Is the high heat underlayment you used sufficient for a wildfire area? I know that unless you use an underlayment designed for wildfires that the radiant heat from the fire can transfer through a metal roof and set the sheathing on fire.
Great Video!!! Any thoughts on running the zip R up to the bottom of the roof deck and sealing between the joists to keep the continuous air barrier (similar to what Matt and Scott True have done with their monopoly framing?) Would be tricky cutting Zip R to fit around I joists. But would eliminate the need to spray foam the inside of the blocking? Just wondering if you would still need a vapor retarder with the full air barrier and your Zehnder inside? Keep the great content coming!!
There have been several TH-cam videos where people have used a layer of spray foam followed by fiberglass batt insulation. Some have experienced condensation on the interior surface of the closed cell spray foam. In this video, I don't know what percentage of the R value is above and below the the spray foam/blown-in cellulose interface, but lets just say it is 50/50. If that is the case, if it is 20F degrees outside and 68F inside, a difference of 48F degrees, then the inside surface of the spray foam will be at 44F degrees. If the indoor relative humidity is at 50%, the dewpoint is at about 48F degrees. Since the spray foam surface is at 44F degrees, it is 4F degrees below the dewpoint, so condensation may occur. Because of this, they say it is best to put most of the insulation on the exterior in that kind of setup. I don't know what the R values are in this video, so I'm not saying there is a problem. If most of your insulation is the polyiso and spray foam, it is probaby not a problem. People don't always realize that the batt (or blown-in) insulation is also isolating your roof deck from the interior warmth but not the inside humidity.
Good Lord....it was brutal listening to the procedure being explained for EPDM installation! Hell I was in Local 33 out of Dorchester (roofers union) and we installed MILES of thee Carlisle/Goodyear any rubber ...the yellow glue is for substrate and the black for "rubber to rubber" seams that get rolled....What they are applying is a "screw and glue." I am of the opinion that it is the best waterproofing system available and I was doing this work in the early to mid 80's. Hell we did the Garden / MIT/ BC/ Harvard...let alone all the other private buildings and of course public buildings...just saying it was painful to hear these guys describe what is common place to me. I was raised in Southeastern Mass. and I sound like these guys....wicked Pissa!
While you get good description of the roof vent under metal portion of it, you missed part of roof vent exit. In addition, flat roof portion does not have roof vent at all - why so? is it code compliant?
What material is the 1x12 and 1x8 for the fascia on the flat roof section? PVC for durability? Just wood, trusting that the drip edge will protect it? Something else?
Curious about the long Std Seam Panels and designated Fixed Points…moderate slope 50’ length may be better mid point fix and expansion to eave/ridge detail…
watched the whole thing at 1.75x hehe. i rewind for the things i don’t understand. everything looked great. only at the end did i wonder about those double stacked 2x4s. i’m wondering if the shadow board spacer is also there to give the 2x4s a path to dry out to. maybe would place 1 foot pieces with couple inches between each. lots of detail, so i’m probably overlooking something. fun to think about!
Why don't more people run plumbing vents out the side of a house under an overhang instead of cutting a hole in the roof? Cutting a bunch of holes in the roof just feels wrong, even if there are boots and other ways of sealing things up.
Agree with that. Around here we use 4.5" pipes, and only need 1 vent for the whole building. The vent must be above the roof though. Can go out through the wall but must end above the roof.
you can look up RCABC's guild lines for metal roofs. even if you arent in BC Canada, its a great guildline . (you might be warm climate, but fasters and details are largely the same). how much pen you want into the Substrate depends on screw being used and what you are screwing to
@@HerbaceousM8Thanks. It didn't look like a very long screw. I'm in Texas, Tornado alley. They have a fortified roof program that the insurance companies would give rebates on if the homeowner builds the roof to the fortified roof specifications. The length of the screw and the spacing is a part of it.
its all the same stuff now a days, if it has the same warrantee its going to be fine. and dont touch the 40mil, at least use 60 or 80 if possible. Versico is actually a pretty common name, they have been around like 30 years
I want a flat roof, shaded and on the north side of the house, that I can put all the HVAC equiment on. Would have to figure out how to do it without penetrations though, maybe by running pipe into a virticle wall then down. Very interesting stuff.
Pumicecrete is by far the best building material on the planet Pumicecrete is a mixture of pumice cement and water mixed and poured into a set of reusable forms walls are poured from 12"to 24" thick pumicecrete is fireproof termite proof rust rot and mold proof non toxic and has a high R value and good sound attenuation solid poured walls means no critters can live in your walls Pumicecrete can be built for a fraction of the cost and time and pumice is one of the few building materials that can go directly from the mine to the job site ready to use without any additional possessing and zero waste Google all the walls of my house are made of pumicecrete Take care Ray
And always in a construction project in the Boston area, there's a guy named "Bawb". Luckily this guy isn't named "Vila" and the only skill he has is to "bless" the project by patting it once it's done.
Yes, there’s ALWAY a blue collar dude named Bawb. Villa has/had a brother/cousin something who’s a home inspector. “Ah yaw, that they-ah is a wall.” Oh thank you for the heads-up, dude! WORST, worst, home inspector I’ve ever used. Didn’t even look at the roof properly, and there were huge problems “up they-ah.” How do talentless people become celebrities? Oh wait, who’s the guy on the show with Bob? Dave? I think it was Dave’s relative. “Oh never mind,” to quote Rosanna Danna. 😳🫢😬
Please they have land don’t put anything on the roof as far as solar goes. If I’m a betting man and I’m not they will have to remove that system in 10 years.
Really nice looking -- QUESTION -- Why do you have so many layers of waterproofing? If they actually work, who not lay all the required pieces down and make the last one the rubber/zip product that is waterproof? I saw Matt Ressinger do something similar on his build. However, I can't help but think that should any water make it past the top "waterproof" layer, then it will get stuck between one or more of these repeated waterproof layers ie it will never be able to escape. The problem with a "perfect seal" is that should it leak you now create a system with no exit points and the water will ping pong around forever. Why not simply do the wood sheathing, lay the insulation then do one single water proof layer and then the metal roof or tile. Done.
Thanks for trusting our rail-less (direct-attach) solar mounting system, the PVKIT.
The peak of the "flat" roof is the roof's "Continental Divide", the "roofinental divide", hee hee. Jayman...
Is the high heat underlayment you used sufficient for a wildfire area? I know that unless you use an underlayment designed for wildfires that the radiant heat from the fire can transfer through a metal roof and set the sheathing on fire.
Great Video!!! Any thoughts on running the zip R up to the bottom of the roof deck and sealing between the joists to keep the continuous air barrier (similar to what Matt and Scott True have done with their monopoly framing?) Would be tricky cutting Zip R to fit around I joists. But would eliminate the need to spray foam the inside of the blocking? Just wondering if you would still need a vapor retarder with the full air barrier and your Zehnder inside? Keep the great content coming!!
There have been several TH-cam videos where people have used a layer of spray foam followed by fiberglass batt insulation. Some have experienced condensation on the interior surface of the closed cell spray foam. In this video, I don't know what percentage of the R value is above and below the the spray foam/blown-in cellulose interface, but lets just say it is 50/50. If that is the case, if it is 20F degrees outside and 68F inside, a difference of 48F degrees, then the inside surface of the spray foam will be at 44F degrees. If the indoor relative humidity is at 50%, the dewpoint is at about 48F degrees. Since the spray foam surface is at 44F degrees, it is 4F degrees below the dewpoint, so condensation may occur. Because of this, they say it is best to put most of the insulation on the exterior in that kind of setup. I don't know what the R values are in this video, so I'm not saying there is a problem. If most of your insulation is the polyiso and spray foam, it is probaby not a problem. People don't always realize that the batt (or blown-in) insulation is also isolating your roof deck from the interior warmth but not the inside humidity.
The split here is more like 60/40 favoring the outside
Good Lord....it was brutal listening to the procedure being explained for EPDM installation! Hell I was in Local 33 out of Dorchester (roofers union) and we installed MILES of thee Carlisle/Goodyear any rubber ...the yellow glue is for substrate and the black for "rubber to rubber" seams that get rolled....What they are applying is a "screw and glue." I am of the opinion that it is the best waterproofing system available and I was doing this work in the early to mid 80's. Hell we did the Garden / MIT/ BC/ Harvard...let alone all the other private buildings and of course public buildings...just saying it was painful to hear these guys describe what is common place to me. I was raised in Southeastern Mass. and I sound like these guys....wicked Pissa!
While you get good description of the roof vent under metal portion of it, you missed part of roof vent exit. In addition, flat roof portion does not have roof vent at all - why so? is it code compliant?
What material is the 1x12 and 1x8 for the fascia on the flat roof section? PVC for durability? Just wood, trusting that the drip edge will protect it? Something else?
It is Acre
Curious about the long Std Seam Panels and designated Fixed Points…moderate slope 50’ length may be better mid point fix and expansion to eave/ridge detail…
What is the thinking behind not venting under the metal sheathing?
watched the whole thing at 1.75x hehe. i rewind for the things i don’t understand. everything looked great. only at the end did i wonder about those double stacked 2x4s. i’m wondering if the shadow board spacer is also there to give the 2x4s a path to dry out to. maybe would place 1 foot pieces with couple inches between each. lots of detail, so i’m probably overlooking something. fun to think about!
Why don't more people run plumbing vents out the side of a house under an overhang instead of cutting a hole in the roof? Cutting a bunch of holes in the roof just feels wrong, even if there are boots and other ways of sealing things up.
Agree with that. Around here we use 4.5" pipes, and only need 1 vent for the whole building. The vent must be above the roof though. Can go out through the wall but must end above the roof.
Easy walkable roof that WONT get walked on? Tell that to the kids 😆
#343👍👏Great! I have to replace a 25 year old built up tar flat roof. How?! What is the replacement? This is great for a new construction. ❤
Recommend you see you tube, the flat roof doctor, modified bitumen roof system. considered better than EDPM.
Yay. First thumbs up!👍
What is the length of the roofing screw that holds down the standing seam roof to the substrate? How many years do they warrant this type of roof? 👍
you can look up RCABC's guild lines for metal roofs. even if you arent in BC Canada, its a great guildline . (you might be warm climate, but fasters and details are largely the same). how much pen you want into the Substrate depends on screw being used and what you are screwing to
@@HerbaceousM8Thanks. It didn't look like a very long screw. I'm in Texas, Tornado alley. They have a fortified roof program that the insurance companies would give rebates on if the homeowner builds the roof to the fortified roof specifications. The length of the screw and the spacing is a part of it.
I couldn't tell but was the screw only going into the foam board ?
@@hodesto no, i think its 3/4" into the plywood, it might be a bit more if the screw is self tapping
Must be nice to have $$$$$ and sponsors
wow, very original with that. good one.
Now we know who taught Michael Jackson to moonwalk. Steve Bazcek is a man of a thousand talents.
Why would you cheap out on the epdm membrane? The proven industry standard is Firestone/Bridgestone.
its all the same stuff now a days, if it has the same warrantee its going to be fine. and dont touch the 40mil, at least use 60 or 80 if possible. Versico is actually a pretty common name, they have been around like 30 years
I want a flat roof, shaded and on the north side of the house, that I can put all the HVAC equiment on. Would have to figure out how to do it without penetrations though, maybe by running pipe into a virticle wall then down. Very interesting stuff.
Would a floor truss work? They have penetrations by design
@@HeroNinjaClan yeah, I'm assuming under that insulation and zip they have essentially a floor truss.
Pumicecrete is by far the best building material on the planet Pumicecrete is a mixture of pumice cement and water mixed and poured into a set of reusable forms walls are poured from 12"to 24" thick pumicecrete is fireproof termite proof rust rot and mold proof non toxic and has a high R value and good sound attenuation solid poured walls means no critters can live in your walls Pumicecrete can be built for a fraction of the cost and time and pumice is one of the few building materials that can go directly from the mine to the job site ready to use without any additional possessing and zero waste Google all the walls of my house are made of pumicecrete Take care Ray
It is so frustrating as a tradesman to stand around and let the architect explain how I do my job. Shut up and let the guy talk!
And always in a construction project in the Boston area, there's a guy named "Bawb".
Luckily this guy isn't named "Vila" and the only skill he has is to "bless" the project by patting it once it's done.
Yes, there’s ALWAY a blue collar dude named Bawb. Villa has/had a brother/cousin something who’s a home inspector. “Ah yaw, that they-ah is a wall.” Oh thank you for the heads-up, dude! WORST, worst, home inspector I’ve ever used. Didn’t even look at the roof properly, and there were huge problems “up they-ah.” How do talentless people become celebrities? Oh wait, who’s the guy on the show with Bob? Dave? I think it was Dave’s relative. “Oh never mind,” to quote Rosanna Danna. 😳🫢😬
Please they have land don’t put anything on the roof as far as solar goes. If I’m a betting man and I’m not they will have to remove that system in 10 years.
Really nice looking -- QUESTION -- Why do you have so many layers of waterproofing? If they actually work, who not lay all the required pieces down and make the last one the rubber/zip product that is waterproof? I saw Matt Ressinger do something similar on his build. However, I can't help but think that should any water make it past the top "waterproof" layer, then it will get stuck between one or more of these repeated waterproof layers ie it will never be able to escape. The problem with a "perfect seal" is that should it leak you now create a system with no exit points and the water will ping pong around forever. Why not simply do the wood sheathing, lay the insulation then do one single water proof layer and then the metal roof or tile. Done.
Logistics. The sheathing was sealed to protect the structure until the final roof surfaces could all be done at once.