Thank you for posting this! Grand! When I was a child in NYC I would absolutely LOVE when my mother had to go to the neighborhood cobbler and as I went everywhere with her, this was such a treat!! ..I could have stayed there for hours watching him work. It was both fascinating and relaxing and I had such respect for this little man, our shoemaker, who I would, as I grew older, bring my favorite shoes and boots to, on my own, when they needed resoling. He had a heart of gold, enjoyed the work and lit up as he would lose himself in his craft and while he showed you, with gracious pride, the completed repair. I literally grieved years after having moved away and when one day while visiting my mom, finding out he was no longer in business..He was an older man, so surely he had passed away and had no one to leave the business to. I would definitely have become his apprentice, given the opportunity...Shame on me, I should have thought to ask..How fascinating it would have been to be trained by him! Truly a shame that he is gone. There is NOTHING to compare to the old time businesses...These days there is little to no appreciation for those, of days gone, who were so skilled and took pride in their craft...
Thank you for your video. I was able to follow your steps to remove the old heel and replace with the recommend Goodyear rubber heels. One thing I did differently, because I don't have a belt sander, is use a bit guided router to shape the heel. I was surprised at how well this worked! I was able to get the rubber perfected flush and smooth with the heel. The shaping process took me about 10 minutes for both heels. I tried this on a cheap pair of throw away shoes but I'm so impressed with the results that I may try it on a nice pair of shoes like my Allen Edmonds.
45 years ago, we used a belt sander in our shop. Cut open a 4x8 plywood sheet to have belt only exposed...,we thought we would patent it, until about a year later the shoe repair manufacturer came out with the fore runner of what we have today. We change from rough belts to smooth belts to completely finish the heel blocks with the rubber heels.
This was a really excellent video that helped me gain an appreciation for what my cobbler does. I had wondered why it costs $40 to top lift a pair of shoes but now I completely understand why
I wondered that too. Quoted prices would range from $25 to $50 for the same type of repair that I wasn't sure if the higher end ones were trying to overcharge me.
For some, who are good with their hands and take basic repair(s) such as re-heeling, it they may take longer to complete but feel pride and satisfaction of professional finish when they have necessary hand tools.
You've done a really good job here - took my Barkers (a British GYW shoe brand) to Timpsons, a well known UK chain cobbler, who didn't trim a reheel properly and left a massive gap as they didn't sand down the heel stack
Why not go take them back and ask for it to be redone? If they refuse, do tell them that u will protest by walking away. Their head officevwill also be a good contact point.
I used to use a belt sander when I repaired my shoes at home. It soon burnt out so I searched for a better option. Luckily, I found a vintage American branded shoe finisher (Probably from the 1930s) on eBay and purchased it. It was all rusted and the old paint was flaking so I restored it and made it look near brand new. It works like a charm.
Ben Foust have you had success with that method? The problem with that method I’ve found is: 1. Cutting it exactly. There will always be error that will show up on the heel if you cut to a traced line. 2. getting the top lift aligned perfectly. The nature of the glue is that it really doesn’t allow for adjustment of the top lift after installation.
Excess from standard heel piece could have been trimmed using sharp garden secateurs to save on time. Also sander was loose on the bench, could cause accidental damage on shoes or things around it.
Thank you for posting Robert. I don't know if I've seen all of your videos but I've probably seen most of them. I think I will be doing a few reheels and resoles fairly soon. Please keep posting.
You want a strap around the shoe that reaches the floor , stick you working foot though the hoop and much more solid working base. How I was trained in the 70's by an old school cobbler in his late 60's. Long time ago.
Mr. Power go ahead and mount the sander at 45 degree, and use the round roller to sand with. That is how it done. Now buy two more sanders or so buy three or four basic grade sand paper 220, 120, 80, and 40. Now you are able to watch the glue come off, and the sanding on the side with accuracy. Blessings
Nice Video. Question: what can be used as a sandable and stainable filler between the the rubber sole and the wood or leather block lift layers? This is if the wooden heel is damaged from wear from not replacing the rubber sole
Please don’t do it yourself. If you do it wrong you’ll damage your joints, could cause yourself an injury not to mention all the toxins and carcinogens you’re exposing yourself to. We go through years of training and have specialised equipment with dust and fume extraction for a reason. It’s great to see people taking an interest in the process and techniques but DIY shoe repair is never a good thing
English Shoemaker I appreciate your concern, but I don’t think opening a can of glue a couple times a month in an open garage & using a belt sander on leather is that big of a deal. Of course I showed my injury to point out the good as well as the bad. I’ve had plenty of injuries over the years. I built cars for almost 20 years and I’ll tell you hot ridding is 10x more dangerous in all aspects.
Doing one pair of heels without any form of extraction, you’re probably breathing in more dust than I do over several months. The issues I’m more concerned with over DIY repairs are that if it’s done incorrectly it affects your gait, balance, posture etc. I applaud anyone who takes an interest in the craft but I don’t understand repairing your own shoes to save a little money especially when it can have so many knock on effects
@@englishshoemaker7152 it's hard to find people to get an apprenticeship from. I've contacted my local one. But times are slow and fading from the idea of repairing instead of new. Its something I want to do, so learning yourself is really the only way to go
What you said at the end "a little appreciation for your local cobbler", so true. I bitched and moaned about 15 euros to heel a pair of shoes. I worked it out, your video was nigh on forty minutes and in real time. That's twenty euros an hour approximately. You're right, it is a lot of work for 15 euros, even 20. I must have been delusional, thinking rip off a piece of sole, glue on another, let it dry, trim it up. Bob's your uncle, Fanny's your aunt, job done!! Thirty years ago when I bought my first pair of brogues, it was a fiver (£5). Great video matey, set me straight. Tx.
Appreciate the Video. The belt sander is working you too hard. Can you bolt it down? Maybe get a large wood platform, either a small piece of plywood or a kitchen cutting board for example if you need to keep it movable. You could either clamp the platform down or temporally screw it down to your workbench. If the belt sander is meant to be hand held, maybe you can clamp in a vise. If the sander gets tipped over and catches on something, it can shoot it onto your lap and that can ruin your day fast. Also while "Chiseling" the Top Lift off, lay something in your lap if you must chisel toward your leg, maybe a heavy canvas jacket or carpet sample. I liked the polishing finger wrist wrap, might have to use that myself. Thanks for the work on these videos.
YOURE right, I’ve thought of that... it’s funny as things progress (I never had a “goal” to gain subscribers or views) the expectations seem to rise, but yes you’re right about securing the belt sander.
yep. Also like to see you roll that sleeve up one more time around power equipment. Take off the ring. Ticky Tacky but safety is a better safe than sorry area. Also, I call your spatula a putty knife. lol
Wow...This is very informative. I can appreciate the skill & experience required to do this, but I've had some cobblers accidentally damage my shoes, so now I'd rather do basic repairs myself even though it may not look as good. Some cobblers are asking for full prepayment before doing the repairs, which makes me uneasy because they will have my shoes and payment as collateral that I have no assurance the work will be done well, or they might close up and disappear...so I will have lost both my shoes and payment. The prices vary too depending on each cobbler so I never know what is reasonable to pay.
It's tough... but with this info I hope people like you at least feel informed! DIY is defenitely not easy! But if you're good with your hands, it's a great hobby. Just start out on old cheap or thrifted shoes you won't care if you ruin or mess up on! and be careful with the sharp stuff. ALSO, ASK to see the cobbler's other work! They generally always have tons of shoes sitting around that customers haven't picked up yet, or that they'er in the middle of working on.
Just to add some info. I am currently an apprentice for a shoe cobbler. Couple of important things to note. First… in regards to pre-payment. I’ve been in the apprentice position for probably the last three months. I can’t believe the amount of shoes that people have chosen to leave behind at the cobblers business. I think a lot of people come in with good intentions and plans to resole their boots or shoes, only to leave and decide to not return for them. I assume they must be buying new shoes. They don’t call (embarrassed??) to let us know. If the shoe cobbler decides to go ahead and do the job, and you never come back for your shoes… He is now out the time and materials. The gentleman I am learning from has a tendency to prepare shoes and put glue on the heels and then he waits to see if the person is going to come back or communicate with him… IF they do…he will then finish up the shoe. (Often times, while you wait). He has started to have people “pre-pay” as a result. If you are a regular customer, he won’t ask. Second… just within the last month (Feb 2022) due to supply issues, all of the resole materials have gone up in price. A rubber replacement sole (called protection soles) that used to cost $2 now costs around $6. Unfortunately, most people are probably going to notice that getting your shoes resoled or repaired is going to start costing a bit more. I have noticed that a very good cobbler is like a figure skater. He makes the work he does look extremely easy….until you try it yourself. I can’t believe how much there is to it. So many different types of materials, and different types of glues sometimes work and sometimes don’t. As cobblers start retiring or closing up…it’s getting harder to find one. We have people coming from pretty far distances just to get their shoes done. So…..love on your cobbler and be patient with him/her.
@@wildwoodwood9153 I am shocked to hear that customers would never return to collect their shoes, those are not nice customers. On occasion when I do visit a cobbler, I would offer a deposit but not the full amount, so they know I am serious about returning. It sure helps to hear your experience about what takes place behind the scenes--these days good skilled cobblers are rare artisans.
Nice, right now I'm trying to get some cobblers pliers or vampire pliers and a 16 oz claw hammer, plus the tacks, glue, and sandpaper. I bought some black balmorals with puncing on the toe cap, Brooks Brothers, and they fit better than any other shoe I've ever had. They were 17 bucks at goodwill, but I still want give them a good renovation to stretch the life they have left.
I take it we would need to buy the exact thickness of a toplift to get the proper level height for our shoes. If one does not have a belt sander, I wonder if there's a way to precut the toplift close to the right size before attaching it to the shoe, then later sand it down manually. I have a mouse sander though.
It doesn't have to be EXACT, but get it as close as you can. I wouldn't try to sand or thin down a top lift, it's just too difficult even with a belt sander. I generally don't see factory shoes with top lifts thinner than those inexpensive Goodyear top lifts you see in the video. You may have to pull up Bing or Google to search thicknesses, as some shoe stuff is measured in "irons" thicknesss.
Nicolas Morillo LOL, ill share it all, good, bad, and ugly! The other part of that mistake was the wrong tool for the job. I was trying to cut a rubber heel that was very thick.
Cobbler?? Do you mean the cast iron Cobbler’s last? I bought it off Facebook Marketplace from someone local for $20. It was pretty rusty, so I cleaned it and painted it.
Hi! I do a lot of my own work -- but you're far better. I live in a city so I should keep my physical items to a bare minimum - I've been avoiding a cobbler's anvil because of that. Do you have specific recommendations for how a 2x4 can be used? I was thinking of making my own wooden version of that stand (I could always throw it away as needed). What do you think?
Winston Fong - that may be difficult! The top comes off, so you could literally store it in a closet. It may be really difficult getting a 2 x 4 thin enough to fit inside the shoe, but strong enough to not flex when you pound on it. I would just find an iron one using a local marketplace app like Facebook or letgo. As I said, I Purchased mine for 20 bucks
@@CobblerBob serious thanks for the response. In the end, I'm getting an anvil from a very small town. And keep up the great videos: your accessible, down to earth style really resonates.
It's hard to say without looking at them, but if you use brown, and don't like it, you can always darken it to black. You'd probably have to sand them back down after dying them black to make them brown.
In the future, I think you could use the old heel sole to outline the new one and trim it before applying it as to avoid sanding the stacked leather heel. I'm not a professional and I've never done cobblery. Just my observation
Life Connoisseur - I’ve tried that, and I found that you can’t trace it accurately enough, nor can you cut it accurately enough to make it fit exactly. But good idea!
Really appreciate the video. Is the hardness of those Goodyear Neolite rubber top lifts enough to make sanding "easy?" IOW, does it sand similarly to the leather or wood or do you have to be more delicate with the rubber to get smooth outer edge? Also, what grit sandpaper are you using on your belt sander? I know you mentioned 400 grit for your final sanding step. Same on the belt sander to remove larger portions of the rubber?
I’m glad it helped! The Goodyear Neolite top lifts are a rubbery texture. They’re not extremely hard. They’re easy to sand with a belt sander, but difficult to sand by hand. I start with 36 grit on the belt sander then go to 120 grit. That gets it smooth enough to hand finish with 180 then 320.
Hi i just bought a new pair of loafers and the heel of the shoe is rubber is there anyway i can bring the shoes to a cobbler and have the rubber heel replaced for a leather heel?
I found the same "gap" or unbalance problem on some of my shoes and boots too. Especially some English brands like Barker and Tricker's. I don't know whether they do it on purpose or it's just their manufacturing tolerance, but it didn't cause that huge trouble for me personally. If I were you I might grind the rubber heels rather than heel bases by the way.
It’s not a problem. This is the trouble with a little knowledge or assumptions, it’s dangerous. Some shoes require it, some don’t. It entirely depends on how the shoe has been designed and it takes training and experience to know the correct way to replace the heel
Grateful to you for your video. I always wondered about the process. Nice work. May I please suggest that you don’t wear your loose folded dress shirt sleeves near your spinning belt sander and maybe lock that thing down so it doesn’t grab you. Might hurt worse that the box cutter :-). I also bet you could sad the inside curve of your excess heel rubber by holding the shoe sideways to the cylinder of belt sander and using its curve inside the curve of the heel. Does that make sense :-)d god bless your efforts :-)Dave
LO, yes, good points. One point, I think the sleeves APPEAR closer than they are because of paralax, but in my more recent videos I do usually fold them up higher just to be sure. As far as the sanding technique, that part definitely requires skill. One of my much more recent videos: th-cam.com/video/RC2i-knabLs/w-d-xo.html go to 30 mins 30 seconds I actually go over what I've learned about heel edge finishing, but in short, the span that flexis IS nice because it gives a curve, but because it deflects, you tend to not get the edge straight. I've started using the part of the belt over the driving cylinder even though it's a hard line contact rather than a wider contact, because it gives a better finish. The downside is it's much more difficult so it requires more control.
I need to replace the heel caps, professionally done cost me around $ 45 dollars, with Goodyear rubber, I will try to do it under $ 10 dollars. I have everything I need to do this project, if I can do it, I will keep all my shoes.
Hey Bob. Question for you. Do you have an on and off switch on that belt sander or is a trigger? I have checked into similar models of the one you have and they all have trigger switches which would make it very difficult to do this task with just one hand. Thanks!
Robert Powers thanks for the reply back. I found a good option on amazon that serves as a table top/bench sander that can be mounted to a surface and would also work as a traditional sander and has a locking on switch. Appreciate this video. 👍
Bob, just one comment: Keep the cement away from the belt sander, in many instances you may sand a nail which will result in sparkles that may hit the cement can.
Hey, Robert... you think it's better to match the thickness of the rubber heel soles with the half soles if I buy them on amazon? I'm not sure if the question makes sense to you.
Life Connoisseur - I’m not sure what you mean, are you talking about adding protective half soles over the soles, AND replacing the top lifts? Most protective half soles that are glued on over the soles are thin enough where they won’t affect the heel balance (geometry). Generally speaking though, if you put on top lifts that are thicker than what you took off you’ll have problems. You CAN buy protective half soles and heels as a set, but even then the matching top lifts are generally thicker than the half soles.
@@CobblerBob I apologize for the confusing question, I'm not a shoe connoisseur like you. I meant, I bought a new pair of shoes and I would like to put some protective half soles and some rubber heel to protect the shoes original outsoles completely. As you mentioned, if the heel is too much thicker than the front you get arching in the middle than damages the shoes. What would be your suggestion for this if someone wants to add protective rubber on to their shoes?
Aah, now I understand. I’ve got s video on how to apply protective rubber half soles, and another one on how to install heel taps. Heel taps will effectively protect the heels from wear. th-cam.com/video/Srz9-f5t0a4/w-d-xo.html (Sorry for the low quality video, it’s old) th-cam.com/video/SF5j--6am14/w-d-xo.html
Yes, that's part pf the heel balance, and they often have more height on the inside front of the heel versus the outside front of the heel. More height on the inside front gives some "arch support".
JLBRIXYPLAYZ - I know what you mean, without seeing it it’s hard to say, if there is a gap at the back of the heel, it might mean removing the top lift and sanding down the front of the heel base, but that’s very difficult to get it level, and to get it the same on both shoes. Messing it up it theoretically can cause back issues, so you may want to take it to a cobbler. If there is a gap at the front of the heel, you probably need a thicker top lift.
Do you mean over top of the existing factory heel? Now again, I’m not a cobbler, but from my limited experience, anytime you increase the height of the heel, even a little bit, it can upset the balance of the shoe. I think it would also be difficult because majority of the time there’s a tread pattern there, I think you’d wind up sanding it down to get a flat surface, so I think that’s a no-go.
@@CobblerBob .......yes, on top of the factory rubber soles........i don't think i'll go for it since i'll be walking a little bit like in high heels........the cost of replacing the top lifts twice will be close to buying a new pair of shoes = i live in Singapore and cobblers here charge high prices for shoddy materials and sub-par workmanship.......sigh
Internet safety expert here. When removing the top lift, I cringed a bit when you had the putty knife pointed towards your leg/stomach. Be careful, man. Keep sharp things pointed away from you. It's easy to slip. I just used pliers to pull mine off. Much safer and easier.
My grandpa was a painter and got a nice cut in his forearm from a putty knife. It required stitches. I actually pulled the lifts off two pairs of shoes today. Thanks again for the video.
WHY is it done? 🤔 I have no idea, but if you look at most of the high end shoes, that’s what they have. Leather alone is slippery, rubber alone looks cheap.
Robert, please do not wear long sleeve shirts when using power tools ! You would probably love this home belt sander for your hobby: WEN 6502T 4.3-Amp 4 x 36 in. Belt and 6 in. Disc Sander with Cast Iron Base
Agreed! I'm no pro but those loose hanging sleeves and the user of gloves on that belt sander would be a no no for me. If one of those catches...no time for recovery. But I did enjoy the video; very instructive. However, I also think I'll just pay someone to do it for me but at least now I know exactly what goes into fixing to top lift on my shoes. Thank you.
Hi Robert-quick question: I put new top lifts on my shoes, but the balance was completely off. I made sure to order 12 iron top lifts to match the thickness of the original, yet they somehow still feel very off. I noticed this same thing after I took another pair of mine to a professional cobbler; I took a trip back to the shop and asked them about it, and they took them back to correct the issue. However, I have no idea what they had done to fix the balance, and I am wishing to know how I could do so with the ones I tried repairing myself. Thanks!
ThatRandom Dude - what kind of shoe? 12 iron is 1/4” thick. The difference in thickness is sometimes subtle. With Allen Edmonds shoes for example, 1/4” top lifts (0.250” thick) are THICKER than what they use. I measured theirs closer to 5mm (0.196”) or 10 iron (10 iron = .208”). That 0.054” (going off of the 5mm) or roughly 1.25mm difference IS enough to cause the shoe to rock. If it’s an Allen Edmonds Shoe, the heel base made of ground up paper or leather (I don’t know what it’s made of but it is a composite), THEN they have a rubber layer on top of the heel base. I think I show this in the video, but it’s been a long time since I’ve watched it. BOTH the heel base and that rubber layer are nailed to the sole. THEN the rubber top lift is glued to the rubber layer. I have seen cobblers take off the whole heel base, remove the rubber layer, and after re-soling the shoe put only the composite leather base back on without the rubber layer. Then they use the thicker top lifts and it all works out. Otherwise, I think the BEST solution is to get the proper thickness replacement top lifts. That’s also why I got bulk leather and sheet rubber, because I could not find thin enough top lifts, or they were too expensive, or suppliers wouldn’t sell to an individual consumer. If the heel is too tall and the shoe rocks back and forth on the front edge of the heel, the only other option if the above 2 solutions don’t work is to sand down the heel base lower.
Does it matter how thick the replacement heel is? The rubber heel thickness on the shoes I have that need replaced are 3/8th thick, should I replace them with that thickness? It's hard to find online sellers that sell replacements thicker than 1/4 or 5/16ths.
Jonathan Smith - I have limited knowledge in the geometry of shoes, I’m NOT a trained cobbler, but I do have a degree in Mechanical Engineering Tecnology, and I HAVE replaced a few dozen top lifts. Short answer: YES the thickness is critical to the geometry. If the new one is thicker or thinner it changes how your heel and ball strike. Especially if the new one is thicker, it can really make the shoes feel uncomfortable when standing. The whole shoe will have to arch over bc the entire heel behind the leading edge (the “breast” of the heel” will be too far off the ground, causing the shoe to flex in the wrong direction when you put weight on it. The problem I had with AE top lifts is getting new ones that were thin enough. Most of them seem to be 1/4”. That’s why I went through Landwerlen Leather and got 5mm thick (approx .20” thick) leather and rubber sheeting, as that matched the AE factory top lift thickness almost exactly. The Goodyear Top Lifts I used in the video say they are 6mm or .236”, but from my experience they’re a little thinner than that so they’re close enough. I’ve seen professional cobbers remove the top lift AND the thin layer of rubber under it that’s nailed to the heel base on AE shoes. Then they re-nail the heel base on (with shorter nails I assume) and replace BOTH the top lift and that rubber intermediate layer with a 1/4” thick top lift.
when they pull off the top lift with pliers they rotate the pliers bend the rubber off. ive seen a lot of videos of them doing it and they do it the same every single time. just sayin
Uh, huh huh, Burrito Supreme? Sorry, that's a bad Beavus and Butthead (90's TV show) joke. Google translate says that means "Thank you, this really valuable tutorial". ¡De nada!
Could you sometime do a video on leather soles? I try to buy shoes on eBay and I see leather soles on there but I’ve got no idea what’s a “good one” or a “bad one”.
Harrison Wedgeworth I’ve already got the perfect video for you: th-cam.com/video/1Rcd6RSRtI4/w-d-xo.html “Buying Allen Edmonds on eBay? What to look for with sole wear” And this one will help too “Resoling at home FAIL... Cobblers are Pros for a reason” th-cam.com/video/ed_h4vVSfJc/w-d-xo.html
You’re great but, here’s another tip. Instead of the spatula/putty knife you should use a mallet and a wide chisel which is made to be struck. The mallet will save your hands from being punished, you can find these tools used for cheap.
Wow, be careful wearing those baggie long sleeves. I kept worrying those cuffs were going to get wound into your sander! Might wear short sleeves... Just a thought.
That translates into "With subtitles it would be better for me to understand. Thanks." I have looked into that, but I think I would have to type out a transcript of the whole video, which I just haven't been willing to commit to. I'll look more into it thgough.
Great video!! I love this trade too Great idea on the belt sander. Also, extra man points for hammer the chisel towards your crotch! Stay safe lad! Honestly good video though
Attach the damn sander to the surface with a pair of screws, so the machine won't be moving around when you sand the rubber, you seem more worried about keeping the machine in place than doing the right sanding of the rubber, 3 times more difficult a job, it's just common sense.
Oh! just a comment: safety is most important Robert: Never have long sleeve loose while working with rotational tools. I have a priest friend who lost his arm because of that.... Also use mask 95 the best.
Robert Powers I love your videos and I’ve really learned a lot. I respect your work to the fullest. That being said, I’m an electrician by trade. A mechanic of sorts. I work in the construction industry where safety is a huge issue. Sometimes you scare me. I learned early on over 30 years ago to “always cut towards your partner”. That includes hammering. Try to develop a method where you can cut and hammer away from yourself. Maybe nail down that sander too! My advice is...Get a vice! You’re a clever guy and you’ve already been to the ER once that’s we know of Robert. I use those carpet knives all of the time too. Had a few close calls. Step up the safety! From one mechanic to another. Keep them good videos coming! Thanks
Next time try to keep your loose clothings away from moving or spinning objects as it can get caught i cringed the whole time watching you working with those sleeved shirt
I appreciate the concern, and have gotten this comment many many times, but parallax is at work here. My clothes are never within 8 inches of the moving belt sander. It just looks close from the angle.
LOL, yeah, I made that video a couple years ago. The sleeves really aren't as close to the sander as you think bc of parallax, but you'll see in all my recent videos the sleeves get rolled up past my elbows now! Thanks for stopping by!
Thank you for posting this! Grand! When I was a child in NYC I would absolutely LOVE when my mother had to go to the neighborhood cobbler and as I went everywhere with her, this was such a treat!! ..I could have stayed there for hours watching him work. It was both fascinating and relaxing and I had such respect for this little man, our shoemaker, who I would, as I grew older, bring my favorite shoes and boots to, on my own, when they needed resoling. He had a heart of gold, enjoyed the work and lit up as he would lose himself in his craft and while he showed you, with gracious pride, the completed repair. I literally grieved years after having moved away and when one day while visiting my mom, finding out he was no longer in business..He was an older man, so surely he had passed away and had no one to leave the business to. I would definitely have become his apprentice, given the opportunity...Shame on me, I should have thought to ask..How fascinating it would have been to be trained by him! Truly a shame that he is gone. There is NOTHING to compare to the old time businesses...These days there is little to no appreciation for those, of days gone, who were so skilled and took pride in their craft...
Amen, sister.
Thank you for your video. I was able to follow your steps to remove the old heel and replace with the recommend Goodyear rubber heels. One thing I did differently, because I don't have a belt sander, is use a bit guided router to shape the heel. I was surprised at how well this worked! I was able to get the rubber perfected flush and smooth with the heel. The shaping process took me about 10 minutes for both heels. I tried this on a cheap pair of throw away shoes but I'm so impressed with the results that I may try it on a nice pair of shoes like my Allen Edmonds.
45 years ago, we used a belt sander in our shop. Cut open a 4x8 plywood sheet to have belt only exposed...,we thought we would patent it, until about a year later the shoe repair manufacturer came out with the fore runner of what we have today. We change from rough belts to smooth belts to completely finish the heel blocks with the rubber heels.
This was a really excellent video that helped me gain an appreciation for what my cobbler does. I had wondered why it costs $40 to top lift a pair of shoes but now I completely understand why
A cobbler with the proper tools can do this much faster and easier.
I wondered that too. Quoted prices would range from $25 to $50 for the same type of repair that I wasn't sure if the higher end ones were trying to overcharge me.
For some, who are good with their hands and take basic repair(s) such as re-heeling, it they may take longer to complete but feel pride and satisfaction of professional finish when they have necessary hand tools.
You've done a really good job here - took my Barkers (a British GYW shoe brand) to Timpsons, a well known UK chain cobbler, who didn't trim a reheel properly and left a massive gap as they didn't sand down the heel stack
Why not go take them back and ask for it to be redone?
If they refuse, do tell them that u will protest by walking away. Their head officevwill also be a good contact point.
I used to use a belt sander when I repaired my shoes at home. It soon burnt out so I searched for a better option. Luckily, I found a vintage American branded shoe finisher (Probably from the 1930s) on eBay and purchased it. It was all rusted and the old paint was flaking so I restored it and made it look near brand new. It works like a charm.
Thank you Robert! I am impressed by your detailed observations, learning experience and your great presentations! All the best for you!
Stating the obvious but securing your sander would serve you better.
Great videos for the uninitiated and the more experienced.
tks.
He is so honest doing his job ❤and very kind
I've done three DIY jobs since watching your videos. Functionally all are perfect. And if you put the time in many things can be done by hand.
That’s music to my ears! I’m sure aesthetically you’ll get better and better each time too.
You could use the old top lift for a pattern. Will save you a lot of work cutting after installing!
Ben Foust have you had success with that method? The problem with that method I’ve found is:
1. Cutting it exactly. There will always be error that will show up on the heel if you cut to a traced line.
2. getting the top lift aligned perfectly. The nature of the glue is that it really doesn’t allow for adjustment of the top lift after installation.
Excess from standard heel piece could have been trimmed using sharp garden secateurs to save on time.
Also sander was loose on the bench, could cause accidental damage on shoes or things around it.
Thanks for this great video. I’m going to have a go at this - at the moment the cobblers shops have to stay closed here in the UK.
Glad I saw this. I have a couple of pairs of Allen Edmonds that need this. I probably would have thought thicker was better. Thanks.
Thank you for posting Robert. I don't know if I've seen all of your videos but I've probably seen most of them. I think I will be doing a few reheels and resoles fairly soon. Please keep posting.
You want a strap around the shoe that reaches the floor , stick you working foot though the hoop and much more solid working base. How I was trained in the 70's by an old school cobbler in his late 60's. Long time ago.
I believe I’ve seen shoe makers do that?
Very nice, well worth watching. I'm a DIY extraordinaire, so cobblery has always fascinating.
Thank u sir.
Video was bit longer but good enough detail educator..
God bless
Mr. Power go ahead and mount the sander at 45 degree, and use the round roller to sand with. That is how it done.
Now buy two more sanders or so buy three or four basic grade sand paper 220, 120, 80, and 40.
Now you are able to watch the glue come off, and the sanding on the side with accuracy.
Blessings
May I ask what grit belt sand paper you use for the 1) roughing up; and 2) for the final edge finishing?
I need to have the exact thing done to my cowboy boots but I’m just going to the cobbler. I may also have metal heel protectors installed 🤔
Nice Video. Question: what can be used as a sandable and stainable filler between the the rubber sole and the wood or leather block lift layers? This is if the wooden heel is damaged from wear from not replacing the rubber sole
Thanks Robert. This video was very helpful. You give us the hope that we could do this too.
Kent pool 🙏🏼 thank you that was my objective! I’m not teaching how to make bespoke shoes here.
Please don’t do it yourself. If you do it wrong you’ll damage your joints, could cause yourself an injury not to mention all the toxins and carcinogens you’re exposing yourself to. We go through years of training and have specialised equipment with dust and fume extraction for a reason.
It’s great to see people taking an interest in the process and techniques but DIY shoe repair is never a good thing
English Shoemaker I appreciate your concern, but I don’t think opening a can of glue a couple times a month in an open garage & using a belt sander on leather is that big of a deal. Of course I showed my injury to point out the good as well as the bad. I’ve had plenty of injuries over the years. I built cars for almost 20 years and I’ll tell you hot ridding is 10x more dangerous in all aspects.
Doing one pair of heels without any form of extraction, you’re probably breathing in more dust than I do over several months.
The issues I’m more concerned with over DIY repairs are that if it’s done incorrectly it affects your gait, balance, posture etc.
I applaud anyone who takes an interest in the craft but I don’t understand repairing your own shoes to save a little money especially when it can have so many knock on effects
@@englishshoemaker7152 it's hard to find people to get an apprenticeship from. I've contacted my local one. But times are slow and fading from the idea of repairing instead of new. Its something I want to do, so learning yourself is really the only way to go
Excellent! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
What you said at the end "a little appreciation for your local cobbler", so true. I bitched and moaned about 15 euros to heel a pair of shoes. I worked it out, your video was nigh on forty minutes and in real time. That's twenty euros an hour approximately. You're right, it is a lot of work for 15 euros, even 20. I must have been delusional, thinking rip off a piece of sole, glue on another, let it dry, trim it up. Bob's your uncle, Fanny's your aunt, job done!! Thirty years ago when I bought my first pair of brogues, it was a fiver (£5). Great video matey, set me straight. Tx.
Only 15 euros to heel shoes is a deal! Around here it would cost $40-50.
You're in your work shop wearing slacks and a button-up shirt. Total madman.
You couldnt have said it any better, i thought i was the only one who noticed this
Appreciate the Video. The belt sander is working you too hard. Can you bolt it down? Maybe get a large wood platform, either a small piece of plywood or a kitchen cutting board for example if you need to keep it movable. You could either clamp the platform down or temporally screw it down to your workbench. If the belt sander is meant to be hand held, maybe you can clamp in a vise. If the sander gets tipped over and catches on something, it can shoot it onto your lap and that can ruin your day fast. Also while "Chiseling" the Top Lift off, lay something in your lap if you must chisel toward your leg, maybe a heavy canvas jacket or carpet sample. I liked the polishing finger wrist wrap, might have to use that myself. Thanks for the work on these videos.
YOURE right, I’ve thought of that... it’s funny as things progress (I never had a “goal” to gain subscribers or views) the expectations seem to rise, but yes you’re right about securing the belt sander.
yep. Also like to see you roll that sleeve up one more time around power equipment. Take off the ring. Ticky Tacky but safety is a better safe than sorry area. Also, I call your spatula a putty knife. lol
Wow...This is very informative. I can appreciate the skill & experience required to do this, but I've had some cobblers accidentally damage my shoes, so now I'd rather do basic repairs myself even though it may not look as good.
Some cobblers are asking for full prepayment before doing the repairs, which makes me uneasy because they will have my shoes and payment as collateral that I have no assurance the work will be done well, or they might close up and disappear...so I will have lost both my shoes and payment.
The prices vary too depending on each cobbler so I never know what is reasonable to pay.
It's tough... but with this info I hope people like you at least feel informed! DIY is defenitely not easy! But if you're good with your hands, it's a great hobby. Just start out on old cheap or thrifted shoes you won't care if you ruin or mess up on! and be careful with the sharp stuff. ALSO, ASK to see the cobbler's other work! They generally always have tons of shoes sitting around that customers haven't picked up yet, or that they'er in the middle of working on.
@@CobblerBob That is a great idea. Thank you!
Just to add some info. I am currently an apprentice for a shoe cobbler. Couple of important things to note. First… in regards to pre-payment. I’ve been in the apprentice position for probably the last three months. I can’t believe the amount of shoes that people have chosen to leave behind at the cobblers business. I think a lot of people come in with good intentions and plans to resole their boots or shoes, only to leave and decide to not return for them. I assume they must be buying new shoes. They don’t call (embarrassed??) to let us know. If the shoe cobbler decides to go ahead and do the job, and you never come back for your shoes… He is now out the time and materials. The gentleman I am learning from has a tendency to prepare shoes and put glue on the heels and then he waits to see if the person is going to come back or communicate with him… IF they do…he will then finish up the shoe. (Often times, while you wait). He has started to have people “pre-pay” as a result. If you are a regular customer, he won’t ask. Second… just within the last month (Feb 2022) due to supply issues, all of the resole materials have gone up in price. A rubber replacement sole (called protection soles) that used to cost $2 now costs around $6. Unfortunately, most people are probably going to notice that getting your shoes resoled or repaired is going to start costing a bit more. I have noticed that a very good cobbler is like a figure skater. He makes the work he does look extremely easy….until you try it yourself. I can’t believe how much there is to it. So many different types of materials, and different types of glues sometimes work and sometimes don’t. As cobblers start retiring or closing up…it’s getting harder to find one. We have people coming from pretty far distances just to get their shoes done. So…..love on your cobbler and be patient with him/her.
@@wildwoodwood9153 I am shocked to hear that customers would never return to collect their shoes, those are not nice customers. On occasion when I do visit a cobbler, I would offer a deposit but not the full amount, so they know I am serious about returning. It sure helps to hear your experience about what takes place behind the scenes--these days good skilled cobblers are rare artisans.
Nice, right now I'm trying to get some cobblers pliers or vampire pliers and a 16 oz claw hammer, plus the tacks, glue, and sandpaper. I bought some black balmorals with puncing on the toe cap, Brooks Brothers, and they fit better than any other shoe I've ever had. They were 17 bucks at goodwill, but I still want give them a good renovation to stretch the life they have left.
Nicolas Morillo just love the process, and start out learning on shoes you’re not afraid to ruin!
I take it we would need to buy the exact thickness of a toplift to get the proper level height for our shoes.
If one does not have a belt sander, I wonder if there's a way to precut the toplift close to the right size before attaching it to the shoe, then later sand it down manually. I have a mouse sander though.
It doesn't have to be EXACT, but get it as close as you can. I wouldn't try to sand or thin down a top lift, it's just too difficult even with a belt sander. I generally don't see factory shoes with top lifts thinner than those inexpensive Goodyear top lifts you see in the video. You may have to pull up Bing or Google to search thicknesses, as some shoe stuff is measured in "irons" thicknesss.
17:38 Now I have a reason to buy long, kevlar lined gloves
Nicolas Morillo LOL, ill share it all, good, bad, and ugly! The other part of that mistake was the wrong tool for the job. I was trying to cut a rubber heel that was very thick.
I like your hobby and I want to do the same. I didn’t catch where you got the cobbler from. Can you give me where you found. Thanks a lot.
Cobbler?? Do you mean the cast iron Cobbler’s last? I bought it off Facebook Marketplace from someone local for $20. It was pretty rusty, so I cleaned it and painted it.
@@CobblerBob thanks. I bought a small one from Amazon for $36. Unfortunately, it doesn’t fit inside the shoe.
Is it possible for a cobbler to remove the heel entirely and replace with a flat bottom?
Hi! I do a lot of my own work -- but you're far better.
I live in a city so I should keep my physical items to a bare minimum - I've been avoiding a cobbler's anvil because of that. Do you have specific recommendations for how a 2x4 can be used? I was thinking of making my own wooden version of that stand (I could always throw it away as needed). What do you think?
Winston Fong - that may be difficult! The top comes off, so you could literally store it in a closet. It may be really difficult getting a 2 x 4 thin enough to fit inside the shoe, but strong enough to not flex when you pound on it. I would just find an iron one using a local marketplace app like Facebook or letgo. As I said, I Purchased mine for 20 bucks
@@CobblerBob serious thanks for the response. In the end, I'm getting an anvil from a very small town. And keep up the great videos: your accessible, down to earth style really resonates.
Great video! A question about the dye. I have a black top lift on a brown heel. Do inthen use black dye or brown dye 🤔?
It's hard to say without looking at them, but if you use brown, and don't like it, you can always darken it to black. You'd probably have to sand them back down after dying them black to make them brown.
@CobblerBob ok thank you 😊
In the future, I think you could use the old heel sole to outline the new one and trim it before applying it as to avoid sanding the stacked leather heel. I'm not a professional and I've never done cobblery. Just my observation
Life Connoisseur - I’ve tried that, and I found that you can’t trace it accurately enough, nor can you cut it accurately enough to make it fit exactly. But good idea!
Really appreciate the video. Is the hardness of those Goodyear Neolite rubber top lifts enough to make sanding "easy?" IOW, does it sand similarly to the leather or wood or do you have to be more delicate with the rubber to get smooth outer edge? Also, what grit sandpaper are you using on your belt sander? I know you mentioned 400 grit for your final sanding step. Same on the belt sander to remove larger portions of the rubber?
I’m glad it helped! The Goodyear Neolite top lifts are a rubbery texture. They’re not extremely hard. They’re easy to sand with a belt sander, but difficult to sand by hand. I start with 36 grit on the belt sander then go to 120 grit. That gets it smooth enough to hand finish with 180 then 320.
Hi i just bought a new pair of loafers and the heel of the shoe is rubber is there anyway i can bring the shoes to a cobbler and have the rubber heel replaced for a leather heel?
Absolutely! I’m guessing you’re referring to the rubber/leather combo heels?
Thanks for this - it was very informative! I must say, you’re dressed awfully smart for messy work! 😂
I found the same "gap" or unbalance problem on some of my shoes and boots too. Especially some English brands like Barker and Tricker's. I don't know whether they do it on purpose or it's just their manufacturing tolerance, but it didn't cause that huge trouble for me personally. If I were you I might grind the rubber heels rather than heel bases by the way.
It’s not a problem. This is the trouble with a little knowledge or assumptions, it’s dangerous. Some shoes require it, some don’t. It entirely depends on how the shoe has been designed and it takes training and experience to know the correct way to replace the heel
Grateful to you for your video. I always wondered about the process. Nice work. May I please suggest that you don’t wear your loose folded dress shirt sleeves near your spinning belt sander and maybe lock that thing down so it doesn’t grab you. Might hurt worse that the box cutter :-). I also bet you could sad the inside curve of your excess heel rubber by holding the shoe sideways to the cylinder of belt sander and using its curve inside the curve of the heel. Does that make sense :-)d god bless your efforts :-)Dave
LO, yes, good points. One point, I think the sleeves APPEAR closer than they are because of paralax, but in my more recent videos I do usually fold them up higher just to be sure. As far as the sanding technique, that part definitely requires skill. One of my much more recent videos:
th-cam.com/video/RC2i-knabLs/w-d-xo.html
go to 30 mins 30 seconds I actually go over what I've learned about heel edge finishing, but in short, the span that flexis IS nice because it gives a curve, but because it deflects, you tend to not get the edge straight. I've started using the part of the belt over the driving cylinder even though it's a hard line contact rather than a wider contact, because it gives a better finish. The downside is it's much more difficult so it requires more control.
I need to replace the heel caps, professionally done cost me around $ 45 dollars, with Goodyear rubber, I will try to do it under $ 10 dollars. I have everything I need to do this project, if I can do it, I will keep all my shoes.
Hey Bob. Question for you. Do you have an on and off switch on that belt sander or is a trigger? I have checked into similar models of the one you have and they all have trigger switches which would make it very difficult to do this task with just one hand. Thanks!
Nick Donato - mine has a trigger plus a button on the side. When you depress the button, it keeps it on. I’m sure this unit is more than 25 yrs old.
Robert Powers thanks for the reply back. I found a good option on amazon that serves as a table top/bench sander that can be mounted to a surface and would also work as a traditional sander and has a locking on switch. Appreciate this video. 👍
Love the video. Thank you for the history and technique info
Glad you enjoyed it! So sorry I missd your comment.
Bob, just one comment: Keep the cement away from the belt sander, in many instances you may sand a nail which will result in sparkles that may hit the cement can.
Hey, Robert... you think it's better to match the thickness of the rubber heel soles with the half soles if I buy them on amazon? I'm not sure if the question makes sense to you.
Life Connoisseur - I’m not sure what you mean, are you talking about adding protective half soles over the soles, AND replacing the top lifts? Most protective half soles that are glued on over the soles are thin enough where they won’t affect the heel balance (geometry). Generally speaking though, if you put on top lifts that are thicker than what you took off you’ll have problems. You CAN buy protective half soles and heels as a set, but even then the matching top lifts are generally thicker than the half soles.
@@CobblerBob I apologize for the confusing question, I'm not a shoe connoisseur like you. I meant, I bought a new pair of shoes and I would like to put some protective half soles and some rubber heel to protect the shoes original outsoles completely. As you mentioned, if the heel is too much thicker than the front you get arching in the middle than damages the shoes. What would be your suggestion for this if someone wants to add protective rubber on to their shoes?
Aah, now I understand. I’ve got s video on how to apply protective rubber half soles, and another one on how to install heel taps. Heel taps will effectively protect the heels from wear.
th-cam.com/video/Srz9-f5t0a4/w-d-xo.html
(Sorry for the low quality video, it’s old)
th-cam.com/video/SF5j--6am14/w-d-xo.html
I've watched both, thank you. Very informative, long time viewer and subscriber. Would love to watch more shoe review videos.
Here's a little tip: Use brass nails in order to reduce the risk of scratching whatever surface you're walking on.
That’s not why we use brass
English Shoemaker why do you use brass?
Great tutorial
Thank you! Sorry for missing your comment!
I noticed that shoes on my shoes the heel base do not have parallel sides and it is narrower (has less height) at the front.
Yes, that's part pf the heel balance, and they often have more height on the inside front of the heel versus the outside front of the heel. More height on the inside front gives some "arch support".
Sorry for the hindsight, but wouldn't the hooked bladed have prevented the injury?
My loafers have the gap when i put the heel flat idk why and how to fix ittt and its not comfortable
JLBRIXYPLAYZ - I know what you mean, without seeing it it’s hard to say, if there is a gap at the back of the heel, it might mean removing the top lift and sanding down the front of the heel base, but that’s very difficult to get it level, and to get it the same on both shoes. Messing it up it theoretically can cause back issues, so you may want to take it to a cobbler. If there is a gap at the front of the heel, you probably need a thicker top lift.
Wonderful video. Much appreciated!!!
can / should you add top lifts to the rubber soles of a new pair of loafers ?........a very well detailed video by the way !
Do you mean over top of the existing factory heel? Now again, I’m not a cobbler, but from my limited experience, anytime you increase the height of the heel, even a little bit, it can upset the balance of the shoe. I think it would also be difficult because majority of the time there’s a tread pattern there, I think you’d wind up sanding it down to get a flat surface, so I think that’s a no-go.
@@CobblerBob .......yes, on top of the factory rubber soles........i don't think i'll go for it since i'll be walking a little bit like in high heels........the cost of replacing the top lifts twice will be close to buying a new pair of shoes = i live in Singapore and cobblers here charge high prices for shoddy materials and sub-par workmanship.......sigh
Internet safety expert here. When removing the top lift, I cringed a bit when you had the putty knife pointed towards your leg/stomach. Be careful, man. Keep sharp things pointed away from you. It's easy to slip. I just used pliers to pull mine off. Much safer and easier.
Anthony Keeley - good point, but it has no sharp edge.
My grandpa was a painter and got a nice cut in his forearm from a putty knife. It required stitches. I actually pulled the lifts off two pairs of shoes today. Thanks again for the video.
queremos la detección dónde queda la tienda xfabor gracias
No hablo Espaniol! Sorry!!
This is awesome. Hey, at 19:21, you touch upon mixed leather/rubber heels. I guess this is a standard way of making heels? Why is this done, though?
WHY is it done? 🤔 I have no idea, but if you look at most of the high end shoes, that’s what they have. Leather alone is slippery, rubber alone looks cheap.
Robert, please do not wear long sleeve shirts when using power tools !
You would probably love this home belt sander for your hobby: WEN 6502T 4.3-Amp 4 x 36 in. Belt and 6 in. Disc Sander with Cast Iron Base
Agreed! I'm no pro but those loose hanging sleeves and the user of gloves on that belt sander would be a no no for me. If one of those catches...no time for recovery. But I did enjoy the video; very instructive. However, I also think I'll just pay someone to do it for me but at least now I know exactly what goes into fixing to top lift on my shoes. Thank you.
I have the exact same shoe with the exact same lift problem
Robert have you ever had to replace your heel blocks if they are worn? I've looked on several websites but am uncertain about the size lingo they use
Hi Robert-quick question: I put new top lifts on my shoes, but the balance was completely off. I made sure to order 12 iron top lifts to match the thickness of the original, yet they somehow still feel very off. I noticed this same thing after I took another pair of mine to a professional cobbler; I took a trip back to the shop and asked them about it, and they took them back to correct the issue. However, I have no idea what they had done to fix the balance, and I am wishing to know how I could do so with the ones I tried repairing myself. Thanks!
ThatRandom Dude - what kind of shoe? 12 iron is 1/4” thick. The difference in thickness is sometimes subtle. With Allen Edmonds shoes for example, 1/4” top lifts (0.250” thick) are THICKER than what they use. I measured theirs closer to 5mm (0.196”) or 10 iron (10 iron = .208”). That 0.054” (going off of the 5mm) or roughly 1.25mm difference IS enough to cause the shoe to rock.
If it’s an Allen Edmonds Shoe, the heel base made of ground up paper or leather (I don’t know what it’s made of but it is a composite), THEN they have a rubber layer on top of the heel base. I think I show this in the video, but it’s been a long time since I’ve watched it. BOTH the heel base and that rubber layer are nailed to the sole. THEN the rubber top lift is glued to the rubber layer. I have seen cobblers take off the whole heel base, remove the rubber layer, and after re-soling the shoe put only the composite leather base back on without the rubber layer. Then they use the thicker top lifts and it all works out. Otherwise, I think the BEST solution is to get the proper thickness replacement top lifts. That’s also why I got bulk leather and sheet rubber, because I could not find thin enough top lifts, or they were too expensive, or suppliers wouldn’t sell to an individual consumer.
If the heel is too tall and the shoe rocks back and forth on the front edge of the heel, the only other option if the above 2 solutions don’t work is to sand down the heel base lower.
I wouldn’t bother trying to sand down new top lifts. I tried that and it’s too hard to get them flat.
Great information enjoyed the video thanks
Does it matter how thick the replacement heel is? The rubber heel thickness on the shoes I have that need replaced are 3/8th thick, should I replace them with that thickness? It's hard to find online sellers that sell replacements thicker than 1/4 or 5/16ths.
Jonathan Smith - I have limited knowledge in the geometry of shoes, I’m NOT a trained cobbler, but I do have a degree in Mechanical Engineering Tecnology, and I HAVE replaced a few dozen top lifts. Short answer: YES the thickness is critical to the geometry. If the new one is thicker or thinner it changes how your heel and ball strike. Especially if the new one is thicker, it can really make the shoes feel uncomfortable when standing. The whole shoe will have to arch over bc the entire heel behind the leading edge (the “breast” of the heel” will be too far off the ground, causing the shoe to flex in the wrong direction when you put weight on it.
The problem I had with AE top lifts is getting new ones that were thin enough. Most of them seem to be 1/4”. That’s why I went through Landwerlen Leather and got 5mm thick (approx .20” thick) leather and rubber sheeting, as that matched the AE factory top lift thickness almost exactly. The Goodyear Top Lifts I used in the video say they are 6mm or .236”, but from my experience they’re a little thinner than that so they’re close enough.
I’ve seen professional cobbers remove the top lift AND the thin layer of rubber under it that’s nailed to the heel base on AE shoes. Then they re-nail the heel base on (with shorter nails I assume) and replace BOTH the top lift and that rubber intermediate layer with a 1/4” thick top lift.
I really enjoyed this and you are a good teacher! I will however play a drinking game for every time you say Allen Edmonds!! Lol
when they pull off the top lift with pliers they rotate the pliers bend the rubber off. ive seen a lot of videos of them doing it and they do it the same every single time. just sayin
Thanks for the comment. I did pick up one of those funky cobbling pliers those guys use.
Gracias, este tutorial de verdad muy valioso
Uh, huh huh, Burrito Supreme? Sorry, that's a bad Beavus and Butthead (90's TV show) joke. Google translate says that means "Thank you, this really valuable tutorial". ¡De nada!
Can you explain why the inside corners of AE's and some other shoe companies have that angled edge. Does it have some purpose?
Yeah, to keep your pants from getting caught on your heel.
Thank you for letting me know. I 've always wondered.@@zackerycarroll2946
Could you sometime do a video on leather soles? I try to buy shoes on eBay and I see leather soles on there but I’ve got no idea what’s a “good one” or a “bad one”.
Harrison Wedgeworth I’ve already got the perfect video for you:
th-cam.com/video/1Rcd6RSRtI4/w-d-xo.html
“Buying Allen Edmonds on eBay? What to look for with sole wear”
And this one will help too “Resoling at home FAIL... Cobblers are Pros for a reason”
th-cam.com/video/ed_h4vVSfJc/w-d-xo.html
You’re great but, here’s another tip. Instead of the spatula/putty knife you should use a mallet and a wide chisel which is made to be struck. The mallet will save your hands from being punished, you can find these tools used for cheap.
ohh and put that dryed up polish on the stove low flame few seconds ..then there is a small hole in the can look for it seal it up with nail polish
thank you for the video.
excellent
THANK you!
You dress really well to get dirty I am impressed 😮
Do you want to buy some shoe repair equipment , tools and stock ?
Please feel free to email me at robertpowers1972 at gmail dot com!
Wow, be careful wearing those baggie long sleeves. I kept worrying those cuffs were going to get wound into your sander! Might wear short sleeves... Just a thought.
Com legendas seria melhor para eu entender. Obrigada.
That translates into "With subtitles it would be better for me to understand. Thanks." I have looked into that, but I think I would have to type out a transcript of the whole video, which I just haven't been willing to commit to. I'll look more into it thgough.
Bro am watching your vedion in 2024_10_18
Great video!! I love this trade too
Great idea on the belt sander.
Also, extra man points for hammer the chisel towards your crotch! Stay safe lad!
Honestly good video though
I can't help but to put steel heel guard on all my boots
I wonder how long he's been a cobbler
I'm just an ammateur, but I think I started really seriously cobbling late 2017 or early 2018.
Lots of details and wry humour. Here’s a tip, it’s not a spatula it’s called a “putty knife”.
I bet a person who puts that much work into his heals and soles is careful not to drag his feet when he walks.
Attach the damn sander to the surface with a pair of screws, so the machine won't be moving around when you sand the rubber, you seem more worried about keeping the machine in place than doing the right sanding of the rubber, 3 times more difficult a job, it's just common sense.
Oh! just a comment: safety is most important Robert: Never have long sleeve loose while working with rotational tools. I have a priest friend who lost his arm because of that.... Also use mask 95 the best.
Wow, I appreciate that feedback. Generally o roll my sleeves up using the sander so there never within a half a foot.
Hammer sharp objects towards your thigh is a recipe for disaster. Otherwise a good job!
Jim N thanks for the tip, but I could rest that putty knife directly on my leg and smack it and it wouldn’t hurt or cut my pants. It’s dull.
Robert Powers I love your videos and I’ve really learned a lot. I respect your work to the fullest.
That being said, I’m an electrician by trade. A mechanic of sorts. I work in the construction industry where safety is a huge issue. Sometimes you scare me. I learned early on over 30 years ago to “always cut towards your partner”. That includes hammering.
Try to develop a method where you can cut and hammer away from yourself. Maybe nail down that sander too!
My advice is...Get a vice! You’re a clever guy and you’ve already been to the ER once that’s we know of Robert.
I use those carpet knives all of the time too. Had a few close calls.
Step up the safety! From one mechanic to another.
Keep them good videos coming!
Thanks
Ouch D:
Lucky you did not hurt yourself!
Next time try to keep your loose clothings away from moving or spinning objects as it can get caught i cringed the whole time watching you working with those sleeved shirt
I appreciate the concern, and have gotten this comment many many times, but parallax is at work here. My clothes are never within 8 inches of the moving belt sander. It just looks close from the angle.
putty knife
Get rid of those dirty earplugs. You’re gonna get an infection.
Will do sir
Be careful with loose clothes and rotating equipment
It often looks like I'm closer than I am with camera angle and paralax, but yes, thanks.
the gloves are cute but. slow down man and roll your shirt sleeves up when you sand on that sander that sander cant be trusted
LOL, yeah, I made that video a couple years ago. The sleeves really aren't as close to the sander as you think bc of parallax, but you'll see in all my recent videos the sleeves get rolled up past my elbows now! Thanks for stopping by!
Um k