Amiga A1200 Refurb
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ค. 2024
- Kindly sponsored by www.pcbway.com - PCBs and more from just $5. An "untested" Amiga 1200 (rev 1B). Let's get it cleaned up, recapped, and working. And then... is it a keeper? and if so, what to do with it?
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00:00 - Start
01:11 - Teardown
04:52 - Trying It Out
06:25 - PCBWay
07:13 - Cleaning
10:20 - VapourBrighting
11:54 - Recapping
16:36 - Fitting the new capacitors
20:41 - Trying the Recapped Board
22:59 - Retrobright Results
26:48 - Does It Still Work?
29:39 - Refit the Hard Drive
31:30 - Installing Workbench… Take 1
38:02 - … Take 359 …
41:00 - So Here’s What I Did - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![เปิดบ้านสุดหรู "เเจ็ค the ghost" ลั่นถ้าป๋องกพลลำบากผมเลี้ยงเอง!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1xbW4vULqGc/mqdefault.jpg)
Great vid , especially like the super triggering *let's rip the caps off the board* way of removing smd caps, hopefully next time you can snip a few too...... Nice repair and good to know the vapor retrobright works well....... Will keep an eye on the comments for the "cap police" to Jack in the box 😂
Push & twist! Push and twist! When it comes to cap removal someone will always think you're wrong no matter how you do it. 2 irons so far is my least favourite method!
@@TimsRetroCorner I have tried many methods too (never twisting cold like you did admittedly - but it worked). Interestingly I prefer the two irons method. Hot air I always worried just how long you need to put the board and surrounding components under heat and even with a load of flux I ended up supplementing it with some iron action anyway.
@@a120068020 I think hot air works better when the board is in good condition. If the joints are corroded from battery or cap juice, that's when they become hard to malt, and the risk of damage to the board & surrounding components goes up. I mostly limit hot air to getting big SMD ICs off (and freeing up some stubborn through hole parts), and even then it feels risky.
I really like your videos. So calm and well explained. The A1200 is one of my alltime fav computers. Allways a joy to see when one get some care.
Thanks :)
You handle that soldering iron like a true surgeon tim...It looks so easy ...thank you tim for another successful recovery.
Enjoyed that. A1200 is a great machine well done. I’m waiting for the comments from the capacitor replacement police lol 😂. Keep up the great work buddy
Yep, you'll upset someone no matter how you do it. Next time I'll try the "dentist" method, lol
Love your videos! especially the longer ones
Thanks, that's nice to hear - I always worry that they are "too" long.
@@TimsRetroCorner Everything north of 45+ is the best content.
Great video and a very nice refurbish process :) shame for the hard drive. Cheers!
I haven't binned it yet - maybe there's some setting I missed, or it'll work with a different build of the OS (or a better constructed install floppy). Plenty to try out :)
The amigados command "format" is in the c dir of the install disk and if you highlite the disk you want to format then you can go to the ikon menu on top and select format
Nice refurb Tim ... another one saved 😉
its funny that ... its made in the Philippines yet non of Commodore products have ever been seen or sold here...and yes I live in the Philippines ...
I think at the time of the A1200 release commodore were financially sinking and i would say it was probably cheaper to manufacture in the phillipines rather than in pennsylvania or germany...i am only guessing.
Hi Tim, great video as always, any reason why you didn't use the solder paste this time as you did for the 600 recap?
The 600 persuaded me that the solder paste is probably better suited to using hot air or an oven. Plus, the regular solder was to hand.
Did you set the MaxTransfer in HDToolbox?
No. According to Hyperion's FAQ, the default value is fine. And I haven't seen any problems or file corruptions up to this point.
Gonna use SponsorBlock on this one...
Shame you melted the plastics with your iron, otherwise nice retrobrighting.
Everyone concentrates on potential damage while removing SMD caps, but I think soldering on the new ones has a higher risk of collateral damage. But there was worse damage already in the RCA jacks, so I'm not too distraught!
I am surprised it has a GUI.
What?!?😂