I watched a couple of times and want to give this a try. I have been MRS climbing or with my platforms and aiders in the dark, but I love the no slack set up. When climbing with my platform it is near impossible to keep slack out of the system. There have been plenty of times too where my throw line got stuck in tight crotches or the bark of some trees. Thanks for posting this.
John, as you know I really like hitch climbing SRT, with Maverick. So I tested installing the rope with a small carabiner inserted in the running loops and nose of the Maverick hitch , as you demonstrated with a preset cord or throw ball cord. Inserted the hook of my pole in that same carabiner in my new 11mm Predator rope, which is pretty slick rope, WORKED GREAT, and the tree had pretty rough bark. Had nice control of the rope as I pushed it up, and it cinched nicely at the top. I think I will prefer 13:42 using the carabiner rather that placing the pole hook in the locking loop and rope. Did have my retrieval cord on the rope , having the locking loop in place and locked with the end loop through it, this all worked silently as I installed the hitch.
The carabiner does seem to prevent complete release of the hitch on retrieval , so I just pulled the rope down with the retrieval cord, have to work that out, maybe make my locking loop bigger, after climbing the hitch had tightened up, not jammed, but I didn’t want to attempt to remove the carabiner while hanging on the hitch so I just rappelled and pulled the hitch down, the cinch did release and the rope slid on down the tree no problem, then was untied at ground level. So that’s the only hitch😃pun intended!
Be sure to watch the evolution of it on the Hitch Climbing playlist. I have improved it, particularly with the use of a pole and the Maverick Hitch. I have some other things coming which are still being tested.
I've been watching quite a bit! I'm a bowhunter but I only hunt small game from the ground. I'm interested in the hitches etc. more for bushcrafting purposes right now. Also looking for a "One way hitch" for possible use on a dog run. Haven't thought this one through completely yet. Mike. @@jrbtc
John, This is amazing, thank you. I was just about to send you a question asking how to transition from a Tree Hunter's Hitch to the JRB Hitch. I was envisioning having to use a lineman's rope to temporarily come off of the main rope, but this is completely not necessary. In fact, I don't think I would need a lineman's rope at all. I can just put a second Tree Hunter's Hitch in if I need to go around a limb. Again, Thank you.
Great. Glad to be providing content you can use. This was the first video on a playlist and there is more coming as i further develop this method. And in general, I have not much use for a lineman's belt. It's just a positioning device and i don't even carry one when hunting.
Very nice system, although somewhat noisy, but it appears to be workable with some other components. Thank you in advance on some close instruction on your JRB hitch.
It's definitely noisier than my standard method, however the camera also has an audio expander which means that during silence in speech, it applies the background sounds. I can climb very quietly but as stated in the video, i was not trying to. Also, regarding the JRB hitch, that information is already posted in case you hadn't seen it. th-cam.com/video/w8IRYd_J-HA/w-d-xo.html
Could you just use 2 hitches and slide them up? Load one side from the top hitch and tie the lower hitch using the non load side of the rope from the first hitch with enough slack to move the hitches. Then alternate the loads from one side of the rope on the top hitch to the other side of the rope on the bottom hitch. You would slide the top hitch up the tree when loading the bottom hitch and slide the bottom hitch up when loading the top hitch.
I read that twice and still can't be sure I pictured it properly. All i can say is that yes, there are other possible ways to climb using a variation. I simply didn't want us to need to ever need to detach or change our connection points. Also, this was just an introduction to the concept. In future videos, we will explore improvements, particularly the incorporation of the JRB Ascender Hitch as a replacement for the two friction hitches. Remember, this is a climbing method which we are executing using a climbing system. I want that system to be able to be used, unchanged, for multiple methods, specifically MRS, SRT, JRB or JRB hitch climbing. 4 methods possible on one system. Will be fun to show ya that in the future.
Thx. Honestly, i would not claim that even I am proficient yet. I have made some really cool improvements in the system since this video... and i will publish new vids when i can. Changes: 1) One of the main motivations for all the work i did on the JRB Ascender Hitch is that when I put in in my system, THIS technique gets much easier. The Michoacán would jam too much from the sideward load and be tough to tend and move. And so the two Meech's on each side get replaced by ONE JRB Ascender Hitch running in Bridge mode. 2) The little yellow tending loop is now not necessary. 3) Although the hard bottom footloop is comfortable... i don't typically carry it... and so I do have a way to get my standard footloop to work for this climb too. I will detail everything asap.
Many times I climb MRS after throwing a ball over a good union that is lower. Then I take my lanyard & put it around the 🌳. My lanyard is 14mm Samson Predator. The same thing I use for climbingline. I throw my lanyard up which is 10 feet long as high as I can get it. Then with the poor man ascender using a 10mm Michoacon hitch with a double loop cordage on my right side I shorten my lanyard a little. I also have another 10mm English prusik hitch tied on the other side of the lanyard. This side I put a carabiner on the loop & pull it snug to the tree & attach that carabiner to the other side of the lanyard tight to the 🌳 like I have it on my left side. I call this a choker & it girth hitches my lanyard to the tree. I have a 8mm Oplux tether which was made by WEI Inc. It has that nice & small carabiner on it with a poor man's ascender 6mm prusik on it. This I tether to the 🌳 above my lanyard. When I pull tension up on this I can put a foot on the union I originally had my climbing rope over. I repeat the process with the throwball over another union higher in the 🌳. I'm tied in with my lanyard & tether & the Oplux is tied into my main bridge. I can then attach my open system which I have 2 of that I use. Only need to put a paracord loop with a pile hitch above my factory sewn eye end of my climbing rope. Pull it over the union & down to my left side & put it back on the carabiner. Most of the time I'm using a Beeline split-tail with a tending prusik. Other times I keep a DMM HitchClimber Eccentric on another longer length of Samson Predator. Depending on the situation I have 2 climbing lines on opposite sides of a 🌳 when the 🌳 is too busy to use redirects. Take care.
Thanks for that. I confess: I had to read that 3 times, and still not certain I have it all pictured correctly, but it sounds like you have some great experience and a versatile system. Feel free to post a video in my JRB Tree Climbing Facebook group.
@@jrbtc I'm not on Facebook much. But I will try next week on a warmer day to put something together. What I refer to as a choker has another term to it but I can't recall the word. I have 2 linemans style lanyards that hook to the smaller loops on my saddle. On the left side there is a factory sewn eye from Iron Street on the Predator rope with a prusik attached to a Petzyl oval Carabiner that clips on the right side. That lanyard is 6 feet long. My 10 foot lanyard is similar but I use termination knots on a carabiner on both ends. It has a Michoacon 10mm double loop prusik. I custom made this one. The secondary prusik that allows u to girth hitch your lanyard can be put on the right or left side. Whichever way that keeps u from leaning onto the wrong side of the 🌳. I also put a stopper knot with a clip @ the end since a 10 foot lanyard isn't needed most of the time. Just nice to have for the right situation 👌.
I carry one rope SYSTEM for multiple rope climbing methods. I carry 80 to 100 ft. You need more than 40. Can discuss details in FB group : JRB Tree Climbing
The first SHH hitch is set near one end of the rope, just enough to touch the ground plus an extra foot. The two pairs of friction hitches are on either side of this and all the hitches we put on the trunk. Feel free to join JRB Tree Climbing group on Facebook for a better discussion.
Is there any other 8mm or 9mm rope that has the same strength and knot characteristics as oplux that’s 1.) easier to find in stock and 2.) less expensive?
@@jrbtc thanks! I read the whole site lol so much good info. Ordered me some resctech. I wanted to mention I redid my redundant bridge using the sterling powercord 5.9mm, this little rope packs a punch, super strong, super light and very easy to work with. I can’t applaud you enough for all the info and the world you opened up for me and what’s starting to become a good group of my friends. This is all revolutionary in a sense🙌🙌
@@The_Fit_ness_monster thx. The site is just a week old. I have a TON to add. Working on the dictionary first. By the way, i can't wait to show ya my new bridge design. Asap.
I would be terrified to go down knowing if I made once false move that I could undo my hitch. Does your body weight being loaded prevent that or something?
The JRB Hitch is detailed on this playlist. Some of the many tests I performed are also documented. You may want to watch the one on Stability, Fault Tolerance and Release under Load. Although the exact characteristics can vary with the rope and host type, the JRB Hitch jams under load. It would require a significant amount of exertion to release yourself when you are on it. But when load is removed, it's effortless. Still, I encourage all climbers to tie and test and use carefully. You'll also want to see the one where I demonstrate how to tie it for Tether and Rappel applications. th-cam.com/play/PLETL-PceEXkaOdAOH-UdDN1-iiODhsInE.html
@@jrbtc John, you are awesome! I appreciate your knowledge and presentation skills. Very well done. Thank you for answering my question as well. It is a most interesting world of knots and friction hitches, and because of your channel I went saddle hunting for the first time. Very exciting!
@@jimjohn6520 that's fantastic. I grew up climbing trees, ladders, scaffolding, etc. Now, i don't feel comfortable doing ANYTHING without being tied in. Its not fear of heights some have... it's fear of falling... and it's a healthy fear. Learn to test and trust your ropes and it's a different world.
@@jrbtc I took the time to watch all of the content you suggested, and that eased my fears. I will test this hitch myself and make sure I know exactly how to tie it if I implement it into my system. Very cool!
It is similar to two tether. The advantages include: 1. A single JRB climbing system allows us to climb 4 ways: JRB, SRT, MRS or Hitch climbing. 2. Zero slack on the bridge the entire time. In 2TC, your tether is slack when you just stepped up. It doesn't pass the whistle test, which is when your climbing instructor watches you climb and blows a whistle whenever they think it might get you in trouble, and you let go of everything. 3. Tree diameter. I can climb 4inches or 4 feet. 4. Bypasses. A good hunting spot will typically have thick cover and a complex canopy. I need to bypass several branches on the way up a tree. 2TC becomes 3TC when ya have to bypass. 5. Both methods are pretty slow and not as safe as rope climbing. We should only use em when we absolutely need to. For example, you won't find any arborists who use these methods, but they all rope climbing. And so your rope system should be the primary method, and this method is like a built in backup. I believe this is slower than 2TC but working to speed it up. 6. Its handy in an emergency like when ya get to your tree in the morning and realize that a storm took it down. No problem, no throwball, no walk back to the truck to get sticks or 2TC, just climb. I have a bunch of improvements coming as well. If its not for you, you're not alone. I only use it occasionally myself with a preference for paracord presets from throwball work months and years in advance. Cheers
Wow you opened up a whole new world to me. I'm loving it !
I watched a couple of times and want to give this a try. I have been MRS climbing or with my platforms and aiders in the dark, but I love the no slack set up. When climbing with my platform it is near impossible to keep slack out of the system.
There have been plenty of times too where my throw line got stuck in tight crotches or the bark of some trees. Thanks for posting this.
This was an introduction. You'll need more info to attempt. Find me at FB group of same name as the channel for discussion and ideation.
John, as you know I really like hitch climbing SRT, with Maverick. So I tested installing the rope with a small carabiner inserted in the running loops and nose of the Maverick hitch , as you demonstrated with a preset cord or throw ball cord. Inserted the hook of my pole in that same carabiner in my new 11mm Predator rope, which is pretty slick rope, WORKED GREAT, and the tree had pretty rough bark. Had nice control of the rope as I pushed it up, and it cinched nicely at the top. I think I will prefer 13:42 using the carabiner rather that placing the pole hook in the locking loop and rope. Did have my retrieval cord on the rope , having the locking loop in place and locked with the end loop through it, this all worked silently as I installed the hitch.
The carabiner does seem to prevent complete release of the hitch on retrieval , so I just pulled the rope down with the retrieval cord, have to work that out, maybe make my locking loop bigger, after climbing the hitch had tightened up, not jammed, but I didn’t want to attempt to remove the carabiner while hanging on the hitch so I just rappelled and pulled the hitch down, the cinch did release and the rope slid on down the tree no problem, then was untied at ground level. So that’s the only hitch😃pun intended!
Really interesting to see this, thanks for showing it to us. Mike.
Be sure to watch the evolution of it on the Hitch Climbing playlist. I have improved it, particularly with the use of a pole and the Maverick Hitch. I have some other things coming which are still being tested.
I've been watching quite a bit! I'm a bowhunter but I only hunt small game from the ground. I'm interested in the hitches etc. more for bushcrafting purposes right now. Also looking for a "One way hitch" for possible use on a dog run. Haven't thought this one through completely yet. Mike. @@jrbtc
Very nicely done! Thank you for sharing
John, This is amazing, thank you. I was just about to send you a question asking how to transition from a Tree Hunter's Hitch to the JRB Hitch. I was envisioning having to use a lineman's rope to temporarily come off of the main rope, but this is completely not necessary. In fact, I don't think I would need a lineman's rope at all. I can just put a second Tree Hunter's Hitch in if I need to go around a limb. Again, Thank you.
Great. Glad to be providing content you can use. This was the first video on a playlist and there is more coming as i further develop this method. And in general, I have not much use for a lineman's belt. It's just a positioning device and i don't even carry one when hunting.
Can u show how to set throw ball and anchoring for one stick or palm tree?
Very nice system, although somewhat noisy, but it appears to be workable with some other components. Thank you in advance on some close instruction on your JRB hitch.
It's definitely noisier than my standard method, however the camera also has an audio expander which means that during silence in speech, it applies the background sounds. I can climb very quietly but as stated in the video, i was not trying to. Also, regarding the JRB hitch, that information is already posted in case you hadn't seen it.
th-cam.com/video/w8IRYd_J-HA/w-d-xo.html
Could you just use 2 hitches and slide them up?
Load one side from the top hitch and tie the lower hitch using the non load side of the rope from the first hitch with enough slack to move the hitches. Then alternate the loads from one side of the rope on the top hitch to the other side of the rope on the bottom hitch. You would slide the top hitch up the tree when loading the bottom hitch and slide the bottom hitch up when loading the top hitch.
I read that twice and still can't be sure I pictured it properly. All i can say is that yes, there are other possible ways to climb using a variation. I simply didn't want us to need to ever need to detach or change our connection points. Also, this was just an introduction to the concept. In future videos, we will explore improvements, particularly the incorporation of the JRB Ascender Hitch as a replacement for the two friction hitches. Remember, this is a climbing method which we are executing using a climbing system. I want that system to be able to be used, unchanged, for multiple methods, specifically MRS, SRT, JRB or JRB hitch climbing. 4 methods possible on one system. Will be fun to show ya that in the future.
yep
Ingenious and cool...however...how many credit hours to accomplish proficiency?
Thx. Honestly, i would not claim that even I am proficient yet. I have made some really cool improvements in the system since this video... and i will publish new vids when i can. Changes:
1) One of the main motivations for all the work i did on the JRB Ascender Hitch is that when I put in in my system, THIS technique gets much easier. The Michoacán would jam too much from the sideward load and be tough to tend and move. And so the two Meech's on each side get replaced by ONE JRB Ascender Hitch running in Bridge mode.
2) The little yellow tending loop is now not necessary.
3) Although the hard bottom footloop is comfortable... i don't typically carry it... and so I do have a way to get my standard footloop to work for this climb too. I will detail everything asap.
And "GRockBlues"... well that sounds like it came from a fellow musician, and so if we get the SADDLE BAND together, i am the sax man!
Many times I climb MRS after throwing a ball over a good union that is lower. Then I take my lanyard & put it around the 🌳. My lanyard is 14mm Samson Predator. The same thing I use for climbingline. I throw my lanyard up which is 10 feet long as high as I can get it. Then with the poor man ascender using a 10mm Michoacon hitch with a double loop cordage on my right side I shorten my lanyard a little. I also have another 10mm English prusik hitch tied on the other side of the lanyard. This side I put a carabiner on the loop & pull it snug to the tree & attach that carabiner to the other side of the lanyard tight to the 🌳 like I have it on my left side. I call this a choker & it girth hitches my lanyard to the tree. I have a 8mm Oplux tether which was made by WEI Inc. It has that nice & small carabiner on it with a poor man's ascender 6mm prusik on it. This I tether to the 🌳 above my lanyard. When I pull tension up on this I can put a foot on the union I originally had my climbing rope over. I repeat the process with the throwball over another union higher in the 🌳.
I'm tied in with my lanyard & tether & the Oplux is tied into my main bridge. I can then attach my open system which I have 2 of that I use. Only need to put a paracord loop with a pile hitch above my factory sewn eye end of my climbing rope. Pull it over the union & down to my left side & put it back on the carabiner. Most of the time I'm using a Beeline split-tail with a tending prusik. Other times I keep a DMM HitchClimber Eccentric on another longer length of Samson Predator. Depending on the situation I have 2 climbing lines on opposite sides of a 🌳 when the 🌳 is too busy to use redirects. Take care.
Thanks for that. I confess: I had to read that 3 times, and still not certain I have it all pictured correctly, but it sounds like you have some great experience and a versatile system. Feel free to post a video in my JRB Tree Climbing Facebook group.
@@jrbtc I'm not on Facebook much. But I will try next week on a warmer day to put something together. What I refer to as a choker has another term to it but I can't recall the word. I have 2 linemans style lanyards that hook to the smaller loops on my saddle. On the left side there is a factory sewn eye from Iron Street on the Predator rope with a prusik attached to a Petzyl oval Carabiner that clips on the right side. That lanyard is 6 feet long. My 10 foot lanyard is similar but I use termination knots on a carabiner on both ends. It has a Michoacon 10mm double loop prusik. I custom made this one. The secondary prusik that allows u to girth hitch your lanyard can be put on the right or left side. Whichever way that keeps u from leaning onto the wrong side of the 🌳. I also put a stopper knot with a clip @ the end since a 10 foot lanyard isn't needed most of the time. Just nice to have for the right situation 👌.
How much oplux do you usually use for this? Do you think 40 ft would be enough?
I carry one rope SYSTEM for multiple rope climbing methods. I carry 80 to 100 ft. You need more than 40. Can discuss details in FB group : JRB Tree Climbing
th-cam.com/video/SiduMlYegvs/w-d-xo.html
How far do you need to offset the first hitch from the center of the rope?
The first SHH hitch is set near one end of the rope, just enough to touch the ground plus an extra foot. The two pairs of friction hitches are on either side of this and all the hitches we put on the trunk. Feel free to join JRB Tree Climbing group on Facebook for a better discussion.
Is there any other 8mm or 9mm rope that has the same strength and knot characteristics as oplux that’s 1.) easier to find in stock and 2.) less expensive?
I keep a list of ropes I have personally used here:
jrbtreeclimbing.com/
@@jrbtc thanks! I read the whole site lol so much good info. Ordered me some resctech. I wanted to mention I redid my redundant bridge using the sterling powercord 5.9mm, this little rope packs a punch, super strong, super light and very easy to work with. I can’t applaud you enough for all the info and the world you opened up for me and what’s starting to become a good group of my friends. This is all revolutionary in a sense🙌🙌
@@The_Fit_ness_monster thx. The site is just a week old. I have a TON to add. Working on the dictionary first. By the way, i can't wait to show ya my new bridge design. Asap.
@@jrbtc yeah i saw you had mentioned you switched to Sterling nylon cord. Cant wait to see it👍
I would be terrified to go down knowing if I made once false move that I could undo my hitch. Does your body weight being loaded prevent that or something?
The JRB Hitch is detailed on this playlist. Some of the many tests I performed are also documented. You may want to watch the one on Stability, Fault Tolerance and Release under Load. Although the exact characteristics can vary with the rope and host type, the JRB Hitch jams under load. It would require a significant amount of exertion to release yourself when you are on it. But when load is removed, it's effortless. Still, I encourage all climbers to tie and test and use carefully. You'll also want to see the one where I demonstrate how to tie it for Tether and Rappel applications.
th-cam.com/play/PLETL-PceEXkaOdAOH-UdDN1-iiODhsInE.html
@@jrbtc John, you are awesome! I appreciate your knowledge and presentation skills. Very well done. Thank you for answering my question as well. It is a most interesting world of knots and friction hitches, and because of your channel I went saddle hunting for the first time. Very exciting!
@@jimjohn6520 that's fantastic. I grew up climbing trees, ladders, scaffolding, etc. Now, i don't feel comfortable doing ANYTHING without being tied in. Its not fear of heights some have... it's fear of falling... and it's a healthy fear. Learn to test and trust your ropes and it's a different world.
@@jrbtc I took the time to watch all of the content you suggested, and that eased my fears. I will test this hitch myself and make sure I know exactly how to tie it if I implement it into my system. Very cool!
That's nice! Too hot to try in Alabama right now 🥵
Very well done but not easy to do for a beginner.
looks like a complicated two tether system, might as well just use two tethers from the start
It is similar to two tether. The advantages include:
1. A single JRB climbing system allows us to climb 4 ways: JRB, SRT, MRS or Hitch climbing.
2. Zero slack on the bridge the entire time. In 2TC, your tether is slack when you just stepped up. It doesn't pass the whistle test, which is when your climbing instructor watches you climb and blows a whistle whenever they think it might get you in trouble, and you let go of everything.
3. Tree diameter. I can climb 4inches or 4 feet.
4. Bypasses. A good hunting spot will typically have thick cover and a complex canopy. I need to bypass several branches on the way up a tree. 2TC becomes 3TC when ya have to bypass.
5. Both methods are pretty slow and not as safe as rope climbing. We should only use em when we absolutely need to. For example, you won't find any arborists who use these methods, but they all rope climbing. And so your rope system should be the primary method, and this method is like a built in backup. I believe this is slower than 2TC but working to speed it up.
6. Its handy in an emergency like when ya get to your tree in the morning and realize that a storm took it down. No problem, no throwball, no walk back to the truck to get sticks or 2TC, just climb.
I have a bunch of improvements coming as well. If its not for you, you're not alone. I only use it occasionally myself with a preference for paracord presets from throwball work months and years in advance. Cheers
thanks for that feedback brother John