The bar is NOT "too long for the power of the saw". Bar-length is not just about the size of the logs the saw is intended to cut. The "longer" bar is for reach. Which is great for a climbing (ie top-handle) saw like this. Even for a ground (rear-handle) saw, a so-called "longer" bar keeps you from having to bend over as much.
I use makita saws in my gardening business I find this 18 volt top Handel saw gets used a lot for its light weight and what it’s capable of doing if I need more power, I’ll get the 36 or 40 volt saw.
Thanks for the review. I appreciate your frankness about the saw mostly being focused on 4 to 5 inch brush. That's what I need. It's nice to know that, in a pinch, it can do larger stuff, but I'm glad you pointed out that it's really not for big 8 inch trees.
The bar-length gives you more reach. It's not just about log size. Also if you're just cutting brush with it, or just be using it on the ground, then you're better off getting the rear-handle version. Top-handle saws are meant for use up off the ground, when you might be cutting with one hand and holding on with the other.
@@Shoptoolreviews Thank you! Last question…I already have Makita and Ridgid tools - In your opinion, Is it best to just go with either the Milwaukee or Ego, or would a Makita or Rigid work for small home cleanup work?
@@ShoptoolreviewsBought the 16” Milwaukee recently. Haven’t had a chance to use it yet, but the weight! Holy smokes, wasn’t expecting it be be heavier than my Stihl MS170. Thought I might be able to one hand it if needed. 16” forearms: Nope.
If you're using the saw on the ground nearby 100% of the time then get a rear-handle saw. Top-handle saws are designed to be easier to use up in a tree (or on a ladder) when sometimes you'll be holding on with one hand and cutting with the other. **And in that case you'll appreciate the bar length for the reach it provides.** However, on the ground, they require more effort since your hands are so close together which means you have less leverage. They're also less safe on the ground than a rear-handle saw and they require more bending over. Awesome up in a tree, but less so on the ground.
Thanks for another great video brother. This is a case of sacrificing doing the actual job for advertising and bragging rights. It is probably a great little saw but by putting a bigger bar automatically puts it in the underpowered category. They would have been much better to put a 10 inch or even a 8 inch bar. The saw does great cutting smaller branches, exactly what it was designed for. A shorter bar would let it shine, in my opinion.
Thank you, very good review! And this is really interesting small and light saw, and it have a much power for it's small size. But too expensive, in fact it costs the same or more than DUC356, which is mich more powerfull 36 volt saw.... I think the price in 150 dollars will be much more suitable for this product (for bare tool). Greetings from Russia!
If possible, can do a review of the new Ryobi 40 volt top handle 12 inch chainsaw . Id like to get your take on it.? I recently purchased it and does fairly well, considering, what it is
That saw should be able to cut that easy ..that small Hackberry limb..no way thats 1250.00 rpm...😢my echo 2511t is tuned to that it eats 20 inch logs in seconds...the best battery saw on market is husqvarna t540i and the new clutch version ..same saw..as a arborist nothing beats it..Milwaukee is close but is awkward and not quite on par..i take down entire large trees on 2 batteries with the husqvarna t540i bl200 battery..in the bucket truck.and keep a extra saw charged on the inverter in tool box cab...it runs .325 mini qaurter pitch..16 inch bar..will cut literally anything..qaurter pitch is only way to go on ANY TOP HANDLE..one exception is 201t/and husqvarna t540mark3 gas
Not it isn't under-powered for the length of the bar. The slightly longer bar is for reach, not bigger logs. Bar length is not entirely about log size.
The bar is NOT "too long for the power of the saw". Bar-length is not just about the size of the logs the saw is intended to cut. The "longer" bar is for reach. Which is great for a climbing (ie top-handle) saw like this. Even for a ground (rear-handle) saw, a so-called "longer" bar keeps you from having to bend over as much.
First suggestion is convert the bar/chain/sprocket to 1/4 pitch. It’s in the manual. I don’t know why Makita doesn’t come stock with that setup….
I use makita saws in my gardening business I find this 18 volt top Handel saw gets used a lot for its light weight and what it’s capable of doing if I need more power, I’ll get the 36 or 40 volt saw.
Thanks for the review. I appreciate your frankness about the saw mostly being focused on 4 to 5 inch brush. That's what I need. It's nice to know that, in a pinch, it can do larger stuff, but I'm glad you pointed out that it's really not for big 8 inch trees.
The bar-length gives you more reach. It's not just about log size. Also if you're just cutting brush with it, or just be using it on the ground, then you're better off getting the rear-handle version. Top-handle saws are meant for use up off the ground, when you might be cutting with one hand and holding on with the other.
@@kirkbrode Did not know that. Thanks for the info!
The longer bar gives you a little more reach. I've heard people have better success switching to 1/4 pitch on this saw and battery saws in general.
Milwaukee has a new top handle 18v chainsaw coming out.
I build mtn bike trails. This thing is invaluable. It handles what the machete can’t. Big stuff gets the gas powered Stihl.
I think they have a shorter, 10" version, at least they do in xgt line
Thanks for all the info! Of the non-top handle battery saws you've tested, what are your favorite two or three?
Milwaukee and EGO.
@@Shoptoolreviews Thank you! Last question…I already have Makita and Ridgid tools - In your opinion, Is it best to just go with either the Milwaukee or Ego, or would a Makita or Rigid work for small home cleanup work?
@@ShoptoolreviewsBought the 16” Milwaukee recently. Haven’t had a chance to use it yet, but the weight! Holy smokes, wasn’t expecting it be be heavier than my Stihl MS170. Thought I might be able to one hand it if needed. 16” forearms: Nope.
@@ajdizzle4shizzlewould make sense to get makita if you have there battery sss
If you're using the saw on the ground nearby 100% of the time then get a rear-handle saw. Top-handle saws are designed to be easier to use up in a tree (or on a ladder) when sometimes you'll be holding on with one hand and cutting with the other. **And in that case you'll appreciate the bar length for the reach it provides.**
However, on the ground, they require more effort since your hands are so close together which means you have less leverage. They're also less safe on the ground than a rear-handle saw and they require more bending over.
Awesome up in a tree, but less so on the ground.
the long blade is there for reach ability nit large logs
@GTRliffe exactly
Thanks for another great video brother. This is a case of sacrificing doing the actual job for advertising and bragging rights. It is probably a great little saw but by putting a bigger bar automatically puts it in the underpowered category. They would have been much better to put a 10 inch or even a 8 inch bar. The saw does great cutting smaller branches, exactly what it was designed for. A shorter bar would let it shine, in my opinion.
Thank you, very good review! And this is really interesting small and light saw, and it have a much power for it's small size. But too expensive, in fact it costs the same or more than DUC356, which is mich more powerfull 36 volt saw.... I think the price in 150 dollars will be much more suitable for this product (for bare tool). Greetings from Russia!
Man when he cranked that clutch cover down I winced
Why? That retains the bar and chain, it can't be loose. Thanks for watching.
If possible, can do a review of the new Ryobi 40 volt top handle 12 inch chainsaw . Id like to get your take on it.? I recently purchased it and does fairly well, considering, what it is
Can you do the xcu11z next please
Go head to head against the M18 8” hatchet!
That saw should be able to cut that easy ..that small Hackberry limb..no way thats 1250.00 rpm...😢my echo 2511t is tuned to that it eats 20 inch logs in seconds...the best battery saw on market is husqvarna t540i and the new clutch version ..same saw..as a arborist nothing beats it..Milwaukee is close but is awkward and not quite on par..i take down entire large trees on 2 batteries with the husqvarna t540i bl200 battery..in the bucket truck.and keep a extra saw charged on the inverter in tool box cab...it runs .325 mini qaurter pitch..16 inch bar..will cut literally anything..qaurter pitch is only way to go on ANY TOP HANDLE..one exception is 201t/and husqvarna t540mark3 gas
Yep , it's gust a branch saw
Underpowered for the size of the bar.
The 36 volt 14 inch cuts mesquite like butter and pine like shaving cream, well, I love it
Not it isn't under-powered for the length of the bar. The slightly longer bar is for reach, not bigger logs. Bar length is not entirely about log size.
Nothing is ever oversized in merica.
10" is normal for average guys there.
The m18 top handle is about 7 time the power of this saw and both are the same.voltage ! How is it possible i don't know
Just buy 2511t echo..qaurter pitch...destroys all top handles under 35cc
I love the imperial math - it is undoable without calculator 🤣 4,720/60=78.67 . 4.42"=.3683😍🤩
Poor saw tryna kill it straight out the box
Switches back to normal after 30 seconds I think
That battery isn't good for this saw.. put 6 or 5Ah and it should be more powerful.
I'd be afraid to break it.
It's not made cheap, so it's nice and sturdy. It just doesn't have the power to cut 6"+ branches. Thanks for watching.
What a heap of rubbish I have this saw and works fine I am a qualified arborist and use it everyday with no problems learn to use it properly 😱😱😱
Chainsaws *DO NOT HAVE BLADES*
👍👍👍
I cant get my head around a electriç chain saw petrol all the way for me. Realy want the sthyl fuel injected saw.