You might have luck with a carbon option in that length or possibly a youth? I never looked below 160mm for options. I've ridden on 155s before and I felt like a hamster in a wheel trying to keep cadence.
Seems the only option is to drill and shorten Race Face Atlas or Turbine cranks. From what I found nothing fits with 155mm cranks because the selection is so limited for traditional BBs.
Please don't clamp the frame tube since it can damage the frame. Instead, extend your dropper and clamp it instead. So long as the dropper is extended all the way, it won't hurt the mechanism.
It shouldn't be but maybe you need a different type of grease or no grease. I'm not sure how the Bottom Brackets are setup with the Carbon models so you'd need to research that. However the parts should still be the same.
@@OtterMTBtech I have a bit over 1k miles on it now. I've enjoyed the bike but it's got some issues. All on the hardware side though. I did purchase the A30 knowing I would be upgrading everything over time. Software and interface has been awesome. I love the way the motor feeds power. It wants a bit more cadence but it rewards you. It's heavy. Don't expect to get this one into SL weights. I also went with a Linkglide setup recently. The Deore put up a good fight for 800 miles, and it's not easy riding. So high consumables, but that's ebike life.
It's a pretty universal thing. Like it does headsets as well up to 56mm. It's just some turned aluminum flippable inserts with an all-thread center. I found it on eBay here in the states. A normal BB tool is pretty costly as is a headset tool. This one was maybe $50.
When I did this with a Hope bottom bracket I found the chainring was too close to the bash guard. Fitting a normal threaded bb spacer fixed this problem. I would say the spider clutch (sprag clutch) is the main downside to the whole system, wet weather in the UK ruined the bearings in less than 12 months. Also, buy a Cane Creek or Muc-Off preload ring as the plastic one breaks when you least expect it. Does anyone know if the North Shore Billet Talon crankset fits Powerplay models?
When you talk about the spacer you added. What do you mean by a "normal threaded BB spacer"? My chain-line didn't deviate between the OEM composite material BB shell and the RaceFace aluminum shell I used. I've also never had a preload ring snap on me, but I also don't over-torque that tiny 2mm bolt. It only requires like 9in-lbs. No idea about the North Shore Billet set. The 165mm Atlas setup works well for me. I could see maybe going to 160s in the low position but out here in Colorado it's so rocky I don't really want my BB that low. I could see how the sprag clutch would be annoying in wet climates. I've not had an issue with it but we are about as opposite as it gets climate wise.
@@CodyYankey Hi, thanks for the reply. Okay, so the Hope PF41 bottom bracket is literally 2 oversized bearings you press directly into the frame, it means they’re flush against the frame which misaligned the bottom roller. Yours didn’t change because the bottom bracket had cups (which is probably a better idea for this bike). Luckily I had a spare spacer from a standard threaded 73mm bottom bracket (the type to space from 68mm to 73mm bb) I was able to use to realign the chain. I hadn’t had a preload split on me either, but another TH-camr had a weekend ruined by a damaged one which snapped with no warning, I just wanted to highlight that there’s a couple of other options available. And finally, the 165mm Atlas cranks are a slight improvement over the standard length but I’ve still done a lot of damage to the ends of the crank arms and also some OneUp pedals with rock strikes while climbing rough trails and adding air to the rear shock only helps so much even in the high setting, hence me being desperate to try shorter.
@@heywood165 Gotcha. I have never used HOPE products but everyone in Europe seems to love them. The factor Ride cranks my LG Altitude was spec'd with said 170mm but they were 175mm total length. The 165 Atlas are 165mm total. It helped me a ton but yeah, my crank arms are still banged up. I also ride 1UP aluminum pedals and they are trashed. Colorado is pretty rough on components though. Thanks for the heads up on the cinch lock ring. I'll keep my eye on it. I do have a spare in my bike bag but I don't carry one with me. I could see how having one split would be a total PITA to deal with on trail.
thank you Cody
Now ir only I could find some 155 cranks that would fit, good video though.
You might have luck with a carbon option in that length or possibly a youth? I never looked below 160mm for options. I've ridden on 155s before and I felt like a hamster in a wheel trying to keep cadence.
I’m hoping to try North Shore Billet’s Talon Crankset in the future. If it works I’ll try and remember to post here.
Seems the only option is to drill and shorten Race Face Atlas or Turbine cranks. From what I found nothing fits with 155mm cranks because the selection is so limited for traditional BBs.
Just taaaaaap it in.
Please don't clamp the frame tube since it can damage the frame. Instead, extend your dropper and clamp it instead. So long as the dropper is extended all the way, it won't hurt the mechanism.
I wouldn't clamp a Carbon frame but aluminum or steel, meh.
Thanks great video, would the process be any different on a 22 PP Carbon70?
It shouldn't be but maybe you need a different type of grease or no grease. I'm not sure how the Bottom Brackets are setup with the Carbon models so you'd need to research that. However the parts should still be the same.
What shell width did you order your BB92 bottom bracket in? RF has three options for that part. 104/107, 121/124, or 89/92?
I went with the 89/92 for mine. Not sure how important that is to be honest.
According to RM, it's a BB 89.5
I am debating buying this bike, do you regret it? that looked allot of work to get 165 cranks. Did it stop pedal striking?
@@OtterMTBtech I have a bit over 1k miles on it now. I've enjoyed the bike but it's got some issues. All on the hardware side though. I did purchase the A30 knowing I would be upgrading everything over time. Software and interface has been awesome. I love the way the motor feeds power. It wants a bit more cadence but it rewards you.
It's heavy. Don't expect to get this one into SL weights. I also went with a Linkglide setup recently. The Deore put up a good fight for 800 miles, and it's not easy riding. So high consumables, but that's ebike life.
Also, yeah, pedal strikes are a 1/4 what the once we're with the 165s. I'd probably even like 160 if I had an affordable option.
Do you have the specs on that specialty tool? Is there a specific bb it’s supposed to be compatible
It's a pretty universal thing. Like it does headsets as well up to 56mm. It's just some turned aluminum flippable inserts with an all-thread center. I found it on eBay here in the states. A normal BB tool is pretty costly as is a headset tool. This one was maybe $50.
When I did this with a Hope bottom bracket I found the chainring was too close to the bash guard. Fitting a normal threaded bb spacer fixed this problem. I would say the spider clutch (sprag clutch) is the main downside to the whole system, wet weather in the UK ruined the bearings in less than 12 months. Also, buy a Cane Creek or Muc-Off preload ring as the plastic one breaks when you least expect it.
Does anyone know if the North Shore Billet Talon crankset fits Powerplay models?
When you talk about the spacer you added. What do you mean by a "normal threaded BB spacer"? My chain-line didn't deviate between the OEM composite material BB shell and the RaceFace aluminum shell I used. I've also never had a preload ring snap on me, but I also don't over-torque that tiny 2mm bolt. It only requires like 9in-lbs.
No idea about the North Shore Billet set. The 165mm Atlas setup works well for me. I could see maybe going to 160s in the low position but out here in Colorado it's so rocky I don't really want my BB that low. I could see how the sprag clutch would be annoying in wet climates. I've not had an issue with it but we are about as opposite as it gets climate wise.
@@CodyYankey Hi, thanks for the reply. Okay, so the Hope PF41 bottom bracket is literally 2 oversized bearings you press directly into the frame, it means they’re flush against the frame which misaligned the bottom roller. Yours didn’t change because the bottom bracket had cups (which is probably a better idea for this bike). Luckily I had a spare spacer from a standard threaded 73mm bottom bracket (the type to space from 68mm to 73mm bb) I was able to use to realign the chain.
I hadn’t had a preload split on me either, but another TH-camr had a weekend ruined by a damaged one which snapped with no warning, I just wanted to highlight that there’s a couple of other options available.
And finally, the 165mm Atlas cranks are a slight improvement over the standard length but I’ve still done a lot of damage to the ends of the crank arms and also some OneUp pedals with rock strikes while climbing rough trails and adding air to the rear shock only helps so much even in the high setting, hence me being desperate to try shorter.
@@heywood165 Gotcha. I have never used HOPE products but everyone in Europe seems to love them.
The factor Ride cranks my LG Altitude was spec'd with said 170mm but they were 175mm total length. The 165 Atlas are 165mm total. It helped me a ton but yeah, my crank arms are still banged up. I also ride 1UP aluminum pedals and they are trashed. Colorado is pretty rough on components though.
Thanks for the heads up on the cinch lock ring. I'll keep my eye on it. I do have a spare in my bike bag but I don't carry one with me. I could see how having one split would be a total PITA to deal with on trail.
Spindle lenght is the same on altitude pp 2020? Thanks
No clue, you would probably need to email Rocky and ask.
what is the weight of powerplay altitude a30?
I have no idea, over 50lbs but under 60lbs.... probably?
So the standard BB tool won't work?
I'm not sure I follow. These are press in bearings. What do you mean by "standard BB tool"?
@@CodyYankey For the spider where you use the Sram tool.
@@rawmancemtb gotcha, no, that's a standard BB tool for the clutch lock but. So the SRAM 68-73mm style external bearings.