E10 Lead Day
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ส.ค. 2024
- I went for the lead on my E10 project. I fell off. Then I got back on and got it, but not without a fight. Some more thoughts on the route, grade etc on my blog. www.davemacleo...
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"Everything had to be right, and it was." I guess in Scotland, pissing raini is "right" :p.
Great work, you're legend Dave.
Oh, one idea for a vlog, Dave: explain the UK trad grading system. Not the usual, which doesn't help, but a detailed look at it, with examples etc. That'd be ace.
Sue Zix Rockfax have produced a good chart comparing English trad grades with other grades. The grade incorporates the technical difficulty and how well protected the route is. Ie an E1 can be a U.K. 5a (won’t be well protected), or a U.K. 5c (will be well protected).
@@spruceg00se Thanks but that's what I mean by the usual. The fact that Dave mentions a French grade for this new E10 is an indication that the UK system doesn't say enough. What is the UK grade of a French 6a that's hard to protect? And easy to protect? And ok to protect?
Sue Zix I guess your right a video would be useful, until such a time when we get one here is some light afternoon reading
@@spruceg00se Cheers. Dave being a thoughtful person, he may have interesting things to say on it, so let's hope.
@@suezix8689 Sorry I know this is an old comment, but the British technical grade of 6a isn't the same as a sport grade of 6a as far as I'm aware. The British grading system has two components: Adjectival (e.g. S, HS, HVS, E1, E2, etc.) and Technical (from 4a to I think 7b). Quite often the British Technical grade is omitted because the Adjectival grade usually implies a certain Technical grade.
"AHHHH!..... shite"
Congratulations! There was a bit of suspense between your last video and this one. So nice to see that you've made it!
On negative thoughts - "Let them come, let them go and just do your thing..." Solid advice whatever you are attempting in this world, I reckon.
I love your perspective on self-doubt and commitment . "There's no prizes for a half-assed effort, I've just got to fully commit". Congrats on the send, onto the next!
I'm absolutely new to bouldering and not even past V2 level yet but Dave you are so inspiring. It's not that I have any plans to get to a high level, it is simply your brutal honesty that makes these videos compelling. I have sat for the last 4 days praying that the next update on your channel was not by someone else. To see you acknowledge and embrace that fear sets an example that I hope to follow in life.
Keep at it Dave, you may climb solo but you do not climb alone.
Dave my heart really goes out to you. I love these vlogs. Recently ive been very focused on gratitude and to hear you echoing my thoughts was really nice. Thanks so much for being the outstanding human you are. Peace. 🤙🏼
Thank you for sharing these beautiful adventures and reflections!
Damn! Absolute living legend. A true rock warrior and everything I aspire to as a climber!
This was beautifully made. Easily some of the best climbing content around. Thanks, Dave!
You are an amazing climber, teacher, and inspiration.
Please -
Stay healthy, stay fearful, stay honest, stay resilient, stay for your family.
Deepest, deepest respect.
Wow! Nice one👍
Great life advice you give about the inevitability of emerging thoughts of self doubt. ‘You have to let them come, then let them go; pass over you. Then get on and do your thing.’ I’m going to remember that.
Just bought both your books on Prime. Trying to recover from a very audible pop in my right palm about two months ago. Hoping for some sound advice for speedy recovery.
Heck Yeah - love the narration of how you just let the thoughts float by. Long my you continue indeed.
Dude you're a legend! Thanks for inspiring us all to send our own projects
Very much excited that I found your climbing films
dave you’re a damn legend, thank you for another wonderful video of climbing and a deep look into the mind of someone who makes spectacular feet’s like this seem possible, congratulations!
Thanks for the line about letting the thoughts flow over you. So true. So good.
Congratulations Dave!
Re-reading 9 out of 10 to be re-inspired into a focused approach to climbing and climbing-health. Such a great perspective you bring, especially for us middle-aged folks trying to enjoy many more sends.
So pleasurable to watch you send this project.
nice one dave so chuffed for you. I've even been nervous waiting to hear if you'd done it
I suppose it's all relative, but your idea of well protected is definitely different from mine. Your talking about your head space while leading and soloing is pure gold. Please continue with that
Brilliant work - a pleasure to share in the process, & not merely the outcome (which is itself bloody impressive, needless to say).
We all have our projects - even if we're no longer climbing hard(-ish) - and your mental resilience is a perfect reminder of how to do it well.
Cheers!
Amazing Dave! Well done, not only the route but the voice over and back story made it! I love the fact that you share so much of your thought process while climbing. Congratulations!
Love it! Great job Dave! The focus on the mental process leading up to a route like this is really informative and inspiring. That wave of doubt that comes over you, right as you approach the crux, far away from safety... wow! so exciting!
Really inspiring! thanks for sharing the ups and the downs :)
Another outstanding effort Dave.
Will be interesting to see how long it waits for a repeat.
I congratulate you from the deepest place of my heart. I'm really happy that you sent your project, Dave.
Cathartic moment or catastrophic event... YoudAMan Dave MacLeod! Stay safe out there.
What a legend! Massive congratulations Dave. Such a pleasure to watch you climb and inspiring to hear you power scream!
Way to go Dave! Beyond happy for you! Your bravery, dedication, passion and expertise have been an inspiration for years, this is yet another example of all of the above!
Congrats Dave,
Strong send but even stronger mental game. I love the in-depth explanations of your headspace and thoughts and what you do to overcome them. Another legendary send!
inspirational dave, thanks.
Awesome stuff! My brother and I have been checking you're social media everyday since you're last video and were so relieved to see you did it, congrats!
Was starting to worry after last vid and no news for 3 days!! Great effort
Well done!!
congrats and thanks for sharing!
Fantastic! Poured myself a single malt and enjoyed the beautiful battle.
Awesome attitude!!
Way to face your fears!! Congratulations, very impressive!!
Absolutely solid route. Fantastic! 🤘
Keep cranking Dave,coz old age is what gets in the way of it.
Nice variation of the running belay.
Amazing. Congrats!
And a truly inspiring post as always. So glad you keep up this vlog. Gotta love it when you talk about maybe check for wet holds on the easy top out after risking it all further down, and then say "... but is just wasn't time so I just went for it " 😆👊
Congratulations Dave! Been following intently from Melbourne
Awesome stuff Dave, well done! Admire your very honest and well spoken words while breaking the route down afterwards!👍
Congratulations Dave, been great following you on this journey.
Congratulations Dave. amazing job. great video of your thought process and what goes on in your mind. really loving the style and format of how you create your videos.
next project but for 5 minutes congratulate yourself... another first ascent, an E10.... in 50-100 years someone will walk up to the same crag, look at the guide book and see Dave MacLeod first ascent 2019... must be pretty special 👏👏👏👏👏
congratulations yet again
Mad respect for the preparation process needed for a send like this! Proper excited to see how happy you are mate. Congrats!
Bonkers but brilliant! Well done Dave ... congrats
So glad to see this send!! Was rooting for you since I found your channel a couple weeks ago
Congratulations. I'm happy for you!
Damn! And to think of how petty grade I was climbing lead last yesterday and being freaked out. Outdoors just does have those “what if I fall” now with no controlled gym environment?!” Scary! And that would of been a big fall. With kids and wife can’t take those risks but admire your clout and love for the sport.
Oh Dave. Sooo happy you got that one man! I was worried about you for a bit there. Outstanding effort!
Absolutely amazing effort Dave! I really enjoyed watching and listening to the “decision’ vlog just before this one. Your understated, analytical style is so interesting and I am really trying to take some things from this to my own approach to routes, not that I am climbing at anywhere near your level. Really enjoying ‘9 out of 10” too, which is also very thought provoking.
Keep up the great work on these interesting projects.
Congratulations and thanks for the great video. Love hearing your thoughts on a hard climb and life in general
Nice one Dave.
Sweet, Thanks for sharing your success and your process Dave
Congratulations Dave!
Congratulations, Dave!
Great effort Dave, you earned that with the work you put in. Thanks for sharing.
Congrats Dave. I’ve been eagerly awaiting news on this after watching your last video. Absolute legend 🤜
Congratulations! You are a great inspiration and I really enjoy your videos. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Good job keep posting
That was great! Rain and all.
thanks so much dave! really enjoy your videos, makes me wanna get to the next level!
Such an inspiration you are. Congratulations.
Well done Dave. Awesome effort👍
Awesome Dave! Inspirational. Makes me want to go hard on my projects :)
Holy shit, mad respect. Very inspiring
Excited!!!! Had my palms sweating after that first fall! Congratulations! Such an inspiration to try hard! Really well done sir⚡
Great effort. :-)
Thanks for all your videos documenting the process. Very insightful.
Congrats Dave!
I ordered your book about a week ago :) can't wait to read it!
Congratulations Dave, massive effort!
Congratulations Dave, beautiful line, even better setting... Looks like someone may have found some actual 7a climbing at last. On to the next, good man! Come say hi when next in Siurana. Try Arbolí instead. Shady all day..... Salud! x
Freekin gigantic set of nads.!!!
Woohoo! Nice one! Against all the odds!
Inspiration.
I am really happy for you! Well done!
Well done. Absolute legend
Great climb, seriously impressive! That run out is insane ha.
Reckon you could do a video on how to increase endurance? It's my number one issue when sport climbing. I can do the moves in isolation, I'm just absolutely pumped by the time I get to them..
I'd be interested in any good indoor routines to improve my endurance so I'm ready when I want to go outdoors.
Amazing! So stoked!
Absolute machine.
fear is, indeed, the mind killer. challenge well met sir.
I love Masa
Well done Dave. Scottish conditions beaten yet again.
damn scotland is just stunning
Congratulation Dave!
Very many congrats. That smile on your face reminds me of Honnold's at the end of Freerider. The big-tick smile.
Congratulations Dave. I still feel you are maybe the most underrated climber on the planet. I know your stance on risks and disagree, but to each his own I suppose. Very nice send, but it feels reassuring to know that even beasts like yourself can get nervous on grades way below their limits (unless that was some weird brit grade 7a).
This channel has been a blessing, please keep your great work up.
Bernhard Langers E10 7a equates to ABOUT 8c or 5.14b
Robert Lawson 5.14b R or maybe even X considering what falling into the lower slab might do to you.
So stoked for Dave(s) (because Dave Graham also just sent his project)!! One thing I'm curious about (coming from a non-trad background) is what this style of ascent would be considered? I know it falls in with headpointing from all of the top rope rehearsals but what happens to this distinction when the gear is pre-placed up through the crux? No criticism intended, I'm just trying to clarify if this is similar to redpointing occasionally encompassing pinkpointing (like Ondra's Silence being referred to as a redpoint). Thanks!
What a beast!
Nice one Dave..legend
well done mate!
The first fall really looks like you don't want to hold onto these holds anymore...one of the strangest falls I've seen. Strong send though :)
Absolute legend, nice one Dave!
Out fing standing!!
Yes! Well done, Dave. Super happy for you! On to the next project! What will it be?
Awesome! Well done