Mate, nice effort brewing and filming one handed, well done! I'm currently weighing up the Guten for double batches having brewed on the grainfather for a few years.
The spring is a GREAT idea! I enjoyed watching the video. Everything went smoothly, even with the new mill. Something to consider is that the rollers may need to be adjusted on the mill when going between say Marris Otter and maybe Weyermann's malt. When malt can be crushed between the fingers, the roller gaps need to be increased. The mill that I use is commercial grade and it has an ammeter on the motor, when the amp draw is high, I open up the gaps. After awhile you'll get to know by the sound of the mill when everything is Kosher. Crisp's, Marris Otter is low protein, malt, which is good, the less protein, the more sugar in malt, however, the malt is high modified to over modified. The level of modification is listed on Crisp's malt spec sheet for Marris Otter under the K (Kolbach) column on the EBC's malt spec sheet. The Kolbach number is 43 to 48. I use data from the EBC because I'm more familiar with their numbers. Brits use data from the IOB. Malt, 40 Kolbach and lower is under modified. Under modified, malt is much richer in enzyme content than high modified, malt. Weyermann floor malt and Gladfield American Malt are under modified. To take advantage of the rich malt, at the least, a three temperature, step mash method should be used, which produces pseudo ale and lager. To take full advantage of the malt a triple decoction method is used, which produces authentic ale and lager. The single temperature infusion method produces distillers beer. The higher the Kolbach number and protein content, the less suitable the malt is for producing ale and lager. The malt is more suitable for grain distillation where only Alpha and one temperature are needed. Homebrew instructions and recipes are based on the way that distillers beer is produced. The method skips conversion, dextrinization and gelatinization and without the steps ale and lager cannot be produced. Conversion occurs at 60C. During the conversion rest, Beta converts simple sugar, glucose, released from amylose when the starch is liquefied, turning the glucose into complex types of sugar, maltose and maltotriose, which are the types of sugar that produces ale and lager. When conversion occurs, secondary fermentation takes place because yeast works on maltose differently than it works on glucose. An enzyme within yeast converts maltose back into glucose during secondary fermentation. Beer doesn't need to be primed with sugar or injected with CO2 to carbonate, beer naturally carbonates during conditioning due to maltotriose when conversion occurs. Natural carbonation is much finer than bubbles made from artificial means. The conversion rest is skipped in homebrew recipes because depending on the level of modification an Alpha-Beta enzyme mixture would need to be added to the malt for conversion to occur, an extra step in the brewing process is needed, the fermentation cycle extends a week to two weeks, and an extra fermenter is required. Also, the extra time increases the risk of infection and oxidation. There's a type of hard, heat resistant, complex starch in malt called amylopectin. The starch makes up the tips of malt and it is the richest starch in malt. The starch contains A and B limit dextrin, which are tasteless, nonfermenting, types of sugar that are responsible for body and mouthfeel in beer. The temperatures used to make homebrew aren't high enough to burst the starch before Alpha denatures and the rich starch is thrown out with the spent mash. To take advantage of the starch mash is boiled as in the decoction method. When Alpha liquefies amylopectin, dextrinization and gelatinization occurs. The only time dextrinization occurs in the infusion method happens when amylose contains a 1-6 link in the starch chain, which is extremely, rare. Without the types of sugar, beer dries and thins out during fermentation and conditioning. Skim off hot break as it forms and continue to remove hot break until it drastically reduces, before adding hops. Less hops are needed because the extract is cleaner. Skim off second break, as well. Purchase hops that have the Beta percentage listed on the container. Without knowing the Beta percentage, the quality of hops cannot be determined. The Alpha and Beta numbers should be within a decimal point. The closer the numbers, the finer and more balanced the hops. To learn how ale and lager are produced start with deClerks books. Stay safe, stay parched.
Wow, came here because I'm preparing for my first all grain brew. Feeling a little overwhelmed now. Some of it I could keep up with, some of it will need further study. I'm intrigued by the natural carbonation idea.
It's still pretty warm when I end up using it, I'll try remember to take a measurement next time. Some people cold sparge so I'm not too concerned about the temperature. For the additional costs/effort involved, I don't see the need to change my set up at the moment.
Cheers, what hose/tube are you using? Is it just a regular silicone hose? Currently trying to find one of those in Germany to avoid oxidation during my brew day. Advice is highly appreciated.
Hi Timo, yes just regular 12mm silicone hose. Brouland or Bahnik might stock the same stuff that I use www.kegland.com.au/heavy-duty-silicone-tube-2m-roll-10mm-id-x-15mm-od.html
@@tophatbrewing7884 just how you have it setup and what you use? Just got a 70 guten moving up from a 35 robobrew and don't think my 2 roller and cordless will cope with it to well
hi top hat brewing. just a quick question..whats the time on the temp rise. From tap water temp to mash temp. And mash temp to boiling temp. Great vid by the way..
Hi Lyndsay, I haven't timed it, I'll try remember to do it next time. My whole brewday takes about 5 hours with a 60 minute mash and 60 minute boil. I do mash in quite slowly to try avoid dough balls, and I let it rest for about 20 minutes at the end before i transfer. This also includes cleaning everything.
@@Taper68 Where in the UK mate? I'm originally from South West England. From 75c to boil while sparging took about 40 minutes. Longer than I expected...
Good vid, I am not using enough water it seems...I cant help thinking you would be better off running the pump a bit with the grain pipe lifted rather than "German wording" out through the tap.. if the helix filters everything, that means the bits stay in the kettle anyway defeating the purpose. Running the pump would recirculate any grains left in the bottom back to the bed. I just bought the helix now after watching this vid, as i hadnt seen that part before.. but for wort transfer not really for the mash.
Hi Tim. I agree that the helix doesn't make much difference during the mash in these single vessel systems. It's a habit I've continued using since I had a Robobrew with the false bottom, which small pieces of grain could get through. I can probably ditch it and notice absolutely no difference. What water troubles are you having, thick mash, low finishing volume?
@@tophatbrewing7884 yeah just got it recently and my first run , while it did end up being beer both on target for OG and only 1litre short, it was far from a perfect brew day. I will go with the 50 odd litres next time.. my old brew software steered me a bit wrong, and of course... there is no manual at all with the Guten , No, "Your first brew day." no kickstarter recipe you cant screw up etc. Its only now a few vids are starting to emerge. I have rather a lot of beer already so i need to get back to the coal face and empty some kegs for anotehr run.
Mate, nice effort brewing and filming one handed, well done! I'm currently weighing up the Guten for double batches having brewed on the grainfather for a few years.
The spring is a GREAT idea! I enjoyed watching the video. Everything went smoothly, even with the new mill. Something to consider is that the rollers may need to be adjusted on the mill when going between say Marris Otter and maybe Weyermann's malt. When malt can be crushed between the fingers, the roller gaps need to be increased. The mill that I use is commercial grade and it has an ammeter on the motor, when the amp draw is high, I open up the gaps. After awhile you'll get to know by the sound of the mill when everything is Kosher.
Crisp's, Marris Otter is low protein, malt, which is good, the less protein, the more sugar in malt, however, the malt is high modified to over modified. The level of modification is listed on Crisp's malt spec sheet for Marris Otter under the K (Kolbach) column on the EBC's malt spec sheet. The Kolbach number is 43 to 48. I use data from the EBC because I'm more familiar with their numbers. Brits use data from the IOB. Malt, 40 Kolbach and lower is under modified. Under modified, malt is much richer in enzyme content than high modified, malt. Weyermann floor malt and Gladfield American Malt are under modified. To take advantage of the rich malt, at the least, a three temperature, step mash method should be used, which produces pseudo ale and lager. To take full advantage of the malt a triple decoction method is used, which produces authentic ale and lager. The single temperature infusion method produces distillers beer. The higher the Kolbach number and protein content, the less suitable the malt is for producing ale and lager. The malt is more suitable for grain distillation where only Alpha and one temperature are needed. Homebrew instructions and recipes are based on the way that distillers beer is produced. The method skips conversion, dextrinization and gelatinization and without the steps ale and lager cannot be produced.
Conversion occurs at 60C. During the conversion rest, Beta converts simple sugar, glucose, released from amylose when the starch is liquefied, turning the glucose into complex types of sugar, maltose and maltotriose, which are the types of sugar that produces ale and lager. When conversion occurs, secondary fermentation takes place because yeast works on maltose differently than it works on glucose. An enzyme within yeast converts maltose back into glucose during secondary fermentation. Beer doesn't need to be primed with sugar or injected with CO2 to carbonate, beer naturally carbonates during conditioning due to maltotriose when conversion occurs. Natural carbonation is much finer than bubbles made from artificial means.
The conversion rest is skipped in homebrew recipes because depending on the level of modification an Alpha-Beta enzyme mixture would need to be added to the malt for conversion to occur, an extra step in the brewing process is needed, the fermentation cycle extends a week to two weeks, and an extra fermenter is required. Also, the extra time increases the risk of infection and oxidation.
There's a type of hard, heat resistant, complex starch in malt called amylopectin. The starch makes up the tips of malt and it is the richest starch in malt. The starch contains A and B limit dextrin, which are tasteless, nonfermenting, types of sugar that are responsible for body and mouthfeel in beer. The temperatures used to make homebrew aren't high enough to burst the starch before Alpha denatures and the rich starch is thrown out with the spent mash. To take advantage of the starch mash is boiled as in the decoction method. When Alpha liquefies amylopectin, dextrinization and gelatinization occurs. The only time dextrinization occurs in the infusion method happens when amylose contains a 1-6 link in the starch chain, which is extremely, rare. Without the types of sugar, beer dries and thins out during fermentation and conditioning.
Skim off hot break as it forms and continue to remove hot break until it drastically reduces, before adding hops. Less hops are needed because the extract is cleaner. Skim off second break, as well. Purchase hops that have the Beta percentage listed on the container. Without knowing the Beta percentage, the quality of hops cannot be determined. The Alpha and Beta numbers should be within a decimal point. The closer the numbers, the finer and more balanced the hops.
To learn how ale and lager are produced start with deClerks books. Stay safe, stay parched.
Wow, came here because I'm preparing for my first all grain brew. Feeling a little overwhelmed now. Some of it I could keep up with, some of it will need further study. I'm intrigued by the natural carbonation idea.
nice brewday. I liked the lactic acid pump thingy. Cheers
Hey mate! Great content. What’s the chance of doing a vid on setting up the 70l Guten profile in Brewfather.
I can do that mate. Will be finished my keezer build and video soon so I will do it after that.
Thanks for the video!
So u don't keep your spare water hot or does it stay hot enough in your cube?
It's still pretty warm when I end up using it, I'll try remember to take a measurement next time. Some people cold sparge so I'm not too concerned about the temperature.
For the additional costs/effort involved, I don't see the need to change my set up at the moment.
Cant understand much of what you say. Your audio?
Cheers, what hose/tube are you using? Is it just a regular silicone hose? Currently trying to find one of those in Germany to avoid oxidation during my brew day. Advice is highly appreciated.
Hi Timo, yes just regular 12mm silicone hose. Brouland or Bahnik might stock the same stuff that I use www.kegland.com.au/heavy-duty-silicone-tube-2m-roll-10mm-id-x-15mm-od.html
Where did u source your clamps from.
The orange ones? They are just from a hardware store.
Do you boil at 3000w the whole time?
Yes I do. The entire boil, and all ramping is done at 3000w, the mash is 1000w or something close.
I don't find that I get much scorching.
whats IPA?
Hey mate are you able to do a video on your mill setup please
Yeah no worries mate, is there anything in particular you want me to focus on?
@@tophatbrewing7884 just how you have it setup and what you use? Just got a 70 guten moving up from a 35 robobrew and don't think my 2 roller and cordless will cope with it to well
@@kanekanuta1330 Just put a video up for you mate. Let me know if you have any questions.
@@tophatbrewing7884 thanks mate just watched it was exactly what I was after cheers
hi top hat brewing. just a quick question..whats the time on the temp rise. From tap water temp to mash temp. And mash temp to boiling temp. Great vid by the way..
Hi Lyndsay, I haven't timed it, I'll try remember to do it next time.
My whole brewday takes about 5 hours with a 60 minute mash and 60 minute boil.
I do mash in quite slowly to try avoid dough balls, and I let it rest for about 20 minutes at the end before i transfer.
This also includes cleaning everything.
@@tophatbrewing7884 thanks again..much appreciated.
Hey mate, doing a batch right now. 60L @ 50c (from the hot water tap) took 30 minutes to get to 67c. Almost at the boil so I can update on that soon.
@@tophatbrewing7884 thank you for the update..happy brewing from UK 🤙🍻🍻
@@Taper68 Where in the UK mate? I'm originally from South West England.
From 75c to boil while sparging took about 40 minutes. Longer than I expected...
Good vid, I am not using enough water it seems...I cant help thinking you would be better off running the pump a bit with the grain pipe lifted rather than "German wording" out through the tap.. if the helix filters everything, that means the bits stay in the kettle anyway defeating the purpose. Running the pump would recirculate any grains left in the bottom back to the bed.
I just bought the helix now after watching this vid, as i hadnt seen that part before.. but for wort transfer not really for the mash.
Hi Tim. I agree that the helix doesn't make much difference during the mash in these single vessel systems. It's a habit I've continued using since I had a Robobrew with the false bottom, which small pieces of grain could get through. I can probably ditch it and notice absolutely no difference.
What water troubles are you having, thick mash, low finishing volume?
@@tophatbrewing7884 yeah just got it recently and my first run , while it did end up being beer both on target for OG and only 1litre short, it was far from a perfect brew day. I will go with the 50 odd litres next time.. my old brew software steered me a bit wrong, and of course... there is no manual at all with the Guten , No, "Your first brew day." no kickstarter recipe you cant screw up etc. Its only now a few vids are starting to emerge. I have rather a lot of beer already so i need to get back to the coal face and empty some kegs for anotehr run.
Have you used the robobrew 65L before?
@@aydanrogers8477 Hi Aydan, I had a 35L Robobrew and my friend currently has the 65L Brewzilla. Both of these and my Guten are great to work with.
@@LaserSharkPhotoablations There is a manual with two recipes on the KegKing website