Great vid , especially like the super triggering *let's rip the caps off the board* way of removing smd caps, hopefully next time you can snip a few too...... Nice repair and good to know the vapor retrobright works well....... Will keep an eye on the comments for the "cap police" to Jack in the box 😂
Push & twist! Push and twist! When it comes to cap removal someone will always think you're wrong no matter how you do it. 2 irons so far is my least favourite method!
@@TimsRetroCorner I have tried many methods too (never twisting cold like you did admittedly - but it worked). Interestingly I prefer the two irons method. Hot air I always worried just how long you need to put the board and surrounding components under heat and even with a load of flux I ended up supplementing it with some iron action anyway.
@@a120068020 I think hot air works better when the board is in good condition. If the joints are corroded from battery or cap juice, that's when they become hard to malt, and the risk of damage to the board & surrounding components goes up. I mostly limit hot air to getting big SMD ICs off (and freeing up some stubborn through hole parts), and even then it feels risky.
Enjoyed that. A1200 is a great machine well done. I’m waiting for the comments from the capacitor replacement police lol 😂. Keep up the great work buddy
The amigados command "format" is in the c dir of the install disk and if you highlite the disk you want to format then you can go to the ikon menu on top and select format
I haven't binned it yet - maybe there's some setting I missed, or it'll work with a different build of the OS (or a better constructed install floppy). Plenty to try out :)
Everyone concentrates on potential damage while removing SMD caps, but I think soldering on the new ones has a higher risk of collateral damage. But there was worse damage already in the RCA jacks, so I'm not too distraught!
I think at the time of the A1200 release commodore were financially sinking and i would say it was probably cheaper to manufacture in the phillipines rather than in pennsylvania or germany...i am only guessing.
I really like your videos. So calm and well explained. The A1200 is one of my alltime fav computers. Allways a joy to see when one get some care.
Thanks :)
Love your videos! especially the longer ones
Thanks, that's nice to hear - I always worry that they are "too" long.
@@TimsRetroCorner Everything north of 45+ is the best content.
Great vid , especially like the super triggering *let's rip the caps off the board* way of removing smd caps, hopefully next time you can snip a few too...... Nice repair and good to know the vapor retrobright works well....... Will keep an eye on the comments for the "cap police" to Jack in the box 😂
Push & twist! Push and twist! When it comes to cap removal someone will always think you're wrong no matter how you do it. 2 irons so far is my least favourite method!
@@TimsRetroCorner I have tried many methods too (never twisting cold like you did admittedly - but it worked). Interestingly I prefer the two irons method. Hot air I always worried just how long you need to put the board and surrounding components under heat and even with a load of flux I ended up supplementing it with some iron action anyway.
@@a120068020 I think hot air works better when the board is in good condition. If the joints are corroded from battery or cap juice, that's when they become hard to malt, and the risk of damage to the board & surrounding components goes up. I mostly limit hot air to getting big SMD ICs off (and freeing up some stubborn through hole parts), and even then it feels risky.
You handle that soldering iron like a true surgeon tim...It looks so easy ...thank you tim for another successful recovery.
Enjoyed that. A1200 is a great machine well done. I’m waiting for the comments from the capacitor replacement police lol 😂. Keep up the great work buddy
Yep, you'll upset someone no matter how you do it. Next time I'll try the "dentist" method, lol
Hi Tim, great video as always, any reason why you didn't use the solder paste this time as you did for the 600 recap?
The 600 persuaded me that the solder paste is probably better suited to using hot air or an oven. Plus, the regular solder was to hand.
The amigados command "format" is in the c dir of the install disk and if you highlite the disk you want to format then you can go to the ikon menu on top and select format
Lovely work.
Great video and a very nice refurbish process :) shame for the hard drive. Cheers!
I haven't binned it yet - maybe there's some setting I missed, or it'll work with a different build of the OS (or a better constructed install floppy). Plenty to try out :)
Did you set the MaxTransfer in HDToolbox?
No. According to Hyperion's FAQ, the default value is fine. And I haven't seen any problems or file corruptions up to this point.
Nice refurb Tim ... another one saved 😉
Shame you melted the plastics with your iron, otherwise nice retrobrighting.
Everyone concentrates on potential damage while removing SMD caps, but I think soldering on the new ones has a higher risk of collateral damage. But there was worse damage already in the RCA jacks, so I'm not too distraught!
Did you mix up capacitors C811 and C237 ? C811 should be 1000 uF 10V and C237 should be 470 uF 16V. You did the other way around.
I'll check next time I have it on the bench. Thanks.
its funny that ... its made in the Philippines yet non of Commodore products have ever been seen or sold here...and yes I live in the Philippines ...
I think at the time of the A1200 release commodore were financially sinking and i would say it was probably cheaper to manufacture in the phillipines rather than in pennsylvania or germany...i am only guessing.
Gonna use SponsorBlock on this one...
I am surprised it has a GUI.
What?!?😂