Thank you for this fab video. Have been messing around with fountain pens since I was 11 years old. Wrecked a few. This video was great to see how you work. I have used 8 K buffing discs to polish nobs. Will now look for 12K paper, or micromesh paper. Now 76, never too late to learn.
Hey hoss, wet stones are great, but I highly recommend diamond stones. They come rough enough to take off half your knife in one pass, and fine enough to polish, and last forever. No need for water or anything, and no mess
hi dude! thanks for this amazing video. very informative. great job. not many pros out there doing this kinda stuff. can you tell me what type of Arkansas stone you're using? thanks keep up the good work.
Thank you thank you! Your video has been the clearest and most instructional I have senn on nib working!! I have been doing what seems to be logical but you took it to an art!
Nice! I tried the sandpaper only on a MB 149, and tried making it broad. Worked good, and I uploaded a sample on my page. I next tried it on a 146....Unfortunately, I lost the tipping pretty much entirely. Re tipping is not cheap, but I tried smoothen the gold and use it as is....it is acceptable, but not very smooth. What are your thoughts on un-tipped pens?
I realise this is an old video, but how would you grind a stub nib from a round nib? For some reason, when I try to do this, I always create an architect nib.
To cut a stub starting from a rounded nib is similar to this, except I've found changing the order of the steps achieves a better, more precise result. Cut first the face of the nib, where he cuts with the Arkansas stone (90°) until you get the desired width. Then cut the bottom face at 0° and leave some of the original roundness, depending how much stubbiness you want to achieve. Then cut the upper face at a slight 8° to sharpen slightly the horizontal stroke. The reason to change the order is that it's much easier to flatten partially and leave some of the original roundness. When trying to cut everything sharp and then round, it's impossible to create an even radius, the writing surface tends to curve at the edges and you end with a slightly elliptical contact surface, which reduces the pleasant feedback you get when the contact surface is perfectly straight.
seems like the squared off angle on the bottom of the nib is the main part of what makes the fine cross stroke. why is it necessary to cut the top of the ball?
Use sandpapers for everything. Dremel is difficult to control. It is very easy with sandpaper, grades 600, 1000, 2500, finally 25000 for smoothness. Just as fast but better control. You are doing it the difficult way.
@@Pentuner Hello! I just came across your videos. It's been a while, so you may not see this. This was very instructive, thank you. Can you tell me what foot pedal you're using for your Dremel?
лол басурманский - это всё вручную делаться, простыми точильными брусками с толкучки - без круга с дикой зернистостью и 30000к оборотами после, грубая зализывающая доводка на бумаге с пастой ГОИ или наждаке р3000, финиш в зеркало на бумаге с алмазной пастой 1/0 и ниже - и всё постоянно контролировать под микроскопом от 100х - без него просто бесполезно лезть в моды перьев арканзапсы итп ножевое - слишком грубое для перьев, и слишком кривой свой горизонт имеют - перьям на финишь только шлифпасты от 1 микрона и ниже, и только на пористой бумаге без покрытия, куда они могут свободно проваливаться при избыточном давлении
I have been using sanding paper 80,100,120 to smooth my surface of my fountain pens ,please suggest me any other modes to surface my nibs Hemant kothari
The sandpaper grit size that you are using is much too coarse for a delicate pen nib. Start with 400 or 600 and graduate to 1000, then 2000, or even higher (finer) to polish the nib. Preferably use water paper; its not expensive and readily available at auto repair/paint shops. Lay your paper on a perfectly flat surface- a piece of glass, tempered preferably for safety, but not absolutely necessary; a polished granite tile (usually 12"x12"), available for a few dollars at most flooring/tile stores also works well. If you are independently wealthy, you can use different grades of Arkansas stones or Japanese water stones, but these are not at all necessary. Good luck.
You keep your eye on the same "plane" as the wheel. You're flattening the "tip" of the nib. Thank you so much for giving me the confidence to customize the nibs on my fountain pens and showing me how to do it.
Almost moved away from watching this the moment I saw the dremel tool.!! Glad I didn't Thanks for putting up such an informative and hands-on video. Now I can safely say that I have the confidence to tune my fountain pen nibs. 👏🤩
This is a cursive smooth italic, that keeps some of the iridium at the tip, right? Could you make a video teaching how to make an architect nib? thanks a lot.
I've done this before. Get a good, very broad, iridium tipped nib. The trick to an Architect nib is to remember that it's taller than it is wide, so rather than grinding the top and bottom of the tip, you're grinding the sides of the tip. Follow the shape of the nib while grinding in the direction of the inkflow and go easy with it. Once you start getting a point, hold the pen as you write naturally and start grinding the writing face at that angle on some fine sandpaper or micromesh before you finish the side-grinding. Do not worry about getting your grind perfect. Your pen will be unique to you, and it will be one that you can use naturally every single time. Do not use a nib you're afraid of destroying. If you do not grind parallel to the ink flow, you WILL damage your nib very quickly. If you do not take your time, you will damage your nib irreparably. If you do not use fine abrasives, you may damage your nib irreparably. If you aren't familiar with metalworking or abrasive grinding, I wouldn't try this. Good way to ruin a pen that works pretty well, and cause a lot of frustration.
Viewers, pay attention....If ever you decide to offer your advice or opinions or give a presentation or tutorial, this video is a fine example of how it's supposed to be done as far as speech. Precise....No stuttering....No B.S....No retracting and stumbling.....Just facts. Straightforward. When I go to lookup a tutorial to learn something I get so frustrated by many of the channels where the presenter is stuttering over a kaleidoscope of points all willy nilly. I dont like willy nilly snake oil purveyors trying to F up my project.....This dude leaves the willy and the nilly to the birds and does not steer me wrong. I came to learn. I learned. Me happy 😊. Notice his hand and movement while he is polishing the nib after grinding. This is the mark of a gentleman who has never had time for B.S. Nay....The mark of a pedigree weaned unto the philosophy of smarter not harder. Professor asks, 'Done?' His answer, you can be damn sure, is 'Yes sir! Of course and with indentation! '
Thank you for this fab video. Have been messing around with fountain pens since I was 11 years old. Wrecked a few. This video was great to see how you work. I have used 8 K buffing discs to polish nobs. Will now look for 12K paper, or micromesh paper. Now 76, never too late to learn.
Great video - no one else actually teaches how to do this stuff - Thanks🙏👍
Took inspiration from you and made my rough and redundant Parkers 21, 45, 51 and 61 functional. Thanks for inspiration.
Hey hoss, wet stones are great, but I highly recommend diamond stones. They come rough enough to take off half your knife in one pass, and fine enough to polish, and last forever. No need for water or anything, and no mess
How about an oblique stub grind video?
I’m a metalsmith dabbling in nib modification. This is a fantastic video. You did a fantastic job explaining the process. Thank you.
Great video! Used these steps to convert a Kaweco BB nib into a Stub nib. Thank you!
Can u share a video on how to achieve a Needlepoint please
hi dude! thanks for this amazing video. very informative. great job. not many pros out there doing this kinda stuff. can you tell me what type of Arkansas stone you're using? thanks keep up the good work.
Thank you thank you! Your video has been the clearest and most instructional I have senn on nib working!! I have been doing what seems to be logical but you took it to an art!
Excellent. Thank you, Jesse.
I'd like to see how to make an F or XF nib from from a M or (not so) F ones.
Nice!
I tried the sandpaper only on a MB 149, and tried making it broad. Worked good, and I uploaded a sample on my page. I next tried it on a 146....Unfortunately, I lost the tipping pretty much entirely. Re tipping is not cheap, but I tried smoothen the gold and use it as is....it is acceptable, but not very smooth. What are your thoughts on un-tipped pens?
What about the tipping material? you just get rid of it and write with the steel? You mentioned that you even do this with gold nibs...
Great video. RS.
I realise this is an old video, but how would you grind a stub nib from a round nib? For some reason, when I try to do this, I always create an architect nib.
To cut a stub starting from a rounded nib is similar to this, except I've found changing the order of the steps achieves a better, more precise result. Cut first the face of the nib, where he cuts with the Arkansas stone (90°) until you get the desired width. Then cut the bottom face at 0° and leave some of the original roundness, depending how much stubbiness you want to achieve. Then cut the upper face at a slight 8° to sharpen slightly the horizontal stroke. The reason to change the order is that it's much easier to flatten partially and leave some of the original roundness. When trying to cut everything sharp and then round, it's impossible to create an even radius, the writing surface tends to curve at the edges and you end with a slightly elliptical contact surface, which reduces the pleasant feedback you get when the contact surface is perfectly straight.
@@jupatj24 Thank you. I'll attempt this soon.
That was nibs, not nobs.
seems like the squared off angle on the bottom of the nib is the main part of what makes the fine cross stroke. why is it necessary to cut the top of the ball?
Jesse Wang aesthetics
Use sandpapers for everything. Dremel is difficult to control. It is very easy with sandpaper, grades 600, 1000, 2500, finally 25000 for smoothness. Just as fast but better control. You are doing it the difficult way.
That's what the foot pedal is for - as I said it is an essential tool.
BiggieG can you teach me ?
@@Pentuner Hello! I just came across your videos. It's been a while, so you may not see this.
This was very instructive, thank you. Can you tell me what foot pedal you're using for your Dremel?
Great Video. I will be placing an order.
Good choice water on the hone stone. Oil mucks up the nib and feed requiring cleaning so ink flows nicely.
лол басурманский - это всё вручную делаться, простыми точильными брусками с толкучки - без круга с дикой зернистостью и 30000к оборотами
после, грубая зализывающая доводка на бумаге с пастой ГОИ или наждаке р3000, финиш в зеркало на бумаге с алмазной пастой 1/0 и ниже - и всё постоянно контролировать под микроскопом от 100х - без него просто бесполезно лезть в моды перьев
арканзапсы итп ножевое - слишком грубое для перьев, и слишком кривой свой горизонт имеют - перьям на финишь только шлифпасты от 1 микрона и ниже, и только на пористой бумаге без покрытия, куда они могут свободно проваливаться при избыточном давлении
Great to watch and informative. Thank you.
basically u see the wheel in elevation..u do not see any ellipse at all! that's another way to say it
I like your video......I do that to my fountain pen and it works......thx
Can you make a Cursive italic nib to a more smaller point regrinding around the nib again?
Can you polish a nib on a stropping leather?
Great video..Thank you
I have been using sanding paper 80,100,120 to smooth my surface of my fountain pens ,please suggest me any other modes to surface my nibs Hemant kothari
The sandpaper grit size that you are using is much too coarse for a delicate pen nib. Start with 400 or 600 and graduate to 1000, then 2000, or even higher (finer) to polish the nib. Preferably use water paper; its not expensive and readily available at auto repair/paint shops. Lay your paper on a perfectly flat surface- a piece of glass, tempered preferably for safety, but not absolutely necessary; a polished granite tile (usually 12"x12"), available for a few dollars at most flooring/tile stores also works well. If you are independently wealthy, you can use different grades of Arkansas stones or Japanese water stones, but these are not at all necessary. Good luck.
Amazing video, thank you for sharing
HIS PEN BUSINESS IS OUT OF BUSINESS>
Really helpful video...thanks!
Thanks a lot!
Is that the stroke width chart from Richard's site or do you have another one?
I made it myself, it's available on my website here www.pentuner.com/about/#widths
Excellent demonstration.
Thank you!
You keep your eye on the same "plane" as the wheel.
You're flattening the "tip" of the nib.
Thank you so much for giving me the confidence to customize the nibs on my fountain pens and showing me how to do it.
Almost moved away from watching this the moment I saw the dremel tool.!! Glad I didn't
Thanks for putting up such an informative and hands-on video. Now I can safely say that I have the confidence to tune my fountain pen nibs. 👏🤩
This is a cursive smooth italic, that keeps some of the iridium at the tip, right? Could you make a video teaching how to make an architect nib? thanks a lot.
I've done this before. Get a good, very broad, iridium tipped nib. The trick to an Architect nib is to remember that it's taller than it is wide, so rather than grinding the top and bottom of the tip, you're grinding the sides of the tip. Follow the shape of the nib while grinding in the direction of the inkflow and go easy with it. Once you start getting a point, hold the pen as you write naturally and start grinding the writing face at that angle on some fine sandpaper or micromesh before you finish the side-grinding.
Do not worry about getting your grind perfect. Your pen will be unique to you, and it will be one that you can use naturally every single time. Do not use a nib you're afraid of destroying.
If you do not grind parallel to the ink flow, you WILL damage your nib very quickly. If you do not take your time, you will damage your nib irreparably. If you do not use fine abrasives, you may damage your nib irreparably.
If you aren't familiar with metalworking or abrasive grinding, I wouldn't try this. Good way to ruin a pen that works pretty well, and cause a lot of frustration.
Viewers, pay attention....If ever you decide to offer your advice or opinions or give a presentation or tutorial, this video is a fine example of how it's supposed to be done as far as speech. Precise....No stuttering....No B.S....No retracting and stumbling.....Just facts. Straightforward. When I go to lookup a tutorial to learn something I get so frustrated by many of the channels where the presenter is stuttering over a kaleidoscope of points all willy nilly. I dont like willy nilly snake oil purveyors trying to F up my project.....This dude leaves the willy and the nilly to the birds and does not steer me wrong. I came to learn. I learned. Me happy 😊. Notice his hand and movement while he is polishing the nib after grinding. This is the mark of a gentleman who has never had time for B.S. Nay....The mark of a pedigree weaned unto the philosophy of smarter not harder. Professor asks, 'Done?' His answer, you can be damn sure, is 'Yes sir! Of course and with indentation! '
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