Own a CT-F7070 (same as 7272 but without wooden side panels). Changed CrO2 and Fe-Cr lamps by 3mm warm light leds. The lamps (24VDC) , one of them, I use now for lightning the tape counter. REC and Dolby indicator are replaced by mat colored red and blue 5mm leds. Replaced the pinchroller 13mm/8mm/2mm , costs € 8,95. Belts are on their way to me. Cost € 13,95. Love to give my Pioneer SA-7500 (no MkII), TA-7500 (no MkII), CT-F7500, SE-305 headphone and 4way HPM 60 (1st generation) speakers a 2nd brand-new life. Hello from Marck, Amsterdam, former Betamax/Video8 and Hi8 service man for Sony NL. O jey, a 2nd CT-F7070 is also under its way. One Warning in general : don't cut you're fingers on the sharp edges of the chassis (after uppercase is removed). 😊
I really admire your tenacity and perseverance in bringing this venerable old machine back to life. Amazing that a dedicated repair kit was still available! There is so much complexity in these old machines, and as you say, they're all unique; it's kinda incredible that they were sold as consumer-level devices. The memory feature on this one is really cool. I think you may be well advanced on the curve of diminishing returns with this deck. Bringing it back to factory-level performance would be satisfying for sure, but getting really solid performance in playback and with all functions operational is a HUGE result in an of itself.
Thanks! And I think you're right that it's as good as it's going to get without major investment. Funny, I'm finishing up a video about cassettes, cassette decks, and why they should generally be avoided. I've learned the hard way!
To adjust azimuth without an alignment (usually 10Khz) tape, you can always put a pair of headphones on and listen-in for the best and highest treble content.
For my sins, I now have two of these decks. I'd prefer the CT-F9191, but that has a potential FF/RW clutch problem which is difficult to fix. And I say that as someone who pretty good at electronic/mechanical engineering. I actually cleaned the buttons on my CT-F7070 (almost the same as CT-F7272) with a damp cloth and metal polish - they came up a treat, like new ... well maybe 99.9% 'new'! ;o)
those old decks are really a labor of love. they lack the features and sound quality of the stuff from the 80s and 90s, but they look cool! i've also found they generally play older tapes that sound crappy in really hifi decks better. they kinda of smooth over the bumps or something
And of course the ones from the 70's only have one flavor of Dolby. I was never a fan of Dolby, but the pre-recorded tapes always present the dilemma: listen with extra noise or slightly muffled. I just got the belt kit for my Nakamichi LX-3, so I'll be interested to find out whether I can hear a difference, once I've adjusted the head in the Nakamichi.
@@Lancaster_Hi-Fi i find that dolby b (the 70s variety) sounds better than c, because the compression of c tends to be a little different from player to player, so it never sounds quite right unless you play a tape in the same thing it was recorded in. dolby b offers a great noise floor improvement IMHO. i used to hate it, but i have come around big time. dolby s is even better, but barely any prerecorded tapes shipped with s
Yep, just watching some of this again - you're not alone in partially bending the leaf switches, and forgetting to put certain belts back on! I've fixed many a deck, and I still do this, swearing at my dullard self all the way!
Fucking hell! This is the reality of a restoration job - you made it real. I wish you'd posted this a week ago because I bought a second-hand Sony TC-K555ESII and your experience here worries me greatly! I admire your perseverance - knowing when to walk away and take a break is a valuable element of the restoration process. You often come back with new things to try, until you don't, and then you are done. Glad playback is reliable and the sound quality is pretty nice - it's a beautiful deck!
Yeah, this video kept getting longer! When I started it, I was just using the selfie camera on my phone, with the phone resting on the deck. I think we can learn from my mistakes to make the next jobs less harrowing. A big one was looking for little parts, especially those clear plastic washers, that the guys at WJOE didn't notice in their teardowns--that's how they make their instructions. The other was to leave well enough alone with adjusting the play/record head and calibrating the meters--or never mind the meter calibration if it sounds good! I have another belt kit, for a Nakamichi LX-3, on my bench. Figured I'd strike while the iron was hot.
Took a CT-f850 apart for restoration and when came to taking the front plate off it was followed with a host of broken plastic in the mechanical front end and push buttons, I obviously wasn’t the first looking at the bad repairs to the plastic. Sadly I have abandoned the project and got another. I have electronically successfully restored 50% of the rig including a RT-909 reel to reel. I’ll check out your ste further.
I made a great many "mixed tapes" from this deck when I was 16. My dad gave this one away when he upgraded to a CT-F750. I really didn't understand tape decks back then. There was no "Dummies" book for these things, only audio magazine articles where they assumed you knew what the hell they were talking about. If I only knew then what I know now.
Cassette Decks: I've restored many, and yes, it is a game of patience, incrementally restoring one aspect then another. Not letting our emotions run away out of control. Of interest, the source of wow/flutter issues are puzzling; it's not just 'clean the heads, clean the pinch roller' etc. Many decks will sound good if carefully restored, and aligned. Despite the issues with this CT-F7272 deck, it sounds mechanically quite solid!?
Not "tires" but *TYRES!* Tire = verb: to physically and/or mentally exhaust oneself. Tyre = noun: the outer rim of a wheel, usually rubber, for a vehicle.
Take your tires-with-a-Y and put it with your glassy-ers and Al-you-Mini-um and your Francophile, affected, broad A's! Sorry, I'm just jealous of your huge, English accent and your real football. 🤣🤣🤣❤️
@@Lancaster_Hi-Fi My accent is *AUSTRALIAN!* but we inherited our language from *England,* just like America did, but unlike America, we *DID NOT* corrupt the language we inherited!
We did not corrupt it; we just inherited it earlier than you did. If you haven't read _Mother Tongue_ (don't recall the author), and you're a bit of an English language nerd, I recommend it. I think that's where I read that I'd you want to know what Elizabethan English sounded like, go to America. Can't remember if it was a particular regional accent or not. And sorry for confusing your Strine with being English. I know some of y'all are sensitive about that (Double the Fist!).
@@Lancaster_Hi-Fi We got English as our mother tongue in Australia directly from England itself and made *NO* alterations to the spelling of the words. Once their fixing into place by Samuel Johnson, creator of the *Oxford English Dictionary* was complete, we took them as they were. It was not our place to alter them. The only thing we added was our own particular vernacular(slang terms). America, on the other hand, is like the *two-year-old toddler that claims to know more than its grandparents* and arrogantly meddled with the language, tampering with the spelling of several words, such was the arrogance and impudence of Noah Webster. If he had been a child in a school English class, he'd have surely been placed in the corner with a dunce's cap on his head.
*Play/Record Multiswitch:* Yes De-Oxit and 'work it'! (I use Servisol Super 10, or equivalent here in the UK) *Playback Level Calibration:* Ideally use a full track calib tape, typically a 400Hz tone at Dolby Level (which is +2.7dB above old DIN standard '0VU'), then adjust said pots so that output = 10^(2.7/20)*1.07v or 1.46v (RMS). {This I've sourced the '1.07v' from the Service Manual, please do check this, it does seem quite high to me?} *Meter Calibration:* At this point adjust meters so that they rest at ~ 2.7dB above 0VU, ie Dolby Level. The DL symbol is there. *Record Calibration:* Varies for different tape sensitvities. Feed 333Hz .. 400Hz tone and adjust level at the user input so that the meters read '0' VU. Record and then playback the test and see how close PB is to '0' VU. Adjust internal pots so that PB rests at 0 VU. {Rec and PB does *not* have to be at 0 VU of course during this phase of overall calibration} Hope you don't mind me writing this, it's meant in good will! ;o) {Edited: forgot to include 'not', sorry about that)
I am afraid it's me again. ;o) I noticed several days ago that the plastic mechanisms on my CT-F7070 were cracking around the pins that hold the RW/FF idler wheels/tyres etc. What drew my attention was that RW wasn't working, and that Stop was getting difficult to press!? I suspected that something had come away, and so opening up the transport I saw that the RW idler and axial pin were at the bottom of the mechanism. I thought about carefully micro-roughing up the effected areas and later applying Gorilla Glue (or JB Weld), and guess what? .... it worked a treat!!! Actually I did apply the Gorilla glue, I know it is not suitable for all plastics but it worked so well. If you have to do this at any time, be aware that the said glue does expand over time, but can be easily sanded later. At least I've preserved the Pioneer for more years. ;o) Might be worth opening yours up and taking a peek to see if all is well?
@@Lancaster_Hi-Fi I've opened up mine several times, and have got to know it quite well. It is one of the better decks to work on - some decks are just a nightmare like the AIWA AD-F700/990 etc. FWIW just don't go there!
You can't start by adjusting recording as you would then have no reference. You need a reference tape for playback to set playback level against. Only after that can you adjust recording to work with the set playback levels. These large (many poles) oxidised switches sure don't help however...
You are one smart dude. I'd never attempt what you're doing. But then I'm like a novice. I can DeOxIt and that's about it. I'm working on or about to work on a CT-F8282. Did you realize there's a memory stop buttin on the deck that when on the tape will rewind, FFand play will all stop shutting itself off at the memory setpoint?
Any advice for signal issues caused by the internal play/rec switch? Everyone says to just blast it with Deoxit… and it does crate crystal clear audio… but overnight it always goes back to fuzzy and staticy :(
Work the switch 100X with the DeoxIT, then give it a second blast to flush. When you do the first blast, put the machine on its back so that the switch is straight up and down. Blast it from the front (now the top) and give it some time for the liquid to run down. After the last blast and letting it run down for a bit, flip it over onto its front so that the liquid can run out. Use a paper towel to absorb it.
Ahh, cassettes, (shaking head). I always had a love / hate (mostly hate) relationship with these things. Back in the day (late 80's early 90's), cassettes were the go to for a somewhat portable medium that you can record to. However, the low speeds did plague them with noise, and while you did have noise reduction, there was the issue of incompatibility when recording on one machine and playing back on another. The issue wasn't as bad with Dolby B. Then there were issues with the cassettes themselves when they aged. The highs would drift in and out, or you have dropouts. I had several different machines and the problems seemed to be the same with most of them. The dual capstan drive machines were better, but by the time I got to this point, I was already exposed to the wonderful sound of an open reel tape deck. At that point cassettes just wouldn't do anymore. However, open reel had its issues as well. They were more fiddly with the tapes, definitely not portable, they were expensive then and it did seem the writing was on the wall for future runs of new tape. Finally, aligning a machine wasn't for the faint of heart. Nor was replacing worn heads. So I got out of it as fast as I got into it. So when it came to analog sources, that left me with records. If you kept them clean and had a good cartridge on a decent turntable, they sounded better than cassettes any day. Portability is still a question, but they sounded great and were less fiddly than open reel. Given that these days, we have digital recording, and if I want to go analog, I still have records to listen to, I seriously doubt I would ever bother with a cassette deck again. There is a however. I was pretty fond of the Sony Elcaset performance and it looked to have a promising future, but alas, that format never took off.
I haven't moved a cassette deck into any of my regular listening systems and don't know if I ever will. Cassettes had their place back in the day, but you're right that digital sources have those places covered today. Now, I want to have at least one deck working for the few things that I only have on cassette, especially tapes produced by my friends' bands in the 80's.
@@Lancaster_Hi-Fi The Tascam 122 Mk2 is a nice deck. In fact, it was a recording studio deck. Nakamichi makes a nice deck as well. I would say that a good three head dual capstan drive machine will probably go a long way. Using metal cassettes is also prudent...if you can find them. Sadly, it seems they, as well as the Chrome cassettes have gone the way of the Dodo and the only type of cassette that I can still find is normal bias. And this was the last time I checked, which was a few years ago. Sadly though, as nice as many of these consumer decks look, they just don't cut it. If you love the tape sound, reel to reel is the best way to go. But it is fiddly and pricey.
Hi my name is Angelo I have a sick 1250 deck which needs tape head and a capstan motor and was wondering if you could help me find these components, I'm in Australia and came across your video on TH-cam..Regards Angelo
Wow .. I haven't you drop the f bomb like this... makes me not to want to ever attempt to repair a cassette deck. Way too much going on in that thing.. I have an old 8 track player-not sure if it works or not - i will be throwing that beast to the curb.
Own a CT-F7070 (same as 7272 but without wooden side panels). Changed CrO2 and Fe-Cr lamps by 3mm warm light leds. The lamps (24VDC) , one of them, I use now for lightning the tape counter. REC and Dolby indicator are replaced by mat colored red and blue 5mm leds. Replaced the pinchroller 13mm/8mm/2mm , costs € 8,95. Belts are on their way to me. Cost € 13,95. Love to give my Pioneer SA-7500 (no MkII), TA-7500 (no MkII), CT-F7500, SE-305 headphone and 4way HPM 60 (1st generation) speakers a 2nd brand-new life. Hello from Marck, Amsterdam, former Betamax/Video8 and Hi8 service man for Sony NL. O jey, a 2nd CT-F7070 is also under its way. One Warning in general : don't cut you're fingers on the sharp edges of the chassis (after uppercase is removed). 😊
I really admire your tenacity and perseverance in bringing this venerable old machine back to life. Amazing that a dedicated repair kit was still available!
There is so much complexity in these old machines, and as you say, they're all unique; it's kinda incredible that they were sold as consumer-level devices. The memory feature on this one is really cool.
I think you may be well advanced on the curve of diminishing returns with this deck. Bringing it back to factory-level performance would be satisfying for sure, but getting really solid performance in playback and with all functions operational is a HUGE result in an of itself.
Thanks! And I think you're right that it's as good as it's going to get without major investment. Funny, I'm finishing up a video about cassettes, cassette decks, and why they should generally be avoided. I've learned the hard way!
I’m about to tackle one of these a ct f 8282 very similar glad u made the video thanks
To adjust azimuth without an alignment (usually 10Khz) tape, you can always put a pair of headphones on and listen-in for the best and highest treble content.
For my sins, I now have two of these decks. I'd prefer the CT-F9191, but that has a potential FF/RW clutch problem which is difficult to fix. And I say that as someone who pretty good at electronic/mechanical engineering.
I actually cleaned the buttons on my CT-F7070 (almost the same as CT-F7272) with a damp cloth and metal polish - they came up a treat, like new ... well maybe 99.9% 'new'! ;o)
Yeah, I was pleased and surprised at how well the buttons polished up!
those old decks are really a labor of love. they lack the features and sound quality of the stuff from the 80s and 90s, but they look cool! i've also found they generally play older tapes that sound crappy in really hifi decks better. they kinda of smooth over the bumps or something
And of course the ones from the 70's only have one flavor of Dolby. I was never a fan of Dolby, but the pre-recorded tapes always present the dilemma: listen with extra noise or slightly muffled. I just got the belt kit for my Nakamichi LX-3, so I'll be interested to find out whether I can hear a difference, once I've adjusted the head in the Nakamichi.
@@Lancaster_Hi-Fi i find that dolby b (the 70s variety) sounds better than c, because the compression of c tends to be a little different from player to player, so it never sounds quite right unless you play a tape in the same thing it was recorded in. dolby b offers a great noise floor improvement IMHO. i used to hate it, but i have come around big time. dolby s is even better, but barely any prerecorded tapes shipped with s
Yep, just watching some of this again - you're not alone in partially bending the leaf switches, and forgetting to put certain belts back on! I've fixed many a deck, and I still do this, swearing at my dullard self all the way!
Fucking hell! This is the reality of a restoration job - you made it real. I wish you'd posted this a week ago because I bought a second-hand Sony TC-K555ESII and your experience here worries me greatly! I admire your perseverance - knowing when to walk away and take a break is a valuable element of the restoration process. You often come back with new things to try, until you don't, and then you are done. Glad playback is reliable and the sound quality is pretty nice - it's a beautiful deck!
Yeah, this video kept getting longer! When I started it, I was just using the selfie camera on my phone, with the phone resting on the deck. I think we can learn from my mistakes to make the next jobs less harrowing. A big one was looking for little parts, especially those clear plastic washers, that the guys at WJOE didn't notice in their teardowns--that's how they make their instructions. The other was to leave well enough alone with adjusting the play/record head and calibrating the meters--or never mind the meter calibration if it sounds good! I have another belt kit, for a Nakamichi LX-3, on my bench. Figured I'd strike while the iron was hot.
Took a CT-f850 apart for restoration and when came to taking the front plate off it was followed with a host of broken plastic in the mechanical front end and push buttons, I obviously wasn’t the first looking at the bad repairs to the plastic. Sadly I have abandoned the project and got another. I have electronically successfully restored 50% of the rig including a RT-909 reel to reel. I’ll check out your ste further.
I made a great many "mixed tapes" from this deck when I was 16. My dad gave this one away when he upgraded to a CT-F750. I really didn't understand tape decks back then. There was no "Dummies" book for these things, only audio magazine articles where they assumed you knew what the hell they were talking about. If I only knew then what I know now.
Indeed!
my dad has that deck was cream of the crop?? You good tech!!!!
Great video!
Learning A lot!
I should have this deck at my house....
Time to mess with it😉
Cassette Decks: I've restored many, and yes, it is a game of patience, incrementally restoring one aspect then another. Not letting our emotions run away out of control.
Of interest, the source of wow/flutter issues are puzzling; it's not just 'clean the heads, clean the pinch roller' etc.
Many decks will sound good if carefully restored, and aligned.
Despite the issues with this CT-F7272 deck, it sounds mechanically quite solid!?
Not "tires" but *TYRES!* Tire = verb: to physically and/or mentally exhaust oneself. Tyre = noun: the outer rim of a wheel, usually rubber, for a vehicle.
Take your tires-with-a-Y and put it with your glassy-ers and Al-you-Mini-um and your Francophile, affected, broad A's! Sorry, I'm just jealous of your huge, English accent and your real football. 🤣🤣🤣❤️
@@Lancaster_Hi-Fi My accent is *AUSTRALIAN!* but we inherited our language from *England,* just like America did, but unlike America, we *DID NOT* corrupt the language we inherited!
We did not corrupt it; we just inherited it earlier than you did. If you haven't read _Mother Tongue_ (don't recall the author), and you're a bit of an English language nerd, I recommend it. I think that's where I read that I'd you want to know what Elizabethan English sounded like, go to America. Can't remember if it was a particular regional accent or not. And sorry for confusing your Strine with being English. I know some of y'all are sensitive about that (Double the Fist!).
@@Lancaster_Hi-Fi We got English as our mother tongue in Australia directly from England itself and made *NO* alterations to the spelling of the words. Once their fixing into place by Samuel Johnson, creator of the *Oxford English Dictionary* was complete, we took them as they were. It was not our place to alter them. The only thing we added was our own particular vernacular(slang terms). America, on the other hand, is like the *two-year-old toddler that claims to know more than its grandparents* and arrogantly meddled with the language, tampering with the spelling of several words, such was the arrogance and impudence of Noah Webster. If he had been a child in a school English class, he'd have surely been placed in the corner with a dunce's cap on his head.
*Play/Record Multiswitch:* Yes De-Oxit and 'work it'! (I use Servisol Super 10, or equivalent here in the UK)
*Playback Level Calibration:* Ideally use a full track calib tape, typically a 400Hz tone at Dolby Level (which is +2.7dB above old DIN standard '0VU'), then adjust said pots so that output = 10^(2.7/20)*1.07v or 1.46v (RMS). {This I've sourced the '1.07v' from the Service Manual, please do check this, it does seem quite high to me?}
*Meter Calibration:* At this point adjust meters so that they rest at ~ 2.7dB above 0VU, ie Dolby Level. The DL symbol is there.
*Record Calibration:* Varies for different tape sensitvities. Feed 333Hz .. 400Hz tone and adjust level at the user input so that the meters read '0' VU. Record and then playback the test and see how close PB is to '0' VU. Adjust internal pots so that PB rests at 0 VU. {Rec and PB does *not* have to be at 0 VU of course during this phase of overall calibration}
Hope you don't mind me writing this, it's meant in good will! ;o)
{Edited: forgot to include 'not', sorry about that)
I don't mind at all! I'm always happy to learn! Thanks!
Maybe using FM white noise between stations with a mono Y-connector to adjust levels?
I am afraid it's me again. ;o)
I noticed several days ago that the plastic mechanisms on my CT-F7070 were cracking around the pins that hold the RW/FF idler wheels/tyres etc. What drew my attention was that RW wasn't working, and that Stop was getting difficult to press!? I suspected that something had come away, and so opening up the transport I saw that the RW idler and axial pin were at the bottom of the mechanism. I thought about carefully micro-roughing up the effected areas and later applying Gorilla Glue (or JB Weld), and guess what? .... it worked a treat!!! Actually I did apply the Gorilla glue, I know it is not suitable for all plastics but it worked so well. If you have to do this at any time, be aware that the said glue does expand over time, but can be easily sanded later. At least I've preserved the Pioneer for more years. ;o)
Might be worth opening yours up and taking a peek to see if all is well?
Thanks, that's good to know! Yeah, I think there's still something with a little too much give in my deck. I haven't wanted to open it up again!
@@Lancaster_Hi-Fi I've opened up mine several times, and have got to know it quite well. It is one of the better decks to work on - some decks are just a nightmare like the AIWA AD-F700/990 etc. FWIW just don't go there!
I'm not sure I'll ever attempt to restore another tape deck.
You can't start by adjusting recording as you would then have no reference. You need a reference tape for playback to set playback level against. Only after that can you adjust recording to work with the set playback levels. These large (many poles) oxidised switches sure don't help however...
I just wish the standard tapes weren't so expensive!
You are one smart dude. I'd never attempt what you're doing. But then I'm like a novice. I can DeOxIt and that's about it. I'm working on or about to work on a CT-F8282. Did you realize there's a memory stop buttin on the deck that when on the tape will rewind, FFand play will all stop shutting itself off at the memory setpoint?
Yeah, that's a nifty feature! As for smarts, you could question how smart it was to even start the project!
Any advice for signal issues caused by the internal play/rec switch? Everyone says to just blast it with Deoxit… and it does crate crystal clear audio… but overnight it always goes back to fuzzy and staticy :(
Work the switch 100X with the DeoxIT, then give it a second blast to flush. When you do the first blast, put the machine on its back so that the switch is straight up and down. Blast it from the front (now the top) and give it some time for the liquid to run down. After the last blast and letting it run down for a bit, flip it over onto its front so that the liquid can run out. Use a paper towel to absorb it.
I own a Deck that looks alot like this one in the video except it hasn't a wood case and other brand on it called ERRES
Did you try blowing on it? Getting achient dust molecules in your eyes?
Ahh, cassettes, (shaking head). I always had a love / hate (mostly hate) relationship with these things. Back in the day (late 80's early 90's), cassettes were the go to for a somewhat portable medium that you can record to. However, the low speeds did plague them with noise, and while you did have noise reduction, there was the issue of incompatibility when recording on one machine and playing back on another. The issue wasn't as bad with Dolby B. Then there were issues with the cassettes themselves when they aged. The highs would drift in and out, or you have dropouts. I had several different machines and the problems seemed to be the same with most of them. The dual capstan drive machines were better, but by the time I got to this point, I was already exposed to the wonderful sound of an open reel tape deck. At that point cassettes just wouldn't do anymore. However, open reel had its issues as well. They were more fiddly with the tapes, definitely not portable, they were expensive then and it did seem the writing was on the wall for future runs of new tape. Finally, aligning a machine wasn't for the faint of heart. Nor was replacing worn heads. So I got out of it as fast as I got into it. So when it came to analog sources, that left me with records. If you kept them clean and had a good cartridge on a decent turntable, they sounded better than cassettes any day. Portability is still a question, but they sounded great and were less fiddly than open reel. Given that these days, we have digital recording, and if I want to go analog, I still have records to listen to, I seriously doubt I would ever bother with a cassette deck again. There is a however. I was pretty fond of the Sony Elcaset performance and it looked to have a promising future, but alas, that format never took off.
I haven't moved a cassette deck into any of my regular listening systems and don't know if I ever will. Cassettes had their place back in the day, but you're right that digital sources have those places covered today. Now, I want to have at least one deck working for the few things that I only have on cassette, especially tapes produced by my friends' bands in the 80's.
@@Lancaster_Hi-Fi The Tascam 122 Mk2 is a nice deck. In fact, it was a recording studio deck. Nakamichi makes a nice deck as well. I would say that a good three head dual capstan drive machine will probably go a long way. Using metal cassettes is also prudent...if you can find them. Sadly, it seems they, as well as the Chrome cassettes have gone the way of the Dodo and the only type of cassette that I can still find is normal bias. And this was the last time I checked, which was a few years ago. Sadly though, as nice as many of these consumer decks look, they just don't cut it. If you love the tape sound, reel to reel is the best way to go. But it is fiddly and pricey.
May I ask what is the actual specs (size) for the idler tire?
Sorry, I don't know.
Hi my name is Angelo I have a sick 1250 deck which needs tape head and a capstan motor and was wondering if you could help me find these components, I'm in Australia and came across your video on TH-cam..Regards Angelo
I don't know the model. Unless it's super deluxe, I'd cut my losses.
You have two sites?
If you mean two channels, yes. The other is called geomorphdog. It's mainly stuff related to my day job.
Wow .. I haven't you drop the f bomb like this... makes me not to want to ever attempt to repair a cassette deck. Way too much going on in that thing.. I have an old 8 track player-not sure if it works or not - i will be throwing that beast to the curb.
Yeah, I thought about trying to bleep out the F-bombs, but I didn't want to sugarcoat the truth! 🤣
Someone will easily restore it. Just gift it to someone who knows how to do it.
I second that! (Six months later! Oh, well.)
ФУ ЛОБКОВЫЙ ВОЛОС.
🤣