Always enjoy your videos and have learned a lot from them. The elastic trick is worth remembering and I will be sure to give it a try when I am next out.
I was just today setting up the reefing system on my new boat, configured the same as yours. At the comfort of a calm dock, I took it all for a 'test drive'. Pretty easy, but I did determine that this would be a two-person job on a pitching wet deck. The three AWESOME 'hacks' I got from this vid are: Tape on the halyard to let out the correct amount. Elastic cord to hold the reefing cringle in place before the halyard tension can be reapplied. Sorting out the folds in the leech so the reefing lines can work at their most efficient. Thanks heaps! She can now stay in the cabin watching Netflix!
Grear video with great points, and i fully agree, if you want to learn something watch a number of videos, gather the info that is useful to your boat , then go practice and apply what you learn..
one more tip, in heavy weather, put the main sheet lead,( the anchor point of the sheet pulley blocks) to leward, a couple of inches/feet, REDUCES rudder angle, go faster( also balances the power, as same sail area for jib, but LESS main, so will point on a different course{think of the tank tracks, or multi-enging aircraft- differential power turns in the direction of the lesser engine/force}) ; BUT more important, like the flaps in aircraft, rigs the boat to heal less, so a safer/more comfortable ride, as you are more upright, & less stress on the rig. ( and less chance of the "chinease jibe" too :-)) ).
Nobody gets to pick the conditions of their accidental entry into the water while under way much past wearing a PFD and being clipped in to a restraint system of one sort or another. Dont spend up to 72 hours treading water and floating....all you gotta do is take some precautions
Hi David. Sorry for the slow response. It does depend a lot on the boat and its systems but generally speaking yes. You need to get the load out of the sail so some degree of upwind is normally required.
Hi Keith, Yup should have mentioned both more. Sea Horse had a strut so I didn't have to worry about the topping lift and Id let the vang off. The important thing is that neither should hinder the process. Thanks. Ian
Always enjoy your videos and have learned a lot from them. The elastic trick is worth remembering and I will be sure to give it a try when I am next out.
Thanks Don, it is so effective I'm amazed more people dont do it
I was just today setting up the reefing system on my new boat, configured the same as yours. At the comfort of a calm dock, I took it all for a 'test drive'. Pretty easy, but I did determine that this would be a two-person job on a pitching wet deck. The three AWESOME 'hacks' I got from this vid are:
Tape on the halyard to let out the correct amount.
Elastic cord to hold the reefing cringle in place before the halyard tension can be reapplied.
Sorting out the folds in the leech so the reefing lines can work at their most efficient.
Thanks heaps! She can now stay in the cabin watching Netflix!
Thanks for the feedback, great to hear from you
Nice trick with the elastic
Hi Ben. Yup dont remember how I found that out but it makes a huge difference whether you single handed or not.
@@SailingwiththeFoxwellFamily I'll second that. Had the reefing ring come off the hook a few times. Quite annoying. I'll try your trick next season.
Thanks, explained simply and directly
Good to know you enjoyed it, thanks
Grear video with great points, and i fully agree, if you want to learn something watch a number of videos, gather the info that is useful to your boat , then go practice and apply what you learn..
Hi Steve. Thanks, good to hear from you and glad you liked the film
Very glad I found your videos, well done.
Hi Joel. Thanks, glad your enjoying them
Thank you, brother. This was very informative and straightforward. Happy sails!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Reef while on the starboard tack, esp. when single-handed, so that you are on the stand-on vessel if you encounter other boats.
Hi That is a very good point, thanks for commenting
one more tip, in heavy weather, put the main sheet lead,( the anchor point of the sheet pulley blocks) to leward, a couple of inches/feet, REDUCES rudder angle, go faster( also balances the power, as same sail area for jib, but LESS main, so will point on a different course{think of the tank tracks, or multi-enging aircraft- differential power turns in the direction of the lesser engine/force}) ; BUT more important, like the flaps in aircraft, rigs the boat to heal less, so a safer/more comfortable ride, as you are more upright, & less stress on the rig. ( and less chance of the "chinease jibe" too :-)) ).
Nobody gets to pick the conditions of their accidental entry into the water while under way much past wearing a PFD and being clipped in to a restraint system of one sort or another. Dont spend up to 72 hours treading water and floating....all you gotta do is take some precautions
Is Cringle the word you're looking for?
Hi Rusty. Yup I think it was. Thanks for watching
Regarding downwind sailing; I presume the boat must be turned around into the wind to reef main?
Hi David. Sorry for the slow response. It does depend a lot on the boat and its systems but generally speaking yes. You need to get the load out of the sail so some degree of upwind is normally required.
Great vid thanks. Just wondering about topping lift and boom Vang? Do you bother with these? Thanks
Hi Keith, Yup should have mentioned both more. Sea Horse had a strut so I didn't have to worry about the topping lift and Id let the vang off. The important thing is that neither should hinder the process. Thanks. Ian
You put the cringle on the horn
Yup, cringle thats the word