This wave was the first wave I ever caught in Puerto, and she sure gave me a welcome! Filmed with a go pro I'm my mouth and by Daniel Flash Navara (R.I.P Legend for ever and always)
So relatable!! I was taking a lesson in Puerto Rico and this happened. It was my first time in overhead waves and it was 8 feet and heavy. Had a 2 wave hold down with at least 6 somersaults and like 2 more with just three breaths in between. When I finally got out I just sat down in the first beach chair I could find. That was enough for one day. Even though I was only ten minutes in. I didn't even care the instructor was just shaking his head
magentawave If you want the ultimate, you've got to be willing to pay the ultimate price. Doesn't it feel great, though, knowing that you put yourself in that kind of situation and came out the other end unscathed? It's the ultimate learning experience.
+Moo Kroo you normally want to take one of the last waves of the set so that 1) your paddle back out to the lineup is easier and 3) the wave Is normally bigger
Adam Smith it was only about 10-15 seconds each hold down but I couldn't imagine the force on your body from waves like that. Never even came close to surfing something like puerto
I've gotten beatings in only 9ft surf, it's so intense, your lungs are burning from the breath holds and your head aches from lack of oxygen plus your heart is racing which makes everything worse, my worst beating only lasted 2 minutes but it felt like ages
Love it. I remember my first Puerto wave. My buddies told me when you think you have the wave take a few more paddles to make sure you make it down the face. I forgot! When I thought I had the wave, I stood up like I done a thousand times before on non-Puerto waves. I got pitched right over the top> I got pounded and worked. Lost my board. Finally made it to shore with about 1/2 the sand from the beach up my ass and nostrils. Finally found my board down the beach, luckily still in one piece. It is a moment burned in my memory. The next day I remembered and caught the best wave of my life. I was hooked. Eventually, I got my timing down and caught plenty of waves, but even still had some pretty nasty wipe outs, but none quite like that first one.
Rick Lloyd my first wave there was almost exactly the same. It took me two weeks of pretty serious beatings to get it wired. But all I had was a 6-9, which is too small for double overhead puerto. I have no idea how that board survived without breaking with all the gas I took there.
My first wave in ‘85 was much the same. Got pitched on a backside takeoff, landed on my head in the trough, almost broke my eardrum. It took me a week of beatings before I got the drop down. Foolishly riding a 6-9 in double overhead Puerto. But it was all I had, being young and poor!
I feel like when you get thrashed around that hard you see red for a second like on the camera when your eyes are closed. This is a unique perspective, not many people are going to show you the reality of surfing waves this big.
Been there, done that in Puerto. Mowed by a 30 foot wave one fine day, it took me 20 0r 30 minutes of swimming and getting slammed by many, many waves to make the final 30 yards to the beach. I found my board hours later way down the beach. I was so exhausted that I just laid on the sand for half an hour before I could get up.
+Kelly M yeah, and it's also that you don't have a timer that says 'only 3 seconds left'. Just staying cool and not panicking is easier said than done.
0:30 he says 'fuck this' Badass vid. Usually its vids of guys showing how cool they are or whatever, but this guy shows himself getting his shit packed in the nastiest washing machine ever. Good stuff.
That was epic! The whole "washing-machine" effect was well documented. Brought back memories. Sorry you had to take a beating to get that footage, but if anyone wonders what surfing big waves entails, this vid is classroom material. Respect..
This is a horror flick my heart's pumping I've been there broken leashes broken head come close to Drowning twice wouldn't trade it for anything that's living man thanks for the video you're awesome
That reminds me not to catch the first wave of a heavy incoming set. I started thinking half way through 'oh, not another one'. Well done to get through that!
Fucking A man, serious props. That's a heavy set, but I'm actually surprised your hold downs didn't last longer. And holy shit, you got back to shore FAST. I didn't realize it broke that close to the beach :/
Surfed Puerto for a solid 25 years, yep you can get humbled big time out there.I would hear newer guys talking big, I would remind them who was in charge out there. The Pacific Ocean
i had the same experience at Mundaka, almost died. I had like 10 waves over my head, and i was always sinking on each lip, always at the same place, and i was drowning, it was huge, i decide in the last moment to not sink too much from the surface of the sea, and i just went 30 cm from the sea level, and the next lip , throw me from where i was, and i ended far form the great explosion and i survive. ended like Robinson Crusoe, at the sand, and praying, even i dont believe in god. This change of action save me.
Puerto is very serious over 10ft lest we forget its a beach break with current and unpredictable ever shifting peaks. Training for it is a requisite. Training has you confident so you can relax in these situations. Even if your leash breaks it should make no difference. Get back to the beach ASAP by staying with the whitewater. You can then regroup. Not getting to the beach during this set means a good chance of getting pulled out in the rip with all the energy moving back out to sea.
I was glad when he finally washed up on shore. I was thinking dont fight it let the waves push u to the beach. joey gale and bernie know from experience. Not their first rodeo in big surf. Rest in peace mark foo.
wow, i had the same experience, and i also remember my lungs having spams as they were instinctively asking for air, this is the moment you have to put your hand on your mouth so the water doesn t get in ....
Quick important tip for holding your breath longer: The burning we feel in our lungs when holding our breath is due to carbon dioxide (CO2). When we inhale a breath of air, we are inhaling oxygen, but our lungs convert it to CO2 which is bad for your body and your body wants it out of you which is what causes that burning feeling. So if you’re ever caught inside like our friend Taz, exhale all the air out of your lungs to get all that CO2 out, then take a deep breath into your stomach expanding your diaphragm to get as much oxygen as possible before a wave hits you and you’ll be able to hold you’re breath much longer under water! 🤙❤️
@@melissaku8304 Really? All it is, is exhaling as much air out as possible then quickly inhaling as much air as possible which shouldn't take more than 5 seconds. Maybe you're doing it too slow. Usually it takes around 5 seconds at most so when a wave is barreling at you, time it accordingly.
Mateusz Warchol Meh, never surfed Peurto but surfed waves this size. It's hectic sometimes but quite frankly I feel that I can survive much more of a beating. Only problem is I don't have a big enough board to charge any bigger than I already have. Tbh the main thing is the fear aspect. The waves LOOK extremely scary and being tossed around in the dark with no air and no idea of when you'll get up for air again, that's the real issue. In the end, we can handle a lot more physically than mentally when it comes to wipeouts.
i've never faced huge waves like that, but i wonder why don't you let them take you to the shore? (i know that probably there's an obvious answer that i'm missing here, but i really dont understand)
I nearly broke my neck body surfing there many years ago. While I was sitting on the beach recuperating, some surfer dude was drifting into the rocks. Mexican marines in black uniforms watched from the beach and were laughing and I think were placing bets on him. His girlfriend swam out and dragged him back to the beach and saved his ass.
It's so hard to come back to the lineup after being caught inside in Puerto Escondido. It's almost like Zicatela is telling you "get the FUCK out" lol. I was in that situation last week, terrifying shit.
I just went through a pummeling like this during a big swell at Guinones/Nosara. This ought to be an instructional video in how to survive a set worth of waves rolling over you: Don’t panic, Time your breathing, get your board, get out of the way. Note: yelling HOLY FUCK does not necessarily indicate panic! Just a level-headed assessment of the situation.
He kept doing the same mystake, In a spot like that you got be in the outside and never go in the first one. What a beating...i would have done the same thing and go back to the land.
When you're caught on the inside it's like damn when are the swells going to stop at least for a minute and they just don't they keep on freaking coming
This is one of those times when you finally get in onto the shore and say to yourself: "Yep....I'm done."
lihxc sounds like the first time I actually tried go surf. never could even make it out there...
So relatable!! I was taking a lesson in Puerto Rico and this happened. It was my first time in overhead waves and it was 8 feet and heavy. Had a 2 wave hold down with at least 6 somersaults and like 2 more with just three breaths in between. When I finally got out I just sat down in the first beach chair I could find. That was enough for one day. Even though I was only ten minutes in. I didn't even care the instructor was just shaking his head
"Man I can't leave like this", And then goes back.
more like "Yep....I´m done.... for today"
magentawave
If you want the ultimate, you've got to be willing to pay the ultimate price.
Doesn't it feel great, though, knowing that you put yourself in that kind of situation and came out the other end unscathed? It's the ultimate learning experience.
It's crazy how GoPro makes waves look smaller
Now I know how my clothes feel inside the washing machine....
never take the first wave...
I dont get that saying
If you take the first wave of a set, there are going to be more usually larger waves behind it to drown you
+Moo Kroo you normally want to take one of the last waves of the set so that 1) your paddle back out to the lineup is easier and 3) the wave Is normally bigger
+Jerry Gaper 2)*
If you do take the first wave, make sure you don't eat it. :)
Big lockdown, well done for staying calm and taking deep breaths, this is how some people die when they panic in this situation.
Rebecca Wells that’s why they train!!!!!!
Rebecca Wells exactly .
Who else unconsciously held their breath while he was underwater?
Adam Smith it was only about 10-15 seconds each hold down but I couldn't imagine the force on your body from waves like that. Never even came close to surfing something like puerto
I've gotten beatings in only 9ft surf, it's so intense, your lungs are burning from the breath holds and your head aches from lack of oxygen plus your heart is racing which makes everything worse, my worst beating only lasted 2 minutes but it felt like ages
Adam Smith how'd you know lmao
Me
Me
This is me on a day thats 4-6 ft and im surfing a beach break
Puerto is a beach break...
Well hello there anxiety...
Hello darkness my old friend..
There to test that voice in your head that tells you to stay calm....
Anybody else find themselves holding their breath with him while he was getting worked. Taz you mad man
I'M ALIAS TV haha yep
I've had those days. You know it's bad when you can see people on the beach contemplating swimming out to help you in
I was in hysterics when he said “holy fuck!” I can’t count how many times I’ve uttered those same words in that exact same scenario.
Had me gasping for breath at my desk!
+Andy Haumersen choking on the foam
Love it. I remember my first Puerto wave. My buddies told me when you think you have the wave take a few more paddles to make sure you make it down the face. I forgot! When I thought I had the wave, I stood up like I done a thousand times before on non-Puerto waves. I got pitched right over the top> I got pounded and worked. Lost my board. Finally made it to shore with about 1/2 the sand from the beach up my ass and nostrils. Finally found my board down the beach, luckily still in one piece. It is a moment burned in my memory. The next day I remembered and caught the best wave of my life. I was hooked. Eventually, I got my timing down and caught plenty of waves, but even still had some pretty nasty wipe outs, but none quite like that first one.
Rick Lloyd my first wave there was almost exactly the same. It took me two weeks of pretty serious beatings to get it wired. But all I had was a 6-9, which is too small for double overhead puerto. I have no idea how that board survived without breaking with all the gas I took there.
My first wave in ‘85 was much the same. Got pitched on a backside takeoff, landed on my head in the trough, almost broke my eardrum. It took me a week of beatings before I got the drop down. Foolishly riding a 6-9 in double overhead Puerto. But it was all I had, being young and poor!
I feel like when you get thrashed around that hard you see red for a second like on the camera when your eyes are closed. This is a unique perspective, not many people are going to show you the reality of surfing waves this big.
Been there, done that in Puerto. Mowed by a 30 foot wave one fine day, it took me 20 0r 30 minutes of swimming and getting slammed by many, many waves to make the final 30 yards to the beach. I found my board hours later way down the beach. I was so exhausted that I just laid on the sand for half an hour before I could get up.
That make 2 of us dude, what a ride Hu?
Only seconds on video but seems like a lifetime when you're under. Not to mention you're getting thrashed around. Good job not losing the camera. ;)
+Kelly M yeah, and it's also that you don't have a timer that says 'only 3 seconds left'. Just staying cool and not panicking is easier said than done.
@mistic mind rule #1 NEVER panic. stay calm. #2 control your breathing.
I take my hat off to you dude... I get zonked after copping a few four-footers on the head!
Callum Wells 4footer? That was like a 13 footer
Grant Woollaston I’m not saying that’s four foot. I’m saying I get zonked copping four footers on the head, and he’s powering through those monsters.
Huge waves = feel like a beginner again
More like feeling like a human again
0:30 he says 'fuck this'
Badass vid. Usually its vids of guys showing how cool they are or whatever, but this guy shows himself getting his shit packed in the nastiest washing machine ever. Good stuff.
That was epic! The whole "washing-machine" effect was well documented. Brought back memories. Sorry you had to take a beating to get that footage, but if anyone wonders what surfing big waves entails, this vid is classroom material. Respect..
This is a horror flick my heart's pumping I've been there broken leashes broken head come close to Drowning twice wouldn't trade it for anything that's living man thanks for the video you're awesome
Thats why i surf with full scuba gear on, and with a full tank ;)
+131rocketman wouldn't that make surfing difficult?
The focus is to make surviving less difficult
yeah true well if it works why not haha i just thought it might make the surfing a bit harder.
Dont know if thats true but that's one thing you don't want to do. If you went down that fast in scuba your lungs would literally pop and you'd die
Challenge accepted
This video shows just how u chill surfing can be. I personally have never taken an ass beating this bad in NJ lol. Props
MrAnderson234 because it’s NJ LOL. Nothing compared to these breaks that provide pure swell energy with no blockages
@@4Runner66 NJ certainly isn't on Puerto Escondido's level but it still gets pumping waves
Its happened to me once,HORRIBLE, since then , ive been training hold breathing,and IT has made the difference 👊👍
That reminds me not to catch the first wave of a heavy incoming set. I started thinking half way through 'oh, not another one'. Well done to get through that!
The key point of being held under is to stay calm this guy did the right thing, and by the way don't give him any tips if your not a surfer lmao!!
Glad to see him just head for the beach. Finally.
Never take off on the first wave of a set. Words to live by...literally.
This is some high-octane nightmare fuel. Thanks for posting!
Oh man! The sound of those waves. BOOOM!!
That was some scary shit, I can't believe you held that gopro all that time. Props for staying calm and breathing deeply!!!
Ahahahah, lovely green and red screens ;) oh the joys of getting caught on the inside when it's big eh? Love it ;) or used to love it :))
Respect.
that's crazy shit mad props to this guy right here!
Around 1:38 is the worst - like getting your bell rung in the 5th round when you're spent. You did good man.
counting the waves on the head as i practice holding my breath.
Holy fuck! Oh man you have all my respect. great video. Cheers from France
Crazy how the white water makes it so much harder to keep your head above the water
Fucking A man, serious props. That's a heavy set, but I'm actually surprised your hold downs didn't last longer. And holy shit, you got back to shore FAST. I didn't realize it broke that close to the beach :/
Surfed Puerto for a solid 25 years, yep you can get humbled big time out there.I would hear newer guys talking big, I would remind them who was in charge out there. The Pacific Ocean
i had the same experience at Mundaka, almost died. I had like 10 waves over my head, and i was always sinking on each lip, always at the same place, and i was drowning, it was huge, i decide in the last moment to not sink too much from the surface of the sea, and i just went 30 cm from the sea level, and the next lip , throw me from where i was, and i ended far form the great explosion and i survive. ended like Robinson Crusoe, at the sand, and praying, even i dont believe in god. This change of action save me.
Looks like Ocean Beach but more so. Gotta be the heaviest beachbreak.
Every surfer's worst nightmare - unless you been there then you do not understand
Respect. I have water coming out of my nose after watching
My lungs are burning just watching it
Surfed there in mid 70’s crazy beach break with some sets that pound your brains out!
Puerto is very serious over 10ft lest we forget its a beach break with current and unpredictable ever shifting peaks. Training for it is a requisite. Training has you confident so you can relax in these situations. Even if your leash breaks it should make no difference. Get back to the beach ASAP by staying with the whitewater. You can then regroup. Not getting to the beach during this set means a good chance of getting pulled out in the rip with all the energy moving back out to sea.
..for 20secs you were the king of the crest...then 2 mins being the sucker in the soup..
Okay. That was painful to watch. I can only imagine how it felt.
You took a beating and did well. Nice video.
Been there done that!
Your out there doing it, outstanding!
big ups dude, that's one hell of a beating
I was glad when he finally washed up on shore. I was thinking dont fight it let the waves push u to the beach. joey gale and bernie know from experience. Not their first rodeo in big surf. Rest in peace mark foo.
Yeah, that's how I remember it.
You kept the camera in your mouth the whole time? That's impressive...
Maybe it is tied to his chest
Damn. Puerto really is gnarlier than OB.
1st time we've seen a vid like this, excellent!
Things look like they started out pretty well, but GoPros make the water look a lot flatter than it actually is. Good job keeping calm.
wow, i had the same experience, and i also remember my lungs having spams as they were instinctively asking for air, this is the moment you have to put your hand on your mouth so the water doesn t get in ....
fair play mate, fair play. have the chills just watching this :-)
Quick important tip for holding your breath longer:
The burning we feel in our lungs when holding our breath is due to carbon dioxide (CO2). When we inhale a breath of air, we are inhaling oxygen, but our lungs convert it to CO2 which is bad for your body and your body wants it out of you which is what causes that burning feeling. So if you’re ever caught inside like our friend Taz, exhale all the air out of your lungs to get all that CO2 out, then take a deep breath into your stomach expanding your diaphragm to get as much oxygen as possible before a wave hits you and you’ll be able to hold you’re breath much longer under water! 🤙❤️
I tried to do it here at home but it takes too long to do all that 🤔 to exhale all the air and then fill my lungs with its full capacity
@@melissaku8304 Really? All it is, is exhaling as much air out as possible then quickly inhaling as much air as possible which shouldn't take more than 5 seconds. Maybe you're doing it too slow. Usually it takes around 5 seconds at most so when a wave is barreling at you, time it accordingly.
Is it just me or do big waves not hold you down for nearly as long as you'll expect...
when you actually lose control of your body with the turbulence of the wave it feels so long especially when youve just paddled out
Mateusz Warchol Meh, never surfed Peurto but surfed waves this size. It's hectic sometimes but quite frankly I feel that I can survive much more of a beating. Only problem is I don't have a big enough board to charge any bigger than I already have. Tbh the main thing is the fear aspect. The waves LOOK extremely scary and being tossed around in the dark with no air and no idea of when you'll get up for air again, that's the real issue. In the end, we can handle a lot more physically than mentally when it comes to wipeouts.
12 second rule
How did you breathe and keep the camera? Were so comfortable?
Way to take it on the head. Nice big set Waves.
At least you caught a wave
i've never faced huge waves like that, but i wonder why don't you let them take you to the shore? (i know that probably there's an obvious answer that i'm missing here, but i really dont understand)
haha typical taz nice one mate you knows how to take it on the head
Wow, I think I would have spat that Go Pro out after the second wave hit!. Well done surviving, did you go back out after a break?
0:40..pretty much
Took it like a champ💪
best youtube clip ever !
looks pretty brutal
This video actually reminds me of surfing more than any other video. lol
it looked like such a nice smooth ride what happened? did the break catch up and sweep you off?
gracias vuelvan pronto:-)
Wow! Amazing footage
I nearly broke my neck body surfing there many years ago. While I was sitting on the beach recuperating, some surfer dude was drifting into the rocks. Mexican marines in black uniforms watched from the beach and were laughing and I think were placing bets on him. His girlfriend swam out and dragged him back to the beach and saved his ass.
is puerto escondido of Oaxaca mexico????
that was savage bud, good job
That was heavy. You know what Turtle says, when da wave breaks hea, don't be dea
Now that's caught on the Inside,,,,Washcycle
Mate I'd be catching that white water straight in
Is that a HERO 4 Black Edition?
Definitely one. If those "this is not fun any more" moments.
It's so hard to come back to the lineup after being caught inside in Puerto Escondido. It's almost like Zicatela is telling you "get the FUCK out" lol. I was in that situation last week, terrifying shit.
Each time he dive under the wave, i hold my breath xD
zak el total different deal under tons of water turbulence than in your room
that was the most horrifying thing i've ever seen!
Yes, surfing UNDER water does present it's own unique challenges.
Come up for air a little more often and shut the camera off altogether. Thanks.
thats brutal.
That sucks. Same thing happened to me in Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica
I just went through a pummeling like this during a big swell at Guinones/Nosara. This ought to be an instructional video in how to survive a set worth of waves rolling over you: Don’t panic, Time your breathing, get your board, get out of the way. Note: yelling HOLY FUCK does not necessarily indicate panic! Just a level-headed assessment of the situation.
He kept doing the same mystake, In a spot like that you got be in the outside and never go in the first one. What a beating...i would have done the same thing and go back to the land.
That's terrifying
Yes indeed. “Holy fuck”
Yeah, that looks like a giant hassle
When you're caught on the inside it's like damn when are the swells going to stop at least for a minute and they just don't they keep on freaking coming
Surfing is fun
I want an autograph!!!!
Pretty much me on any given day.
The same guy of Maverick?
i'm going to learn how to surf down at Puerto Escondido. any tips?
equip aqua lungs