One of the biggest things I’ve learned doing it myself in the garage is to have a zone the little kids know not to go. The engine stands and the kid scare the hell out of me.
Ya oven cleaner works great. It can burn your throat and lungs though. Word to the wise : practice holding your breath and try to spray down wind. Any effort to keep it off your skin will also be beneficial.
My highschool shop teacher taught us to always put the bolts back where they came out of if ever possible. Also if you're ever unsure on a bolt length, there is usually about a half inch of threads that are in the hole holding the part on when fully seated.
That doesnt work when you are sending out blocks or heads for machine work, the machine shop will either want them removed or worse still lose them. I put the bolts in sandwich bags and mark them with a marking pen or a tag in the bag.
Manifold/header bolts get replaced every time. Head bolts should be but usually aren't, intake manifold you can literally use 1" bolts from tractor supply on all of them as long as you know the thread pitch, and accessories you can generally figure out by if it tightens up or doesn't reach the threads.
I do that a lot when it suites me but when I'm dealing with long bolts, I try to avoid screwing them back in a casting because if it gets dropped or jarred hard enough, it could break the casting.
As a kid my job was always to clean up the parts before the teardown or reassembly, chemical of choice was always gasoline lol I was amazed the first time I saw how easily it would break down all oil grease and grime, just make sure you're not near any open flames
Tony speaks the truth regarding Motronic and wiring - I've seen plugs (usually coolant temp sensors) swapped around more times then I care to remember..... and I'm 25.
Laying out parts and bolts as theyre removed in order is the way to go for sure. I usually scrape the heavy gunk off with a putty knife before getting it wet. 10 ways to get there...LOL
as a young guy learning first bike on a 88 carburated honda shadow, your content is gold. I consume your content like food so I wanna thank you Tony. ur a real one.
@@4VengeanceV When some explanations things non stop and never has any real show of what he has done in the end.. Also he has cars that are slow as dog shit
Better man than me UT, I worked at an engine reconditoners & EVERY bolt went into a basket (Head bolts, cap bolts, pan bolts etc.) & then into the hot tank. Just sort them out later! Line all the bolts up according to size, type, length etc! :D
Episode 2. Taking stuff apart is so much fun. Putting it all back together is not so much fun without a photographic memory. I’d better get back to my project soon before I forget where everything goes.
In my 40ish years of wrenching, I bagged, and tagged one project. It is on a kawasaki ninja repair. Otherwise bolts go in a coffee can till needed. Maybe I was lucky, I could just remember where the bolts came from. Most bolts seem pretty specific to the corresponding parts.
I bagged and tagged everything including the crank bolt, and without thinking and having never used a balancer puller before I impacted it straight into the threads instead of leaving the bolt in. So far, and with the 4.0 actually being my first engine I've ever torn down, that's the only mistake I've made - that I know about. Tear down, cleaning, and painting took me about 6 weekends.
I’ve been burned enough times by oven cleaner that I’m seriously impressed you did that that without gloves. Hell, I’ve been burned through two pairs of nitrile gloves by that stuff. Nothing beats hot tank in a can though. Just don’t breathe it in, or God forbid get it in your eyes.
If you can find it, get this book by David Vizard called: "HOW TO REBUILD YOUR SMALL BLOCK CHEVY"! I baught mine when I was 15yo in 1985 and rebuilding my first SBC, a 307!
I've got a 1995 XJ that has 180k on it no knocks no clatter 45psi at idle I can't kill it.. thanks UNC TONY for doing this 4.0 job will come in handy later!!!❤️👍
For those bolts left in parts that do not have a nut to keep them from falling out, I use rubber bands to hold them in place. Looping the band repeatedly over the threads to make a "nut" works, but there are several other ways. A piece of tape over the head also works if the part is clean enough.
My grandfather used, and left me about 50 king Edward cigar boxes and an old school label maker. They've been quite a blessing. At least the ones that have survived. There's a few that are 2-3 decades old at this point.
I dont do this, but if you do need to, instead of wrapping a rubber band around a bolt 1,000 times, just cut a small piece of rubber hose. You can get it in all the sizes you need, and cut about a 1/2" piece of it to slip over the threads. I'm more of a "I've been doing this every day for 25 years. I had better know which bolt goes where, or be able to figure it out" kind of guy.
Last time I got oven cleaner on my hands it burrrnned. Even if it doesn't burn, nitrile gloves are nice. Makes self-cleanup easier and sometimes those grease stains just will not completely scrub off your hands for some reason. I should probably wear eye protection more, sometimes things fling off- probably not going to lose an eye but it still doesn't feel good. I get the big box of "exam gloves" from the pharmacy section at Sams Club, sometimes I get the ones at Harbor Freight. I'm sure they're available all over that's just my go-to.
Was thinking the same. But think, Tony has been slinging wrenches since he was 16 by now I'm sure by now the skin on his hands is tougher than a billet crank
The 149 HP 250 in line six Ford Falcon down here had Bosch Jetronic or DME, or LEII, or was it Motronic ( Moronic? ) EFi for two years 83-85. Ford changed almost every plug from Bosch stock to Ford stock. Greatest thing I ever seen. Ford trying to help the service technician ..I rejoiced when they suddenly started screwing him over again with Thick Film TFi, an EEK Four, and a Knock Sensor and a whole bunch is totally different parts that looked the same as the 1983-1985 250 six EFis, but everyone O'uckin Fun Different.
@ˡᵉᵗ'ˢ ᵗᵃˡᵏ ᵒⁿ ᵗᵉˡᵉᵍʳᵃᵐ@Official_UTG Really like your old school style reminds me of myself and the way I learned how to use things like common sense still wrenching my grandkids keep grandpa busy with their cars thought I was retired from the trade but I’m still going at 68 years old and I will probably die with a wrench in my hands
They dont have anywhere near the resources or manpower to do anything about it unless someone rats you out. To this day I still pressure wash parts and engine compartments at the end of my driveway by the street.
No I believe that is the best way for disassembly not just car engines, but also laptops, stereos etc... if you can put the screw, bolt or nut back where it came off, you are that much better off in the long run.
Hey Uncle Tony, Great job with the oven cleaner trick ive been using it for years and it really is9 in my opinion0 the best way to get the block clean on the cheap just don't breath it in!!!get it at the dollar store it used to cost 1.00 a can, but mabey not anymore. Keep up the great work there,s no way like the old way!
My 96 XJ two wheel drive, two door Jeep, has 211,000 miles. My wife bought it 12 years ago or more with 100,000 on it for $1000. I replaced the oil pan gasket and absolutely had to look at the inside of the pan. It was beyond immaculate, no sludge nothing. I do 2000 mile oil interval changes and it gets 2000 miles a year now, used to do 10,000 yearly. Great work, I was born in University Hospital NYC, so I am the real deal. Peace
Tony, someone else may have mentioned this, be sure to pull the freeze plug out of the back of the head. The distributor does use that hold down clamp. Those fingers on the distributor are for alignment and so you don’t try and set/change timing. Computer controls that.
oven cleaner is an excellent idea !!!! one suggestion is to apply oven cleaner cover with thin mil plastic , leave in direct sun for a couple of hours & then rinse off the grease & gunk ... 😎✌🖖👍👌🤓i've cleaned a lot of yucky metal things over the years & can't believe i haven't thought to use oven cleaner on an engine block ....
I use dollar store oven cleaner. Much cheaper than other retail stores and it works great. Don’t breathe the fumes though or you’ll have a gag attack. The stuff can eat paint too so watch where you spray it.
Tag and bag works for me. Just did a collision repair on my son's car and helped a lot. I am the world's worst for misplacing things. One box with all the bags for the win. Now of I could find all those 10 mm sockets....
On something like the jeep 4.0 the harness is pretty straightforward, but on alot of the newer stuff were there are more layers to the parts Ive had good luck with the little cheap label makers they sell at Walmart/ Amazon etc. Example I print labels that say TPS, MAF, ETC and just wrap it on the harness at the plug, and generally speaking that makes it very obvious how the harness has to route in the bay cause you can look at harness and say ok TPS is on this side of engine, injector harness is over there, etc and looking at the "memory" of the loom makes it easy to follow how the harness is routed all around the engine and under brackets etc.
Growing up in a body shop my dad taught me to take a piece of cardboard, draw the part that you're taking off then punch holes and put the bolts and screws in the area of your drawing where you took them off for real
I have an electric ratchet from Mac. It's become my favorite tool. I use it like a small breaker bar and once they're loose I hit the button and spin em out. Good for spaces that won't allow a normal impact gun.
We have a hot pressure washer at my job and I'll take it home to do some cleaning jobs like this but what helps even more is an orbital nozzle. Use one of those only if you don't care about the paint on what you're trying to clean.
I do a combo if the bag and tag and placing unique bolts in correct bracket holes and such. If I don't bag and tag things I WILL lose them lol. just how it is lol.
This is perfect for me, I'm wanting an XJ this year as a RV tow vehicle, and I fully expect to have to rebuild it. As I did my last Used Car purchase. Hyundai Accent in car rebuild .... New everything . except crank and block. Hot tanked head and rebuilt that too.Putting it together much more fun everything clean. Plasti gauge the crap out of everything.
I always keep a sharpened old sawzall blade as a scraper for the bigger crud on flat areas. Gets the bulk of it off before attacking it with a brush. Works good with getting gaskets off as well.
Iv tried the table method laying things out, iv tried tag and bag, and no doubt they work great. But my mind is organized chaos I can throw the parts in a big pile and can pick out each part as I need them from vision memory. I think it comes from working in small shops with no space to work for years. I do often put bolts back into a part like tony does if it's a rig I have not worked on before, and I'll often orientate everything as it sits in the rig. Bellhousing bolts on the floor under the trans, left side of engine on the left fender, right side on the right fender, topside parts on the cowl, front end parts on the core support. Use a lot of magnet trays for those. Most people would pull their hair out if they saw it, but it's how iv done it for years now. If it's a super common job iv done several times I don't bother it all gets piled on the tool cart and it's a cakewalk for me. But iv only met 2 other techs that could work like I can
I had to do the same only the pile was typically on the bed of the truck I was workin on or in the floorboards due to workin under a elm tree as a kid.
Eye protection! Especially with a pressure washer, the back splash can send that oven cleaner straight into your Mark 1 eyeball. If the undiluted mist from the spray can does the same you won't like it either.
Definitely a good point. People take being able to see for granted. It really sucks being a car guy and not being able to drive because your eyes are completely shot. I had severe cataracts from age and from welding for the past 32 years, not professionally, but the surgeon asked if I was a welder.........that and the damn laser the cat makes me chase around the house.
Not only the spraying but also if you're getting in there with a brush, you're making thousands of little droplets of oil and oven cleaner and more than a few will find their way in to your eyes
The "feel" approach is so critical man. I also do the bag and tag, but even then you have to document the heck for yourself. Even with meticulous bags, etc I was looking for bolts, connectors. If someone does their first engine and thinks they are going to throw all the bolts into a magnetic dish, good luck!
Great advice on keeping the bolts with their respective parts. I normally spend 95% of my time on one particular brand and model of engine, so with those, I can just throw all bolts into a bucket, and know which ones go where. But if I'm working on something I'm not so familiar with, I do exactly what you have done on the bench there, each bolt back in the hole it belongs in. Just waiting for "those" comments now: "No, don't waste your time getting it that clean now, just do it properly and strip it down, then acid dip the block". You know the ones 😛
I do enough engines that I need the good snapon/bluepoint/matco plier style ring compressor but I'm a rare exception. A good digital torque wrench with degree capabilities is a must!
I've used Easy Off on engines for years. Before starting my latest tear down, I found that it's also available in 32oz. spray bottles for only about 50 cents more than the aerosol cans you used. I'm sure it's not a new discovery for some but, it was for me lol! I'll take the larger amount for minimal cost every time on something like this, always gotta watch that build budget! Also, while I'm not one to preach, you really should be wearing gloves and a face shield when using it. It will burn your skin and eyes if it contacts them.
Don't take as many pictures as you think you need to, take more! There's nothing worse than having a picture of something that misses important details like fasteners etc. Take pictures from lots of different angles. It's easier to delete pictures than it is to go back in time and take that one picture that you might need. If it's simple and easy to work out no problem. But sometimes you think you'll remember how something attaches because it looks obvious but after a week or so things might be different.
@@stevejarred6484 Absolutely. Try pulling apart something electronic with multiple ribbon cables and other connectors that are the same type. Your camera is your friend.
I usually start dry cleaning the layer of caked on grease and dirt with a scraper. Then I go to it with oil eater solvent. I will try the oven cleaner next time.
DD said I could come over here and relax. Said I could be comfortable here with my 48 Ford F1 non purist hooptie. If you build it they will come. 🤣♥️🇺🇸. I hope I don't get caught up binge watching... 😂🍻
If you forget what bolt goes where, you can sometimes lookup parts diagrams online from online parts stores. Mopar Parts Giant has saved my ass many a time.
1) write down best practices, 2) take a before and after picture of each step, 3) document step 2, 4) separate the parts by group, including fasteners, 5) if you're unfamiliar with the engine, tag ALL connectors, and 6)like the man said, clean everything as close as possible to surgical clean. Also take it easy on the beer, I've reworked a number of projects simply because the tech/client or whomever put it together incorrectly.
I'm to imagine Uncle Tony shaking like a Polaroid picture to reassemble the power steering bracket and standing in line to develop that 110mm roll to finally put that a arm back on.
Oven cleaner works great, but it’s basically draino in aerosol form so be careful. Purple power degreaser is the same thing (lye) just less concentrated so it works great too.
My go to cleaning method. Oven cleaner does not have to be the highest dollar name brand product. The Dollar store used to sell it for a dollar a can , although with inflation its probably $3.00 per can. If using on aluminum parts, it will dull the finish just like some cleaners like Simple Green and other citrus based cleaners. I do this before taking parts to the machine shop. They really appreciate it and it makes the caustic wash that much cleaner.
Yes. I work very similar to you.. I find that the parts themselves remind me where all the bolts go.. after you do enough of the same project it’s second nature. I have built Yamaha engines right from the 5 gallon pail full of assorted numerous engines. Also.. microfiche.. or partzilla on line diagram.. are priceless at times…
The oven cleaner is a great tip! I never used it, but I haven't torn down an engine in probably 10 years or more (318s and Subie boxer engines just don't need tearing down that often, and that's what I've been running for years). Damn good tip though for anything with a lot of gunk on it.
I used to find the biggest time-consuming step in a DIY rebuild, is cleaning and painting parts… There’s so much Greasey oily cleaning to be done it’s just unbelievable
Soapy water soaking works magic with bolts or brackets with baked on grime grease and caked on mud wire brush them off and hit with a bit of brake cleaner back to brand new
Oven cleaner is also a great way to clean up your engine bay . Used it to get rid of 50 years worth of grime on my VG Valiant. Was pleasantly surprised with the results. No need to repaint before installing the new donk.
Easy Off Heavy Duty oven cleaner, if you can find it. Will dissolve carbon on valves and pistons! Horsehair brushes, cut the bristles down with scissors.
I like to put bolts in the hole they came from, I use the video function on my phone to talk myself through what I did and what I was thinking when I did it, so if I have to go back I can get past me as a hand
I usually lay stuff out like you do And I agree with the wires have a memory However I work on everything from heavy equipment to lawnmower And what I found best helps me on equipment Is multi colored zip ties
Works great when I'm doing a water pump or something up front on a generator like a radiator. I usually can lay it all out on the ground because it's going back together with new parts. If it's gonna sit ,and someone else might be putting it back together I put bolts back or tape them in what they go in.
"GAK!" The perfect word for that mess!
One of the biggest things I’ve learned doing it myself in the garage is to have a zone the little kids know not to go. The engine stands and the kid scare the hell out of me.
Suggestions: I take a 2 inch paint brush, stiff, cut the bristles back to about an inch and scrub the engines. Better than a flat brush in crevices.
Ya oven cleaner works great. It can burn your throat and lungs though. Word to the wise : practice holding your breath and try to spray down wind. Any effort to keep it off your skin will also be beneficial.
My highschool shop teacher taught us to always put the bolts back where they came out of if ever possible. Also if you're ever unsure on a bolt length, there is usually about a half inch of threads that are in the hole holding the part on when fully seated.
That doesnt work when you are sending out blocks or heads for machine work, the machine shop will either want them removed or worse still lose them. I put the bolts in sandwich bags and mark them with a marking pen or a tag in the bag.
4-5 threads
Manifold/header bolts get replaced every time. Head bolts should be but usually aren't, intake manifold you can literally use 1" bolts from tractor supply on all of them as long as you know the thread pitch, and accessories you can generally figure out by if it tightens up or doesn't reach the threads.
I do that a lot when it suites me but when I'm dealing with long bolts, I try to avoid screwing them back in a casting because if it gets dropped or jarred hard enough, it could break the casting.
All that sludge and grease on that nice concrete pad.
Your landlords gonna love that.
As a kid my job was always to clean up the parts before the teardown or reassembly, chemical of choice was always gasoline lol
I was amazed the first time I saw how easily it would break down all oil grease and grime, just make sure you're not near any open flames
Tony speaks the truth regarding Motronic and wiring - I've seen plugs (usually coolant temp sensors) swapped around more times then I care to remember..... and I'm 25.
When Tony talks about engine cleaners, we can clearly see he's "Lye-ing!" (LOL)
Laying out parts and bolts as theyre removed in order is the way to go for sure. I usually scrape the heavy gunk off with a putty knife before getting it wet. 10 ways to get there...LOL
as a young guy learning first bike on a 88 carburated honda shadow, your content is gold. I consume your content like food so I wanna thank you Tony. ur a real one.
What size of engine?
This Tony guy isn't someone to learn from just sayin....
@@trxtech3010 care to explain why?
@@OACSOME 800 cc
@@4VengeanceV When some explanations things non stop and never has any real show of what he has done in the end.. Also he has cars that are slow as dog shit
Better man than me UT, I worked at an engine reconditoners & EVERY bolt went into a basket (Head bolts, cap bolts, pan bolts etc.) & then into the hot tank. Just sort them out later! Line all the bolts up according to size, type, length etc! :D
Episode 2. Taking stuff apart is so much fun. Putting it all back together is not so much fun without a photographic memory. I’d better get back to my project soon before I forget where everything goes.
In my 40ish years of wrenching, I bagged, and tagged one project. It is on a kawasaki ninja repair. Otherwise bolts go in a coffee can till needed. Maybe I was lucky, I could just remember where the bolts came from. Most bolts seem pretty specific to the corresponding parts.
I bagged and tagged everything including the crank bolt, and without thinking and having never used a balancer puller before I impacted it straight into the threads instead of leaving the bolt in. So far, and with the 4.0 actually being my first engine I've ever torn down, that's the only mistake I've made - that I know about. Tear down, cleaning, and painting took me about 6 weekends.
I’ve been burned enough times by oven cleaner that I’m seriously impressed you did that that without gloves. Hell, I’ve been burned through two pairs of nitrile gloves by that stuff. Nothing beats hot tank in a can though. Just don’t breathe it in, or God forbid get it in your eyes.
Perfect timing. I'm tearing down my first SBC 350/first carb. Got a lot to figure out still. Your videos are invaluable. Thank you!
If you can find it, get this book by David Vizard called: "HOW TO REBUILD YOUR SMALL BLOCK CHEVY"! I baught mine when I was 15yo in 1985 and rebuilding my first SBC, a 307!
One of the best V-8 engines to start with. They are about as basic as they come.
Smallblock Fords are easy also
@@quicksilver462 I see it on Amazon, I'll have to order it. Thank you.
@@donreinke5863 Yea I been looking at all the part availability and had to get on that.
Also check out David Vizard's youtube channell......A+ info over there.
I've got a 1995 XJ that has 180k on it no knocks no clatter 45psi at idle I can't kill it.. thanks UNC TONY for doing this 4.0 job will come in handy later!!!❤️👍
For those bolts left in parts that do not have a nut to keep them from falling out, I use rubber bands to hold them in place. Looping the band repeatedly over the threads to make a "nut" works, but there are several other ways. A piece of tape over the head also works if the part is clean enough.
My grandfather used, and left me about 50 king Edward cigar boxes and an old school label maker. They've been quite a blessing. At least the ones that have survived.
There's a few that are 2-3 decades old at this point.
I dont do this, but if you do need to, instead of wrapping a rubber band around a bolt 1,000 times, just cut a small piece of rubber hose. You can get it in all the sizes you need, and cut about a 1/2" piece of it to slip over the threads. I'm more of a "I've been doing this every day for 25 years. I had better know which bolt goes where, or be able to figure it out" kind of guy.
Go get'em Tiny. Doing God's work.
Last time I got oven cleaner on my hands it burrrnned. Even if it doesn't burn, nitrile gloves are nice. Makes self-cleanup easier and sometimes those grease stains just will not completely scrub off your hands for some reason. I should probably wear eye protection more, sometimes things fling off- probably not going to lose an eye but it still doesn't feel good. I get the big box of "exam gloves" from the pharmacy section at Sams Club, sometimes I get the ones at Harbor Freight. I'm sure they're available all over that's just my go-to.
This is IT , - the series for ME ! The last thing on my bucket-list ...
i KNOW i can handle it , but a good Mentor is invaluable !
are we going to have "watching engine paint dry" chat again? That was awesome last time :)
It may be suggested to wear some gloves while scrubbing the engine with oven cleaner as it's caustic. That's no lye. 😊
Was thinking the same. But think, Tony has been slinging wrenches since he was 16 by now I'm sure by now the skin on his hands is tougher than a billet crank
Yeah and caustic wants to keep going, right to the bone!😂😱
NaOH way !
@@jamescameron6819 he still has skin and it burns organic material. Shit hurts.
@@jamescameron6819 Not the back of anyones hands or arms. That stuff burns there.
All these videos, from everyone, will teach future generations crucial skills, Ones we are rapidly losing these days.
In soooo many ways.
This time of year I have to use a weed sprayer filled with hot water up here in the great white north, slow but still effective
The 149 HP 250 in line six Ford Falcon down here had Bosch Jetronic or DME, or LEII, or was it Motronic ( Moronic? ) EFi for two years 83-85. Ford changed almost every plug from Bosch stock to Ford stock. Greatest thing I ever seen. Ford trying to help the service technician ..I rejoiced when they suddenly started screwing him over again with Thick Film TFi, an EEK Four, and a Knock Sensor and a whole bunch is totally different parts that looked the same as the 1983-1985 250 six EFis, but everyone O'uckin Fun Different.
Safety shield Tony...
Best eng degreasing agent ever , good old oven cleaner used it many a time people thought that I was crazy
@ˡᵉᵗ'ˢ ᵗᵃˡᵏ ᵒⁿ ᵗᵉˡᵉᵍʳᵃᵐ@Official_UTG Really like your old school style reminds me of myself and the way I learned how to use things like common sense still wrenching my grandkids keep grandpa busy with their cars thought I was retired from the trade but I’m still going at 68 years old and I will probably die with a wrench in my hands
That cleaning,it's the most miserable part of the job. It's also one of the most important phases. Glad to see you show the new guys
Awesome I've been a mechanic basically starting at age 13 I'm 40 now and that is exactly how I lay my parts out too
Yup bolts and nuts go with the part they came off of unless you're not going to reassemble it for a couple of years
EasyOff is amazing stuff. It's particularly good at dissolving carbon deposits like those in the intakes of port injection motors.
Uncle Tony….buy my old steam Ginny….no need for any oven cleaner….just hot steam. It’s as old as dirt but it works.
Totally agree with your idea on how to lay the parts out during initial disassembly, my mind works the same way. It's like an exploded diagram.
EPA loves this!
Be mindful of watershed areas people
They dont have anywhere near the resources or manpower to do anything about it unless someone rats you out. To this day I still pressure wash parts and engine compartments at the end of my driveway by the street.
No I believe that is the best way for disassembly not just car engines, but also laptops, stereos etc... if you can put the screw, bolt or nut back where it came off, you are that much better off in the long run.
It is always very satisfying to me to clean up an old engine. It is like theorpy to my mind.
Oven cleaner ftw. I'm a believer in it as well. Good stuff UT
Hey Uncle Tony, Great job with the oven cleaner trick ive been using it for years and it really is9 in my opinion0 the best way to get the block clean on the cheap just don't breath it in!!!get it at the dollar store it used to cost 1.00 a can, but mabey not anymore. Keep up the great work there,s no way like the old way!
Off brand oven cleaners dont work all that well. Easy-Off is the real deal but pricey now--been using it since the 80s.
The dollar store has gone up to 125 around here
My 96 XJ two wheel drive, two door Jeep, has 211,000 miles. My wife bought it 12 years ago or more with 100,000 on it for $1000. I replaced the oil pan gasket and absolutely had to look at the inside of the pan. It was beyond immaculate, no sludge nothing. I do 2000 mile oil interval changes and it gets 2000 miles a year now, used to do 10,000 yearly. Great work, I was born in University Hospital NYC, so I am the real deal. Peace
Tony, someone else may have mentioned this, be sure to pull the freeze plug out of the back of the head. The distributor does use that hold down clamp. Those fingers on the distributor are for alignment and so you don’t try and set/change timing. Computer controls that.
Thanks for this, looking at rebuilding my Lada 1500 engine.
oven cleaner is an excellent idea !!!! one suggestion is to apply oven cleaner cover with thin mil plastic , leave in direct sun for a couple of hours & then rinse off the grease & gunk ... 😎✌🖖👍👌🤓i've cleaned a lot of yucky metal things over the years & can't believe i haven't thought to use oven cleaner on an engine block ....
Once finished it’s always a good Idea to clean the floor too , that way you won’t drag the oil into your car/house/workshop afterwards
I use dollar store oven cleaner. Much cheaper than other retail stores and it works great. Don’t breathe the fumes though or you’ll have a gag attack. The stuff can eat paint too so watch where you spray it.
Tag and bag works for me. Just did a collision repair on my son's car and helped a lot. I am the world's worst for misplacing things. One box with all the bags for the win. Now of I could find all those 10 mm sockets....
On something like the jeep 4.0 the harness is pretty straightforward, but on alot of the newer stuff were there are more layers to the parts Ive had good luck with the little cheap label makers they sell at Walmart/ Amazon etc.
Example I print labels that say TPS, MAF, ETC and just wrap it on the harness at the plug, and generally speaking that makes it very obvious how the harness has to route in the bay cause you can look at harness and say ok TPS is on this side of engine, injector harness is over there, etc and looking at the "memory" of the loom makes it easy to follow how the harness is routed all around the engine and under brackets etc.
Growing up in a body shop my dad taught me to take a piece of cardboard, draw the part that you're taking off then punch holes and put the bolts and screws in the area of your drawing where you took them off for real
I have an electric ratchet from Mac. It's become my favorite tool. I use it like a small breaker bar and once they're loose I hit the button and spin em out. Good for spaces that won't allow a normal impact gun.
We have a hot pressure washer at my job and I'll take it home to do some cleaning jobs like this but what helps even more is an orbital nozzle. Use one of those only if you don't care about the paint on what you're trying to clean.
I do a combo if the bag and tag and placing unique bolts in correct bracket holes and such. If I don't bag and tag things I WILL lose them lol. just how it is lol.
This is perfect for me, I'm wanting an XJ this year as a RV tow vehicle, and I fully expect to have to rebuild it. As I did my last Used Car purchase. Hyundai Accent in car rebuild .... New everything . except crank and block. Hot tanked head and rebuilt that too.Putting it together much more fun everything clean. Plasti gauge the crap out of everything.
I always keep a sharpened old sawzall blade as a scraper for the bigger crud on flat areas. Gets the bulk of it off before attacking it with a brush. Works good with getting gaskets off as well.
Excellent job never thought of oven cleaner, thanks for the information, all the best to yous and your loved ones
Hello utg I use Castrol super clean to degrease and clean things it works great .hello from Canada
Same--but when stuff is baked on......I break out the Easy Off.
Iv tried the table method laying things out, iv tried tag and bag, and no doubt they work great. But my mind is organized chaos I can throw the parts in a big pile and can pick out each part as I need them from vision memory. I think it comes from working in small shops with no space to work for years. I do often put bolts back into a part like tony does if it's a rig I have not worked on before, and I'll often orientate everything as it sits in the rig. Bellhousing bolts on the floor under the trans, left side of engine on the left fender, right side on the right fender, topside parts on the cowl, front end parts on the core support. Use a lot of magnet trays for those. Most people would pull their hair out if they saw it, but it's how iv done it for years now. If it's a super common job iv done several times I don't bother it all gets piled on the tool cart and it's a cakewalk for me. But iv only met 2 other techs that could work like I can
I had to do the same only the pile was typically on the bed of the truck I was workin on or in the floorboards due to workin under a elm tree as a kid.
Eye protection! Especially with a pressure washer, the back splash can send that oven cleaner straight into your Mark 1 eyeball. If the undiluted mist from the spray can does the same you won't like it either.
Squint goggles!
Awesome. Next tell a dirty biker that smoking is bad for his health. You may soon find that you are bad for your health.
Definitely a good point. People take being able to see for granted. It really sucks being a car guy and not being able to drive because your eyes are completely shot. I had severe cataracts from age and from welding for the past 32 years, not professionally, but the surgeon asked if I was a welder.........that and the damn laser the cat makes me chase around the house.
Not only the spraying but also if you're getting in there with a brush, you're making thousands of little droplets of oil and oven cleaner and more than a few will find their way in to your eyes
@@brandonlink6568 Stay in bed all day. That is the safest plan for you.
The "feel" approach is so critical man. I also do the bag and tag, but even then you have to document the heck for yourself. Even with meticulous bags, etc I was looking for bolts, connectors. If someone does their first engine and thinks they are going to throw all the bolts into a magnetic dish, good luck!
Great advice on keeping the bolts with their respective parts. I normally spend 95% of my time on one particular brand and model of engine, so with those, I can just throw all bolts into a bucket, and know which ones go where. But if I'm working on something I'm not so familiar with, I do exactly what you have done on the bench there, each bolt back in the hole it belongs in.
Just waiting for "those" comments now: "No, don't waste your time getting it that clean now, just do it properly and strip it down, then acid dip the block". You know the ones 😛
Not always the case to clean an engine thoroughly when it is still in the vehicle, i just wipe flanges down
I do enough engines that I need the good snapon/bluepoint/matco plier style ring compressor but I'm a rare exception. A good digital torque wrench with degree capabilities is a must!
Turbo nozzle on your pressure washerr Uncle tony 👍👍 The dogs danglies
I put bolts for individual components into plastic bags and mark them for reassembly later on most engines.
I've used Easy Off on engines for years. Before starting my latest tear down, I found that it's also available in 32oz. spray bottles for only about 50 cents more than the aerosol cans you used. I'm sure it's not a new discovery for some but, it was for me lol! I'll take the larger amount for minimal cost every time on something like this, always gotta watch that build budget!
Also, while I'm not one to preach, you really should be wearing gloves and a face shield when using it. It will burn your skin and eyes if it contacts them.
Take your time of course.. research.. even images of other similar projects helped me a lot..
Keep on wrenching folk's
@∅
Another heads up for this motor Tony, they use red loctite from the factory on the oil filter adapter bolt!
Great tip with oven cleaner.. HEY you didn't engage your safety squints or use of hand gaskets!!! Mr muscle also is great on redoing engine bays!
Don't take as many pictures as you think you need to, take more! There's nothing worse than having a picture of something that misses important details like fasteners etc. Take pictures from lots of different angles. It's easier to delete pictures than it is to go back in time and take that one picture that you might need.
If it's simple and easy to work out no problem. But sometimes you think you'll remember how something attaches because it looks obvious but after a week or so things might be different.
Take more pictures than you think you need? You got an "Amen" from me, brother! It even applies to more jobs than rebuilding engines!
@@stevejarred6484 Absolutely. Try pulling apart something electronic with multiple ribbon cables and other connectors that are the same type. Your camera is your friend.
Finally an engine cleaning ASMR!!!
Next in UTG…. Tony power washes middle eastern rugs…stay tuned!!!
I usually start dry cleaning the layer of caked on grease and dirt with a scraper. Then I go to it with oil eater solvent. I will try the oven cleaner next time.
DD said I could come over here and relax. Said I could be comfortable here with my 48 Ford F1 non purist hooptie. If you build it they will come. 🤣♥️🇺🇸. I hope I don't get caught up binge watching... 😂🍻
Nice to see A Master Mechanic at work.
Yea i think superclean couldnt do it as good as the oven cleaner...awesome work sir....cant wait to see it all dialed in
Easy Off also works great for taking the old anodizing off aluminum trim you want to polish up. Just don't leave it on too long.
I've been using that same oven cleaner for years on Briggs engines. It's the same stuff as engine cleaner except it doesn't stink to high heavens
Learned years ago 5 min now to label saves hours headaches later
If you forget what bolt goes where, you can sometimes lookup parts diagrams online from online parts stores. Mopar Parts Giant has saved my ass many a time.
1) write down best practices, 2) take a before and after picture of each step, 3) document step 2, 4) separate the parts by group, including fasteners, 5) if you're unfamiliar with the engine, tag ALL connectors, and 6)like the man said, clean everything as close as possible to surgical clean. Also take it easy on the beer, I've reworked a number of projects simply because the tech/client or whomever put it together incorrectly.
Orgazacional order make a lot of sense.
perculate🤣😂😂love it!!!!!!!!!!
I'm to imagine Uncle Tony shaking like a Polaroid picture to reassemble the power steering bracket and standing in line to develop that 110mm roll to finally put that a arm back on.
Oven cleaner works great, but it’s basically draino in aerosol form so be careful. Purple power degreaser is the same thing (lye) just less concentrated so it works great too.
My go to cleaning method. Oven cleaner does not have to be the highest dollar name brand product. The Dollar store used to sell it for a dollar a can , although with inflation its probably $3.00 per can. If using on aluminum parts, it will dull the finish just like some cleaners like Simple Green and other citrus based cleaners. I do this before taking parts to the machine shop. They really appreciate it and it makes the caustic wash that much cleaner.
Yes. I work very similar to you.. I find that the parts themselves remind me where all the bolts go.. after you do enough of the same project it’s second nature. I have built Yamaha engines right from the 5 gallon pail full of assorted numerous engines. Also.. microfiche.. or partzilla on line diagram.. are priceless at times…
on really greasy parts I use starting fluid and then clean with some spray nine with a nylon brush.
The oven cleaner is a great tip! I never used it, but I haven't torn down an engine in probably 10 years or more (318s and Subie boxer engines just don't need tearing down that often, and that's what I've been running for years). Damn good tip though for anything with a lot of gunk on it.
I used to find the biggest time-consuming step in a DIY rebuild, is cleaning and painting parts…
There’s so much Greasey oily cleaning to be done it’s just unbelievable
Nice project!
Soapy water soaking works magic with bolts or brackets with baked on grime grease and caked on mud wire brush them off and hit with a bit of brake cleaner back to brand new
Oven cleaner is also a great way to clean up your engine bay . Used it to get rid of 50 years worth of grime on my VG Valiant. Was pleasantly surprised with the results. No need to repaint before installing the new donk.
I found that cheap tire shine works also cuts through grease easy. Its mostly silicone oils
we used old telephone cable for marking wires and hoses
💯 I'm here to watch anything with the others who don't want to waste our time or money building anything
Easy Off Heavy Duty oven cleaner, if you can find it. Will dissolve carbon on valves and pistons! Horsehair brushes, cut the bristles down with scissors.
Its out there, but its anything but cheap nowadays...and the generic stuff doesnt worrk anywhere near as well.
You can use drop pans offer by companies of after market parts for you engine stand
Great Video Tony " M Cool" your first pressure washing video never thought I'd see you do that. Looking forward to the next one.
If the bolt doesn't have a nut you can put a twist tie on the threads so it won't fall out of the bolt hole.
I like to put bolts in the hole they came from, I use the video function on my phone to talk myself through what I did and what I was thinking when I did it, so if I have to go back I can get past me as a hand
UT has lungs of iron. That oven cleaner is potent! It's definitely an outside activity. Not sure if anyone actually uses that on an oven.
Thanks, Uncle Tony. (But I almost got seasick watching this one because of all the camera motion.)
I usually lay stuff out like you do
And I agree with the wires have a memory
However I work on everything from heavy equipment to lawnmower
And what I found best helps me on equipment
Is multi colored zip ties
Works great when I'm doing a water pump or something up front on a generator like a radiator.
I usually can lay it all out on the ground because it's going back together with new parts.
If it's gonna sit ,and someone else might be putting it back together I put bolts back or tape them in what they go in.
I got the same compressor I have had since 16 I am now 55 still works great 👍👍
I have a 1950s Kellogg (American Brake Shoe Co) compressor someone gave me for free. Has an oil leak but otherwise works great.