8:37, the warm-up. Love it. Actually, I've done a bunch of work recently with two analogue cameras back to back, (one with colour, and another with b&w film) and my mobile phone. I take the same shot with all three, then I snap a view of the two cameras so I can record what shutter speed and f-stop the cameras were at, and when the film is developed, I can compare and see what worked the best. Guess what, 50mm prime lenses work really well on f8 and f11, surprise surprise! I'm told that back in the day, professional photographers would test critical shots out with a Polaroid before using their main cameras.
Perhaps attend a night school course in photography for better understanding and practical help. Input from the tutor (and fellow students) can be invaluable. When I completed my A-level course, I was humbled by how much more 'vision' my fellow students had. This made me realise how 'narrow' my view was. It helped me to improve a lot.
Hi max, my top tips for this sort of you tube video, first 24 mins too long, you could produce two videos part one and part two with 10 in each (and a bonus) saving you a lot of time. Secondly, the tips appeared to be in a random order, would have been useful and tension building (more storey telling) if you put them in some sort of order, of good to most useful, this would have also given us a bit more on your journey. Hope that helps. Finally my tips for film on a budget is to get a cheap film camera, buy one good lens, bulk buy bow film and load it yourself and develop yourself. I bought a Ricoh gr3 2nd hand for £700 (lovely EDC digital camera) and I bought a Bronica sqa medium format film camera with four lenses, a bulk loader, 30m of film and all the developing equipment and chems for the same price! Good luck
Thanks for putting the time in Toby, bulk loading film is a great way to save money! A lot of my videos are shorter but for this one I wanted it to be a good hub of info but thanks, it’s always good to get feedback!
Hi. I’ve been watching a lot of your videos for the last couple months, and coming back to them as well to rewatch them as I’ve learned more and gained more experience. I need to check your channel, but if don’t already have a video on it, it would be nice to see what type of editing you do on film scans and hear you go more into detail 🫶 18:20
I bought a Spotamatic SP11 camera with a full set of Takumar prime lenses I bought the kit mainly for the Takumar lenses 35mm3.5, 50mm1.4, 135mm3. 5 & 80- 300 zoom . The kit it came with filters , extension tubes 2x teleconverter . I left the camera in a backpack for 2 years when Pentax came out with the new Pentax 17 half frame camera I decided to give the Spotamatic a try If I was going to photograph with film I wanted a full frame camera with interchangeable lenses. The light Seals needed replacing and I replace them with $ 8.00 i supplies from Walmart. I shot the first roll of film with Fuji ASA 200 color film I used my Minolta light meter to meter for espourser and all the pictures came out and only needed minor editing with my editing program
4:11 the only reason why overexposing works it's because of film's dynamic range, you cannot have low dynamic range and being able to overexpose and still get details. If you ever scanned films yourself, you would know that when a photo is properly exposed, most colors on the histogram are on the left, leaving a wide space on the right, in the bright area. If film had a low dynamic range, then the histogram would look like digital, colors spread all over the histogram and overexposing would kill the details in the highlights.
I don’t agree about overexposing. shoot at speed and work the negative in post. Both in development and printing, or scanned and in Lightroom or Photoshop. Overexposing can blowout highlights. And make it look flat. A properly exposed shot gives you the best image and the most dynamic range. If you overexpose everything then you don’t know what you’re doing. Use aperture to control Depth of Field. f/11 to f/22 gives you the most depth of field for images you want everything in focus. f/1.4 to f/5.6 gives you a shallower depth of field to help concentrate on your subject. f/8 is a good compromise between the two extremes. Shutter speeds are what you use to convey action. Whether it be stop action with fast shutter speeds or motion blur will slow shutter speeds. I also don’t agree with you on zoom lenses, yes prime lenses are better, but you can get good quality zoom lenses. One of my favorite lenses was a 28-200 zoom lens with great quality and sharpness. I was also able to get shots that you can’t get with a prime lens. I would say the majority of pictures taken are boring with poor composition and technical quality. Those that aren’t bad are good for scrap books and photo albums. Or some memory of a trip or something pictures we might frame. Very few pictures are worth putting up on the wall or even published. You might get one in a roll of film. I know, I worked as an army photographer and shot thousands of photographs. I ran our darkroom and developed mine as well as the others in the office. I also worked at a one hour photo lab and developed thousands of rolls of film. It was like looking at the same pictures over and over again, from the bad to the good ones. Composition is important as well as your settings. All that comes together in the camera, but that’s only one half of photography. The second half is in the darkroom, first with processing, and the second is working the image. Rarely is picture ready to go after development. Pick the film that works for you, but use the right ISO for the lighting conditions that give you the most reciprocity. Soft light hash light depends on what you are going for. Either could be good or problematic. Flash photography you could take a class alone on it. But basic flash photography isn’t too hard.
Colorplus has a vintage look. So it’s kinda cool for your own snap shots. More of a memory than just perfection.
Yeah definitely, my mantra is to shoot what you can afford, bad film can’t hold you back from taking good photos but not taking any photos can!
8:37, the warm-up. Love it. Actually, I've done a bunch of work recently with two analogue cameras back to back, (one with colour, and another with b&w film) and my mobile phone. I take the same shot with all three, then I snap a view of the two cameras so I can record what shutter speed and f-stop the cameras were at, and when the film is developed, I can compare and see what worked the best. Guess what, 50mm prime lenses work really well on f8 and f11, surprise surprise! I'm told that back in the day, professional photographers would test critical shots out with a Polaroid before using their main cameras.
Tip 1, take your lens cap off
Great tips! I’ve been shooting with my Minolta X-700 for a bit now, and I’ll definitely apply these to up my game. Thanks for the valuable info!
3:20 that photo is amazing and not easy to spot at all. Only a photographer with a very trained eye would be able to spot this composition.
Thank you for this ❤
This is a great video ❤
Thanks Charlotte 😎😎😎
Perhaps attend a night school course in photography for better understanding and practical help. Input from the tutor (and fellow students) can be invaluable. When I completed my A-level course, I was humbled by how much more 'vision' my fellow students had. This made me realise how 'narrow' my view was. It helped me to improve a lot.
Great video thanks for the tips.
Thanks a lot Johan
Hi max, my top tips for this sort of you tube video, first 24 mins too long, you could produce two videos part one and part two with 10 in each (and a bonus) saving you a lot of time. Secondly, the tips appeared to be in a random order, would have been useful and tension building (more storey telling) if you put them in some sort of order, of good to most useful, this would have also given us a bit more on your journey. Hope that helps. Finally my tips for film on a budget is to get a cheap film camera, buy one good lens, bulk buy bow film and load it yourself and develop yourself. I bought a Ricoh gr3 2nd hand for £700 (lovely EDC digital camera) and I bought a Bronica sqa medium format film camera with four lenses, a bulk loader, 30m of film and all the developing equipment and chems for the same price! Good luck
Thanks for putting the time in Toby, bulk loading film is a great way to save money!
A lot of my videos are shorter but for this one I wanted it to be a good hub of info but thanks, it’s always good to get feedback!
Mike Mo's part in the Lakai Fully Flared video!
Thanks so much for this video, bro!
Glad you like it man, thanks for the appreciation!
Hi. I’ve been watching a lot of your videos for the last couple months, and coming back to them as well to rewatch them as I’ve learned more and gained more experience. I need to check your channel, but if don’t already have a video on it, it would be nice to see what type of editing you do on film scans and hear you go more into detail 🫶 18:20
Oh and thanks for all the content, you have great tips and I’ve learned a lot with your help.
Hey dude! Thanks a lot, I might make something about that in the near future 🔥🔥
I bought a Spotamatic SP11 camera with a full set of Takumar prime lenses I bought the kit mainly for the Takumar lenses 35mm3.5, 50mm1.4, 135mm3. 5 & 80- 300 zoom . The kit it came with filters , extension tubes 2x teleconverter . I left the camera in a backpack for 2 years when Pentax came out with the new Pentax 17 half frame camera I decided to give the Spotamatic a try If I was going to photograph with film I wanted a full frame camera with interchangeable lenses. The light Seals needed replacing and I replace them with $ 8.00 i supplies from Walmart. I shot the first roll of film with Fuji ASA 200 color film I used my Minolta light meter to meter for espourser and all the pictures came out and only needed minor editing with my editing program
4:11 the only reason why overexposing works it's because of film's dynamic range, you cannot have low dynamic range and being able to overexpose and still get details.
If you ever scanned films yourself, you would know that when a photo is properly exposed, most colors on the histogram are on the left, leaving a wide space on the right, in the bright area.
If film had a low dynamic range, then the histogram would look like digital, colors spread all over the histogram and overexposing would kill the details in the highlights.
Aperture part - f/16-22 would be bad due to diffraction. Would avoid like the plague
"nothing matters do what you want" lol
It’s the truth 🙌
Color plus and gold 200 both cost the same in my country
Do you convert your own pictures?
13:10 but they both can shoot
I don’t agree about overexposing. shoot at speed and work the negative in post. Both in development and printing, or scanned and in Lightroom or Photoshop. Overexposing can blowout highlights. And make it look flat. A properly exposed shot gives you the best image and the most dynamic range. If you overexpose everything then you don’t know what you’re doing. Use aperture to control Depth of Field. f/11 to f/22 gives you the most depth of field for images you want everything in focus. f/1.4 to f/5.6 gives you a shallower depth of field to help concentrate on your subject. f/8 is a good compromise between the two extremes. Shutter speeds are what you use to convey action. Whether it be stop action with fast shutter speeds or motion blur will slow shutter speeds.
I also don’t agree with you on zoom lenses, yes prime lenses are better, but you can get good quality zoom lenses. One of my favorite lenses was a 28-200 zoom lens with great quality and sharpness. I was also able to get shots that you can’t get with a prime lens.
I would say the majority of pictures taken are boring with poor composition and technical quality. Those that aren’t bad are good for scrap books and photo albums. Or some memory of a trip or something pictures we might frame. Very few pictures are worth putting up on the wall or even published.
You might get one in a roll of film. I know, I worked as an army photographer and shot thousands of photographs. I ran our darkroom and developed mine as well as the others in the office. I also worked at a one hour photo lab and developed thousands of rolls of film. It was like looking at the same pictures over and over again, from the bad to the good ones.
Composition is important as well as your settings.
All that comes together in the camera, but that’s only one half of photography. The second half is in the darkroom, first with processing, and the second is working the image. Rarely is picture ready to go after development.
Pick the film that works for you, but use the right ISO for the lighting conditions that give you the most reciprocity.
Soft light hash light depends on what you are going for. Either could be good or problematic.
Flash photography you could take a class alone on it. But basic flash photography isn’t too hard.
And overexposure can add grain if you've gone too far.
Well said.
My tip is to throw away you digital camera. With film you tend to think about your shot instead of just shooting away and hope for something good.
Learn on film and proceed with digital. Thats what I did. I continue to shoot both.
you look sorrowful, is everything okay?
I live in England
@@maxkent🤣
@@maxkent lol