No. Higher kv ratings are great for caller motors to give small planes the power they need. But kv ratings itself is just revolutions per min. Higher same size motor with a higher kv will gain you more speed/power. Goingfrom a 4250 540kv to a 4250 580kv gained me slightly more speed and considerably more power than I had with stock 540kv.
What exactly are the “metal side plates” for the landing gear you refer to? Part number ? Where can upgrades be purchased. I would like to buy this warbird with the landing gear upgrade if needed. Thanks
If you buy one new out of the box now, it will come with upgraded landing gear retracts. The metal side plates we're for the earlier retracts on this model prior to 2018. That gear developed a lot of slop after a few Landings and would crack the side housing on the retracts. And outside custom vendor created the metal side plates. Those plates won't fit on the newer landing gear retracts, and they are not needed on the newer ones. All of these made and boxed after March of 2018 would have the newer upgraded landing gear retract installed
hujum1 awesome.... thank you for the feedback! Would you still recommend this warbird? I am particularly interested because of the nice detail and Red tail for visual orientation.
@@stevemartinez2418 oh yeah. While I am sure that the newer E-Flite version is a much easier build and transportable plane... $400+ is a lot to pay. This plane I believe is in the just below $300 range. It flies very easy and very graceful. Especially with the FMS 580 in place of the 540. It can be dangerously easy to fly. That comfort can make you take greater risk with this... Like flying too low. So be careful. The biggest obstacle with this is overcoming the planes tendency to pull hard left on takeoff roll. It was to turn left into the grass. I find it easier to get the tail up of the back wheel quick so that I have better rudder correction to straighten it out. That's the only real learning curve with this.
It is notably the best and easiest to fly electric P-51 out there. It is smooth and seems to fly itself. Lands easily. You just have to get past a few assembly workarounds....sort of like a Dynam. But it flys and handles a ton better than any of those newer 1.1m or 1.2m P-51s available now. Pretty much anyone whose had a chance to fly all of these will validate that. Most of the negatives have been with the retracts, but they all come with newer upgraded retracts now.
I was going to purchase the FMS Mustang but it's just a little too big 55 inches is my limit anything over won't fit in the car unless I remove the wing so I bought the freewing P-51 Mustang it got better reviews I read reviews on both and the FMS has too many negatives it's is a beautiful plane and I like the battery tray but people were complaining about the screws something about them being Too short and the landing gear which I know FMS upgrade the landing gear I believe they're both the same price I buy from motion RC they have both planes but the FMS is a larger plane and it's just a little too big and plus people are saying it's very slow and on top of that seeing both planes the freewing is built better the wings have hinged" flaps, ailerons, and rudder, which I think is a must for a plane that size but anyways as long as you're happy that's what counts happy flying God bless
@@Johns-qr7ek The Freewing Old Crow is a nice size airplane. It also has landing lights which is real nice. I would have gotten the same one if it had a 4 blade prop. That was a must for me. Otherwise I would have the 55in. Old Crow.
Always a great learning experience watching videos like this one...yours. 'May come as a shock, but I do actually listen to your self-critique, and that of others, to make mental note of for what I hope is the main reason you post: that guys like me can benefit. For this, thanks. Now, in view of the justifiable concerns raised by the volatility of the LiPo batteries these planes operate by, can you offer any guidance for storing them when your not flying? Thanks again!
George Cooper Jr . I've always been very fire conscious. I guess that comes from my Navy days and all of those safety stand down horror stories. So I am still not completely comfortable with these batteries unless they were in a concrete case buried below ground to keep them cool or put in a concrete shed that stayed cool. But that is not an option for me or for most people. So. I try to always return them to near storage voltage after use....or....in case they are fully charged and I do not end up useing them; if I don't intend to use them the next day, I will return them to storage charge of 3.80 volts per cell. I figure that is s safe static state as that is how they ship them through the U.S.mail system when they send them to you...or...whenthey ship them in bulk to the hobby shops. I have a basement in my house that stays around 55 -65 degrees all summer. I store them in their charging bags and place them in a tub inside my iron wood stove, which is in the cool basement and doesn't get used in the summer. That should contain them if there was a battery fire. I hope anyway. It's solid steel and is chimney'd outside. But there are many bags of batteries in there. I'm counting on their individual fireproof charging bags to keep them from a chain reaction. There is no guarantee though. But as long as they are all at storage charge....it should be fine. Stores and shops keep hundreds of them stacked together at storage charge all the time every day and they are not even in fireproof bags. So apparently that is safe. Just keep them where it is preferably. Below 70 degrees would be my advise. I wish I could charge mine outdoors, and in the future I may, but for now I do it in the basement near the center of the concrete floor because the temperature is cool down there. I the winter it is more tricky as I use the wood stove that time of the year. Then I keep them in their fireproof charging bags at storage voltage on a tub on the concrete floor under a metal shelf where grandkids won't their hands on them. That is less than ideal for me, but once again...at storage charge, all should be fine (should).
Thanks, hujum1...this advisory-reply carries significant weight for me and I do appreciate the assist. You speak of your Navy days...I tip my hat to you sir; serving aboard a ship so far from terra firma. This perspective had nothing to do with any water phobia; I've always been comfortable as a swimmer. It was more the thought of getting trapped below decks...between bulkheads, below the waterline, like on a carrier. Although I wasn't Navy, I can still relate from a Regular Army perspective. Its likely that your issues for stepping out of a military aircraft at altitude are the very inverse of mine about service aboard ship. In any event, since we're both able to look back through the years and memories to share with each other in the "here-and-now", there was always a Higher Hand on each of our shoulders to bring us this far, not entirely by our own strength. Thanks again, hujum1...
I gonna pull the trigger on this one on Monday (motionrc.com) and will do the upgrades on the motor and the retracts too! I maybe upgrade the ESC to a 85amp also..Not necessary but a little more room to play on. The FMS 4250-580kV motor which will pull 62A (static), and don`t know how much it will pull momently to full trust...so.. :)
Bjørnar Senstad. It certainly can't hurt. One day I may do the same. I'm sure the draw is much less in the air though. Are you getting the CNC Small parts side plates or the CNC whole gear assemblies?
Only the side plates, I hope that`s enough, it look`s that the rest of it is solid! Anyway if you have real heavy pancake landing everything brakes, is always a weak spot somewhere ;) Will try my best to land the beauty so soft and gentle as possible :)
Bjørnar Senstad. I have the plates. They work well. But there is a good bit of play ( front to rear slop); more than there was before I installed them. The original plastic side plates began to have more slop after each landing. The metal side plates have slop due to fit, but it does not get progressively worse. I was able to shim the gap between the metal plate and the movable trunion block with clear plastic sheets ( plastic document or report covers) trimmed to size, in order reduce the play. It has worked and what little play is there now does not get worse. It just remains the same.
Yeah. I could only deal with the stock motor for about 3 flights before I had to upgrade. Most guys upgrade to a 650 kv with some sort with a new engine mount. I didn't want to do too much extra work. So I went one size up to A FMS 580kv motor from the stock 540. It's not a rocket ship, but it's more scale and a bit faster and has more power in climbs.
The new e-flite version of this same FMS model with all the upgrades and AS3X is much faster and more powerful....but also cost a lot more. I don't want to spend $400 on one of these. Because with the exception of the improved wrong connections and the AS3X system... It's the same plane with the same old parts. From what I saw looking at one anyway
AWSOME FLYING FIELD!!!!
From what ive seen the higher the kv the smaller the motor, so if your goal was more power isnt going from a 540kv to a 580 the wrong direction?
No. Higher kv ratings are great for caller motors to give small planes the power they need. But kv ratings itself is just revolutions per min. Higher same size motor with a higher kv will gain you more speed/power.
Goingfrom a 4250 540kv to a 4250 580kv gained me slightly more speed and considerably more power than I had with stock 540kv.
@@markhyde43 did you have to upgrade the Speed control? and could you have gone to 5s battery?
What exactly are the “metal side plates” for the landing gear you refer to? Part number ? Where can upgrades be purchased. I would like to buy this warbird with the landing gear upgrade if needed. Thanks
If you buy one new out of the box now, it will come with upgraded landing gear retracts. The metal side plates we're for the earlier retracts on this model prior to 2018. That gear developed a lot of slop after a few Landings and would crack the side housing on the retracts. And outside custom vendor created the metal side plates. Those plates won't fit on the newer landing gear retracts, and they are not needed on the newer ones. All of these made and boxed after March of 2018 would have the newer upgraded landing gear retract installed
hujum1 awesome.... thank you for the feedback! Would you still recommend this warbird? I am particularly interested because of the nice detail and Red tail for visual orientation.
@@stevemartinez2418 oh yeah. While I am sure that the newer E-Flite version is a much easier build and transportable plane... $400+ is a lot to pay.
This plane I believe is in the just below $300 range. It flies very easy and very graceful. Especially with the FMS 580 in place of the 540.
It can be dangerously easy to fly. That comfort can make you take greater risk with this... Like flying too low. So be careful.
The biggest obstacle with this is overcoming the planes tendency to pull hard left on takeoff roll. It was to turn left into the grass. I find it easier to get the tail up of the back wheel quick so that I have better rudder correction to straighten it out. That's the only real learning curve with this.
Welp.....I appreciate all your feedback... I just ordered one from Horizon for $299 😬
And do you try whit only two-blade propeller ?
No. I am all about scale looking. Even though I hear that they are better with 2 blades, I have to have the four for realism.
@@markhyde43 yes it's true that it's beautiful with the four blades, but tomorrow morning I'm going to try
Thank you for the video, does it come with LED lights?
It comes with wing tip lights. That's all.
what size prop is their
Put the fms 650kv motor on mind and did a prop mod and it is super fast
One of these days I may do the same
Hi! Is it a good 3rd plane?
I don't know if I would recommend this plane I read a lot of negative reviews
It is notably the best and easiest to fly electric P-51 out there. It is smooth and seems to fly itself. Lands easily. You just have to get past a few assembly workarounds....sort of like a Dynam. But it flys and handles a ton better than any of those newer 1.1m or 1.2m P-51s available now. Pretty much anyone whose had a chance to fly all of these will validate that.
Most of the negatives have been with the retracts, but they all come with newer upgraded retracts now.
I was going to purchase the FMS Mustang but it's just a little too big 55 inches is my limit anything over won't fit in the car unless I remove the wing so I bought the freewing P-51 Mustang it got better reviews I read reviews on both and the FMS has too many negatives it's is a beautiful plane and I like the battery tray but people were complaining about the screws something about them being Too short and the landing gear which I know FMS upgrade the landing gear I believe they're both the same price I buy from motion RC they have both planes but the FMS is a larger plane and it's just a little too big and plus people are saying it's very slow and on top of that seeing both planes the freewing is built better the wings have hinged" flaps, ailerons, and rudder, which I think is a must for a plane that size but anyways as long as you're happy that's what counts happy flying God bless
@@Johns-qr7ek The Freewing Old Crow is a nice size airplane. It also has landing lights which is real nice. I would have gotten the same one if it had a 4 blade prop. That was a must for me. Otherwise I would have the 55in. Old Crow.
Nice 👊👊👍👍👍
Always a great learning experience watching videos like this one...yours.
'May come as a shock, but I do actually listen to your self-critique, and that of others, to make mental note of for what I hope is the main reason you post: that guys like me can benefit.
For this, thanks.
Now, in view of the justifiable concerns raised by the volatility of the LiPo batteries these planes operate by, can you offer any guidance for storing them when your not flying?
Thanks again!
George Cooper Jr . I've always been very fire conscious. I guess that comes from my Navy days and all of those safety stand down horror stories. So I am still not completely comfortable with these batteries unless they were in a concrete case buried below ground to keep them cool or put in a concrete shed that stayed cool. But that is not an option for me or for most people.
So.
I try to always return them to near storage voltage after use....or....in case they are fully charged and I do not end up useing them; if I don't intend to use them the next day, I will return them to storage charge of 3.80 volts per cell. I figure that is s safe static state as that is how they ship them through the U.S.mail system when they send them to you...or...whenthey ship them in bulk to the hobby shops.
I have a basement in my house that stays around 55 -65 degrees all summer. I store them in their charging bags and place them in a tub inside my iron wood stove, which is in the cool basement and doesn't get used in the summer. That should contain them if there was a battery fire. I hope anyway. It's solid steel and is chimney'd outside. But there are many bags of batteries in there. I'm counting on their individual fireproof charging bags to keep them from a chain reaction. There is no guarantee though. But as long as they are all at storage charge....it should be fine. Stores and shops keep hundreds of them stacked together at storage charge all the time every day and they are not even in fireproof bags. So apparently that is safe.
Just keep them where it is preferably. Below 70 degrees would be my advise.
I wish I could charge mine outdoors, and in the future I may, but for now I do it in the basement near the center of the concrete floor because the temperature is cool down there.
I the winter it is more tricky as I use the wood stove that time of the year. Then I keep them in their fireproof charging bags at storage voltage on a tub on the concrete floor under a metal shelf where grandkids won't their hands on them. That is less than ideal for me, but once again...at storage charge, all should be fine (should).
Thanks, hujum1...this advisory-reply carries significant weight for me and I do appreciate the assist.
You speak of your Navy days...I tip my hat to you sir; serving aboard a ship so far from terra firma. This perspective had nothing to do with any water phobia; I've always been comfortable as a swimmer. It was more the thought of getting trapped below decks...between bulkheads, below the waterline, like on a carrier.
Although I wasn't Navy, I can still relate from a Regular Army perspective.
Its likely that your issues for stepping out of a military aircraft at altitude are the very inverse of mine about service aboard ship.
In any event, since we're both able to look back through the years and memories to share with each other in the "here-and-now", there was always a Higher Hand on each of our shoulders to bring us this far, not entirely by our own strength.
Thanks again, hujum1...
George Cooper Jr . No worries. Glad I could help.
You fly with the stock ESC I suppose?
Bjørnar Senstad yes. It has the stock ESC and the recommended FMS 4250 580kv motor upgrade.
I gonna pull the trigger on this one on Monday (motionrc.com) and will do the upgrades on the motor and the retracts too! I maybe upgrade the ESC to a 85amp also..Not necessary but a little more room to play on. The FMS 4250-580kV motor which will pull 62A (static), and don`t know how much it will pull momently to full trust...so.. :)
Bjørnar Senstad. It certainly can't hurt. One day I may do the same. I'm sure the draw is much less in the air though. Are you getting the CNC Small parts side plates or the CNC whole gear assemblies?
Only the side plates, I hope that`s enough, it look`s that the rest of it is solid! Anyway if you have real heavy pancake landing everything brakes, is always a weak spot somewhere ;) Will try my best to land the beauty so soft and gentle as possible :)
Bjørnar Senstad. I have the plates. They work well. But there is a good bit of play ( front to rear slop); more than there was before I installed them. The original plastic side plates began to have more slop after each landing. The metal side plates have slop due to fit, but it does not get progressively worse. I was able to shim the gap between the metal plate and the movable trunion block with clear plastic sheets ( plastic document or report covers) trimmed to size, in order reduce the play. It has worked and what little play is there now does not get worse. It just remains the same.
Nice flite
Hello I have exactly the same one and I am disappointed because it is much too slow , my AT6 Iflite is mucht faster this P51 FMS it's a calf
Yeah. I could only deal with the stock motor for about 3 flights before I had to upgrade.
Most guys upgrade to a 650 kv with some sort with a new engine mount.
I didn't want to do too much extra work. So I went one size up to A FMS 580kv motor from the stock 540. It's not a rocket ship, but it's more scale and a bit faster and has more power in climbs.
The new e-flite version of this same FMS model with all the upgrades and AS3X is much faster and more powerful....but also cost a lot more. I don't want to spend $400 on one of these.
Because with the exception of the improved wrong connections and the AS3X system... It's the same plane with the same old parts. From what I saw looking at one anyway
@@markhyde43 yes that's what they told me but hey !! it still bought an engine + an esc
@@markhyde43 I paid 345€ ! look the P51 eflite 1M50
it could be not so bad !
@@hoangchris9413 if I ever have tio replace mine; I will probably get the E-Flite