I think these types of axes are made with specific use cases in mind. Muller (biber) could easily have made their axe with a curved edge and vice versa. So this is not so much a Muller vs. Granfors comparison but rather a look at the two different axe geometries and their pros/cons. However I will say that Grandfors is becoming somewhat of a "designer brand" possibly due to their popularity in America, making their axes more expensive than necessary. I like to compare them to Hultafors, which is another Swedish forge that makes equally good axes for a significantly lower price.
@@urbanlumberjack I have not personally tried one but strongway tools makes a broad axe that looks interesting. See carpenters axe section of their website.
Nice! For some reason i really like that Muller. Kind of a mini old school broad axe but would be alot easier to manage for an occasional user and would just be really handy to have around. Good value too. Definitely nice to have the pair though!
It’s an awesome forge! I was very surprised they are still cranking these axes out one by one. Truly hand forged. Dude, sweet video on that new icon knife! It looks legit.
I have leaned toward getting the Muller Biber as my first broad axe. But a bit ago I bought an old FLINT EDGE , 12 " that weighs 7 3/4 lbs. So that will be what I start with. But do think I want to get the Muller Biber also. For a light weight hewing axe. I just know that I want to get to making beams. I'm not sure how fine a job I can accomplish with the Heavy axe. But, it's all learning for me. I have this grandiose idea that I would like to build a 16x16 log cabin from 4 sided hewn beams.
That’s an awesome goal! That flint edge is a great find. 7 3/4 will absolutely build some muscle. The vintage broad axes really are something special. The muller would be a good companion. It’s nice and light, so can trade off with the heavier axe. Nice to have that break every once in a while
I bought a vintage hewing hatchet (Iron City?) for carving and maybe some fitting of joints, which looks like the handle can be mounted either way for right or left bevel. It seems a bit heavy for carving, but small for hewing (which I haven't really tried yet). Then I bought a brand new Mueler Biber one like I had seen DonVonGun use for shelter building on his channel (right bevel only). It is still a bit clunky, though. I cut off the nail puller on the bottom of the poll to make it better for choking up on, and relieved/smoothed the back side of the beard to clear my fingers better. I still need to thin down the handle a fair amount, but it seeems to show promise as a one-handed carver. I think I got it through Wiseman Trading.
Hey man awesome work keep it up! I’d love your input on the following: if on a budget, what is the best felling axe that can also split in your opinion? Would you say it’s the Council tool Jersey pattern axe or something else?
Thank you! For a full size felling axe on a budget it is really hard to beat the council tool jersey. The Dayton they sell can be found a bit cheaper and is great too. Both split well enough, I do recommend rehanging when you get them and chamfering the bottom of the eye.
Definitely! Curved bit is much better for chopping and severing fibers. So good when working with tough grain or irregular grain. The flat bit is much easier to maintain a plumb line and hew flat. I could plausibly see someone owning both. If I could have just one it would be the Gransfors.
Nice axes! I'm glad you showed how they worked with the tricky grain not just the easy parts.
Thank you! Oh yeah that corner was awful! Grain all over the place
I think these types of axes are made with specific use cases in mind. Muller (biber) could easily have made their axe with a curved edge and vice versa. So this is not so much a Muller vs. Granfors comparison but rather a look at the two different axe geometries and their pros/cons.
However I will say that Grandfors is becoming somewhat of a "designer brand" possibly due to their popularity in America, making their axes more expensive than necessary. I like to compare them to Hultafors, which is another Swedish forge that makes equally good axes for a significantly lower price.
Or buy a husqvarna axe even cheaper made by same forge !
As far as I know, Hultafors doesn't offer a broad axe.
Very professional video as usual. I appreciate your straightforward explanation of the strengths and weakness of each axe. They are both beauties!
Thank you!
@@urbanlumberjack I have not personally tried one but strongway tools makes a broad axe that looks interesting. See carpenters axe section of their website.
Nice! For some reason i really like that Muller. Kind of a mini old school broad axe but would be alot easier to manage for an occasional user and would just be really handy to have around. Good value too. Definitely nice to have the pair though!
It’s a great tool! I could see it having an even shorter handle to make it more compact. I’m partial to it too
Excellent demonstration of skills and representation of both tools...
Thank you!
Thanks for the video. I didn't even know anyone else currently made a broad axe other than GB!
It’s an awesome forge! I was very surprised they are still cranking these axes out one by one. Truly hand forged.
Dude, sweet video on that new icon knife! It looks legit.
@@urbanlumberjack it is! I was blown away.
Really great video
Thank you!
I have leaned toward getting the Muller Biber as my first broad axe. But a bit ago I bought an old FLINT EDGE , 12 " that weighs 7 3/4 lbs. So that will be what I start with. But do think I want to get the Muller Biber also. For a light weight hewing axe.
I just know that I want to get to making beams.
I'm not sure how fine a job I can accomplish with the Heavy axe. But, it's all learning for me.
I have this grandiose idea that I would like to build a 16x16 log cabin from 4 sided hewn beams.
That’s an awesome goal! That flint edge is a great find. 7 3/4 will absolutely build some muscle. The vintage broad axes really are something special. The muller would be a good companion. It’s nice and light, so can trade off with the heavier axe. Nice to have that break every once in a while
I bought a vintage hewing hatchet (Iron City?) for carving and maybe some fitting of joints, which looks like the handle can be mounted either way for right or left bevel. It seems a bit heavy for carving, but small for hewing (which I haven't really tried yet). Then I bought a brand new Mueler Biber one like I had seen DonVonGun use for shelter building on his channel (right bevel only). It is still a bit clunky, though. I cut off the nail puller on the bottom of the poll to make it better for choking up on, and relieved/smoothed the back side of the beard to clear my fingers better. I still need to thin down the handle a fair amount, but it seeems to show promise as a one-handed carver. I think I got it through Wiseman Trading.
I like wisemen trading they have good prices and fast shipping.
Probably going to be my next axe. I won't be hewing with it though
You have to secure the log! Both axes are for specific jobs.
Hey man awesome work keep it up! I’d love your input on the following: if on a budget, what is the best felling axe that can also split in your opinion? Would you say it’s the Council tool Jersey pattern axe or something else?
Thank you! For a full size felling axe on a budget it is really hard to beat the council tool jersey. The Dayton they sell can be found a bit cheaper and is great too. Both split well enough, I do recommend rehanging when you get them and chamfering the bottom of the eye.
Any meaningful difference between the straight and curved bits ?
Definitely! Curved bit is much better for chopping and severing fibers. So good when working with tough grain or irregular grain.
The flat bit is much easier to maintain a plumb line and hew flat.
I could plausibly see someone owning both. If I could have just one it would be the Gransfors.
Whatcha makin with that there beam?
Aiming for a mantle or other piece of furniture. Hoping to get some longer logs for actual building projects soon