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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
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Fatliquoring refers to using an emulsion of oil in water to coat the internal skin fibers with oils so they will be more soft and flexible. Fatliquors can be easily made with egg yolks or brains and oil. They provide fast and even penetration of oils into the fiber of the skin in a way that simply rubbing oil onto leather does not. Fatliquors are an essential tool in making very soft leathers.
Tanning Videos Playlist: • Tanning and Leather, S...
Instructions unclear. What type of lunch meat do i use after my hide is slathered in mayo?
I would love to watch a video on leather care from you like cleaning, conditioning, protecting it with some sort of natural wax like beeswax or lanolin. Also, a leather dyeing video from the homestead would be awesome. Thank you for all your wonderful videos, new subscriber.
thanks and welcome. I do have one planned sometime on restoring old leathers, from a tanners perspective.
did you ever consider doing a video on which conditioners and dressings to use for maintaining leather? I have tried to learn about it, but everytime I dig into something on the internet there seems to be a world of confusions out there, e.g. some say not to use neats foot oil, but mink oil, others say both are fine, and there we have you saying that olive oil is fine to use ;) It seems to me what is missing out there is context - are we talking keeping the leather functional and flexible or is it more a matter of looks? Could be interesting to hear you take on this - I am sure you have something to offer with your experience and knowledge
A little. I'm no expert on the subject, but I'm wary of any experts on any subject lol. I also don't buy anything.
Mustard is an extremely powerful emulsifier, no idea whether it would work in tanning.
Thanks, I didn't know that. I wonder why.
maybe the essential oils...
Common soap or soap flakes will do the same as egg yolks. It in its self has a softening effect in leather fat liquoring
Soap is real popular with Native tanners in the North. I don't recall using it much. I always use brains or egg yolks.
Research is sketchy, since tanning is a somewhat guarded process, trade secrets and such, but I've read one an internet article somewhere that a small amount of saddle soap helps improve the delivery and penetration of the fat liquor into the hide. My tanning experience is next to nothing, though, so take this with a grain if salt. Might be worth an experiment or something
I would imagine that it is an emulsion. I've never used it, but if it cleans and conditions, it's probably a fat with an emulsifier like a soap. soap and fat can be used as a lubricant for fatliqouring. Soap tanning is popular with canadian indians making the equivalent of braintan moose hides.
I have a deerskin(relatively thin) finishing off in a tanning solution. I’d like it to be a good stiffness, able to be tooled, etc. What would you recommend for that? Should the egg yolk/oil process be enough to achieve that? If not I do have some really hard deer tallow. If I used tallow would I dilute it in water with oil as well?
Typically deer skin doesn't want to be that kind of leather, but I'll tell you how I would make it. melt together about 50/50 deer tallow and a light oil, like olive or vegetable oil. after rinsing the skin well, scud it one last time to get excess water out. Lay the skin flesh side up and use a spatula or some straight metal edge to stretch it out in all directions to open and flatten it. Don't over saturate. Apply a thin coat warm to the flesh side, and lay the skin flesh side down on a smooth surface, like smooth plywood or a smooth table etc.. put a light coat on the grain side. Use a smooth edged slicker tool, (make one from wood if you have to, watch the tanning tools vid), to stretch and flatten the skin until it is as much as possible stuck to the board and flat. Leave the surface as perfectly smooth as possible and don't touch it until it's dry. Dry slowly, but not so slowly that it molds. Should be dry within 36 to 48 hours. Tooling leather would generally be compressed further while slightly damp. Cattle skin is much more suited to making tooling leather. It's just the nature of different skins. Of course I'm talking about our N. American deer skins, so if you are elsewhere your mileage may vary.
SkillCult thanks! Not a bid deal if it can’t be tooled- the stiffness is also what I’m after
In my opinion, I would not recommend eggs yolks. I used it for condition of a cow hair on leather, and six months later, it has a rotten smell. I prefer use corn oil or foot's oil. Thanks for your video man! Regards!
+Tadeo Lucero - Thanks for commenting. I wonder why that happened. I've used egg yolks for years to do braintan and barktan without any smell issues. The hides smell like leather, or like smoke for braintan. I only use the yolks in a diluted state, with a lot of water though, probably no more than about 12 yolks in 3 gallons of water. I think most of the egg washes out, but leaves the fatty acids from the yolks and the emulsified oil in the skin fiber.
+SkillCult I doesnt mentioned that the leather was made with alum method. Maybe that is the reason! Sorry for my bad english, but the realitty is that the leather has rancid smell, not rotten, which is different. Thanks for your answer!
Do you remove the grain after removing the hair for bark tanning like you do for brain tanning?
Nice job, very informative video, I have a friend Nick at whitetailbushcraft who showed us tanning using mayo, nice freezer tip too for the eggs, most people don't know they can freeze them.
+Bushcraft Girl Karen I should have emphasized that the yolks themselves have a lot of oils and can be used alone same as braintanning. I think the extra oil was always used in western tanning traditions though, probably sometimes with more oil than egg. I come from a braintanning background, so I lean heavily on the eggs, but you don't need much to emulsify a lot of oil.
Hello sir
Can you help me with a tip to soften a very stiff vegetable tanned leather, after tannin, framing and stretching when it dries it became very stiff (like paper).
It may not be tanned all the way through. That is usually what happens when people are learning. It is colored on the outside, but not tanned all the way through, so the interior is basically rawhide. If well tanned, it may be somewhat stiff when dry, but still leather-like. Did you cut it open to see if the tan color goes all the way through the leather? Occasionally, even if the color goes through, it will still not be tanned well, because there can be other coloring agents in the material that stain the skin.
@@SkillCult okay, that might be the reason because i only soaked it for a month, even though i normally recharged the tanning solution with more tannin. So is there any remedy available?
@@abismalcj1164 a month is plenty long for some hides. what kind of skin is it? changing or strengthening the solution is good, but the added stuff has to be strong enough. But now you will have some idea of what is not enough. If you havent oiled it, you can put it back. Otherwise, try soaking it in a solution of a dozen egg yolks and drying them in a couple of times, then take it when damp and pull and buff it until it is dry. that might work for thin skins, but not thick ones like cattle or horse.
@@SkillCult it's a sheep skin,and i haven't oil it at all. Might this also be the reason why its stiff.
Thank you for the reply
@@abismalcj1164 If it is crispy stiff, it probably isn't tanned. soak it up and put it ina very strong solution. If you move it frequently it will tan fast.
Hey Steven, I just skinned a sheep and salted it immediately. Should I leave the salt on for a few weeks before working it? Keep seeing that if it is salted it should remain for a few weeks. Is it not advised to work a salted hide only a few days after salting? Wanting to bark tan with wool on. It still has some meet and flesh so figure I will wash it and scrape it and then frame it and stretch and wondering if I should fat liqour it before putting in bark tan solution or after. THinking it is after but just wanted to check in.
Definitely fat liquor after it's tanned. I would not have salted it at all if you could start it right away. otherwise, all it really does is preserve the skin until you tan it, so I think you could start whenever. I don't see any reason to wait that I know of. The bark should help set the hair, so you can wash it thoroughly to get all the salt out before tanning and maybe shampoo the hair. The bark will likely dye the hair somewhat. Make sure you flesh well and try to get as much of the fat out of the skin as you can before tanning. some handfuls of cornmeal or sawdust on the flesh side can help absorb fat if it's really greasy. I haven't dealt with sheepskin very much.
There are plenty of refernces to extra tallow being added to brains when tanning hides, especially bison.
I came across some of those references in king and other sources when I was researching the buckskin book.
have 3 deer skins and heads, in my freezer, its time i do something with them,
+hobbexp Maybe... Just remember there will be more though!
Finally got it! YES! Thanks for the conversation part of this vid, explaining the chemistry part of why brains or eggs work the way they do on hides. I've been learning as I go, first on a few roadkill hides and then just preserving a couple of birds of prey found dead (to be turned over to a university). Now I've started trapping muskrats, and I just got the whole thing right for the first time! Tanned in a salt-heavy solution based on oak galls; then eggs, flax oil, and water overnight, wetted and massaged in, and finally I washed that off and worked it while drying.
Soft muskrat hide, at last! Ready to make my daughter some mittens. Hurrah!
Cool, glad to hear it! Tanning can be very satisfying.
You can probably skip the salt. Either way, you want all the salt washed out by the time it's done. The tannin should preserve it and set the hair as long as it doesn't get too weak for too long at some point..
@@SkillCult Great, thanks for the comment on salt. I'm paranoid about slippage, that's why I was looking for more anti-bacterial effect. Just went out and found another handful of good galls, and I have some oak sawdust as well. I'll revisit your videos on tannins before I work on my next hide, make sure I have a good strong batch to soak in. There are other ways to get them preserved, but I love the smell of tannin-treated leather. Thank goodness for muskrats--plentiful and sample-size, lol. Thank you for all the videos!
Will Fat or can liquoring leather make it waterproof? I met a guy that had made very water proof leather from using sheep fat. I didn't get a chance to fully ask him about the process. I've not been able to find any how-to info online. I would like to do so before trying to tan very waterproof leather. Any Ideas?
Not fatliquoring for sure. It's about getting smaller amounts of oil deep into the skin. Short of saturating the skin with oil, which is not always what you want, I'm not sure about waterproofing. I"ll keep my eye peeled in the old literature for stuff about that.
Thank you, The Guy said that he needed the leather with his feet in a vat of sheep fat for at least the best part of a day. I think the method comes from Norway. The leather looked amazing as it glistened with fat. I have been put off having a go without more info on the process. I guess I will just have to experiment and see what I come up with. Maybe it's as simple as how he described. I like what you say about combining old and new skills and just having a go. I will let you know how I get on with it.
Then when it gets hot the fat will probably come to the surface and leave deposits. I've had that with experiments I did with very fat saturated leather.