I purchased a shorter scale (630mm) guitar due to having relatively smaller hands and let me tell you... it makes all the difference in the world. I had no idea how much more comfortable it would make playing. Now... let me tell you... I honestly only use this guitar for playing repertoire. I still practice diligently on my standard scale guitar in order to strengthen fingers and improve stretches. After I practice many hours of finger exercises on my standard guitar, I reward myself by playing on the shorter scale guitar (which I use solely for playing repertoire). I find this arrangement ideal, as I find that after my stamina is used up from hours of speed drills, hammer-ons and pull-offs, I am able to work on pieces on the smaller scale guitar with much enjoyment.
that makes perfect sense- ...just like a. Baseball player warms up with heavier bats, sometimes- then they can switch up to the lighter bat with extra control / power
This video helped me out considerably, I am a short person also that is why i was going to get a smaller guitar, plus my left shoulder has a metal screw in it so that restricts me some. First I'm going to get me a fairly cheap small guitar, one that the strings will stay tight on, and see if my shoulder will stop me. I'm 71 years old so I better get with it.
I play a 640 Navarro student guitar with a slightly smaller body. I think it did make me a better player, because it made playing more comfortable. That meant better and longer practices, which is why I say it made me better. Also, I’m retired and have a little arthritis in both hands, so easier stretches helped too. Nice video, thanks.
Yes, in the long run it can help to improve playing through relaxation but I'm just so cautious of telling people that it will "fix" anything or more accurately, be a "quick fix".
And I totally agree. It didn’t make me a “virtuoso” overnight, in fact I’m only an intermediate, if even that. But I’m glad to see short scale guitars being talked about, and explained. Nut width plays a role, too. Again, thanks for the informative video.
When I was a kid back in the day, before the internet, I went to a small local guitar shop. I had no clue about anything. I asked the salesman for a recommendation. I bought that guitar and basically never played it for about 2 decades. I was sold a Washburn Western guitar, likely a Dreadnought body. He gave me the worst possible guitar for a 5'3 kid living at home wanting to get started. Huge body, very loud, strings have high tension. I am glad to say, that shop went out of business.
I tend to agree: an instrument you like more (whether it's because of size, sound or even design or hype) is likely the one you'll be playing more... And the downsides of a smaller instruments seem to be pretty small, ehm.
@@vetham100 You are wrong. A guitar that has rusty strings will hurt your fingers so you can't play for long and you won't be a better player. Same analogy. Even a tiny bit of comfort can add up extra 10 minutes of practice every day can add up eventually. Do not ignore your guitar's playability.
I recently bought a 640mm lattice braced guitar which after playing a 664mm Ramirez 1a for many years is like butter. Playing full barres at the first fret is no longer a drama and at 55 (though I've played since my pre teens) I find my physical limitations are now manifesting themselves. You'll discover this in a couple of decades or so and may well change your views. Being able to play bigger pieces without any difficulty is a dream that was just not feasible on the Ramirez. The sound is different but not unpleasant or unacceptable. I'm glad to have the choice of the shorter scale length when I know that I'm going to need it.
Thanks again for this. I didn't even know short scale guitars were a thing! I bought my guitar (I just measured it and it's a 650) when I was a teenager 30 years ago and I stopped playing shortly after. I just recently picked it again up and this is enlightening. I am quite small (167 cm) and have small hands so there are stretches like in "Un día de Noviembre" or in the second section of VillaLobos' Schottish-Choro that are literally physically impossible for me. Thanks for the warning that it won't make me a better player :) but I am getting one of these!
I have been using my first guitar, a 650, for exercises and in the afternoon a newer 640. The main difference is the size of the 640 guitar body...7/8. The advantage lies in the smaller guitar body for me as a 163cm person.
Very informative video- Great speaking voice, BTW- ...as far as the actual Sound in Recordings / studios and World Stages- Are there any professional Classical guitarists playings 3/4 scale exclusively ? ...I'm considering a 565 mm 3/4 scale. ..my only concern is when playing with others- will my Tone sound out of tune if the rest of the band is playing Standard scale?
There are lots of pros playing smaller scale guitars these days. You won't sound 'out of tune' as you can use the same tuning as usual. Smaller instruments will affect the sound/tone a bit but that can either be in a good way or a bad way depending on your preferences. The string tension of your normal strings will be a bit different but you can adjust that by changing the tension you buy.
thx for the reply- right now- i'm still using my '85 Yamaha 525-CE- ...basically a Gibson Scale- Classical cutaway Spruce Top - with a slightly narrower nut width- makes it optimum for smaller wrists / hands- - these guitars sound Master Class when plugged in at small venues - and are very similar to the highly regarded Chet Atkins cutaway's in playability and response/dynamics @@Thisisclassicalguitar
I'm most likely going to buy a 640mm. I feel like my guitar is a little difficult to play, but as you said it's likely because of inaccuracy and tension. I do notice tension. And I do notice that when I play totally confident and relaxed, I play so much better than when I'm straining. But everything I've read suggests that, based on my hand measurements, a 640mm would be best for me. An important thing to note that didn't make it in this video is that a shorter scale guitar usually has a narrower neck too. I would assume that's noticeable if you have slightly shorter fingers. Some odd chords spanning from the low E to the high e can be much more difficult than actually stretching your fingers up several frets. I'm hoping that a slightly narrower neck will make things slightly more comfortable. And in my case, another reason I'm leaning towards 640 instead of something smaller is because, for the model I'm looking at, the body size of the 640 is actually the same as the 650, so there will be a less noticeable difference in tone. Going down to 635 and lower, the body's get smaller too.
it's not thet it makes you better... just that it stops making your hands hurt i have been playing for 17 years, and was told to get a 590 mm guitar when i got in Music School... well, i never did buy a smaller guitar til today. I realize I should have done that sooner. . . you have no idea how much it hur my hands... Each time I ended at the hospital with pain 12 out of 10. . . Of course I am 5 3¨with arthritis since i was a kid
First position nearly wrecked my wrist, as an adult noob, with a full size. Before giving up, I purchased a crossover/650/48mm nut. If you can PLAY the guitar, you can practice more and eventually become a better player. ;) As my technique continues to improve, I'd like to try a full size one more time. Thanks for the videos!
Bradford I have come across several youtube and guitar site forums that say all you need to do to shorten the scale length on you standard 650mm guitar is to (1)Install high tension strings (2)then instead of using standard tuning for the strings to just down tune all six strings one whole step and capo the 2nd fret. This method they say works for shortening the stretch for some players that have smaller hands and can be beneficial to players with small tip to tip distances between the pinky and the index finger. The only issue you run into is if you are playing a very complicated piece that has notes below the 11th fret. This way you can avoid purchasing a new smaller scale model and keep your current guitar.
Thanks a lot for this video. This subject has been intriguing me for a very long time. I still have a few thoughts (questions) from my side: 1. I wonder if you can input on the impact on the sound quality (tone, timbre) , the motive in my case was clearly the comfortability of left hand, reducing the bottle necks for the pieces I love to play. But my major concern is if ( and how much) the sacrifice on the timbre would be. 2. Even 10mm shorter does not sound much after spreading over 650mm, I calculated as ~0.5mm shorter for the 1st position between 2 scales, but considering a stretch between 7th position to 12th (110mm), it creates 10x (110/650)= 1.7mm, I think it is quite a significant shortening. 3. I am not short, but I have smaller hands in proportion to my height and worse still is the expansion between fingers. I think there are differences between physical conditions, so it may be reasonable to consider a custom sized guitar when you can find one.
I'm a recent beginner adult with small hands, I got a Yamaha C40 with a 52 mm (2") nut with, 650 mm (Full scale guitar) and it's has been very tiring and frustrating practicing to me, after some minutes my left hand starts to hurt a lot... I know it will improve if I get better in technique but in the meantime, I need to do something to don't give me up on this journey... do you think a smaller guitar (smaller nut with and scale) will help me?
I have a 664mm Ramirez 1a that I love but unfortunately cannot play nearly as well as I can a 640-650mm guitar with a lower action and thinner neck. my reason is that I am double jointed and my thumb bends backward about 100 degrees. I got a really good deal on the wrong guitar for me.
i will speak from the steel string player perspective. even millimiter makes a huge difference. i have normal flattop with 650mm and then gypsy guitar that is 672. if you are comping and using some longer chord voicing you will notice, especially with smaller hands.
All one is really concerned with is the differences between the 1st fret and say the 5th fret. That the playing area affected , as far a long stretches would matter.
What I like about smaller body guitars is the sore I get after playing for a longer time, also have small hands and now I'm looking for a 7 strings classic guitar and the narrow of the neck will be more important for me because is really hard for me to be able to reach the 7th string in a regular 7 strings classical guitar, it just wont work no matter how relaxed my hands are. But I'm really into brazilian samba and chorinho so I'm talking to some luthiers to get that sorted for me, a narrow neck will be more noticeable than a short scale, but I also like the loose of the strings too though. But nice to have some other people comments around that too
Let me correct you...scale length is inside of the nut to the top of the 12th fret, then double that measurement. Inside of the nut to the bridge bone, as you indicated, is the string length. Many luthiers put a 2mm or so set back in the string length for intonation. There really in not much difference in length between a 640mm and even a 660mm. if you look at it from the playing area, 1st fret to say 5th fret. You can't think of it as say 10mm difference, 650mm vs 640mm. Personally, I like the longer scales, 660mm 665mm. I have a small hand but have no issues with that scale. Don't judge longer scale instruments by Jose Ramirez. They seem to be difficult to play for reasons not really related to the long scale.
Thanks for your input. I would like to hear your input on my thought... Even 10mm shorter does not sound much after spreading over 650mm, I calculated as ~0.5mm shorter for the 1st position between 2 scales, but considering a stretch between 7th position to 12th (110mm), it creates 10x (110/650)= 1.7mm, I think it is quite a significant shortening.
I’m seriously considering a Cordoba C9 parlor guitar. I haven’t played classical guitar in 6 years, so I don’t think the scale change will affect me because of the time away from classical. I don’t have small hands nor large hands, as I’m 5’11” tall. I just think I would like the body size and the ease and comfort it could potentially offer. I’m ready to hit the purchase button, but still hesitant. Tough decision.
Ya, obviously trying one out in person is the best idea. No rush, take the time to think about it. Also, consider buying from someone with a good return policy.
Smaller scales will speed up your playing- your fingers get there faster and the sustain isn't as long- and you can generally play them longer is what I have found. I explored them after getting into ukes- I played even down to Cordoba 580, but found that too small and the sound weak- the 3/4 has been a good in the car and coffee shop PT beater, but then I was having trouble quickly jumping back to full size. 7/8 is a good alternative and not hard o transition back, the sound is good- so I've gradually worked back up the past few years and 7/8 is my car/beater playing time guitar . How strong are your hands? I broke fingers in my youth and can't play full size with good stretch. How exacting are you with the classical style? Other guitar types lead to other styles I find. Variety is good, Explore and have fun.
A Cordoba Coco 7/8 guitar is interesting because it is inexpensive- didn't catch on and a lot of new looking used on the market- and it is 430 w/ 14 frets to the body. With a spruce top, it isn't as loud or sustaining as a Dolce. I usually play the Dolce more these days and will get another if it ever braeks.
I've found that if I make a three minute video with super tight content it will often lack context and the amount of questions I end up answering in the comment section is way more work than making a video with the information plus a discussion covering more of the subtle context. There are plenty of channels that just give the straight up info though, not hard to find these days.
At what point would you advice a new player to commit and get guitar in the $450 - 550 price range. I have a very cheap budget guitar to start with and not sure when a better quality guitar will my learning.
I disagree also. I can play a lot more stuff on a smaller guitar. For a professional like yourself, no problem because your fingers are in good shape. For us amateurs, we need all the help we can get without the training. But a smaller guitar usually gives a weaker sound. My solution 6 years ago was to get a high quality full sized classical guitar with a cut out, and place a capo a couple frets up. I got the equivalent of a smaller guitar but with a big sound, or remove the capo anytime i feel like. I have not touched my smaller guitar since then. It had only half the sound as my present guitar. When I wanted a really great sound, i played in the bathroom (sounds like in a cathedral).
I hate to keep bothering you with questions, but regarding body size, how long is the Scott guitar from top to bottom, and how wide is the lower bout? I'm looking into shorter scale/smaller body have tried a Kenny Hill "Torres" size (nice--but the width at the nut at 50mm seemed too narrow even for my hands, and I would have preferred 7/8 to its 3/4 size). And I'm also considering a 650mm scale "Hauser" copy mainly for the reasons you give: it's about 3/4 of an inch shorter than the Adalid 12 I currently play.
All I need is just a little bit to be more comfortable and thus more relax and thus get the habit. I guess I take 12-18mm less over my strat for my acoustic. so a 7/8 sounds like what I should be looking for. Should maybe 2mm for cowboy chords, but that is already 1mm more than I actually would need to be comfortable. ^_^ Playing more comfortable means I can practise playing chord changes more without the fear of getting tendonitis again, practicing them more means doing them more relaxed and being relaxed is the key to bigger stretches and thus my goal of playing chords and bass moves on stop closer. I hope my weird logic checks out ... or at least convinces my wife why I need another guitar! ;-) Thanks for that video.
Totally depends on the reasons why you would be using a smaller one and the teacher you are studying with. That said, if the instrument is of decent quality and not obviously too small for you to play properly I don't think any teacher would mind.
@@Thisisclassicalguitar Just to understand better where you are coming from with your experience and how it can relate to mine, as my finger spread is approximately the same and I've been thinking of buying a 630mm scale cg
I have short fingers, and barre chords are pretty difficult for me (I know they are for everybody). My problem is usually that my index finger is too short to place in the perfect spot for making all the strings sound clearly when forming a standard major barre chord covering all strings. Would a smaller guitar help with this? Or maybe a more narrow nut?
Maybe but maybe not. I have a similar issue but the first thing I always ask people is: do you practice barre exercises everyday? So a variety of exercises every day for an extended period? Of course, be careful and take lots of breaks so you don't injure yourself. Only like 2-5 minutes a day.
At what height would a short scale be considered more comfortable? I am 5'7 (which, I guess, is average height, but for a woman) and have a very short torso. I am contemplating getting a parlour guitar because I feel like it might be a better feel, but have no way to test it out with the stores being closed for the pandemic.
are there regular width fretboards that are on short scale and smaller body guitars like 3/4 size? I'm interested in 3/4 or 7/8 but don't want the fretboard to be more narrow . cheers
Anything is possible with guitars made by a luthier. In general, the companies tend to make the necks smaller. My guitar is pretty much a normal sized fretboard despite the smaller body and 632mm scale length.
With 640mm, with the same strings, and same tuning, you will have less tension in strings, therefore… it is different. Maybe you will feel easier to play because strings are tensioned less. For example, I am 5’10” and I bought small guitar with 577mm scale, just because it is small, lightweight, and it is “couch guitar”. And I ordered high tension strings for it: it would be high tension for 650mm, but for 577mm and standard tuning… let’s try ;)
Ya, so many strings with varied tension so I think the string tension doesn't really matter unless you are completed married to a particular string (for which I am not).
Hi, thanks for sharing your insights! Really love your channel and content! Please keep it up. I have a question about Alhambra 5P 7/8 which I'm currently thinking of buying it for my sister. I'm not sure if it would be comfortable for her to play on that guitar (she's about 5 ft tall). Or would you still recommend the Cordoba C9 Parlor? Looking for a good intermediate level guitar under $1000.
Well, first thing you have to do is let it heal. I would say the next thing is to examine why and how you got it in the first place and see if changing your technique as well as how you practice. I get it too so have to make sure I take breaks and switch repetitive activities up so I don't re-injure myself.
Agreed!! I have been playing on Alhambra’s and other Spanish guitar for 14 years and it’s tricky because the Spanish guitars project more because of that particular guitars range. When I play a senorita short scale guitar my right arm is comfortable plus the nut width is nice but I find the that the range is less than a larger 650 scale Spanish guitar like my Alhambra because of the body type. Great video!!
@@Thisisclassicalguitar Thanks. From what you are saying distances between frets are practically the same. It does not help ease of play / playability. How about narrower/shorter nut like 50,2 ? Willone feel difference between 52 vs 50,2 mm nut? I gather nut width translates into somewhat different sting spacing, but can one feel the difference ?
Hi. What is the clothe between the guitar and your thigh? What's it for and what is the material that it's made of? Thanks for sharing the info on small scale guitars. Can this fit in on an airplane's overhead bin? Thanks again.
It just keeps the guitar from slipping around on the leg. It's kind of essential. It's shelving cloth from a hardware store, it's a foam-like material. I bought mine at Home Hardware in Canada.
Short people can have longer fingers and comfortable with full size guitar or vice versa. My little fingers are about 2.5” so no way I can be comfortable with a full size. Hence, 3/4 is reasonable for me. There is something got to give but enjoy playing guitar is more important for me.
This is classical guitar channel but scale lenght means much more in electric guitar. Bending is easier cause string tension is lower. I have Yamaha APX-6NA nylon string guitar which has nut 47mm it is faster to play legato than usual classical guitar. It has advantages for mainly electric guitarist like me. I think that guitar tells you if suits or not. Some guitars I can't play barre chords even minutes and my hand get tired. Neck profile is important to me. Of course smaller hands needs short scale guitar why torture yourself ? Playing should be enjoyable not just pain. Armrest in guitar is also ergonomic thing.
I wouldn't say it means much more in electric guitar, and I have been playing electric for something like 17+ years. I started on a Squier and now play a Les Paul, which is a shorter scale. I would argue the opposite actually. A lighter gauge string is an cheap and simple way to make bends easier on most any guitar. Increasing strength will help too, which is something that happens naturally anyway. Also, using additional fingers to assist with bends is common. With classical guitar, the scale discussion is about being able to reach up and across the fretboard. Something that can't be helped by equipping lower-tension strings. I agree about nut width being significant. One reason I want to drop from a 650mm guitar to a 640mm guitar is for the slightly-narrower neck profile.
@@ClassicalPan agree, lighter strings like 009 (even 008) helps much more. Small electric guitar would only help if one is trying to reproduce solos from alien long-fingered guitar heroes like Paul Gilbert, Steve Vai, etc
Bradford, I know you've spoken about your small hands before. How wide is the spread of your hands from pinkie to thumb tip (not stretched to the max but a comfortable stretch--much as you might get when playing)? Mine is 7.5 inches, which I've read calls for a 630mm scale.
Mine is about 8 inches but we pretty much never require anything that big. I mean, the standard scale length is just fine for me. Scale length does not affect the length between the frets very much but does bring the headstock in closer which is nice.
@@Thisisclassicalguitar Yes, I noted your comments to that effect in the video--and I've experienced the same thing when I switch to my Adalid 12 (39 inches long overall) from Kenny Hill "Torres" Performance model (38 in.). The funny thing is, the Hill's scale, though comfortable, seems cramped because of the 50mm at the nut. Maybe that's a bigger consideration than many might think. I almost feel relieved when I pick up the Adalid with it's 52mm width!
One technical consideration might be that shorter scale length instruments are harder to keep in tune. This has been noticed and discussed more by steel string guitar players -- probably because they frequently play with other instruments in groups. Most noticed are Gibsons with 24.7 inch (627.4 mm) scale length vs. the standard Fender at 25.5 inch (647.7 mm). Also, even though the scale is shortened the frets usually remain the same the same height as the longer scaled guitar. The implication is that the string stretch to fret a note causes a greater string tension as a percentage of scale length possibly generating a slightly different intonation that intended. The harder you press the frets the more noticeable this would be so proper technique would be more important. I think the longer scale length sounds better. This is a personal impression of course. I have trouble going from playing a shorter scale back to playing a longer scale without working up to it. Going the other way isn't as much trouble. Thanks for the video.
Interesting. There are no problems with mine, it must have to do with the luthier because there all sorts of different string lengths in guitar, uke, violin, cello etc. My has great intonation.
The luthier must have accounted for it with the fret spacing and saddle position. Also, your technique is at a high level. You're only pressing down right behind the fret with enough force to make the tone. A beginner would be gripping the neck like he wanted to choke it with a lot of tension and not necessarily just behind the fret. Instruments without frets like the violin & cello don't have the problem of course. The player notes be ear or uses vibrato if it's close. The uke is in a separate category since its frets are so small. To be honest, I've never heard one play in tune ... well maybe Jake Shimabukuro: but his uke probable cost more than all my guitars put together.
Thanks for the good info. The standard classical guitar size suits that of the modern human, and in practice that meant the modern man. Really if we made guitars that suited each person we would measure up the person and make a guitar to suit, as we do for suits. Standard sized guitar especially are an ill fit for many women, but also smaller men (like me). One problem is that the vast majority of small scale guitars are cheapies designed for children. Quite hard to find a good smaller guitar, unless getting a luthier to make one for you. One alternative to is to search out a replica guitar that was used two centuries ago.... when humans were smaller and big sound wasn't the main criteria.
Totally depends on the player's level, nails, technique, and preference. I always start with clear nylon and then change it based on weather I want a brighter or warmer sound. My string reviews: www.thisisclassicalguitar.com/review-classical-guitar-strings/
With respect, you seem to contradict what you advise regarding stretches in this video compared to what you say in your review of the Cordoba C9 Parlour. Here you say that the spacing of frets is barely perceptible and so stretches are not made easier, but in your review of the Cordoba C9 Parlour you tell us that stretches are much easier. My only reason to buy a parlour guitar are to ease stretches. I find myself somewhat confused now!
Well, I would caution people about their expectations. If you by a short scale guitar the stretches might be slightly more comfortable but still difficult. Try putting a capo on your guitar at the first fret and try out some stretches, similar to a shorter scale.
While talking about the disadvantages of a small guitar you explain again what will not happen and what not to wait for. But you never told a single word about what will actually be worse. In other words, why regular people buy normal sized guitars and not 3/4? They must be somehow better? Are they?
There is nothing better or worse about full size or small scale guitars but there are certainly differences. Actually, the old generation of guitarists often played 660mm scale lengths but that is almost unheard of today in the pro circuit. Now the standard is 650mm. But we are now seeing many more people play on 640mm or 630mm. The sound tends to be focused and maybe a bit less in the bass register but design plays such a huge part that generalizations are not all that useful anymore.
The guitar is a mini orchestra and one must do some research as to why it is considered so. To sum up, it doesn't really matter, unless the scale length is greater than 650 mm. Of course if you have very small hands even 640 mm would be hard to reach specially with chords! A 400 mm lower body bout width a maximum depth of 100 mm will have a better frequency response, and also comfortable to manage. Once you have the notes in your head or subconscious, you will somehow reach every note; though some chords could be difficult to hold on to. You can of course omit some notes without compromising on the harmony. Huge stretches don't make one a good player but the leading note is important. I would like to see a solo guitar player with small hands delivering a tasteful musical package! It's worth considering that most grand pianos sound great because of the longer string length. Forget the hype and make music to please. Many great composers and arrangers like to listen to a good solo guitarist because their "inner ear" compensates for some missing notes.
Sorry if that is confusing, I tried to explain it in the video that string length is the same as scale length. To get the scale length we measure the string from nut to saddle.
Wow! A classical guitar has a 660 scale for a reason. The greatest guitarist I know use 660 guitars and they are short and have small hands. So if you are playing less than a 660 you are cheating and it shows in the tone. Practice and you will be able to play a real guitar.
I don't know a single pro who plays on a 660mm anymore, nor do I know of any luthiers really making them anymore. Also, in my humble opinion, I don't think the idea of it being a "real guitar" is all that valid. If I hear someone play a 630mm and it sounds great, and they sound great, isn't it...great? Tone is subject to personal preference, some like a small, tight and focused sound and other like a big, round, reverberant sound. I wouldn't say one is better. Maybe one is more traditional if you are listening to guitarists from 50 years ago though.
You are wrong. No amount of practice will overcome playing on a scale length which is too long for your fingers. You are also wrong in your opinion about 660. It is not the standard for modern classical guitars. 650mm is the standard. However, more and more players are playing 640, 630 or even shorter scale lengths.
Hi, I’m interested in buying a 3/4 guitar but I want to change the rosette on it. My question to you is: are all the rosette diameter size the same? I want to order one online but I’m not sure the dimensions..
Difficult to say, you don't want to push the strings too close to the edge of the frets. I would ask a luthier. You might be able to change the string spacing a bit but I would assume the nut itself will have to be a specific size.
I purchased a shorter scale (630mm) guitar due to having relatively smaller hands and let me tell you... it makes all the difference in the world. I had no idea how much more comfortable it would make playing. Now... let me tell you... I honestly only use this guitar for playing repertoire. I still practice diligently on my standard scale guitar in order to strengthen fingers and improve stretches. After I practice many hours of finger exercises on my standard guitar, I reward myself by playing on the shorter scale guitar (which I use solely for playing repertoire). I find this arrangement ideal, as I find that after my stamina is used up from hours of speed drills, hammer-ons and pull-offs, I am able to work on pieces on the smaller scale guitar with much enjoyment.
that makes perfect sense- ...just like a. Baseball player warms up with heavier bats, sometimes- then they can switch up to the lighter bat with extra control / power
This video helped me out considerably, I am a short person also that is why i was going to get a smaller guitar, plus my left shoulder has a metal screw in it so that restricts me some. First I'm going to get me a fairly cheap small guitar, one that the strings will stay tight on, and see if my shoulder will stop me. I'm 71 years old so I better get with it.
I play a 640 Navarro student guitar with a slightly smaller body. I think it did make me a better player, because it made playing more comfortable. That meant better and longer practices, which is why I say it made me better. Also, I’m retired and have a little arthritis in both hands, so easier stretches helped too. Nice video, thanks.
Yes, in the long run it can help to improve playing through relaxation but I'm just so cautious of telling people that it will "fix" anything or more accurately, be a "quick fix".
And I totally agree. It didn’t make me a “virtuoso” overnight, in fact I’m only an intermediate, if even that. But I’m glad to see short scale guitars being talked about, and explained. Nut width plays a role, too. Again, thanks for the informative video.
Agree with you Richard. Having played an old Ramirez 664 scale length, it made a world of difference to me just going to the now standard 650mm.
You’re a really smart guy, and explain the pros and cons of short scale guitars so well. Thanks a bunch!
When I was a kid back in the day, before the internet, I went to a small local guitar shop. I had no clue about anything. I asked the salesman for a recommendation. I bought that guitar and basically never played it for about 2 decades. I was sold a Washburn Western guitar, likely a Dreadnought body. He gave me the worst possible guitar for a 5'3 kid living at home wanting to get started. Huge body, very loud, strings have high tension. I am glad to say, that shop went out of business.
An insightful video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge of short scale classical guitars.
You're welcome, it's something to looking into for many shorter people!
I attempted to learn full-size guitar but lost interest. Now my go-to instrument is ukulele! I feel it is a gateway to guitar.
I disagree: A short scale guitar doesn’t hurt my hands as much and I can play for longer periods of time hence it makes me better.
your wrong. playing for longer periods of time makes you a better player
I tend to agree: an instrument you like more (whether it's because of size, sound or even design or hype) is likely the one you'll be playing more... And the downsides of a smaller instruments seem to be pretty small, ehm.
@@vetham100 You are wrong. A guitar that has rusty strings will hurt your fingers so you can't play for long and you won't be a better player. Same analogy. Even a tiny bit of comfort can add up extra 10 minutes of practice every day can add up eventually. Do not ignore your guitar's playability.
I recently bought a 640mm lattice braced guitar which after playing a 664mm Ramirez 1a for many years is like butter. Playing full barres at the first fret is no longer a drama and at 55 (though I've played since my pre teens) I find my physical limitations are now manifesting themselves. You'll discover this in a couple of decades or so and may well change your views. Being able to play bigger pieces without any difficulty is a dream that was just not feasible on the Ramirez. The sound is different but not unpleasant or unacceptable. I'm glad to have the choice of the shorter scale length when I know that I'm going to need it.
Yes, it's all about finding the right tool that you can use to make music.
Thanks again for this. I didn't even know short scale guitars were a thing! I bought my guitar (I just measured it and it's a 650) when I was a teenager 30 years ago and I stopped playing shortly after. I just recently picked it again up and this is enlightening. I am quite small (167 cm) and have small hands so there are stretches like in "Un día de Noviembre" or in the second section of VillaLobos' Schottish-Choro that are literally physically impossible for me. Thanks for the warning that it won't make me a better player :) but I am getting one of these!
I, too, have problems with stretches in Un Dia de Noviembre, and that's why I'm considering a parlor classical. Now I know to look for 630 mm.
Thank you. Answers many of my questions.
I have been using my first guitar, a 650, for exercises and in the afternoon a newer 640. The main difference is the size of the 640 guitar body...7/8. The advantage lies in the smaller guitar body for me as a 163cm person.
Very informative video- Great speaking voice, BTW- ...as far as the actual Sound in Recordings / studios and World Stages- Are there any professional Classical guitarists playings 3/4 scale exclusively ? ...I'm considering a 565 mm 3/4 scale. ..my only concern is when playing with others- will my Tone sound out of tune if the rest of the band is playing Standard scale?
There are lots of pros playing smaller scale guitars these days. You won't sound 'out of tune' as you can use the same tuning as usual. Smaller instruments will affect the sound/tone a bit but that can either be in a good way or a bad way depending on your preferences. The string tension of your normal strings will be a bit different but you can adjust that by changing the tension you buy.
thx for the reply- right now- i'm still using my '85 Yamaha 525-CE- ...basically a Gibson Scale- Classical cutaway Spruce Top - with a slightly narrower nut width- makes it optimum for smaller wrists / hands- - these guitars sound Master Class when plugged in at small venues - and are very similar to the highly regarded Chet Atkins cutaway's in playability and response/dynamics @@Thisisclassicalguitar
The way i understand this is: more comfortable = better for joints and body & helps you be more relaxed = makes it easier to become better
I'm most likely going to buy a 640mm. I feel like my guitar is a little difficult to play, but as you said it's likely because of inaccuracy and tension. I do notice tension. And I do notice that when I play totally confident and relaxed, I play so much better than when I'm straining. But everything I've read suggests that, based on my hand measurements, a 640mm would be best for me. An important thing to note that didn't make it in this video is that a shorter scale guitar usually has a narrower neck too. I would assume that's noticeable if you have slightly shorter fingers. Some odd chords spanning from the low E to the high e can be much more difficult than actually stretching your fingers up several frets. I'm hoping that a slightly narrower neck will make things slightly more comfortable.
And in my case, another reason I'm leaning towards 640 instead of something smaller is because, for the model I'm looking at, the body size of the 640 is actually the same as the 650, so there will be a less noticeable difference in tone. Going down to 635 and lower, the body's get smaller too.
it's not thet it makes you better... just that it stops making your hands hurt
i have been playing for 17 years, and was told to get a 590 mm guitar when i got in Music School... well, i never did buy a smaller guitar til today. I realize I should have done that sooner. . . you have no idea how much it hur my hands... Each time I ended at the hospital with pain 12 out of 10. . . Of course I am 5 3¨with arthritis since i was a kid
I have a 580mm scale guitar. Love it!
First position nearly wrecked my wrist, as an adult noob, with a full size. Before giving up, I purchased a crossover/650/48mm nut. If you can PLAY the guitar, you can practice more and eventually become a better player. ;) As my technique continues to improve, I'd like to try a full size one more time. Thanks for the videos!
Try stewmac fret calculator! Compare numbers of 650mm vs. 640mm. Your dilemma will be solved, just like mine. Cheers! Thanks for sharing this video!
Bradford I have come across several youtube and guitar site forums that say all you need to do to shorten the scale length on you standard 650mm guitar is to
(1)Install high tension strings
(2)then instead of using standard tuning for the strings to just down tune all six strings one whole step and capo the 2nd fret. This method they say works for shortening the stretch for some players that have smaller hands and can be beneficial to players with small tip to tip distances between the pinky and the index finger. The only issue you run into is if you are playing a very complicated piece that has notes below the 11th fret. This way you can avoid purchasing a new smaller scale model and keep your current guitar.
Yes, a capo works in a similar fashion. However, the instrument itself is sometimes smaller in small scale guitars that are 630mm or less.
Thanks a lot for this video. This subject has been intriguing me for a very long time. I still have a few thoughts (questions) from my side:
1. I wonder if you can input on the impact on the sound quality (tone, timbre) , the motive in my case was clearly the comfortability of left hand, reducing the bottle necks for the pieces I love to play. But my major concern is if ( and how much) the sacrifice on the timbre would be.
2. Even 10mm shorter does not sound much after spreading over 650mm, I calculated as ~0.5mm shorter for the 1st position between 2 scales, but considering a stretch between 7th position to 12th (110mm), it creates 10x (110/650)= 1.7mm, I think it is quite a significant shortening.
3. I am not short, but I have smaller hands in proportion to my height and worse still is the expansion between fingers. I think there are differences between physical conditions, so it may be reasonable to consider a custom sized guitar when you can find one.
I'm a recent beginner adult with small hands, I got a Yamaha C40 with a 52 mm (2") nut with, 650 mm (Full scale guitar) and it's has been very tiring and frustrating practicing to me, after some minutes my left hand starts to hurt a lot... I know it will improve if I get better in technique but in the meantime, I need to do something to don't give me up on this journey... do you think a smaller guitar (smaller nut with and scale) will help me?
I think why not give shorter string a try. I am planning to get one 640mm.
I have a 664mm Ramirez 1a that I love but unfortunately cannot play nearly as well as I can a 640-650mm guitar with a lower action and thinner neck. my reason is that I am double jointed and my thumb bends backward about 100 degrees. I got a really good deal on the wrong guitar for me.
Ya, those big old guitars are pretty intense.
i will speak from the steel string player perspective. even millimiter makes a huge difference. i have normal flattop with 650mm and then gypsy guitar that is 672. if you are comping and using some longer chord voicing you will notice, especially with smaller hands.
All one is really concerned with is the differences between the 1st fret and say the 5th fret. That the playing area affected , as far a long stretches would matter.
What I like about smaller body guitars is the sore I get after playing for a longer time, also have small hands and now I'm looking for a 7 strings classic guitar and the narrow of the neck will be more important for me because is really hard for me to be able to reach the 7th string in a regular 7 strings classical guitar, it just wont work no matter how relaxed my hands are. But I'm really into brazilian samba and chorinho so I'm talking to some luthiers to get that sorted for me, a narrow neck will be more noticeable than a short scale, but I also like the loose of the strings too though. But nice to have some other people comments around that too
Let me correct you...scale length is inside of the nut to the top of the 12th fret, then double that measurement. Inside of the nut to the bridge bone, as you indicated, is the string length. Many luthiers put a 2mm or so set back in the string length for intonation. There really in not much difference in length between a 640mm and even a 660mm. if you look at it from the playing area, 1st fret to say 5th fret. You can't think of it as say 10mm difference, 650mm vs 640mm. Personally, I like the longer scales, 660mm 665mm. I have a small hand but have no issues with that scale. Don't judge longer scale instruments by Jose Ramirez. They seem to be difficult to play for reasons not really related to the long scale.
Thanks for your input. I would like to hear your input on my thought... Even 10mm shorter does not sound much after spreading over 650mm, I calculated as ~0.5mm shorter for the 1st position between 2 scales, but considering a stretch between 7th position to 12th (110mm), it creates 10x (110/650)= 1.7mm, I think it is quite a significant shortening.
I’m seriously considering a Cordoba C9 parlor guitar. I haven’t played classical guitar in 6 years, so I don’t think the scale change will affect me because of the time away from classical. I don’t have small hands nor large hands, as I’m 5’11” tall. I just think I would like the body size and the ease and comfort it could potentially offer. I’m ready to hit the purchase button, but still hesitant. Tough decision.
Ya, obviously trying one out in person is the best idea. No rush, take the time to think about it. Also, consider buying from someone with a good return policy.
Smaller scales will speed up your playing- your fingers get there faster and the sustain isn't as long- and you can generally play them longer is what I have found. I explored them after getting into ukes- I played even down to Cordoba 580, but found that too small and the sound weak- the 3/4 has been a good in the car and coffee shop PT beater, but then I was having trouble quickly jumping back to full size. 7/8 is a good alternative and not hard o transition back, the sound is good- so I've gradually worked back up the past few years and 7/8 is my car/beater playing time guitar . How strong are your hands? I broke fingers in my youth and can't play full size with good stretch. How exacting are you with the classical style? Other guitar types lead to other styles I find. Variety is good, Explore and have fun.
A Cordoba Coco 7/8 guitar is interesting because it is inexpensive- didn't catch on and a lot of new looking used on the market- and it is 430 w/ 14 frets to the body. With a spruce top, it isn't as loud or sustaining as a Dolce. I usually play the Dolce more these days and will get another if it ever braeks.
Thanks for these comments, I have the coco 7/8 and I’m looking at the dolce at the moment. I love the look of the cedar dolce
Hey thanks a lot for these explanations. Would have been nice though to show the guitar next to a 4/4 one. Maybe next time ;) Thanks again for the vid
True, although it's all down to millimetres so the difference is less visual than you might think...
This is Classical Guitar ah okay. Hope to get the chance to try one someday, it’s unfortunately not common at all in south of France 😩
Three minutes of information over 9:22. "right" ?
I've found that if I make a three minute video with super tight content it will often lack context and the amount of questions I end up answering in the comment section is way more work than making a video with the information plus a discussion covering more of the subtle context. There are plenty of channels that just give the straight up info though, not hard to find these days.
It makes sense! Thank you!
Thank you, this is very helpful information
I think the nylon short scale is fine, but in steel it is tense and harder to play.
I also play steel string guitars. I prefer 24.9 over the typical 25.4.
At what point would you advice a new player to commit and get guitar in the $450 - 550 price range. I have a very cheap budget guitar to start with and not sure when a better quality guitar will my learning.
is it 4/4?
Hello,
Is it possible for you to review Córdoba Mini nylon string guitar? Thanks
If I get my hands on one I certainly will.
I disagree also. I can play a lot more stuff on a smaller guitar. For a professional like yourself, no problem because your fingers are in good shape. For us amateurs, we need all the help we can get without the training. But a smaller guitar usually gives a weaker sound. My solution 6 years ago was to get a high quality full sized classical guitar with a cut out, and place a capo a couple frets up. I got the equivalent of a smaller guitar but with a big sound, or remove the capo anytime i feel like. I have not touched my smaller guitar since then. It had only half the sound as my present guitar. When I wanted a really great sound, i played in the bathroom (sounds like in a cathedral).
Great tip man! I think I'm going to do that on my ibanez ga35tce. Just put a capo on the first fret.
I hate to keep bothering you with questions, but regarding body size, how long is the Scott guitar from top to bottom, and how wide is the lower bout? I'm looking into shorter scale/smaller body have tried a Kenny Hill "Torres" size (nice--but the width at the nut at 50mm seemed too narrow even for my hands, and I would have preferred 7/8 to its 3/4 size). And I'm also considering a 650mm scale "Hauser" copy mainly for the reasons you give: it's about 3/4 of an inch shorter than the Adalid 12 I currently play.
All I need is just a little bit to be more comfortable and thus more relax and thus get the habit. I guess I take 12-18mm less over my strat for my acoustic. so a 7/8 sounds like what I should be looking for. Should maybe 2mm for cowboy chords, but that is already 1mm more than I actually would need to be comfortable. ^_^
Playing more comfortable means I can practise playing chord changes more without the fear of getting tendonitis again, practicing them more means doing them more relaxed and being relaxed is the key to bigger stretches and thus my goal of playing chords and bass moves on stop closer.
I hope my weird logic checks out ... or at least convinces my wife why I need another guitar! ;-)
Thanks for that video.
What is the model of your guitar?
Would you know if conservatories require you to specifically use a full-sized classical guitar?
Totally depends on the reasons why you would be using a smaller one and the teacher you are studying with. That said, if the instrument is of decent quality and not obviously too small for you to play properly I don't think any teacher would mind.
How much is your finger spread from tip of your pinky to thumb tip?
Approximately 8 inches why?
@@Thisisclassicalguitar Just to understand better where you are coming from with your experience and how it can relate to mine, as my finger spread is approximately the same and I've been thinking of buying a 630mm scale cg
I have short fingers, and barre chords are pretty difficult for me (I know they are for everybody). My problem is usually that my index finger is too short to place in the perfect spot for making all the strings sound clearly when forming a standard major barre chord covering all strings. Would a smaller guitar help with this? Or maybe a more narrow nut?
Maybe but maybe not. I have a similar issue but the first thing I always ask people is: do you practice barre exercises everyday? So a variety of exercises every day for an extended period? Of course, be careful and take lots of breaks so you don't injure yourself. Only like 2-5 minutes a day.
what's the nut width on your douglas guitar?
All the info is here: www.thisisclassicalguitar.com/2018-douglass-scott-classical-guitar/
At what height would a short scale be considered more comfortable? I am 5'7 (which, I guess, is average height, but for a woman) and have a very short torso. I am contemplating getting a parlour guitar because I feel like it might be a better feel, but have no way to test it out with the stores being closed for the pandemic.
I don't think it's purely height specific but with 5 feet and under I usually recommend it in general.
are there regular width fretboards that are on short scale and smaller body guitars like 3/4 size? I'm interested in 3/4 or 7/8 but don't want the fretboard to be more narrow . cheers
Anything is possible with guitars made by a luthier. In general, the companies tend to make the necks smaller. My guitar is pretty much a normal sized fretboard despite the smaller body and 632mm scale length.
Dank U . Goede informatie, top .
Thanks!
With 640mm, with the same strings, and same tuning, you will have less tension in strings, therefore… it is different. Maybe you will feel easier to play because strings are tensioned less. For example, I am 5’10” and I bought small guitar with 577mm scale, just because it is small, lightweight, and it is “couch guitar”. And I ordered high tension strings for it: it would be high tension for 650mm, but for 577mm and standard tuning… let’s try ;)
Ya, so many strings with varied tension so I think the string tension doesn't really matter unless you are completed married to a particular string (for which I am not).
Hi, thanks for sharing your insights! Really love your channel and content! Please keep it up. I have a question about Alhambra 5P 7/8 which I'm currently thinking of buying it for my sister. I'm not sure if it would be comfortable for her to play on that guitar (she's about 5 ft tall). Or would you still recommend the Cordoba C9 Parlor? Looking for a good intermediate level guitar under $1000.
I am suffering from tendinitis in my pinky. Do you think a 7/8 guitar could be a help because of the lighter string tension?
Well, first thing you have to do is let it heal. I would say the next thing is to examine why and how you got it in the first place and see if changing your technique as well as how you practice. I get it too so have to make sure I take breaks and switch repetitive activities up so I don't re-injure myself.
A smaller guitar "might" help but you can get tendonitis on a uke so I think there is more to it.
How tall are you?
5'7 maybe? I'm short!
Agreed!! I have been playing on Alhambra’s and other Spanish guitar for 14 years and it’s tricky because the Spanish guitars project more because of that particular guitars range. When I play a senorita short scale guitar my right arm is comfortable plus the nut width is nice but I find the that the range is less than a larger 650 scale Spanish guitar like my Alhambra because of the body type. Great video!!
OK, but how about nut width? Does short scale=smaller/shorter nut like 640/50,2 ?
Totally depends on the luthier/brand. When I had mine on order I could choose full width or reduced, it was totally flexible.
@@Thisisclassicalguitar Thanks. From what you are saying distances between frets are practically the same. It does not help ease of play / playability. How about narrower/shorter nut like 50,2 ? Willone feel difference between 52 vs 50,2 mm nut? I gather nut width translates into somewhat different sting spacing, but can one feel the difference ?
No the stretches at tempo don't last long... But the practice to get there goes on for years.
Many thanks - interesting
Hi. What is the clothe between the guitar and your thigh? What's it for and what is the material that it's made of? Thanks for sharing the info on small scale guitars. Can this fit in on an airplane's overhead bin? Thanks again.
It just keeps the guitar from slipping around on the leg. It's kind of essential. It's shelving cloth from a hardware store, it's a foam-like material. I bought mine at Home Hardware in Canada.
Haha I cut up my wife's yoga mat! Didn't go down well ooops
Short people can have longer fingers and comfortable with full size guitar or vice versa. My little fingers are about 2.5” so no way I can be comfortable with a full size. Hence, 3/4 is reasonable for me. There is something got to give but enjoy playing guitar is more important for me.
This is classical guitar channel but scale lenght means much more in electric guitar. Bending is easier cause string tension is lower. I have Yamaha APX-6NA nylon string guitar which has nut 47mm it is faster to play legato than usual classical guitar. It has advantages for mainly electric guitarist like me.
I think that guitar tells you if suits or not. Some guitars I can't play barre chords even minutes and my hand get tired.
Neck profile is important to me.
Of course smaller hands needs short scale guitar why torture yourself ? Playing should be enjoyable not just pain.
Armrest in guitar is also ergonomic thing.
I wouldn't say it means much more in electric guitar, and I have been playing electric for something like 17+ years. I started on a Squier and now play a Les Paul, which is a shorter scale.
I would argue the opposite actually. A lighter gauge string is an cheap and simple way to make bends easier on most any guitar. Increasing strength will help too, which is something that happens naturally anyway. Also, using additional fingers to assist with bends is common.
With classical guitar, the scale discussion is about being able to reach up and across the fretboard. Something that can't be helped by equipping lower-tension strings.
I agree about nut width being significant. One reason I want to drop from a 650mm guitar to a 640mm guitar is for the slightly-narrower neck profile.
@@ClassicalPan agree, lighter strings like 009 (even 008) helps much more. Small electric guitar would only help if one is trying to reproduce solos from alien long-fingered guitar heroes like Paul Gilbert, Steve Vai, etc
Bradford, I know you've spoken about your small hands before. How wide is the spread of your hands from pinkie to thumb tip (not stretched to the max but a comfortable stretch--much as you might get when playing)? Mine is 7.5 inches, which I've read calls for a 630mm scale.
Mine is about 8 inches but we pretty much never require anything that big. I mean, the standard scale length is just fine for me. Scale length does not affect the length between the frets very much but does bring the headstock in closer which is nice.
@@Thisisclassicalguitar Yes, I noted your comments to that effect in the video--and I've experienced the same thing when I switch to my Adalid 12 (39 inches long overall) from Kenny Hill "Torres" Performance model (38 in.). The funny thing is, the Hill's scale, though comfortable, seems cramped because of the 50mm at the nut. Maybe that's a bigger consideration than many might think. I almost feel relieved when I pick up the Adalid with it's 52mm width!
Thanks
Thanks for watching
One technical consideration might be that shorter scale length instruments are harder to keep in tune. This has been noticed and discussed more by steel string guitar players -- probably because they frequently play with other instruments in groups. Most noticed are Gibsons with 24.7 inch (627.4 mm) scale length vs. the standard Fender at 25.5 inch (647.7 mm). Also, even though the scale is shortened the frets usually remain the same the same height as the longer scaled guitar. The implication is that the string stretch to fret a note causes a greater string tension as a percentage of scale length possibly generating a slightly different intonation that intended. The harder you press the frets the more noticeable this would be so proper technique would be more important.
I think the longer scale length sounds better. This is a personal impression of course. I have trouble going from playing a shorter scale back to playing a longer scale without working up to it. Going the other way isn't as much trouble.
Thanks for the video.
rfcarlson1 Interesting observations. Good to see you here too btw
Interesting. There are no problems with mine, it must have to do with the luthier because there all sorts of different string lengths in guitar, uke, violin, cello etc. My has great intonation.
The luthier must have accounted for it with the fret spacing and saddle position. Also, your technique is at a high level. You're only pressing down right behind the fret with enough force to make the tone. A beginner would be gripping the neck like he wanted to choke it with a lot of tension and not necessarily just behind the fret. Instruments without frets like the violin & cello don't have the problem of course. The player notes be ear or uses vibrato if it's close. The uke is in a separate category since its frets are so small. To be honest, I've never heard one play in tune ... well maybe Jake Shimabukuro: but his uke probable cost more than all my guitars put together.
@@Thisisclassicalguitar On the flip-side, I have a full-scale gutiar that isn't even in tune when it's in tune.
I'm almost six feet tall and I prefer a small scale guitar. My favorite is sold as a parlour guitar.
Hi - thanks for the great video. Did you also make the nut width a little smaller e.g. 50mm as compared with the standard 52mm width?
I think mine is 51mm which is only a mm difference which is not that noticeable.
@@Thisisclassicalguitar Thank you! I'm thinking of a Kenny Hill which is also 51mm
Thanks for the good info. The standard classical guitar size suits that of the modern human, and in practice that meant the modern man. Really if we made guitars that suited each person we would measure up the person and make a guitar to suit, as we do for suits. Standard sized guitar especially are an ill fit for many women, but also smaller men (like me). One problem is that the vast majority of small scale guitars are cheapies designed for children. Quite hard to find a good smaller guitar, unless getting a luthier to make one for you. One alternative to is to search out a replica guitar that was used two centuries ago.... when humans were smaller and big sound wasn't the main criteria.
Hi, what kind of strings do you use and recommend for short scale guitars?
Totally depends on the player's level, nails, technique, and preference. I always start with clear nylon and then change it based on weather I want a brighter or warmer sound. My string reviews: www.thisisclassicalguitar.com/review-classical-guitar-strings/
@@Thisisclassicalguitar Thank you, I will play around with my 62 scale guitar:)Love all your work btw.
With respect, you seem to contradict what you advise regarding stretches in this video compared to what you say in your review of the Cordoba C9 Parlour. Here you say that the spacing of frets is barely perceptible and so stretches are not made easier, but in your review of the Cordoba C9 Parlour you tell us that stretches are much easier. My only reason to buy a parlour guitar are to ease stretches. I find myself somewhat confused now!
Well, I would caution people about their expectations. If you by a short scale guitar the stretches might be slightly more comfortable but still difficult. Try putting a capo on your guitar at the first fret and try out some stretches, similar to a shorter scale.
@@Thisisclassicalguitar thanks for the reply .. I will experiment with a capo to get a feel for shorter scale length.
While talking about the disadvantages of a small guitar you explain again what will not happen and what not to wait for. But you never told a single word about what will actually be worse. In other words, why regular people buy normal sized guitars and not 3/4? They must be somehow better? Are they?
There is nothing better or worse about full size or small scale guitars but there are certainly differences. Actually, the old generation of guitarists often played 660mm scale lengths but that is almost unheard of today in the pro circuit. Now the standard is 650mm. But we are now seeing many more people play on 640mm or 630mm. The sound tends to be focused and maybe a bit less in the bass register but design plays such a huge part that generalizations are not all that useful anymore.
@@Thisisclassicalguitar thank you for the answer!
It just means your hands are not short enough. If you had, absolutely a short scale guitar makes you the better player.
The guitar is a mini orchestra and one must do some research as to why it is considered so.
To sum up, it doesn't really matter, unless the scale length is greater than 650 mm.
Of course if you have very small hands even 640 mm would be hard to reach specially with chords!
A 400 mm lower body bout width a maximum depth of 100 mm will have a better frequency response, and also comfortable to manage.
Once you have the notes in your head or subconscious, you will somehow reach every note; though some chords could be difficult to hold on to. You can of course omit some notes without compromising on the harmony.
Huge stretches don't make one a good player but the leading note is important.
I would like to see a solo guitar player with small hands delivering a tasteful musical package!
It's worth considering that most grand pianos sound great because of the longer string length.
Forget the hype and make music to please.
Many great composers and arrangers like to listen to a good solo guitarist because their "inner ear" compensates for some missing notes.
More comfortable = better playing in my book... I play better when I'm comfortable and it seems that you think short scale are more comfortable 😊👍😎
That's true, I guess I'm trying to let people know that it won't solve everything...expectations...
Wait till you are 66. Short scale....24" electric, 615mm Nylon....much nicer...for me.....now I should go measure my lute.
A bit rambling; absolutely!
But the worst part was you didn't talk about String Length!
Sorry if that is confusing, I tried to explain it in the video that string length is the same as scale length. To get the scale length we measure the string from nut to saddle.
True. smaller guitars do not uplift your performance by 100%
Wow! A classical guitar has a 660 scale for a reason. The greatest guitarist I know use 660 guitars and they are short and have small hands. So if you are playing less than a 660 you are cheating and it shows in the tone. Practice and you will be able to play a real guitar.
I don't know a single pro who plays on a 660mm anymore, nor do I know of any luthiers really making them anymore. Also, in my humble opinion, I don't think the idea of it being a "real guitar" is all that valid. If I hear someone play a 630mm and it sounds great, and they sound great, isn't it...great? Tone is subject to personal preference, some like a small, tight and focused sound and other like a big, round, reverberant sound. I wouldn't say one is better. Maybe one is more traditional if you are listening to guitarists from 50 years ago though.
You are wrong. No amount of practice will overcome playing on a scale length which is too long for your fingers.
You are also wrong in your opinion about 660. It is not the standard for modern classical guitars. 650mm is the standard. However, more and more players are playing 640, 630 or even shorter scale lengths.
Hi, I’m interested in buying a 3/4 guitar but I want to change the rosette on it. My question to you is: are all the rosette diameter size the same? I want to order one online but I’m not sure the dimensions..
Also can I add a wider nut like 52mm on a 3/4 guitar?
You will want to measure it specifically. I would assume they come in all shapes and sizes.
Difficult to say, you don't want to push the strings too close to the edge of the frets. I would ask a luthier. You might be able to change the string spacing a bit but I would assume the nut itself will have to be a specific size.