2 questions. 1. as the first base prep waxing, he used a high temp wax. why? why not an all-temp, or a cold wax for basic base absorption? 2. on the 2nd waxing after removing the wax he said he used a brass brush? I thought the only time you use a metal brush on the base is to totally remove wax and open up the base to accept new wax? but- it looked like the brush was actually just a stiff nylon brush... .not sure here. (I just bought a zippy new set of brushes)
he used very soft wax to clean the base, could be all temp, but must be softest possible, its only for cleaning brass/bonze/copper is for cleaning before waxing and after scraping, could be even steal brush before waxing
I use a citrus based solvent (sold under the brand name goo-gone) It's fairly safe as far as cleaners go. just use a small amount, wipe the base to remove the dirt, let it dry, then wax.
Good general overview. But you don't explain the function of the different brushes, plastic scraper vs metal scraper, and why all the thickness of wax and then scrape it off.
the first wax or hot wax is going to take out the dirt and clean out the structure. the next wax is for proper conditions and really the wax is suppose to go into the base which makes it faster and the brush is to clean out the structure (little Chanels that move water) giving you less friction which makes skiing faster and more enjoyable. any excess wax just makes more friction
Sylvester's Phone 2408 Vinnicki it depends on the condition of the snow how much but I always do one before the season starts but if your skiing a lot then you want to do it like once a week or so that’s my opinion
For some reason I want wax my own ski now. It just looks so satisfying but I don't really know if clamping down the ski + the heat is such an great idea
hot scrapes and uses base cleaner.... REMOVES ALL THE WAX AND SPEED FROM THE SKI PEOPLE. DOING THIS MEANS YOU HAVE TO START OVER AND PREP THE SKI AS IF IT WERE BRAND NEW
depending on the condtions you are skiing sometimes it is needed to remove all the gunk and grime. especially late season when the bottom of the ski's look like they have a layer of tar on them.
Seriously what's the point? Wax isn't the type of substance that soaks into things!it covers then, but he scraped it off......it doesn't soak in! How is wax going to soak in to that plastic covers with clear coat!?? No not happening.
@@rudyrosales6364 it does soak in. The bases of all skis (for the most part) have tiny pores in them designed to let wax in. The liquid wax soaks into the pores and the excess is scraped off.
@@ncramz1662 less like pores and more like pitted surfaces and scrapes from running over ice, rocks, branches etc. also, think of it like putting bondo on a car. or spackle on sheetrock. you lay down a thick layer, to make sure everything is filled and level, then you sand it down nice and smooth. the hot scrape also helps remove all the dirt, and grime that gets trapped in the wax increasing friction. the hot wax and scrape lifts all of it up to the surface so that you can then scrape it off. before putting on fresh wax. and different temp wax will work better at different temp snow.
Thanks for sharing! Use the CH10 wax for the warm wax.
As a racer/couch, I start with sharpening then brushing,wax, let cool, scrape, brush and complete. Once a week or ever second.
2 questions. 1. as the first base prep waxing, he used a high temp wax. why? why not an all-temp, or a cold wax for basic base absorption? 2. on the 2nd waxing after removing the wax he said he used a brass brush? I thought the only time you use a metal brush on the base is to totally remove wax and open up the base to accept new wax? but- it looked like the brush was actually just a stiff nylon brush... .not sure here. (I just bought a zippy new set of brushes)
he used very soft wax to clean the base, could be all temp, but must be softest possible, its only for cleaning
brass/bonze/copper is for cleaning before waxing and after scraping, could be even steal brush before waxing
so does the base cleaner remove all the old wax or just the gunk and dirt? and do you need to base clean every time before waxing?
Can you remove dried-on wax by reheating it with an iron, ie, not scraping it off while dry? Thanks!
Cant see the point why
Is the fiberlene important?
He didn’t explain what that solvent was to clean the base..what was it and what else can you use?
I use a citrus based solvent (sold under the brand name goo-gone) It's fairly safe as far as cleaners go. just use a small amount, wipe the base to remove the dirt, let it dry, then wax.
Good general overview. But you don't explain the function of the different brushes, plastic scraper vs metal scraper, and why all the thickness of wax and then scrape it off.
Yeah this video really needs more explanation of what exactly he's doing.
what's name of those two clamps to hold board? where to buy? Thanks!
they're easy to find on amazon. not exactly cheap, but useful. look up "ski tuning vise"
Do you ever use a cork to brush after scraping or is that passé? Old technique?
you use a cork if you use rub on wax
Use a ski glide instead
Does anyone have an opinion on horse hair brushes? Is it a substitute for the nylon?
What's the point of scraping all the wax after you put it on ?
You're a ski amateur, aren't you?
If it comes to ski waxing YES. What's your explonation for a question ?
the first wax or hot wax is going to take out the dirt and clean out the structure. the next wax is for proper conditions and really the wax is suppose to go into the base which makes it faster and the brush is to clean out the structure (little Chanels that move water) giving you less friction which makes skiing faster and more enjoyable. any excess wax just makes more friction
Okay . How long it would last?
Sylvester's Phone 2408 Vinnicki it depends on the condition of the snow how much but I always do one before the season starts but if your skiing a lot then you want to do it like once a week or so that’s my opinion
I’ve never skied yet I’m watching this…
Love this comment !
screw all that type of wax, just use hertel super hot sauce. great wax for the average joe
I am confused about the types of brushes you have used.
Sttm35 brass to clean out the structure. Nylon to polish
Brass or horsehair is the most important, nylon is not necessary
Anyone know what iron he is using
It's a swix iron
I live in Florida and have never gone skiing....what am I doing
Logan Urrunaga lmao 😂
For some reason I want wax my own ski now. It just looks so satisfying but I don't really know if clamping down the ski + the heat is such an great idea
I hit 120 kmph yesterday on my Solomon rocker 2 witch has never been waxed. Will i go faster if i wax them?
Yes you will. But don't go to fast or you will time travel
@@dermaskiertehater4137 he's good. that doesn't happen until 88mph (140km/hr)
hot scrapes and uses base cleaner.... REMOVES ALL THE WAX AND SPEED FROM THE SKI PEOPLE. DOING THIS MEANS YOU HAVE TO START OVER AND PREP THE SKI AS IF IT WERE BRAND NEW
depending on the condtions you are skiing sometimes it is needed to remove all the gunk and grime. especially late season when the bottom of the ski's look like they have a layer of tar on them.
Brass brushing after the cold wax takes wax out that is in the ski⚠️
You put way more wax on than you actually need
He is selling wax - he wants you to use it by the pallet
What, no beer advertising? It just doesn't seem like an Outside® video without it. Can't the waxer just down a Coors Light® when he finishes?
whats the point of waxing if u scrape it all off. Especially 2 layers
Zar music the wax soaks into the crevasses of the ski protecting it and making it slippery
Seriously what's the point? Wax isn't the type of substance that soaks into things!it covers then, but he scraped it off......it doesn't soak in! How is wax going to soak in to that plastic covers with clear coat!?? No not happening.
@@rudyrosales6364 it does soak in. The bases of all skis (for the most part) have tiny pores in them designed to let wax in. The liquid wax soaks into the pores and the excess is scraped off.
@@ncramz1662 less like pores and more like pitted surfaces and scrapes from running over ice, rocks, branches etc. also, think of it like putting bondo on a car. or spackle on sheetrock. you lay down a thick layer, to make sure everything is filled and level, then you sand it down nice and smooth. the hot scrape also helps remove all the dirt, and grime that gets trapped in the wax increasing friction. the hot wax and scrape lifts all of it up to the surface so that you can then scrape it off. before putting on fresh wax. and different temp wax will work better at different temp snow.
@@rudyrosales6364, why do we wax our cars? Same reasoning for skis. To fill in any imperfections.
Go to woodprix website if you want to learn how to build it yourself.
I had to skip your video because I can't properly pay attention to verbal instruction while background music is playing, just fyi.
Him: puts new wax on the takes it off
Me (a noob): wtf
Nah bruh, this is over complicated. Fetish wax
LEFTY HAHAH ❤️
NEVER USE A HOT IRON ON A CLAMPED SKI. Heat and the slight bend damages the structural integrity of the ski making it soft
Lewis White you’re one of those people aren’t you
Lewis White goddamit the guy is a pro, just do what he says ffs, yes there is alternatives ways to do it, this one fine
👏👏👏👍👌🇳🇴
Save time and money - trust the pros with your skiis
J H isn’t the point of waxing yourself just that ; saving money?
If you total the cost of required tools and supplies, not to mention your time, it's probably cheaper to hire a local shop
You’re incorrrect
J H no it’s not in the Alps a complete waxing kit is 60€ (75$) going to the shop cost 20€ (sharpening and waxing), so...
Waxing is pretty easy, and kind of enjoyable- taking care of your own equipment and all. Getting the edges right is trickier.
This is so wrong on a tonne of levels
Why?
Heuu Arnesen clamping skis down while hot waxing?
tom crockart so he should have clamped them in a leaning forward position, right ? Ima was my skis, please answer
Or you could get them waxed every 3 years instead of spending hundreds on the tools you need