✊DO YOU FULL CRIMP?😍😱

In a full crimp position, your thumb wraps around your index finger.
✅Pros of full crimp:
- Look like a boss
- Allows you to apply more force; pull harder!
- Allows for more wrist movement around the hold (you don’t have to keep your wrist below the hold in the direction you are pulling to maintain friction as you would with more open hand positions)
- Reduces the reliance of friction for those with sweaty hands.
❌Cons of full crimp:
- Puts more strain on tendons, pulleys and joints (dip and pip)
- Can tear cuticles on index finger
- More likely to tear finger skin if climbing on something sharp due to extra pressure
- Reduces span compared to being in a drag position.
- Can cause you to forget how to hold a sloper
- People make fun of you for using it all the time
What are your thoughts on full crimp? Leave a comment!

[@marcusjames1199]

Gotta train it. If you never train it and try to use it in desperation outside… pop.

[@da5ke]

The book beastmak learns it

[@j.l.5966]

You still need to train it unless you never intend to full crimp. Your pulleys, tendons and joints need to be accustomed to the forces applied during a full crimp and that only happens with gradual, progressive overload over time. Otherwise, you’re definitely opening yourself up to injury when you bust it out.

[@jorgemartin8304]

Full crimping is the "Emergency grip", If you can help it.....don't use it😂

[@Sparky210-11]

😂😂😂OK 😂😂😂

[@reformed_attempt_1]

the editing is fire

[@mrmonsterhunter808]

Most indoor holds can be pinched. If you have to full crimp a hold, it should be max 8mm. Anything larger and grip position shouldn’t be an issue. I’ve only truly had to full crimp indoors like twice, I see so many moderate climbers follow videos like this and misjudge when to use that grip then injure their pulleys.

[@solomonreinman7452]

Open hand only

[@rasmusmller625]

58y old , 8 years climbing, haven't yet dared to full crimp, but I'm seldom limited by finger strength, more by core strength and flexibilty

[@murrayty]

I use full crimp but it doesn't make my fingers hyperextend like in the video, in fact I can keep my middle and ring fingers in flexion in a full crimp style grip whereas if I pull that hard in half crimp my fingers would all be hyperextended. I am guessing this is due to my finger anatomy (my index finger extends only slightly past middle finger dip joint and less than half fingernail of ring finger) and I think finger anatomy is often overlooked when discussing preferred grip types.

[@Voidload]

both hands A3-A5 middlefingers hurt... So I open-hand crimp often and rehabilitate :D ... But no crack sound and no fracture. Possibly a mild tear thank god.
But I used to enjoy full crimping alot

[@Sparky210-11]

I full crimp for days. Over 20 years of hard climbing and not a single finger injury ✊

[@selfmadethousanaire]

Get the thumb on and pinch it with a half crimp

[@AdHesiveErmine]

Always crimping ahaha

[@carlosdumbratzen6332]

It depends right?

[@gabrielalmeida6668]

always

[@bradberghan649]

Necessity on the moonboard mini

[@chasingfelix3609]

I basically never full crimp in case I really need to get a move and have exhausted all options.

[@michaeldunlop3286]

Do it
Do it often
Do it hard
😂

[@AdamDoesComics]

I almost never full crimp indoors. If your full crimping indoors your probably doing something wrong lol for most intro to intermeidate grades

[@ianbrannan9608]

Just put your thumb on the hold if it’s big enough

[@th3l05t-kfpreactoroperator5]

I feel like most of the time full crimping doesn’t even do anything. Only when the holds are very small do I fell like I can actually get anything out of it otherwise its just feels very uncomfortable.

[@devonrd]

Where my big hand people at? ✋
I actually never full crimp. Even half crimping on hard boulders can produce aches for me, perhaps because I have l longer fingers, and therefore the lever is larger. It just feels like my A2 is about to explode!
Open hand all the way.

[@TeaAndTea96]

I don't think we should advertise full crimping. If you haven't discovered full crimps yet you're probably a beginner who shouldn't full crimp in the first place.

[@Fallenangel_85]

Funny enough, some pro climbers are so used to this move that they can just do it always without issue and are strongest that way.

[@EverdayClimber]

Full crimp is choss I have fear for everyone who uses it. It hurts to watch the FULL crimp where their hand just turns into a fist around a hold 😳😬

[@RossPotts]

At my age, I minimize full crimps. I’d rather save myself from taking more than a standard rest day.

[@plastikmaiden]

Full crimp almost never feels good for me.

[@DrSenorFishTacos]

I only full crimp when I have no other option and I want to send. Otherwise, I just half crimp or 3f drag.
I see people full crimping on jugs and I cringe. 😮

[@liamgripholds]

full crimp when desperate.

[@xean316]

Do not use the grip indoors. It is never worth it. Save it for outside

[@Skadi2k3]

eww

[@chaosengine4597]

you forgot to mention how bad the load on the fingers is with full crimps.

[@xean316]

The vid literally mentions it lol

[@chaosengine4597]

@@xean316 I stand corrected