Spot on Troy... I do like how you think on this. Wish I was there to give a hand, Kelly's cooking would be more than pay enough as you can testify. I made something for the one my brother got and it set him up in just a simple step on it to get lap siding as it is another way to get coverage and still kinda save wood. Best part was all pieces to do so come from his scrap pile. Keep em coming
1/4" clearance is just a little scary if the blade has a little waver, but anything less might not hold the cant!! $$$$$$double hard wood blades are no good on metal!! Thanks for taking the time to make the videos. I'm watching all the band mill videos I can because my son in law and I have a competitors mill coming in September. Want to learn all the little pit falls we can.👍🤟😜🤪 I'm coming from an old Frick circle mill back ground.
I thought you had a 9.5hp motor not the 14hp, the 14 twin electric start is an awesome upgrade! I have the 13 honda and have no issues with it ....but just turning the key to start is great and the twin has more torque, never a bad thing! Thanks for the videos, David in Cape Breton Nova Scotia...look it up! lol
Sorry , this is gonna be long to explain, But if you got extra long bolts. put them on like normal. Lock them down. Then put a few nuts back, but with a gap in the middle of the nuts. Instead of bolting on your holding piece of metal, you could have a slit cut in it, and slide it onto the bolts. Since it mostly receives force in 1 direction, it doesnt need to be strong along the other axis. 2 nuts on both sides, will stop it from coming loose during use. When you go to flatten a large log, you simply slide it back off. .You can also use different shapes and sizes for different size logs then. Sorry cant fabricate it for you. Currently trying to escape the great Hell that is NY
Wood Mizer has about 1 inch square stock for stops. Seems to prevent the wood crushing. Hence traveling to far. Perhaps an L shape, more surface against the cant. Your folding knife idea seems very doable.
Hey Troy I seen a somewhat similar suggestion but this may just be a more simple version. To your new tabs weld a 3/4 steel pipe collar drill a hole in the side and tap it for a set bolt with a wing nut to tighten and loosen. Then just use a length of 3/4 rebar for your upright. This makes it fully adjustable to any height or just drop it down out of way. You could even add a caster wheel at top of rebar this can aid and really help when turning larger logs by giving something for them to spin against. The rebar would be rigid enough to not bend but you could alway go with a piece aluminum pipe or a steel pipe if the weight of the rebar was an issue.
My friends hd36 does not have tabs, it just has one rail end to end I think. the dogs are a different style and much nicer. He has also custom made a wedge plate so he can mill small pieces down to 12 inches in length. Some what of a new viewer found you from your mill but love everything about your channel. Keep up the good work!
Idea - For each stop. 2 pieces similar to what you have, but with a 3 hole isosceles triangle pattern. A roll pin should fit tight into the 3rd hole. These pieces will be the bread of the sandwich. The rigid meat piece has 2 holes, but is 2" narrower (remove the 3rd hole section). The tall pivoting piece is thinner & has a long loose fitting slot that is at a slight angle. In the upright position, it will wedge itself between the pivot pin & the center meat. Make the slot longer than it needs to be, so when the pin wears down, the meat will still keep the stop square. The bottom of the slot will act as a hinge to allow the stop to fold below the work surface.
Thanks for this great idea! I have been pondering a solution for 30" wain coating logs I have for my Norwood lumber lite 26. I would think that a heavy duty dead bold mounted vertically would work well for that extra little bit you mentioned at the end for modification. I would love to see what you came up with my friend!
Hey Troy and fellow followers, any news on the release of version 2.0? Excited to know about the mod with the flip-up or any other cool features! Love your channel-it's super informative. By the way, anyone willing to share pictures of their 2.0 ideas?
I can see what you mean. My thoughts on the idea would be an arm that could swing up like you suggested only make the part that comes up out of wood. I made a bracket of 1inch and half squared metal, mounted vertical. Then and just cut some stock out of hardwood that would fit. If they get cut off I have lots of wood. Sometimes I just need a short post those can be reused.
my mill has dogs on each bunk both short cleats and adjustable ones. also bunks can slide anywhere I need them. it allows me to even be able to mill as sort as 10in long firewood rounds if i needed to. all my adjustable dogs are is basically one in tubing inside a bigger piece basically like a smaller trailer hitch but its just 2 bolts welded in a t to give you grip by hand and no tool needed and that bolt goes in a nut welded to outside tube so it becomes a set screw and the dog that goes up and down has a point to dig in the log so it don't slip. i cant remember if my sawmill video shows that but its very simple and you could basically weld that tube setup to the plate you bolted on your mill and make it cheap..... basically scraps of steel. same as the holding dogs. hard to explain but you could make some cheap that you could move from bunk to bunk easy. just went back to check and i did cover the dogs I mentioned above.... just excuse my videoing skills im not very good at running a camera phone as you'll see i had it in sideways node and a ramble trying to talk to a camera. i had done the video for grizz and my wife put it on our channel. th-cam.com/video/Kr0ZE63QtuI/w-d-xo.html
I would put the second piece of iron would have 1 elongated slot where it would rotate over the top bolt, and have a second open end slot that can slot over the bottom bolt. Thus when needed, the piece can be rotated vertical, then dropped down to lock on the bottom bolt.
Instead of an arm slot the bolt holes so you could raise piece up make the plate 12 inch long with 6 inch slot and weld handle on head of bolts to hand tighten loosen them .
Troy just go get a piece of unistrut and make it from that....And no the HD 36 does not come with the stops but with no surprise, you can buy them from them
Very nice set up you have there.So I notice your but cut is missing a 16" diagonal chunk..I'm from the west and timber fallers here don't do that.Mills won't allow it...I lived in the South for 5 yrs and people there do the same thing..So if you cut a tree down its an undercut first then a straight cut with a bit of a hinge so it won't kick back.This way you have all your wood log or lumber log ..Easy Peasy
I would think a piece of angle iron with a tab cut out of it bolted to the bottom bolt and could be pivoted to rest against the top bolt would serve your purpose. You would probably need to notch it where it rests against the upper bolt so that it could be straight vertical. You could use a flat piece of steel to serve the same purpose, but the angle iron would give you a flat surface and larger surface area to rest against the wood.
Cut 2 piece of tubing or pipe 1/2 in. Long that fits the bolts. Take a piece of flat metal and cut a slotted hole at one end slightly larger than the cut piece of tubing. Then bore a hole the same distance of the spacing of the mounting bolts spaced from the top of slotted hole. Then cut a open downward angled slot from the top hole. Install pieces with fender washers on the bolts ( use longer bolts if necessary) with the slotted hole on the bottom bolt. Object is to rotate bar up and slightly lift it up to drop and hook on the top bolt. Then when not in use rotate it down out of the way. Message me back if you want more details. Cost $0 to $10. Depending if you have materials in your scrap pile.
On my Cooks mill (mp32), the stays swing up parallel to the bed. There are tabs on each cross beam to hold the cants. The tabs and the stays are not parallel, the stays are set in, so when you swing them down, you push the cant away from you up against the tabs. The tabs dont aways make contact with every spot on the cant, if it has a little bark edge still on with a dip in. Thus, the more tabs the better. My biggest complaint about this setup is the swing up stays need to be adjusted from time to time otherwise they want to flop down. Its supposed to operate off the operator side via a bar you push down with your foot. This “feature” is pointless and Ive never used the foot arm- but I have clunked my shin on it about a hundred times.
My Thomas mill had a ..tooth welded on every bunk about 3/4 of an inch high. When you got a square cant you pulled the stakes and sawed down to that The mill would not go down low enuf to hit that. I replaced muy metal stakes with oak ones. So if you saw into them it doesnt matter. You never have enuf log holders to force the logs against the stakes. Those are worth adding too. Frontier Mill and Woodland look the same to me.I looked at both and Frontier was higher. Shipping was $1000 instead of $399. I dont think Norwood makes Frontier.
I am going to look around your mill but not at it. Your sawdust pile, if you had a few tractor buckets of screened topsoil by that sawdust. Then each day you cut lumber shovel loft a few garden shovels maybe 10 of that soil pile over the sawdust. I wouldn't use the tractor to add the soil layer as that is over kill! That would create a superior loam mix for your garden the next year or maybe the next season!
Myself would love to have a LT 15 wide but that ugly price tag just gets in the way. Plus the fact i am 62 now so realistic just how much use could I get to justify spending that much.
@Ken...I guess alot would depend on what your purposes would be...there is a channel Josaljo with an older gentleman that uses the fire out of his...woodmizer should give him one for the amount of videos he has done. As for the price tag with them I agree they are salty but when compared to today's lumber prices it might be something considered. I will have to admit I don't own a mill but one day I am going to and having discussions like this will help me but from what I have seen the woodmizer seems like a quality piece of equipment
@@jamiehicks8229 I am a long time subscriber of Joe he is a really nice guy and has a real knack for teaching and experience. I use to run a circle mill and had a commercial timber buisness. Now days I really don't have much need for a lot of lumber myself and not sure i have the physical ability to run a commercial operation. Spending that much just for something to tinker on, that's what I am wrestling with. I have 2 sons and a daughter but they have never been interested in that sort of thing. So getting and passing it on to the kids isn't likely either. They never understood it when I was in the buisness the long hours and hard work. But for me I loved running the equipment and cutting trees. A skill even retired I get called on occasion to come and cut a dangerous tree that no one else will touch. Oilfields and Timber is how I spent my life. First 20 years after school in the oilfields the rest in Timber.
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I bought a Woodland HM 126 mill and they have provided at each bunk a square holder for 1.5x1.5” steel dog.
Spot on Troy... I do like how you think on this. Wish I was there to give a hand, Kelly's cooking would be more than pay enough as you can testify. I made something for the one my brother got and it set him up in just a simple step on it to get lap siding as it is another way to get coverage and still kinda save wood. Best part was all pieces to do so come from his scrap pile. Keep em coming
Troy, I think Mr. Adair has a win win suggestion???
1/4" clearance is just a little scary if the blade has a little waver, but anything less might not hold the cant!! $$$$$$double hard wood blades are no good on metal!! Thanks for taking the time to make the videos. I'm watching all the band mill videos I can because my son in law and I have a competitors mill coming in September. Want to learn all the little pit falls we can.👍🤟😜🤪 I'm coming from an old Frick circle mill back ground.
Good Idea! We have Norwood Capstan winch and love it, Old Kubota sounds good! We had a L 3710 yrs ago! 🚜🪵👍🏼🇱🇷
Very helpful...thanks for posting.
I thought you had a 9.5hp motor not the 14hp, the 14 twin electric start is an awesome upgrade! I have the 13 honda and have no issues with it ....but just turning the key to start is great and the twin has more torque, never a bad thing! Thanks for the videos, David in Cape Breton Nova Scotia...look it up! lol
Smart hack thank you
Great idea. Depending on height in relation to blade variation, some people might want to be make theirs from plastic rather than metal
Just weld on a square tubing that u can drop in a smaller tubbing inside of it. Make a wing bolt to lock it at the hight u want.
Sorry , this is gonna be long to explain, But if you got extra long bolts. put them on like normal. Lock them down. Then put a few nuts back, but with a gap in the middle of the nuts. Instead of bolting on your holding piece of metal, you could have a slit cut in it, and slide it onto the bolts. Since it mostly receives force in 1 direction, it doesnt need to be strong along the other axis. 2 nuts on both sides, will stop it from coming loose during use. When you go to flatten a large log, you simply slide it back off. .You can also use different shapes and sizes for different size logs then. Sorry cant fabricate it for you. Currently trying to escape the great Hell that is NY
Wood Mizer has about 1 inch square stock for stops. Seems to prevent the wood crushing. Hence traveling to far. Perhaps an L shape, more surface against the cant. Your folding knife idea seems very doable.
Hey Troy I seen a somewhat similar suggestion but this may just be a more simple version. To your new tabs weld a 3/4 steel pipe collar drill a hole in the side and tap it for a set bolt with a wing nut to tighten and loosen. Then just use a length of 3/4 rebar for your upright. This makes it fully adjustable to any height or just drop it down out of way. You could even add a caster wheel at top of rebar this can aid and really help when turning larger logs by giving something for them to spin against. The rebar would be rigid enough to not bend but you could alway go with a piece aluminum pipe or a steel pipe if the weight of the rebar was an issue.
My friends hd36 does not have tabs, it just has one rail end to end I think. the dogs are a different style and much nicer. He has also custom made a wedge plate so he can mill small pieces down to 12 inches in length. Some what of a new viewer found you from your mill but love everything about your channel. Keep up the good work!
Idea - For each stop. 2 pieces similar to what you have, but with a 3 hole isosceles triangle pattern. A roll pin should fit tight into the 3rd hole. These pieces will be the bread of the sandwich. The rigid meat piece has 2 holes, but is 2" narrower (remove the 3rd hole section). The tall pivoting piece is thinner & has a long loose fitting slot that is at a slight angle. In the upright position, it will wedge itself between the pivot pin & the center meat. Make the slot longer than it needs to be, so when the pin wears down, the meat will still keep the stop square. The bottom of the slot will act as a hinge to allow the stop to fold below the work surface.
hD 36 does not have those but I'm going to install them now!
I have a lumbermate 2000. I think its a much heavier saw which is good if stationary and not so great if its not.
Thanks for this great idea! I have been pondering a solution for 30" wain coating logs I have for my Norwood lumber lite 26. I would think that a heavy duty dead bold mounted vertically would work well for that extra little bit you mentioned at the end for modification. I would love to see what you came up with my friend!
Hey Troy and fellow followers, any news on the release of version 2.0? Excited to know about the mod with the flip-up or any other cool features! Love your channel-it's super informative. By the way, anyone willing to share pictures of their 2.0 ideas?
Well done!
How about slotting a piece so that it will adjust infinitely up or down as needed?
I can see what you mean. My thoughts on the idea would be an arm that could swing up like you suggested only make the part that comes up out of wood. I made a bracket of 1inch and half squared metal, mounted vertical. Then and just cut some stock out of hardwood that would fit. If they get cut off I have lots of wood. Sometimes I just need a short post those can be reused.
my mill has dogs on each bunk both short cleats and adjustable ones. also bunks can slide anywhere I need them. it allows me to even be able to mill as sort as 10in long firewood rounds if i needed to. all my adjustable dogs are is basically one in tubing inside a bigger piece basically like a smaller trailer hitch but its just 2 bolts welded in a t to give you grip by hand and no tool needed and that bolt goes in a nut welded to outside tube so it becomes a set screw and the dog that goes up and down has a point to dig in the log so it don't slip. i cant remember if my sawmill video shows that but its very simple and you could basically weld that tube setup to the plate you bolted on your mill and make it cheap..... basically scraps of steel. same as the holding dogs. hard to explain but you could make some cheap that you could move from bunk to bunk easy.
just went back to check and i did cover the dogs I mentioned above.... just excuse my videoing skills im not very good at running a camera phone as you'll see i had it in sideways node and a ramble trying to talk to a camera. i had done the video for grizz and my wife put it on our channel.
th-cam.com/video/Kr0ZE63QtuI/w-d-xo.html
I would put the second piece of iron would have 1 elongated slot where it would rotate over the top bolt, and have a second open end slot that can slot over the bottom bolt. Thus when needed, the piece can be rotated vertical, then dropped down to lock on the bottom bolt.
Instead of an arm slot the bolt holes so you could raise piece up make the plate 12 inch long with 6 inch slot and weld handle on head of bolts to hand tighten loosen them .
Troy just go get a piece of unistrut and make it from that....And no the HD 36 does not come with the stops but with no surprise, you can buy them from them
Did your LM29 come with log rests every 2 feet or did you buy more than it came with? My LM29 only came with a log rest every 4 feet.
That worked goid.
Good video
Very nice set up you have there.So I notice your but cut is missing a 16" diagonal chunk..I'm from the west and timber fallers here don't do that.Mills won't allow it...I lived in the South for 5 yrs and people there do the same thing..So if you cut a tree down its an undercut first then a straight cut with a bit of a hinge so it won't kick back.This way you have all your wood log or lumber log ..Easy Peasy
I was thinking from the beginning , don’t put the bottom bolt in and instead put a pin so u come flip it up when u need larger and down when u don’t
Nice
I would think a piece of angle iron with a tab cut out of it bolted to the bottom bolt and could be pivoted to rest against the top bolt would serve your purpose. You would probably need to notch it where it rests against the upper bolt so that it could be straight vertical. You could use a flat piece of steel to serve the same purpose, but the angle iron would give you a flat surface and larger surface area to rest against the wood.
Hey Troy when will be able to finish your barn before it rots.???????
Maybe
@@RedToolHouse that is good.
Cut 2 piece of tubing or pipe 1/2 in. Long that fits the bolts. Take a piece of flat metal and cut a slotted hole at one end slightly larger than the cut piece of tubing. Then bore a hole the same distance of the spacing of the mounting bolts spaced from the top of slotted hole. Then cut a open downward angled slot from the top hole. Install pieces with fender washers on the bolts ( use longer bolts if necessary) with the slotted hole on the bottom bolt.
Object is to rotate bar up and slightly lift it up to drop and hook on the top bolt. Then when not in use rotate it down out of the way.
Message me back if you want more details. Cost $0 to $10. Depending if you have materials in your scrap pile.
On my Cooks mill (mp32), the stays swing up parallel to the bed. There are tabs on each cross beam to hold the cants. The tabs and the stays are not parallel, the stays are set in, so when you swing them down, you push the cant away from you up against the tabs. The tabs dont aways make contact with every spot on the cant, if it has a little bark edge still on with a dip in. Thus, the more tabs the better. My biggest complaint about this setup is the swing up stays need to be adjusted from time to time otherwise they want to flop down. Its supposed to operate off the operator side via a bar you push down with your foot. This “feature” is pointless and Ive never used the foot arm- but I have clunked my shin on it about a hundred times.
Ok Troy I think u have just as u explained go with it. just my 2 cents
Could just buy two more posts and brackets.
That's what I was wondering.
Could you use more tabs?
Vertical slots with wing nuts.
Any word on the bred sows?
My Thomas mill had a ..tooth welded on every bunk about 3/4 of an inch high. When you got a square cant you pulled the stakes and sawed down to that The mill would not go down low enuf to hit that. I replaced muy metal stakes with oak ones. So if you saw into them it doesnt matter. You never have enuf log holders to force the logs against the stakes. Those are worth adding too. Frontier Mill and Woodland look the same to me.I looked at both and Frontier was higher. Shipping was $1000 instead of $399. I dont think Norwood makes Frontier.
I am going to look around your mill but not at it.
Your sawdust pile, if you had a few tractor buckets of screened topsoil by that sawdust. Then each day you cut lumber shovel loft a few garden shovels maybe 10 of that soil pile over the sawdust. I wouldn't use the tractor to add the soil layer as that is over kill! That would create a superior loam mix for your garden the next year or maybe the next season!
Troy make you a man bun
I have to have some level of self respect 😁
Oh come on, share the dimensions!!
4 quarter is not 1 inch, its 1 1/8
4 quarter is 1 inch, 5/4 is one and a quarter and so on.
Dogs move to stop, stays hold to prevent movement...
Not that it means anything...
Would I be out of line by saying you should had gotten a woodmizer
i love my woodmizer, its been cutting wood since 1986
I like the woodmizer brand. This my second norwood and I have been happy with both. If price was not an issue I would order the LT45 with everything!
Myself would love to have a LT 15 wide but that ugly price tag just gets in the way. Plus the fact i am 62 now so realistic just how much use could I get to justify spending that much.
@Ken...I guess alot would depend on what your purposes would be...there is a channel Josaljo with an older gentleman that uses the fire out of his...woodmizer should give him one for the amount of videos he has done.
As for the price tag with them I agree they are salty but when compared to today's lumber prices it might be something considered. I will have to admit I don't own a mill but one day I am going to and having discussions like this will help me but from what I have seen the woodmizer seems like a quality piece of equipment
@@jamiehicks8229 I am a long time subscriber of Joe he is a really nice guy and has a real knack for teaching and experience. I use to run a circle mill and had a commercial timber buisness. Now days I really don't have much need for a lot of lumber myself and not sure i have the physical ability to run a commercial operation. Spending that much just for something to tinker on, that's what I am wrestling with. I have 2 sons and a daughter but they have never been interested in that sort of thing. So getting and passing it on to the kids isn't likely either. They never understood it when I was in the buisness the long hours and hard work. But for me I loved running the equipment and cutting trees. A skill even retired I get called on occasion to come and cut a dangerous tree that no one else will touch. Oilfields and Timber is how I spent my life. First 20 years after school in the oilfields the rest in Timber.
If you are looking for a poor mans stop, just put a piece of wood on it.