Cheers Paul. This video has given me some great ideas about improving the lubrication on the 1942 Colchester Master that I've been restoring. Thanks Neil (Newport Gwent)
Hi, I think that may of been on th 50s models. My old girl is the Mk1 early gearhead. It has lube cups on the lead screw and other areas which are at 45 degrees. Using your method will allow me to position the caps vertically allowing me to fill the cap without it running over the edge. Cheers Neil
I have always contemplated replacing the button oiler on my shaper (ram ways) with a reservoir oiler and you have given me just the right inspiration. Thank you for showing.
@@Thesheddweller I will have to consider this as the oilers on my lathe are pretty naff - no balls in the ones on the saddle - just holes with loose brass 'plugs' in ! It's how we got it. However, I'm still working on electrical issues - in my efforts to get the machines out of retirement ! (Machining by Mike)
Hi Paul, I have the same milling machine and the same issues. In the eighties I worked for a packaging company in the engineering workshop and we had a special push type oil can that was specially suited to the ball closing type oiling ports. I haven't seen one since and even a decent oil can these days seems difficult to find. Your modifications have given me an idea to update my milling machine and trusty old DSG. Great videos and commentary. Russell O''Neill, Cape Town.
Hi Russelloneill, I have two of them oilers, one for oil and one for grease, but as I pointed out they ain't worth diddly if they can't reach.. Thanks for watching.
@@UmbriellSattori Hi, Its a serrated shell cutter, each cutting edge cuts little chips instead of one peeling, reducing the stress on both the cutter and the machine while removing maximum stock. The problem is, it is only for roughing not finishing. I believe a company called strassmann used to make the ones I used at work. But they are made in almost any type of cutter shape now. I absolutely love them. Regards
Great idea. I have the same mill and powerfeed but I have a DRO scale on the back of my table. I am going to have to cross drill the hole in the back and fill in the hole in the back while putting an oiler on the top of the table.
This is a bit later, but there are oiler cans with bendable metal tubes like a light. They allow the oil can to remain vertical while oiling vertical sitting ball oilers and fit into fairly small holes like the one you drilled in the motor connector. By the way, oilers such as those you made should have a snuggly fitting felt wick. That controls the amount of oil that flows through. Otherwise there’s no control and the oil will usually empty too fast, possibly even when you’re not using the machine.
Hi thanks for your comments. That's a good tip about the felt wick, i'll put some in, especially the ones in the shaper. The oiler on the back of the milling table is a bit out of the way and while it is true about the flex oilers, I like to oil this rear slide using the extended pipe while the machine is working. cheers
You seem to have sound machining techniques Paul and I’ve been meaning to do a similar conversion to the oil ports on my lathe and mill. I’ve also got the same knurling tool as you which I acquired donkeys years ago when I worked on capstain lathes. The company I worked for threw a load of tooling in the skip when they got rid of the capstains and I picked up some nice stuff (with their permission of course). I loved setting those old lathes and missed them when we moved on to CNC.Anyway interesting stuff mate.👍
Hi Tony. Thanks for your comment, yes I did work in the machine shop at a turbogenerator manufacturing company, and I retired about 6 years ago. Like you CNC machines took over and I was sorry to see the old machines go, they had heart and feelings. I've got a real good experimental project coming up next involving my shaper and three and a half thousand holes. If it works out ok I'll post that on TH-cam.
Nice work! I have been thinking of doing the similar to my mill and cheap lathe. It looks as if you are parting and turning brass with a positive-rake tool; brass is better worked with a tool with no rake, which stops the tool grabbing. Similarly, drill bits won't grab, if a small chamfer is ground on the cutting edges, Cheers Charlie
Hi, thanks for watching. yes you are right but I haven’t got a lot of negative rake tools and I won't dull a drill to resharpen it after using it if I can help it. I do have to watch my pennies.
Nice mod Paul, I've always disliked those ball oilers on my lathe and mill, I find them awkward and nasty, time to outfit my equipment like that, cheers!
I'm surprised you dont just make another reservoir mounted on the back or on the front side plumed to the rear. Any way good going so far! Steven Columbus Michigan
Hi Steven, thanks for your comment. jury is still out on that at the moment. As you can see, I force feed the oil like the front one but, I’m waiting until I find the right material to make a reservoir to fit on the end of the table. Regards
more machines need oiler upgrades. my boley rebuild is purely because it has 650000 and 2 oil point that are half hiden.........so she never got oiled propper and hence warn the bed and slide 0.2mm. and i havent even started looking at the rest of the damage. start from the bed up and re desighn the lube system from scratch. idealy i want one oiler for the sadle and apron. fill the pot and done. not shore what the thinking behinde all the hiden and disfunctional oilers are...
Hi, the oilers are obviously there to lubricate the the machine, knowing where these oilers are is often very difficult to find. I do, however, believe that on some machines oilers are placed in them as an afterthought, my mill hasn’t been fitted with the best placed oilers but, if I had a suitable oiler I could have oiled it without modification. However, I don’t know who makes oil cans that reach into difficult to get places.
Thank you brother for the video.
I just found my next project.
You are very welcome, thanks for watching.
You have made me go and have a look at my oilers now :)
Hi,... oooer. Hope I haven’t caused you any problems..😱😊
Cheers Paul.
This video has given me some great ideas about improving the lubrication on the 1942 Colchester Master that I've been restoring.
Thanks Neil (Newport Gwent)
Hi, didn’t they make a gravity trough suppling oil via copper and nylon micro bore pipes.
Hi, I think that may of been on th 50s models. My old girl is the Mk1 early gearhead. It has lube cups on the lead screw and other areas which are at 45 degrees. Using your method will allow me to position the caps vertically allowing me to fill the cap without it running over the edge.
Cheers Neil
I have always contemplated replacing the button oiler on my shaper (ram ways) with a reservoir oiler and you have given me just the right inspiration. Thank you for showing.
Hi, thanks for your comments.
@@Thesheddweller I will have to consider this as the oilers on my lathe are pretty naff - no balls in the ones on the saddle - just holes with loose brass 'plugs' in ! It's how we got it.
However, I'm still working on electrical issues - in my efforts to get the machines out of retirement ! (Machining by Mike)
Very creative way to solve a poorly designed oil system. Well done! I am going to look into this mod for my mill. Thanks for sharing. Fred Ontario, NY
Hi thank you for your comments
Hi Paul, I have the same milling machine and the same issues. In the eighties I worked for a packaging company in the engineering workshop and we had a special push type oil can that was specially suited to the ball closing type oiling ports. I haven't seen one since and even a decent oil can these days seems difficult to find. Your modifications have given me an idea to update my milling machine and trusty old DSG. Great videos and commentary. Russell O''Neill, Cape Town.
Hi Russelloneill, I have two of them oilers, one for oil and one for grease, but as I pointed out they ain't worth diddly if they can't reach.. Thanks for watching.
@@Thesheddweller I have questions if i can. What type of Mill it is? and how are you satisfied with it?
@@UmbriellSattori Hi, Its a serrated shell cutter, each cutting edge cuts little chips instead of one peeling, reducing the stress on both the cutter and the machine while removing maximum stock. The problem is, it is only for roughing not finishing. I believe a company called strassmann used to make the ones I used at work. But they are made in almost any type of cutter shape now. I absolutely love them. Regards
@@Thesheddweller Thank you very much. Best regards.
Great idea. I have the same mill and powerfeed but I have a DRO scale on the back of my table. I am going to have to cross drill the hole in the back and fill in the hole in the back while putting an oiler on the top of the table.
On top!.. I got to see a picture of the end result.
Great video! You might put some felt or cotton in the top of the oiler to catch any stray metal chips that might fall in
Tim Short Hi, I usually put a bit of cloth over it, that’ll do until I make the pot to keep the oil level up.👍
This is a bit later, but there are oiler cans with bendable metal tubes like a light. They allow the oil can to remain vertical while oiling vertical sitting ball oilers and fit into fairly small holes like the one you drilled in the motor connector. By the way, oilers such as those you made should have a snuggly fitting felt wick. That controls the amount of oil that flows through. Otherwise there’s no control and the oil will usually empty too fast, possibly even when you’re not using the machine.
Hi thanks for your comments. That's a good tip about the felt wick, i'll put some in, especially the ones in the shaper. The oiler on the back of the milling table is a bit out of the way and while it is true about the flex oilers, I like to oil this rear slide using the extended pipe while the machine is working. cheers
You seem to have sound machining techniques Paul and I’ve been meaning to do a similar conversion to the oil ports on my lathe and mill. I’ve also got the same knurling tool as you which I acquired donkeys years ago when I worked on capstain lathes. The company I worked for threw a load of tooling in the skip when they got rid of the capstains and I picked up some nice stuff (with their permission of course). I loved setting those old lathes and missed them when we moved on to CNC.Anyway interesting stuff mate.👍
Hi Tony. Thanks for your comment, yes I did work in the machine shop at a turbogenerator manufacturing company, and I retired about 6 years ago. Like you CNC machines took over and I was sorry to see the old machines go, they had heart and feelings.
I've got a real good experimental project coming up next involving my shaper and three and a half thousand holes. If it works out ok I'll post that on TH-cam.
Spelling is 'capstan'. And yes, oddly, as a computer fan, I'm not interested (much) in CNCs !
A good fix !!
Hi. Thanks.
Nice work! I have been thinking of doing the similar to my mill and cheap lathe.
It looks as if you are parting and turning brass with a positive-rake tool; brass is better worked with a tool with no rake, which stops the tool grabbing. Similarly, drill bits won't grab, if a small chamfer is ground on the cutting edges, Cheers Charlie
Hi, thanks for watching. yes you are right but I haven’t got a lot of negative rake tools and I won't dull a drill to resharpen it after using it if I can help it. I do have to watch my pennies.
@@Thesheddweller Neutral rake is what is needed rather than a negative rake. HSS steel works well and is cheaper than carbide, cheers Charlie
Nice mod Paul, I've always disliked those ball oilers on my lathe and mill, I find them awkward and nasty, time to outfit my equipment like that, cheers!
Hi, thanks for watching.
Fantastic!!
Very nice work. What mill is this?
Hi, Its a Warco all gear driven GH milling machine.
I'm surprised you dont just make another reservoir mounted on the back or on the front side plumed to the rear.
Any way good going so far!
Steven Columbus Michigan
Hi Steven, thanks for your comment. jury is still out on that at the moment. As you can see, I force feed the oil like the front one but, I’m waiting until I find the right material to make a reservoir to fit on the end of the table.
Regards
If I see it correctly, you are using aluminum inserts for bronze. Do you do this by chance or from experience?
Hi, i did use brass, cheers
more machines need oiler upgrades. my boley rebuild is purely because it has 650000 and 2 oil point that are half hiden.........so she never got oiled propper and hence warn the bed and slide 0.2mm. and i havent even started looking at the rest of the damage. start from the bed up and re desighn the lube system from scratch. idealy i want one oiler for the sadle and apron. fill the pot and done. not shore what the thinking behinde all the hiden and disfunctional oilers are...
Hi, the oilers are obviously there to lubricate the the machine, knowing where these oilers are is often very difficult to find. I do, however, believe that on some machines oilers are placed in them as an afterthought, my mill hasn’t been fitted with the best placed oilers but, if I had a suitable oiler I could have oiled it without modification. However, I don’t know who makes oil cans that reach into difficult to get places.
There's definitely mouse-clicks in your videos - that's novel :)
ill change the mic next time.