This is super helpful, even 5 years later! It might be worth noting (for someone) - on my new Giant (Liv) bike, there are 2 bolts, but one has a thumb screw at the top, basically under the saddle but at the top of the bracket - pretty difficult to get to. You cannot adjust that until the rear bolt has been loosened. It's kind of a PITA. So, if you get it all installed, and the nose is too high (or low), you have to fully loosen the rear bolt before you can adjust the front bolt to lower/raise the nose, then you go back and tighten the rear bolt. Test, and repeat if necessary. All that said, I was able to get my new Terry Liberator Race saddle on my Avail AR 1with the help of this video - thanks! Now just need to take it for a test ride to see if it's going to work for me. Great video - very helpful!
love your videos Clint but for the first time, I disagree with you. Greasing the saddle rails is asking for slippage in my opinion. More importantly though, the torque specs printed on parts, always refer to dry torque. ie. without lubricant. On average, torque should be reduced about 30% for wet torque so you'd be risking stretching your threads here. Furthermore, copper compound is designed to stop bolts etc seizing. Grease is for parts that move. Certain greases can actually make threads stick harder when they get water and dirt contamination. As I say, I love your videos but thought I'd add my 2c this time. Keep em coming!
+Gavin McDonnell thanks for the comment. When I was in BMX camp at 15 years old I remember A mechanic who told me to always put grease on threads. I've done it since and it has always worked well for me. That was many many moons ago. As far as slippage, I've never had a saddle slip, but I have had rails the creek. Whatever works for each of us!
i recently had a ks lev integra dropper post that developed a creak. Grease on the rails and contacts point fixed it. No slippage in 3 months. Kindshock actually recommends greasing their seatpost clamps.
That's good to note about the dry torque versus wet torque. I've taken to using a lite coat of dry condition lube on the rails and then wiping it all down after install.
Nice video. I've always found that placing a small piece of plywood on the saddle with a level and taking a measurement from the sitbone position to the stem is a great way to find your preferred position once the swap is made (I use sitbone position as saddles vary in length). It may need to be fine tuned, but you will likely be within a mm or 2 right out of the box. It might also be worth noting that the bike should be positioned perpendicular to the direction cars are parked in the garage as 99% of garages are sloped front to back and level left to right.
Also, could use a straight 2x4 or "straight edge" with a level on it to find a good spot to position the bike. Good call on the slab, Garages should be sloped towards the outside.
Or just use a 24" i-beam level? $8 at Lowe's and useful for all kinds of things around the house. No issues with slope if you do all this inside your house (usually...).
Do you have a single bolt video. I have seat with a single bolt configuration like you show at 1:00. I don't know how to reinstall my seat, it has so many parts that need to come back together. Help!
Good video. I recently purchased a new seat post with a shock in it. I like to set everything to the recommended torque specifications if that information is available.
Great video, was wondering why the tilt was adjusting in this way. (My other bikes all have one bolt) My front bolt just touches the bottom of the saddle, do i need to change it out for a shorter one? Its the one that came installed from manufacturer.
If it touches the bottom of the saddle you may want to get a shorter one. I would just keep an eye on it for a few rides and see if it's starting to press into the plastic. If not you may be okay, but if it does definitely change it out.
I just got a bike called the Polaris PO2402-1-MT 24" Unisex Ranger B.0 Full Suspension Mountain Bike I have assembled the whole bike but am very confused about the seat, I have the seat post inserted and have all the nuts tightened but the seat still moves around freely, there were no extra pieces in the box to hold it and would like some help
+A J MacDonald Jr yeah, the stock one hit a pressure point on me a few days ago. Painful. I'll talk more about it in my trance update but it didn't work for me.
I have a two-bolt (different style) and accidentally popped the top piece off. I can’t for the life of me figure out how to get it attached back on there. It has barrel nuts and bolts, and the bolt keeps hitting the top piece and stripping it. Help!
nice video but I wouldn't recommend putting grease on the saddle rails, very unprofessional could cause slippage making it slide out of a preferred position making it unstable uncomfortable and can turn into a hazard. just a thought.
Prastt There was nothing stamped on it. I have had the bolts that hold the saddle rails to the top of the seat post come loose on one occasion while I was on a long ride. I wasn't carrying any tools that day. I learned my lesson on that. I will consult with the bike shop to see if I can get the torque specifications.
+James McClellan (Mercuryan) it's not a big deal. Cleaning. It's about installation. If you remove both bolts it is harder to install the saddle with some seat post designs if you start with both boats removed. It's just a lot easier to do if you can keep them in.
its 2022 and I just used this guide to replace my seat (saddle). Great video!
This is super helpful, even 5 years later! It might be worth noting (for someone) - on my new Giant (Liv) bike, there are 2 bolts, but one has a thumb screw at the top, basically under the saddle but at the top of the bracket - pretty difficult to get to. You cannot adjust that until the rear bolt has been loosened. It's kind of a PITA. So, if you get it all installed, and the nose is too high (or low), you have to fully loosen the rear bolt before you can adjust the front bolt to lower/raise the nose, then you go back and tighten the rear bolt. Test, and repeat if necessary. All that said, I was able to get my new Terry Liberator Race saddle on my Avail AR 1with the help of this video - thanks! Now just need to take it for a test ride to see if it's going to work for me. Great video - very helpful!
love your videos Clint but for the first time, I disagree with you. Greasing the saddle rails is asking for slippage in my opinion. More importantly though, the torque specs printed on parts, always refer to dry torque. ie. without lubricant. On average, torque should be reduced about 30% for wet torque so you'd be risking stretching your threads here. Furthermore, copper compound is designed to stop bolts etc seizing. Grease is for parts that move. Certain greases can actually make threads stick harder when they get water and dirt contamination. As I say, I love your videos but thought I'd add my 2c this time. Keep em coming!
+Gavin McDonnell thanks for the comment. When I was in BMX camp at 15 years old I remember A mechanic who told me to always put grease on threads. I've done it since and it has always worked well for me. That was many many moons ago. As far as slippage, I've never had a saddle slip, but I have had rails the creek. Whatever works for each of us!
i recently had a ks lev integra dropper post that developed a creak. Grease on the rails and contacts point fixed it. No slippage in 3 months. Kindshock actually recommends greasing their seatpost clamps.
That's good to note about the dry torque versus wet torque. I've taken to using a lite coat of dry condition lube on the rails and then wiping it all down after install.
Thanks so much, Clint. after watching this video, I was able to swap out my saddle with no problem at all!
Great job on explaining what needs to happen to get the desired fit. Thank you.
Nice video. I've always found that placing a small piece of plywood on the saddle with a level and taking a measurement from the sitbone position to the stem is a great way to find your preferred position once the swap is made (I use sitbone position as saddles vary in length). It may need to be fine tuned, but you will likely be within a mm or 2 right out of the box. It might also be worth noting that the bike should be positioned perpendicular to the direction cars are parked in the garage as 99% of garages are sloped front to back and level left to right.
Also, could use a straight 2x4 or "straight edge" with a level on it to find a good spot to position the bike. Good call on the slab, Garages should be sloped towards the outside.
Or just use a 24" i-beam level? $8 at Lowe's and useful for all kinds of things around the house. No issues with slope if you do all this inside your house (usually...).
Great video Clint. Proved very helpful, especially the tip on how to level or give my saddle the required nose up or down attitude. Thx!
Very clear and helpful - thank you!
great video! exactly what i needed, thank you!
Do you have a single bolt video. I have seat with a single bolt configuration like you show at 1:00. I don't know how to reinstall my seat, it has so many parts that need to come back together. Help!
Thanks for the video helped a lot
For a single bolt saddle clamp, is it necessary to use a washer that is up against the bolt or does it depend on some other variable?
Good video. I recently purchased a new seat post with a shock in it. I like to set everything to the recommended torque specifications if that information is available.
David Branscome did your seatpost come with an installation guide of some sort? You can typically find the torque specs on it.
Great video, was wondering why the tilt was adjusting in this way. (My other bikes all have one bolt) My front bolt just touches the bottom of the saddle, do i need to change it out for a shorter one? Its the one that came installed from manufacturer.
If it touches the bottom of the saddle you may want to get a shorter one. I would just keep an eye on it for a few rides and see if it's starting to press into the plastic. If not you may be okay, but if it does definitely change it out.
I just got a bike called the Polaris PO2402-1-MT 24" Unisex Ranger B.0 Full Suspension Mountain Bike
I have assembled the whole bike but am very confused about the seat, I have the seat post inserted and have all the nuts tightened but the seat still moves around freely, there were no extra pieces in the box to hold it and would like some help
Thank you, really helpfull. GR
I need a metal frame for my seat but they don't sell it anywhere. I bent it when I crashed but I still love the seat.
thanks so mych for the video
The Trance 1 has a new seat! 😃
+A J MacDonald Jr yeah, the stock one hit a pressure point on me a few days ago. Painful. I'll talk more about it in my trance update but it didn't work for me.
my seat fell on the ground and it fell apart, I do not know how to put everything together again.
Very helpfull
Jim Flissinger and t
How about the one bolt configuration
Thumbs up!
I have a two-bolt (different style) and accidentally popped the top piece off. I can’t for the life of me figure out how to get it attached back on there. It has barrel nuts and bolts, and the bolt keeps hitting the top piece and stripping it. Help!
Make sure the seatpost is not backwards
Clint Gibbs thanks- I didn’t remove the seat post, just tried to loosen the saddle clamp and the whole top piece of the clamp came off.
nice video but I wouldn't recommend putting grease on the saddle rails, very unprofessional could cause slippage making it slide out of a preferred position making it unstable uncomfortable and can turn into a hazard. just a thought.
I've been putting grease on saddle rails for over 20 years and never had one slip. But that's just me. It does help prevent creaking.
twerk that bolt down Clint ;-)
Unfortunately, the seat post wasn't in any packaging but it was in new condition. I set the torque on the bolts to 9 Nm. That might be a little high.
if you look down next to the bolts, does it say anything? in mine it says 12nm... it's a Ritchey seat post.
Prastt
There was nothing stamped on it. I have had the bolts that hold the saddle rails to the top of the seat post come loose on one occasion while I was on a long ride. I wasn't carrying any tools that day. I learned my lesson on that. I will consult with the bike shop to see if I can get the torque specifications.
Good video, but I would use a whole lot less grease.
I use a saddle level app for keeping it straight
What's the big deal of pulling both bolts, especially if you're cleaning. Geez.
+James McClellan (Mercuryan) it's not a big deal. Cleaning. It's about installation. If you remove both bolts it is harder to install the saddle with some seat post designs if you start with both boats removed. It's just a lot easier to do if you can keep them in.
This wasn't helpful because it assumes the clamps are already on the seat post. It doesn't show *how* to install the clamps.