris!
Btw. regarding the plastic shielding, PAL machines do have that. Mine does and it was bought in Sweden.
Need my A1200 Recapping. I'm in the UK and mine had the RF Shielding.
Great video Chris!! I can see that cap by the keyboard connector being a pain.....Should I desolder the connector, or maybe use transverse end cutters or end cutter pliers?
You can if you wish or remove the RCA jacks which is easier
I pretty much do it the same way. I've done it that way for years. That said, prepare for hate.
Thank you for this. There is nothing wrong with cutting caps but most people leave out the details. If they are really skanky caps, you don't know how much damage there is under it or near something that doesn't like heat it's the best choice. Have you tried using end cutter style nippers for the ones you can't get at with the side nippers? I have had luck with them. My much missed long gone A1200 I think had a board in the trap door with an ATI labeled chip and I think a 68040. That ring any bells? I have never seen one like it and sadly never got to really get into it before I had to store it and it was... given away for me. Before I bought it in the late 90s I think it was a graphics/animation workstation.
Just curious, what model LCD monitor are you using that seems to like 15KHz output. Apologies if you covered this at some point and I missed it.
Dell u2410-F
@@ChrisEdwardsRestoration thank you, sir!
Way back when I got my UK A1200 new in box (While Commodore were still trading), it had the metal RF case and plastic separator. No copper shield on the ports, though. Oh, and that "thing" is called a "nut driver".
Ditto, mine came with both the RF-shield and plastic (UK Amiga and Escom Amiga)
My UK A1200 definitely has the metal shield & plastic sheet - I sliced my finger open on the frickin thing!!!
Still not using the soild liquid paste are you Chris? :) It would make your soildering look less lumpy on the surface mount components.
No
Hey Dr.Chris great work like every time, tnx for lesson. This Amiga board look perfect, like new ❤ Grating from Germany 🍻
Those metal clips on the shielding. Never solder them. Use apple repair tools to bend them to remove shielding then apple plastic repair tools to bend them back in. They can break easily. I just use a flat screwdriver because the plastic tools keep breaking just by trying to remove all the shielding.
My Eurozone (well UK) A1200s have the metal and the plastic sheet...
The one cap I hate removing is C408, the neg sits in a large area of copper that sucks the heat out of the iron...
Thanks for showing the recapping process again! One question: I bought a 1200 (with TF1260) last year, which is said to be recapped. It actually is, as far as I could judge. BUT as I saw later on, several electrolytic caps (C459, 214, 407, 324, 334, 303, 304) were replaced with ceramics! Ceramics are NP, so might be ok with the tricky 324 and 334, but with all other polarized caps? 🤔
The Amiga with LC060 at 50MHz works perfectly fine, no overheating components (for what I can judge), no crashes! But the bad feeling of having the "wrong" caps inside remains of course.
Ceramics in place of el caps or smd? do you mean Tantalums? they have different voltage characteristics with temperature changes that is why people don’t usually use them
Aren't you saying they are ceramics, but in fact, they are tantalums? Yellow rectangles? Tantalums.
recrappers usually use wrong method to remove caps and put in wrong components!... it is included in the term "recrapping"
@@ChrisEdwardsRestoration SMD ceramic caps in place of (most) SMD el caps, the ones I mentioned before. Too bad YT won't let me put a link here, but in all of my recent videos there's a link in the description to my Amiga photo album with hi-res pics of the PCB.
Although the Amiga works (after removing the known E123C and E125C on the backside for stability reasons with accelerator cards), I think I'll dive into this cap issue again and replace the wrong ones (later this year ^^).
@@carlosbragatto No, SMD ceramics. A few months ago I did a Audio mod on my Atari Falcon, where I soldered ceramics and tantalums (and resistors), so I know the difference between these. Unfortunately SMD ceramics have no writing on it, so I can't even say if the correct values were used on my Amiga rec(r)apping. 🙄
Incredible video...thank you chris.
Euro Amiga 1200 looks likes this, even with "copper bro" ;)
The additonal shielding on NTSC Amigas has been attributed to the stricter RF emission standards in the USA. PAL is a version of NTSC where the phase is changed on Alternate Lines, hence "Phase Alternation LIne". It is less susceptible to interference than NTSC, so emission requirements don't have to be as strict.
Haha you knew you'd get hammered for the ✂️- I've done all mine with reflow hot air but hey different strokes for different folks. This might be a time saving strategy for the caps between the keyboard connector and the rca jacks onna 600 and 1200 though - would save removing those to avoid melting them with hot air on the condition you have a skinny enough soldering iron tip to get back in there with the replacement caps.
All 4 of my "swedish" A1200 have plastic and metal shielding.
My A1200 has so much shielding it's impossible to remove. No plastic. Pal PCB with US keyboard. I still don't know what the black key does left to the Z key.
How hot should my iron be?
Depends on your iron they’re all a little different i run mine at 575f which is 300c but if i have a smaller tip i need it hotter. Like 350c but you can Practice on pc junk to find your optimal temperature. My
Most Solder starts to melt around 400f and flow a little higher after
What do you mean by, “575f which is 300f…”?
Oh! 300c
I’m saying both Fahrenheit and Celsius temperatures because I live in the Fahrenheit zone
And apparently I type old
All my a1200’s have metal and plastic (uk)
awesome vid
If it works then it works. If you're not pulling pads and tracks then it's all good.
Hehe (Chucky joke -had me lol-ing) =D The bottom line is there are different ways of removing these caps - personally I prefer 2 irons, but I've cut them off in the past and never lost a pad! It's whatever you get used to works best!
there is less risk with two irons, and flux... I believe...
with the cutting method, you must be really good at it... :D but there is even risks to the eyes... because of the acid and stuff inside.
Must have missed this video 🤔 Thanks Dr Chris and TH-cam algorithm 👍🏻🍻 All the A1200’s I have bought here in Blighty (Great Britain 🇬🇧) always had the under metal shielding 😳
My a1200 (pal) came from Germany and has a plastic liner.
There are faster ways of removing capacitors with lower risk also.
Hot tweezers. Hot air. Plenty. I state that in the video
@@ChrisEdwardsRestoration You do give other people an example of how to recap. Also with leakage traces can come lose quick when pulling alittle. It can happen if you cut with pliers that you pull alittle while cutting. So it means you need to be very careful while cutting.. Also pliers can get blunt as you cover in your video.
I am in the Euro zone, my Amiga 1200 does have the metal shield and the plastic insert, just like the one from where Jesus lives.
There you go!
My UK A1200’s came with the shield, I think the misunderstanding was that the shielding wasn’t a requirement over here but generally electronic products just had it anyway
Edit: after posting that I see that just about every man and his dog has posted the same 😂
If your going to do this for others i would recommend just getting the proper equipment to desolder them correctly. Yes its expensive, but your doing it as a service. The Hakko base and set of micro desoldering parallels are NOT that bad and are worth what you save in a mistake if it happens and you need to replace someone's board you mess up.
Many ways this ones mine
A new good epic episode 🙂🙂
I was watching Joe from Joe's computer Museum cut caps off a macintosh board like this on a livestream the other day. I can't bring myself to do this. I'll take the slow route. Good for you though. I know that you are capable of repairing lifted pads if the worst happens anyway.
Same here. I have an external flicker fixer box that had some nasty cap leakage, and one of the pads was already starting to lift. If I had used the twist method to remove the caps that pad would have been a goner for sure.
I DIDNT TWIST
Lorena approves of this video.😂
"practice on PC components. not Amigas" lol. I plugged in the commodore 12 power brick into the OSSC yesterday. RIP. I didn't realise it doesn't have protection against anything higher than 5V.
link to cap map jpg?
I just
Googled it
just trying to share some tips. thats what mona said ;)
Ok, damn, my apologies I have already shipped a container of Amiga stuff from a old TV station your way for you to fix, I hope you have space for it, should have contacted you in advance!
Do you have any place sized to international shipping lane container sizes? (About the size of the ding dong)
Hehehe, JK
I also have never had an A1200 here in the UK without a full metal shield lined with plastic sheeting the same as where Jesus lives.
Haters gonna hate. I have never lost a pad or trace either. 😆
Kudos for joke. (I am born quite close to the capital of good jokes in Sweden so..)
but. learning people how to wreck their boards is wrong..
not wrecking the boards. damn you swedes! hahahaha
Do you really think Chris would use a method that was dodgy on other peoples boards ? They send them to him because he must get the job done in satisfactory manner.
@@damjohanson people dislike anything that is not their way or the way they learned. . there are many ways to accomplish tasks. i wont hate on others for their ways its not like im melting pads off or doing something insane..
@@damjohanson Sadly apparenlty as he cuts them off and that is not a good way of doing it
@@ChuckyGang as I said, I'm sure he uses the appropriate method when it calls for it. See 14:25 - 15:43 for his reasoning, which suggests he uses hot air methods when it calls for it, which seems fine to me.
*facepalm*
I don't know who these people in Europe are but I have 2 Amiga 1200 computers and both come with full shielding and nearly every A1200 I see advertised also have full shielding. People do come out with some stupid things ( not Chris ).
the A1200 was all delivered with full sheilding. some A600 however seems not to be. but 1200 . yes.
DO NOT USE THIS METHOD! You will RUIN YOUR AMIGA!
Just kidding, I have no idea. I just thought I would troll Chris
No you wont
@@ChrisEdwardsRestoration Read the whole message LOL
I did
well it will be a couple of more boards sent to me with ripped pads because people saw it on youtube..
however. I will not repair them anymore and tell them to send their boards to recrappers that use force to remove the components.. I would suggest a hammer!
@@ChrisEdwardsRestoration good, because I was joking 🙂
OMG why, why in the world you do that? Why you don't do two fine solder at once?
I can remove all SMD caps in a matter of 1 minute with 2 soder technique
Also they are pop straight off in a funny manner!
yeah rocketships. and no
Snipping caps is the butchers way! Just get a hot air station and F'N do it properly!!!
Did you watch the damn video. Or just comment on the title
@@ChrisEdwardsRestoration I did watch it. You might be able to get away with this approach when the caps haven't caused any corrosion, but if there is any damage from the electrolytic fluid, you will very likely tear tracks off the PCB.
@@ChrisEdwardsRestoration Btw, the other option is to buy a second Soldering station and then you can heat up both sides at the same time and lift the cap straight off. it's frequently faster than hot air and just as safe.
@@Cybernetic_Systems Two irons is the way ,or get faster with a single iron. Hot air is asking for plastic trouble on cheap machines like the Amiga
@@Jasonsadventures you just shield the plastic parts with Kapton tape