At 8:25 you place a knot in the sling which only serves to increase the V angle and weaken the sling. Is there some other reason to put the knot in that sling?
This is one of the best instructional videos I've ever seen on TH-cam. Superb work, I will suggest it to all my climbing students. Thanks for your work!
I'm not one to needlessly criticise youtube vids, on the whole this one was good but I did notice at about 5:50 where he places the hex, he clips the crab with the gate facing into the rock. There's a small but genuine risk of the gate opening on contact with the rock in a fall, reducing the strength of the crab to about 1/3 of normal.
I have a climbing friend that says its not best to jerk down hard on the nut a coupe of times adbruptly after placing it and says its better to just pull downwards smoothly. I tried explainng how that wont work well the same as pushing a nail down with a hammer rather than hitting wont wedge it fully into place. Any comments to help him understand guys?
The anchor which is "about as good as it gets" has zero redundancy. If the rock moves, the gear fails, or some other calamity happens (which they do), the anchor will fail, which is a real drag for everyone involved.
+Ryan Reese I think he's referring to the anchor as a "placement", meaning a single natural feature that's not going to move, like a huge boulder or stout tree. As far as a belay anchor, you are correct, there's no redundancy in that single sling and it could be easily backed up by slinging your lead rope around the boulder as well.
An amazing video great work! Thank you. Finally someone who has good camera placement good simple instructions and doesn't rush through anything. Thank you.
Glad you guys are not over serious about putting out climbing instructional vids or I would be out of business. Yours is one of the better ones maybe not as good as mine but still pretty good.
Nice primer on placing pro, although...do you guys never use extendable alpine draws (runners)? Also, is it common place to belay off of a single anchor like that? Granted, both the boulder and the spire were pretty solid, but not redundant...
What you are saying is correct , but anchor redundancy, construction or general belaying tecnique was not the main topic of the video, so they just ocused on the actual placement. And for the draws, well, an alpine draw offer many advantages, but many times it's not mandatory at all
You should make more videos. I agree with the aforementioned sentiments that most vids on here are crapola. How about rappelling and anchor building? Nicely done.
As an Instructional Designer, I find that the instructional component combined with the video production has got quite o lot of good elements. The instructional I see as a good overview that could be broken down into specific element. In general though I Iike what you have produced.
It was for a belay....good idea in that case I'd say although he should have had some redundancy on that piece. If he had been climbing past it though he would have been much better off just girth hitching the whole rock. and not putting that 8 in it.
What if you reach a point where there is no cracks, like almost smooth surface and you're really high up? Time to go down or is there a workaround? Sorry, I obviously don't know shit about climbing. I just saw the movie Meru and I was fascinated at how they did it towards the top where the granite were and how delicate they were. How did they do that part cause they didn't show it.
Your question touches the debates and fights between two worlds in climbing. The mentality between "traditional" (trad) and "modern" climbing. Each one follows its own principles to draw a different path up. The former uses cracks and holes and holds to place nuts or slings or wedges (not nails). If there are not such features on the rock or on the mountain, then they bypass from a different path. The later uses anything suitable enough to make it to the top by any means, even drills and chemicals and bolts. Personally, a climber myself, I believe that "modern manners" of climbing (like those I described above) should be banished by a law from the mountains and rocks. Anyone who likes to make its own way up anything, by drilling or cracking or smashing, should do it on special buildings constructed for that purpose, not on nature's structures. This issue is not theoretical anymore but practical. Thousands of climbers swarm every season on mountains and rocks.
@@SavvasHiker Good luck banning single pitch sport all over the world. It's an entirely different sport that wouldn't exist if there weren't drilled anchors in the rock. By that logic we should also ban trails, roads, signs, houses and everything that it's in the mountains and it's artificial. The issue is not white or black and putting bolts in a rock in the mountains is not as destructive as many outdoors activities we see as normal.
At 9:30 - where in the world did you learn to belay? You release your hand from the rope and use the other hand! WRONG. One always should reach above the belay hand and slide it back never letting go of the rope. Good video but wrong belay technique.
Pull, Brake, Under, Slide (PBUS) is not the standard technique in Sweden. Switching hands (while always having at least ONE hand on the brake rope) is considered safe.
this video DVD production quality! Very nice !
At 8:25 you place a knot in the sling which only serves to increase the V angle and weaken the sling. Is there some other reason to put the knot in that sling?
Really good Video. Thank you for uploading. More like this for upcomming videos would be nice.
This is one of the best instructional videos I've ever seen on TH-cam. Superb work, I will suggest it to all my climbing students. Thanks for your work!
Thank you so much for uploading this
Great video! I was just wondering when you would choose to use a hex over a nut, or a cam over a hex etc? Very informative and useful video.
best gear placing video i have ever seen can you make one on anchoring and how to top rope from a anchor
Excellent video with some lovely shots. Its a shame that there was no dvd made.
I'm not one to needlessly criticise youtube vids, on the whole this one was good but I did notice at about 5:50 where he places the hex, he clips the crab with the gate facing into the rock. There's a small but genuine risk of the gate opening on contact with the rock in a fall, reducing the strength of the crab to about 1/3 of normal.
I have a climbing friend that says its not best to jerk down hard on the nut a coupe of times adbruptly after placing it and says its better to just pull downwards smoothly. I tried explainng how that wont work well the same as pushing a nail down with a hammer rather than hitting wont wedge it fully into place. Any comments to help him understand guys?
First things first. Make sure your pants aren’t longer than your shoes. You don’t want to slip.
Wow this is a nice little gem hidden away. Hopefully it gets more views from the intrested.
The anchor which is "about as good as it gets" has zero redundancy. If the rock moves, the gear fails, or some other calamity happens (which they do), the anchor will fail, which is a real drag for everyone involved.
+Ryan Reese I think he's referring to the anchor as a "placement", meaning a single natural feature that's not going to move, like a huge boulder or stout tree. As far as a belay anchor, you are correct, there's no redundancy in that single sling and it could be easily backed up by slinging your lead rope around the boulder as well.
Very true. Thank you for the input.
I wouldn't worry about that Boulder moving and yes the sling can break, but where are you going to generate 22kn?
Excellent video, best on this subject, well filmed, presented and diagrams helpful. Thank you.
An amazing video great work! Thank you. Finally someone who has good camera placement good simple instructions and doesn't rush through anything. Thank you.
Great instructional video, liked it alot, clear and methodical, shame that the DVD wasn't produced.
In horizontal cracks the outward lobes should be placed downward. Your photo is contrary to this
so true.
I love this video. Makes me wanna go out trad climbing :)
Glad you guys are not over serious about putting out climbing instructional vids or I would be out of business. Yours is one of the better ones maybe not as good as mine but still pretty good.
Great video ...thanks for sharing..
Nice primer on placing pro, although...do you guys never use extendable alpine draws (runners)? Also, is it common place to belay off of a single anchor like that? Granted, both the boulder and the spire were pretty solid, but not redundant...
What you are saying is correct , but anchor redundancy, construction or general belaying tecnique was not the main topic of the video, so they just ocused on the actual placement. And for the draws, well, an alpine draw offer many advantages, but many times it's not mandatory at all
Great video! Sorry the dvd never came out
Great video. I realize you are only demoing placements but at 7:15 your quickdraw biner gate is facing right and you also climb out right.
You should make more videos. I agree with the aforementioned sentiments that most vids on here are crapola. How about rappelling and anchor building? Nicely done.
As an Instructional Designer, I find that the instructional component combined with the video production has got quite o lot of good elements. The instructional I see as a good overview that could be broken down into specific element. In general though I Iike what you have produced.
It is rare to find a good instructionvideo, this one is the first "good" one i have found, If anyone knows about other please link to them :)
Now that they're at the top with all their gear out of the rock, how do they get down safely?
Two locking carabiners for the anchor belay loop with space for two more carabiners.
great video
very clear and easy to understand everything :) 10/10
was there a full movie produced???
i think ur channel is the only one ive ever wanted to subscribe to.. so thats what ive done :)
Very nice vid! pity it isent available on DVD or other media. I most certainly would buy it.
Excuse me if this question is stupid, but if you put a sling/runner/webbing around a sharp flake rock, couldn't it cut it when sudden force hits it?
The sling is not supposed to move. If it moves it's a bad spot.
wow, what great tips and advice! i will definitatly use this information and pass it on!
@daveyella I'm curious about this myself, where did you hear or read about that?
@snowlineproductions Cool, have u climbed Door Post and Black Slab? =-)
Amazing video-- this has answered a lot of questions for me.. I've subscribed. Thank you!
Great instructional video. Nice section above the ocean. Is that the UK?
Hi, yes we shot that section at Bosigran in Cornwall.
Brilliant video. Well presented, instructional and easily comprehended. Bravo.
Such a good example of what can be done when people work together :)
at 7:29 did he backstep the rope?
+King of Dongles yes
Beautiful and helpful instructional video for beginners!!! Thank you.
Excellent and very informative video, well presented. Thank you...
Hex's too noisy? Roll up some cardboard and stuff it within.
I personally like the cowbell noises. Better than listening to somebody blaring crappy music at a crag.
I too have a pair of Boreal Jokers.
@irelandrufc Unfortunately not...
nice video dude. Just one gripe, there was no need to knot the sling at the end though. Bad practice in my opinion.
It was for a belay....good idea in that case I'd say although he should have had some redundancy on that piece. If he had been climbing past it though he would have been much better off just girth hitching the whole rock. and not putting that 8 in it.
What if you reach a point where there is no cracks, like almost smooth surface and you're really high up? Time to go down or is there a workaround? Sorry, I obviously don't know shit about climbing. I just saw the movie Meru and I was fascinated at how they did it towards the top where the granite were and how delicate they were. How did they do that part cause they didn't show it.
Your question touches the debates and fights between two worlds in climbing. The mentality between "traditional" (trad) and "modern" climbing. Each one follows its own principles to draw a different path up.
The former uses cracks and holes and holds to place nuts or slings or wedges (not nails). If there are not such features on the rock or on the mountain, then they bypass from a different path. The later uses anything suitable enough to make it to the top by any means, even drills and chemicals and bolts.
Personally, a climber myself, I believe that "modern manners" of climbing (like those I described above) should be banished by a law from the mountains and rocks. Anyone who likes to make its own way up anything, by drilling or cracking or smashing, should do it on special buildings constructed for that purpose, not on nature's structures.
This issue is not theoretical anymore but practical. Thousands of climbers swarm every season on mountains and rocks.
@@SavvasHiker Good luck banning single pitch sport all over the world. It's an entirely different sport that wouldn't exist if there weren't drilled anchors in the rock. By that logic we should also ban trails, roads, signs, houses and everything that it's in the mountains and it's artificial.
The issue is not white or black and putting bolts in a rock in the mountains is not as destructive as many outdoors activities we see as normal.
Simple & helpful. Congrats!
Action starts at 1:04
Excelent video, thanks!!
very well done video
Nice video! Keep it up!
Great tutorial.
good vid ! well done !
great video
Execllent!
what knot did you tie to belay from above?
Figure 8
At 9:30 - where in the world did you learn to belay? You release your hand from the rope and use the other hand! WRONG.
One always should reach above the belay hand and slide it back never letting go of the rope. Good video but wrong belay technique.
Pull, Brake, Under, Slide (PBUS) is not the standard technique in Sweden. Switching hands (while always having at least ONE hand on the brake rope) is considered safe.