My 1st car - very used 1954 Plymouth and couldn't live without WD40 and duct tape. Yes I know I'm old but still young mind and love this new channel 💯%👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏😉 ps how about an old Nova if any still around.
For cleaning of grease an grime anywhere on the car, don't use anything other than break cleaner. It evaporates real quick and really cleans good. It is cheap too. I have a "suede" coat. You know... the light beige thick coat with the sheep wool on the inside. Was in the garage of a friend of mine once. He was working on a CV joint of some car. Of course BLACK thick grease on the damn thing. And me being me I didn't use the eyes that I am supposed to use when stumbling through life, so I ended up walking into the thing with my shoulder. Totally black. Wiping only made it worse. He was laughing. I was really upset. Came up to me with a can break cleaner, sprayed it on, wiped it clean in a minute. Soaked it. Used some paper towels to clean again and just washed it in the machine. Came out new. So for grease cleaning, I would get boxes of those cans. Really cheap. Really useful. For rust removal there are plenty of liquids... but WD40 often does the trick and often is on hand since everyone has got that stuff. On some milling/iron smith/tool restoration channel I also saw some stuff being used... dunno what the name was. But it is liquid rust remover. Just put the part in, totally rusted, and it comes out clean enough to be able to lightly brush and reuse. I can imagine that stuff would work wonders on stuck bolts too, if sprayed.
I use a baking soda-water mixture to neutralize the battery acid, and at the same time give the whole battery a good scrub. If it's unclean it can (very slightly) leak current. You can test for this with a multimeter if you place it on the top cover of the battery. And its also much more easygoing to handle the battery when it's not corrosive all over.
I was going to post the same advice. You have to be careful that the baking soda doesn't get into the battery. Probably should have power wash the engine bay on low setting.
@@snowleopard9749 baking soda can be corrosive because it has sodium, but that takes longer. The foaming is from the baking soda neutralizing the acid from the battery. Like when you mix it with vinegar.
Excellent advice. My Bronco wouldn't start. Mechanic said, "Replace the wiring harness." Took it to my buddy. He replaced the battery terminal connectors, cleaned the terminals, replaced the ends of the wires, and voila! No more problems. Also, saved the cost of a new battery, which runs $80 to $100. PS he loves WD-40 also. GMTA
On my old J-10 I started losing headlights and certain other electrical stuff. Was also hard to start making me think a bad ignition switch. Turned out not a battery, not a switch, not a wiring harness, but a loose bolt through the firewall holding the interior fuse box to the wiring harness box. In my area it is also hotter than hell oftentimes, so the weather seal had also softened and sagged into the terminal box on the firewall. That truck took a real beating and rarely was on a real road. But always a good idea to start with the cheap solutions first!
Great video guys. This is great timing. I just had to disconnect the battery on my Honda Accord (2005) because my brake lights were staying permanently on. I've just got replace this little plastic switch on my brake pedal, but I needed to unhook the battery until I have the replace part.
Hondas and Acuras are also famous for the morning dead battery syndrome caused by cheap relays and blue tooth modules. It all starts with a barely noticeable parasitic drain to ground when the relays do not open after they are signaled to turn off (like the AC clutch relay), or a thin little trace on a pc board finally breaks and makes the bluetooth module into a little heater even when the car is shut off.
If you have ever witnessed a car battery explode while someone tapped on the terminal, you wouldn't be tapping on those with a hammer. A weak cracked buss internally attached to that terminal makes a spark in there, suddenly its very loud and violent.
I know a backyard mechanic that was refilling the electrolyte on a car battery while it was running and he was smoking and he ended up severely scarring his face, not pretty
Yeah dont tap on battery posts at best you may break the post.. Use a pipe wrench to get stuck ones off and get a terminal spreader if the terminal wont go down on the post.
i usually use the box end of a wrench/spanner so i hit only the tool and not the post across the top so the connector goes on evenly. edit, sorry, rushed that. a box end that is slightly bigger than the post and put that over the connector and hammer on the box end in the middle. you dont hit the post or scratch it or bend it.
Car batteries can be a great danger if you happen to short circuit it! A simple rule is that when you remove the battery, you take the minus first, and when you mount the battery you take the minus last. The battery must also be secured, otherwise the car will not pass safety checks.
I remember that my dad got a used car really cheap because it wouldn't start correctly. Turns out that thightning the battery terminal resolved that problem.
My father once bought a car for $35(about $335 in today's dollars) because the previous owner had rebuilt the engine and it would barely run. He found that the previous owner had forgotten to torque down the rocker arms. Once he did that and adjusted the tappets, the engine ran fine.
I had a friend whose father went to the auction one day. There was a pristine Corvette there and nobody bid on it because the auction house had to push it into position. My friend's dad bought it for something like $100 and swapped in a new battery and it started right up and ran fine.
Little different form cars, but family friend bought electric chain saw used it and presumably bought another one after fist one didnt work and then that didnt work ether after being in winter storage, so she brought both to me and told that i can keep another one if i can fix them both and then she left.. i plug them in and pulled anti-kickback switch back and guess what happened? Well i called her and told her to turn around in end of my drive way :D Her face was pretty hilarious to see when i explained it to her. Told her to give based on her conscience and if she had none, then its 1000€'s. Ended up getting older of the saws as she didnt need two :D There is user manual with these things for a reason. If you cant get it working, might want to look into manual first and then ask someone if they know how to fix it if its actually broken. It probably will be cheaper than buying new one. Also if you have access to waste site or such where people trow these things, might want to keep yours in storage and look if you can find another one for spares. If that has same issue you know buying spare wont solve the issue, then make improved part your self.
Once you’ve cleaned up the posts with a bit of emery cloth, and put on the clamp,...add a good dollop of Vaseline or grease all over the post and clamp to stop any future oxidising. This video is a bit of a turkey !
Yep, he could have bought that stuff and saved on the cleaner tool instead, which is really just added comfort for someone who does battery terminal cleaning a lot. Although if he screwed the terminal clamp itself really tight, it should deform the terminal sufficiently to get rid of at least some of the micro spaces. BTW, this reminds me of the utter madness that is exhaust header heat shield screws.
DO NOT GREASE or OIL battery terminals! Mechanics do this all the time (often charging for the service) and it just shortens the terminal life. First, petroleum products react with lead making that black non-conductive surface AND grease is non-conductive. Second, battery terminals start out as hollow and the connecting pin from the plates is soldered into the terminal on assembly. This results in a porous pathway for battery acid to travel up and into the terminal joint. Corrosion is from the inside out. Sealing the joint with grease just holds the acid in and makes things worse. Clean and dry is the way to go. As the battery ages the corrosion issue becomes worse to the point that it can be the failure point rather than issues with the plates.
2:01 - Oh for god's sake. Of course you use WD-40 on everything. Everyone who likes WD-40 uses it on everything, because they don't actually know what it's for. The WD-40 name derives from "Water Dispersant formula #40" -- it was invented to easily apply a microscopic film of oil to steel parts, to repel water so the steel parts wouldn't rust. The oil content is too minuscule and too thin to be useful for actual lubrication, but it _does_ contaminate everything it touches. If you need a spray that will loosen rusted parts, get a bottle of Liquid Wrench instead -- it's got the same solvents as WD-40 without the oil. Whereas if you need a lubricant, there are hundreds of other options. Leave WD-40 on the store shelf where it belongs. 6:28 - Instead of fouling the wires by spraying WD-40 on them, solder them with a soldering iron and some heavy-duty solder instead. The flux inside the solder will etch the wires to remove any oxidation and the solder will coat the copper to protect it from corrosion in the future. 7:20 - If you're going to go through the trouble to replace the battery connectors because the old ones were corroded, also get a set of those felt-fabric donuts that fit over the battery terminals underneath the connectors; they will soak up any acid that leaks out of the battery in the future, so it doesn't seep along the surface of the battery and corrode everything in sight.
And always disconnect the (-) first! a) less chance for short circuiting if the wrench touches the body or engine by accident, b) with most newer cars removing (+) first will fry a thingy in a generator, c) manufacturer directions or RTFM.
The thin layer of oil is exactly what he was using it for. It removes rust, leaves behind oil to prevent rust. It's not the best penetrating fluid though, but it's great for cleaning. The wires weren't a flawless job but they're good enough, they just had to get the car out the door. The next owner can worry about making it perfect
The felt washers are a fraud. I used to sell car batteries. We took in FAR more bad and failed and or corroded batteries with those washers than without. It was an open joke to the people selling the batteries that we were ensuring another battery sale with every set of washers. And management pushed us to sell the washers, of course. Never use those things. And if somebody tries to sell them to you, ask them if they are trying to ruin your battery or if they are just stupid. Either way, don't use them.
LOL, car battery acid corroding things... takes me back to a friend of mine. He had a customer with an aston martin db7, I think it was, blue/silver. Nice car. Battery in the back, if I recall correctly. I can't remember what it was that went wrong... but his entire compartment was flooded with the stuff. Cleaning that out completely and correctly was a real messed up job. Lots of corrosion, fast.
Good little video. I clean my battery terminals from time to time as well. A good clean. solid battery connection is just as important as 4 good tyres!
@jason9022 Thats dumb. I guess you were taught that in cheap battery terminal cleaning school....lol Most motorheads learn how to work on cars from friends, their father, brother, whatever. Things like battery terminal cleaning isn't rocket science. I was actually taught by my father who was a drag racer at a very high level. I took autoshop throughout highschool. I'm 57, they didn't even have these tools when I was young and learning how to work on engines. Furthermore, I never needed one because I always maintained my cars. Seems like your pretty ridiculous kid.
@jason9022 Now your lying. But lets just say they did and I never saw one even though when I was 16, my dad had 25 cars that actually ran that I got to work on and drive. Where exactly does a guy learn to use these chinese manufactured tools ? Are there directions? Is there a week, day, hor, minute dedicated to this in an auto repair class? I'm actually curious as to where the hell I should, or anyone should glean this information from? I actually can't remember the first one I owned, but the last one I bought I was at autozone and it was in a bin by itself. Super weird thing to comment on at any rate.
This is an amazing concept for a show! I can’t wait for the next episode about engine Maintence. I have been learning to work on my own cars for a few years now but have never taken apart an engine.
These videos are great, cool to see Winston turn wrenches. By the way, maybe try some ratcheting wrenches, they're cheap nowadays and save you time compared to standard wrenches, and they don't get easily lost in the engine bay like sockets do:)
I love old lightweight, back wheel drive sporty cars like this MR2. Also i like this new channel - positive vibes! Winston you explain everything very well! Wonder that this battery still charges full... Good thing is that Californian cars never seen cold and salty roads. But one good thing here in north is that on snow it is very fun to drive, you can drift with low power cars also on low speeds and like this you learn drive. Current WRC Champion is Ott Tänak - from here Estonia, i am very proud :)
Hello from a guy married to a mainland girl! Thanks for the WD40 recommendation. I to am a big fan of WD40. An old 1950's grease monkey gave me a trick to extend the life of my battery and cables. Every few months I clean the terminals of my American registered 2003 Canadian CRV with Coca Cola and a wire brush. I'm sure there are many alternatives but its so easy to reach into the refrigerator and just do it. Keep up the good work!! PS. To the wife, car repairs are something from the dark side of the moon...
Finally someone using WD-40 properly, to remove rust. There are better penetrating oils though, and I was just reading that a 1:1 mix of automatic transmission fluid + acetone is much better than any other penetrating oil. WD-40 will handle most light jobs though, but that battery terminal was right on the edge!
Perfect timing! Really enjoying the automotive videos, guys. Is good to hear someone else that carried a spare battery in the boot/trunk. Any chance that was a VW also?
@@NeverMetTheGuy No problem! I loved that car but it was a wreck and tough to keep going, it was the only one in South Africa. I'll try and find some footage of it at some point and post it on the channel
Snow sucks for car guys! You can't drive your fun cars and the salt on the roads eats up your daily! Buuuuut, if you have a garage, it can be awesome to force you to complete a long project over the winter
@@WorthlessWhips one of my car guys whips is an old ranger 4x4 i bought for my wife to not be so afraid of the snow. didnt get it ready for this year's storms tho. im doing all the driving once again. maybe next year eh? ps, we dont use salt so much here, mostly gravel or sand.
Corrosion happens more often when the charging cycles increase, if you get corrossion quickly after cleaning the terminals it means the battery isn't holding charge and needs to be replaced.
1. Soda Pop on a corroded battery connector works wonders, seriously! 2. Let it sit on there for about 10 minutes 3. Rinse with water. Just make sure the battery water caps are on tight, as soda pop kills battery acid. 4. Repeat Soda Pop as needed until the acid is gone. 5. Use a Battery Terminal Cleaner. 6. Install the battery Terminals. If they are to tight to go on, DON"T use a hammer! If they are to tight use two screw drivers to separate them a little. 7. Spray them with some CRC 05046 Battery Terminal Protector. Done Been working on vehicles for over 35 years, this method works hands down. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
The battery seems to be leaking electrolyte around the terminals. The new terminals will probably corrode fairly quickly. Also hammering on the terminals is a big no no, because it creates cracks in the electrode plates.
Good video. May want to add some anti-corrosion spray on the terminals after replacing and wear eye protection with all that corrosion initially laying around.
Great Video.. as a Automotive Technician myself id suggest making a follow up video of continuity testing your Ground wire and charging wire. and or, Testing the battery performance using a "Toaster Box" IE an CCA tester, then checking Charging voltage.. All basic stuff that is applicable across many makes and models
when ever any of my battery connectors bite the dust, i always replace them with brass, they last tons longer and make a cleaner connection to the electricity. if the battery post is to small, bend a copper penny around it. works excellently on many of my cars for years. baking soda kills battery corrosion. dont cut your wires, they are often just barely long enough as it is when new.
Made in China, cheap. I only buy tools from HF if I know I'll only use them once or possibly a second time in the future if they survive the first use. Wrenches or sockets, forget about it- save your money and invest in better quality.
WD = water dispersing. A battery can be damaged by rattling (much less falling off) around on the tray so it is not an optional maintenance item! An inexpensive little battery terminal (clamp) puller is another nice thing to have in the toolbox for those times a person may be tempted to take a hammer to uncooperative terminal clamps.
I kept an MX6 on the road for 20 years and had it in the shop once to replace the clutch because I didn't have a garage. I've done some work on my truck but have taken it to the shop for a lot of work because I got tired of working on cars. It's expensive and you can essentially pay for some nice tools by doing the work yourself.
An excellent and to the point video. I would offer a few suggestions based on my own experiences/adventures in car repair. Number one-buy the thicker, mechanic's rubber gloves. The cheap latex ones do not hold up. Number two-be careful to clean up any spills of coolant containing ethylene glycol. Animals find the chemical sweet to the tongue and will lick up any spills on the pavement or garage floor. It is quite toxic and leads to a miserable death for any creature who gets enough of it. Number three-check under the battery. Corrosion here is fairly common and needs addressing before you add ventilation to the engine compartment you weren't counting on. And number four- Harbor Freight Tools has cheap, servicable tools and they are nationwide. Amazing change of pace in your videos; from learned, social commentary on matters China to car repair. Good luck, guys.
I work as a mechanic at rental car company and Nissans always have a lot of battery corrosion. So long as it isn't bad enough to warrant replacing something, I just spray it off with a hose and avoid hittiing sensitive electrical areas (works even better if you dry it off with some high pressure air). It's way faster and does a better job. Other guys spend 30 minutes taking everything apart and scrubbing everything down and using special battery corrosion spray and they still miss some.
To truely rescue any battery you should mention the following. You need 2 battery chargers. 1. A heavy duty charger for charging a dead battery you can get a 30amp continuous with 100amp (for about a min) jump start setting for only $60 on Amazon. Higher amperage chargers are not needed but they can charge your battery faster and the higher amperage models can "recondition" the battery if it is not too far gone. 2. The other charger should be a trickle charger that keeps the battery charged when not used for long times. I like Battery Tender brand because it only provides as much power as needed. Really cheap trickle chargers always charge and that is not great for long term storage.
Use baking soda/water mixture to neutralize the battery acid on the terminal and wires after stripping. And do NOT over tighten the battery terminal. It will stretch the soft metal and you'll be back to where you started in a hurry. Personally, I like to tin the newly stripped wires with solder. Separately stranded wires cannot carry as much current as solid does. Also, where can I get a set of those 1930's wrenches?
Best dad 101 advice I ever got, if it moves and it shouldn't use duck tape and that will fix it, if it doesn't move as it should use WD-40. With those to things of advice you can at least get passably by with 80% of the stuff you're expected to know as a man.
@HangGlideTube Can you give me an automotive example? Circuit board components are soldered of course (although automotive grade parts with flexiblly affixed solder tags are a thing). Wire to board or wire to connector, no. It's not about cold solder joints it's about causing stress risers in the wire which will weaken every time the wire flexes. It's not always possible to crimp when making DIY repairs, but be aware of the potential weakness.
That corrosion was so bad I would have been tempted to swap out the wires in case it got up deep inside. I also read somewhere (I think it was the Celica forum I'm part of) that it is often advisable on these old Toyotas to at least replace the grounding strap with something a little thicker.
A good noob tip for negative and positive is if you don't know which is which if the car came without terminals (have had happen before) try to trace one wire in the bundle to the starter, which would be positive, and one wire in the other bundle to the chassis as ground.
I always just use some old light sandpaper I still have laying around or a steel (rough or fine) steelsponge people use to clean pots and pans to remove corrosion from terminals. The tool is nice though, if you have to do it relatively often. Didn't know it existed.
I JUST dropped my 89 MR2's gas tank tonight, I'm afraid of putting it back on. Well well, we will see. Thank god I finally know what a spanner is, I have always wondered what that special tool is.
A lot of the corrosion can be due to acid off gassing by the old battery. I've replaced terminals before only to see more mess accumulate. Replacing the battery solved the problem.
As someone whom car batteries usually hate...hopefully a future video will be tracking down a phantom electrical drain. Bonus points for it being in a 2-door car where the battery is under the rear seat... 🤬
To deal with all the corroded batteries, if you must, take baking soda, mix it up with water into a paste. Apply the paste all over the corroded area especially the terminals. This will counteract the sulfuric acid in batteries. Sulfuric acid is truly dangerous stuff
First thing I do is give it a good rinsing with clear water, that will rinse the acid and at least get rid of most of it. Then let it dry, then go at it with the WD-40.
one big advice in usa check in your state if you must be a dealer to buy sell cars for profit. Some states want just papers, some may say you must have phone line etc. Seems will be good channel
reminds me of when my once HK friend jump-started my Evo 7 GSR with leads the wrong way and melted the terminal... I had to buy a freaking generator and pnumatic air gun just to remove the mega tight nut that held it on (which was partially glued to the housing from the melting)🤦♂️so much hastle for something so insignificant, life can be a surprise at times...
My dad used Coca Cola to neutralize the battery corrosion but like others here baking soda Lol I once broke down with a auction car and used some Tums dissolved in a little bit of water to clean the corrosion off. If you are working on old cars you might want to invest in a pair of battery pliers yes there are such a thing specially made for battery nuts and terminals Battery grease is not bad idea Another thing I saw someone do is use a flat tip screw driver and make a + mark on the positive terminal but new batteries today are usually clearly marked. I used to work at an auto auction and have jumped started a lot of cars and I have seen batteries with the screws like that and lots of other strange things done to them and I have seen batteries overheat and cars damaged because some put the cables on wrong way.
Please don't use open end wrenches for everything you can think of. Those things will eventually strip of every nut and bolt head you try to loosen. Use close end wrenches instead... those will save you a lot of head aches.
You can drown your car in something like wd40. It is called Fluid Film. It is a rust inhibitor. We use it to fight road salt and rust in Michigan. I even use it on my farm equipment and ATVs.
The best way to clean battery terminals/connectors/ANY battery corrosion is by filling a cup with water, and simply pouring baking soda into the water, and using something like a toothbrush to scrub away at the corrosion with the baking soda water, it chemically breaks down the corrosion, whereas WD40 doesn't.
I'm so happy we don't have Japan's ShyaKen (yearly car te$t) in the USA. Did u guys buy the cheap WalMart TC-W3..? Oh, and sign up for Pick-N-Pull's ToolKit rewards program so they email u on tire sale days, 1/2 off all parts days. 4 days ago I picked up four 225/45/R17's for FORTY bucks..! A little used, but still quite a buy.
I used a 1" wide orange webbing tie down to keep the battery attached to the car. the battery hold down having long since rotted away I'm floating at about $100 per month including everything. Then replace them once in a while. Terminal connectors too. right
![BABYMONSTER - 'DRIP' M/V REACTION [WAS NOT EXPECTING THIS!!!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t0Lpgr1jo3Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Patreons vote on the cars to buy for future episodes - www.patreon.com/worthlesswhips
Or support us here - paypal.me/worthlesswhips
My 1st car - very used 1954 Plymouth and couldn't live without WD40 and duct tape. Yes I know I'm old but still young mind and love this new channel 💯%👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏😉 ps how about an old Nova if any still around.
I love you guys! Subbed to all your channels. Keep the great info coming. Love from Amsterdam!
@@radiotriggered2096 Hello Amsterdam 👍
Do you have an email address I can reach you on concerning this type of old cars? If they are allowed into china, I see opportunities.
@@thinkabout602 Hello, thinkabout :-)
This Episode is brought to you by the letters "W" "D" & the number "40"
It almost got used on Starship. Amazing stuff, really.
@SkeletonSyskey Can you tell me how to get.... how to get to Sesame Street? 🤣🤣🤣
Um? GPS?
"Makes for an excellent flamethrower."
--G. I. Joe
For cleaning of grease an grime anywhere on the car, don't use anything other than break cleaner. It evaporates real quick and really cleans good. It is cheap too. I have a "suede" coat. You know... the light beige thick coat with the sheep wool on the inside. Was in the garage of a friend of mine once. He was working on a CV joint of some car. Of course BLACK thick grease on the damn thing. And me being me I didn't use the eyes that I am supposed to use when stumbling through life, so I ended up walking into the thing with my shoulder. Totally black. Wiping only made it worse.
He was laughing. I was really upset. Came up to me with a can break cleaner, sprayed it on, wiped it clean in a minute. Soaked it. Used some paper towels to clean again and just washed it in the machine. Came out new.
So for grease cleaning, I would get boxes of those cans. Really cheap. Really useful. For rust removal there are plenty of liquids... but WD40 often does the trick and often is on hand since everyone has got that stuff.
On some milling/iron smith/tool restoration channel I also saw some stuff being used... dunno what the name was. But it is liquid rust remover. Just put the part in, totally rusted, and it comes out clean enough to be able to lightly brush and reuse. I can imagine that stuff would work wonders on stuck bolts too, if sprayed.
I use a baking soda-water mixture to neutralize the battery acid, and at the same time give the whole battery a good scrub. If it's unclean it can (very slightly) leak current. You can test for this with a multimeter if you place it on the top cover of the battery. And its also much more easygoing to handle the battery when it's not corrosive all over.
I was going to post the same advice.
You have to be careful that the baking soda doesn't get into the battery.
Probably should have power wash the engine bay on low setting.
Be careful with baking soda, tried that in my old car and the soda/acid corrosion ended up stripping paint near the battery.
@@snowleopard9749 that was the acid, not the baking soda. Baking soda is a base.
@@tony_25or6to4 Yes, and when you mix them together, the result is still something corrosive.
@@snowleopard9749 baking soda can be corrosive because it has sodium, but that takes longer. The foaming is from the baking soda neutralizing the acid from the battery. Like when you mix it with vinegar.
Excellent advice. My Bronco wouldn't start. Mechanic said, "Replace the wiring harness." Took it to my buddy. He replaced the battery terminal connectors, cleaned the terminals, replaced the ends of the wires, and voila! No more problems. Also, saved the cost of a new battery, which runs $80 to $100. PS he loves WD-40 also. GMTA
On my old J-10 I started losing headlights and certain other electrical stuff. Was also hard to start making me think a bad ignition switch. Turned out not a battery, not a switch, not a wiring harness, but a loose bolt through the firewall holding the interior fuse box to the wiring harness box. In my area it is also hotter than hell oftentimes, so the weather seal had also softened and sagged into the terminal box on the firewall. That truck took a real beating and rarely was on a real road. But always a good idea to start with the cheap solutions first!
Great video guys. This is great timing. I just had to disconnect the battery on my Honda Accord (2005) because my brake lights were staying permanently on. I've just got replace this little plastic switch on my brake pedal, but I needed to unhook the battery until I have the replace part.
Hondas and Acuras are also famous for the morning dead battery syndrome caused by cheap relays and blue tooth modules. It all starts with a barely noticeable parasitic drain to ground when the relays do not open after they are signaled to turn off (like the AC clutch relay), or a thin little trace on a pc board finally breaks and makes the bluetooth module into a little heater even when the car is shut off.
If you have ever witnessed a car battery explode while someone tapped on the terminal, you wouldn't be tapping on those with a hammer. A weak cracked buss internally attached to that terminal makes a spark in there, suddenly its very loud and violent.
i thought everyone liked exploding acid bombs.
I know a backyard mechanic that was refilling the electrolyte on a car battery while it was running and he was smoking and he ended up severely scarring his face, not pretty
Yeah dont tap on battery posts at best you may break the post.. Use a pipe wrench to get stuck ones off and get a terminal spreader if the terminal wont go down on the post.
i usually use the box end of a wrench/spanner so i hit only the tool and not the post across the top so the connector goes on evenly.
edit, sorry, rushed that. a box end that is slightly bigger than the post and put that over the connector and hammer on the box end in the middle. you dont hit the post or scratch it or bend it.
I was thinking the same thing, not the best idea be banging on an old battery.
Winston says: Do not lick nuts, they taste sour.
Franky says: Relax!
Car batteries can be a great danger if you happen to short circuit it!
A simple rule is that when you remove the battery, you take the minus first, and when you mount the battery you take the minus last.
The battery must also be secured, otherwise the car will not pass safety checks.
You can also clean the battery itself, outside of the car with hot water.
I remember that my dad got a used car really cheap because it wouldn't start correctly. Turns out that thightning the battery terminal resolved that problem.
My father once bought a car for $35(about $335 in today's dollars) because the previous owner had rebuilt the engine and it would barely run. He found that the previous owner had forgotten to torque down the rocker arms. Once he did that and adjusted the tappets, the engine ran fine.
I had a friend whose father went to the auction one day. There was a pristine Corvette there and nobody bid on it because the auction house had to push it into position. My friend's dad bought it for something like $100 and swapped in a new battery and it started right up and ran fine.
Little different form cars, but family friend bought electric chain saw used it and presumably bought another one after fist one didnt work and then that didnt work ether after being in winter storage, so she brought both to me and told that i can keep another one if i can fix them both and then she left.. i plug them in and pulled anti-kickback switch back and guess what happened? Well i called her and told her to turn around in end of my drive way :D Her face was pretty hilarious to see when i explained it to her. Told her to give based on her conscience and if she had none, then its 1000€'s. Ended up getting older of the saws as she didnt need two :D
There is user manual with these things for a reason. If you cant get it working, might want to look into manual first and then ask someone if they know how to fix it if its actually broken. It probably will be cheaper than buying new one. Also if you have access to waste site or such where people trow these things, might want to keep yours in storage and look if you can find another one for spares. If that has same issue you know buying spare wont solve the issue, then make improved part your self.
Dielectric grease helps a lot. Also those clamp terminals are a temporary fix. The next owner will be dealing with these again in a year or so.
he's kinda cheese dicking it! Better to break out the soldering iron and re-tin the frayed ends and sold on a proper terminal connector.
Once you’ve cleaned up the posts with a bit of emery cloth, and put on the clamp,...add a good dollop of Vaseline or grease all over the post and clamp to stop any future oxidising. This video is a bit of a turkey !
Yep, he could have bought that stuff and saved on the cleaner tool instead, which is really just added comfort for someone who does battery terminal cleaning a lot.
Although if he screwed the terminal clamp itself really tight, it should deform the terminal sufficiently to get rid of at least some of the micro spaces.
BTW, this reminds me of the utter madness that is exhaust header heat shield screws.
I would just like to say that I really enjoy the New Car videos and I'm excited learn more from them.
Great job boys, can’t wait for more! Love from Australia 🇦🇺
DO NOT GREASE or OIL battery terminals! Mechanics do this all the time (often charging for the service) and it just shortens the terminal life. First, petroleum products react with lead making that black non-conductive surface AND grease is non-conductive. Second, battery terminals start out as hollow and the connecting pin from the plates is soldered into the terminal on assembly. This results in a porous pathway for battery acid to travel up and into the terminal joint. Corrosion is from the inside out. Sealing the joint with grease just holds the acid in and makes things worse. Clean and dry is the way to go. As the battery ages the corrosion issue becomes worse to the point that it can be the failure point rather than issues with the plates.
2:01 - Oh for god's sake. Of course you use WD-40 on everything. Everyone who likes WD-40 uses it on everything, because they don't actually know what it's for. The WD-40 name derives from "Water Dispersant formula #40" -- it was invented to easily apply a microscopic film of oil to steel parts, to repel water so the steel parts wouldn't rust. The oil content is too minuscule and too thin to be useful for actual lubrication, but it _does_ contaminate everything it touches. If you need a spray that will loosen rusted parts, get a bottle of Liquid Wrench instead -- it's got the same solvents as WD-40 without the oil. Whereas if you need a lubricant, there are hundreds of other options. Leave WD-40 on the store shelf where it belongs.
6:28 - Instead of fouling the wires by spraying WD-40 on them, solder them with a soldering iron and some heavy-duty solder instead. The flux inside the solder will etch the wires to remove any oxidation and the solder will coat the copper to protect it from corrosion in the future.
7:20 - If you're going to go through the trouble to replace the battery connectors because the old ones were corroded, also get a set of those felt-fabric donuts that fit over the battery terminals underneath the connectors; they will soak up any acid that leaks out of the battery in the future, so it doesn't seep along the surface of the battery and corrode everything in sight.
And always disconnect the (-) first!
a) less chance for short circuiting if the wrench touches the body or engine by accident,
b) with most newer cars removing (+) first will fry a thingy in a generator,
c) manufacturer directions or RTFM.
He was mostly using it to prevent rust and corrosion so that's exactly what you said it was designed for.
The thin layer of oil is exactly what he was using it for. It removes rust, leaves behind oil to prevent rust.
It's not the best penetrating fluid though, but it's great for cleaning.
The wires weren't a flawless job but they're good enough, they just had to get the car out the door. The next owner can worry about making it perfect
The felt washers are a fraud. I used to sell car batteries. We took in FAR more bad and failed and or corroded batteries with those washers than without. It was an open joke to the people selling the batteries that we were ensuring another battery sale with every set of washers. And management pushed us to sell the washers, of course. Never use those things. And if somebody tries to sell them to you, ask them if they are trying to ruin your battery or if they are just stupid. Either way, don't use them.
LOL, car battery acid corroding things... takes me back to a friend of mine. He had a customer with an aston martin db7, I think it was, blue/silver. Nice car. Battery in the back, if I recall correctly. I can't remember what it was that went wrong... but his entire compartment was flooded with the stuff. Cleaning that out completely and correctly was a real messed up job. Lots of corrosion, fast.
I had to learn DIY auto work the hard way but it was very rewarding. A simple terminal swap does wonders.
Crazy how many problems can be solved with this.
Good little video. I clean my battery terminals from time to time as well. A good clean. solid battery connection is just as important as 4 good tyres!
smal hint: Did you know that in this battery terminal cleaning tool, there is hidden brush to clean inside of connector?
Right? haha its funny, when I found that out on my own years ago.. I was like Wow, hidden treasure!
@@fastj1962 me too. I found it 2 years after purchase of the tool:)
@jason9022 Thats dumb. I guess you were taught that in cheap battery terminal cleaning school....lol Most motorheads learn how to work on cars from friends, their father, brother, whatever. Things like battery terminal cleaning isn't rocket science. I was actually taught by my father who was a drag racer at a very high level. I took autoshop throughout highschool. I'm 57, they didn't even have these tools when I was young and learning how to work on engines. Furthermore, I never needed one because I always maintained my cars. Seems like your pretty ridiculous kid.
@jason9022 I will take in to consideration your wisdom...
@jason9022 Now your lying. But lets just say they did and I never saw one even though when I was 16, my dad had 25 cars that actually ran that I got to work on and drive. Where exactly does a guy learn to use these chinese manufactured tools ? Are there directions? Is there a week, day, hor, minute dedicated to this in an auto repair class? I'm actually curious as to where the hell I should, or anyone should glean this information from?
I actually can't remember the first one I owned, but the last one I bought I was at autozone and it was in a bin by itself. Super weird thing to comment on at any rate.
Love the new show! Reminds of Wheeler Dealers and I've watched every episode, some two or three times. Keep up the great work!
After finishing battery work, use spray connections with clear lacquer spray paint will help prevent future corrosion.
I hope this channel is as successful as your other ones. Good luck on your new venture guys.
Great video...so dynamic..perfect edition..
YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME 👌👌👌👌
Absolutely loving this channel so far. Might be my favourite car channel on TH-cam
I'm not really into cars but you guys make it so fun to watch! Plus I like to contribute to the 4000 hours watch time, keep it up!
I love this video guys, thanks for starting this new channel - I was always interested in how you two worked on bikes and cars and now I can learn! :D
This is an amazing concept for a show! I can’t wait for the next episode about engine Maintence. I have been learning to work on my own cars for a few years now but have never taken apart an engine.
These videos are great, cool to see Winston turn wrenches. By the way, maybe try some ratcheting wrenches, they're cheap nowadays and save you time compared to standard wrenches, and they don't get easily lost in the engine bay like sockets do:)
Put felt pads under the battery to absorb acid. You can buy these for like $1 at any auto parts store.
The editing on your new channel has gone up a notch. Excellent work!
I love old lightweight, back wheel drive sporty cars like this MR2. Also i like this new channel - positive vibes! Winston you explain everything very well!
Wonder that this battery still charges full...
Good thing is that Californian cars never seen cold and salty roads. But one good thing here in north is that on snow it is very fun to drive, you can drift with low power cars also on low speeds and like this you learn drive.
Current WRC Champion is Ott Tänak - from here Estonia, i am very proud :)
Absolutely great content! I'm happy to see you guys thriving anywhere you go. Both if you are an inspiration!
Hello from a guy married to a mainland girl! Thanks for the WD40 recommendation. I to am a big fan of WD40. An old 1950's grease monkey gave me a trick to extend the life of my battery and cables. Every few months I clean the terminals of my American registered 2003 Canadian CRV with Coca Cola and a wire brush. I'm sure there are many alternatives but its so easy to reach into the refrigerator and just do it. Keep up the good work!! PS. To the wife, car repairs are something from the dark side of the moon...
Finally someone using WD-40 properly, to remove rust.
There are better penetrating oils though, and I was just reading that a 1:1 mix of automatic transmission fluid + acetone is much better than any other penetrating oil.
WD-40 will handle most light jobs though, but that battery terminal was right on the edge!
Perfect timing! Really enjoying the automotive videos, guys.
Is good to hear someone else that carried a spare battery in the boot/trunk. Any chance that was a VW also?
Haha, no a 1966 GTO
Oh, that's fantastic. Totally worth it. Thanks for answering that.
@@NeverMetTheGuy No problem! I loved that car but it was a wreck and tough to keep going, it was the only one in South Africa. I'll try and find some footage of it at some point and post it on the channel
@@WorthlessWhips '66 GTO is my daughter's dream car... cool looking and easy to work on (she works on her own cars-- like father, like daughter
This is making me motivated to work on long overdue car repairs. Though at the moment there is to much snow and I don't have a garage to work in.
Snow sucks for car guys! You can't drive your fun cars and the salt on the roads eats up your daily! Buuuuut, if you have a garage, it can be awesome to force you to complete a long project over the winter
@@WorthlessWhips one of my car guys whips is an old ranger 4x4 i bought for my wife to not be so afraid of the snow. didnt get it ready for this year's storms tho. im doing all the driving once again. maybe next year eh?
ps, we dont use salt so much here, mostly gravel or sand.
Corrosion happens more often when the charging cycles increase, if you get corrossion quickly after cleaning the terminals it means the battery isn't holding charge and needs to be replaced.
wow, even i understood what this is about ! nice
1. Soda Pop on a corroded battery connector works wonders, seriously!
2. Let it sit on there for about 10 minutes
3. Rinse with water. Just make sure the battery water caps are on tight, as soda pop kills battery acid.
4. Repeat Soda Pop as needed until the acid is gone.
5. Use a Battery Terminal Cleaner.
6. Install the battery Terminals. If they are to tight to go on, DON"T use a hammer! If they are to tight use two screw drivers to separate them a little.
7. Spray them with some CRC 05046 Battery Terminal Protector. Done
Been working on vehicles for over 35 years, this method works hands down. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
The battery seems to be leaking electrolyte around the terminals. The new terminals will probably corrode fairly quickly. Also hammering on the terminals is a big no no, because it creates cracks in the electrode plates.
It was just a little tap.
Another fantastic video keep up the great work.
Good video. May want to add some anti-corrosion spray on the terminals after replacing and wear eye protection with all that corrosion initially laying around.
Great Video.. as a Automotive Technician myself id suggest making a follow up video of continuity testing your Ground wire and charging wire. and or, Testing the battery performance using a "Toaster Box" IE an CCA tester, then checking Charging voltage.. All basic stuff that is applicable across many makes and models
I keep rewatching every video on this channel everyday. I need more.
Soon! Tomorrow or Wednesday latest
Worthless Whips when?
Vincetas Jeronimas Kuliešius I am sadden that they haven’t released anything yet
Nice advice for all cars. You saved my client over $300 on her Quattroporte. Thanks guys.
when ever any of my battery connectors bite the dust, i always replace them with brass, they last tons longer and make a cleaner connection to the electricity.
if the battery post is to small, bend a copper penny around it. works excellently on many of my cars for years.
baking soda kills battery corrosion. dont cut your wires, they are often just barely long enough as it is when new.
Pretty trivial to splice some extra wire to it, of the same gauge, with some solder and some shrink tubing
@@xenoneuronics6765 that sounds a lot more effort than just putting baking soda then water on it.
I know Harbor Freight tools when I see em. I have em too. Be careful, they break easy.
Keeping things on the cheap side.
Made in China, cheap. I only buy tools from HF if I know I'll only use them once or possibly a second time in the future if they survive the first use. Wrenches or sockets, forget about it- save your money and invest in better quality.
Very cool video and channel, guys. Thanks for all your work.
WD = water dispersing. A battery can be damaged by rattling (much less falling off) around on the tray so it is not an optional maintenance item! An inexpensive little battery terminal (clamp) puller is another nice thing to have in the toolbox for those times a person may be tempted to take a hammer to uncooperative terminal clamps.
I kept an MX6 on the road for 20 years and had it in the shop once to replace the clutch because I didn't have a garage. I've done some work on my truck but have taken it to the shop for a lot of work because I got tired of working on cars. It's expensive and you can essentially pay for some nice tools by doing the work yourself.
Nice! You look dope as Batou-san driving that whip! Love the new Channel! 😁👍 😎
An excellent and to the point video. I would offer a few suggestions based on my own experiences/adventures in car repair. Number one-buy the thicker, mechanic's rubber gloves. The cheap latex ones do not hold up. Number two-be careful to clean up any spills of coolant containing ethylene glycol. Animals find the chemical sweet to the tongue and will lick up any spills on the pavement or garage floor. It is quite toxic and leads to a miserable death for any creature who gets enough of it. Number three-check under the battery. Corrosion here is fairly common and needs addressing before you add ventilation to the engine compartment you weren't counting on. And number four- Harbor Freight Tools has cheap, servicable tools and they are nationwide. Amazing change of pace in your videos; from learned, social commentary on matters China to car repair. Good luck, guys.
I work as a mechanic at rental car company and Nissans always have a lot of battery corrosion. So long as it isn't bad enough to warrant replacing something, I just spray it off with a hose and avoid hittiing sensitive electrical areas (works even better if you dry it off with some high pressure air).
It's way faster and does a better job. Other guys spend 30 minutes taking everything apart and scrubbing everything down and using special battery corrosion spray and they still miss some.
To truely rescue any battery you should mention the following. You need 2 battery chargers. 1. A heavy duty charger for charging a dead battery you can get a 30amp continuous with 100amp (for about a min) jump start setting for only $60 on Amazon. Higher amperage chargers are not needed but they can charge your battery faster and the higher amperage models can "recondition" the battery if it is not too far gone. 2. The other charger should be a trickle charger that keeps the battery charged when not used for long times. I like Battery Tender brand because it only provides as much power as needed. Really cheap trickle chargers always charge and that is not great for long term storage.
I love baking soda and water. Works fantastic and cheap
Great episode guys
Use baking soda/water mixture to neutralize the battery acid on the terminal and wires after stripping. And do NOT over tighten the battery terminal. It will stretch the soft metal and you'll be back to where you started in a hurry. Personally, I like to tin the newly stripped wires with solder. Separately stranded wires cannot carry as much current as solid does. Also, where can I get a set of those 1930's wrenches?
Good solid advice for a show car, but not a worthless whip ;)
Best dad 101 advice I ever got, if it moves and it shouldn't use duck tape and that will fix it, if it doesn't move as it should use WD-40. With those to things of advice you can at least get passably by with 80% of the stuff you're expected to know as a man.
Wait, I didn't know you guys have a car channel, cool.
Car electrics tip I leaned the hard way. Clamp or crimp wires. Solder makes a brittle connection that brakes from vibration.
@HangGlideTube Can you give me an automotive example? Circuit board components are soldered of course (although automotive grade parts with flexiblly affixed solder tags are a thing). Wire to board or wire to connector, no. It's not about cold solder joints it's about causing stress risers in the wire which will weaken every time the wire flexes. It's not always possible to crimp when making DIY repairs, but be aware of the potential weakness.
Congrats on the new channel! I love it so far!!!
"Don't taste it because it's very acidic and sour." - Someone who must know by experience I presume 🤣
This makes me miss working on my car.
That corrosion was so bad I would have been tempted to swap out the wires in case it got up deep inside. I also read somewhere (I think it was the Celica forum I'm part of) that it is often advisable on these old Toyotas to at least replace the grounding strap with something a little thicker.
A good noob tip for negative and positive is if you don't know which is which if the car came without terminals (have had happen before) try to trace one wire in the bundle to the starter, which would be positive, and one wire in the other bundle to the chassis as ground.
I always just use some old light sandpaper I still have laying around or a steel (rough or fine) steelsponge people use to clean pots and pans to remove corrosion from terminals. The tool is nice though, if you have to do it relatively often. Didn't know it existed.
I JUST dropped my 89 MR2's gas tank tonight, I'm afraid of putting it back on. Well well, we will see. Thank god I finally know what a spanner is, I have always wondered what that special tool is.
There is a terminal spreader tool. It helps you avoid hammering down on the battery post.
A lot of the corrosion can be due to acid off gassing by the old battery. I've replaced terminals before only to see more mess accumulate. Replacing the battery solved the problem.
some lubrication oil blast lot cheaper then wd4
Love rhe show
Nice video bro. Would love to know the proper way to clean the engine bay without damaging the electronics
As someone whom car batteries usually hate...hopefully a future video will be tracking down a phantom electrical drain. Bonus points for it being in a 2-door car where the battery is under the rear seat... 🤬
I can certainly oblige
Take a shot every time Winston says wd40. haha
To deal with all the corroded batteries, if you must, take baking soda, mix it up with water into a paste. Apply the paste all over the corroded area especially the terminals. This will counteract the sulfuric acid in batteries. Sulfuric acid is truly dangerous stuff
I love W 40 that stuff is freaking awesome it is great on anything I think we would sprayed on a cereal and eat it if we could
First thing I do is give it a good rinsing with clear water, that will rinse the acid and at least get rid of most of it. Then let it dry, then go at it with the WD-40.
one big advice in usa check in your state if you must be a dealer to buy sell cars for profit. Some states want just papers, some may say you must have phone line etc. Seems will be good channel
Nesakyk nesamoniu
reminds me of when my once HK friend jump-started my Evo 7 GSR with leads the wrong way and melted the terminal... I had to buy a freaking generator and pnumatic air gun just to remove the mega tight nut that held it on (which was partially glued to the housing from the melting)🤦♂️so much hastle for something so insignificant, life can be a surprise at times...
You only need a lemon to clean the terminals and you will need a base to hold the battery, also I recommend safe the positive terminal
Ah yes, AutoReillys. I see you sprung for the AC Delco instead of the Durastart
My dad used Coca Cola to neutralize the battery corrosion but like others here baking soda
Lol I once broke down with a auction car and used some Tums dissolved in a little bit of water to clean the corrosion off.
If you are working on old cars you might want to invest in a pair of battery pliers yes there are such a thing specially made for battery nuts and terminals
Battery grease is not bad idea
Another thing I saw someone do is use a flat tip screw driver and make a + mark on the positive terminal but new batteries today are usually clearly marked.
I used to work at an auto auction and have jumped started a lot of cars and I have seen batteries with the screws like that and lots of other strange things done to them and I have seen batteries overheat and cars damaged because some put the cables on wrong way.
Please don't use open end wrenches for everything you can think of. Those things will eventually strip of every nut and bolt head you try to loosen. Use close end wrenches instead... those will save you a lot of head aches.
you can add solder with flux on it on that wires. solder them and then put them into terminal. this way, they will not corrode.
You can drown your car in something like wd40. It is called Fluid Film. It is a rust inhibitor. We use it to fight road salt and rust in Michigan. I even use it on my farm equipment and ATVs.
My step one is to always pour boiling water over the terminals; that will clean the corrosion off instantly.
the military style battery connectors are the best. the clamp on style will rot out pretty quick
Should be a The Sisters of mercy music video
The best way to clean battery terminals/connectors/ANY battery corrosion is by filling a cup with water, and simply pouring baking soda into the water, and using something like a toothbrush to scrub away at the corrosion with the baking soda water, it chemically breaks down the corrosion, whereas WD40 doesn't.
Damnit Winston you weren't supposed to taste the battery nuts!
Solid Info, Thank You.
My Missus takes the piss out of my love of WD40 , but seriously, it's saved my arse a so many times.
I'm so happy we don't have Japan's ShyaKen (yearly car te$t) in the USA. Did u guys buy the cheap WalMart TC-W3..? Oh, and sign up for Pick-N-Pull's ToolKit rewards program so they email u on tire sale days, 1/2 off all parts days. 4 days ago I picked up four 225/45/R17's for FORTY bucks..! A little used, but still quite a buy.
Pour hot water over the terminals to get rid of the corrosion
I used that same terminal connector on my T100 and the red paint had to be scraped off before the truck would start
Also worth throwing on a smart battery charger that has a de-sulfating mode.
Here supporting the new hobbie 🍺
WD 40 a great aid to damp morning starts, but don't inhale those mineral salts. BTW how did you secure the battery? Thanks!
Always nice to see this sort of work.. btw, the spanned kinda short.. 😝
I used a 1" wide orange webbing tie down to keep the battery attached to the car. the battery hold down having long since rotted away I'm floating at about $100 per month including everything. Then replace them once in a while. Terminal connectors too. right
"Don't taste the nut, it's sour"
-SerpentZA
In light if this weird corona virus, please find a toyota corona to build.
My back hurts just by watching this :P They should make WD40 baking oil