Redmayne Head Cutter, Tom Mahon talks about a customers bespoke trousers cut in a vintage style compared to the Redmayne Suit copy version. It's something special to behold!
Haven't seen trousers like that for years. I always used to call them "Uncle" trousers when I was young back in the 1960's. A lot of older men in those days were what I would sympathetically call portly, but this sort of trouser suited them perfectly. Now you have shown us the pair you have made, they will almost certainly come back into fashion!
Tom's testament on the client's trousers put a smile on my face. Though being a youngster, I detest the skinny skimpy low rise trousers often seen these days. I look for a proper high rise 12in minimum, fuller legs 9inch opening minimum, full deep pleats, looser waist and cut for braces. Finally, that amount of handwork in the "template" pair is amazing!
*I MAKE HISTORICAL SUITS* and I usually have a 12" to 13" rise on them - and I have to say people - STOP wearing low waist trousers and stop wearing belts High rise, fishtail back with braces - when you bend forward the trouser has to ROTATE around your bum and pelvic, if you have a belt on you are wrenching them up at the back - high rise and braces are WAY more comfortable - you wont go back, I promise you. EDIT - I do use an overlocker - but its a 100 year old Singer 81-3
Well, I did go back myself. Have a handful of really high rise pairs and while they do sit better and all that, the braces make them less practical. Aside from going to toilet, in situations like wearing them with knitwear and not a shirt. I'm now at medium rise - higher than stores for sure, but not the 1930s high and I can wear those without braces or belts.
@@basil_jackson - Not go back to low rise "store" is what I mean - yeah knitwear is a pain I have to admit. But I wear 1900 to 1930's suits every day so i just accept it as part of life now...
@@plpoots HAHHAHAHA. I have winter and summer back patterns, the fishtail at the back is about 6" above the already high waist band at the back - so keep me nice and warm :-D
Just discovered your channel. Although I will never be able to afford a nice suit like the ones you produce I find it fascinating to watch you at your craft. You are a true craftsman. And I love the way you share your knowledge. Thank you.
I have a few pairs of higher rise, pleated trousers. They're not bespoke, of course, but it gives a very different look. You get that clean, long leg line out of it and it is very comfortable.
The weather in Boston next week is cloudy, chance of rain and in the low 50's. Just like if you were at home Mr. Mahon. Hope the trip is enjoyable & profitable for you.
I'm looking for that first one as well! Got a couple hand-me-downs from my grandparent. Love them long-rise (was having trouble describing them to tailors because I said high-waisted) and detailed sewing. Always flattering to wear too! And best of all, no need for a belt. Anyway, I also thought they were roughly-made before I was told that that's how hand-sewed clothes were made which made sense because they still hold up after 30+ years. I don't trust myself on that though, so I actually do the overlocking stitch by hand to my projects. Bold of you to assume people don't want these anymore. Instead, I believe they're just not made anymore.
Did a little research. Apparently, the maker of this pair of trousers was the son of Bernard Weatherhill's cutter in NYC, back when the house had an outpost in that city. So there is still that Savile Row connection.
How is hand stitch better than overlock? Genuine question. I don't have an overlock and as I mostly work with coats don't feel the need to get one, but for occasional trousers is there really a benefit to hand sewn edges?
Much more give on the inlays [ the spare fabric]. When you are making bespoke trousers and coats you are doing a lot of stretching and shrinking and working with very generous inlays [you probably know this but Im explaining for others who may read it]. The seat seal inlay needs a LOT of stretching to get it to fold back and lie flat, its very rare that I can achieve this with an overlocked edge. I either have to knick the overlocking to release the tension of trim the inlay off.
Had to smile at the “nobody’s going to order trousers like this” I fancy a pair in grey flannel…. Let’s see how my Boston visit goes
Haven't seen trousers like that for years. I always used to call them "Uncle" trousers when I was young back in the 1960's. A lot of older men in those days were what I would sympathetically call portly, but this sort of trouser suited them perfectly. Now you have shown us the pair you have made, they will almost certainly come back into fashion!
Tom's testament on the client's trousers put a smile on my face.
Though being a youngster, I detest the skinny skimpy low rise trousers often seen these days.
I look for a proper high rise 12in minimum, fuller legs 9inch opening minimum, full deep pleats, looser waist and cut for braces.
Finally, that amount of handwork in the "template" pair is amazing!
*I MAKE HISTORICAL SUITS* and I usually have a 12" to 13" rise on them - and I have to say people - STOP wearing low waist trousers and stop wearing belts
High rise, fishtail back with braces - when you bend forward the trouser has to ROTATE around your bum and pelvic, if you have a belt on you are wrenching them up at the back - high rise and braces are WAY more comfortable - you wont go back, I promise you. EDIT - I do use an overlocker - but its a 100 year old Singer 81-3
Well, I did go back myself. Have a handful of really high rise pairs and while they do sit better and all that, the braces make them less practical. Aside from going to toilet, in situations like wearing them with knitwear and not a shirt. I'm now at medium rise - higher than stores for sure, but not the 1930s high and I can wear those without braces or belts.
@@basil_jackson - Not go back to low rise "store" is what I mean - yeah knitwear is a pain I have to admit. But I wear 1900 to 1930's suits every day so i just accept it as part of life now...
I love a high rise. Sometimes going even 14 inch. My favourite response/comment was one of my friends asking, “What chest are those trousers?”
@@plpoots HAHHAHAHA. I have winter and summer back patterns, the fishtail at the back is about 6" above the already high waist band at the back - so keep me nice and warm :-D
Just discovered your channel. Although I will never be able to afford a nice suit like the ones you produce I find it fascinating to watch you at your craft. You are a true craftsman. And I love the way you share your knowledge. Thank you.
I have a few pairs of higher rise, pleated trousers. They're not bespoke, of course, but it gives a very different look. You get that clean, long leg line out of it and it is very comfortable.
Hand felling is a genuine old fashioned skill. I had hand felled turn ups!
Brilliant video!
They're gorgeous.
The weather in Boston next week is cloudy, chance of rain and in the low 50's. Just like if you were at home Mr. Mahon. Hope the trip is enjoyable & profitable for you.
Those trousers! Boy, loved the generous and elegant look. Fish tails and buttons on the outside is o.k by me! So, you do a MTM ranges....Mmmmm
I'm looking for that first one as well! Got a couple hand-me-downs from my grandparent. Love them long-rise (was having trouble describing them to tailors because I said high-waisted) and detailed sewing. Always flattering to wear too! And best of all, no need for a belt. Anyway, I also thought they were roughly-made before I was told that that's how hand-sewed clothes were made which made sense because they still hold up after 30+ years. I don't trust myself on that though, so I actually do the overlocking stitch by hand to my projects. Bold of you to assume people don't want these anymore. Instead, I believe they're just not made anymore.
A very fair point. Thanks for watching. Best, Tom.
Would be great if you came to Germany. We can only get Italian-styled suits, hard to get British styles short of booking a flight.
I have a pair of trousers by Redmayne and they are lovely.
very interesting and educational video
Did a little research. Apparently, the maker of this pair of trousers was the son of Bernard Weatherhill's cutter in NYC, back when the house had an outpost in that city. So there is still that Savile Row connection.
Thank you for doing the digging. My very best, Tom.
Look forward to seeing you in Atlanta.
So fucking wholesome I could cry
It is brilliant 🙂
Would love to see the customer wearing them, I bet he's going to love them
Thank you so much for sharing!!! This is video is incredible.
Who is playing in the background?!
Cavalry twill?
How is hand stitch better than overlock? Genuine question. I don't have an overlock and as I mostly work with coats don't feel the need to get one, but for occasional trousers is there really a benefit to hand sewn edges?
Much more give on the inlays [ the spare fabric]. When you are making bespoke trousers and coats you are doing a lot of stretching and shrinking and working with very generous inlays [you probably know this but Im explaining for others who may read it]. The seat seal inlay needs a LOT of stretching to get it to fold back and lie flat, its very rare that I can achieve this with an overlocked edge.
I either have to knick the overlocking to release the tension of trim the inlay off.
It demonstrates skill and craft. The difference between ready made and bespoke.
@@piccalillipit9211 agree with you on every point.
@@mikewinston8709 - OH thank you - Im just making a pair of linen trousers, no way in hell Ill get that inlay to lie flat if I overlock it.
again, awesome insight into the bespoke business.