Exactly what I’ve been looking for since I started installing postmaster+ posts 2 years ago. Finally I can sleep sound at night. You guys are great. From Canada we appreciate!
Yeah, I decided to use these and after I got everything together, I noticed it had some wobble in it. I thought I had made a serious mistake not going traditional, but it’s been 3 years with a few 80+ mph gusts storms and it’s still plumb. All I’m worried about now is it rusting out. When installing, I painted the portion in the ground with rustoleum. I suppose nothing lasts forever, but hopefully longer than me lol.
That’s what we use too Sometimes schedule 20. The wind and snow loads here… I know Wyoming has wind and snow…. But northern AZ and the Rockies get it big time
When we moved from the farm to a small town in 1977, my dad built a fence around our yard out of rough cut lumber from the local Amish sawmill. I don't remember if we cemented the posts or not, but I do remember helping apply an oil type treatment on them before they went into the ground. The above ground posts and fence pickets got treated with the oil too, but maybe after the 1st season. Probably a turpentine, old engine oil & some other stuff, typical for farmers of that era. Then every sever years was retreated with the oil mix. The wood variety was a hard wood since I remember helping to pilot drill all the lag bolts and nail holes. I'm thinking the pickets were 3/4 " .
I have always used 4x4 wood posts in the past cemented in place. I need to replace a couple of sections of a fence this summer. Rather than using cement or foam, I'm thinking of lining the new holes with heavy-duty weed cloth, placing the posts on a 1/4-10 gravel base (no fines) and then filling the hole with round river rock. Once full, I would wrap the weed cloth over the top of the rocks. My thinking is that the rock would fill the space very tightly and provide excellent lateral stability and superior drainage. Any changes in the soil would simply allow the rocks to settle, maintaining a tight lateral support. The weed cloth would prevent soil eventually filling the spaces between the rocks. Rot in PT wood occurs when soil is in direct contact with the wood, and since there is no soil contact, the posts should last for a very long time, especially if coated with a tar emulsion. I would also place a plastic sleave at ground level to prevent any soil contact from backfill or accumulation. I'm not worried about vertical "negative gravity" because I just don't see fences failing that way. So, would this approach make any sense?
Have you guys looked at the Lifetime Steel Post brand? I cant get postmasters here without extreme shipping costs and the Lifetime steel post brand seems like the next best thing available from big box stores here.
now, would you still recommend using the postmaster steel post without concrete when installing in a southern location. I'm in southern MS where we get hurricanes, high humidity levels, the ground stays fairly moist, etc.. my assumption is it's better to concrete them in my area.. i do plan to use these steel posts though.
I live in South Florida, all sand under 3 inches of sod. Digging more than 2 feet (some places even less) and the hole fills with water. Plus, city requires all posts to be set in concrete.
Another sweet video !!!! I always enjoy y'alls video very enlightening . You all need to build a fence through a pond or swap to show how it can be done. These post would work great. As always thank you for a job well done👍
I want to see how you move the airboat around and keep it from sailing away when on the trailer! If it was me I would be using a Bobcat and hitch adapter.
@@SWiFence I live in Florida and thinking the best privacy fence design for high winds is Shadowbox fencing. I am interested in using the Postmaster steel posts but cant find any DIY videos for that construction. Do you think Shadowbox is the way to go? Strength and longevity is what I am looking for.
Shadowbox fencing doesn't really hold up well in strong winds, just a heads up. Unfortunately, we don't have a video available for the shadow box style just yet. But if you're interested in those postmaster posts, our sister company over in St. Augustine could definitely help you with that. swiflorida.com/ (904) 502-4361
Would like to retest after fixing the metal post. Sure metal will flex but a bend is the material yielding. Bending back would reduce the strength and subsequent fixing adds flex fatigue. Really like the product tho!
What’s the gauge thickness of that metal post ? Also what’s your thoughts on 18 & 16 gauge metal square posts .., it’s a 2x2x8’ 18,16 and 14 gauge is that a good thickness to use for a fence post with a 5 to 6 feet apart
Ok so I really want to go back to pounding, but where I am located in oregon the ground is clay for 16in then goes to a hardpan. Like rock can you pound the postmaster through the hardpan.
We are bending them so very little that it is not affecting the strength. Much like when you repeatedly bend any other metal, you can create weak spots, but this is typically achieved after you have kinked them in which case we would try and salvage them. Something that has only been bent a slight amount is not being substantially weakened in any way.
Is there an attachment for my titan post driver that will work with these postmaster posts or do I need a whole new driver or is there an aftermarket product thats made by a third party or am I really gonna need to create something on my own?🤷🏻♂️
I know it’s a bit dated, but here 4x4x8’s are $11, 16ga 2 3/8” 8’ round posts are $27, & these postmaster posts in 8’ are about $80. Makes quite a difference in overall cost, but guess it’s what you want in the end. I like the round posts kinda middle ground cost with all the benefits of metal in the ground over wood.
You guys keep talking about driving your posts. But I hit a sheet of rock in less than a foot. I live in Fort Worth, Texas and it is just awful here. There is not hope that the rocks will just move or break with the force of pounding and driving the post in. Any recommendations. I am about to fix a double gate that is a whole other problem. One gate is hung by a single post and the other opens up hill. Yay for home ownership and DIY.
Would it be possible to install 2 of the engineered posts face to face ][.... Even if you did it one at a time and then bolted them together.... Seems like that would withstand anything...
Hey SWI, Looking to get a fence done and because of the length of fence (475 linear feet potentially) and the ease of Postmaster posts, I’m thinking of doing DIY and rented tools. I’m here in Kansas and worried about 1. How easily these are to DIY and 2. How well it’ll stand up to the mean Kansas wind
You got this. 💪🏻 1. Every DIY is different in their skill level, but we feel good about encouraging you to get it done. 2. I mean, I doubt it's worse than the hurricane winds we just tested in the video. Seriously, if you go deep enough you'll be fine. This is our method of choice in Wyoming and we have nothing but wind up here.
We live in Oklahoma and have red clay. The clay tears up roads and house foundations regularly. How do the posts work and hold in clay? And we have incredibly crazy wind.
The airboat was an appropriate choice for testing. I wish more people would use this laid back approach in evaluating. In the future when testing fire treated products, then please consider a F1 Fighter Jet...😮
Here's a simple test with different posts, same exact principle. You can repeat this in your area to see what's what. th-cam.com/video/mc92svvCRFo/w-d-xo.html
Mark explains: "Many people don't realize just how windy it is in Wyoming and I brought all that knowledge about wind with me to Florida...." Hmmmm. And look how windy it is in Florida now. Notice how calm it is when Dan speaks. Merely an observation.
What a great type of post system. (but... I have a question) I have an oopsie story. Over here in Tampa Bay, I decided to install a Patio Cover on my 54 year old house. I dug and placed two 8" concrete tubes with no issue. The third, I was digging at sundown, and encountered some funky broken cinder blocks as I was digging. I thought it a bit weird, but kept going. Finally, I came across some highly resistive stone going at an angle. Pulled out my digging bar and demolished it. When I dug it out, much to my surprise, it looked like clay tile... I had my wife flush the toilet on that side of the house, and... yeah. Anyway, after a whole lot of digging and a 2' PVC & a couple Clay-to-PVC Ferncos later, I'm back up and running. I highly doubt ANYONE would have expected a sewer pipe going diagonally from one end of the house to the main line coming out straight. So my question is, have you ever encountered a strangely placed one-in-a-million pipe of any sort in your past and had an 'oopsie'? This one defied all logic. Thanks!
Two years ago I ran an auger through an unmarked 6" irrigation line. It was fed by a full retention pond, so we had to let the whole pond drain just to fix it. 🤦♂️
Why not use the round tubing posts if that's what's proven itself for cantilever strength and durability? Why use the Postmaster channel shape? An engineer would tell you the optimal post is an I-beam shape, not tubing or channel.
The simplest reason is because there is no way to hide the unsightly post with a typical round chain-link fence post. There is a balance between strength and aesthetics going on here.
@@SWiFence we need some fence builders like you guys here people around my town are sloppy and cut to many corners and then try and charge $$$$ for janky work !
Have you ever tried using the "Fence King Tac Welded Double PostMaster+ Posts" ? I've never seen anyone else use this product. Website description: "Fence King tac welds two PostMaster+ posts together for the most durable installation. These reinforced posts can be installed exposed or concealed with wood pickets. Posts installed in this method can withstand Category 2 hurricane-force winds of 115mph."
This method was actually developed by Master Halco, the makers of Postmaster. We've used it on rare occasions. In most applications, if you're using a dried cedar product, the gates typically aren't heavy enough to necessitate using that method.
Depends on a person's situation. Over half that cost is freight. Wish we could drop ship them but we can't. That means we're paying freight two directions.
@@SWiFence I am in agreement with @mitchyounger3565. $120 per post vs $25 for the wood post is exorbitant -- if you have to replace the fence in 10 years with wood posts maybe there is a new material available then, but 20 posts set 6' oc for a length of 120' of fence - wood posts @ $500, steel posts @ $2400... Too expensive. There is a competing product called "Lifetime posts" that are much the same with a fraction of the cost ($40/post) , and you can get them at Lowes or HomeDepot. Question is will the Rhino Post Pounder work with those.
I found postmasters locally for $33. Total cost per 4x4 installed would be $29.52. PT 4x4 $14 2x bags concrete $12 4x Simpson fence brackets $3.52 An extra $3.50 per post was well worth it for greatly increased longevity and way easier installation.
Gentlemens you have me a bit wary of the results, on this one… I understand you have diplomas from Fence Erection University. You used a genuine alligator chasing air boat. And, that you used digital Any-mometers. But, are y’all certified Fence Demolitionists? I mean, I’ve watched thousands of product advertisements over the years. And they all have a genuine doctor as their spokesperson! You can tell he/she is a doctor because of the smock and stethoscope they are wearing… Y’all showed up for the first test in lab coats… I never doubted your qualifications. However after seeing that you’uns didn’t even bother to do it for the last few videos…. You have me wondering! Were you only qualified to test homeowner grade installations? Or is it just… the lab coats were still in the laundry? Please advise so I can relax an have a good danged day. PS: I have a stethoscope that I use to listen for engine rattles on my old Farmall… I can loan it to you for your next video. That’ll help dispel some of the doubt that this wardrobe malfunction has caused.
How in the world can you compare the way you installed the wood posts. Do it right. Wet pour and let it dry , come back the next day and test. You guys doing dry pack doesn't work in extreme situations like this wind. In houston we have hurricanes every year stronger than this test. Dry pour is ok but not the best.
Exactly what I’ve been looking for since I started installing postmaster+ posts 2 years ago. Finally I can sleep sound at night. You guys are great. From Canada we appreciate!
Yeah, I decided to use these and after I got everything together, I noticed it had some wobble in it. I thought I had made a serious mistake not going traditional, but it’s been 3 years with a few 80+ mph gusts storms and it’s still plumb. All I’m worried about now is it rusting out. When installing, I painted the portion in the ground with rustoleum. I suppose nothing lasts forever, but hopefully longer than me lol.
Great video. Would love to see how driven 2.5" round schedule 40 would hold up. This is what we use in Louisiana
That’s what we use too
Sometimes schedule 20.
The wind and snow loads here…
I know Wyoming has wind and snow…. But northern AZ and the Rockies get it big time
We use sch 40 if the customer specifically requests them. Otherwise we use the postmaster. We love them.
When we moved from the farm to a small town in 1977, my dad built a fence around our yard out of rough cut lumber from the local Amish sawmill. I don't remember if we cemented the posts or not, but I do remember helping apply an oil type treatment on them before they went into the ground. The above ground posts and fence pickets got treated with the oil too, but maybe after the 1st season. Probably a turpentine, old engine oil & some other stuff, typical for farmers of that era. Then every sever years was retreated with the oil mix.
The wood variety was a hard wood since I remember helping to pilot drill all the lag bolts and nail holes. I'm thinking the pickets were 3/4 " .
I have always used 4x4 wood posts in the past cemented in place. I need to replace a couple of sections of a fence this summer. Rather than using cement or foam, I'm thinking of lining the new holes with heavy-duty weed cloth, placing the posts on a 1/4-10 gravel base (no fines) and then filling the hole with round river rock. Once full, I would wrap the weed cloth over the top of the rocks. My thinking is that the rock would fill the space very tightly and provide excellent lateral stability and superior drainage. Any changes in the soil would simply allow the rocks to settle, maintaining a tight lateral support. The weed cloth would prevent soil eventually filling the spaces between the rocks. Rot in PT wood occurs when soil is in direct contact with the wood, and since there is no soil contact, the posts should last for a very long time, especially if coated with a tar emulsion. I would also place a plastic sleave at ground level to prevent any soil contact from backfill or accumulation. I'm not worried about vertical "negative gravity" because I just don't see fences failing that way. So, would this approach make any sense?
It is so hard to start a project and to tell yourself that you won't use any cement. But you make me wanna forget about it this is crazy !
If 120mph winds hit my place my house is gone... not worried about my fence. "Got no place to live but my dog ain't getting out. "
You're a genius! Build a house with engineered steel posts!!
Impressive. Most impressive.
Thanks!
Have you guys looked at the Lifetime Steel Post brand? I cant get postmasters here without extreme shipping costs and the Lifetime steel post brand seems like the next best thing available from big box stores here.
now, would you still recommend using the postmaster steel post without concrete when installing in a southern location. I'm in southern MS where we get hurricanes, high humidity levels, the ground stays fairly moist, etc.. my assumption is it's better to concrete them in my area.. i do plan to use these steel posts though.
These tests were done in Florida sand. As long as you're going to appropriate depth and the soil allows for it in your area you can drive.
awesome. thanks. @@SWiFence
I live in South Florida, all sand under 3 inches of sod. Digging more than 2 feet (some places even less) and the hole fills with water. Plus, city requires all posts to be set in concrete.
Another sweet video !!!! I always enjoy y'alls video very enlightening . You all need to build a fence through a pond or swap to show how it can be done. These post would work great. As always thank you for a job well done👍
Are these posts identical to a Stop Sign post?
If the Postmaster posts bend and you bend them back, will the zinc plating crack at the bend, allowing corrosion to begin to set in?
We have not seen any coating cracks on any coated steel postmasters or pipe even when nearly kinked.
I want to see how you move the airboat around and keep it from sailing away when on the trailer! If it was me I would be using a Bobcat and hitch adapter.
If it was you, you would be doing it correctly. That's exactly what we used.
Hey, the fence had 3/4' air gaps between the horizontal boards where the other fences had none. That makes a huge difference in wind load.
Not like you'd think.
@@SWiFence I live in Florida and thinking the best privacy fence design for high winds is Shadowbox fencing. I am interested in using the Postmaster steel posts but cant find any DIY videos for that construction. Do you think Shadowbox is the way to go? Strength and longevity is what I am looking for.
Shadowbox fencing doesn't really hold up well in strong winds, just a heads up. Unfortunately, we don't have a video available for the shadow box style just yet. But if you're interested in those postmaster posts, our sister company over in St. Augustine could definitely help you with that.
swiflorida.com/
(904) 502-4361
Would like to retest after fixing the metal post. Sure metal will flex but a bend is the material yielding. Bending back would reduce the strength and subsequent fixing adds flex fatigue. Really like the product tho!
Agreed. I would like to see this same test with a span of 4x4 post fencing bolted to concrete using the simpson ez post bases as well
What’s the gauge thickness of that metal post ?
Also what’s your thoughts on 18 & 16 gauge metal square posts .., it’s a 2x2x8’ 18,16 and 14 gauge is that a good thickness to use for a fence post with a 5 to 6 feet apart
Ok so I really want to go back to pounding, but where I am located in oregon the ground is clay for 16in then goes to a hardpan. Like rock can you pound the postmaster through the hardpan.
When you bend the post back after, probably an unusual wind event, does it substantially weaken the post?
We are bending them so very little that it is not affecting the strength. Much like when you repeatedly bend any other metal, you can create weak spots, but this is typically achieved after you have kinked them in which case we would try and salvage them. Something that has only been bent a slight amount is not being substantially weakened in any way.
Is there an attachment for my titan post driver that will work with these postmaster posts or do I need a whole new driver or is there an aftermarket product thats made by a third party or am I really gonna need to create something on my own?🤷🏻♂️
Would a product like fle. Steel or similar sprayed on the metal post extend the post life?
What's the difference in price with metal vs 4x4's. I'm actually getting ready to build a privacy fence.
I know it’s a bit dated, but here 4x4x8’s are $11, 16ga 2 3/8” 8’ round posts are $27, & these postmaster posts in 8’ are about $80. Makes quite a difference in overall cost, but guess it’s what you want in the end. I like the round posts kinda middle ground cost with all the benefits of metal in the ground over wood.
Is it safe to assume that “pressure treated pine fence” are 5/4 deck boards? That’s what they look like, but can’t really tell in the vid
You guys keep talking about driving your posts. But I hit a sheet of rock in less than a foot. I live in Fort Worth, Texas and it is just awful here. There is not hope that the rocks will just move or break with the force of pounding and driving the post in. Any recommendations. I am about to fix a double gate that is a whole other problem. One gate is hung by a single post and the other opens up hill. Yay for home ownership and DIY.
Also I noticed you shook your fence and it wobbled forever. My customers would complain on the wobbly fence on 100 to 300 ft runs
How does the strength of a post 3ft deep compare to one that's 2ft deep? I often see 2ft as the recommended depth? Thanks!
2' just isn't enough in my opinion, but it can vary depending on your soil type. th-cam.com/video/mc92svvCRFo/w-d-xo.html
I’m wondering how well driving posts works here in water-logged Louisiana soil?
Here's a test in waterlogged conditions: th-cam.com/video/mc92svvCRFo/w-d-xo.html
And last question, how do the building officials and inspectors treat this engineered post?
Would it be possible to install 2 of the engineered posts face to face ][.... Even if you did it one at a time and then bolted them together.... Seems like that would withstand anything...
You could totally double them up with a little welding.
with wet soil the fence woiuld contionue to lean in the wind and through the line of the fence off
The only thing I can say is the cost is astronomically more. Just not really a DIY type of product. But for a fence contractor should work just fine.
Hey SWI,
Looking to get a fence done and because of the length of fence (475 linear feet potentially) and the ease of Postmaster posts, I’m thinking of doing DIY and rented tools. I’m here in Kansas and worried about 1. How easily these are to DIY and 2. How well it’ll stand up to the mean Kansas wind
You got this. 💪🏻 1. Every DIY is different in their skill level, but we feel good about encouraging you to get it done. 2. I mean, I doubt it's worse than the hurricane winds we just tested in the video. Seriously, if you go deep enough you'll be fine. This is our method of choice in Wyoming and we have nothing but wind up here.
What about vs 6x6 it seems to be all were using ontario canada
We live in Oklahoma and have red clay. The clay tears up roads and house foundations regularly. How do the posts work and hold in clay? And we have incredibly crazy wind.
Clay is pretty dang solid. We have clay and high winds in Wyoming and our system works great for us up here. 👍🏻
Thank you.
@@SWiFencenothing like Texas or Oklahoma winds.
The airboat was an appropriate choice for testing. I wish more people would use this laid back approach in evaluating.
In the future when testing fire treated products, then please consider a F1 Fighter Jet...😮
Ooh! Love it!
I would love to see this same test with different driven depths. 4', 3', 2.5', 2', etc. I'm guessing 2' would fail but curious about the rest.
Here's a simple test with different posts, same exact principle. You can repeat this in your area to see what's what. th-cam.com/video/mc92svvCRFo/w-d-xo.html
Id love to see yall do the same build with round sch20 posts and see how it holds up
How’s the driving going over there in the Florida soil on the East Coast? I’m in Tampa and considering this method
We love it! Hate digging holes.
Mark explains: "Many people don't realize just how windy it is in Wyoming and I brought all that knowledge about wind with me to Florida...." Hmmmm. And look how windy it is in Florida now. Notice how calm it is when Dan speaks. Merely an observation.
Ooh! Good point! 😁😆
So, I am assuming that this is not a viable option in south Florida with lots of coral rock.
I'm assuming you have to drill and set anyway. May as well drill and set steel posts.
What a great type of post system. (but... I have a question)
I have an oopsie story. Over here in Tampa Bay, I decided to install a Patio Cover on my 54 year old house. I dug and placed two 8" concrete tubes with no issue. The third, I was digging at sundown, and encountered some funky broken cinder blocks as I was digging. I thought it a bit weird, but kept going. Finally, I came across some highly resistive stone going at an angle. Pulled out my digging bar and demolished it. When I dug it out, much to my surprise, it looked like clay tile... I had my wife flush the toilet on that side of the house, and... yeah.
Anyway, after a whole lot of digging and a 2' PVC & a couple Clay-to-PVC Ferncos later, I'm back up and running.
I highly doubt ANYONE would have expected a sewer pipe going diagonally from one end of the house to the main line coming out straight.
So my question is, have you ever encountered a strangely placed one-in-a-million pipe of any sort in your past and had an 'oopsie'? This one defied all logic.
Thanks!
Two years ago I ran an auger through an unmarked 6" irrigation line. It was fed by a full retention pond, so we had to let the whole pond drain just to fix it. 🤦♂️
great video cool idea
Now keep that test up for a week of continuous blustery wind like that and you'll have a decent test.
I can't speak for Wyoming but I know once you go east of the rocky mountains in Montana everywhere is windy, so I imagine it's due to the same reasons
Maybe Wyoming should be the testing grounds for what fences need to endure to get a PASS and a gold star.
The Columbian bam bam man I don't think I've heard it called that 😂. Ol devils dandruff
Why not use the round tubing posts if that's what's proven itself for cantilever strength and durability? Why use the Postmaster channel shape? An engineer would tell you the optimal post is an I-beam shape, not tubing or channel.
The simplest reason is because there is no way to hide the unsightly post with a typical round chain-link fence post. There is a balance between strength and aesthetics going on here.
Also, I beam i the first, but then postmaster design is second in wind rating. Then sch. 40 tube
I say for $62 each post they better not bend at all.
I need a fence in California do u travel
Not typically, sorry. 😞
@@SWiFence we need some fence builders like you guys here people around my town are sloppy and cut to many corners and then try and charge $$$$ for janky work !
Have you ever tried using the "Fence King Tac Welded Double PostMaster+ Posts" ?
I've never seen anyone else use this product.
Website description: "Fence King tac welds two PostMaster+ posts together for the most durable installation. These reinforced posts can be installed exposed or concealed with wood pickets. Posts installed in this method can withstand Category 2 hurricane-force winds of 115mph."
This method was actually developed by Master Halco, the makers of Postmaster. We've used it on rare occasions. In most applications, if you're using a dried cedar product, the gates typically aren't heavy enough to necessitate using that method.
Yes why don't you put the post 2-3 foot in the ground not 4 ft in the ground
You have to go deeper when you're driving. You're trading girth of hole with concrete for depth.
hard to justify the $120 per post. thats the only reason I can see to stick to 4X4.
Depends on a person's situation. Over half that cost is freight. Wish we could drop ship them but we can't. That means we're paying freight two directions.
@@SWiFence I am in agreement with @mitchyounger3565. $120 per post vs $25 for the wood post is exorbitant -- if you have to replace the fence in 10 years with wood posts maybe there is a new material available then, but 20 posts set 6' oc for a length of 120' of fence - wood posts @ $500, steel posts @ $2400... Too expensive. There is a competing product called "Lifetime posts" that are much the same with a fraction of the cost ($40/post) , and you can get them at Lowes or HomeDepot. Question is will the Rhino Post Pounder work with those.
Cost is way too much....
Depends how long you're planning for. The cost of replacing a fence is pretty brutal.
I found postmasters locally for $33.
Total cost per 4x4 installed would be $29.52.
PT 4x4 $14
2x bags concrete $12
4x Simpson fence brackets $3.52
An extra $3.50 per post was well worth it for greatly increased longevity and way easier installation.
Gentlemens you have me a bit wary of the results, on this one… I understand you have diplomas from Fence Erection University. You used a genuine alligator chasing air boat. And, that you used digital Any-mometers. But, are y’all certified Fence Demolitionists?
I mean, I’ve watched thousands of product advertisements over the years. And they all have a genuine doctor as their spokesperson! You can tell he/she is a doctor because of the smock and stethoscope they are wearing…
Y’all showed up for the first test in lab coats… I never doubted your qualifications. However after seeing that you’uns didn’t even bother to do it for the last few videos…. You have me wondering!
Were you only qualified to test homeowner grade installations?
Or is it just… the lab coats were still in the laundry?
Please advise so I can relax an have a good danged day.
PS: I have a stethoscope that I use to listen for engine rattles on my old Farmall… I can loan it to you for your next video. That’ll help dispel some of the doubt that this wardrobe malfunction has caused.
It... it got hot... But you're absolutely right! We should not be throwing our credentials away just to be more comfortable in warm weather. 😞😆
How in the world can you compare the way you installed the wood posts. Do it right. Wet pour and let it dry , come back the next day and test. You guys doing dry pack doesn't work in extreme situations like this wind. In houston we have hurricanes every year stronger than this test. Dry pour is ok but not the best.