About 5 years ago my grandfather (age 84) bought a lifeboat exactly like this one to renovate. He did get it emptied and God knows what before he passed away. I love seeing you renovate this one.
Once you get a stove, beds floor, deck on top, and all the amenities on board it should ride a little lower in the water I would put all of that in, I love this lifeboat.
Thanks for the great video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music while you're talking. I don't know why some people feel compelled to add annoying background music throughout the video.
Friendly tip on how to get underweight lifeboats to manouver better: Have them slightly trimmed by the stern. Makes a huge difference, like shoes vs iceskates on ice.
You've made the best decision by buying this TELB, which makes for a superb base on which to modify, outfit and equip to meet your specific needs. By sharing your findings and experiences you add to the knowledge base of TELB owners, modifiers and liveaboards!
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Great video. I've been starting to research this unique vessels. Looking forward to future episodes. Will you be adding auxiliary fuel tanks? Thanks
I’m a Survival Craft Instructor based at Warsash Maritime School on the South Coast and have been recommended your videos by “The Algorithm”! One thing to consider regarding the ballast and stability is that these craft were designed to perform at optimum when fully laden with crew. In 2010, the calculated weight per occupant was changed from 75kg pp to 82.5kg pp, so dependant on the year she was built, you could calculate the expectant load of the occupants. We have found with our PELB and TEMPSCs that due to a restriction in capacity for training and removal of equipment from manufacture to convert to a training aid, weight needs to be distributed astern to get the best efficiency from the propeller. The flip side of this is that steering becomes lighter and less predictable due to the bow sitting higher in the water.
This is really helpful, thank you. There's so much obvious focus on getting the trim right port and starboard, but I'll put a lot of effort into getting it right fore and aft.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals You’re most welcome. It’s a interesting project and one I’ll be following closely. I’m guessing there’ll be plenty of supplies that can be stored around the boat to help find that correct trim. Reducing cavitation will dramatically improve speed, fuel efficiency and handling. The ducted propellor, should help with that a fair bit.
Top tip to paint it, first use a coat of bright yellow and then an orange coat. The best quality paint is de IJssel Double D coating, mosreal professionalt
Those design issues are a dream come true for my brain. I love building things in my mind and then putting them into practice for the results. I suppose problems are my friend.
You could probably put a number of solar panels across the top to take some power load off of the engine, Maybe some retractable outriggers to counter some of the rocking at lighter loads. and would provide extra storage and area to move about.
Have you considered using a high performance anti fouling paint on the hull for better fuel economy? Large ocean going vessels can save a million dollars a year from one coating to another.
bolt an I-beam along the wee keel already there, with the flanges on the lower edge serving as a base when on blocks. You gain much needed keel stability of holding a course, the extra weight there helps with ballasting / loading. Composite ridges on the bottom angled and extending to the outer edge of the hull are an effective stabilizer for the basic hull shape, without trying to add active fins, gyroscope or paravanes.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals www.pacificboatbrokers.com/used-boats-for-sale/LS5377/trawler-groundfish-shrimp-boat.asp the pictures show the "ridge", although they are not very wide they are a stabilizer, wider gives more effect naturally but it is a balance.
Can you add a mast for a sail (without damaging the structure)? A sail could really help to extend your range/add a backup if the engine fails. Also helps with radio antenna. For a keel, perhaps an external board? Probably very obvious ideas.
This is an interesting project. With cooking, heating, and even breathing, I imagine condensation will have to be something to overcome. The grey matter will certainly be taxed with this conversion.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals hmmm, ~_~ Pontoons in mated pairs on each side for a total of four. these could be quick pin detached then floated behind the main hull. Have the attaching boom arms hinged so each set that can be raised. This would give you a Trimaran set-up for open water. But allow for narrow passage navigation in ice fields when needed.
Even fully loaded you will need the keel ballast - we did the 4 years crossing Europe to the Black Sea without it, with the boat loaded, and it made such a difference to add half a ton in Hamburg. Build space in now #boatingeurope :)
Thanks. Yes this footage was actually filmed some time ago (the footage was previously embargoed for other uses). I now have zones allocated for solid steel ballast, and will cover this in a much later video. Cheers!
Your boat has a displacement hull, which means it's top speed is limited to six knots, based on its length at the waterline. At the hull's top speed, adding more power simply digs a deeper hole at the stern to climb out of. Exta power is useful for rough water and headwinds.
a 10 HP SAAB with moving propeller is a good solution.less diesel and easy handling,because you use one direction for forward and backwards. verry good for manovering in small spaces arround.You move the propellerblades instead more or less gas.
Hi, great video. Have you thought about getting a 2nd lifeboat and linking them together to form a catamaran? They would need to be about 5 metres apart to avoid hull wave interaction, so a deck structure out of scaffold or better still stainless 304L with expanded metal galvanised decking would give you a good working platform (I use galv decking on my boat and it has held up very well). Best of all build in some buoyancy to the deck structure and bolt it to the lifeboats and then you can fit a mast and lifting keel and should you capsize, you unbolt the lifeboats, let them self right themselves and then bolt the whole lot back together again. It will make for a stable, safe boat with tons of storage and deck space.
I didn't realize how small Alan was until seeing him on the water with a person onboard. It's amazing to think that tiny vessel could possibly be "rated" for 68 people!!! It looks like one would be hard pressed to get half that number in there!!!
Asking from professional curiosity, did you contact local coast guard/VTS before going for sea trials? It seemed that you went quite far out to the sea. I know from experience, that any sight of orange rescue boat would get the crew of a vessel a bit anxious and report it to nearest station. More diligent crew even could start preparations for rescue situation.
Hi Sander - the sea trial was only a very short coastal circuit, and the marks designating Alan as an in-service lifeboat were covered/removed. Whilst it's conceivable Alan's appearance, even after major physical alterations, could cause some radio chatter, we would be able to allay any concerns as we monitor the correct radio channel.
I made a 6.5 ft long boat, 28 inches wide, 10 inch sides out of a folded 4x8 ft piece of corplast. Weighs 4 lb and cam hold 250 lbs. In reinforcing it with ski poles, crutches and 1/4 ply for a lake one mile away. Fits in trunk of car, sticking out. I may add a sail and a float bar to stop tipping. Cheers
Have you thought about adding additional - not sure what you call them, additional strips of fiberglass below the waterline to promote tracking? I was wonder also about the deck area by the rear hatch, seems very narrow - have you thought about adding an extension to that area? Cheers !
Having probably a dozen hours going back and forth to a cruise ship I have encountered 30 degree rolls in a boat with about 60 other people. Several who were instantly sick. I am betting that stability and its cure are going to be your number one problem.
Very interesting. With such a short ‘keel’ is it possible to intentionally beach it on a sandy beach and it stay upright? Keep up the adventure! Looking forward to the mission. Safe sailing
This is an exciting venture! I'm not sea-farer, so I'm just ignorantly wondering if it would be possible to somehow arrange a tow to save on fuel? Like from a cargo ship heading in the same direction? Obviously, I have no idea if this kind of thing would even be practical or possible to arrange?
I suppose if you were able to have permission - but that would be doubtful. I'm also not sure of how the boat would behave if towed at more than its maximum hull speed.
You could also make the engine a hybrid system. Put some electric motors strapped to the outside with some big batteries and solar panels to help keep them charged, and the engine and solar panels can keep the batteries able to run, while reducing fuel consumtion. :-)
Top speed is a function of waterline, unless you get on a plane. Hull speed in knots = 1.35 times the square root of the waterline in feet. Your length is nearly 25 feet and supposing waterline is 20 feet, your hull speed is almost exactly 6 knots
Why not use a lead ballast keel attached to the bottom where you removed all the old iron hardware? I realize, as you said that's dead weight, but making it lead and mounted on the bottom would give you the most stability for the minimum weight, while using points which were obviously engineered to take a lot more force than the keel would ever apply.
Actually, most of that dead weight was higher up, mounted on the boat, and it was awkward in size and shape. The plan is to add denser, more manageable ballast right down low in the coming months.
Ya, sorry for the confusion, I didn't mean mount it in the same place, just using those mounting points. If they're strong enough to lift the whole boat without damage, a keel would be nothing. You'd of course have to build some kind of mounting brackets to wrap around under the ship to where you want the weight mounted.
Question: having done your sea trial and determined that Alan rocks and rolls a bit do you envisage adding ballast or maybe a small keel. I watched the haul out after the trial and it looks as though a keel may be possible but you wont want to over come the self righting feature. There may be a small lee way there to add something to negate the rock and roll.
There is a company that fabricates fold down "keels" that are mounted to the side of yachts to limit rolling and to give a smoother sail. Perhaps an idea like that might help.
I've looked at some of these options - spinning anti-rollers are very expensive and power hungry. Passive ones are more possible, but there's robustness to consider.
Hey, I'm a naval architect who has actually studied how ship's lifeboats act in ice packs. Add "bilge keels" (or sometimes called "anti roll chocks") Just long fins at about 45 degrees to the bilge radius, about 12" sticking out x say 8' long. Could be fiberglass or alum. alloy or s.s. plate bolted to the hull. They can reduce roll by about 30-40% or so will little cost. If you're heading into real pack ice they will be torn off so make sure if they fail they don't damage the hull. Well pack ice will crush a lifeboat so avoid it too!
@@AlexHibbertOriginals This research paper gives a good overview of issues with operating TEMPSC's in pack ice nrc-publications.canada.ca/eng/view/ft/?id=e1396097-84b5-4981-a127-b1707733f262 Basically they spent a lot of time whacking lifeboats into ice :)
Is Alan going to be a boat you have long term? If so then you should consider some type of fresh water cooling system. Maybe a keel cooler pipe or the addition of a heat exchanger and expansion tank. Also consider installing zinks both externally and in the engine cooling system. These are things likely not heavily considered during building a lifeboat. As they are meant to live on deco of a ship and only rarely touch water. So they’re likely not built to last while sitting in salt water. If this is a one time expedition boat that will then retire to a UK canal then your fine.
Alan will spend most of his time ashore, but is slated for multiple longer excursions. The engine currently already has a keel water cooling system for the engine. Is that what you meant?
@@AlexHibbertOriginals yes ok. I just didn’t see a heat exchanger and it’s integral expansion tank. Which are commonly (but not always) integrated into the exhaust manifold. But if you have keel cooling then that’s probably why I didn’t see it. As long as your engine has antifreeze in it rather then sea water then you’re going to be just fine. If that’s the case then disregard my comment on cooling. I was just wanting to make sure you are setting yourself up for safety and reliability. FYI once you get closer to knowing your final weight you’ll be able to have a prop shop adjust the pitch if you want a little more speed at lower RPM. They can cup the blades. Not as good as a new prop but it’s all a cost vs benefit thing. Definitely check you have zinks. I didn’t see them but that doesn’t mean they aren’t there. I’m really looking forward to watching this build progress. Cheers, Jeremy
im sorry if this is redundant, but how do you prevent Alan from rolling over or capsizing? He doesn't have a large wing under the keel.. thank you in advance
Stupid question time, I’m assuming fuel equals ballast (some), as you use up fuel will you take on water to replace ballast? I know little about boats, this just cropped up on my feed.
It does. The most elevated fuel bladders/tanks will be consumed first, so CoG will improve and lower as time goes on. The fore/aft weight balancing between a laden and empty boat will be key to plan for.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals The VCG really affects roll periods. As it gets lower, the boar becomes more stable but the roll period gets faster. You might want a period of about 6 seconds (test by running back and forth with the boats roll and get it rolling at its natural frequency and then time say 5 full roll cycles, dividing by 5 to determine roll period for 1 cycle). A faster roll period means more stable, but is not as comfortable. Slower than 6 seconds or so means it doesn't have a lot of stability...If you are carrying lots of fuel then adding back water ballast as fuel is consumed is probably required, but maybe not the full weight of the fuel.
The hull shape is best for safety amongst sea ice, but as you say it will not aid sea handling. I plan to test whether significant ballast is enough. And yes on the power front - a number of ideas for backup power. To be announced!
These are actually called TEMPSCs Totally Enclosed Motor Propelled Survival Craft. Not TELB. As you have taken out the air bottles for pressurising and stopping smoke ingress, you could remove the water spray pipework from the deck too.
TELB and TEMPSC are terms for the same thing. TEMPSC was coined by the USCG mid last century. Neither are wrong. The spray pipework is proving useful for all manner of things.
Been thinking of getting a lifeboat for ages though plan diagrams are hard to find. Are you aware of any sources online? What model is this one please? When you say partly insulated - roughly how thick is it on the sidewalls and tinnest part of the deckhead on this model? Looking forward to future instalments of the build process, thanks for sharing the experience!
I put some tech details in the video descriptions. It's a Normar 7.5m. There are precious few online resources, and companies don't tend to supply info to second-hand TELB owners as they don't really approve of them being sold off to the public. The foam thickness varies as it lies beneath the seating areas. In general, between 4 and 10 inches.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Thanks for the info! Cheeky additional question: Under the floor below the tanks how far down is the keel? It looks curved as if its almost down in the bilges though I'd imagine there's keel cooling under there somewhere?
Yes, the 'floor' is curved under the racking area. Check out the end of Ep1 and you'll see. It'll just be 15mm of so of hull, and the keel section directly attached.There's no other voids or compartments directly on the bottom of the boat.
![Lifeboat Conversion Ep4: Insulation [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3OSNdMT8cMk/mqdefault.jpg)
![Lifeboat Conversion Ep4: Insulation [4K]](/img/tr.png)
Like your straight and to the point of your video, no BS is very refreshing. Thanks
Very true
About 5 years ago my grandfather (age 84) bought a lifeboat exactly like this one to renovate. He did get it emptied and God knows what before he passed away. I love seeing you renovate this one.
I'm sure it's sat safely somewhere, ready for someone's time and attention!
I love the lack of adverts half way through so thank you 🙏
Well, I do plug books at the end. ;)
Ten4
Haha you’re going to start a trend of tiny houseboats with this series
I do think the trend is already well apace!
@@AlexHibbertOriginals respect for you not claiming it.
Once you get a stove, beds floor, deck on top, and all the amenities on board it should ride a little lower in the water I would put all of that in, I love this lifeboat.
I'm on board with the subscription and interest.
Please don't add any music, you're doing great
Thanks for the great video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music while you're talking. I don't know why some people feel compelled to add annoying background music throughout the video.
I dont know how i found this, but im glad i did. Cant wait to see more of Allan.
Friendly tip on how to get underweight lifeboats to manouver better:
Have them slightly trimmed by the stern. Makes a huge difference, like shoes vs iceskates on ice.
Much appreciated
You've made the best decision by buying this TELB, which makes for a superb base on which to modify, outfit and equip to meet your specific needs.
By sharing your findings and experiences you add to the knowledge base of TELB owners, modifiers and liveaboards!
My thinking indeed, and I do hope to contribute.
This looks like a great project, really looking forward to future episodes!
Thanks
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Great video. I've been starting to research this unique vessels.
Looking forward to future episodes.
Will you be adding auxiliary fuel tanks? Thanks
@@SpectrumVans Yes - check out Ep6 for details.
You had me at "decorating the inside of the boat"!!! GLORIOUS!!!
I’m a Survival Craft Instructor based at Warsash Maritime School on the South Coast and have been recommended your videos by “The Algorithm”!
One thing to consider regarding the ballast and stability is that these craft were designed to perform at optimum when fully laden with crew. In 2010, the calculated weight per occupant was changed from 75kg pp to 82.5kg pp, so dependant on the year she was built, you could calculate the expectant load of the occupants.
We have found with our PELB and TEMPSCs that due to a restriction in capacity for training and removal of equipment from manufacture to convert to a training aid, weight needs to be distributed astern to get the best efficiency from the propeller. The flip side of this is that steering becomes lighter and less predictable due to the bow sitting higher in the water.
This is really helpful, thank you. There's so much obvious focus on getting the trim right port and starboard, but I'll put a lot of effort into getting it right fore and aft.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals You’re most welcome. It’s a interesting project and one I’ll be following closely. I’m guessing there’ll be plenty of supplies that can be stored around the boat to help find that correct trim. Reducing cavitation will dramatically improve speed, fuel efficiency and handling. The ducted propellor, should help with that a fair bit.
I would add some shield in the front or sides for when going into the artic ice or smashing into solid objects
The only seagoing this thing should be doing is on golden pond
Top tip to paint it, first use a coat of bright yellow and then an orange coat.
The best quality paint is de IJssel Double D coating, mosreal professionalt
Interesting tip, thanks
Those design issues are a dream come true for my brain. I love building things in my mind and then putting them into practice for the results. I suppose problems are my friend.
She does have some serious roll. Do you plan any ballast underneath, because it could become quite uncomfortable over a long period of time.
You could probably put a number of solar panels across the top to take some power load off of the engine, Maybe some retractable outriggers to counter some of the rocking at lighter loads. and would provide extra storage and area to move about.
Get a RSJ aluminium and use it for a keel,bilge keels good as well stops the rolling I've had 6 life boats with and without keels.
Love these videos man. You’re witty as hell
"didnt want to end up in Alan upside down in the ocean" love it mate... quality little channel, a touch of theroux!
Glad you enjoyed it
Well done, I would like to built one of those for lodgement, you’re my hero!
Steady on!
Brilliant Project, glad to see somebody local! Hopefully one day I can see you from Southend!
Next sea trial next month I suspect.
Yes I skipped all. Thanks for asking
Cheers, Alan is a great name for that vessel!
Have you considered using a high performance anti fouling paint on the hull for better fuel economy? Large ocean going vessels can save a million dollars a year from one coating to another.
Very reassuring having an essentially wave proof boat.
To make it more stable in the water add a seakeeper gyro or perhaps build one?
You could always add additional skegs underneith. These could be used as runners for any over land travel that might be required.
Also otter boards.
Something oft-debated. We'll do another episode on the topic.
bolt an I-beam along the wee keel already there, with the flanges on the lower edge serving as a base when on blocks. You gain much needed keel stability of holding a course, the extra weight there helps with ballasting / loading.
Composite ridges on the bottom angled and extending to the outer edge of the hull are an effective stabilizer for the basic hull shape, without trying to add active fins, gyroscope or paravanes.
Interesting - thanks
@@AlexHibbertOriginals www.pacificboatbrokers.com/used-boats-for-sale/LS5377/trawler-groundfish-shrimp-boat.asp
the pictures show the "ridge", although they are not very wide they are a stabilizer, wider gives more effect naturally but it is a balance.
Can you add a mast for a sail (without damaging the structure)? A sail could really help to extend your range/add a backup if the engine fails. Also helps with radio antenna. For a keel, perhaps an external board? Probably very obvious ideas.
I've looked at gyro-parawings, but cost is prohibitive. Sails - nope. It would mean a fundamental design rethink.
Im the captain now
This is an interesting project. With cooking, heating, and even breathing, I imagine condensation will have to be something to overcome. The grey matter will certainly be taxed with this conversion.
Yes, the ventilation system is for a later video.
To lessen the roll and provide both stability and fuel/supply storage a pair of Aluminum outrigger pontoons made from a used pontoon boat..
Unless easily retracted, they would be susceptible in icy waters. The fixings to brace them to the hull would mean very serious structural work.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals hmmm, ~_~ Pontoons in mated pairs on each side for a total of four. these could be quick pin detached then floated behind the main hull. Have the attaching boom arms hinged so each set that can be raised. This would give you a Trimaran set-up for open water. But allow for narrow passage navigation in ice fields when needed.
@@ditzydoo4378 Certainly worth some thought, thanks.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals your welcome.. ^~^
Stumbled upon your great project! Will you give her a keel so she won't drift? Even with a load she will be a wind catcher.
Absolutely brilliant
Even fully loaded you will need the keel ballast - we did the 4 years crossing Europe to the Black Sea without it, with the boat loaded, and it made such a difference to add half a ton in Hamburg. Build space in now #boatingeurope :)
Thanks. Yes this footage was actually filmed some time ago (the footage was previously embargoed for other uses). I now have zones allocated for solid steel ballast, and will cover this in a much later video. Cheers!
We have added your channel to the featured channels on the bootm of th-cam.com/users/boatingeurope going to go ask all the lifeboat channels.
Was it the Norwegian one you bought in the end?
yes the Normar
@@AlexHibbertOriginals An excellent choice!
Looking forward to the electronics and batteries selection
It's quite a topic!
Your boat has a displacement hull, which means it's top speed is limited to six knots, based on its length at the waterline. At the hull's top speed, adding more power simply digs a deeper hole at the stern to climb out of. Exta power is useful for rough water and headwinds.
Once we have Alan up on the plane we can surely squeeze 20 or 30 knots out of those 48 horses.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals at those speeds, you guys can water ski.
a 10 HP SAAB with moving propeller is a good solution.less diesel and easy handling,because you use one direction for forward and backwards. verry good for manovering in small spaces arround.You move the propellerblades instead more or less gas.
Would be great on the intercoastal water ways.
Hi, great video. Have you thought about getting a 2nd lifeboat and linking them together to form a catamaran? They would need to be about 5 metres apart to avoid hull wave interaction, so a deck structure out of scaffold or better still stainless 304L with expanded metal galvanised decking would give you a good working platform (I use galv decking on my boat and it has held up very well). Best of all build in some buoyancy to the deck structure and bolt it to the lifeboats and then you can fit a mast and lifting keel and should you capsize, you unbolt the lifeboats, let them self right themselves and then bolt the whole lot back together again. It will make for a stable, safe boat with tons of storage and deck space.
That would require more than a 10min video!
I find this very cool and enjoyable to watch
I didn't realize how small Alan was until seeing him on the water with a person onboard. It's amazing to think that tiny vessel could possibly be "rated" for 68 people!!! It looks like one would be hard pressed to get half that number in there!!!
Yeah 7.5m isn't tiny (some are 5.5m) but not a monster either. 68 people wouldn't have a good day in there.
With your center of gravity so high did you plan about designing some weighted keels or perhaps a pontoon.
Ballast yes - pontoon no!
Asking from professional curiosity, did you contact local coast guard/VTS before going for sea trials? It seemed that you went quite far out to the sea. I know from experience, that any sight of orange rescue boat would get the crew of a vessel a bit anxious and report it to nearest station. More diligent crew even could start preparations for rescue situation.
Hi Sander - the sea trial was only a very short coastal circuit, and the marks designating Alan as an in-service lifeboat were covered/removed. Whilst it's conceivable Alan's appearance, even after major physical alterations, could cause some radio chatter, we would be able to allay any concerns as we monitor the correct radio channel.
Also make sure as supplies are used it will stay balanced.
“Alan was ready for having his innards drilled” 😳🥵
put a large removable keel on it, maybe a folding upper deck as well- do you can sit topside with a little more room to spread out
I made a 6.5 ft long boat, 28 inches wide, 10 inch sides out of a folded 4x8 ft piece of corplast.
Weighs 4 lb and cam hold 250 lbs.
In reinforcing it with ski poles, crutches and 1/4 ply for a lake one mile away.
Fits in trunk of car, sticking out.
I may add a sail and a float bar to stop tipping.
Cheers
Have you thought about adding additional - not sure what you call them, additional strips of fiberglass below the waterline to promote tracking? I was wonder also about the deck area by the rear hatch, seems very narrow - have you thought about adding an extension to that area? Cheers !
I'm unsure about adding much below the waterline as it can be vulnerable to ice. A stern extension? Not for now, but on a 'maybe' list...
dude rolling is the one you dont want. Ballast is your friend
This thing is almost as cool as a Wallypower 118.
to keep from rolling....you can put on retractable side floats like you see on some canoes. One one each side pulled up until needed.
I am the Captain!
Having probably a dozen hours going back and forth to a cruise ship I have encountered 30 degree rolls in a boat with about 60 other people. Several who were instantly sick. I am betting that stability and its cure are going to be your number one problem.
You're not wrong. Sickness patches at the ready on the first proper sea trials whilst countermeasures are planned.
GOD is in control!!!! Hallelujah praise GOD!!!
Alan is in control.
have you reached out the designers and engineers that created the boat?
They routinely don't engage with users of decommissioned TELBs. No commercial incentive, and perhaps legal liability.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals What a shame. Keep uploading. The Internet will hook you up ;-)
Any thoughts of reinforcing the bow to deal with the potential of encountering random sea ice?
Many thoughts - no decisions just yet.
Best luck - waiting for more :-)
Thank you 😀
Did you end up getting the Chinese one or the Norwegian life boat. It looks great! Like new!
The Norwegian - a Normar.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals i wouldn't want a Chinese lifeboat either
Very interesting. With such a short ‘keel’ is it possible to intentionally beach it on a sandy beach and it stay upright? Keep up the adventure! Looking forward to the mission. Safe sailing
Certainly possible, although you'd be lucky to sit perfectly upright. On ice, supports will be needed.
Every person you meet you could say:
"we've been at sea for months!"
Ain't that the truth.
Can't wait to see you get big brother!!! Don't forget me when you hit 100,000 Subscribers. This build will get alot of media views.
I have to admit I'm pleasantly surprised at the acceleration in views!
How much old use life boat prices?
I don't know why, but I really want one of these lol
This is an exciting venture! I'm not sea-farer, so I'm just ignorantly wondering if it would be possible to somehow arrange a tow to save on fuel? Like from a cargo ship heading in the same direction? Obviously, I have no idea if this kind of thing would even be practical or possible to arrange?
I suppose if you were able to have permission - but that would be doubtful. I'm also not sure of how the boat would behave if towed at more than its maximum hull speed.
You could also make the engine a hybrid system. Put some electric motors strapped to the outside with some big batteries and solar panels to help keep them charged, and the engine and solar panels can keep the batteries able to run, while reducing fuel consumtion. :-)
The solar panels would need to be around 10x the size of the boat.
Re stabilizers. Look at bilge keels made from Fiberglass down each side. They Fill with water and stabilize boat and stops boat from sailing.
Thanks Joe - they are near the top of the list of options to optimise sea-handling.
Great choice of names. I missed as to whether this was the Chinese or Norwegian boat.
The Norwegian Normar
Thank you for you video!
Can these boats travel up canals or are they too big?
Would adding a keel and or outriggers help?
Top speed is a function of waterline, unless you get on a plane. Hull speed in knots = 1.35 times the square root of the waterline in feet. Your length is nearly 25 feet and supposing waterline is 20 feet, your hull speed is almost exactly 6 knots
Yep that's almost exactly what's borne out in practice on more recent trials.
Great Project.
Howmany persons could be brought ?
For Safety of Life at Sea.
Good Luck !
👍 ⚓️
Officially it could take 68 people with all the seating it came with. I'm designing it for three to live on with relative comfort.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals big idea 👍.
I was a seaman in the past.
Thank you Alex H.
great project and nice to see it at dauntless by the way :)
I'm glad you like it. The crew at Dauntless are excellent.
Why not use a lead ballast keel attached to the bottom where you removed all the old iron hardware? I realize, as you said that's dead weight, but making it lead and mounted on the bottom would give you the most stability for the minimum weight, while using points which were obviously engineered to take a lot more force than the keel would ever apply.
Actually, most of that dead weight was higher up, mounted on the boat, and it was awkward in size and shape. The plan is to add denser, more manageable ballast right down low in the coming months.
Ya, sorry for the confusion, I didn't mean mount it in the same place, just using those mounting points.
If they're strong enough to lift the whole boat without damage, a keel would be nothing.
You'd of course have to build some kind of mounting brackets to wrap around under the ship to where you want the weight mounted.
Have you not considered the idea of putting a bit blast in the boat for when your running slight on fule and supply's?
Certainly have! Will detail later.
Question: having done your sea trial and determined that Alan rocks and rolls a bit do you envisage adding ballast or maybe a small keel. I watched the haul out after the trial and it looks as though a keel may be possible but you wont want to over come the self righting feature. There may be a small lee way there to add something to negate the rock and roll.
It's oft-discussed in these comments sections. Watch this space!
There is a company that fabricates fold down "keels" that are mounted to the side of yachts to limit rolling and to give a smoother sail. Perhaps an idea like that might help.
I've looked at some of these options - spinning anti-rollers are very expensive and power hungry. Passive ones are more possible, but there's robustness to consider.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals brain not wuk gud there, sorry. proper name this time, Leeboard(s)
I wonder how much it rolls when there are waves.
A lot! Something to be tackled later on.
Hey, I'm a naval architect who has actually studied how ship's lifeboats act in ice packs. Add "bilge keels" (or sometimes called "anti roll chocks") Just long fins at about 45 degrees to the bilge radius, about 12" sticking out x say 8' long. Could be fiberglass or alum. alloy or s.s. plate bolted to the hull. They can reduce roll by about 30-40% or so will little cost. If you're heading into real pack ice they will be torn off so make sure if they fail they don't damage the hull. Well pack ice will crush a lifeboat so avoid it too!
@@AlexHibbertOriginals This research paper gives a good overview of issues with operating TEMPSC's in pack ice nrc-publications.canada.ca/eng/view/ft/?id=e1396097-84b5-4981-a127-b1707733f262 Basically they spent a lot of time whacking lifeboats into ice :)
@@evangatehouse5650 Thanks - yes had a good read of this and others in the lead up to the purchase.
@@evangatehouse5650 Thoughts on this? seagrant.uaf.edu/bookstore/boatkeeper/bilge-keels.pdf
What was the cost of the boat?
Is Alan going to be a boat you have long term? If so then you should consider some type of fresh water cooling system. Maybe a keel cooler pipe or the addition of a heat exchanger and expansion tank. Also consider installing zinks both externally and in the engine cooling system.
These are things likely not heavily considered during building a lifeboat. As they are meant to live on deco of a ship and only rarely touch water. So they’re likely not built to last while sitting in salt water.
If this is a one time expedition boat that will then retire to a UK canal then your fine.
Alan will spend most of his time ashore, but is slated for multiple longer excursions. The engine currently already has a keel water cooling system for the engine. Is that what you meant?
@@AlexHibbertOriginals yes ok. I just didn’t see a heat exchanger and it’s integral expansion tank. Which are commonly (but not always) integrated into the exhaust manifold. But if you have keel cooling then that’s probably why I didn’t see it.
As long as your engine has antifreeze in it rather then sea water then you’re going to be just fine. If that’s the case then disregard my comment on cooling.
I was just wanting to make sure you are setting yourself up for safety and reliability.
FYI once you get closer to knowing your final weight you’ll be able to have a prop shop adjust the pitch if you want a little more speed at lower RPM. They can cup the blades. Not as good as a new prop but it’s all a cost vs benefit thing.
Definitely check you have zinks. I didn’t see them but that doesn’t mean they aren’t there.
I’m really looking forward to watching this build progress.
Cheers,
Jeremy
You culd make the film 10min long and I promise I vuld not get bored. Intresting project 👍👌
im sorry if this is redundant, but how do you prevent Alan from rolling over or capsizing? He doesn't have a large wing under the keel.. thank you in advance
It's self righting due to the layout of weight and internal buoyancy foam.
This is very interesting!
How about a heavy steel keel to carry fuel and ballast the boat? You could even get clever and fit a lining so the space could be filled with water.
Steel is going to be the solution, but precise placement will need another sea trial.
Stupid question time, I’m assuming fuel equals ballast (some), as you use up fuel will you take on water to replace ballast? I know little about boats, this just cropped up on my feed.
It does. The most elevated fuel bladders/tanks will be consumed first, so CoG will improve and lower as time goes on. The fore/aft weight balancing between a laden and empty boat will be key to plan for.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals The VCG really affects roll periods. As it gets lower, the boar becomes more stable but the roll period gets faster. You might want a period of about 6 seconds (test by running back and forth with the boats roll and get it rolling at its natural frequency and then time say 5 full roll cycles, dividing by 5 to determine roll period for 1 cycle). A faster roll period means more stable, but is not as comfortable. Slower than 6 seconds or so means it doesn't have a lot of stability...If you are carrying lots of fuel then adding back water ballast as fuel is consumed is probably required, but maybe not the full weight of the fuel.
Where is the best place to buy one?
I think creek means something different in America...
Extra weight will not stop it rolling. Why it has that hull form I cannot imagine..
Where can i buy a life boat
How lovely to see Benfleet creek in all it's glory.
Will you add a Keel to reduce rolling? Having only one method of propulsion would make me quite nervous. Oars don't seem Practical. An Outboard?
The hull shape is best for safety amongst sea ice, but as you say it will not aid sea handling. I plan to test whether significant ballast is enough. And yes on the power front - a number of ideas for backup power. To be announced!
this life boat is it safe at deep sea surley even in a heavey storm
How much was it to buy?
These are actually called TEMPSCs Totally Enclosed Motor Propelled Survival Craft. Not TELB.
As you have taken out the air bottles for pressurising and stopping smoke ingress, you could remove the water spray pipework from the deck too.
TELB and TEMPSC are terms for the same thing. TEMPSC was coined by the USCG mid last century. Neither are wrong. The spray pipework is proving useful for all manner of things.
Do they have air bottle for pressuring?? Why??
Been thinking of getting a lifeboat for ages though plan diagrams are hard to find.
Are you aware of any sources online?
What model is this one please?
When you say partly insulated - roughly how thick is it on the sidewalls and tinnest part of the deckhead on this model?
Looking forward to future instalments of the build process, thanks for sharing the experience!
I put some tech details in the video descriptions. It's a Normar 7.5m. There are precious few online resources, and companies don't tend to supply info to second-hand TELB owners as they don't really approve of them being sold off to the public. The foam thickness varies as it lies beneath the seating areas. In general, between 4 and 10 inches.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals
Thanks for the info!
Cheeky additional question:
Under the floor below the tanks how far down is the keel?
It looks curved as if its almost down in the bilges though I'd imagine there's keel cooling under there somewhere?
Yes, the 'floor' is curved under the racking area. Check out the end of Ep1 and you'll see. It'll just be 15mm of so of hull, and the keel section directly attached.There's no other voids or compartments directly on the bottom of the boat.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals
Thanks again. You've cleared up many questions I've had for ages.
How much did pne of these cost ?
Would stabilizers help?
I'm looking at a whole range of stability enhancers. Will be covered in detail.
How hard would it be to add a ballasted keel extension to the tiny one on the boat?
It's a definite option. A number of options being mulled over. The hull must be ice safe, so that's a factor.
methinks the same
Should you not...could you install a lowering shoal draft keel?
A few people are suggesting this - you'd solve one problem and create another - susceptibility to sea ice crush.