I started watching this video and immediately started removing all of my load bearing walls. I will finish watching the video later. Thank you for these tips!
I always wanted my Dad to teach me his skills. He only ever showed me a couple of things. He passed in 2020, and it left a big void for me. These videos make me feel like I have the father I needed growing up. Thank you so much (from the UK)
@@txmade4371 Don't think he'd work with his dad every day if he hated it. Plus his father is leaving him something to continue on, like parents do for their children.
I am teaching construction discipline work ethic and most importantly one day when he is a father the blessing of being present. Cheers! and BTW we have a lot of fun together...it wasn't always that way. so this is awesome for us both!
I learned more watching your channel than in 4 years of expensive college,honestly, if people used concrete instead of wood for houses, maybe my brain wouldn’t feel as fragile as it does now
I love that you are making those videos and how you do that. When I have to do something at our house, I like to try some of your techniques. Very interesting content, and of course everyone loves to watch how others are working. 😂
Last fall I moved an outside eve support and found they had nailed it in place from the inside of the house when they were framing the house. That nail in now inside the wall forever.
I know it’s not what you want to do or it’s just a headache but you should build/ remodel peoples homes man I like that you knowledgeable and actually care about doing things the right way or the better long term way on most all things you do.
Cheers! I am focused on my own projects for now however I am happy to help if you need advice. Once I have all 4 kids in homeownership I can refocus Cheers!
Hey Jeff, you seem like a jack of all trades, you dabble in everything and you seem pretty good at it all. But what are you most comfortable doing? Framing (or re-framing in cases like this) , finish work like trim and floors, electrical etc. I just think it be interesting to know what you personally think you do best
I love watching your videos. Learning new things every time. Will still consult an engineer if I’m not sure of something. Can’t go wrong that way plus the building inspectors can’t jerk me around !! 😉
@ I do have a question though. I’m putting down trim in my house and my flooring is unlevel. I tried scribing it and it just looks bad. My flooring has high and low spots.
I recently bought a home that was built in 1990. We just discovered that the exterior walls consist of just 3/4" foam board sheathing beneath the vinyl siding. The home literally sounds like a popcorn machine whenever the sun is intermittently blocked by clouds. Worse, a large section of the rear wall is significantly rotted. This extensive rot appears to stem from the builder's failure to flash three sets of triple window/door wall units on both floors. It seems the previous owner deliberately concealed these problems before the sale. But the worst discovery involves the floor joists. The builder used undersized 2x8 lumber for ALL floor joists, spanning a maximum of 12 feet in each room. While the rotted wall was a major blow, the inadequate floor joists are truly disheartening, severely limiting any potential for structural renovations beyond cosmetic upgrades. sucks! Good luck with your project though. Hope everything goes smooth and looking forward to seeing the progress! 👍
Been there, done that. Messin around with Tyvek is sometimes a pain. That's why Zip sheathing is popular. I probably would have just left that old window framing in and just added studs for the sheathing nail pattern. Probably would have just shot some insulation in between the 2x10's of that old header.
I am working with a designer and so all the lines in this house need to be to speck. So the header was too small and not centered for the design. Cheers!
I wonder if you’d be willing to do a test of what’s the best floor paint to cover porcelain tile? I thought Rust-oleum was the only one, but there’s also INSL-X, and maybe other products out there? I’m pretty intimidated to take this huge step and would love to see you compare the different products. (I saw your shower and tub re-finish video. But this is for flooring, and outside the bathroom. My foyer, kitchen, breakfast nook, and a hall.) Thanks in advance and thanks for all the great videos!!!
header fails code, needs to be solid wood tight nailed bothsides no gaps and fastended to sheathing. insulate inside, drywall screws not required. also looks like you might need to be 3 ply header on that span. i have personally never seend one at that span without being 3 ply 2x10 but im sure it will be ok for your region if you have minimal snowloads. you didnt get a drawing done??? or pulled a permit i guess... mostly right but i would consider doing things properly especialy load bearing elemnts of your exterior walls, doubley when you are increasing the size of the window. LOVE YOUR VIDEOS! CHEERS!
@6:00 I've only ever helped my construction worker father build stuff, but that is a joke. I don't do it for a living and I think I would get closer to typical code than that install.
I’m not sure you have great support with your temp support wall. the bottom member of the roof truss is only designed to take load at the end where it meets the top member. That puts it in compression. But the way you have it loaded is in bending. It’s not nearly as strong in that mode as it’s only a 2x4. 2x4’s are much stronger in compression than bending. I would be a lot more comfortable if there was a diagonal meeting the bottom of that truss where you have your temporary support wall. The way you are doing it is certainly better than nothing but it’s a bit sketchy.
You need to recognize how much load the wall is holding: the wall that you are planning to get into. If the ceiling joists are also running same direction, then this video doesn't begin to represent your needs. I think: get an engineer involved. I know, this could impede on the budget. I suspect that the wall you want to work on has a gable (roof). This will reduce the load you are dealing with. If you have either a hipped roof or I was wrong about your project being on gable end of house... this could be a bad game of Jenga w/o an engineer. I have seen situations where the contractor supports what they can. Then start on demolition. They will work like an inchworm, methodically resupporting as the demolition & rebuild continue. It becomes labor intensive having to support, cut open and build more support, demolition and then creating a proper level line by adjusting supports as one rebuilds. This process means sometimes there is sagging, which can create problems like future roof leaks. I will have a similar issue in my 1870 house where I replaced all the floor joist in my kitchen which was added on circa 1908. This makes the project difficult like yours for my east wall (parallel situation). After I replaced 29 joists, I started lifting the back (south) wall up ~4 inches. This phase isn't finished. Because of the balloon construction, I plan to "clamp" the east wall in the area of the ceiling in the kitchen. Think of a ledger board for a balcony/ deck. But there will be 2 ledger boards; 1 inside and 1 outside. Then, the supports will attach to the clamp. The supports will go to my crawl space floor, requiring some thought into the base. I mentioned roof leaking, earlier. Mine is a mess, possibly 45 years old. So I live with the leaking. Until I get things level, the roof keeps getting pushed into directions it doesn't like. This sucks as the price to replace my roof has gone from $20k to $35k in 8 years.
no problem. but you need to build the same wall underneath as well and if your not on a joist then build it to the subfloor directly underneath. Cheers!
very easy to get plumb on an existing building. we checked to see if the corner was good and it was. as for the zip. no benefit to zip 1 wall when nothing else is. Cheers!
I’m only commenting on this video to hopefully get more responses. I’m trying to cut cement board for my bathroom and don’t have a table saw. Can I use my miter saw to cut 4’x6’ cement board? I tried to use my circular saw, but it’s just an awful cut. Need more stability
how many times did that dewalt circular saw stop while doing that? I had one of those and just got sick of it, had no power at all. The flexvolt is a different story but I didn't want to have 2 dewalt voltages to get the right tools. Part of the reason I went milwaukee and the 18v circular saw is very good. Prob very comparable to the flexvolt EDIT: Just saw the milwaukee nailer. Lol Jeff's running into the same restrictions I did with Dewalt too. The framing 20V framing nailer is uesless and the milwaukee is fantastic just as long as you don't have to nail ANYTHING overhead.
Youd have a hayday with my 1930s bungalow sears catalog diy house I bought. Itll be a century old with crumbling plaster and lathe stuff in the next 5 to 10 years.
@homerenovision Looking for the video that shows how to remove plaster walls down to the studs and installing drywall. I know it was this channel I just can’t find the video anymore.
If I purchase an old house should I remove all the drywall to inspect the insulation, electrical, rot, pests, etc? Just so I won’t have any surprises in the future.
no need. just do a thermal test to look for missing or sagging insulation. everything else is going to be exactly what you expect. the older the house the more integrity the builder. Cheers!
Is it fair to say that if the initial weight bearing wall is made out of 2 by 4 .. the temporary wall should also be ? Meaning if the wall was made 2 by 6 you should probably not make the temporary wall out of 2 by 4 ?
all depends. 2x6 was used to increase the R rating of the wall not the structural load. however if you have a 3 story house then definitely use a 2x6 12" O/C. Cheers!
I would have Loved you to tell everyone about how sick people become from black mold it’s spores! Millions are sick & mostly Mom’s & babies. Spray foam grows mold. My remediator has seen it & I have too. Build safely🙏
Hi Laura. I agree spray foam requires more thought than just the R value. That is why we change everything about moisture management when spray foaming. we will be using a conditioned attic with air exchanger and a steel roof to completely protect against water infiltration and moisture being trapped in the attic. the truth is the sprayfoam does not cause the mold the mold is in the wood. if that wood goes beyond 60% relative moisture then mold grows. so we build to prevent that. Mold is a deadly problem in a lot of older house in America for a lot of reasons. So yes. please folks if you have it treat it seriously. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY actually if 51% humidity your growing mold. I have made this my study for over a year! ERV is what manages humidity in a home & full house dehumidifier!
Just be aware that some of that old sheeting and siding of that vintage may contain asbestos. This siding is aluminum and obviously fine, but it wouldn't hurt to get that old "cardboard" sheeting tested. On that note, also be careful of working in the attic or exposing the ceiling joists in older houses. If you see some flakey and gritty kitty litter looking stuff up there, it's called vermiculite and it was used as insulation. It's a good possibility that it contains asbestos. It may not, but it's worth getting it checked out before you start stirring it up and breathing in all that fine dust. Vermiculite is one of the most dangerous forms of asbestos a contractor can come in contact with. Just be smart. If you're a contractor or DIYer working on older homes, learn about the construction methods and materials that used to be used.
Hi Paul. good advice. we actually had an asbestos abatement team in before we started this renovation and had everything removed. This project is 100% safe. Thanks for that advice. Its one thing to work for yourself it is another thing to expose your kids. Cheers!
So thats not proper at all, you need to add a verticle to the truss above the temp wall because your introducing bending into a truss that was designed for axial load only. You could crack those truses and collapsed your roof. Please talk to an engineer next time.!!!!!
It’s a cost saving measure that aligns with production speed. I think most people would love to have concrete houses but it’s just not financially viable for 95% of people who need a place to live. Edit to add, these are surprisingly energy efficient too.
He's doing spray foam, it's not cheap, and doesn't make sense to spray on old flimsy sheathing. Which is easy to replace IF you're already replacing sidings, windows, doing framing changes
He said at the beginning, there are mold and mildew stains around the windows, the wall was not built with standard spacing, and had too many thermal bridges. Every extra 2x6 in that wall makes a path for energy loss.
we have a new floor plan which means new window location and sizing, plus moldy sheathing so starting new makes my wall much more energy efficient than working around all the existing framing. Cheers!
Sounds like someone is scared to lose business. Stick the bill to the 1% let the rest struggling with a shit economy save money by learning to do renos themselves. You greedy pig
Randoms have been doing attempting stuff like this for years and years before TH-cam. If a “random” was watching one of these videos that at least means they are trying to do it right.
I started watching this video and immediately started removing all of my load bearing walls. I will finish watching the video later. Thank you for these tips!
Please be sure to consult with a professional engineer before removing any load bearing walls! Cheers!
I always wanted my Dad to teach me his skills. He only ever showed me a couple of things. He passed in 2020, and it left a big void for me. These videos make me feel like I have the father I needed growing up. Thank you so much (from the UK)
sorry for your loss. Never stop learning. It makes you free. Cheers!
I love watching and learning even for projects I will most likely never do!
Cheers Rayna! I love your continued support! You rock!
Not everybody gets to spend this much time with their dad/son, especially having fun and earning like this. Good job guys, that's a heck of a life.
Who said the son is having fun?
@@txmade4371 Don't think he'd work with his dad every day if he hated it. Plus his father is leaving him something to continue on, like parents do for their children.
I am teaching construction discipline work ethic and most importantly one day when he is a father the blessing of being present. Cheers! and BTW we have a lot of fun together...it wasn't always that way. so this is awesome for us both!
I learned more watching your channel than in 4 years of expensive college,honestly, if people used concrete instead of wood for houses, maybe my brain wouldn’t feel as fragile as it does now
But concrete is much higher of a cost
What about earthquakes?
I hear you! Building with wood is definitely an art form, but we have to work with what we've got. Cheers!
I love that you are making those videos and how you do that. When I have to do something at our house, I like to try some of your techniques.
Very interesting content, and of course everyone loves to watch how others are working.
😂
Glad you like them!
Always learning when watching you Jeff and Matt. Thanks for yet another great video.
Cheers Mark! glad you find it helpful.
Even though there are other construction codes here, I still learn a lot.
Thank you guys
Our pleasure!
Looking forward to this new chapter
Just trying to getter done. Me too. I like your style, Jeff!
Thanks 👍
43:33 that transition was sickkk
I thought I watching Jack Tripper from Three's Company when you were dancing with the caulking! lol Great video!!
Oh the good ol days!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Darn right!! TV shows that were funny! lol
Last fall I moved an outside eve support and found they had nailed it in place from the inside of the house when they were framing the house. That nail in now inside the wall forever.
I know it’s not what you want to do or it’s just a headache but you should build/ remodel peoples homes man I like that you knowledgeable and actually care about doing things the right way or the better long term way on most all things you do.
Cheers! I am focused on my own projects for now however I am happy to help if you need advice. Once I have all 4 kids in homeownership I can refocus Cheers!
@ awesome thank you!
Hey Jeff, you seem like a jack of all trades, you dabble in everything and you seem pretty good at it all. But what are you most comfortable doing? Framing (or re-framing in cases like this) , finish work like trim and floors, electrical etc. I just think it be interesting to know what you personally think you do best
Nice job gentlemen 👍
Cheers Brad!
I love watching your videos. Learning new things every time. Will still consult an engineer if I’m not sure of something. Can’t go wrong that way plus the building inspectors can’t jerk me around !! 😉
very true bill. once you have that red seal all the inspectors can do is check if you built to speck. Cheers!
My wife calls Jeff my TH-cam dad. He teaches me everything I know about working on our house. Lol.
That is humbling. Happy to be of help! Cheers!
@ I do have a question though. I’m putting down trim in my house and my flooring is unlevel. I tried scribing it and it just looks bad. My flooring has high and low spots.
Is this the handy man from Red Green?
You’d stress me out so bad to work with 😅.
I recently bought a home that was built in 1990. We just discovered that the exterior walls consist of just 3/4" foam board sheathing beneath the vinyl siding. The home literally sounds like a popcorn machine whenever the sun is intermittently blocked by clouds. Worse, a large section of the rear wall is significantly rotted. This extensive rot appears to stem from the builder's failure to flash three sets of triple window/door wall units on both floors. It seems the previous owner deliberately concealed these problems before the sale.
But the worst discovery involves the floor joists. The builder used undersized 2x8 lumber for ALL floor joists, spanning a maximum of 12 feet in each room. While the rotted wall was a major blow, the inadequate floor joists are truly disheartening, severely limiting any potential for structural renovations beyond cosmetic upgrades. sucks!
Good luck with your project though. Hope everything goes smooth and looking forward to seeing the progress! 👍
that is tough. there were a lot of homes built before code with 2x8 floor joists. limiting the flooring to carpet and sheet vinyl.
Been there, done that. Messin around with Tyvek is sometimes a pain. That's why Zip sheathing is popular. I probably would have just left that old window framing in and just added studs for the sheathing nail pattern. Probably would have just shot some insulation in between the 2x10's of that old header.
I am working with a designer and so all the lines in this house need to be to speck. So the header was too small and not centered for the design. Cheers!
I wonder if you’d be willing to do a test of what’s the best floor paint to cover porcelain tile?
I thought Rust-oleum was the only one, but there’s also INSL-X, and maybe other products out there?
I’m pretty intimidated to take this huge step and would love to see you compare the different products.
(I saw your shower and tub re-finish video. But this is for flooring, and outside the bathroom. My foyer, kitchen, breakfast nook, and a hall.)
Thanks in advance and thanks for all the great videos!!!
maybe someday. Cheers!
Built up wood beams need to be against each other to transfer shear friction to make them effective. That foam between reduces your header strength.
agreed, that is why it is less than 7' and also passed framing inspection. Cheers plus it provides a thermal break at the glass!
header fails code, needs to be solid wood tight nailed bothsides no gaps and fastended to sheathing. insulate inside, drywall screws not required. also looks like you might need to be 3 ply header on that span. i have personally never seend one at that span without being 3 ply 2x10 but im sure it will be ok for your region if you have minimal snowloads. you didnt get a drawing done??? or pulled a permit i guess... mostly right but i would consider doing things properly especialy load bearing elemnts of your exterior walls, doubley when you are increasing the size of the window. LOVE YOUR VIDEOS! CHEERS!
In truth the code has changed so we shortened the length of that window after the fact to 7' to pass inspection. Cheers!
Did you say anything about requiring to get permits or inspections for all that you are doing?
everything is on permits and I have a structural engineer to help with all major elements.
Your awesome sauce. Just say'n.
Cheers! I appreciate that. we try our best for sure!
@6:00 I've only ever helped my construction worker father build stuff, but that is a joke. I don't do it for a living and I think I would get closer to typical code than that install.
I’m not sure you have great support with your temp support wall. the bottom member of the roof truss is only designed to take load at the end where it meets the top member. That puts it in compression. But the way you have it loaded is in bending. It’s not nearly as strong in that mode as it’s only a 2x4. 2x4’s are much stronger in compression than bending. I would be a lot more comfortable if there was a diagonal meeting the bottom of that truss where you have your temporary support wall. The way you are doing it is certainly better than nothing but it’s a bit sketchy.
it was summer time so not holding much up anyway. for better strength with load use 2x6 and 12" O/C. Cheers!
Why would you not use zip sheathing? Esp. if you are going to leave it unsided for the winter. The Milwaukee framing nailer is a great tool.
no reason to use zip on 1 wall of a building. just added cost and the tyvek when secured properly does everything I need. Cheers!
Hey Jeff, how about building temporary supporting walls that run parallel with your trusses or floor joists?
You need to recognize how much load the wall is holding: the wall that you are planning to get into.
If the ceiling joists are also running same direction, then this video doesn't begin to represent your needs.
I think: get an engineer involved. I know, this could impede on the budget.
I suspect that the wall you want to work on has a gable (roof). This will reduce the load you are dealing with. If you have either a hipped roof or I was wrong about your project being on gable end of house... this could be a bad game of Jenga w/o an engineer.
I have seen situations where the contractor supports what they can. Then start on demolition. They will work like an inchworm, methodically resupporting as the demolition & rebuild continue. It becomes labor intensive having to support, cut open and build more support, demolition and then creating a proper level line by adjusting supports as one rebuilds.
This process means sometimes there is sagging, which can create problems like future roof leaks.
I will have a similar issue in my 1870 house where I replaced all the floor joist in my kitchen which was added on circa 1908. This makes the project difficult like yours for my east wall (parallel situation). After I replaced 29 joists, I started lifting the back (south) wall up ~4 inches. This phase isn't finished.
Because of the balloon construction, I plan to "clamp" the east wall in the area of the ceiling in the kitchen. Think of a ledger board for a balcony/ deck. But there will be 2 ledger boards; 1 inside and 1 outside. Then, the supports will attach to the clamp. The supports will go to my crawl space floor, requiring some thought into the base.
I mentioned roof leaking, earlier. Mine is a mess, possibly 45 years old. So I live with the leaking. Until I get things level, the roof keeps getting pushed into directions it doesn't like. This sucks as the price to replace my roof has gone from $20k to $35k in 8 years.
no problem. but you need to build the same wall underneath as well and if your not on a joist then build it to the subfloor directly underneath. Cheers!
Glad I found your channel. I was watching your subfloor videos. Are you supposed to use tongue and groove, or can you just buy pieces of plywood?
t and g is better in regions where you get expansion and contraction. Cheers!
Wondering if you've ever done a DIY driveway series. Asphalt not concrete
there is no such thing as diy asphalt to the best of my knowledge. but maybe a permeable drive way in this series. Cheers!
Curious..didn't see you use a level once to check plumb? Was it edited out? Also..why not use zip system for new sheathing?
very easy to get plumb on an existing building. we checked to see if the corner was good and it was. as for the zip. no benefit to zip 1 wall when nothing else is. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thanks for the reply!
I would love to hear an honest comparison of all the "siding" options. Wood, vinyl, aluminum, cement, and anything else
going to KBIS this year in vegas to research and thinking of exactly that. Cheers!
Do you recycle/re-use some of that nice lumber, or not cost effective?
time is more expensive than trying to reuse. Cheers!
Dang use a larger pry bar instead the the hammer. You will kill your joints like that
I’m only commenting on this video to hopefully get more responses. I’m trying to cut cement board for my bathroom and don’t have a table saw. Can I use my miter saw to cut 4’x6’ cement board? I tried to use my circular saw, but it’s just an awful cut. Need more stability
You cut cement board by scoring it with a utility knife and then putting pressure on it to snap the piece, comes out clean and is very fast and easy.
go buy a cement board blade for the circular saw. life changer. Cheers!
how many times did that dewalt circular saw stop while doing that? I had one of those and just got sick of it, had no power at all. The flexvolt is a different story but I didn't want to have 2 dewalt voltages to get the right tools. Part of the reason I went milwaukee and the 18v circular saw is very good. Prob very comparable to the flexvolt
EDIT: Just saw the milwaukee nailer. Lol Jeff's running into the same restrictions I did with Dewalt too. The framing 20V framing nailer is uesless and the milwaukee is fantastic just as long as you don't have to nail ANYTHING overhead.
I found the power stack to be the best battery on the market. Cheers!
Youd have a hayday with my 1930s bungalow sears catalog diy house I bought. Itll be a century old with crumbling plaster and lathe stuff in the next 5 to 10 years.
love that. those sears houses were pretty good!
@homerenovision Looking for the video that shows how to remove plaster walls down to the studs and installing drywall. I know it was this channel I just can’t find the video anymore.
check out reality renovision. my second channel from a few years back.
would you please have you had a project that had a Cathedral Ceiling OR a Vaulted Ceiling? would you please show a video for it??
coming soon. everything from footings to installing a 26' ridge beam by ourselves. Cheers!
Bottom truss chord is not a beam. 😮
Buy a stinger cap stapler! It will change your life!
If I was to do this regularly then sure. however I only wrap 1 house every 3 to 4 years. so maybe!
If I purchase an old house should I remove all the drywall to inspect the insulation, electrical, rot, pests, etc? Just so I won’t have any surprises in the future.
Cheap inspection cameras work great. Drill small hole and look around. Walls, pipes, siding, sill plates, etc
no need. just do a thermal test to look for missing or sagging insulation. everything else is going to be exactly what you expect. the older the house the more integrity the builder. Cheers!
Is it fair to say that if the initial weight bearing wall is made out of 2 by 4 .. the temporary wall should also be ? Meaning if the wall was made 2 by 6 you should probably not make the temporary wall out of 2 by 4 ?
all depends. 2x6 was used to increase the R rating of the wall not the structural load. however if you have a 3 story house then definitely use a 2x6 12" O/C. Cheers!
I would have Loved you to tell everyone about how sick people become from black mold it’s spores! Millions are sick & mostly Mom’s & babies. Spray foam grows mold. My remediator has seen it & I have too. Build safely🙏
Hi Laura. I agree spray foam requires more thought than just the R value. That is why we change everything about moisture management when spray foaming. we will be using a conditioned attic with air exchanger and a steel roof to completely protect against water infiltration and moisture being trapped in the attic. the truth is the sprayfoam does not cause the mold the mold is in the wood. if that wood goes beyond 60% relative moisture then mold grows. so we build to prevent that. Mold is a deadly problem in a lot of older house in America for a lot of reasons. So yes. please folks if you have it treat it seriously. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY actually if 51% humidity your growing mold. I have made this my study for over a year! ERV is what manages humidity in a home & full house dehumidifier!
Just be aware that some of that old sheeting and siding of that vintage may contain asbestos. This siding is aluminum and obviously fine, but it wouldn't hurt to get that old "cardboard" sheeting tested. On that note, also be careful of working in the attic or exposing the ceiling joists in older houses. If you see some flakey and gritty kitty litter looking stuff up there, it's called vermiculite and it was used as insulation. It's a good possibility that it contains asbestos. It may not, but it's worth getting it checked out before you start stirring it up and breathing in all that fine dust. Vermiculite is one of the most dangerous forms of asbestos a contractor can come in contact with. Just be smart. If you're a contractor or DIYer working on older homes, learn about the construction methods and materials that used to be used.
Hi Paul. good advice. we actually had an asbestos abatement team in before we started this renovation and had everything removed. This project is 100% safe. Thanks for that advice. Its one thing to work for yourself it is another thing to expose your kids. Cheers!
All that mold after 50 years, doesn't look that bad.
that is because old house leak a lot of air so it dries as fast as it gets wet. Cheers!
They build outside walls with 2x4’s in the US😬😬
that is because in some areas there is no need for more insulation. 2x4 is fione for a 1 story house in the south. Cheers!
what i did was instead of building a temporary support wall just a support pillar
that works if you have joist and trusses line up. otherwise your pillars are on subfloor. Cheers!
So thats not proper at all, you need to add a verticle to the truss above the temp wall because your introducing bending into a truss that was designed for axial load only. You could crack those truses and collapsed your roof. Please talk to an engineer next time.!!!!!
no worries John. and yes it worked. Cheers!
Have you heard of an oscillating tool?
yup. look great in video but in reality are very slow so I hardly use them. Cheers!
How many sq. ft. is your home?
I actually have no idea. LOL. 25 x 50 i think.
And you wonder why all those houses in L.A. went up like paper! Americans love building houses out of wood instead of concrete!!!
I don't really think they use that much would anymore. It's more paper and cardboard.
@@bullithedjames937You’re mistaken. Most houses are still being stick framed.
It’s a cost saving measure that aligns with production speed.
I think most people would love to have concrete houses but it’s just not financially viable for 95% of people who need a place to live.
Edit to add, these are surprisingly energy efficient too.
Jeff is Canadian, this is how they build houses too
Too Soon!
That's not a house mate that's a big wooden shed
whats the difference?
@@richardalfaro4529 about 60 grand
@@richardalfaro4529Heat source + insulation.
Try to do renovations on your concrete house.
@@gregbrady8454 don't have to cause it's built to standard
Am I having Deja Vu?
maybe. this was originally a live show cut down to serve a larger audience. Cheers!
why does it feel like you exaggerate some stuff, so what if the "cardboard" looks a bit wet?? by your standards we have to gut 60 pct of Ontario lol
He's doing spray foam, it's not cheap, and doesn't make sense to spray on old flimsy sheathing. Which is easy to replace IF you're already replacing sidings, windows, doing framing changes
I am sure if I left it I would also get a ton of hate for not updating it. Cheers! My house my rules!
I'm 10 minutes in. For perspective, will you please share WHY you are removing the exterior wall.
He said at the beginning, there are mold and mildew stains around the windows, the wall was not built with standard spacing, and had too many thermal bridges. Every extra 2x6 in that wall makes a path for energy loss.
If you want to build an addition
Mold kills ppl that’s why.
we have a new floor plan which means new window location and sizing, plus moldy sheathing so starting new makes my wall much more energy efficient than working around all the existing framing. Cheers!
Honestly this isnt something we should be teaching randoms on youtube... This is why we get trained to be contractors and then we get the work.
Sounds like someone is scared to lose business. Stick the bill to the 1% let the rest struggling with a shit economy save money by learning to do renos themselves. You greedy pig
Most people wouldn’t dare to take down a panel of drywall. Let alone an entire LB wall. Don’t worry.
Randoms have been doing attempting stuff like this for years and years before TH-cam. If a “random” was watching one of these videos that at least means they are trying to do it right.
@Alexanderbuilds2001 teach the customers to do it themselves the right way... totally justified "at least they will do it the right way" LOL
@42:24 can you just put a wall and don't move the header?
bad thermal bridge. Cheers!