Again a great tip not to go crazy with chemicals and find the right balance to get the job done in a healthy way. I'm just starting the job and bookmarked the video a while ago.
@@PinealPaintingLLC Yes you deserve it. I painted top coat today with SW emerald urethane. Went through all the prep steps for thermofoil kitchen cabinets you described. Used Zin Zeisner shellac primer. All with 4.5" wooster black foam smooth 1/2 inch roller cover (cleans with straight isopropil alchohol btw). Did all the denatured alcohol, rough sanding and vacuuming then primer then with wide paddle tip and old natural bristle brush + vac to remove the white powder from the sand paper without getting it airborne (you should try, works very well). , manual sanded with 400 + 800 grit after primer first coat too. Used shop vacuum and protection mask. I had some experience before with this primer for two bathrooms but it's not perfect. Since i am not a pro i don't spray, i roll (not as good). Two things i might be doing wrong : 1) I never know for how long to mix a new galon of top coat. I use a paddle with mixer on slow speed at 400 rpm for 2 minutes. I noticed the viscosity increased quite a bit from the fresh open can to the end of the mixing. Maybe i mix too long. But i've noticed with wall paint 'duration' the pigment takes a while to incorporate fully to the paint base. The emerald urethane was flowing good but a little too thick that it doesn't roll flat without orange peel, but that will probably cure flat (i just finished top coat 1st layer as i write this). 2) I seem to be too stingy on the amount of paint i leave on the roll before application (avoiding blobs of paints). Forcing me to make too many rolling passes and leaves roll edge pressure marks only visible on certain light angle. That's after first coat. Hopefully the second coat will take care of that. My question is do you sand 800 between first top coat and second top coat ? My bad luck i found one cabinet door i forgot completely. I have to go through the whole process just for that one, what waste of time. Also one drawer plank fell paint side on the floor while i was painting top coat. stopped. Will have to resand that one.
@@ericastier1646 LOL oh the joys of painting cabinets. Don't feel bad about dropping the door, it happens. I dont tend to sand on the last coat if it looks good. Sometimes I just take a razor blade and knock anything off that may be sticking up. Smooth to touch. Spraying can throw things onto the surface sometimes because of the air pressure. If you find the roller is leaving and "indian rope" when rolling you can try doing more of a dry roll with less paint. Usually when spraying the first coat is light anyway. But, usually that Urethane Enamel with smooth itself out when drying so don't worry too much about the "orange peel" after rolling it. Most trim and cabinet paint have self-leveling technologies built in to help with that. If you need to give another light sand before the final coat you can always do that too. I'm just glad you are using the right paint. Sometimes people go through all the trouble and then don't use the right paint. Sounds like you are doing a really thorough job and I am sure it will come out amazing! Keep me informed. Thanks so much for the support!
I’ve worked making caravan internals for £20 + years. I cut all the doors and worktops all made with MDF. Don’t breath the dust in as it damages your lungs. Always wear the proper safety equipment when doing any job.
Great tip! Thank you! Pretty much everything a painter does is toxic to our health! If I don't have a mask on then it might be so that you can hear me while I am speaking.
Without seeing it I am not sure but, probably. Is it Green or Yellow? You will know for sure if you start sanding it. It will gum up onto your sandpaper if it is.
@@PinealPaintingLLCyes it is yellow and it does gum and not only that but i can take a nail and a it will gum up under my nail.and they dont sell denatured alcohol in my country,what do you recommend as a substitute,thanks for getting back to me so fast because i tried painting the bottom drawer front for a test and the paint and primer dont stick at all. I never seen anything like it
@@Greenhead24 No problem, Well if you can't get denature then I had pretty good success with a (deglosser) Look for a paint deglosser. It will take the sticky out of the glue and you can scuff it with paper after that. Can't go crazy with the sanding but you can scuff it enough to get the primer to stick.
Hello, Wow, That is a fantastic question. I have no idea. I would like to test a MDF door out with stain if I could get my hands on some MDF. Gel Stain might hold... There is no wood grain on MDF so I'm not sure what the over all outcome would be. If you dabble, let me know what you come up with.
@@PinealPaintingLLC ok thank you. I looked up another video and the guy on that one said you could but you would have to use a Mi wax pre stain then follow with a Mi wax gel stain… but his looked funky. So I don’t know how it would be.. yours look more professional!
@@anelrameiraminbad4055 Very interesting indeed! I have seen a painter use gel stain on a plastic door and make it look like wood. It was crazy awesome!
@@PinealPaintingLLC oh wow, I’m sure that looked awesome. In my previous comment I just noticed I said Mi wax, I mean Minwax sorry. I seen a tool like a roller or something that is used to make MDF look like real wood it like makes a pattern of wood notches. It looks good. I’m trying to redo my thermafoil cabinets it’s all coming off but have a lot of sanding ahead of me. Thanks for responding to my comment I appreciate your help.
@@PinealPaintingLLC Thanks I still cannot get it off and have used a ton of denatured alcohol. These cabinets had a ton of glue but I don't want to ruin the MDF
@@MoonbootsJ What I do is clean them the best I can, then prime. After primer when you sand the primer you will be able to see if the bonding primer bonds properly or not. If you have a couple areas (usually the edges) where the primer fails after sanding then just sand those areas again really good. If the primer sticks then it sticks. No problem. If you want to re-apply primer to those areas where it didnt hold then you can do that and then I just spray the first coat of finish paint. You have to sand in between all coats of paint. Sanding will let you know if you have a good bond or not.
Why not use isopropyl alcohol which has the same properties as denatured alchohol which is ethanol with methanol. Denatured alcohol is no longer sold locally in big stores and has to be ordered online, inconvenient.
That is a great option for people who live in states like California who have banned a lot of things lately. Here in Florida, no problem obtaining Denatured so far. Great idea.
@@PinealPaintingLLC Not just Cali, i don't see it in any big stores online, and thus will not be on the shelves either here in the Carolinas. But yes i would have liked an explanation why is denatured alcohol (ethanol -methanol) better than isopropyl alcohol (so easy to find). My guess is that isopropyl alchohol can be more noxious and irritant to breathe but maybe DNA cleans glue better ? I read an article that you can use grain distilled alcohol higher than 150 proof 75% alcohol by vol (200 proof is 100% pure ethanol) but you have to be careful as the rest is water not good for mdf.
If there is glue residue on the door, and you prime over it, it will fail. Bottom-line. This is bad information. I've been painting cabinets for 25 years. You must remove all glue residue from the door. I can't believe the dis-information on these sites
Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. Please let us know what your company is, how to find it and please attatch a link teaching us how to remove that glue. That would be awesome, Thank you so much. I love learning from others!
@@MoonbootsJ lol. that was my point exactly. It doesn't come off completely. This guy has no solution only a negative comment. What I do is clean them the best I can, then prime. After primer when you sand the primer you will be able to see if the bonding primer bonds properly or not. If you have a couple areas (usually the edges) where the primer fails after sanding then just sand those areas again really good. If the primer sticks then it sticks. No problem. If you want to re-apply primer to those areas where it didnt hold then you can do that and then I just spray the first coat of finish paint. You have to sand in between all coats of paint. Sanding will let you know if you have a good bond or not.
This lady made it perfectly clear that this MAY be the case (the primer showing up any bits of glue that may have been missed) which can then be sanded off and wiped down again. You may have 25 years experience but where were you when they dished out manners? You can make a point without being so bloody rude!
Again a great tip not to go crazy with chemicals and find the right balance to get the job done in a healthy way. I'm just starting the job and bookmarked the video a while ago.
Well, thank you for the support! I appreciate you!
@@PinealPaintingLLC Yes you deserve it. I painted top coat today with SW emerald urethane. Went through all the prep steps for thermofoil kitchen cabinets you described. Used Zin Zeisner shellac primer. All with 4.5" wooster black foam smooth 1/2 inch roller cover (cleans with straight isopropil alchohol btw). Did all the denatured alcohol, rough sanding and vacuuming then primer then with wide paddle tip and old natural bristle brush + vac to remove the white powder from the sand paper without getting it airborne (you should try, works very well). , manual sanded with 400 + 800 grit after primer first coat too. Used shop vacuum and protection mask. I had some experience before with this primer for two bathrooms but it's not perfect. Since i am not a pro i don't spray, i roll (not as good). Two things i might be doing wrong :
1) I never know for how long to mix a new galon of top coat. I use a paddle with mixer on slow speed at 400 rpm for 2 minutes. I noticed the viscosity increased quite a bit from the fresh open can to the end of the mixing. Maybe i mix too long. But i've noticed with wall paint 'duration' the pigment takes a while to incorporate fully to the paint base. The emerald urethane was flowing good but a little too thick that it doesn't roll flat without orange peel, but that will probably cure flat (i just finished top coat 1st layer as i write this).
2) I seem to be too stingy on the amount of paint i leave on the roll before application (avoiding blobs of paints). Forcing me to make too many rolling passes and leaves roll edge pressure marks only visible on certain light angle. That's after first coat. Hopefully the second coat will take care of that.
My question is do you sand 800 between first top coat and second top coat ?
My bad luck i found one cabinet door i forgot completely. I have to go through the whole process just for that one, what waste of time. Also one drawer plank fell paint side on the floor while i was painting top coat. stopped. Will have to resand that one.
@@ericastier1646 LOL oh the joys of painting cabinets. Don't feel bad about dropping the door, it happens. I dont tend to sand on the last coat if it looks good. Sometimes I just take a razor blade and knock anything off that may be sticking up. Smooth to touch. Spraying can throw things onto the surface sometimes because of the air pressure. If you find the roller is leaving and "indian rope" when rolling you can try doing more of a dry roll with less paint. Usually when spraying the first coat is light anyway. But, usually that Urethane Enamel with smooth itself out when drying so don't worry too much about the "orange peel" after rolling it. Most trim and cabinet paint have self-leveling technologies built in to help with that. If you need to give another light sand before the final coat you can always do that too. I'm just glad you are using the right paint. Sometimes people go through all the trouble and then don't use the right paint. Sounds like you are doing a really thorough job and I am sure it will come out amazing! Keep me informed. Thanks so much for the support!
Thank you for all the good information. Although it is tedious this will be a great makeover for our kitchen until we get the real thing done
Awesome! I’m sure it will turn out lovely for you!! I’m glad to be of some help!
I’ve worked making caravan internals for £20 + years. I cut all the doors and worktops all made with MDF. Don’t breath the dust in as it damages your lungs. Always wear the proper safety equipment when doing any job.
Great tip! Thank you! Pretty much everything a painter does is toxic to our health! If I don't have a mask on then it might be so that you can hear me while I am speaking.
Thank you from the UK
The edges are really shiny i dont know if its glue or what but its crazy how much is there,is that glue?
Without seeing it I am not sure but, probably. Is it Green or Yellow? You will know for sure if you start sanding it. It will gum up onto your sandpaper if it is.
@@PinealPaintingLLCyes it is yellow and it does gum and not only that but i can take a nail and a it will gum up under my nail.and they dont sell denatured alcohol in my country,what do you recommend as a substitute,thanks for getting back to me so fast because i tried painting the bottom drawer front for a test and the paint and primer dont stick at all. I never seen anything like it
@@Greenhead24 No problem, Well if you can't get denature then I had pretty good success with a (deglosser) Look for a paint deglosser. It will take the sticky out of the glue and you can scuff it with paper after that. Can't go crazy with the sanding but you can scuff it enough to get the primer to stick.
@@PinealPaintingLLC ok thanks alot
Thank you so much, finally and answer I have been searching sine a long time ❣️🙏
Hello, You are very welcome! Happy to help.
It's cool that you do this. Thank you for the tips.
Thank you very much for the positive feedback.
Not only do I have the exact raises panel doors but I had the exact same color thermofoil
Lucky you, lol
Me😂
Hi, I have some thermofoil that's starting to peel away at the edges, do you know what type of glue is best to stick them back down? Many thanks
I have seen people try all types of glue, Then they call me to refinish them. So, I am not sure.
Great job !
What do you do with the back or inside of the cabinet door? Can you just prime and paint over that?
Hello, Yes! Clean and Prime And Paint that also!
Awesome video. 🤙🙏
Hey! Thanks for the nice comment!
Thank you!
You are very welcome!
Can someone please tell me if you removed the thermalfoil from the cabinet facings, or did you just paint over the facings.
Remove the thermofoil then prep and paint
Thanks ! I’ll be honest , I have contact cement cleaner and lacquer thinner , but I’ll try your stuff first ( safer ). Fumes not as bad .
Absolutely, use what works best for you!! :)
I wear a respirator so maybe that would help you with the fumes too.
Denatured alcohol not available in my area. I have some mineral spirts on hand. Is that strong enough and a suitable replacement?
I'm sorry to hear that. I have tested out some Paint De-glosser it works very well.
Awesome job but how about the base how do we get that off
I will make a video!
Can the doors be stained after?
Hello, Wow, That is a fantastic question. I have no idea. I would like to test a MDF door out with stain if I could get my hands on some MDF.
Gel Stain might hold... There is no wood grain on MDF so I'm not sure what the over all outcome would be. If you dabble, let me know what you come up with.
@@PinealPaintingLLC ok thank you. I looked up another video and the guy on that one said you could but you would have to use a Mi wax pre stain then follow with a Mi wax gel stain… but his looked funky. So I don’t know how it would be.. yours look more professional!
@@anelrameiraminbad4055 Very interesting indeed! I have seen a painter use gel stain on a plastic door and make it look like wood. It was crazy awesome!
@@PinealPaintingLLC oh wow, I’m sure that looked awesome. In my previous comment I just noticed I said Mi wax, I mean Minwax sorry.
I seen a tool like a roller or something that is used to make MDF look like real wood it like makes a pattern of wood notches. It looks good. I’m trying to redo my thermafoil cabinets it’s all coming off but have a lot of sanding ahead of me. Thanks for responding to my comment I appreciate your help.
I miss denatured alcohol! It's no longer available here in California.
We would definitely welcome you to Florida if you moved here! :)
I'm sure they will come up with a water based denatured alcohol. i.e. water with a denatured alcohol smell. lol
I still cannot get the glue off of the cabinets. Any other ideas?
th-cam.com/video/dCa-39qlpCM/w-d-xo.html
@@PinealPaintingLLC Thanks I still cannot get it off and have used a ton of denatured alcohol. These cabinets had a ton of glue but I don't want to ruin the MDF
@@MoonbootsJ What I do is clean them the best I can, then prime. After primer when you sand the primer you will be able to see if the bonding primer bonds properly or not. If you have a couple areas (usually the edges) where the primer fails after sanding then just sand those areas again really good. If the primer sticks then it sticks. No problem. If you want to re-apply primer to those areas where it didnt hold then you can do that and then I just spray the first coat of finish paint. You have to sand in between all coats of paint. Sanding will let you know if you have a good bond or not.
Why not use isopropyl alcohol which has the same properties as denatured alchohol which is ethanol with methanol. Denatured alcohol is no longer sold locally in big stores and has to be ordered online, inconvenient.
That is a great option for people who live in states like California who have banned a lot of things lately. Here in Florida, no problem obtaining Denatured so far. Great idea.
@@PinealPaintingLLC Not just Cali, i don't see it in any big stores online, and thus will not be on the shelves either here in the Carolinas. But yes i would have liked an explanation why is denatured alcohol (ethanol -methanol) better than isopropyl alcohol (so easy to find). My guess is that isopropyl alchohol can be more noxious and irritant to breathe but maybe DNA cleans glue better ? I read an article that you can use grain distilled alcohol higher than 150 proof 75% alcohol by vol (200 proof is 100% pure ethanol) but you have to be careful as the rest is water not good for mdf.
If there is glue residue on the door, and you prime over it, it will fail. Bottom-line. This is bad information. I've been painting cabinets for 25 years. You must remove all glue residue from the door. I can't believe the dis-information on these sites
Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. Please let us know what your company is, how to find it and please attatch a link teaching us how to remove that glue. That would be awesome, Thank you so much. I love learning from others!
and what if you cannot get it all off ???
@@MoonbootsJ lol. that was my point exactly. It doesn't come off completely. This guy has no solution only a negative comment. What I do is clean them the best I can, then prime. After primer when you sand the primer you will be able to see if the bonding primer bonds properly or not. If you have a couple areas (usually the edges) where the primer fails after sanding then just sand those areas again really good. If the primer sticks then it sticks. No problem. If you want to re-apply primer to those areas where it didnt hold then you can do that and then I just spray the first coat of finish paint. You have to sand in between all coats of paint. Sanding will let you know if you have a good bond or not.
This lady made it perfectly clear that this MAY be the case (the primer showing up any bits of glue that may have been missed) which can then be sanded off and wiped down again. You may have 25 years experience but where were you when they dished out manners? You can make a point without being so bloody rude!
@@PureSpirit347 MUCH LOVE @PureSpirit