Company I worked for back in the 90's was a primarily an all Peterbilt and all Cummins powered when removing and installing the heads I made 2 handles made from old rocker box bolts took 4 bolts and welded them into a t-handle really helped when doing cylinder head work especially that rear head on that damn T-600 anteater KW we had and all the 362 cabovers we had
I wanted to tell you a big thanks for the link to the barrington site, it had the a-b-c sequencing chart that walked me right through running the overhead on my bcIV 400. that and your video made all this pretty easy.
Say there Mr. Grease, I also "was" a wrench, floor sweeper, grease monkey, tire buster, gear jammer. Forty + years, I am always intrigued to learn and enjoy learning from You. The Men who taught Me are all "gone", "passed on" by now. Sure is amazing how soon We grow older. Keep up the good work. What's Your story, who mentored You if I may ask. Thank You. Sincerely, Kathleen, & Me.
Kathleen NAWALT Well the man that I learned the most from was my shop foreman at the job I previously worked at before I went on my own. We worked for a fast growing agricultural company that had good people working for it that had worked there for 30 to 40 years. Tony (foreman) , could build and fabricate specialized harvesters , split tractors in two and completely rebuild a 15 speed transmission, or get a irrigation 4 wheeler running. I watched and learned and asked many questions the 10 years I worked there and learned alot. It laid the foundation for where I am currently. I really learned alot when I went on my own because I was hungry and wanted to succeed and when you screw up it is on your dime. And every day is another learning experience.
Note * over the years Cummins changed the materials they used in the manufacture and design of the head gasket. You shop manual might be older than the current type of gasket you have been supplied with. Check for install and torque spec for your gasket.
Always heard it was a bad idea to even run the head bolts down with impacts. If oil is in the bolt holes it can bust the block under the pressure of the bolt going in so fast. Never seen it happen in person but makes sense.
First & foremost I really enjoy & appreciate your time & effort! I had REALLY hoped you were going to show the rest of the reassembly install of the head including doing the crosshead adjustments. I have never seen it included in any videos? When I was checking mine I found quite a bit of excessive clearance? Then when I went to readjust them I found there wasn't a clear cut & dried measurement with a feeler gauge to check the adjustment you just performed? Mostly because of the engine design where the valve stem contacts the crossheads. I'd be very interested in your take on the importance of this part of the engine (actual adj). Cummins mentions it in its manual that it should be done Before valves are done. It seems that if the crossheads are out of adjustment it will affect every adjustment after that? I've seen in the manual a recommendation to do additional adjusting to compensate for new parts or worn parts & that there should be .025 clearance between valve spring retainer & crosshead which would be the underside of the crosshead I'm assuming.
@@westerntruckandtractorrepa1353 what about older NHC 250, I've got NHC 250 in a 5 ton military trucks and the inframe rebuild kit I bought, it didn't come with new bolts or a go no go gauge, engine only got 32,000 miles, reason why rebuilding is because sat like many military vehicles in the yard, and moisture has sat in cylinders, cylinders got rusty, everything else was fine, so I figured I just rebuild it.
@@staym925Cylinder pressure is lower in a 250. As long as the bolts aren’t corroded with pitting on the shank you’re good to go. When I’d be rebuilding I’d keep the painted bolts for positions that are external of the rocker box. Paint will flake off the bolt heads and end up going through the lube pump first. In my opinion and I worked for Cummins it was one of the cheapest most reliable engine they made. Same as the 220. If you needed an engine with more power, then that’s another story. You don’t need horsepower to climb a hill you need gears, time, and patience.
@georgerenton965 wow this was a while ago, I have since rebuilt that engine and drove the truck close to 5k since, yeah I didn't get answer from anyone, so I just went ahead and clean bolts up and reused. Yeah that truck don't need anymore power, it does the job, ive seen few and their putting 400 bc, 350bc, or putting turbo on, but I'm not trying to hotrod a 23,000lb 6x6 truck, I drive it and enjoy.
The biggest detrimental tool to ever be made is the buffing pad, the damage done to sealing surfaces with this tool is almost immeasurable, no OEM condones use of abrasives to clean sealing surfaces, just saying for those that don't know but see other's using them and think its the acceptable practice, no its just easy
I have big cam2 ntc300 with an external coolant leak coming from the rear head. Would the 300ft lb torque that you are doing apply to this engine as well?
Doing my first head gasket on 1987 Kenworth T600A the engine model is NTC 365 IV is that a small cam big crank or big cam asking to know which head gasket set to get and i was gonna do the thermostat and hoses as well but still need to take my heads to the machine shop and have them let me know what thickness gasket I need and if my heads still good can I just clean the heads myself and measure them with a straight edge and feeler gages ? Any help would be respected and appreciated!
Ok, these injectors are top stop? I am confused as I thought the type (like mine) with the springs visible were non top stop type? I ask as I dont want to set mine wrong? Thanks
You seem to be pretty handy with these old 855s I've watched a couple of your videos. I've got a 350 big cam 4 in an 89 international cabover. It's the high compression fleet engine (something like 17:1) when it gets warm the idle loaps up and down about 100 rpm. I did the clear line on the pump to make sure I wasn't getting air in the fuel. seemed to be alright. any ideas?
it is stc. I put all 6 reman injectors in it last year and ran all the valves. I had the fuel pump rebuilt a few weeks ago. ran the dual fuel line kit, and have replaced all the fuel lines, metal from pump to heads and all the rubber lines from the tank to pump.
Dakota Howard Any abnormal smoke when it starts idling rough? It sounds like the stc valve is not switching. Check the pickup tube coming from the oil pump to the oil pan, make sure the bolts are tight and aren't leaking from flanges because oil pump will suck air and make the stc system not work, also pop your valve covers off and start it and look at the stc oil manifolds inside that feed the injectors and make sure they are not leaking.
Alright. Thanks it only seems to loap when it gets warmed up. It loaps up and down for a minute and then will smooth out. The throttle seems a little sluggish at times too
Company I worked for back in the 90's was a primarily an all Peterbilt and all Cummins powered when removing and installing the heads I made 2 handles made from old rocker box bolts took 4 bolts and welded them into a t-handle really helped when doing cylinder head work especially that rear head on that damn T-600 anteater KW we had and all the 362 cabovers we had
Time to subscribe, I’m getting water pushing out my over flow tube maybe time for head gaskets.
I’ll be watching more of your videos. Thanks
I wanted to tell you a big thanks for the link to the barrington site, it had the a-b-c sequencing chart that walked me right through
running the overhead on my bcIV 400. that and your video made all this pretty easy.
Say there Mr. Grease, I also "was" a
wrench, floor sweeper, grease monkey,
tire buster, gear jammer. Forty + years,
I am always intrigued to learn and
enjoy learning from You. The Men who
taught Me are all "gone", "passed on"
by now. Sure is amazing how soon We
grow older. Keep up the good work.
What's Your story, who mentored You
if I may ask. Thank You.
Sincerely, Kathleen, & Me.
Kathleen NAWALT Well the man that I learned the most from was my shop foreman at the job I previously worked at before I went on my own. We worked for a fast growing agricultural company that had good people working for it that had worked there for 30 to 40 years. Tony (foreman) , could build and fabricate specialized harvesters , split tractors in two and completely rebuild a 15 speed transmission, or get a irrigation 4 wheeler running. I watched and learned and asked many questions the 10 years I worked there and learned alot. It laid the foundation for where I am currently. I really learned alot when I went on my own because I was hungry and wanted to succeed and when you screw up it is on your dime. And every day is another learning experience.
Note * over the years Cummins changed the materials they used in the manufacture and design of the head gasket. You shop manual might be
older than the current type of gasket you have been supplied with. Check for install and torque spec for your gasket.
Always heard it was a bad idea to even run the head bolts down with impacts. If oil is in the bolt holes it can bust the block under the pressure of the bolt going in so fast. Never seen it happen in person but makes sense.
Simple solution, blow the holes out before you start.
I love those old engine my small cam in my pete is like that my big play toy
First & foremost I really enjoy & appreciate your time & effort! I had REALLY hoped you were going to show the rest of the reassembly install of the head including doing the crosshead adjustments. I have never seen it included in any videos? When I was checking mine I found quite a bit of excessive clearance? Then when I went to readjust them I found there wasn't a clear cut & dried measurement with a feeler gauge to check the adjustment you just performed? Mostly because of the engine design where the valve stem contacts the crossheads. I'd be very interested in your take on the importance of this part of the engine (actual adj).
Cummins mentions it in its manual that it should be done Before valves are done. It seems that if the crossheads are out of adjustment it will affect every adjustment after that? I've seen in the manual a recommendation to do additional adjusting to compensate for new parts or worn parts & that there should be .025 clearance between valve spring retainer & crosshead which would be the underside of the crosshead I'm assuming.
What we used to do was to run the adjustment down until it made contact with the valve stem, then go just a little bit more.
Do you reuse your head bolts, check for stretch or get new ones! Great information by the way thanks
+Larry Mulalley Most of these new Cummins head gasket kits come with a go no go gauge that you measure them with. Thanks for watching.
@@westerntruckandtractorrepa1353 what about older NHC 250, I've got NHC 250 in a 5 ton military trucks and the inframe rebuild kit I bought, it didn't come with new bolts or a go no go gauge, engine only got 32,000 miles, reason why rebuilding is because sat like many military vehicles in the yard, and moisture has sat in cylinders, cylinders got rusty, everything else was fine, so I figured I just rebuild it.
@@staym925Cylinder pressure is lower in a 250. As long as the bolts aren’t corroded with pitting on the shank you’re good to go. When I’d
be rebuilding I’d keep the painted bolts for positions that are external of the rocker box. Paint will flake off the bolt heads and end up going
through the lube pump first. In my opinion and I worked for Cummins it was one of the cheapest most reliable engine they made. Same as the
220. If you needed an engine with more power, then that’s another story. You don’t need horsepower to climb a hill you need gears, time, and
patience.
@georgerenton965 wow this was a while ago, I have since rebuilt that engine and drove the truck close to 5k since, yeah I didn't get answer from anyone, so I just went ahead and clean bolts up and reused. Yeah that truck don't need anymore power, it does the job, ive seen few and their putting 400 bc, 350bc, or putting turbo on, but I'm not trying to hotrod a 23,000lb 6x6 truck, I drive it and enjoy.
The biggest detrimental tool to ever be made is the buffing pad, the damage done to sealing surfaces with this tool is almost immeasurable, no OEM condones use of abrasives to clean sealing surfaces, just saying for those that don't know but see other's using them and think its the acceptable practice, no its just easy
why are there exhaust valve crossheads for jake brakes installed over the intake valves ?
I have big cam2 ntc300 with an external coolant leak coming from the rear head. Would the 300ft lb torque that you are doing apply to this engine as well?
Need help.. need to know ALL the parts I need to buy for the replacement of this head. Does anyone know all the parts I may need to buy? Ty
Whats the name of the T type thing sitting in between a set of valves? I thing the tip of the rocker arms sit on them
yo e armado este motor asta con los ojos cerrado muy buen motor el cummins big cam
Amigo podrías aclarar unas dudas que tengo
Thanks for the info is this a NTC 365 IV big cam Cummins
Doing my first head gasket on 1987 Kenworth T600A the engine model is NTC 365 IV is that a small cam big crank or big cam asking to know which head gasket set to get and i was gonna do the thermostat and hoses as well but still need to take my heads to the machine shop and have them let me know what thickness gasket I need and if my heads still good can I just clean the heads myself and measure them with a straight edge and feeler gages ? Any help would be respected and appreciated!
What service manual is that? Does it cover an NT 855 Big Cam 350 IV?
NTE N 14 had some instructions that tight o moment, what i dont remember and then turn 90 Degrees.
Good
Even with a 2ft long wrench that would still be 150 lbf on the handle. Whew!
Adjusted. Injector. Press is 65
i have a 290 cummins that put diesel in my radiator today.
This guy is a chancer, after adjusting the valve clearance on the particular cylinder the injector must be torqued using a clock wrench to 48lbs ft.
Really? Some chancer, he’s still in business by the looks of things. Most self employed mechs won’t last when they’ve ruined an engine or two.
Ok, these injectors are top stop? I am confused as I thought the type (like mine) with the springs visible were non top stop type? I ask as I dont want to set mine wrong? Thanks
Max Williams the injectors in this video are nontopstop we always torqued them to 68inlb
thank you
Do you have this manual in PDF? If so, could you send it to me?
U got us confused you said the torque was 285lbs then you said 1000 ft lbs which is it?
what the diffence between 220 , 855?
The cubic inches ,most 220s were 749 cubic inches
u know what you are doing, but I'd like to know that torque spec on a 1995 n14 Cummings
+Mohamed Alladin 3 steps, first is 100 foot lbs. 2nd is 220 ft. Ibs. 3rd is + 90 degrees.
Those are non topstop injectors
Buy the way I have a 855 big cam III
It says 285 ft lbs that’s 385 neuton meters n.m so ya 285ft lbs is correct
NO WASHERS, DONT FUCKING USE WASHERS
You seem to be pretty handy with these old 855s I've watched a couple of your videos. I've got a 350 big cam 4 in an 89 international cabover. It's the high compression fleet engine (something like 17:1) when it gets warm the idle loaps up and down about 100 rpm. I did the clear line on the pump to make sure I wasn't getting air in the fuel. seemed to be alright. any ideas?
Dakota Howard Is that one stc or non stc.
it is stc. I put all 6 reman injectors in it last year and ran all the valves. I had the fuel pump rebuilt a few weeks ago. ran the dual fuel line kit, and have replaced all the fuel lines, metal from pump to heads and all the rubber lines from the tank to pump.
Dakota Howard Any abnormal smoke when it starts idling rough? It sounds like the stc valve is not switching. Check the pickup tube coming from the oil pump to the oil pan, make sure the bolts are tight and aren't leaking from flanges because oil pump will suck air and make the stc system not work, also pop your valve covers off and start it and look at the stc oil manifolds inside that feed the injectors and make sure they are not leaking.
Alright. Thanks it only seems to loap when it gets warmed up. It loaps up and down for a minute and then will smooth out. The throttle seems a little sluggish at times too
There is a little bit of white smoke when it idles rough
I'm replacing a head gasket on my 855. DO I NEED TO ADJUST/RESET INJECTORS OR VALVES?
or can I just replace everything as it was.
Chú ơi cho cháu xinh xố điện thoại đi chú
can u help me if wht is the best valve clearance of intake exhaust in nh250 cummins
where are you location
ratko manojlovic Oregon
If I had a bigger fishing boat that would be a great motor to have in her.
Did you see that SV Seeker has an NTC Cummins in her?
@@kevinhornbuckle yes I did see that isn't that a 6 BT Cummins in her
@@MrCrabbing I think you’re right. I was thinking of that couple in Australia who are rebuilding a trawler.
@@kevinhornbuckle That would be Bru Peg