ALL Aluminum Tapping Fixture for PERFECT Thread Cutting
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ย. 2024
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I decided to make a useful tool that I'll be using a lot in the future videos. It's a tapping fixture which helps me tap exactly perpendicular to the work piece and not mess the threads. Only drawback for now is that I can use only up to m6 tap, due to the small chuck that I used, but that's all I had. Also in my case I rarely need bigger than m6 taps. In the future I may install a bigger chuck for my bigger taps.
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in my time as a machinist I have broken more taps and drills in aluminum than steel. the idea of a jig of some sort is not a bad one. well done.
I would change only two things.
1. Lead in the base, at least 500g
2. A wheel instead of a bar at the top, a wheel offers far more better control over the tap, especially important for tiny under 3mm taps or, for bottoming taps.
Somehow I read that as "bottoming tacos" and I was so confused for a sec.
Good call on the wheel.
@@notanimposter *_you got something against bottoming tacos?_*
Shows himself power tapping holes with drill and lathe to build a manual hand tapping jig... I get it, its about the journey not the destination.
Well it's about using the tools you have to make a better tool
well how do you think the first tapping tool was made, better yet, th first piece of steel, if you dont have something of one material thats better than the material that you already have, then you gotta use the weaker material to form the stronger one, but slower, and what about motors, the first one was probably hand spooled instead of machine spooled. but yes, you could use other things to make something that may seem like what you could buy, but its uniqe becuase its made by you at pretty much no costs if you already have the materials for it.
He’s limited in taping size with the other tools and you can’t feel when the tap is going to break in harder materials when power tapping that’s why professional shops use internal threading boring bars you have more control that way.
hansdietrich83 I'm bilding a cnc mill using a drilpres - welder& grinder - small hobby lahte and some hand tools it's going to be realy sturdy I then use that macine to make parts for a lahte spindel so a can use my cnc mill as a Swiss style cnc lahte
sort of. when you have five hundred small parts like he is shown tapping in the end of the video, its about getting a higher number of parts finished. by hand with a drill and vice is slow and you will eventually trash parts by accident. this tool is pretty cool and you get a great deal of personal satisfaction from making something like this yourself by hand, but you can buy one at harbor freight too.....
so yes. making one of these is part journey part destination.
I have been using this idea for as long as I can remember. I feel like screaming if I see someone tapping a thread and the tap is leaning at an angle which makes a person seasick. You can make a fancy model like the one in the video or you can make it simple and effective. Take a piece of wood and drill a hole thru the size of the tap's shank. Add a spacer below the wooden block if necessary - happy tapping. It works like a charm. Use the same method when using your hand drill when you want to drill something.
I like the fixture for drilling the four holes in the bushing, I will be adopting that - thank you. Instead of a sliding bush for the tap guide, a threaded bush with the same pitch as the tapped thread will feed the tap perfectly into the work and deliver even better results, threads that are perfect from the surface of the job down.
Perhaps something to hold the workpiece would be good? I mean, you could just put a clamp at the bottom. But knowing you, you've probably got something more DIY in mind.
no, since the plunger is not square with the plate (see the wobble) the part has to move to follow the tap...
if clamped down could break a tap .. just my thought could be wrong ..
Some kind of rubber or silicone surface on the bottom would be nice so the work piece won't be moving!
Otherwise a great build!
It needs a dead flat surface for being truly perpendicular though, rubber deforms.
The pieces are all moving around eccentrically because its a Square Tap, in a 3 jaw chuck.
I think if the piece did not move that tiny bit he could break a tap .. also don't forget what does is small and he is zoomed in so it looks like a lot ..
That one left me wondering: why have you drilled a hole in the steel rod then hammered the chuck shaft into it instead of turning an outside thread on the rod then screw the chuck on? Would be much more stiff and with less chance of wobbling IMO.
You can see runout in the chuck when tapping the workpiece too.
to be able to run the chuck in reverse without having it come undone
@@fasousa4798 A set screw could fix that :)
If you're concerned with material waste, look into one of the secrets of woodwork: dust collection. Keep one bin for each alloy, and you'll be able to reform shaved metal. Another thing you can do is reduce solid waste by cutting the workpiece with a bandsaw or similar before milling it. That's less work for the mill bit too, so it should have a longer working life.
on the one we have, the top t bar is actually a spring that goes into another handle. this give you a more sensitive feel and lessens the chance of snapping a small tap.
What a brilliant tutorial without any words.
If your shaft to bushing fitment is good, you could machine a small 1/4" hex on the end of the tap handle, above the T handle. That way you can use a electric screw driver with a 1/4"bit holder to power tap without worrying about breaking a tap from wobble (but the bushing clearance must be less than 0.0005"
Try it and show us!!
This guy is smart enough to know not to use a 4 flute tap under 5/16. You can tell he's been doing this stuff for a while. Pretty good craftsman.
Looks perfect! The only thing i would change is the chuck. Collets are always more precise.
Cool! A very necessary thing for the modelers!
You lied to me you used some brass
And some steel...
Yeah, and it's right in the thumbnail... Fake news! Lol
OMGOMGOMG CLICKBAIT REEEEEEEEE
Beautiful workmanship, and as usual watching it come together is a joy, it's actually cathartic.
I have an old Cast Iron one that was my great uncles, extremely useful.
Magnificent. Can I suggest ethanol as a lubricant for machining aluminium?
Nicely done. Found myself shouting, "Coolant, coolant", when the cnc router was cutting the aluminum dry. Perhaps a grid of tapped holes in the base and some small goose-neck clamps to hold the work piece or a small toolmaker's vice would be a good evolution for this piece. Subscribed. Would love a small bench lathe for my own shop.
Nice to see the old 4 jaw chuck out on the lathe, not meany people understand the importance of those or how hard they can be to get accurate sometimes.
Great build, surely I make one of those for me. Any chance to get plans? Cheers
Excellent, I have wanted one of these for years. Great work. Thank you for sharing.
I gotta coupla comments:
1. The wobble in the chuck is not important because the workpiece is not clamped down. It follows the wobble of the tap. What matters is that the axis of the tap is parallel to the axis of the shaft and that they are both perpendicular to the base plate.
2. A useful addition would be holes on the base plate and matching pins. The friction of the tap rotates the workpiece until it bumps against the pin, so you don't have to hold it in place while tapping.
3. I used to have a commercial version of this tool, and it was one of the best things I ever bought - along with an optical centerpunch.
All that work for a simple threader,great!!
Thats gonna come crazy in handy
Nice work. Always fun to watch. I'd buy one.
Nice tool. I want this badly.
Beautiful. That's made me want to go tap something right now.
I'd add a grid of holes, m4 or m6 to the base so you can use them as stops in case you need a little extra leverage
Very nice design. I replicated it with a few changes although the end result doesn't look as clean as your. I am almost complete but I am having some trouble attaching the chuck to the steel rod. I am assuming this is a 1/4 inch hex on your chuck screw. What is the hole diameter you drilled the rod in order to use the hex driver as a 'punch' to fixate it in the rod? I guess another way would be to thread the rod like the hex driver on the chuck but in my case it measures 6.2mm which is neither 6mm nor 1/4 inch.
This guy deservs a mill
i like the idea behind the project!
tipp:
you could press the brass pice into the aluminium top. this would save you a lot of time (or use a sliding bushing)
Well done Johnny!
9:50 the jogging of the part is because off axis tapping. You can just add 0.2mm error to all those holes, not to mention when you screw on the bolts the gripping power is greatly diminished or threads destroyed with torque. Keeping true to the axis true is the real challenge. You need short tools for that or japanese-presision self-centering chucks
Beautiful work with beautiful tools...
Too bad that chuck has a massive run out. Nice piece of equipment though, I went the lazy way myself taping with the power drill lately.
What's with the wobble? Other than that it came out great
my guess is the small tap chuck is designed for using by hand so not necessarily made precise, there is no register for the tap chuck to screw upto either like you would see on a lathe spindle behind the thread, the thread holds the chuck and the register makes the chuck held level on spindle axis, the tap chuck is just held by the thread
tbh that jig I can see is amazing for tapping tiny thin holes, ( for me M4 or less ) to help tap with less chance of snapping, not much torque needed so I would just use a small threaded jacobs chuck and turn a thread plus register on the bar, then hold the tap my its round shank bit that is major over engineering ;)
Yes that small black chuck is not straight.
So much effort for the precision to be lost by that wobble. Hope it's the tap and not the chuck. Excellent build though!
@@apostolisioannou4073 Obviously he is not really making this for using,but showing the whole process. Which is very pleasing to watch. But yes, all this effort is gone to trash with cheap Chinese chuck. I've had one I know it's not worth.
You could add tapped holes to the base to be able to hold parts down like on the cnc router .
Very nice idea. Good work
Outstanding creation..
Really intelligent idea
The Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD)coating application process on TiN, TiCN, TiAIN, and AlTiN tools makes them unsuitable for an aluminum application, it will stick in high speed.
Nice work with a nice set of tools/tooling to hand!
Gloves while operating a drill press? Dangerous. Also, did you check the angle? Aluminium stock is not the straightest thing on earth.
I am guessing the brass was getting rather hot whilst being drilled! Yeah, he should have clamped it in a vice and kept the gloves away.
Yup, I knew I would see a comment like this one
Friend of mine lost a finger by doing that. Never wear gloves!
Must. Hold. Sarcasm. Back. Excruciating!!
I knew I couldn't be the only one thinking that!
Very nice build!
It looks like a good tool
Yet again another cool video. Awsome work man
Taps run true after a couple of turns anyway , the drilled hole is the most important .
pfft hand powered? Nitro it man! nice work
G Andersson with steam engine
I have similar idea but instead of making that C-shape frame, I just use the milling machine / drill press to serve the same purpose.
Nice jig. Thanks for the video.
Nice video and nice workshop.
Thanks for yet another great video
Beautiful looks like clickspring material
What countersink is that? Looks like it works well without being overly aggressive. A cutting fluid that helps, I've found, with especially drilling/tapping/reaming brass and bronze is Windex believe it or not.
Looks great. When you threaded the 90 degree joint on the aluminum pieces, did you make sure to drill out the threads in the narrower piece? It may loosen up if both are threaded.
Nice idea.. what are the mills you use for cutting aluminum and braas ? And what is the speed and feed rates and the cutting depth ? Does is work ok with the dewalt without cooling? I see that some times you used oil but mostly withou any cooling! Is that right?
Nice job man
On the milling and painting of the font. I would have masked it off with masking tape then milled and painted it.
with the nature of working with low viscous paint and masking tape, sanding still be needed, but much less of it.
3 questions.
what CNC do you have?
Is it easy to use?
What are some of the downsides of it?
Simply Awesome!
Someone needs to make one for my because this is awesome!!!
omg. I love your channel so much.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Very nice.
Great job ,I really like your design ,looks really good ,I think I need to make one of those, thanks for sharing
Nice Job!
I cut a slot in the base of mine and made a tall base so I can tap the sides of sheets etc
2:40 nice workholding bro :D
Genius as allways !
You should consider buying a little pump for cutting oil !
WD-40 spray for Aluminum is fine :-)
Hey johnny! Love the video! Whats the worst injury youve gotten while working on one of your projects?
Based on the router in the first few seconds I gather you use an x-Carve? What endmills/speeds do you use when cutting aluminum? I've been having some success, but a lot of issues with overheating, melting, drifting, etc.
I got M6- M12 taps with a m6 sise shank and square from the volkel brand I got them at a HBM shop it's a hand tap set so perfect for small stuff prity good price M3-M10 is ~ 6€ for a 3 part set
Seems cool but is it really necessary if you already have a drill press?
Nice and heavy job! But this bulky stand definitely should be disassemblable.
Do you throw away the waste or reuse it?
Nice work.
Nice job. Would you be able to attach a stepper motor onto that rig to allow for it to become a power tap as well.
Nice job 👍🏼
认真好的金工技术! 什么零件都可以造出来! 值得赞!
just made one few months ago ..looks jus like yours except I used extruded aluminum channel .
Nicely done! Thanks for the pleasant to watch video. :)
You should motorize it and use a foot peddle for forward and reverse so you can use both hands to hold the piece...
Awesome idea. Thanks for sharing.
That was awesome.
Ha Ha Ha !!! You used some parts of steel, bras, and rubber !!! Nice Job !! ( as always )
I saw Brass being used but I didnt see any bras lol
That had patent written all over it. Hope you took advantage of that. I want one but, surely could not afford.
ты же прекрасно резал резьбу шуруповертом)))
Ohhh man this is so nice! 😍👍
Good work!! CNC Brand?
Good work but.. I think this project is an example of over engineering xD how to do something that is easy, difficult... but yes is nice
It's not overengineered, it's just made to be precise. This stand would make tapping much cleaner than using hand tapping or drill tapping
All that precision... then lett8ng it all go to waste by using a crappy, wobbly little chuck.. enjoyed it up to that point.
we can use it as a mini hand driller if we fix a 12 v 775 motor...
Thats cool. Nice job..!
Maybe u can try your own aluminium piston? That would be great!
Would have been great if the Chuck in the jig and Tap were centered..
I would probably put a decent chuck on it if I spent that much on material. Anyway nice build.
Excellent workmanship and nice end product as always. However, the ubiquitous modified drill stand tapping fixture would be easier to make and is far more versatile. If you wanted to be posh (in machinist terms), a universal pillar tool would be the ultimate in tapping fixtures. The current project is very limited in comparison to both.
Can you make a turbocharger for an RC car engine? It’d blow my mind and I’d love to hear how it sounds
awesome tool men love it still having a mill i will make one so awesome ^^
What kind of lathe are you using? Great build!
my OCD people where you at? 9:38 wibbly wobbly. nice video though