I cannot say this enough. It is very helpful that you explain what you are doing in great detail. It's expressed simply enough to understand without having to Google search for anything. Thank you.
Great video, most so called "rebuild videos" change the spark plug, clean the carburetor and call it a day. That's not rebuild, its rarely a tune up. One suggestion,... you take us through a 45 minute journey showing the job and at the end you give us two seconds (blink and you miss it) of a partial view of the finished product. Not smart, showcase it dude!, be proud of it!, pan out a bit so we can see the whole thing and slowly rotate the camera around it for a little bit, its the fitting end to a quality video.
I just started watching you work on these small pieces of equipment. Dude, you've got an eye for detail and patience. I also enjoy hearing the birds sing in the back ground.
I note a couple of things since I have rebuilt some small engines as well. First, the coil has electronic module so points and condenser is inop, second the cap on the starter clutch should be removed to clean and lubricate, third this engine doesn't have a cast iron sleeve meaning the cylinder is coated in teflon for wear protection, once you hone those walls that teflon is gone which greatly reduces the life of the engine, the piston was scared and were the rings replaced.
great video i enjoyed this its been a while since i touched a small engine few thangs i believe you could have done been better with this restoration i first notice there was alot rust and debris on internal part engine and thru out. after removing the debris you should have use a drill with wired brush to remove the rust and paint inside and out of the parts you did nt replace. i noticed how you painted the engine as a whole. if was me i would have painted each part seprate before putting back on. but i learned alot from this video in all the 14 years i messed with small engines you taught me alot in 46v mins lol so thank you
excellent,informative video. Will be looking through your videos for any 4 stroke briggs engines. Or was this one? You showed me the oil slinger would this be a 4 stroke? The engine I am going to rebuild is a 7 hp Briggs but quite a few years older. And curious what kind of paint you used. It looked amazing! thanks for the vid!
This engine is a 1982 (date code). The coil was converted to electronic ington. Not putting new rings in was a waste of time. Those air filter needs to be cleaned with hot soapy water then dry. Next put about a teaspoon of on one the filter, work it in.use a dry towel to get excessive out.
It’s_Robbie Time Definitely have to agree with you they are they are very well-built engines for the time they were bill I would say they are better built than the things that are made nowadays but definitely not very efficient for sure especially when it comes to admissions some of that stuff is not very omissions friendly especially the stuff that came out in the mid to late 70s. Which is sad that towards the late 70s around 78 every quality built product started to go downhill in quality and emissions
Did you oil the foam air filter before test running it? I've been working on B&S engines since I was old enough to read a service manual and hold wrench. Except for a select few newer engines and foam pre cleaners, the foam filters must be oiled with engine oil prior to use, excess wrung out of course. I'm sure you know this already so this may help guide someone else. Thanks for the very informative videos. I recently discovered your channel and have been enjoying watching them. Please keep them coming.
Thank you for this precise video, I bought a murray with a Bridge and Stratton 12.5 HP_2867071142E1. all parts look good at first sight, But I can't find any tolerances for the crankshaft valve clearance etc. do you have this information for me? I assume that otherwise I have to buy the workshop manual! thanks in advance
Several things I noticed that could've been done a bit better, but the only thing I'll comment on is the threads of all bolts needing to be torqued should have been cleaned prior to being reinstalled and torqued.
Excellent! Thank you. I'm not an internal engine guy (more shipboard and industrial steam turbines and electric motors). I've learned to use new bolts if possible. Is that reasonable for IC engines?
James Taylor Yes, that’s reasonable as long as the new bolts are stronger or just as strong as the factory bolts. If you’re building a car engine, I recommend ARP bolts. I’m not sure if ARP makes bolts for small engines or not though.
Oh man! I didnt see you use much assembly lube before putting that piston back in. itll be fine but it sounded like it was dragging a lil bit when you were rotating that crank... Im sure once it was filled with oil it was fine... just wanted to point that out mate
Ok. So I used the puller and got the blade adapter off. Now, do I remove the key in the crankshaft so I can remove the crankcase or the seal where the crankshaft goes through the case?
Marc Huerta These engines mowing grass, etc. need to run at a constant speed about 3500 rpm. When hitting deep grass, the governor adds throttle when the engines slows to maintain the rpm. The governor reduces throttle when not under load to prevent over reving. The governor uses centrifugal weights to maintain the throttle.
After watching the: "Rare 50 yr. Old Mini Mower Restoration" video a few weeks ago which caused me to subscribe, and to begin watching all your videos from oldest to newest, I haven't been disappointed with anything until this video. Not only was it a lot of time spent to 'not' see it run in the end, but there is no "7hp engine running" video as you stated [46.24]. I apologize in advance if it's as simple as me overlooking the video while trying to find it. :)
@@MachineryRestorer // No problem, I probably shouldn't have said anything to begin with. I appreciate your channel, and everything that I've learned in such a short period of time from your newer videos. Keep up the good work and *God bless.*
how come you have a magnotron coil and points system.. you could have cleaned the head studs how ever also did you oil the crank sharft where the flywheel is put on .
Not only that, but the valve guides. That was my problem last engine I did. The intake was so bad it was sucking oil up the valve guide and burning it. That's something else to keep in mind when working on these things.
Wall probably with the engine that you had the wire chewed almost all the way through someone opened it cleaned it out saw that problem and then you ended up with it
@@MOOGSTINE i have a 170452 7hp engine that id like to change its crankshaft, i need a kee way in the end and that one looks the same as i have on my engine but with a kee way...
Doesn't anyone measure the bore for out of round? Or Bore the Block? @33:00 cleaning with Hot soapy water is the best way to clean out left over honing grit... Any grit left over when cleaning with sprays, will cause premature engine wear.
You went that far into rebuilding the engine and you did not just change the piston rings Which could be a possibility of why it’s burning oil those rings definitely look worn out
You should have absolutely have checked the valve clearance and the ring end gap. Why would you go through all this work and not check/replace the rings or check the valve clearance?!
Taking a torque wrench to brake free bolts to see what the factory torqued them to doesn't really work...break awake torque will normaly be less then tightening torque so when say something is suppose is torqued to 50 foot lbs and u use the torque wrench and come up with 35 lbs....now when u reassemble you torque them to 35 foot lbs ...u are now 15 ft lbs below the recommended torque spec
@Gib Melson... the man is well spoken and easy to understand. A "billion people?" LMAO....obviously you speak "hick." Just another idiot key-board jockey.
What. A. Nice. Job. Of. Restoring. I. Like. The. Way. You. Took. It. Apart. And. Cleand. It. Inside. And. Out. Roger. St.
I cannot say this enough. It is very helpful that you explain what you are doing in great detail. It's expressed simply enough to understand without having to Google search for anything. Thank you.
Thank you for this precise video. Appreciate that you took the time to photograph and edit. Very useful
Hi, absolutely great job with fixing /restoring that briggs engine, keep up the great work
One of the best start-finish vids I've seen on a b&s engine. Much appreciated!
Paul Brosco Pleased you found it useful :)
Thank you very much for taking the time out of your busy life to produce such a fantastic video for the DIYer, who needs help.
Great video, most so called "rebuild videos" change the spark plug, clean the carburetor and call it a day. That's not rebuild, its rarely a tune up. One suggestion,... you take us through a 45 minute journey showing the job and at the end you give us two seconds (blink and you miss it) of a partial view of the finished product. Not smart, showcase it dude!, be proud of it!, pan out a bit so we can see the whole thing and slowly rotate the camera around it for a little bit, its the fitting end to a quality video.
Great instructional video. Well done my friend.
Cheers man! Excellent vid. very clear and informative. Thanks!
With this Video i can build up my old 8 hp Engine.
Super Work.
Now i understand the Regulator inside.
And what i must doe on the Valves.
Well put together video and well explained. I'ld have liked to see you start it up though!
I just started watching you work on these small pieces of equipment. Dude, you've got an eye for detail and patience. I also enjoy hearing the birds sing in the back ground.
Great instructional video! Thank you so much.
Insanely informative!
I note a couple of things since I have rebuilt some small engines as well. First, the coil has electronic module so points and condenser is inop, second the cap on the starter clutch should be removed to clean and lubricate, third this engine doesn't have a cast iron sleeve meaning the cylinder is coated in teflon for wear protection, once you hone those walls that teflon is gone which greatly reduces the life of the engine, the piston was scared and were the rings replaced.
Great video, thanks!
Really liked this video
You helped me fix mine! Thank you
GREAT VID!
great video i enjoyed this its been a while since i touched a small engine few thangs i believe you could have done been better with this restoration i first notice there was alot rust and debris on internal part engine and thru out. after removing the debris you should have use a drill with wired brush to remove the rust and paint inside and out of the parts you did nt replace. i noticed how you painted the engine as a whole. if was me i would have painted each part seprate before putting back on. but i learned alot from this video in all the 14 years i messed with small engines you taught me alot in 46v mins lol so thank you
Nice job I did enjoy this thanks
One thing I'm curious about. What's a good way to clean up those decals a bit? Also, do you know if there is any good places to get new ones? Thanks!
Before I put starter clutch on. I. Lube up end for noise free operation. Good video
excellent,informative video. Will be looking through your videos for any 4 stroke briggs engines. Or was this one? You showed me the oil slinger would this be a 4 stroke? The engine I am going to rebuild is a 7 hp Briggs but quite a few years older. And curious what kind of paint you used. It looked amazing! thanks for the vid!
This engine is a 1982 (date code). The coil was converted to electronic ington. Not putting new rings in was a waste of time. Those air filter needs to be cleaned with hot soapy water then dry. Next put about a teaspoon of on one the filter, work it in.use a dry towel to get excessive out.
love this video... im thinking about starting a small engine shop and you should diagnose a totally different b&s engine
That's a cool old 7 hp can't beat thoughs old cast iron bore engines
True they last forever only downside is that they aren’t particularly efficient
It’s_Robbie Time Definitely have to agree with you they are they are very well-built engines for the time they were bill I would say they are better built than the things that are made nowadays but definitely not very efficient for sure especially when it comes to admissions some of that stuff is not very omissions friendly especially the stuff that came out in the mid to late 70s. Which is sad that towards the late 70s around 78 every quality built product started to go downhill in quality and emissions
It’s_Robbie Time Got a love the emission smog Ford LTD Granada boat length cars
I just restored the same engine few months back, sadly the valves gave way so I lost compression but that’s a easy fix
Thanks for the video, where can I get that air filter sponge?
When putting the crankshaft back on at 35:00, are you using standard SAE 30 oil to lubricate the crankshaft before putting it back in?
Did you oil the foam air filter before test running it? I've been working on B&S engines since I was old enough to read a service manual and hold wrench. Except for a select few newer engines and foam pre cleaners, the foam filters must be oiled with engine oil prior to use, excess wrung out of course. I'm sure you know this already so this may help guide someone else.
Thanks for the very informative videos. I recently discovered your channel and have been enjoying watching them. Please keep them coming.
Thanks.
Thank you for this precise video, I bought a murray with a Bridge and Stratton 12.5 HP_2867071142E1.
all parts look good at first sight, But I can't find any tolerances for the crankshaft valve clearance etc.
do you have this information for me? I assume that otherwise I have to buy the workshop manual!
thanks in advance
Where do you get your gaskets and piston rebuild kits from?
where did u buy that gasket please
Every BLOBBS ! AND SCRAPPEN ! ENGINE ! IS A METAL SHREADDERS ! ENJOYMENT !
Several things I noticed that could've been done a bit better, but the only thing I'll comment on is the threads of all bolts needing to be torqued should have been cleaned prior to being reinstalled and torqued.
The dipper on the bottom of the connecting rod is upside down and backwards, hopefully you caught that
do you have to grind it
What is that little spring-loaded device that is on the small cam. What do they call it. So I can order it I have no name
You did mention the gap on the exhaust and intake l!
Excellent! Thank you.
I'm not an internal engine guy (more shipboard and industrial steam turbines and electric motors). I've learned to use new bolts if possible. Is that reasonable for IC engines?
James Taylor Yes, that’s reasonable as long as the new bolts are stronger or just as strong as the factory bolts. If you’re building a car engine, I recommend ARP bolts. I’m not sure if ARP makes bolts for small engines or not though.
@@jonathankeith524 Thank you. I'll research that.
Steam turbines!! Oh man... love that stuff brother. Gas turbines, any kind really.
*you are one of us!*
My engine does not have to synchronize the Brands para valve timing I do?
Oh man! I didnt see you use much assembly lube before putting that piston back in. itll be fine but it sounded like it was dragging a lil bit when you were rotating that crank... Im sure once it was filled with oil it was fine... just wanted to point that out mate
Ok. So I used the puller and got the blade adapter off. Now, do I remove the key in the crankshaft so I can remove the crankcase or the seal where the crankshaft goes through the case?
+billy3287480 You will need to remove the keyway but not the seal.
+Machinery Restorer thanks!!
+Machinery Restorer you sound just like daggerwin are you related
I may be wrong but aren't you daggerwin
I'm working on a 1992 B&S Classic. The blade adapter is rusted on and will not budge. Any tips on how to get this off?
+billy3287480 I always use a puller and WD-40. A two leg puller is best. You can usually buy them for around £10 if you don't have one.
+Machinery Restorer thanks. That's what I was thinking. I'll go pick one up.
What does the governor do? Same as a car? Can we take it off and keep the motor going?
Marc Huerta These engines mowing grass, etc. need to run at a constant speed about 3500 rpm. When hitting deep grass, the governor adds throttle when the engines slows to maintain the rpm. The governor reduces throttle when not under load to prevent over reving. The governor uses centrifugal weights to maintain the throttle.
Lot's of birds there. Better than music. Must be spring!
Or a sound track. Lol
Always line that in England because of the mild climate
what engine is this specificly?
After watching the: "Rare 50 yr. Old Mini Mower Restoration" video a few weeks ago which caused me to subscribe, and to begin watching all your videos from oldest to newest, I haven't been disappointed with anything until this video. Not only was it a lot of time spent to 'not' see it run in the end, but there is no "7hp engine running" video as you stated [46.24]. I apologize in advance if it's as simple as me overlooking the video while trying to find it. :)
this is a very old video, it’s not worth watching
@@MachineryRestorer // No problem, I probably shouldn't have said anything to begin with. I appreciate your channel, and everything that I've learned in such a short period of time from your newer videos. Keep up the good work and *God bless.*
how come you have a magnotron coil and points system.. you could have cleaned the head studs how ever also did you oil the crank sharft where the flywheel is put on .
Where do you find a manual for all of the torques and clearances?
+billy3287480 Here you go ;) www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/Engine%20Specifications%20Chart_ms3992.pdf
+Machinery Restorer thanks. I'm learning a lot from you.
+Machinery Restorer Thanks!! I'm learning a lot from you!!
What was the choke linkage attached to on the left side
That was the oil slinger
my bad it was the carb
why didnt you check valve clearance?
Not only that, but the valve guides. That was my problem last engine I did. The intake was so bad it was sucking oil up the valve guide and burning it. That's something else to keep in mind when working on these things.
I have this engine on a 72 plated code,on a Masport monarch 660 rider,three wheeler
I need this video
Wall probably with the engine that you had the wire chewed almost all the way through someone opened it cleaned it out saw that problem and then you ended up with it
Have you heard of a ratchet and sockets?. Word is they help take bolts off alot faster lol. A cordless ratchet is the best thing lol
What up Daggerwin
Does anybody know what crankshaft is that? Any info would halp
It depends on your model of brigs and Stratton, call their 1800 customer service number
@@MOOGSTINE i have a 170452 7hp engine that id like to change its crankshaft, i need a kee way in the end and that one looks the same as i have on my engine but with a kee way...
Why are the videos of the finished product private? Unreal.
Did you hone the Cylinder Bore ???
Joni English .
Joni English vbb>ñ>bbb)
Want to know four stroke rebuild
check out my briggs ohv rebuild
Where is your air wrench?
Doesn't anyone measure the bore for out of round? Or Bore the Block? @33:00 cleaning with Hot soapy water is the best way to clean out left over honing grit... Any grit left over when cleaning with sprays, will cause premature engine wear.
surprised there are no bearings on the crank shaft and piston rod.
You went that far into rebuilding the engine and you did not just change the piston rings Which could be a possibility of why it’s burning oil those rings definitely look worn out
spanner (uk) or wrench(us)? which is the better word?
Spanner
Tool (everyone)
Nut rounder. 😉
If you had a few air or battery tools this video could be shortened considerably. Dead air while you back a long bolt or screw out.
Kens small engines. He mentioned u several times on his live video Check him out Kens small engines. Live video every Sunday morning @8am eastern time
Nice. Do you have the timestamps?
You should have absolutely have checked the valve clearance and the ring end gap. Why would you go through all this work and not check/replace the rings or check the valve clearance?!
This video is so old! Check out my new ones...I was still learning at that point
Don't see 7hp briggs too often
Should've cleaned the parts and polished the metal with a wire wheel.
Where is the part 2 for fucksake
Great video, but start it up next time! :)
Taking a torque wrench to brake free bolts to see what the factory torqued them to doesn't really work...break awake torque will normaly be less then tightening torque so when say something is suppose is torqued to 50 foot lbs and u use the torque wrench and come up with 35 lbs....now when u reassemble you torque them to 35 foot lbs ...u are now 15 ft lbs below the recommended torque spec
You didn't crank it? How disappointing!
Nice Video but u Talk to much
Wow, talk about a misleading title.
Parle trop
billion people do not understand your language. don t speak so much, show us only your genius work...
@Gib Melson... the man is well spoken and easy to understand. A "billion people?" LMAO....obviously you speak "hick." Just another idiot key-board jockey.
I prefer when he doesn’t talk at all
A Rebuild should be everything taken apart, all gaskets replaced etc. Not a great video.
Wow no video of it running
Please don’t post to see it running then nowhere to be found
Will not subscribe to this site very very poor display
scandaleux!!!! arnaque de première