I been collecting knives for a while, and I love doing custom work and I have taken apart countless, and I still stripped out a T6 the other day on a brand-new knife, it was a clip screw. Damn it. thanks for the video, I'm definitely going to do this. Gave you a sub.
I've found that using a soldering iron to heat the screws helps tremendously to break those over threadlocked screws. Just touch them with the hot iron for a few seconds and try to unscrew...rinse and repeat.
Oh wow I came here to comment the same thing. I had a ton of trouble with someone having a party with red locktite and the only thing that worked was a soldering iron
No rinse, just remove them from the ammonia chamber, let them air out, and then apply the clear coat. I did do a little KP on the screw holes, just to make sure they were good. but you can do that afterwards.
I actually bought a copper natrix to force a patina on, and EVERY screw 1) had more locktite on it than any other knife I’ve opened, 2) it was red locktite. I couldn’t get it open no matter how long I had it on the hair drier. Ended up using a soldering iron on the screws. It broke 4 bits and I kept grinding them, by the end I had one bit, barely functional.
so can i use that clear coat to protect the copper from being patinad at all? i have an engraving on a copper leek kershaw that i want to keep the copper bright on
Very cool, thanks. I've got the flytanium brass scales for Spyderco PM2 coming and I think I'm going to do this. What would happen if you didn't clear coat it afterwards? Does it have a nice rough texture? Would the blue rub off?
If you dont, the patina will wear off quite easily. If you do this, and you do not like the results, you can simply clean them off back to new, and do it again.
They turned out fantastic! I'm doing the scales for my Kizer Original right now. Couple of questions for you. How many coats of clear coat did you apply and did everything go back together OK? Curious if after the patina and clear coat did the screws go back in or did you have to clean the holes out with something?
Thanks! I did 3 coats of clear coat, letting them dry each time. I did not to anything with the holes on two, and used some wooden toothpicks and threaded the holes on another. In the end, the only pain in the ass part was getting the now soggy toothpicks out of the holes. They all went together just fine. I did try to avoid things like grains of salt getting into the holes, but one of them had a massive salt grain in one of them, and it did not impact the threading at all. I would suggest using a toothpick or something to lightly clean them out before reinstalling the scales. The soft wood wont damage the threading. Thanks again, and I hope this answers your questions. Happy holidays!
What kinda temp/humidity were you drying your clear coat at? Just like another commenter, I too would be curious how matte looks compared to gloss. Thanks for the great video!
I have been thinking about it. Perhaps. I will need more information on what exactly it is you have, and what you're looking for. Shoot me an email at randoshutler@gmail.com
Very nice, I might have to give this a try! The only thing I noticed was that the scales might look even better with black T6 screws. Nice job!
I been collecting knives for a while, and I love doing custom work and I have taken apart countless, and I still stripped out a T6 the other day on a brand-new knife, it was a clip screw. Damn it. thanks for the video, I'm definitely going to do this. Gave you a sub.
I've found that using a soldering iron to heat the screws helps tremendously to break those over threadlocked screws. Just touch them with the hot iron for a few seconds and try to unscrew...rinse and repeat.
Oh wow I came here to comment the same thing. I had a ton of trouble with someone having a party with red locktite and the only thing that worked was a soldering iron
That looks siiiiick! A guy would be lucky to have such a beautiful piece :)
Well aren't you in luck!
@@NWEDC
Cool video thanks. Very informative.
Great video! It helped alot.
Using fine grain salt and half a lemon works just the same and it smells much better. Trying 000 steel wool on a forced patina set of scales.
Maybe I missed what you did after pulling them out to dry. Did you rinse them off, lightly sand...?? Prior to clear coat.
No rinse, just remove them from the ammonia chamber, let them air out, and then apply the clear coat. I did do a little KP on the screw holes, just to make sure they were good. but you can do that afterwards.
@@NWEDC 👍
I actually bought a copper natrix to force a patina on, and EVERY screw 1) had more locktite on it than any other knife I’ve opened, 2) it was red locktite. I couldn’t get it open no matter how long I had it on the hair drier. Ended up using a soldering iron on the screws. It broke 4 bits and I kept grinding them, by the end I had one bit, barely functional.
Not really a knife guy but I need to know what the bigger knife is…. I gotta get one.
so can i use that clear coat to protect the copper from being patinad at all? i have an engraving on a copper leek kershaw that i want to keep the copper bright on
Very cool, thanks. I've got the flytanium brass scales for Spyderco PM2 coming and I think I'm going to do this.
What would happen if you didn't clear coat it afterwards? Does it have a nice rough texture? Would the blue rub off?
If you dont, the patina will wear off quite easily. If you do this, and you do not like the results, you can simply clean them off back to new, and do it again.
They turned out fantastic! I'm doing the scales for my Kizer Original right now. Couple of questions for you. How many coats of clear coat did you apply and did everything go back together OK? Curious if after the patina and clear coat did the screws go back in or did you have to clean the holes out with something?
Thanks! I did 3 coats of clear coat, letting them dry each time. I did not to anything with the holes on two, and used some wooden toothpicks and threaded the holes on another. In the end, the only pain in the ass part was getting the now soggy toothpicks out of the holes. They all went together just fine. I did try to avoid things like grains of salt getting into the holes, but one of them had a massive salt grain in one of them, and it did not impact the threading at all. I would suggest using a toothpick or something to lightly clean them out before reinstalling the scales. The soft wood wont damage the threading. Thanks again, and I hope this answers your questions. Happy holidays!
What kinda temp/humidity were you drying your clear coat at?
Just like another commenter, I too would be curious how matte looks compared to gloss.
Thanks for the great video!
Use purple loctite on the t6 screws
Nice! I will check it out. Thanks!
does it make a big difference ?
did u use matte lacquer or gloss?
gloss clear coat finish, will do a matte with my anodizing in a later video.
If you dont like vinager youcould use citric acid.
Can I send you a set of gun grips to work on?
I have been thinking about it. Perhaps. I will need more information on what exactly it is you have, and what you're looking for. Shoot me an email at randoshutler@gmail.com
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Hey man there’s someone who copied this recording of your video and uploaded it to TH-cam with the name “EDCBA” pretending to be you