I have a 2014 Road King. There was an easy modification I did to mimic your results. My oil level is 1/2 full (on the stand) and has no bubbles in it any more. Thanks for taking the time to make that video. Very helpful.
My 98 FLSTF has the same issue just not as bad as my two twin cams had. I sold both twin cams I'm down to my 72 FLH and the 98 Fatboyno more computerized bikes for me.
I’m using the S&S crankcase breather valve in my 2005 Roadking and haven’t had blow by issues. 95ci with 9.8 compression. Installation was done at 22k miles when gear drive and Andrews cams were installed. Currently at 48k miles with no problems.
@@youtubesuckme This is a reed type valve installed in the oil pump cavity to keep pressure regulated in the engine. The pressure doesn’t build up and overload the rocker boxes with oil which is what causes the oil carryover into the air cleaner.
I'm going to say this as an engine builder if the engines puking oil you can use a oil catch can first thing I would do is a leak down test if the Rings are more than 10% 15% then you got to look at the Rings not sealing or the end caps too big how much lost compression is too much lost compression and a cure would be total seal rings likely rehone the cylinders and while you're at it make sure the valve guides in good shape you can make a leak down tester or you can buy when they're not that much money anymore you can even run a tube from the oil catch just so The Unburned hydrocarbons could be burning up and not the oil going into intake
On my 2014 103 street glide I run on the low side of my dipstick about 1/3 up. Runs better this way. Never have an issue with oil in my intake. I also run a fueling vented dipstick. I don’t let Harley do my oil changes anymore. Fired them years ago I handle that myself. Harley just drains and throws 4 quarts in the crank case and a new filter And they send you on your way. My oil level was at the top of the dipstick past the fill mark every time they did it no matter which mechanic did it. Regarding oil in your intake. If was still having an issue after doing all I did I would just run a DK catch can.
I have been told by many and the dealer, when checking the oil on the stick there is a lower level line and a full line. only fill to just a little above the low line should eliminate the puking of oil.
My Fix? I run 1/2 quart LESS than Harley recommends at oil change time. Four quarts + filter total per oil change-Problem solved! Worked on both my M-8's and one Twin Cam model.
Buy rubber plugs to fill the holes and run the hoses into a catch can. After thousands of miles oil will fill the can. This set up you have made probably works but as the lines get oil in them it will get sucked back in your motor or just make a mess. Will work if you keep it clean or dont ride much.
I did the same thing on my 2010 dyna, though I ran the tubes off the vent bolts and T'ed them together under the filter, dropped thru the breather box about 2" and put one lawn mower fuel filter on it. The air exhausting is positive but Ive yet to see any oil at all. Works great.
The oil tank level in a dry sump system has nothing to do with the inferior oil checks in the head. I also agree with Gary Chandler's post. It would be wise to just use oil rated rubber hose to a catch can.
An easy thing to remember is that there is a quart more oil in your engine than you think - when the engine is running the oil is distrubuted all around the engine and it drains down into the crankcase and camchest. It is then pumped back to the oil tank. When the engine is static that oil just collects in the bottom of the engine and stays there, so when you check how much is in the tank just remember there is still a quart in the engine itself and STOP OVERFILLING THE OIL TANK !!!!! When you check the oil level on a cold bike and it is on the stand, never fill it above a quarter the way between 'add oil' and 'full' marks - there is oil in the engine, it all expands when it is hot AND when you ride the bike it is upright, not on the stand. A 'quater-full' oil tank on the stand and cold is half full when you stand the bike upright, and over three-quarters when both hot and upright !
On my Evo I pull the return oil line when changing oil and watch the old oil coming our until I see the new oil. I shut off the bike reattach the oil line and top off the tank. That gets all the old oil out of the motor.
@@ronrobertson59 That's the easy and cheaper way to go ! I think Evo and Twin Cams are almost the same - Evo's filter the oil before it goes back to the tank and twin Cams filter it before it goes through the engine, but otherwise it's the same. The 'Scavenger' total oil change thing from Rogue Chopper is good because it lets you change the oil without putting new oil through a used filter and/or stop you running the last of the old oil that's still in the line from the tank (on a Twin Cam) before the oil pump (or in the sump for the Evo) through the new filter and 'contaminating' it. It would've been easier if there had been a sump plate of some sort like the old Brit bikes had but you still couldn't get any oil collected in the camchest out ! If you check out the 'Maximum Oil Level' markings on old Brits, it always seems to be rather low down - so as to allow the oil that collects in the bottom of a static engine somewhere to go without over-filling the oil tank when the engine is first started ...... simple really !
100% I run my dipstick 1/3 up When I do an oil change on my 14’ 103 I do 3 quarts and that’s it. Everyone I know overfills. I never have an issue with oil coming out of my intake. I also run a fueling vented dipstick
@@ronrobertson59 you should take the motor apart every oil change and clean the bearings of oil and the rods and cams. Relive everything with assembly lube. That's the proper way to change oil
Being only a half pressurized system meaning the flapper valve is closed as much as it's open it will not push aerated oil in the direction opposing gravity. There's a reason on the Harley factory system that it is horizontal or down at all times... What you'll end up with in your system is vaporized oil sludge pooling in the lower sections of the lines which will eventually clog the lines. It has to go down or horizontal from the head bolt on or it won't work in the long run.
I was curious how this modification working out for your motorcycle? I’m interested in doing something similar but I’m real hesitant on modifying the back of my stock air cleaner. This is why I’m intrigued with your modification. Instead of running 2 lines I’m going to run a 2 into 1 system and have it cool and dump into one tube and lawnmower fuel filter like you did.
It’s like a pvc valve for pollution, the vent in the head does gum up but the crankcase has to breathe if oil gets in the tube it should still blow out .. I did the std mod on my evo and ran it to the ground like all previous HD’s. At medium to high rpm Oil is pumped to the rockers via push rods. And runs back down the tubes to exit the heads. OR excessive blow by ( worn rings ) or oil pump not evacuating the crankcase.
Absolutely right I didn’t mention it in the video but I like keeping the stock look as opposed to exposed hoses and finding a place to mount a catch can etc
Common symptom of sumping, either from excessive crank run out or beat up oil pump which can be caused by the very common crank run out. This could make it worse in the long run by increasing built up pressure needed to expell the crank pressure.
I wonder how much it rattles inside the air cleaner.water vapour means you aren’t doing long enough rides to disperse the condensation inside the cases .
Good video, that's one way to address the problem. I'd like to know what the device is that looks to be attached to the rear rocker cover with the line coming off it, and where that line goes? Thanks.
Thanks for posting, just bought DK customs catch can and banjo bolts with fittings, works great however the hole on the banjo bolt does not line up with the hole on the fitting?? I think they sent me the wrong damn fittings!!!! Theres just no customer service now a days plus they forgot to send the damn fittings !!!!!!
Did you make a vid with a newer bike or one of your fan base get a code? Might need a little guidance on how to close the loop. Does that mean eliminating the cooling system you just installed?
So, it's worth it to do this if we don't have money for the repair or just a thing harley users do eventually because the parts are just hard to get?? Also... Would it be possible to get a one way valve and use that instead of those fuel filters?
Oil level should be dead center of the dip stick. When checking oil level make sure the bike is sitting exactly level. You must pay very close attention to that. The oil in the air cleaner will immediately go away.
@@cj8172 it does a little. I run say 80 on the highway and oil doesn't run out on the engine. It's not a complete fix but it does more like it was designed to.
Check oil after a 20 minute ride. Don't let it idle n think that's operating temp. It must be ridden. Check out John Maxwell video on oil. You can drain oil into a measured container to see how much oil is in tank but it could be overfilled. If it's correct then refill with same amount or purge the whole system . Delboys Garage has a video on purging.
I have a 103. Running into a oil catch bottle and then back into the back of the filter. My theory is the bottle works like a sediment bowl like on a old fuel system. Air returns to the engine without the oil. Most of the oil stays in the bottle. However it needs to be checked so I doesn’t overflow and make a mess. I haven’t tried it yet just waiting for the snow to go away 🥺
I did this a couple weeks ago and I'm gettin' better gas mileage ...however, it sounds like it's running a little rough or dry? So, i'm thinking on what you said about "air temp" in the breather ( i ran my hose straight to the ground! )
As a theory, the oil level argument seems unlikely. On the dip stick, a level change from 1/4 to 1/2 would equate to 250ml (?). But then spread that out over the surface are of the oil pan and that changes the depth 1/16in (?). Then add in oil movement while the bike is moving, and I don't see how that can make a difference. Therefore, oil level is not a factor in my eyes. The discussion should be around how the oil gets into the head area in the first place, which is why it requires draining. Otherwise, I really like the method you created.
This was a definite improvement, I find the motor had better response, it use to stall on me once in a while like it was needing air The test continues
@@MrTheDays1 I liked it but found some oil fumes where still present in the air box so , modified the hoses with black gas lines , omited the add on filters, and ran the hose to the frame with zip tyes , Ill post pictures when i can .
You or at least I would think that as much as a Harley costs you wouldn’t have to modify anything. You don’t have to modify Cadillac or Lincoln when you buy them.
@@fladave99 agree whole heartedly, it seems like every person who spends outrageous amounts of money on a Harley wind up spending $2000-$3000 more through Harley or aftermarket sales to make it right. Spending that much it better BE right and STAY right for a long time.
@@robertpulliam9973 I seriously looked at Harleys for around $5,000 all they had was leaky underpowered bikes with no brakes and 50k miles..For $5,000 I got a high tech ST 1300 Honda with 5,500 miles, 120 hp, dual disk brakes, smooth running machine that wont need a dime for another 100K miles.As far as Harleys attracting girls, all the girls I see around Harleys need a DENTIST and a clean T-shirt, not a ride on a Harley.
The TC has sumping problems due to out of round cranks, bad oil pumps and wear on cam plates. All this does is bandaid a problem. You are sumping to much oil
This is the way I plan on doing it on my M8 motor. Do you think it needs to be routed back into the intake to pull the oil and moisture easier? What was your conclusion on this?
Good question I was not concerned about intake pull because it’s eliminated. To answer your question more directly, Blow by (combustion gases getting past piston rings) creates a positive pressure in the crankcase which is a pushing effect on the same vapors.
Sir, What you have here done is self defeating!.. As you said steam/ water vapor, bad air and oil comming out your breather ports.. ( Which in reality is sludge) Why in the hell are you still keeping it in the air box??? You need to tee your clear lines and run them the heck out of the air box out and away from the intake period!!!!. Now either use a catch can or run the hose out on the ground.. Which i could give a crap about since more cars and semi trucks dump more fuel and oil on the roads for the last 100 years than i ever could.. I digress.. Next, all your doing is still recycling all the above steam/water vapor, bad air and oil (sludge) back into your engine via through your air cleaner now plugging that up faster!.. Last your clear hoses are routed back upwards instead of draining down and also not utilizing gravity!. So if you get a lot of oil comming out, it will fill the bottom loop of your hoses creating a block or partial plug that the more/ additional expended steam/water vapor, bad air and oil (Sludge) that keeps on comming, must over come or to push through to try to vent!. Thus Backing up your breather system!!. Basically you've made a reservoir at the bottom of those hoses.. So as the crankcase pressure builds up high enough, It will blow/puke a big built up blob of all that crap all over the top of your air cleaner then start to choke the engine of air!.
I know this is an older vid. I did this exact setup with a crank vent. And I’m still getting oil everywhere, I’m at wits end my lines filled at the low sec with just a 40mile ride. Did this clear your trouble??
I seriously looked at Harleys for around $5,000 all they had was leaky underpowered bikes with no brakes and 50k miles..For $5,000 I got a high tech ST 1300 Honda with 5,500 miles, 120 hp, dual disk brakes, smooth running machine that wont need a dime for another 100K miles.As far as Harleys attracting girls, all the girls I see around Harleys need a DENTIST and a clean T-shirt, not a ride on a Harley.
That's the whole point. Oil vapor converts back to liquid in the lines.Just don't ignore it.Check it once in a while and clean or replace lines I'm around 1400 miles and haven't had to drain it yet. No matter what kit you buy you have to check it empty it etc
What are those white plastic vent looking things? DK Customs has products that expel the vapors from the head breather bolts. And use a catch can as someone previous suggested. Still you don't Mention the white plastic things and where did you get them?
He clearly stated they were small engine fuel filters. I'm guessing you only looked at the pictures or never even finished watching before you felt you had to spew your ignorance.
@@americanland878 maybe you are not ignorant. Maybe you just lack the skills to absorb and retain information. You need not worry just go back and watch the video. I'll be self medicating at my leisure.
TWO major problems here,1) you are recommending an untested system that most likely won't work. 2) You TAPED the cleaner plate holes on a fuel/oil saturated system? Good luck with all the dirt you're gonna suck in when that tape fails.
So many fixes for stock harleys, seems stupid to buy expensive bike that has changed so little over the decades that still has so many factory flaws. Somple gix is buy a well engineered bike to start with, so buy japanese and avoid spending time and money fixing factory flawed crap
I have a 2014 Road King. There was an easy modification I did to mimic your results. My oil level is 1/2 full (on the stand) and has no bubbles in it any more. Thanks for taking the time to make that video. Very helpful.
My 98 FLSTF has the same issue just not as bad as my two twin cams had. I sold both twin cams I'm down to my 72 FLH and the 98 Fatboyno more computerized bikes for me.
I’m using the S&S crankcase breather valve in my 2005 Roadking and haven’t had blow by issues. 95ci with 9.8 compression. Installation was done at 22k miles when gear drive and Andrews cams were installed. Currently at 48k miles with no problems.
I also have a twin cam with S&S 106 stroker on Nitrous n I never saw this problem either!🥳 10,000 kms of hard running STILL!! .
call pvc valve on cars. when they quit working, they send oil to the intake.
@@youtubesuckme This is a reed type valve installed in the oil pump cavity to keep pressure regulated in the engine. The pressure doesn’t build up and overload the rocker boxes with oil which is what causes the oil carryover into the air cleaner.
@@glyde9826 some don't do it some do sound like the reed type valve is malfunctioning.
I'm going to say this as an engine builder if the engines puking oil you can use a oil catch can first thing I would do is a leak down test if the Rings are more than 10% 15% then you got to look at the Rings not sealing or the end caps too big how much lost compression is too much lost compression and a cure would be total seal rings likely rehone the cylinders and while you're at it make sure the valve guides in good shape you can make a leak down tester or you can buy when they're not that much money anymore you can even run a tube from the oil catch just so The Unburned hydrocarbons could be burning up and not the oil going into intake
On my 2014 103 street glide I run on the low side of my dipstick about 1/3 up. Runs better this way.
Never have an issue with oil in my intake.
I also run a fueling vented dipstick.
I don’t let Harley do my oil changes anymore.
Fired them years ago
I handle that myself.
Harley just drains and throws 4 quarts in the crank case and a new filter And they send you on your way. My oil level was at the top of the dipstick past the fill mark every time they did it no matter which mechanic did it.
Regarding oil in your intake. If was still having an issue after doing all I did I would just run a DK catch can.
Thanks for saving me $80-100 on one of those online kits! I have that stuff laying around in my garage.
Wie bekommt man dieses Zubehör?
I have been told by many and the dealer, when checking the oil on the stick there is a lower level line and a full line. only fill to just a little above the low line should eliminate the puking of oil.
This is in the factory service manual as well
If your bike is puking oil out of the air filter, before you do anything else, check your oil level. Even slight overfilling can cause this.
My Fix? I run 1/2 quart LESS than Harley recommends at oil change time. Four quarts + filter total per oil change-Problem solved! Worked on both my M-8's and one Twin Cam model.
Good 👍 from spain
Buy rubber plugs to fill the holes and run the hoses into a catch can. After thousands of miles oil will fill the can. This set up you have made probably works but as the lines get oil in them it will get sucked back in your motor or just make a mess. Will work if you keep it clean or dont ride much.
what size rubber plugs? do you have a picture? thanks, jp
Used this on a 2000 Electra Glide, worked very well! TY
@FSAUDIOGUY Looking to do this on my 99 glide. How did it work for you?
Thanks for taking the time to make that video. Very helpful.
I did the same thing on my 2010 dyna, though I ran the tubes off the vent bolts and T'ed them together under the filter, dropped thru the breather box about 2" and put one lawn mower fuel filter on it. The air exhausting is positive but Ive yet to see any oil at all. Works great.
The oil tank level in a dry sump system has nothing to do with the inferior oil checks in the head. I also agree with Gary Chandler's post. It would be wise to just use oil rated rubber hose to a catch can.
An easy thing to remember is that there is a quart more oil in your engine than you think - when the engine is running the oil is distrubuted all around the engine and it drains down into the crankcase and camchest. It is then pumped back to the oil tank.
When the engine is static that oil just collects in the bottom of the engine and stays there, so when you check how much is in the tank just remember there is still a quart in the engine itself and STOP OVERFILLING THE OIL TANK !!!!!
When you check the oil level on a cold bike and it is on the stand, never fill it above a quarter the way between 'add oil' and 'full' marks - there is oil in the engine, it all expands when it is hot AND when you ride the bike it is upright, not on the stand.
A 'quater-full' oil tank on the stand and cold is half full when you stand the bike upright, and over three-quarters when both hot and upright !
On my Evo I pull the return oil line when changing oil and watch the old oil coming our until I see the new oil. I shut off the bike reattach the oil line and top off the tank. That gets all the old oil out of the motor.
@@ronrobertson59 That's the easy and cheaper way to go ! I think Evo and Twin Cams are almost the same - Evo's filter the oil before it goes back to the tank and twin Cams filter it before it goes through the engine, but otherwise it's the same. The 'Scavenger' total oil change thing from Rogue Chopper is good because it lets you change the oil without putting new oil through a used filter and/or stop you running the last of the old oil that's still in the line from the tank (on a Twin Cam) before the oil pump (or in the sump for the Evo) through the new filter and 'contaminating' it.
It would've been easier if there had been a sump plate of some sort like the old Brit bikes had but you still couldn't get any oil collected in the camchest out ! If you check out the 'Maximum Oil Level' markings on old Brits, it always seems to be rather low down - so as to allow the oil that collects in the bottom of a static engine somewhere to go without over-filling the oil tank when the engine is first started ...... simple really !
100%
I run my dipstick 1/3 up
When I do an oil change on my 14’ 103 I do 3 quarts and that’s it. Everyone I know overfills. I never have an issue with oil coming out of my intake. I also run a fueling vented dipstick
@@ronrobertson59 you should take the motor apart every oil change and clean the bearings of oil and the rods and cams. Relive everything with assembly lube. That's the proper way to change oil
Being only a half pressurized system meaning the flapper valve is closed as much as it's open it will not push aerated oil in the direction opposing gravity. There's a reason on the Harley factory system that it is horizontal or down at all times... What you'll end up with in your system is vaporized oil sludge pooling in the lower sections of the lines which will eventually clog the lines. It has to go down or horizontal from the head bolt on or it won't work in the long run.
Your so right. This will fail . this is not good and he should take this video down.
I was curious how this modification working out for your motorcycle?
I’m interested in doing something similar but I’m real hesitant on modifying the back of my stock air cleaner. This is why I’m intrigued with your modification.
Instead of running 2 lines I’m going to run a 2 into 1 system and have it cool and dump into one tube and lawnmower fuel filter like you did.
It’s like a pvc valve for pollution, the vent in the head does gum up but the crankcase has to breathe if oil gets in the tube it should still blow out .. I did the std mod on my evo and ran it to the ground like all previous HD’s. At medium to high rpm Oil is pumped to the rockers via push rods. And runs back down the tubes to exit the heads. OR excessive blow by ( worn rings ) or oil pump not evacuating the crankcase.
It's PCV. Positive Crankcase Ventilation
@@williamyoung3340 I ran mine to the chain lol.
Looks like a pretty good solution. When ya have the "luxury" of room within the confines of your air box.
Absolutely right I didn’t mention it in the video but I like keeping the stock look as opposed to exposed hoses and finding a place to mount a catch can etc
Common symptom of sumping, either from excessive crank run out or beat up oil pump which can be caused by the very common crank run out. This could make it worse in the long run by increasing built up pressure needed to expell the crank pressure.
The crankcase is still vented through the lawnmower fuel filter et the end of the line
I've seen brand new bikes do it. Incorrect oil filter can cause it too. Just because it fits , does not mean it's correct.
A vented oil cap works great. Check out A1 cycle
How is that Fixed , Weather still getting Oil Vapors in intake. Need to get it Outa Air Cleaner !
I wonder how much it rattles inside the air cleaner.water vapour means you aren’t doing long enough rides to disperse the condensation inside the cases .
Maybe adding pcv valves and mini oil separator cans that drain back into the crankcase might help?
Good video, that's one way to address the problem. I'd like to know what the device is that looks to be attached to the rear rocker cover with the line coming off it, and where that line goes? Thanks.
That is the oil pressure gauge. Goes to a fitting near your oil filter.
Thanks for posting, just bought DK customs catch can and banjo bolts with fittings, works great however the hole on the banjo bolt does not line up with the hole on the fitting?? I think they sent me the wrong damn fittings!!!! Theres just no customer service now a days plus they forgot to send the damn fittings !!!!!!
Did you make a vid with a newer bike or one of your fan base get a code? Might need a little guidance on how to close the loop. Does that mean eliminating the cooling system you just installed?
So, it's worth it to do this if we don't have money for the repair or just a thing harley users do eventually because the parts are just hard to get?? Also... Would it be possible to get a one way valve and use that instead of those fuel filters?
Oil level should be dead center of the dip stick. When checking oil level make sure the bike is sitting exactly level. You must pay very close attention to that. The oil in the air cleaner will immediately go away.
I like this idea, sounds like it would help
@@cj8172 it does a little. I run say 80 on the highway and oil doesn't run out on the engine. It's not a complete fix but it does more like it was designed to.
Check oil after a 20 minute ride. Don't let it idle n think that's operating temp. It must be ridden. Check out John Maxwell video on oil. You can drain oil into a measured container to see how much oil is in tank but it could be overfilled. If it's correct then refill with same amount or purge the whole system . Delboys Garage has a video on purging.
I have a 103. Running into a oil catch bottle and then back into the back of the filter. My theory is the bottle works like a sediment bowl like on a old fuel system. Air returns to the engine without the oil. Most of the oil stays in the bottle. However it needs to be checked so I doesn’t overflow and make a mess. I haven’t tried it yet just waiting for the snow to go away 🥺
commonly referred to as a oil-air separator
I did this a couple weeks ago and I'm gettin' better gas mileage ...however, it sounds like it's running a little rough or dry? So, i'm thinking on what you said about "air temp" in the breather ( i ran my hose straight to the ground! )
As a theory, the oil level argument seems unlikely. On the dip stick, a level change from 1/4 to 1/2 would equate to 250ml (?). But then spread that out over the surface are of the oil pan and that changes the depth 1/16in (?). Then add in oil movement while the bike is moving, and I don't see how that can make a difference. Therefore, oil level is not a factor in my eyes. The discussion should be around how the oil gets into the head area in the first place, which is why it requires draining.
Otherwise, I really like the method you created.
superb explanation. Thanks for making the video.
explained well,thanks
Just did mine and installed a new filter, let the testing begin
This was a definite improvement, I find the motor had better response, it use to stall on me once in a while like it was needing air
The test continues
@@donmelanson4894 just did mine and I thought it was all in my head it does respond better
@@MrTheDays1 I liked it but found some oil fumes where still present in the air box so , modified the hoses with black gas lines , omited the add on filters, and ran the hose to the frame with zip tyes , Ill post pictures when i can .
You or at least I would think that as much as a Harley costs you wouldn’t have to modify anything. You don’t have to modify Cadillac or Lincoln when you buy them.
Buy a Honda and a Hooker. Both look better than what you will get from the Harley.
@@fladave99 agree whole heartedly, it seems like every person who spends outrageous amounts of money on a Harley wind up spending $2000-$3000 more through Harley or aftermarket sales to make it right. Spending that much it better BE right and STAY right for a long time.
@@robertpulliam9973 I seriously looked at Harleys for around $5,000 all they had was leaky underpowered bikes with no brakes and 50k miles..For $5,000 I got a high tech ST 1300 Honda with 5,500 miles, 120 hp, dual disk brakes, smooth running machine that wont need a dime for another 100K miles.As far as Harleys attracting girls, all the girls I see around Harleys need a DENTIST and a clean T-shirt, not a ride on a Harley.
@@fladave99 they probably needed a G.I. Skrub
They all could probably use an old fashion GI scrubbing shower too. Lol
Great vid yet ... Able to keep on eye on it, thanks.
What remote oil pressure gauge are you using? And when you plumbed it into the case, were you running the long oil sender?
Are you still running this set up? Have you made any additional modifications? Is it working out for you?
don't mind all that emission control of the nearby future. Reminds me of the meatball on top of spegitte when someone sneezed. ha haha 🐱😆
Just asking for trouble if you don't keep oil level at full levels on any engine.
Excellent solution
just change out the umbrella valve in the top valve cover or you put it on the wrong side which can happen..
All good except the dip in the lines. Keep it running downhill. Filters are not necessary.
The TC has sumping problems due to out of round cranks, bad oil pumps and wear on cam plates. All this does is bandaid a problem. You are sumping to much oil
My solution was I sold both my twin cams and bought a Evo.
I believe I have the vapors too.
sounds like a pretty simple fix , how did you do with more miles on it
It's working great
How often do u ride
@@buckyb4360 not much right now , it sledding time lol
300 miles a week approx
The simple fix is to learn not to overfill oil, that is what causes this issue to be bad.
Can you just vent the oil cap?
Are you still using this setup?
I Run 2-3 Marks Down From Full!
Stops Most Oil On Air Cleaner ! Stage 1
This is the way I plan on doing it on my M8 motor. Do you think it needs to be routed back into the intake to pull the oil and moisture easier? What was your conclusion on this?
Good question I was not concerned about intake pull because it’s eliminated. To answer your question more directly, Blow by (combustion gases getting past piston rings) creates a positive pressure in the crankcase which is a pushing effect on the same vapors.
An S&S crankcase breather will take care of the problem, instead of running hoses and catch cans etc. No one needs all that extra crap on their bike.
Great idea!
Sir, What you have here done is self defeating!.. As you said steam/ water vapor, bad air and oil comming out your breather ports.. ( Which in reality is sludge) Why in the hell are you still keeping it in the air box??? You need to tee your clear lines and run them the heck out of the air box out and away from the intake period!!!!. Now either use a catch can or run the hose out on the ground.. Which i could give a crap about since more cars and semi trucks dump more fuel and oil on the roads for the last 100 years than i ever could.. I digress.. Next, all your doing is still recycling all the above steam/water vapor, bad air and oil (sludge) back into your engine via through your air cleaner now plugging that up faster!.. Last your clear hoses are routed back upwards instead of draining down and also not utilizing gravity!. So if you get a lot of oil comming out, it will fill the bottom loop of your hoses creating a block or partial plug that the more/ additional expended steam/water vapor, bad air and oil (Sludge) that keeps on comming, must over come or to push through to try to vent!. Thus Backing up your breather system!!. Basically you've made a reservoir at the bottom of those hoses.. So as the crankcase pressure builds up high enough, It will blow/puke a big built up blob of all that crap all over the top of your air cleaner then start to choke the engine of air!.
I know this is an older vid. I did this exact setup with a crank vent. And I’m still getting oil everywhere, I’m at wits end my lines filled at the low sec with just a 40mile ride. Did this clear your trouble??
Try that idea of only having the oil tank half full
@@cj8172 put a check value on the dip stick breather all good now 👍
I fix by cleaning carb and air cleaner. Then it stops. The oil is leaking under the bike instead
Why don't you vent it to atmosphere ? It works for me on the 88.
I seriously looked at Harleys for around $5,000 all they had was leaky underpowered bikes with no brakes and 50k miles..For $5,000 I got a high tech ST 1300 Honda with 5,500 miles, 120 hp, dual disk brakes, smooth running machine that wont need a dime for another 100K miles.As far as Harleys attracting girls, all the girls I see around Harleys need a DENTIST and a clean T-shirt, not a ride on a Harley.
@@fladave99 lol. That's funny
@@fladave99
And when you hit 21 in 4 years ride that Honda over to the bar and have a beer with us Harley boys....
@@jonmckeon929 lol Honda riders don’t drink beer, they drink martinis and sex on the beachs 😂
The lawnmower fuel filter on the end of the lines are opened to the atmosphere
Oil WILL make its way into those hoses where it will accumulate until it burbs out into the air cleaner. There's better ideas out there.
That's the whole point. Oil vapor converts back to liquid in the lines.Just don't ignore it.Check it once in a while and clean or replace lines I'm around 1400 miles and haven't had to drain it yet.
No matter what kit you buy you have to check it empty it etc
It's an incredibly slow process unless you overfill the bike
It s a Dry Sump !! Oil in the tank hasnt got anything to do with it. Unless your oil pump gas a skavnge problem
You should run the lines into the transmission pan and then the oil will go back into the oil your way sucks
....run an oil catch can...bigger the better...when its full...just tip the oil back into your oil tank....problem solved.
What are those white plastic vent looking things? DK Customs has products that expel the vapors from the head breather bolts. And use a catch can as someone previous suggested. Still you don't Mention the white plastic things and where did you get them?
Looks like small fuel filters for a small engine, like a lawn mower.
@@jeffhastings3463 thanks American Land
He clearly stated they were small engine fuel filters. I'm guessing you only looked at the pictures or never even finished watching before you felt you had to spew your ignorance.
@@fredwilley5931 you need help take your meds
@@americanland878 maybe you are not ignorant. Maybe you just lack the skills to absorb and retain information. You need not worry just go back and watch the video. I'll be self medicating at my leisure.
TWO major problems here,1) you are recommending an untested system that most likely won't work. 2) You TAPED the cleaner plate holes on a fuel/oil saturated system?
Good luck with all the dirt you're gonna suck in when that tape fails.
You need to run it to a catch bucket
So many fixes for stock harleys, seems stupid to buy expensive bike that has changed so little over the decades that still has so many factory flaws. Somple gix is buy a well engineered bike to start with, so buy japanese and avoid spending time and money fixing factory flawed crap
alm that talk and you don't say anything
Easiest way to stop a Harley from slobbering oil is to trade it on a BMW.
Right never buy another Harley and you are home free.
Because BMW has such a great track record for quality, LOL.
Why did you even watch the video? Just so you could troll and say something negative about Harley and I bet the only thing you ride is the bus. STFU
No, I rode a BMW 1200LT and it felt like a top heavy tank with a bunch of rattling plastic
buy a bmw and ride the best ride a mile and walk the rest
Don't buy a Harley, problem solved !!!🤣