How to FIX Motorcycle Gearbox Part 2 / JONWAY YY350-9a GTO Valve Clearance / DD250 / Regal Raptor
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- In part 1 I showed you why this engine was disassembled. Mainly because an unfortunate turn of event that did not cause the engine itself to suffer any premeditated overheating, nor any signs of compression relating issue. It just got straight to the point of a broken Counter shaft.
Was it because I rev this in the red line that caused this? Or is it the fact that the factory that built this engine screwed me over? So first I had to think smart. I can ship this engine back to the bike’s original Chinese online dealership and demand a new engine under warranty. The only problem to this is that this will have to be a freight and the packaging must be in crates. Approximately around $3-400 just for that.
Or I can just get the parts myself which is what I did. Did I contact the dealership for the parts? No. Because they go by warranty and they will not allow the customer at this point to open the engine regardless of skills and they wouldn’t send you parts replacement of the engine because they themselves doesn’t know where to get those. That theory was tested in the past of other engine failures and it plays out the same way.
Watch how this engine is being rebuilt! See and believe! And also if you are facing the same problem you can contact me and send me the part pictures that are damaged, and I’ll work with you to get it as I’ve shown here.
Visit us at www.chinasmoto...
#chinesemotorcycle250cc #regalraptordd250 #enginerebuilt
What’s the intake and exhaust adjustment settings for the valves on these bikes?
Figured it out
the clearance are same for DD350 carburetor type...?
Yep
What is the diameter of those cylinders?
244cm… it’s written on the engine block outside below the throttle body.
@@Mr.FLOYDs I know, but did you measure the diameter of the piston? Should be 55mm or 62mm. If it's 55mm then its 250cc if it's 62mm it's 350cc.
@@313jacob u sound like someone I know that’s all talk but no action. The real world where people has skills we go by what the manufacturer says. I’m not trying to buy a 232cc Piston n Rings on Amazon to swap cheaply for this built or doing any scammy repairs. I’m never on budgets. I apply efficiency n equity on all repairs or rebuilt.
In this built I simply use the Piston I remove with the Ring. On the other built I bought the whole Piston Chamber with the Piston and the Ring. My last V-Twin I bought only the Piston and the Rings and discarded the old one instead of cleaning it because it was being used for 18,000 miles. While this built was only 5,000 miles.
To explain u how efficient I work. I’m not trying to waste time calculating or proving. When u have urs if u will ever show it on videos, then u can point out if it’s 350-680-998 or **any random number u want to give it.** The manufacturer is what I go by. The one that gave me the manual.
Don’t tell me u know better than Jonway now? Then why do u want to buy the manual from us? More reason y I will never sell it. It was my decision after I saw the help manual I posted on my website all the sudden became an official manual with no source from some random China bike forum. I laugh lmao… All the right way for people to blow up their combustion chamber n their valve rods to come to me for parts. Who knows u might b one with CR8E plug that’s now dealing with a compression issues…
@@313jacob To make u feel better on calculating with digital caliper n all, I do that when matching engine’s bolt. Often they will mix the crankcase bolt and put a 25mm instead of a 35 mm thread space. Then when you torqued that specific spot it then strip because it’s not all the way through instead only hanging by a tip.
I take pleasure in replacing engine’s bolt on every built and recalculate each spot to see if they are the right length. That’s because it’s necessary to do. Otherwise I would just scratch my ballz n say the thread was f-up while clearly is the mechanic that’s f-up. U spoon so much energy n time on doing non-sense while the one that matters is the one that u skipped.
@@313jacob Here r some question since u r so smart on throwing numbers for Cubic Inches on Cylinders.
Why is that a 55 mm Piston is 250cc while a 49mm is also quoted as a 250cc?
How can u tell the difference base with ur eye sight wether you are looking at a 55mm or a 65mm? And wouldn’t there be a difference in the plug size if indeed an engine was said to be 350cc? Do u even know how manufacturer calculate bore stroke n cylinder sizes to determine engine’s CCs?
People like u r gossiping on China forums about things u have very little knowledge of while on front of n actual pro, when u ask for some tedious comments, we like to challenge u to make sure other people doesn’t follow ur foot-steps. Because what u think u know is based on one type of engine n ur ways of describing 55 n 65 tells me u have only use 200cc up to 230cc with big bore kits. U really have no idea what 350 or 250 cc’s r. Ur making it seemed like u do while clearly u have no clue.
Hey do you have an email I was interested in the clutch pack ypu got and was wondering how to get one...My clutch is going out I think and the place I bought the bike from pretty much said screw my warranty....lol
First before you actually change your clutch you have to inspect the clutch on your bike. The worst thing is if you do buy the parts from me and my suppliers there’s no refund. And I had the same thought from before and bought the clutch but it turns out to be a major engine problem.
th-cam.com/video/OY9Jvbvs6M4/w-d-xo.html
And even the clutch it will costs you $250 just for me to order you the replacement and ship it to you with everything else relating to that specific engine seal such as gasket and the rubber seal found from the water pump shaft. I would hate for you to say you still have the same problem after spending that much money. Or if you are absolutely sure it is then OK, reply back then we can begin the transaction.
Btw what bike is it for? I have the GTO parts ready from my search database but any other bike it takes research to locate parts if they are available.
Its the gto
Ok, just remember you can’t assume it’s a problem and order parts and the problem is something else. You would need to open the engine to change the clutch anyway so why don’t you open it now to inspect it.
If you can change to first gear and first gear does work and you can change from neutral and first but 2nd and up doesn’t fully engaged you have a transmission problem rather than a clutch. Specially if your bike is under 5K miles, there’s absolutely no way you can finish a clutch that prematurely even if it’s a Chinese brand. The starter clutch yes but you wouldn’t be able to start the bike at all but the shifting clutch, no. Impossible to finish under 5k miles.
To add a bit more details how one can finish a starter clutch is if your bike was running low on oil or dripping oil to half of what the engine needs. Then the magnets that hold that disk would be damaged under frictions because the oil no longer serves as friction wear protection because the viscosity is rather too low or burning too hot and is insufficient for the quantity the engine needs. At this point either your piston ring or the starter would take turn to go bad. And if you do fix one, you would need to do the job again for the other even if you fix the leak. So you would need to change both.