Jody, it is so awesome that he repeats himself as he does each step over and over, it makes learning so much more effective when it’s a constant reminder. I’m busy watching everything that’s going on and it really helps it stick in my head. He’s so matter of fact and friendly about how he says it that it never gets annoying. Great videos!
I am a better welder because of your videos! I was reviewing a couple of your early videos. Your teaching is ever better now and I think your aluminum welds look even better. I love your online store. The prices are right. The service is excellent and the bundles are helpful. Thank you!
Thanks for posting this tip Jody. THE #5 cup is a great IMPROVEMENT over #7 for Aluminum TIG with my "old school" AC//DC HI--FREQ add on TIG power supply.
Stumbled across your Channel. Great tips even for an old welder like myself. Sometimes you get into those situations where you're really not quite sure how you handle the job you're doing, excellent point of reference thanks
Tig welding in an art even on carbon steel! I've never welded on aluminum with it. I remember when I was just a kid in votech and our instructor talked about people doing it different. He actually used you as an example back in like 2006 or 7. Great job with all your hard work over the years. I can truly say I think you are an exceptional welder in My eyes. Keep it up you are always informative and try to help
I've been using a #8. Can't wait to try a 5. I thought it was just an issue of gas consumption. The HAZ looks quite different. Great video....... again
Probably because I focus on doing aluminum work, but I found this video the most educational of yours in quite a while. Any tips or procedures in your bag of tricks that might benefit older (I'm 70) TIG welders would be most welcome! Thanks
Jody, i use exactly the same cup set up using 3.2 tungsten, and a number 5 cup with a light balling, but im at 75- 145 as previously mentioned in another thread i wrote. For me these settings will weld anything from 2mm thick right up to 25mm thick with pre heat and 'hot'gas alushield and of course using a pedal. Buttons or trigger torches are hopeless for aluminium welding since you need to be able to back off the amps as you weld along a run.
One funky method I’ve seen for crater filling is to leave the rod in the puddle while you kill the arc (lift start) and then bend the rod untill it brakes and using a file to fix it. I’ve never used this method but it’s pretty neat.
I think this was your best aluminum video yet. Cant wait for the rest of that project...guess I'll figure out something more to order. I do love those #8 glass cups I just got, fragile but really light up the area when I use 140 Amps or there abouts.
@@softiss that was my deap sorrow - they say, we welders would not grow that old ... so I hope it´s just a flu ... and his jokes come back in a plenty soon as possible ...
Your pretty to watch Jody, I could watch you tig weld all day mate. Your sounding a bit crook mate get well soon. Great video very informative mate cheers.👍
Do you have a video that demonstrates failures with tig welding? I know you talk about failures, but sometimes its helpful to see the failure actually happen and what it looks like.
Honestly the Tig finger is one of the most important parts of my kit. If sombody asked if I’d rather carry spare clear lenses or a Tig finger id take the finger. Luckay I can Carry both
Hey Jody, can we talk about different aluminum filler? 4043 can be too soft for certain applications and 5356 too hard and prone to crack. 4047,5087, 5183? Is there a reasonable filler that covers almost everything other than rare stuff and cast? Machine and Fab shop
I love this video. You can tell you are about your business. You are very precise, you're on top of your game sir thank you for sharing the knowledge. 👍 👍. You are a gentleman and a scholar for sharing this type of information with the General Public. This is amazing to know. Myself personally I have a year 2000 GMC Safari van that I am attempting to create a roof rack system out of aircraft grade aluminum??? Your sharing of knowledge is put me on the right path thank you thank you thank you
Thank you very much for the video. I've seen a couple videos of tig welding aluminum using tig DC, for those of us who have machines without ac could you do a video welding aluminum using DC. I would really like to hear your thoughts on it if you haven't already. Thanks very much.
Hello Jody, thanks for another great video👊🏻 My question is about using #5 cup what size tungsten do you normally go with and were you using a 4043 filler rod? If so I always get the grainy look on the beads when using a 4043 rod vs a 5356. Thanks again👨🏭
I've been trying to figure out what is causing and more importantly, how to get rid of the grainy appearance in my welds with my Dynasty inverter machine as well. I can use my friend's Syncrowave transformer machine and the beads are smooth and shiny. I make all settings the same, use the same base metal, filler (4043), tungsten, cup, flow, etc. But on my Dynasty, I always get that grainy finish. It's frustrating. Is there a way to get rid of the grainy appearance or is this something that Dynasty owners just have to live with?
So on the dual flowmeter you sell you are supposed to read the top of the ball? Asking because i have one and I couldn’t find that info anywhere so if you know thats great.
Well done with nice thorough explanations as always 😁 I'd like to see one of theas Hurricanes done like a 6G (no movement of the part) ,to show/give more practical application tips . As this would simulate just about every condition that has slightly different technique. This would definitely be a test of skill... I can only hope to reach your level of skill with the TIG some day. MIG on mild steel I'm decent maby not perfect Hurricane fixed position, but it would be air tight and presentable. With asmuch practise and practical application time as you have and attention to detail, we all can be Jody someday
Hey Jody! @weldingtipsandtricks. What would you recommend for tungsten stickout with the #5 ally? On aluminum. Thanks! You have helped me so much being a newbie. Josh
So why did the number 5 penetrate more than the number 7 gas lens? Did the number 7 gas lens cool too much? Or is something else afoot? Love your videos by the way. By far the most informative and non biased welding channel I've found.
Hey Jody, love your videos. I’m new to welding and have been getting better with the mig gun but still burning holes with the tig. Most recently I’m trying to weld some patch panels in auto sheet metal about 1/16th thick. Even with the mig it’s not keeping a consistent arc with the mig and popping holes in the metal. Thinking maybe a ground issue. Any advice would be great! Thanks
While I know you're already busy as hell doing welding tutorials, you could easily do some tutorials on getting the best arc shots for other guys who do welding tutorials. At the risk of sounding like the theme song from an old James Bond movie, 'Nobody does it better'. :)
That like button it at 666 and I don't want to be the one to ruin it. But just know, I will like the video wants it changes. Also great video. love the series so far. Plz continue.
Awesome video Jody. I personally use a #4 #5 purely on the heat I need to weld with destroying my gas lenses. But even when I was on low amps I did notice the white film from the cleaning action Less apparent. Here in Australia I use a BOC 185 AC DC fairly certain it's CK unit. And have recently switched over to a 50/50 mix bottle of helium and argon. The only problems I have with the machine I use. Is the ac Ballance won't ball my tip up like shown. And lac of foot pedal. Any tips on how save my tungsten on a budget machine? Much love from down under really enjoy your content
i have the same welder. the welder is not CK (not sure who makes it) but they do come with a good CK torch. don't worry about balling tip so much. pedal is available, only curse is the pulse doesn't seam to work when you have the pedal plugged in.
I wish I had the eyesight resolution your camera has. Even with a magnifying lenses in my helmet I still can't see that accurate. Maybe that might be a subject to cover, how do you weld when you can't see stit?
I have used 280 amps with Jody's setup I bought from him on my Dynasty 280 DX with no issues....hope this helps, Paul 'Paulie' from that other welding channel....
I noticed that none of those butt joints were beveled enough to accept much filler. I'd be interested to know why you skipped this step in this project. I assume it's because of the service load (zero) and consequences of failure (none). Adding enough filler is easy in fillets, but how do you determine the minimum bevel on butt welds in 6061 (with 4043 filler) to 100% prevent hot cracking?
He explained it in the video............you can see the puddle drop and then he adds more. What he didn't elaborate on is that the bead has to be dropping down below the bottom surface of the tube. It sounds like the tube is relatively thin. He also states at one point that a speck of contamination floated up from the inside of the tube, which means he is assuming the bottom side of the tube is melting. His tests on the flat plate also demonstrated the amount of amperage needed to get full penetration, and then he showed how he fills the crater at the end to prevent cracking. Of course that all applies to this project. Now, on thicker tube, a bevel may be needed and it would be great for Jody to explain if there is a minimum wall thickness needed before he considers beveling the tube. It seems that he often does test pieces to determine what is needed, but it would be helpful to have some guidelines. I don't weld full time or do nearly as extensive jobs as I'm sure Jody does, so I would be interested in knowing more.
I agree with you on the puddle droop making room for more filler, but my underlying question remains. Lemme try to rephrase it in case Jody sees this: Starting with 6061 base metal, what percentage of the weld nugget needs to be 4043 filler to elevate the Si content enough to avoid hot cracking? It seem to me that this ratio would be at least 40% filler to 60% base, more or less, to reliably avoid hot cracking. I don't have a good feeling for puddle agitation from the AC arc, and how well it would mix the filler into the base, but I'm sure dwell time is a factor here too. Lots of process variables here, and I'm just fishing for a rule of thumb on one of them. On an unrelated topic: Hey, Jody, can you braze Titanium? I have a pile of Ti scissors with broken plastic handles, and I can't easily drill holes...😁
@@ralphwaters8905 I get it now, with the ratio of filler to base. Great question. Titanium shears with plastic handles in an interesting one. I sharpen scissors professionally, but haven't run across that one. Barber, beauty, animal, and medical shears are usually stainless or plain steel. What industry were those used in?
These are very common in office supply stores. The titanium blades are probably made in Russia (using the plants that used to fab plates for their fast attack subs) and make a great selling point. The handles are plastic, terrible and often break. One is left with a great blade in need of a handle! The last one I fixed, I had to clamp an aluminum handle to the Ti blade. It worked but was butt-ugly.
Are you guys using a drill or dedicated tungsten grinder to sharpen the short pieces? I use a dedicated bench grinder and a drill, but hand hold the longer pieces.
The amperage was the same but the argon flow was much less compared to the #7, maybe (not an expert on this) less gas flow cools down the aluminum less while welding thus penetrates easier at the same amperage.
Me too! However, $5,000 to $8,000 for the Dynasty 280 DX unit, depending on bells and whistles, is very much outrageously priced! I think that they are kept high priced on purpose. Yeah, one gets a great machine if bought new, but the price is too dear for just about anyone except those in business that can write it off and are using it all the time in order for it to pay for itself! Just gotta find a used model, in good condition, at auction, estate sale, fab shop closing it's doors, etc.
If there’s a will there’s a way. I have a 210 DX and then you’ll want a water cooler, then probably a new torch (CK Flex Loc?) and then certiflat table, clamps, fireball tools...it doesn’t end at the Dynasty it only begins. If you can weld, and enjoy doing so and make money - you’ll get it. But it’s only one tool of the whole arsenal.
BillyJoe JimBob lolll I know whatcha mean... I love my syncrowave.... but I deff am getting me a dynasty 280dx I truly don’t need it.. but for some reason I keep telling myself I do and I am a firm believer of “overkill” when getting tools... buy once cry once I guess... but some how I am very leery about inverter machines and their longevity... I guess there has to be a trade off somewhere right ?
Your videos alone are the reason I’ve pursued welding as a career, keep up the good work!
So good. No method snobbery or anything. I so wish had a palce to weld so I could get started learning.
Same here
Jody, it is so awesome that he repeats himself as he does each step over and over, it makes learning so much more effective when it’s a constant reminder. I’m busy watching everything that’s going on and it really helps it stick in my head. He’s so matter of fact and friendly about how he says it that it never gets annoying. Great videos!
Greetings from Austria 👋 i can watch these videos for hours. More of them plz.
I am a better welder because of your videos!
I was reviewing a couple of your early videos. Your teaching is ever better now and I think your aluminum welds look even better.
I love your online store. The prices are right. The service is excellent and the bundles are helpful. Thank you!
Thank you sir, for making great informative videos. Greetings from Germany. Tig welding is so much fun.
Thanks Jody. I take alot from your videos and the Podcast. G'day from Australia
Thanks for posting this tip Jody. THE #5 cup is a great IMPROVEMENT over #7 for Aluminum TIG with my "old school" AC//DC HI--FREQ add on TIG power supply.
Such a clear explanation and demonstration. Great camera work and narration. Thanks !
Stumbled across your Channel.
Great tips even for an old welder like myself. Sometimes you get into those situations where you're really not quite sure how you handle the job you're doing, excellent point of reference thanks
I just now found your Channel. It's 2019 June. 👍 so glad you took the time to make these videos thank you thank you thank you
Hi Jody would be good to see the difference in the standard 5 and gas lens 5 and a hello from Australia aswell
Tig welding in an art even on carbon steel! I've never welded on aluminum with it. I remember when I was just a kid in votech and our instructor talked about people doing it different. He actually used you as an example back in like 2006 or 7. Great job with all your hard work over the years. I can truly say I think you are an exceptional welder in
My eyes. Keep it up you are always informative and try to help
I've been using a #8. Can't wait to try a 5. I thought it was just an issue of gas consumption. The HAZ looks quite different. Great video....... again
Great vid as always! Sounds like you have a cold, feel better!
Probably because I focus on doing aluminum work, but I found this video the most educational of yours in quite a while. Any tips or procedures in your bag of tricks that might benefit older (I'm 70) TIG welders would be most welcome! Thanks
Спасибо за канал. И за то, что вам хватает терпения делиться знаниями со всеми нами.
Hey Jody cheers mate for all the good advice I’m currently doing my first year apprentice blocks and flying through, from Australia 🇦🇺👍🏻
Thank u Jody these videos really make my day
I honestly don't know if I could live without my Tig finger XL especially when welding aluminum.
#5 standard has been my aluminum to go ever since i started welding. Works for me, no need for a lense.
Nice job!
Great video. Always learn something from you
Jody, i use exactly the same cup set up using 3.2 tungsten, and a number 5 cup with a light balling, but im at 75- 145 as previously mentioned in another thread i wrote. For me these settings will weld anything from 2mm thick right up to 25mm thick with pre heat and 'hot'gas alushield and of course using a pedal. Buttons or trigger torches are hopeless for aluminium welding since you need to be able to back off the amps as you weld along a run.
It's a really piece of art! Good Job
You also made a great video today. Great.👍
Thank you Jody for the video. Get better soon! :)
One funky method I’ve seen for crater filling is to leave the rod in the puddle while you kill the arc (lift start) and then bend the rod untill it brakes and using a file to fix it. I’ve never used this method but it’s pretty neat.
I think this was your best aluminum video yet. Cant wait for the rest of that project...guess I'll figure out something more to order. I do love those #8 glass cups I just got, fragile but really light up the area when I use 140 Amps or there abouts.
When welding aluminum how much heat in the part is to much? Thanks for the videos, you have helped ME so very much being self taught on aluminum !
Fuzzy mushrooms 😂 perfect explanation, always loved your videos keep it up!
Great advice as always Jody
I didnt know smaller cup size penetrated more om aluminum, is there a technical explenation why this is? Interesting phenomenon!
And yet even more tig!!! It's not even my birthday today!!!
Instead of balling the tungsten, what would happen if you started with a flat on the end?
And another great video. Could i suggest a future video on cylinder head casting repair ?
Siempre el mejor explicando, gracias por tus lecciones, saludos desde España 👋
Jody, you sound a bit tired here, I hope everything is ok with you!?
Thank from Austria for theese marvelous shots!
hes just sick. i miss hes little jokes. about bubba and all that.
@@softiss that was my deap sorrow - they say, we welders would not grow that old ... so I hope it´s just a flu ... and his jokes come back in a plenty soon as possible ...
Amazing and exelent information
Jody
Jody you got a cold. Hope you get better. Thanks for the video.
Jody great stuff as always! I always learn something new. Thank you.
Your pretty to watch Jody, I could watch you tig weld all day mate. Your sounding a bit crook mate get well soon. Great video very informative mate cheers.👍
Excellent videos
Do you have a video that demonstrates failures with tig welding? I know you talk about failures, but sometimes its helpful to see the failure actually happen and what it looks like.
I don't think he could make a failing weld even if he tried.
He is that good.
Excellent video, thanks!
Great video Jody as always you the man!!! 👊🏻
Honestly the Tig finger is one of the most important parts of my kit. If sombody asked if I’d rather carry spare clear lenses or a Tig finger id take the finger. Luckay I can Carry both
Great video Jody 🤙🤙💎
another great lesson, thanks,,
Hey Jody, can we talk about different aluminum filler? 4043 can be too soft for certain applications and 5356 too hard and prone to crack. 4047,5087, 5183? Is there a reasonable filler that covers almost everything other than rare stuff and cast? Machine and Fab shop
Thanks Jody, Awesome!! Be blessed!!!
I love this video. You can tell you are about your business. You are very precise, you're on top of your game sir thank you for sharing the knowledge. 👍 👍. You are a gentleman and a scholar for sharing this type of information with the General Public. This is amazing to know. Myself personally I have a year 2000 GMC Safari van that I am attempting to create a roof rack system out of aircraft grade aluminum??? Your sharing of knowledge is put me on the right path thank you thank you thank you
Hello Jody which electrode are you using for this video? Thank you
Thank you very much for the video. I've seen a couple videos of tig welding aluminum using tig DC, for those of us who have machines without ac could you do a video welding aluminum using DC. I would really like to hear your thoughts on it if you haven't already. Thanks very much.
Always forget to mention it, but have you ever thought about a XXL tig finger for those of us with paws?
Nice video. Thanks, JB San Diego
Hello Jody, thanks for another great video👊🏻 My question is about using #5 cup what size tungsten do you normally go with and were you using a 4043 filler rod? If so I always get the grainy look on the beads when using a 4043 rod vs a 5356. Thanks again👨🏭
I've been trying to figure out what is causing and more importantly, how to get rid of the grainy appearance in my welds with my Dynasty inverter machine as well. I can use my friend's Syncrowave transformer machine and the beads are smooth and shiny. I make all settings the same, use the same base metal, filler (4043), tungsten, cup, flow, etc. But on my Dynasty, I always get that grainy finish. It's frustrating. Is there a way to get rid of the grainy appearance or is this something that Dynasty owners just have to live with?
So on the dual flowmeter you sell you are supposed to read the top of the ball? Asking because i have one and I couldn’t find that info anywhere so if you know thats great.
Well done with nice thorough explanations as always 😁
I'd like to see one of theas Hurricanes done like a 6G (no movement of the part) ,to show/give more practical application tips . As this would simulate just about every condition that has slightly different technique. This would definitely be a test of skill... I can only hope to reach your level of skill with the TIG some day. MIG on mild steel I'm decent maby not perfect Hurricane fixed position, but it would be air tight and presentable. With asmuch practise and practical application time as you have and attention to detail, we all can be Jody someday
Hey Jody! @weldingtipsandtricks. What would you recommend for tungsten stickout with the #5 ally? On aluminum. Thanks! You have helped me so much being a newbie.
Josh
damn. 15th. and after only one hour. You people are good.
So why did the number 5 penetrate more than the number 7 gas lens? Did the number 7 gas lens cool too much? Or is something else afoot? Love your videos by the way. By far the most informative and non biased welding channel I've found.
3:08
I do work in the Aerospace Industry
We clean ALOT on Our WPS is we use a lot of 50-50 mix gas
Is there a plan or drawing to make that wheel?
멋진내용입니다 점말 진심으로 감사합니다
Hey Jody, love your videos. I’m new to welding and have been getting better with the mig gun but still burning holes with the tig. Most recently I’m trying to weld some patch panels in auto sheet metal about 1/16th thick. Even with the mig it’s not keeping a consistent arc with the mig and popping holes in the metal. Thinking maybe a ground issue. Any advice would be great! Thanks
Thanks Jody
dear sur how have been feeling ? I pray your in good health
Number 6 is my go to cup size.
@3:52 that cleaning action starts out not as wide but by the end of the weld it's really wide. What's causing that is it heat in the job?
While I know you're already busy as hell doing welding tutorials, you could easily do some tutorials on getting the best arc shots for other guys who do welding tutorials.
At the risk of sounding like the theme song from an old James Bond movie, 'Nobody does it better'. :)
Jody, what happened to your voice.......great stuff as usual.....pb
That like button it at 666 and I don't want to be the one to ruin it. But just know, I will like the video wants it changes. Also great video. love the series so far. Plz continue.
Is using the top of the ball the correct way to read a flow meter? I guess I've always used the center of the ball as my reference point.
That is the correct way. However having a .5 CFU wont be noticeable unless the shop you work at is stingy on that lol
Ernesto Castellanos ....Thanks.
Awesome video Jody. I personally use a #4 #5 purely on the heat I need to weld with destroying my gas lenses. But even when I was on low amps I did notice the white film from the cleaning action Less apparent. Here in Australia I use a BOC 185 AC DC fairly certain it's CK unit. And have recently switched over to a 50/50 mix bottle of helium and argon.
The only problems I have with the machine I use. Is the ac Ballance won't ball my tip up like shown.
And lac of foot pedal.
Any tips on how save my tungsten on a budget machine?
Much love from down under really enjoy your content
i have the same welder. the welder is not CK (not sure who makes it) but they do come with a good CK torch. don't worry about balling tip so much. pedal is available, only curse is the pulse doesn't seam to work when you have the pedal plugged in.
I wish I had the eyesight resolution your camera has. Even with a magnifying lenses in my helmet I still can't see that accurate. Maybe that might be a subject to cover, how do you weld when you can't see stit?
Maybe your lens is to dark?
@@simonjupp4604 Na, my eyes are that bad.
Thank you sir
На каком станке пилите трубы ?
What’s the max amperage for that #5 set up
I have used 280 amps with Jody's setup I bought from him on my Dynasty 280 DX with no issues....hope this helps, Paul 'Paulie'
from that other welding channel....
I noticed that none of those butt joints were beveled enough to accept much filler. I'd be interested to know why you skipped this step in this project. I assume it's because of the service load (zero) and consequences of failure (none).
Adding enough filler is easy in fillets, but how do you determine the minimum bevel on butt welds in 6061 (with 4043 filler) to 100% prevent hot cracking?
He explained it in the video............you can see the puddle drop and then he adds more. What he didn't elaborate on is that the bead has to be dropping down below the bottom surface of the tube. It sounds like the tube is relatively thin. He also states at one point that a speck of contamination floated up from the inside of the tube, which means he is assuming the bottom side of the tube is melting. His tests on the flat plate also demonstrated the amount of amperage needed to get full penetration, and then he showed how he fills the crater at the end to prevent cracking. Of course that all applies to this project. Now, on thicker tube, a bevel may be needed and it would be great for Jody to explain if there is a minimum wall thickness needed before he considers beveling the tube. It seems that he often does test pieces to determine what is needed, but it would be helpful to have some guidelines. I don't weld full time or do nearly as extensive jobs as I'm sure Jody does, so I would be interested in knowing more.
I agree with you on the puddle droop making room for more filler, but my underlying question remains. Lemme try to rephrase it in case Jody sees this: Starting with 6061 base metal, what percentage of the weld nugget needs to be 4043 filler to elevate the Si content enough to avoid hot cracking? It seem to me that this ratio would be at least 40% filler to 60% base, more or less, to reliably avoid hot cracking. I don't have a good feeling for puddle agitation from the AC arc, and how well it would mix the filler into the base, but I'm sure dwell time is a factor here too. Lots of process variables here, and I'm just fishing for a rule of thumb on one of them.
On an unrelated topic: Hey, Jody, can you braze Titanium? I have a pile of Ti scissors with broken plastic handles, and I can't easily drill holes...😁
@@ralphwaters8905 I get it now, with the ratio of filler to base. Great question. Titanium shears with plastic handles in an interesting one. I sharpen scissors professionally, but haven't run across that one. Barber, beauty, animal, and medical shears are usually stainless or plain steel. What industry were those used in?
These are very common in office supply stores. The titanium blades are probably made in Russia (using the plants that used to fab plates for their fast attack subs) and make a great selling point. The handles are plastic, terrible and often break. One is left with a great blade in need of a handle! The last one I fixed, I had to clamp an aluminum handle to the Ti blade. It worked but was butt-ugly.
excelent
Sounds like you need a bit of gin, honey, lemon juice and hot water, this will make you feel a lot better.
How short can your tungsten be to use the short cap?
For me, a standard 7" Tungsten cut into 3 pieces about 2- 5/15" (48 / 49 mm) each, works for my Tweco short caps.
Are you guys using a drill or dedicated tungsten grinder to sharpen the short pieces? I use a dedicated bench grinder and a drill, but hand hold the longer pieces.
İnox İnce metal tig kaynağı çekin
Number 5 all day. Sick?
Should this be called the Crummy technique? Good informative video.
My new gloves are excellent 👌
Thanks for another great video! I'm still unsure of why the #5 standard cup penetrates more than a #7 gas lens at the same amperage-
The amperage was the same but the argon flow was much less compared to the #7, maybe (not an expert on this) less gas flow cools down the aluminum less while welding thus penetrates easier at the same amperage.
Why, do you need a ball on the end of the tungsten? Can't you just weld without it? 🤔
It will ball by itself if you just start welding. It wont be consistent untill there is an established ball though.
Ok Mr.jody you need to slow down with all this welding...your're causing me to buy more welding gear!
Tube aluminum hurricane. Tubalcain
👍
Get feeling better would you Jody!
I want job iam tig welder
wish i had a dynasty :(
Me too!
However, $5,000 to $8,000 for the Dynasty 280 DX unit, depending on bells and whistles, is very much outrageously priced! I think that they are kept high priced on purpose.
Yeah, one gets a great machine if bought new, but the price is too dear for just about anyone except those in business that can write it off and are using it all the time in order for it to pay for itself!
Just gotta find a used model, in good condition, at auction, estate sale, fab shop closing it's doors, etc.
If there’s a will there’s a way. I have a 210 DX and then you’ll want a water cooler, then probably a new torch (CK Flex Loc?) and then certiflat table, clamps, fireball tools...it doesn’t end at the Dynasty it only begins. If you can weld, and enjoy doing so and make money - you’ll get it. But it’s only one tool of the whole arsenal.
BillyJoe JimBob lolll I know whatcha mean... I love my syncrowave.... but I deff am getting me a dynasty 280dx I truly don’t need it.. but for some reason I keep telling myself I do and I am a firm believer of “overkill” when getting tools... buy once cry once I guess... but some how I am very leery about inverter machines and their longevity... I guess there has to be a trade off somewhere right ?
I guess they passed. Looks butchered really