Thanks for watching my video! Want more Car Audio Videos? Here are some of my most popular videos and projects you can watch! 5 common NOOB Mistakes - th-cam.com/video/1FTsmUCbvoM/w-d-xo.html Amplifier Tuning How To - th-cam.com/video/tiOUd3NkOyQ/w-d-xo.html Custom A-Pillar Speakers - th-cam.com/video/neDSi4g1CeQ/w-d-xo.html 4 Mistakes that kill bass - th-cam.com/video/hXOnkOXvznI/w-d-xo.html How to Build a T-Line Subwoofer Box - th-cam.com/video/KuBTuUdy460/w-d-xo.html
CarAudioFabrication want a tip to prevent the tech flex to frey? Melt the end slightly with a lighter, it will melt the strands SLIGHTLY and bond them together, prevents freying all the time!
I did try that before, it works if the resting inner diameter of the techflex is larger than your wire, but if you have to expand it (example 3/8" techflex over 4 gauge wire) then this doesn't work. To be honest I rarely use any connectors, everything is usually soldered, I just want the ease of a terminal block in this install as I will be running multiple led's off of the relay. Thanks for watchin man! Keep it loud!
I work as a flight simulator tech, and we use what we call "expando". (@ 3:20 mark) we will tuck the end an inch or so or fold in upon itself to keep it from fraying before installing on multiple conductor cables, or single PVC or Teflon jacketed conductors of any gauge. We use various sizes from 1/8" up to 2" expando depending on the application.
Love watching your tutorial show on car audio fabrication. I work on PC usually building and customizing, Sleeving Wire, dressing them properly not only looks wonderful and professional but helps the flow of air through out the case. Some one did comment with a good advice to help prevent sleeving from fraying just scorch the ends with a lighter I have used a heat gun either works. Since the material is nylon it will melt and stick to each other very well. You only need a few seconds over the heat nothing longer or it can catch on fire or start to melt downwards. At the point where you have the sleeve on you used electrical tape normally PC wiring are 26 and 28 gauge it is very hard and a very long process to tape each end so we end up doing is actually over buying long length of heat shrink tube then cutting it to about 1/4 and 1/2 in size. Slide the shorter heat shrink on the wire first and shrink it down then slide the sleeve over and then the longer heat shrink tube that was cut. Some heat shrink have a very tacky top and it helps the sleeve from sliding down, adding the heat shrink over sandwiches the sleeve and holds it down very firmly. You can then pull the other end of the sleeve taut hold it by pinching the entire sleeve and wire over the end you are working on and heat shrink. I notice also you placed the heat shrink on the sleeve before sliding the sleeve on the wire, There is a old trick that most people know, Use small pliers and slowly stretch the heat shrink tube that way when you go ahead and slide it over the sleeve and wire it won't be a hassle it will go on easily with room. When you heat the shrink tube it will shrink back down and fit firmly. I have used that method it takes only 2 seconds per heat shrink and saves you stress when trying to fit it on. Your method is great as well I have also done it your way :) quick and no hassle. I do love watching your show I just subscribe and will wait for new shows to appear
This is actually one of my older videos about using the tech flex, check out this much newer one where I figured out a much better way to cut the flex: Advanced Wiring Techniques Soldering Wires Techflex Wire Loom CarAudioFabrication Thanks for subscribing!
great video, a clean wiring job separates real installers from those who half-ass or just do a good enough job until you get to an area that "will never be seen" pros do clean work in those areas too. Real installers don't cut corners. Great video brother
Just fyi, coiling the signal cable as shown can introduce noise as it's essentially creating an inductor. I reccomend zig-zagging the excess cable instead.
great work. Wiring is everything. theirs been countless times ive had to fix customers non working installs simply because their wiring is a mess and the amp is flying around in the trunk. A clean install is a safe install install. you guys can use wire looms if you dont have tech flex.
Found this while researching wire management. I appreciate it. I don't agree with all of it, but I like how clearly you articulate everything, and I think you've got some good ideas. I'll subscribe and also find your review on Tech-Flex.
awesome video man. I'm sure will help a ton of people clean up their wire situation. I will have to use some tech flex for my next install. I have a ton of wires in my car and it took a good full day to install everything, especially because I had to run the wires under and out from my fiberglass amp rack, and I have mounted amps on my rear doors, so that was a pain running ground, power, and remote wires through the door grommets
May i add a tip? For cutting the zip ties use flush cut diagonal cutters. It will cut close to the zip so it will not leave any sticking out. Ive been sliced open on zip ties in my early years of electronics and this my solution the that problem. Great job looks good.
Yes I have, it works if the resting inner diameter of the techflex is larger than the outer diameter of the wire, in this case the techflex was smaller, it doesnt work well in that case. Thanks for watching!
06:15 TIP: Rather then snipping zip ties, I have learned to TWIST them off using pliers. This not only ensures they are entirely cut off BUT twisting them off prevents them from becoming sharp. (If a zip tie has scratched you and drew blood before than you will quickly realize the benefit of twisting after only the first one you twist off) Typically takes only 3 full rotations. As with anything, you'll become faster at it the more you do it. Try out twisting off a couple zip ties.
Brandon the best $8 tool I have ever bought was a pair of flush cutting pliers. The ones that I have are only for plastic, but that’s what I got them for. Nothing worse than reaching around something and slicing your hand open on a sharp wire tie.
I totally agree with Mark on using the relay. I have done this for many years since I had the misfortune of shorting a remote wire on a brand new head unit. The head unit continued to function minus the remote output. I swore never again. I install my relay behind the headunit.
Do you have two fuse blocks or perhaps a second battery in the trunk? I saw a fuse in your trunk with the distribution blocks but didn't see one under the hood. That's a huge no no as I'm sure you are aware. The fuse is recommended to be no more than about 12 inches from the battery. Sorry if I missed you explaining that in your video but I didn't notice you mention it.
RS7JR I had a fuse on the main wire about 8" from the battery post. The fuse block in the trunk is a distribution block for the multiple runs of smaller wire. Everything was completely protected, thanks for watching and be sure to watch my rebuild :).
Got a question I have 4 6 by 5 boss at 350 Watts a piece and two fours at 2:50 apiece what will be the best amp for them thanks hope to hear from you soon
Good day Mark, I know and have read some questions on the relay, may I ask what it is used for? I did read , it was for the switched units, I think, lol. I have never seen this before, I do like it though. Thank you for all your videos and time. Craig
What no tesa tape? Geez what an amateur. Lol Seriously though, I love humble beginnings you have come a long way and deserve it for all your hard work. Love the videos keep it up.
On the topic of wiring, what do you do to run the speaker wire into the box? Hole +caulk , binding posts, or terminal cups. I'm probably going with binding posts but I'm not sure yet. Do they degrade the signal or power any? The ones I'm looking at are Dayton gold plated ones on parts-express.
I always do the hole, and caulk method. I like that there is no connections that are weak or could loosen over time. Plus most of my installs are more "permanent" in nature. So its not like Im removing the box constantly foor road trips or anything like that. If you had to have removable I would use binding posts. Thanks for watching!
I like your videos, you do things clean and clear! Do you have any videos on shortening RCA cables? Im stuck with the most ridiculously long cable and im planning on cutting it down ti save some money seems pretty straight forward.
Nice job! Have you ever tried wrapping that techflex with electrical tape and then cutting through the tape with scissors to prevent it from fraying? Oh and have you ever used non insulated butt connectors and heat shrink? That's what I prefer to use, since it gives a little cleaner look.
I should have mentioned that, good catch. Its looped for two reasons, its just a random piece of wire I had already made up, notice I didn't take the time to put any techflex on it, this is because I was waiting on some crimp connections and new wire. Secondly the reason I left some play in everything is I plan on mounting the distro blocks in a fiberglass panel raised from their current location, I will shorten as needed once I do that. Yes the remote is overkill, thanks for watching!
I love terminal blocks, but check out the ones with little clear plexi covers, about 3$ each. They make whole fuse panels that can give your 12v stuff clean looking additional fusing.
Do you still have those fosgate amps? I was wondering if they are comparable to the new micro amps wattage wise and maybe test them out to see if there's any drop in performance by going with the smaller amp. I'm seriously considering using the micro amps for my next build.
I have a poping sound coming from my speaker on the dash of my 07 Jeep Commander Overland. This just all of the sudden started happening about 2+ month's ago. I assumed my factory speaker was bad, so I bought 2 bran new ones. It is still doing it, it's only coming from the passenger side. I haven't changed anything on my unit since I have owned it. It is a aftermarket in dash dvd/navigation Kenwood DNN992.
Sweet video as always, I find that all of your videos are very easy to follow and great for learning. Looking forward to applying some of the techniques to my celica :)
Hey Mark! I love your videos! I was hoping you would do a video talking about when you should install a capacitor, second battery, and/or a second/bigger alternator; as well as, installation/wiring videos of them. Your videos are alway very detailed and better done than the others out there, that’s why I was hoping to see your inputs and how-to’s on the subject.
Most head units have a turn on lead that will tell your amplifiers when to turn on, unfortunately the amount of current it provides can be minimal and may not be enough to turn on multiple amplifiers. Using a relay removes this issue, you are turning on a small switch that supplies a larger amount of current to items that need to be switched on and off, this way you can also add other items, like leds, more amps, processors, etc. Slam that like button on my videos! Thanks for watching!
Hi, can you please go over the whole set up you have in this video, what's what, why you doing it this way and what it does. I wasn't sure what all I was seeing in your video, thanks. Love your work by the way.
if you use a lighter a melt the end of the flex stuff over the wire it stops it from fraying out like that, i use to make harnesses for aircraft and thats a little trick i picked up
Good day Mark. Is running power cables for your amps in Tech Flex better than running them in split loom then Tesa taping the split loom with heat shrink on the ends?
Thanks man. I've been watching a lot on here and I'm looking forward to trying some of your techniques. Just got a flush trim bit the other day. Flippin awesome!
so the distributer box is for the positive wire you have 3 positives coming out(2 for the amps and one for the remote) and the same for the negative distributer.what are the other 2 blue boxes and what is the purpose of a terminal block. and shouldn't there be a fuse in between the positive and negative of the relay and on the remote wire?
So its cool to have a second amps remote turn on connected to the first amps turn on? Can this be done with 3 or 4 amps, or would a relay be recommended?
Also, just throwing out an idea for a video; How about one explaining Terminal & Distribution blocks, why they are different, and why they can be a huge help!
Best install is one with wires either SUPER clean, or hidden and clean. Wiring is one of the best ways to tell good installers from the rest. If the hidden wires are clean, then you know they are good.
Great set of video's. I noticed that when you installed zip ties, you cut them with regular cutters. This leaves a very sharp edge that can cut. There are diagonal cutters that are for electrical work that are flush cut. There is only one one side with a bevel cut in them. These are great for cutting zip ties and small electrical wires. Hope this helps you "bump up" your how to video's.
I have a question. Is it ok to run the amp signal wire along side of rca's and speaker wires? My amp will be in the boot and this "turn on wire " is the only 12 v wire i need to run from front to back , as the battery is in the boot. Thanks and regards
Do I need to run fuses, after my power disturbion blocks or is the 1 near the battery engouh or should i run fuses on all 3 power cables?( 1 near battery 2 after block)
should be be upgrading the stock wires from door speakers. do I just wire over that or do u take them out. and also how do u make your speaker wires to rca so to cab plug straight into head unit. in still a little confused how to wire my door speakers I'm bout to get. thanks for any help guys
Mike Mathews if you are getting replacements that require some power, say over 40 watts rms, I would definitely get an amplifier. A two channel or 4 if your running all four speakers. A typical head unit will only give you about 5-10 watts rms, it won't be enough to make them sound the way they should. If you don't want to do that, order the metra speaker wire harness for your vehicle for a couple dollars each, and just hook the little box to the one in your door, then the + to + and - to - on your speaker and that's it. If you get an amp later, run rca wire to your amp from head unit. Then run 12-16 gauge wire under your carpet or panels to the front and when you get to the little rubber boot that goes to your door, tape a thicker wire or something similar to your wire and use some grease to lube it up, and push it thru where the factory wires are and then undo all the tape and crimp the little spade connectors to the wires and plug them in. A simple amp kit will give you all this stuff except some grease and tape. But if you want good sound, you have already bought a new deck, and speakers, go ahead and get a descent 4 or 2 channel amp for less than 200 bucks and you will really see the speakers shine. Get a two channel If you just want to get your front door speakers, and you can run some sensitive 6x9s or whatever is in the back off the deck power with the metra connectors I mentioned that you can find on amazon for cheap. Just put in your vehicle make and year and pick out any speaker and they will suggest you buy the metra plugs anyways. Just take a look. I hope I cleared that up for you. And also, I would leave whatever wire that is in the door where it is as long as it's no longer hooked up that way it does not interfere with the other wire and "talk" to each other. Plus they are sometimes a real pain to remove, especially in the door jamb. Plus when you sell the car you can get your speakers out and put the old ones back in easily. Good luck.
J Stevens thank you so much for the detailed and thoughtful response. also I apologize for all the typos in the first message. so I'm getting there in terms of my system. I bought 6.5" speakers and a Rockford fosgate 400.4. and I understand clearly now that the speaker wire will be upgraded and ran under floorboard to amp, I already ran wires through this path for my subs. but that leads me to my next question, if you'd be so kind to respond. How should I connect rcas to both amps. a y-splitter? my amp is a mmats, very nice amp 1400.1d, but there's only rca inputs, no output. same with the rf 400.4, no outputs. should I just use two y-splitters on the rca cable I currently have running back. this will cut voltage in half though won't it? I'm hesitant to use a splitter. or do I run two rcas? I have a third amp, it's a mean machine and it does have outputs so I could "chain" them together but that mmats is a Fucking beast. thank you in advance for any advice and/or input.
Mike Mathews if you have a sub amp and a 4 channel, I would think you would have separate rcas for both on your head unit. If not I'm not sure. But you shouldn't mix the signals. You should have/get a hu with rcas for your mains, and rcas for a sub output. If not I'm not sure. Check and let me know. If not we may have to search around. Lol.
What is the cleanest source of music from your basic HU? I always listen to Pandora from my phone via 3.5mm cable. I always hear noise after a few weeks with each new wire, especially when phone is charging. It's not my HU, cds sound fine, bit what would be better? I see many people using thumb drives. But I don't download much music. Blu-tooth?
roylikesitlikethat I believe it's to keep the amp from shorting in case of a a overload. I have my relays fused and my turn ons fused from the relays. It may seem a bit of Overkill but, it has saved me so, much as I rearrange and upgrade my system. I started from two amps and a epicenter and added a 30 band eq, a dxdq for time delay and minor eq for rear, 2 more amps for the midbass and dead areas in the back seat. I have rebuilt by hatch area 3 times and have blow some the fuses in the process. Luckily, all is well. Being limited in time and raising a kid while working full time keeps me always rushing to finish up each day. Those fuses have saved me $1000s in burnt equipment. I noticed when I'm testing out some LEDs or something to dress it up, if half ass it, those fuses blow but anything on the relays and fused properly, doesn't have any issues. It's the accidental and fatigue variables that bring the problems. That is why I fuse so much. My safety net. I have over $5k in equipment alone and why....your guess is as good as mine. It sound amazing, though. Critical mass is the shit. It sounds better than real life and has scared me on more than one occasion. Like someone was in the car with me. Creepy as hell
this is good but as a car audio installer in hard times u got to go with wat is cheep and by cheep i mean to try and not spend to much time or money on some things that are not required ... but its a great video i need to start making mines more pro
yes... you probably should the only thing i need to do it, ziptie my wires and it looks clean straight to the amp. do it right or dont do it at all... come on car fires rre a BAD thing!!!
Searched the internet on custom sizing RCA cables, couldn't find one. If anyone better to explain this it would be you. It be nice if you did! Thanks for the vids!!!
Not really, run flats my friend. This vehicle does not have a spare from the factory, the over sized brakes and difference in width from front to back will not allow you to simply have a "donut" spare.
Nice clean job, good video, especially for explaining about cable protection through bulkheads or whatever. Whats the story with the looped ground cable on the left? Why waste so much cable, ground cabling should be as short as possible, no? And your remote looks like 12ga cable, looks like overkill to me.
ermmm..sorry dude..as i say i know the thing but cannot recall the name for it. So questioning something am not sure make me guilty. yes am not from the state. sorry if my question bothering you.
no electrician but i dont think it was that messy to me messy wiring is that can catch a spark if you turn to hard lose connections lose electrical taping any wiring hanging loose and such if you keep things from moving around and if you think bout it all amps have built in protection so a fuse box really not needed but it's good to have the amp just go in protection mode as long as the wire dont have expose wire then you should be good
done it ! i burned once an amplifier, i had a short at the head unit (actually it was the interior light that melted, fuse was oversized,so i almost set my van on fire!!!) that caused overcurrent on the remote wire and destroyed the amp
Thanks for watching my video! Want more Car Audio Videos? Here are some of my most popular videos and projects you can watch!
5 common NOOB Mistakes - th-cam.com/video/1FTsmUCbvoM/w-d-xo.html
Amplifier Tuning How To - th-cam.com/video/tiOUd3NkOyQ/w-d-xo.html
Custom A-Pillar Speakers - th-cam.com/video/neDSi4g1CeQ/w-d-xo.html
4 Mistakes that kill bass - th-cam.com/video/hXOnkOXvznI/w-d-xo.html
How to Build a T-Line Subwoofer Box - th-cam.com/video/KuBTuUdy460/w-d-xo.html
CarAudioFabrication want a tip to prevent the tech flex to frey? Melt the end slightly with a lighter, it will melt the strands SLIGHTLY and bond them together, prevents freying all the time!
I did try that before, it works if the resting inner diameter of the techflex is larger than your wire, but if you have to expand it (example 3/8" techflex over 4 gauge wire) then this doesn't work. To be honest I rarely use any connectors, everything is usually soldered, I just want the ease of a terminal block in this install as I will be running multiple led's off of the relay. Thanks for watchin man! Keep it loud!
I work as a flight simulator tech, and we use what we call "expando". (@ 3:20 mark) we will tuck the end an inch or so or fold in upon itself to keep it from fraying before installing on multiple conductor cables, or single PVC or Teflon jacketed conductors of any gauge. We use various sizes from 1/8" up to 2" expando depending on the application.
Love watching your tutorial show on car audio fabrication. I work on PC usually building and customizing, Sleeving Wire, dressing them properly not only looks wonderful and professional but helps the flow of air through out the case. Some one did comment with a good advice to help prevent sleeving from fraying just scorch the ends with a lighter I have used a heat gun either works. Since the material is nylon it will melt and stick to each other very well. You only need a few seconds over the heat nothing longer or it can catch on fire or start to melt downwards. At the point where you have the sleeve on you used electrical tape normally PC wiring are 26 and 28 gauge it is very hard and a very long process to tape each end so we end up doing is actually over buying long length of heat shrink tube then cutting it to about 1/4 and 1/2 in size. Slide the shorter heat shrink on the wire first and shrink it down then slide the sleeve over and then the longer heat shrink tube that was cut. Some heat shrink have a very tacky top and it helps the sleeve from sliding down, adding the heat shrink over sandwiches the sleeve and holds it down very firmly. You can then pull the other end of the sleeve taut hold it by pinching the entire sleeve and wire over the end you are working on and heat shrink. I notice also you placed the heat shrink on the sleeve before sliding the sleeve on the wire, There is a old trick that most people know, Use small pliers and slowly stretch the heat shrink tube that way when you go ahead and slide it over the sleeve and wire it won't be a hassle it will go on easily with room. When you heat the shrink tube it will shrink back down and fit firmly. I have used that method it takes only 2 seconds per heat shrink and saves you stress when trying to fit it on. Your method is great as well I have also done it your way :) quick and no hassle. I do love watching your show I just subscribe and will wait for new shows to appear
This is actually one of my older videos about using the tech flex, check out this much newer one where I figured out a much better way to cut the flex:
Advanced Wiring Techniques Soldering Wires Techflex Wire Loom CarAudioFabrication
Thanks for subscribing!
great video, a clean wiring job separates real installers from those who half-ass or just do a good enough job until you get to an area that "will never be seen" pros do clean work in those areas too. Real installers don't cut corners. Great video brother
Awesome! Audio is fantastic as well, makes a HUGE difference!! Good job also on the subscribers, you are gaining those FAST...well deserved!!
Just fyi, coiling the signal cable as shown can introduce noise as it's essentially creating an inductor. I reccomend zig-zagging the excess cable instead.
looping cables creates a rf choke coil and creates heat as well.
I recommend eliminating the excess cable all together.
Yeah I have tried that, it works pretty well thanks for watching!
The remote turn on signal comes from the amplifier and is fed to a relay to tell it to switch and provide power for all switched sources.
Love the video, great explanation! My next one is coming up in a few days, I'll add your channel in my description also.
great work. Wiring is everything. theirs been countless times ive had to fix customers non working installs simply because their wiring is a mess and the amp is flying around in the trunk. A clean install is a safe install install. you guys can use wire looms if you dont have tech flex.
Found this while researching wire management. I appreciate it. I don't agree with all of it, but I like how clearly you articulate everything, and I think you've got some good ideas. I'll subscribe and also find your review on Tech-Flex.
awesome video man. I'm sure will help a ton of people clean up their wire situation. I will have to use some tech flex for my next install. I have a ton of wires in my car and it took a good full day to install everything, especially because I had to run the wires under and out from my fiberglass amp rack, and I have mounted amps on my rear doors, so that was a pain running ground, power, and remote wires through the door grommets
May i add a tip? For cutting the zip ties use flush cut diagonal cutters. It will cut close to the zip so it will not leave any sticking out. Ive been sliced open on zip ties in my early years of electronics and this my solution the that problem. Great job looks good.
Watching in 2020, still a great video to enjoy!!!
I watch all your DIY's thanks your the best installer one of the best. Your very good at explaining. not moving to fast either.
Yes I have, it works if the resting inner diameter of the techflex is larger than the outer diameter of the wire, in this case the techflex was smaller, it doesnt work well in that case. Thanks for watching!
06:15 TIP: Rather then snipping zip ties, I have learned to TWIST them off using pliers. This not only ensures they are entirely cut off BUT twisting them off prevents them from becoming sharp. (If a zip tie has scratched you and drew blood before than you will quickly realize the benefit of twisting after only the first one you twist off) Typically takes only 3 full rotations. As with anything, you'll become faster at it the more you do it. Try out twisting off a couple zip ties.
Brandon the best $8 tool I have ever bought was a pair of flush cutting pliers. The ones that I have are only for plastic, but that’s what I got them for. Nothing worse than reaching around something and slicing your hand open on a sharp wire tie.
I will have to try this thanks! Thanks for watching
Just think you could have bunched them together, tech flexed them, then ran them all at once, woooo! Thanks for stopping by bro.
I totally agree with Mark on using the relay. I have done this for many years since I had the misfortune of shorting a remote wire on a brand new head unit. The head unit continued to function minus the remote output. I swore never again. I install my relay behind the headunit.
Do you have two fuse blocks or perhaps a second battery in the trunk? I saw a fuse in your trunk with the distribution blocks but didn't see one under the hood. That's a huge no no as I'm sure you are aware. The fuse is recommended to be no more than about 12 inches from the battery. Sorry if I missed you explaining that in your video but I didn't notice you mention it.
RS7JR I had a fuse on the main wire about 8" from the battery post. The fuse block in the trunk is a distribution block for the multiple runs of smaller wire. Everything was completely protected, thanks for watching and be sure to watch my rebuild :).
CarAudioFabrication what fuse size protects small wire to relay?
Got a question I have 4 6 by 5 boss at 350 Watts a piece and two fours at 2:50 apiece what will be the best amp for them thanks hope to hear from you soon
Good day Mark,
I know and have read some questions on the relay, may I ask what it is used for?
I did read , it was for the switched units, I think, lol. I have never seen this before, I do like it though.
Thank you for all your videos and time. Craig
What no tesa tape? Geez what an amateur. Lol
Seriously though, I love humble beginnings you have come a long way and deserve it for all your hard work. Love the videos keep it up.
Nice! Sit down and watch the door pods playlist while you are at it!
On the topic of wiring, what do you do to run the speaker wire into the box? Hole +caulk , binding posts, or terminal cups. I'm probably going with binding posts but I'm not sure yet. Do they degrade the signal or power any? The ones I'm looking at are Dayton gold plated ones on parts-express.
I always do the hole, and caulk method. I like that there is no connections that are weak or could loosen over time. Plus most of my installs are more "permanent" in nature. So its not like Im removing the box constantly foor road trips or anything like that. If you had to have removable I would use binding posts. Thanks for watching!
That is cool. You express info clearly and answered a lot of my questions I had.
I like your videos, you do things clean and clear! Do you have any videos on shortening RCA cables? Im stuck with the most ridiculously long cable and im planning on cutting it down ti save some money seems pretty straight forward.
Nice job! Have you ever tried wrapping that techflex with electrical tape and then cutting through the tape with scissors to prevent it from fraying? Oh and have you ever used non insulated butt connectors and heat shrink? That's what I prefer to use, since it gives a little cleaner look.
Do you have videos on how to mount to the chassis? Like how did you mount your power distribution rack?
I should have mentioned that, good catch. Its looped for two reasons, its just a random piece of wire I had already made up, notice I didn't take the time to put any techflex on it, this is because I was waiting on some crimp connections and new wire. Secondly the reason I left some play in everything is I plan on mounting the distro blocks in a fiberglass panel raised from their current location, I will shorten as needed once I do that. Yes the remote is overkill, thanks for watching!
Thanks man, I would appreciate that, what do you think of my editing? Coming along?
I bet those massive amps stay nice and cool in that spare tire well. Do you leave them uncovered? Do you leave anything for airflow?
Thank you for all the useful info! Could you recommend a brand or even a type of RCA cables that will help shield noise and interference? Thank you!
I love terminal blocks, but check out the ones with little clear plexi covers, about 3$ each. They make whole fuse panels that can give your 12v stuff clean looking additional fusing.
Great videos.. thank you. I am new to all this and cant wait to build my first system...
Do you still have those fosgate amps? I was wondering if they are comparable to the new micro amps wattage wise and maybe test them out to see if there's any drop in performance by going with the smaller amp. I'm seriously considering using the micro amps for my next build.
I have a poping sound coming from my speaker on the dash of my 07 Jeep Commander Overland. This just all of the sudden started happening about 2+ month's ago. I assumed my factory speaker was bad, so I bought 2 bran new ones. It is still doing it, it's only coming from the passenger side. I haven't changed anything on my unit since I have owned it. It is a aftermarket in dash dvd/navigation Kenwood DNN992.
Sweet video as always, I find that all of your videos are very easy to follow and great for learning. Looking forward to applying some of the techniques to my celica :)
Hey Mark! I love your videos! I was hoping you would do a video talking about when you should install a capacitor, second battery, and/or a second/bigger alternator; as well as, installation/wiring videos of them. Your videos are alway very detailed and better done than the others out there, that’s why I was hoping to see your inputs and how-to’s on the subject.
Never use capacitors that are advertised in farads
Most head units have a turn on lead that will tell your amplifiers when to turn on, unfortunately the amount of current it provides can be minimal and may not be enough to turn on multiple amplifiers. Using a relay removes this issue, you are turning on a small switch that supplies a larger amount of current to items that need to be switched on and off, this way you can also add other items, like leds, more amps, processors, etc. Slam that like button on my videos! Thanks for watching!
Hi, can you please go over the whole set up you have in this video, what's what, why you doing it this way and what it does. I wasn't sure what all I was seeing in your video, thanks. Love your work by the way.
if you use a lighter a melt the end of the flex stuff over the wire it stops it from fraying out like that, i use to make harnesses for aircraft and thats a little trick i picked up
I found out you can also heat up a knife with a torch, then it slides right through. Thanks for watching.
I hope you're seriously not using a lighter on aircraft.
Good day Mark. Is running power cables for your amps in Tech Flex better than running them in split loom then Tesa taping the split loom with heat shrink on the ends?
Depends on application. Plastic loom is certainly more durable IMO
Thanks man. I've been watching a lot on here and I'm looking forward to trying some of your techniques. Just got a flush trim bit the other day. Flippin awesome!
Should I ground my 2 amps to the frame under the vehicle or just metal inside
so the distributer box is for the positive wire you have 3 positives coming out(2 for the amps and one for the remote) and the same for the negative distributer.what are the other 2 blue boxes and what is the purpose of a terminal block. and shouldn't there be a fuse in between the positive and negative of the relay and on the remote wire?
hey is there a video showing the wiring diagram that you used for this installation?
So its cool to have a second amps remote turn on connected to the first amps turn on? Can this be done with 3 or 4 amps, or would a relay be recommended?
I just noticed it was lit up blue under the distribution blocks. where are the led's? directly under the middle of each block?
Hi I see you show from Puerto Rico how do you make fiberglass door panel with out using the original door panel
Also, just throwing out an idea for a video; How about one explaining Terminal & Distribution blocks, why they are different, and why they can be a huge help!
probably best install is you don't see any wires. btw, i like zip ties, i had my bumper held on with zip ties :) it holds tight!
Best install is one with wires either SUPER clean, or hidden and clean.
Wiring is one of the best ways to tell good installers from the rest.
If the hidden wires are clean, then you know they are good.
i like steve meade installs. professional.
Great set of video's. I noticed that when you installed zip ties, you cut them with regular cutters. This leaves a very sharp edge that can cut. There are diagonal cutters that are for electrical work that are flush cut. There is only one one side with a bevel cut in them. These are great for cutting zip ties and small electrical wires. Hope this helps you "bump up" your how to video's.
Well, I'm very late, but a nail clipper cuts arcs so it's a good solution :D
Were did u get the terminal block I need a few please and thank you
I have a question. Is it ok to run the amp signal wire along side of rca's and speaker wires? My amp will be in the boot and this "turn on wire " is the only 12 v wire i need to run from front to back , as the battery is in the boot. Thanks and regards
Where do you get your techflex, heat shrink and carpet?
Good job. Looks clean.
ya tried melting the techflex ends around a spare wire with a torch? The melted ends will be covered with heat shink.. worth a try.
Awesome video! I actually took a few notes. Thanks!
Thanks man! Put the techniques to good use!
You make the best videos!
Other than looks what is the point of using techflex? From what I see its just decorations.
what rcas were those?
Get to work! Thanks for watching.
Do I need to run fuses, after my power disturbion blocks or is the 1 near the battery engouh or should i run fuses on all 3 power cables?( 1 near battery 2 after block)
What do you think about this? When running ares down the length of the vehicle, the power is down one sie, and signal runs down the other.
Where did you get the distribution block from?
should be be upgrading the stock wires from door speakers. do I just wire over that or do u take them out. and also how do u make your speaker wires to rca so to cab plug straight into head unit. in still a little confused how to wire my door speakers I'm bout to get. thanks for any help guys
Mike Mathews if you are getting replacements that require some power, say over 40 watts rms, I would definitely get an amplifier. A two channel or 4 if your running all four speakers. A typical head unit will only give you about 5-10 watts rms, it won't be enough to make them sound the way they should. If you don't want to do that, order the metra speaker wire harness for your vehicle for a couple dollars each, and just hook the little box to the one in your door, then the + to + and - to - on your speaker and that's it. If you get an amp later, run rca wire to your amp from head unit. Then run 12-16 gauge wire under your carpet or panels to the front and when you get to the little rubber boot that goes to your door, tape a thicker wire or something similar to your wire and use some grease to lube it up, and push it thru where the factory wires are and then undo all the tape and crimp the little spade connectors to the wires and plug them in. A simple amp kit will give you all this stuff except some grease and tape. But if you want good sound, you have already bought a new deck, and speakers, go ahead and get a descent 4 or 2 channel amp for less than 200 bucks and you will really see the speakers shine. Get a two channel If you just want to get your front door speakers, and you can run some sensitive 6x9s or whatever is in the back off the deck power with the metra connectors I mentioned that you can find on amazon for cheap. Just put in your vehicle make and year and pick out any speaker and they will suggest you buy the metra plugs anyways. Just take a look. I hope I cleared that up for you. And also, I would leave whatever wire that is in the door where it is as long as it's no longer hooked up that way it does not interfere with the other wire and "talk" to each other. Plus they are sometimes a real pain to remove, especially in the door jamb. Plus when you sell the car you can get your speakers out and put the old ones back in easily. Good luck.
J Stevens thank you so much for the detailed and thoughtful response. also I apologize for all the typos in the first message.
so I'm getting there in terms of my system. I bought 6.5" speakers and a Rockford fosgate 400.4. and I understand clearly now that the speaker wire will be upgraded and ran under floorboard to amp, I already ran wires through this path for my subs. but that leads me to my next question,
if you'd be so kind to respond. How should I connect rcas to both amps. a y-splitter? my amp is a mmats, very nice amp 1400.1d, but there's only rca inputs, no output. same with the rf 400.4, no outputs. should I just use two y-splitters on the rca cable I currently have running back. this will cut voltage in half though won't it? I'm hesitant to use a splitter. or do I run two rcas? I have a third amp, it's a mean machine and it does have outputs so I could "chain" them together but that mmats is a Fucking beast. thank you in advance for any advice and/or input.
Mike Mathews if you have a sub amp and a 4 channel, I would think you would have separate rcas for both on your head unit. If not I'm not sure. But you shouldn't mix the signals. You should have/get a hu with rcas for your mains, and rcas for a sub output. If not I'm not sure. Check and let me know. If not we may have to search around. Lol.
have you ever had any problems by not having that long remote distribution bar uncovered? .. I'm needing to do that very thing
Can u tell me what size wire u use , name of tha amps , fuse , RCA cables etc .. thanks a lot
I was sold a small deep cycle battery second battery is it worth getting a battery isolator
What is the cleanest source of music from your basic HU? I always listen to Pandora from my phone via 3.5mm cable. I always hear noise after a few weeks with each new wire, especially when phone is charging. It's not my HU, cds sound fine, bit what would be better? I see many people using thumb drives. But I don't download much music. Blu-tooth?
J Stevens USB is probably best, then aux and CD, Bluetooth is by far the worst. the noise is from it charge on a grounding loop.
God LovesAtheist /(/))//))))))))/)))))
Prior to feeding cable to tech flex, use a lit lighter to burn ends, this will prevent fraying.
what's with the use for relay for the remote cable?
roylikesitlikethat I believe it's to keep the amp from shorting in case of a a overload. I have my relays fused and my turn ons fused from the relays. It may seem a bit of Overkill but, it has saved me so, much as I rearrange and upgrade my system. I started from two amps and a epicenter and added a 30 band eq, a dxdq for time delay and minor eq for rear, 2 more amps for the midbass and dead areas in the back seat. I have rebuilt by hatch area 3 times and have blow some the fuses in the process. Luckily, all is well. Being limited in time and raising a kid while working full time keeps me always rushing to finish up each day. Those fuses have saved me $1000s in burnt equipment. I noticed when I'm testing out some LEDs or something to dress it up, if half ass it, those fuses blow but anything on the relays and fused properly, doesn't have any issues. It's the accidental and fatigue variables that bring the problems. That is why I fuse so much. My safety net. I have over $5k in equipment alone and why....your guess is as good as mine. It sound amazing, though. Critical mass is the shit. It sounds better than real life and has scared me on more than one occasion. Like someone was in the car with me. Creepy as hell
Knukonceptz Krystal, hope all is well with the Cobalt dude!
this is good but as a car audio installer in hard times u got to go with wat is cheep and by cheep i mean to try and not spend to much time or money on some things that are not required ... but its a great video i need to start making mines more pro
yes... you probably should
the only thing i need to do it, ziptie my wires and it looks clean straight to the amp. do it right or dont do it at all... come on car fires rre a BAD thing!!!
What size techflex do you use for 4 gauge and 0/1 gauge power wire?
Searched the internet on custom sizing RCA cables, couldn't find one. If anyone better to explain this it would be you. It be nice if you did! Thanks for the vids!!!
Not really, run flats my friend. This vehicle does not have a spare from the factory, the over sized brakes and difference in width from front to back will not allow you to simply have a "donut" spare.
Nice clean job, good video, especially for explaining about cable protection through bulkheads or whatever.
Whats the story with the looped ground cable on the left? Why waste so much cable, ground cabling should be as short as possible, no? And your remote looks like 12ga cable, looks like overkill to me.
Haha nice, you and I will have to have a "techflex off" sometime!
The same reason there is a long terminal strip, I plan on adding a ton of other items. I mentioned this in the video. Thanks for watching.
Hi. What the correct name for red item you use to cover the cable? Am know black also available but cannot recall the name.
c4prlm4st3r Techflex. Check out our friends at wirecare.com to get some.
+c4prlm4st3r Did you not watch the video? He fucking mentioned it 15 times.
tec 9 let the guy ask his question mabe he's not from the states and doesn't understand what was said exactly. some people need to grow up.
BTW the correct name for this is Braided Cable Sleeve
ermmm..sorry dude..as i say i know the thing but cannot recall the name for it. So questioning something am not sure make me guilty. yes am not from the state. sorry if my question bothering you.
I got two, should I do the same?
no electrician but i dont think it was that messy to me messy wiring is that can catch a spark if you turn to hard lose connections lose electrical taping any wiring hanging loose and such if you keep things from moving around and if you think bout it all amps have built in protection so a fuse box really not needed but it's good to have the amp just go in protection mode as long as the wire dont have expose wire then you should be good
another tip, use flush cutters on the zip ties so you don't rip you hand open on them.
I got this particular one from partsexpress
Doesnt the positive lead to battery need to be disconnected as well? I ll just stick to that process.
what gauge wire coming off the relay to the distro block or part # for the distro block
Where can I get a distribution for a 16 gauge power wire for my dsp
Haha glad you like it! Take care
done it !
i burned once an amplifier, i had a short at the head unit (actually it was the interior light that melted, fuse was oversized,so i almost set my van on fire!!!) that caused overcurrent on the remote wire and destroyed the amp
why do you have the remote wire hooked up to a relay?
where do you buy your relays?
Wow, thank you!
Just a heads up u should get/use flush cuts on the ties when u cut em like that they basically become razors and will cut yourself
Search "thread setter car audio" on youtube and it is the top video
Thanks!