Link to my Amazon page www.amazon.com/shop/bevinsbricks I do make a small comission from sales on this link. 20 volt cordless dewalt set currently 40% off. amzn.to/2VICdcq 20 volt cordless dewalt drill. amzn.to/38nUka5 4ft Carpenter level Blue amzn.to/2Th2v3U quick release vise grips amzn.to/2wmGUxY screws Im using amzn.to/3cuEs92 dewalt recipocating saw amzn.to/2wpspcR dewalt 6 1/2 circular saw amzn.to/2PYFdOn MY Merch shop link. shop.spreadshirt.com/bevinsbricks Link to videos on my lego channel Bevins Bricks th-cam.com/channels/V0ncTOFl5Sg53sLNGxvi6w.html You can also now send mail to: Bevins Builds P.O. Box 510 Tecumseh, MI 49286
Had to pause at 3:26 and share a memory of a job where the homeowner walked up to me with a bar of soap and insisted she stand between myself and my box of screws so she could rub soap on each screw prior to me using it. Ivory soap , I’ll never forget it. Her husband explained a few things to me and with a tear in his eye told me she had dementia and long story short asked me to basically babysit her. Wasn’t a big deal and honestly felt more like a mission from the lord than anything. Glad you sparked that memory sir
Clear instructions well done video. Thanks for posting. I am building a non load bearing wall with a door in my garage to separate my micro workshop from the area were we park vehicles. I had questions about the dimensions to rough frame the door opening. This was perfect.
Just what I was looking for so I can continue my walls that have door openings for actual interior doors and closet’s,you make it look pretty simple thank you
Very clear and precise. Instructions on how to build a door frame. No matter whether external or interior. Your informative video Is very clear and precise. I thought I could build my door frame just like you've described in your video, however, I needed. A second opinion. You're video is very clear and most helpful. Thankyou for sharing your video with us on the TH-cam channel.😊
This video randomly popped up in my feed and I’m glad I clicked it, I checked your channel and you have a lot of random projects, SCORE!!!! Awesome channel man, looking forward to checking them out
Smart man, always use screws. I always use exterior self tapping torx screws. I swear by them. Thanks for this. I need to build a closet and this will help with the door.
My dad's the one that got me into using screws before that I always use nails but the nice thing with screws is if you make a mistake it comes apart easily and I totally agree that torques heads are the best
Got a job doing this tomarrow in a restaurant turning it into office rooms. Got the walls up just needed a lil info on the doorway since it's been awhile. Thanks for your advice cause I got it now 👍👍
10 หลายเดือนก่อน
I understood that wetting a screw (maybe nails too) simply acted as a lubricant of sorts to make it easier to screw-in preventing binding when not using a pilot home. Never heard of it preventing cracking. With a nail, especially finishing nails on fine wood, it is a trick to place nail upside down on a hard surface, and tap the sharp end of the nail point with a hammer to blunt it prevent the wood from cracking. As the sharp end can act as a chisel almost splitting the wood vs a blunt tip. Great video anyhow.
I’m a union tinnier make sure you vent the furnace for combustion air I only see one pipe,also make sure the return is ducted to larger room,that way you won’t be taking air away from furnace,also great vidio for framing I’m adding a door and didn’t know what size to make.ps ac/dc rocks.
May I recommend putting studs above door so the gap is centered? That allows a return air [12" or 14"] to be installed above door later - solid doors are nice, but they will block alot of airflow when closed.
Nice and clear video. I'm going to be adding a door into an existing wall for under-stair storage. Right now that area is inaccessible. I'm more comfortable with the carpentry part than drywallling the new "room" but this video is quite helpful. I may forego the 1/2" plywood and just choose grain direction carefully. I have a couple of 2x4s that are pretty close to quartersawn,, which should minimize any twisting or warping.
Thanks and thank you for watching. 😀 I appreciate the compliment. I would love to do podcasts or commercials and such but no idea what to do with them or what to talk about.
That’s true about the nails it also was. Cause they were dealing with harder wood and if you ever nailed oak boards specially when they were dried. Another thing was to blunt the nails so they wouldn’t split the wood. My house when it was built was of hardwood a on 12” centers also real 2 x 4s makes remodeling a chore
I always thought it was an interesting little fact. I always did it just to have nails handy. As for your house. That is awesome though be 12 on center. It must be a very strong old house. I do sympathize with you on the true 2x4 though as like you said it makes it a real pain. As if you need to add studs you have to shim them. Still though Im jelous I would love to own an older historical home as the craftsman ship in those buildings is amazing.
Bevins Builds they also used square nails and very wide boards this house was part of the settlers in Michigan being proof of staying on the land for 3 years to own it the wood is actually off the land it self. They just laid the sill on a layer of rocks. And they added 2 layers of bricks in between each stud I am assuming for draft or a rat wall. The corners are actually post and pegged. And as I remodel the outside I’m loosing the popular siding so I can insulate the walls I’d love to keep it but the time to repaint and maintenance involved. Insulation I’m sticking with a baton style Incase I ever do the inner walls. I remodeled the bathroom as that was also my issue of getting somethings to plumb and running new supply and drain lines given this house was the first to have info plumbing and electric and telephone in the area. And from what I was told was a waystop for stage coaches between Ann Arbor and Plymouth. The 2 front rooms had French doors that open all the way around to the walls so they could hold dances. It did have a lot of gas plumbing for lighting too. So yeah new construction is way easier then this old house
Yeah I can understand why its all a nightmare for you and agree I would rather have vinyl siding so you dont have the yearly painting issues. Your actually close to my area then with where you live. I commute from tecumseh to romulus daily for work.
Building my own tiny house in spring next year and this video was very helpful for my notes but, do you know any way to make a door more bear proof to keep my pets safe?
Thanks and thank you for watching. As for making an exterior door strong, the biggest thing is to make sure you use a solid core door and to make it real strong use a steel door. But also get a combo unit with a dead bolt.
So your measurement of 82” was from the concrete floor to the underside of the 2x4 header board? Which would mean the cut vertical boards were 80 1/2” long and we’re sitting on top of the 1 1:2” thick 2x4’s attached to the floor?
great video. I'm getting ready to frame out porch doors that already have a deck under them. Think I should still go 82 high or less? Thanks. You were easy to understand and thorough.
For a stud wall with aluminum supports, can one just screw the door jamb into the uprights and do you recommend any type of screws in particular?? Thanks for the informative video.
To be perfectly honest I don't have a lot of experience with metal studs. I will say this though being they are aluminum I would not screw the door frame directly to the stud. If I am not mistaken there are special support that you need to purchase for mounting door frames to the aluminum studs.
I haven’t seen this method for making a header before with the 2-2x4 and 1/2” ply. My house only uses 1-2x4 as the door headers. You said you do this to keep them from twisting....is that to keep the header from twisting or the jack/king studs?? I want to frame a closet door for a larger door. I plan on purchasing a prehung 8’ double sided mirrored door....do you have any special suggestions? Not sure if the weight of the door would be significantly different and if I should take any special considerations into account for this when constructing the frame
I personally have never seen a door framed without this type of header or thicker meaning 2x6, 2x8 or more but that method is reserved for load bearing walls. Anytime you have a window or door installed the proper framing calls for a minimum of a 2x4 header as well as the king and jack studs. The purpose of this is to keep the header from twisting and warping and causing issues with the door frame. Im sure you can get away with just doing a 2x4 but I was taught to make all headers in this fashion. As for your situation with a prehung door, no there isnt any other special framing that would be required. Except what I already show. 😀 hope this helps.
Ok, so the prehung door I got from home depot is a 36 x 80, but it says "rough opening 38.5 x 82.5" on the frane's label. Do I add 2 inches to the 38.5?
To me when I rough frame I always only add 2 inches to all diameters but it is common for 2.5 inches of slop. As most rough in holes are not square and level. But when I am doing my own framing my openings are all plum and square. To answer your specific question though no do not add anything. They are just suggesting the rough opening size for the 36 inch door. The 2.5 inches is already added to that demension.
This is actually a useful video, to hear the dimension calculations, worrying about the flooring, the process and the finished result. Thanks for making it. However, I would say that it would be better if you used the proper terminology for all the parts of the framing, You mentioned some, bottom plate and header. The other important terms are king stud - the full length 2x4's. Trim (jack) stud - the side 2x4's that support the header. Cripple studs - the short studs above the header. And finally, the top plate. Using the proper carpenter terms is just a good thing to do to help spread the knowledge effectively through time to others.
Its npt required to be, If I have space I screw them in on the end thru the king stud. If not then I screw them in diagonally, of I understand your question correctly.
Yes and no, it would still be the same construction but when doing it for load-bearing I prefer to use 2 by 6 on the header for a standard opening (36" door) and 2x8 for wider doors and use an extra king stud. It's also important to note that the cripple studs that go above the door frame must maintain 16 in on Center where on a non load-bearing wall it's not important in the aspect of support it's only for giving you spots to land the drywall.
The 2 inches is to accommodate both the extra needed space for the door frame and flooring you may put down. To be safe I would still recommend 1.5 in extra on top.
If I'm putting in a door frame in an existing finished hallway (non-lode-bearing), do I need a bottom plate? If so, how since the drywall is already there? Thanks!
Well if its an exsisting wall when you knock the hole in the wall you should have the plate there, you just want to cut it to the size of your intended door opening is all. But yes all door openings should have a bottun plate. Being its not a load bearing wall I wouldnt worry to much if there is no plate to use though. The purpose of the plate is for load distribution.
Great video. I guess it's pretty much the same if I'm adding a door in a finished basement hallway. I think my only issue will be with the Top rail finding the floor joists above.
If I build my rough opening for a basement door non bearing, and take my time, get everything perfectly square, Plum and level, why the need for so much space between jamb and rough opening?
Ok Ive thought this myself and you dont need a ton of space but this is the amount of space someone expects to see when installing a prehung door. Me personally I only add 1.5 inches to my opening. As its always better to have a little slop for adjustment and for the expanding and contracting of the lumber thru the seasons than it is to rough it to small and regret it later. :)
@@BevinsBuilds heyyyy lol exactly!! It wound up being cheaper still just because I was already there and didn’t have to leave my full truck and trailer unattended in Lowe’s parking lot 😂. Glad I seen this comment, I forgot to attach the receipt to the form and fill it out for the mail in rebate
Great video! We’re about to build a non load bearing wall with a prehung door to section off a newly installed bathroom in our upstairs bedroom. One question I have that I’ve seen different answers for is should we remove the existing drywall where our frame and header will be secured to the ceiling and existing sidewalls . I’ve read if you don’t the drywall might eventually crack. A
That's a very good question and I'm sorry but the only way I truly know to answer that is that you need to remove some drywall to add studs in it but keep in mind you should only remove the drywall from one side. So if the doorway you are working on is say a bedroom and the other side is the living room I would remove the drywall on the bedroom side of the door put the studs in and then you'll have to put a patch piece of drywall back up over it once you have completed the project. Which then requires one of my least favorite things to do which is mud and tape.
Actually if the walls are poured plaster I wouldn't be as concerned about studs being in the inside especially if the plaster is lathe board as the small planks they use to adhere the plaster to should more than sufficiently hold your screws in place unlike drywall that has no support in it at all. Providing the doors you are hanging are not extremely heavy.
Okay so I can't find any info on TH-cam just "add two inches" Height: 0.75" for door jam, 0.25" for swing on bottom, 1/8" for swing on top. 7/8" for leveling/plumb? Width: 1/8" on one sides to swing, 1.5" for door jamb. Does that mean there's only 1/8" to shim if the studs are out of square? Am I missing something? I've watched like 10 TH-cam videos now on this and they're all ten minutes long and don't discuss any of the actual math
Link to my Amazon page
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Link to videos on my lego channel Bevins Bricks
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You can also now send mail to:
Bevins Builds
P.O. Box 510
Tecumseh, MI 49286
Had to pause at 3:26 and share a memory of a job where the homeowner walked up to me with a bar of soap and insisted she stand between myself and my box of screws so she could rub soap on each screw prior to me using it.
Ivory soap , I’ll never forget it.
Her husband explained a few things to me and with a tear in his eye told me she had dementia and long story short asked me to basically babysit her.
Wasn’t a big deal and honestly felt more like a mission from the lord than anything.
Glad you sparked that memory sir
You are a very kind individual and that was awesome of you to be so understanding and helpful.
Excellent. Cuts out all the unnecessary commentary, weak attempts at humor, and floof. You're a good teacher. Nicely done.
Unusual- Straight forward , to the point and just what I wanted to hear . Thanks
Clear instructions well done video. Thanks for posting. I am building a non load bearing wall with a door in my garage to separate my micro workshop from the area were we park vehicles. I had questions about the dimensions to rough frame the door opening. This was perfect.
Thanks and thank you so much for watching.
Just what I was looking for so I can continue my walls that have door openings for actual interior doors and closet’s,you make it look pretty simple thank you
Very clear and precise. Instructions on how to build a door frame.
No matter whether external or interior.
Your informative video
Is very clear and precise.
I thought I could build my door frame just like you've described in your video, however, I needed. A second opinion.
You're video is very clear and most helpful.
Thankyou for sharing your video with us on the TH-cam channel.😊
Needed a quick refresher on how to install a door frame and this was it. Well done!
Very helpful, trying to ad a door to my front porch…thanks!!
Straight to the point without all the idle chit chat, well done.
This video randomly popped up in my feed and I’m glad I clicked it, I checked your channel and you have a lot of random projects, SCORE!!!!
Awesome channel man, looking forward to checking them out
Extremely useful video.. usually in other videos they don't explain the RO measurements in this detail ! many thanks!!
Thanks Im glad it helped and thank you for watching.
Smart man, always use screws. I always use exterior self tapping torx screws. I swear by them. Thanks for this. I need to build a closet and this will help with the door.
My dad's the one that got me into using screws before that I always use nails but the nice thing with screws is if you make a mistake it comes apart easily and I totally agree that torques heads are the best
Nice movie Bevin; plain, informative, warm no BS thankyou
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Got a job doing this tomarrow in a restaurant turning it into office rooms. Got the walls up just needed a lil info on the doorway since it's been awhile. Thanks for your advice cause I got it now 👍👍
I understood that wetting a screw (maybe nails too) simply acted as a lubricant of sorts to make it easier to screw-in preventing binding when not using a pilot home. Never heard of it preventing cracking.
With a nail, especially finishing nails on fine wood, it is a trick to place nail upside down on a hard surface, and tap the sharp end of the nail point with a hammer to blunt it prevent the wood from cracking. As the sharp end can act as a chisel almost splitting the wood vs a blunt tip.
Great video anyhow.
Thank you very much for
Explaining how to make door in frame in basement
I saw other vedios also
but your explaining is the best one God bless you
Hey louie CK, you are a great carpenter as well as a great comedian!
For real tho, you sound exactly like louie CK
Cool, perfect advice for my DIY projects
Nice clear video. Very informational! Thank you!
I’m a union tinnier make sure you vent the furnace for combustion air I only see one pipe,also make sure the return is ducted to larger room,that way you won’t be taking air away from furnace,also great vidio for framing I’m adding a door and didn’t know what size to make.ps ac/dc rocks.
Nice work young man!
Nice, better than some other, larger channels!
Thanks
Im building a whole house and doing all the labor. Im going to be building an exterior wall with a door today. Nice vid!
Awesome I hope it goes smooth and quickly for you. I know doing an entire building by yourself can be a task.
Thank you for showing us how to do it right.
May I recommend putting studs above door so the gap is centered? That allows a return air [12" or 14"] to be installed above door later - solid doors are nice, but they will block alot of airflow when closed.
Nice and clear video. I'm going to be adding a door into an existing wall for under-stair storage. Right now that area is inaccessible. I'm more comfortable with the carpentry part than drywallling the new "room" but this video is quite helpful. I may forego the 1/2" plywood and just choose grain direction carefully. I have a couple of 2x4s that are pretty close to quartersawn,, which should minimize any twisting or warping.
Great video. Descriptive, succinct
Great video. Will be using your teachings in a small diy here in Costa Rica
That's awesome to hear
Nice job young man, thank you for your videos.
Extremely helpful. Thank you!
Thanks. Starting my project tomorrow!!!!!
Great video! Thank you!
Thanks this is great and simple! I’m working up nerve to add a new wall with a door! 😛
Excellent video. Easy to follow. Good work
Good tips! What about door framing ( build to suit!? ⭐⭐📀📀
Great info sr thanks just working on my interior walls and doors without any experience so videos like yours are saving me 😂👍👍👍
Thanks glad to hear it
Good day if you use 2 by 3 wood stud to hang sheet rack what is recommended size wood to use for door frame
Wetting a screw before ; does work !!!
Thank you. Much helpful.
Thanks for the video..
This is unrelated ..but you have a good voice for a DJ or an announcer.....
Thanks and thank you for watching. 😀 I appreciate the compliment. I would love to do podcasts or commercials and such but no idea what to do with them or what to talk about.
Great video! Very informative! Thank you!
Thanks and thank you for watching.
What gap do you like to leave for shims/packers?
That’s true about the nails it also was. Cause they were dealing with harder wood and if you ever nailed oak boards specially when they were dried. Another thing was to blunt the nails so they wouldn’t split the wood. My house when it was built was of hardwood a on 12” centers also real 2 x 4s makes remodeling a chore
I always thought it was an interesting little fact. I always did it just to have nails handy. As for your house. That is awesome though be 12 on center. It must be a very strong old house. I do sympathize with you on the true 2x4 though as like you said it makes it a real pain. As if you need to add studs you have to shim them. Still though Im jelous I would love to own an older historical home as the craftsman ship in those buildings is amazing.
Bevins Builds they also used square nails and very wide boards this house was part of the settlers in Michigan being proof of staying on the land for 3 years to own it the wood is actually off the land it self. They just laid the sill on a layer of rocks. And they added 2 layers of bricks in between each stud I am assuming for draft or a rat wall. The corners are actually post and pegged. And as I remodel the outside I’m loosing the popular siding so I can insulate the walls I’d love to keep it but the time to repaint and maintenance involved. Insulation I’m sticking with a baton style Incase I ever do the inner walls. I remodeled the bathroom as that was also my issue of getting somethings to plumb and running new supply and drain lines given this house was the first to have info plumbing and electric and telephone in the area. And from what I was told was a waystop for stage coaches between Ann Arbor and Plymouth. The 2 front rooms had French doors that open all the way around to the walls so they could hold dances. It did have a lot of gas plumbing for lighting too. So yeah new construction is way easier then this old house
Yeah I can understand why its all a nightmare for you and agree I would rather have vinyl siding so you dont have the yearly painting issues. Your actually close to my area then with where you live. I commute from tecumseh to romulus daily for work.
Very informative video, exactly what i needed...
Great video thanks for sharing and explaining
Thanks man you really saved my ass
Great job!!
Very good lesson I had learned, thank you.
Since all that we are looking for is a 1/2 inch space between the 2×4 can we use half inch drywall as a spacer rather than using plywood?
"If you're into lego?"
Does the pope shit in the woods!🤣
Lol
Building my own tiny house in spring next year and this video was very helpful for my notes but, do you know any way to make a door more bear proof to keep my pets safe?
Thanks and thank you for watching. As for making an exterior door strong, the biggest thing is to make sure you use a solid core door and to make it real strong use a steel door. But also get a combo unit with a dead bolt.
Bevins Builds thank you
Thanks man I needed that info
Yw
THANK YOU for this great video! So helpful! What size screws are best?
Interesting. I work for Hayden homes and we do 81 1/2 inch trimmers for the door frame
So your measurement of 82” was from the concrete floor to the underside of the 2x4 header board? Which would mean the cut vertical boards were 80 1/2” long and we’re sitting on top of the 1 1:2” thick 2x4’s attached to the floor?
Yes that is correct
Very helpful! Clear explanations. Thank you!
great video. I'm getting ready to frame out porch doors that already have a deck under them. Think I should still go 82 high or less? Thanks. You were easy to understand and thorough.
I would stick with the 82 High because it is always better to have too much space than not enough the extra space can always be shimmed.
very good video helped me a lot thank you
Great video! Also loved the plumbing one!
Thanks I appreciate it. I was getting a lot of hateful comments on that video so I shut off the comments on it.
Great video
Thank you great video
very good i need to not forget how to do simple things like that thanks
We do Custom homes and always do 3 and 3 for rough opening. We always go bigger, never too tight.
Thank you.
Helpful video for a weekend warrior like me :) Question, is it OK to use screws for framing an interior wall? What size are those screws? Thanks
I use 2 1/2 inch screws with a t25 star drive :)
For a stud wall with aluminum supports, can one just screw the door jamb into the uprights and do you recommend any type of screws in particular?? Thanks for the informative video.
To be perfectly honest I don't have a lot of experience with metal studs. I will say this though being they are aluminum I would not screw the door frame directly to the stud. If I am not mistaken there are special support that you need to purchase for mounting door frames to the aluminum studs.
Old nail benders used bees wax, had it in the end of the hammer. Henry Thorne builder of the BIG PEACH!
I had never heared that one before, thanks
Good video. Thanks.
Thanks for watching :)
I haven’t seen this method for making a header before with the 2-2x4 and 1/2” ply. My house only uses 1-2x4 as the door headers. You said you do this to keep them from twisting....is that to keep the header from twisting or the jack/king studs?? I want to frame a closet door for a larger door. I plan on purchasing a prehung 8’ double sided mirrored door....do you have any special suggestions? Not sure if the weight of the door would be significantly different and if I should take any special considerations into account for this when constructing the frame
I personally have never seen a door framed without this type of header or thicker meaning 2x6, 2x8 or more but that method is reserved for load bearing walls. Anytime you have a window or door installed the proper framing calls for a minimum of a 2x4 header as well as the king and jack studs. The purpose of this is to keep the header from twisting and warping and causing issues with the door frame. Im sure you can get away with just doing a 2x4 but I was taught to make all headers in this fashion. As for your situation with a prehung door, no there isnt any other special framing that would be required. Except what I already show. 😀 hope this helps.
What type/length of fasteners are you using ?
Memory lane 😂The saliva trick😅. How do you get an elephant to screw an ant? Answer.. lots of patience and a bit of saliva. 😅
Thank you!
Ok, so the prehung door I got from home depot is a 36 x 80, but it says "rough opening 38.5 x 82.5" on the frane's label. Do I add 2 inches to the 38.5?
To me when I rough frame I always only add 2 inches to all diameters but it is common for 2.5 inches of slop. As most rough in holes are not square and level. But when I am doing my own framing my openings are all plum and square. To answer your specific question though no do not add anything. They are just suggesting the rough opening size for the 36 inch door. The 2.5 inches is already added to that demension.
This is actually a useful video, to hear the dimension calculations, worrying about the flooring, the process and the finished result. Thanks for making it. However, I would say that it would be better if you used the proper terminology for all the parts of the framing, You mentioned some, bottom plate and header. The other important terms are king stud - the full length 2x4's. Trim (jack) stud - the side 2x4's that support the header. Cripple studs - the short studs above the header. And finally, the top plate. Using the proper carpenter terms is just a good thing to do to help spread the knowledge effectively through time to others.
Yeah I will be the first to admit my terminology is lacking. But I dont do this type of work everyday. So I forget a lot of the terms.
If I am using a 30' Door, do I make a 32" opening?
Yes and 82 for height.
Its npt required to be, If I have space I screw them in on the end thru the king stud. If not then I screw them in diagonally, of I understand your question correctly.
Would a door frame be constructed differently in a load-bearing exterior wall?
Yes and no, it would still be the same construction but when doing it for load-bearing I prefer to use 2 by 6 on the header for a standard opening (36" door) and 2x8 for wider doors and use an extra king stud. It's also important to note that the cripple studs that go above the door frame must maintain 16 in on Center where on a non load-bearing wall it's not important in the aspect of support it's only for giving you spots to land the drywall.
@@BevinsBuilds
Thank you for explaining 👍🏼
The non-loadbearing wall I'm putting my door in was built on top of pre-existing hardwood floor. Would I still frame an extra 2 inches in height?
The 2 inches is to accommodate both the extra needed space for the door frame and flooring you may put down. To be safe I would still recommend 1.5 in extra on top.
If I'm putting in a door frame in an existing finished hallway (non-lode-bearing), do I need a bottom plate? If so, how since the drywall is already there? Thanks!
Well if its an exsisting wall when you knock the hole in the wall you should have the plate there, you just want to cut it to the size of your intended door opening is all. But yes all door openings should have a bottun plate. Being its not a load bearing wall I wouldnt worry to much if there is no plate to use though. The purpose of the plate is for load distribution.
Thinking about doing this as well.
What about jamb depth? Could you go over how to measure that?
Not really sure what you mean about jam depth. The thickness of the wall is a constant with either a two-by-four or a 2 x 6 framed wall.
Will it be ok if I went 81.5 inches in height
Great video! Would all these rules apply for double doors and for exterior doors on a metal building?
Yes they do apply for both situations.
Thanks for the info! I’m trying to build a roadside stand to sell buttsoup with my cousins.
Your welcome thanks for watching.
Very helpful! Subscribing
Very nice video! Can a door be placed any distance from the corner or does it have to be 16” away?
No it can be placed any distance. At a minimum though I would make it at least 4 inches plus from a corner so you have space for trim.
Any worries about cutting 2 studs out of a load bearing wall to frame in a 36 door?
If it is a bearing wall yes. But as long as you replace it with a proper header there are no issues.
Great video. I guess it's pretty much the same if I'm adding a door in a finished basement hallway. I think my only issue will be with the Top rail finding the floor joists above.
Would it not have been easier to screw the header to the jack studs before you screwed them to the king studs? just asking ;-)
Yes it would have but for the sake of explanation and filming I did it the hard way.
If I build my rough opening for a basement door non bearing, and take my time, get everything perfectly square, Plum and level, why the need for so much space between jamb and rough opening?
Ok Ive thought this myself and you dont need a ton of space but this is the amount of space someone expects to see when installing a prehung door. Me personally I only add 1.5 inches to my opening. As its always better to have a little slop for adjustment and for the expanding and contracting of the lumber thru the seasons than it is to rough it to small and regret it later. :)
Menards is cheaper on EVERYTHING before the mail in rebates.
Except for insulation
You got to catch it on sale and when I bought my insulation I got 40% off for buying 36 or more rolls
@@BevinsBuilds heyyyy lol exactly!!
It wound up being cheaper still just because I was already there and didn’t have to leave my full truck and trailer unattended in Lowe’s parking lot 😂.
Glad I seen this comment, I forgot to attach the receipt to the form and fill it out for the mail in rebate
How to rough in a door on a load bearing wall ?
Nice step by step how to do sir?
Hey Joseph thanks and thanks for watching :)
Great video! We’re about to build a non load bearing wall with a prehung door to section off a newly installed bathroom in our upstairs bedroom. One question I have that I’ve seen different answers for is should we remove the existing drywall where our frame and header will be secured to the ceiling and existing sidewalls . I’ve read if you don’t the drywall might eventually crack. A
Keep in mind screws have very low tensile strength compared to nails
Because people are going to be hanging weights on them. 🙄🙄🙄
typically when i'm screwing up.... hahaha
I dnt think it's any studs above door opening. House built in 1912. Trying to hang barn doors. Found king stud on side of frame... Idk what to do
That's a very good question and I'm sorry but the only way I truly know to answer that is that you need to remove some drywall to add studs in it but keep in mind you should only remove the drywall from one side. So if the doorway you are working on is say a bedroom and the other side is the living room I would remove the drywall on the bedroom side of the door put the studs in and then you'll have to put a patch piece of drywall back up over it once you have completed the project. Which then requires one of my least favorite things to do which is mud and tape.
@@BevinsBuilds no drywall. Pored plaster &lattice...thx 4 reply
Actually if the walls are poured plaster I wouldn't be as concerned about studs being in the inside especially if the plaster is lathe board as the small planks they use to adhere the plaster to should more than sufficiently hold your screws in place unlike drywall that has no support in it at all. Providing the doors you are hanging are not extremely heavy.
@@BevinsBuilds coo coo thx. I just been staring at it
Okay so I can't find any info on TH-cam just "add two inches"
Height:
0.75" for door jam, 0.25" for swing on bottom, 1/8" for swing on top. 7/8" for leveling/plumb?
Width:
1/8" on one sides to swing, 1.5" for door jamb. Does that mean there's only 1/8" to shim if the studs are out of square? Am I missing something?
I've watched like 10 TH-cam videos now on this and they're all ten minutes long and don't discuss any of the actual math
thumbed
Those nails and screws have oil on them.
Chinese oil petrochemical no good for tummies..
I got your back bro
Nice but me personally I would've been using the nail gun more faster, but that's just me ....
It is, but I prefer screws :)
in the outside world they put soap on the nail,,