Sophist is a lesser embodiement of Chaos, so I don't think he can be truly broken. The closest I've seen to it is him doing a comical rant or him saying "to the surprise of absolutely nobody" in a somewhat defeated voice.
Some of his facts are very wrong, namely his statements on "Japanese steel" are completely wrong and read like kamikoto ad, which is a Chinese scam. For a start, steel doesn't matter where it comes from in the modern day. It's all built to industrial standards with specific names like D2, 1080 ordnance, cpm-m4, 8Cr13MoV, etc. Steel advertised as "Japanese steel" just means "iron sourced from Japan" especially if it doesn't state what town it was made in, because if you're going to try to suggest a steel is better by location you'd use the town which was a way of suggesting quality prior to modern industrialization and lasted at least until the 1960's. If you want a good steel labeled in this way consider a Solingen, Germany knife from the 1940's and 50's, which were imported en-masse at that time following the end of WWII alongside quality knives from Japan, thus creating this perception because of the fact that it was premium knives being imported from very old and very well known knife-making cities. Everything that says "Japanese steel" though is a marketing ploy, usually a Chinese one aimed at western markets. Steel from Japan doesn't differ in quality from Western quality at all today. What you're instead going to get is cheap 3Cr13 or 420J2 crap. You'd be better off sharpening a steel ruler than most of these. Any time you see a modern knife ask not where it was made, unless the purpose is to support a domestic business, but to name the specific industrial steel identification it was made with. When you see a knife from 1960 and earlier then maybe talk about where it was made and investigate the culture and reputation of that location at the time. Samurai quality would be considered atrocious and massively underwhelming by today's standards. Our understanding of metal is incredibly more advanced to the steel of the Sengoku period and the techniques of folding used in the Tachi and Katana were done to compensate for poor quality steel as Japan lacked the ability to heat iron to where it melted and impurities could be removed, the folding technique was done to minimize and even out impurities. Hori hori are also terrible for knife purposes. They're an example of someone making a multitool of things that shouldn't be multitools, it's like the shovel-axe-saw thing I've seen before. It's bad. Do not buy them. They have an entirely wrong profile for a knife. It's literally a hand shovel someone put a sharp edge on. It's, again, a marketing gimmick. Next, edge retention is not the end all be all of a knife and isn't exactly accurate. What Sophist is referring to is hardness, but that's just one quality that makes good knife steel. A good steel for a knife has 4 factors: hardness, toughness, corrosion resistance, ease of sharpening. Hardness and toughness are very different things, hardness is how hard of a steel it is, how long it will retain an edge before dulling, dulling is when an edge rounds out. To be clear and to wipe away a misconception, you can make ANY material sharp, the quality of steel does not change how sharp you can make something, you can make wood or paper sharp, glass I'm sure you've noticed can be made quite sharp. The problem with hardness is that it can really damage the toughness of a blade, the ability to prevent chipping and snapping, because it can become brittle if too hard without leaving some spring to the steel. It needs to be able to return to form and take some bending exertion. Corrosion resistance is obvious, it's how resistant the steel is to rust, though you can just be more careful about cleaning and maintenance of the knife. The last, ease of sharpening, is also somewhat counter to hardness as a harder steel is usually more difficult to get sharp. You have to keep these in mind when making a blade along with blade profile and design. I don't really blame Sophist for this misconception, but it needs to be corrected to prevent people falling to scams.
@@TheOnlyDibbs I'm always happy to talk about steel and knives and such! My personal favorite designs are clip-points. I have this one bowie that I _really_ like. It's one of those old Solingens, got a thick, heavy spine, a very steep clip making the point maneuverable but backed by that heavy spine, and a long tip. Pretty sure its harder than most but that thick spine & rounded body means unless I bend the tip it should just survive the abuse without bending in the first place. There's a bunch of benefits and drawbacks to different designs. Serrations are useful for sawing but cutting, slicing, or piercing they're detrimental so keep that in mind when buying a serrated knife, for example. A thicker blade makes something durable but reduces slicing & piercing a bit as it's a wider wedge. A thin blade profile with good double bevel (both sides are sharpened to a point) is what you want on something like a kitchen knife. Generally single bevel with a thicker profile would be for things like bushcraft & hunting. For grittier details: The extremes are 12-30 degrees of material on that edge. Hunting & heavier cutting like for chopping branches you'll want something like 20-30, carving you'll want 15-20. A distinction of Japanese & Western kitchen knives is that Western tend to be heavier 18-22 degree bevel designs with flat sides for easy maintenance & care while Japanese kitchen knives are around 15 degrees, double beveled, & use a harder steel with less ease of sharpening making them a bit more fragile & hard to care for but a bit better at precise work. There are also additional aspects to beveling like compound or rounded or concave but generally you're going to want to sharpen it yourself at some point so a standard v shape is good.
@@TheOnlyDibbs Oh! Also, NEVER USE A PULL-THROUGH. Pull-through sharpeners are ATROCIOUS for your knife, they don't sharpen, they tear the blade, stripping it and damaging the material, and instead of a sharp edge you get a jagged mess which tears rather than cuts. Get a proper whetstone or similar.
Some of his facts are very wrong, namely his statements on "Japanese steel" are completely wrong and read like komikoto ad, which is a Chinese scam. I copy-paste my response here because it is important to correct misinformation. For a start, steel doesn't matter where it comes from in the modern day. It's all built to industrial standards with specific names like D2, 1080 ordnance, cpm-m4, 8Cr13MoV, etc. Steel advertised as "Japanese steel" just means "iron sourced from Japan" especially if it doesn't state what town it was made in, because if you're going to try to suggest a steel is better by location you'd use the town which was a way of suggesting quality prior to modern industrialization and lasted at least until the 1960's. If you want a good steel labeled in this way consider a Solingen, Germany knife from the 1940's and 50's, which were imported en-masse at that time following the end of WWII alongside quality knives from Japan, thus creating this perception because of the fact that it was premium knives being imported from very old and very well known knife-making cities. Everything that says "Japanese steel" though is a marketing ploy, usually a Chinese one aimed at western markets. Steel from Japan doesn't differ in quality from Western quality at all today. What you're instead going to get is cheap 3Cr13 or 420J2 crap. You'd be better off sharpening a steel ruler than most of these. Any time you see a modern knife ask not where it was made, unless the purpose is to support a domestic business, but to name the specific industrial steel identification it was made with. When you see a knife from 1960 and earlier then maybe talk about where it was made and investigate the culture and reputation of that location at the time. Samurai quality would be considered atrocious and massively underwhelming by today's standards. Our understanding of metal is incredibly more advanced to the steel of the Sengoku period and the techniques of folding used in the Tachi and Katana were done to compensate for poor quality steel as Japan lacked the ability to heat iron to where it melted and impurities could be removed, the folding technique was done to minimize and even out impurities. Hori hori are also terrible for knife purposes. They're an example of someone making a multitool of things that shouldn't be multitools, it's like the shovel-axe-saw thing I've seen before. It's bad. Do not buy them. They have an entirely wrong profile for a knife. It's literally a hand shovel someone put a sharp edge on. It's, again, a marketing gimmick. Next, edge retention is not the end all be all of a knife and isn't exactly accurate. What Sophist is referring to is hardness, but that's just one quality that makes good knife steel. A good steel for a knife has 4 factors: hardness, toughness, corrosion resistance, ease of sharpening. Hardness and toughness are very different things, hardness is how hard of a steel it is, how long it will retain an edge before dulling, dulling is when an edge rounds out. To be clear and to wipe away a misconception, you can make ANY material sharp, the quality of steel does not change how sharp you can make something, you can make wood or paper sharp, glass I'm sure you've noticed can be made quite sharp. The problem with hardness is that it can really damage the toughness of a blade, the ability to prevent chipping and snapping, because it can become brittle if too hard without leaving some spring to the steel. It needs to be able to return to form and take some bending exertion. Corrosion resistance is obvious, it's how resistant the steel is to rust, though you can just be more careful about cleaning and maintenance of the knife with oil. The last, ease of sharpening, is also somewhat counter to hardness as a harder steel is usually more difficult to get sharp. You have to keep these in mind when making a blade along with blade profile and design. I don't really blame Sophist for this misconception, but it needs to be corrected to prevent people falling to scams. *Addendum: Also never use a pull-through sharpener. Pull-through sharpeners damage the edge and leave it a jagged mess so the knife tears instead of cuts.
I feel like just like Nick didn't want to let Vernias forget he fumbled the first shot, we should never let Nick forget the Raid Boss Chance Time fumble
Man, so glad Vernias had that incredible hole-in-one that was shown multiple times within the first 3 minutes of the video. Truly a masterful shot by the GOAT
It's just too funny seeing the characters "celebrate" on bad holes, Baby Mario breaking into tears, Yoshi collapsing on the ground, Luigi curling up and hugging his knees. Also them looking so embarrassed on the scoreboard.
Can we have a moment to appreciate all the hard work the Editors are doing, to cut everything together and doing on behalf around 50 replays the second, with a short plain crash sequence in between, takes really effort and time. Good Job.
If you guys wanted to play different characters, there's a cheat code from the original N64 version that still works on this version. "On the title screen, press Down, Down, Left, Left, Left, Right, Right, Right (all on the D-Pad), then C-Down, C-Down, C-Left, C-Left, C-Left, C-Right, C-Right, C-Right. A jingle will play if you entered the code correctly. This will unlock all characters and courses, except for the Mario's Star course."
Thank you editor for all of the one piece references. You truly are my favorite one. And also at 22:16 you should’ve put room shambles since he said the funny word
I've always liked that the others never made fun of Eevee's stutter. I usually get put on blast by friends and family. It's nice to see others not be harsh or annoying
Some of his facts are very wrong, namely his statements on "Japanese steel" are completely wrong and read like kamikoto ad, which is a Chinese scam. I copy-paste my response here because it is important to correct misinformation. For a start, steel doesn't matter where it comes from in the modern day. It's all built to industrial standards with specific names like D2, 1080 ordnance, cpm-m4, 8Cr13MoV, etc. Steel advertised as "Japanese steel" just means "iron sourced from Japan" especially if it doesn't state what town it was made in, because if you're going to try to suggest a steel is better by location you'd use the town which was a way of suggesting quality prior to modern industrialization and lasted at least until the 1960's. If you want a good steel labeled in this way consider a Solingen, Germany knife from the 1940's and 50's, which were imported en-masse at that time following the end of WWII alongside quality knives from Japan, thus creating this perception because of the fact that it was premium knives being imported from very old and very well known knife-making cities. Everything that says "Japanese steel" though is a marketing ploy, usually a Chinese one aimed at western markets. Steel from Japan doesn't differ in quality from Western quality at all today. What you're instead going to get is cheap 3Cr13 or 420J2 crap. You'd be better off sharpening a steel ruler than most of these. Any time you see a modern knife ask not where it was made, unless the purpose is to support a domestic business, but to name the specific industrial steel identification it was made with. When you see a knife from 1960 and earlier then maybe talk about where it was made and investigate the culture and reputation of that location at the time. Samurai quality would be considered atrocious and massively underwhelming by today's standards. Our understanding of metal is incredibly more advanced to the steel of the Sengoku period and the techniques of folding used in the Tachi and Katana were done to compensate for poor quality steel as Japan lacked the ability to heat iron to where it melted and impurities could be removed, the folding technique was done to minimize and even out impurities. Hori hori are also terrible for knife purposes. They're an example of someone making a multitool of things that shouldn't be multitools, it's like the shovel-axe-saw thing I've seen before. It's bad. Do not buy them. They have an entirely wrong profile for a knife. It's literally a hand shovel someone put a sharp edge on. It's, again, a marketing gimmick. Next, edge retention is not the end all be all of a knife and isn't exactly accurate. What Sophist is referring to is hardness, but that's just one quality that makes good knife steel. A good steel for a knife has 4 factors: hardness, toughness, corrosion resistance, ease of sharpening. Hardness and toughness are very different things, hardness is how hard of a steel it is, how long it will retain an edge before dulling, dulling is when an edge rounds out. To be clear and to wipe away a misconception, you can make ANY material sharp, the quality of steel does not change how sharp you can make something, you can make wood or paper sharp, glass I'm sure you've noticed can be made quite sharp. The problem with hardness is that it can really damage the toughness of a blade, the ability to prevent chipping and snapping, because it can become brittle if too tough without leaving some spring to the steel. It needs to be able to return to form and take some bending exertion. Corrosion resistance is obvious, it's how resistant the steel is to rust. The last, ease of sharpening, is also somewhat counter to hardness as a harder steel is usually more difficult to get sharp. You have to keep these in mind when making a blade along with blade profile and design. I don't really blame Sophist for this misconception, but it needs to be corrected to prevent people falling to scams. *Addendum: Also never use a pull-through sharpener. Pull-through sharpeners damage the edge and leave it a jagged mess so the knife tears instead of cuts now.
It is definitely a great saga in this video. Sophist took the time to fully explain what knives are and provided several great examples of each knife. What a wonderful description to this video.
Some of his facts are very wrong, namely his statements on "Japanese steel" are completely wrong and read like kamikoto ad, which is a Chinese scam. I copy-paste my response here because it is important to correct misinformation. For a start, steel doesn't matter where it comes from in the modern day. It's all built to industrial standards with specific names like D2, 1080 ordnance, cpm-m4, 8Cr13MoV, etc. Steel advertised as "Japanese steel" just means "iron sourced from Japan" especially if it doesn't state what town it was made in, because if you're going to try to suggest a steel is better by location you'd use the town which was a way of suggesting quality prior to modern industrialization and lasted at least until the 1960's. If you want a good steel labeled in this way consider a Solingen, Germany knife from the 1940's and 50's, which were imported en-masse at that time following the end of WWII alongside quality knives from Japan, thus creating this perception because of the fact that it was premium knives being imported from very old and very well known knife-making cities. Everything that says "Japanese steel" though is a marketing ploy, usually a Chinese one aimed at western markets. Steel from Japan doesn't differ in quality from Western quality at all today. What you're instead going to get is cheap 3Cr13 or 420J2 crap. You'd be better off sharpening a steel ruler than most of these. Any time you see a modern knife ask not where it was made, unless the purpose is to support a domestic business, but to name the specific industrial steel identification it was made with. When you see a knife from 1960 and earlier then maybe talk about where it was made and investigate the culture and reputation of that location at the time. Samurai quality would be considered atrocious and massively underwhelming by today's standards. Our understanding of metal is incredibly more advanced to the steel of the Sengoku period and the techniques of folding used in the Tachi and Katana were done to compensate for poor quality steel as Japan lacked the ability to heat iron to where it melted and impurities could be removed, the folding technique was done to minimize and even out impurities. Hori hori are also terrible for knife purposes. They're an example of someone making a multitool of things that shouldn't be multitools, it's like the shovel-axe-saw thing I've seen before. It's bad. Do not buy them. They have an entirely wrong profile for a knife. It's literally a hand shovel someone put a sharp edge on. It's, again, a marketing gimmick. Next, edge retention is not the end all be all of a knife and isn't exactly accurate. What Sophist is referring to is hardness, but that's just one quality that makes good knife steel. A good steel for a knife has 4 factors: hardness, toughness, corrosion resistance, ease of sharpening. Hardness and toughness are very different things, hardness is how hard of a steel it is, how long it will retain an edge before dulling, dulling is when an edge rounds out. To be clear and to wipe away a misconception, you can make ANY material sharp, the quality of steel does not change how sharp you can make something, you can make wood or paper sharp, glass I'm sure you've noticed can be made quite sharp. The problem with hardness is that it can really damage the toughness of a blade, the ability to prevent chipping and snapping, because it can become brittle if too hard without leaving some spring to the steel. It needs to be able to return to form and take some bending exertion. Corrosion resistance is obvious, it's how resistant the steel is to rust, though you can just be more careful about cleaning and maintenance of the knife. The last, ease of sharpening, is also somewhat counter to hardness as a harder steel is usually more difficult to get sharp. You have to keep these in mind when making a blade along with blade profile and design. I don't really blame Sophist for this misconception, but it needs to be corrected to prevent people falling to scams. *Addendum: Also never use a pull-through sharpener. Pull-through sharpeners damage the edge and leave it a jagged mess so the knife tears instead of cuts.
Did I mention how bad I am at Golf? I tried it on Wii Sports. Could not get a 🕳️ in 1. OH! Sophist at it again, educating us about utensils! You love to see it, as Feralinape would say. Thank you, once again Sophist, for I have now learned about the one-pronged sharp fork!
Fun fact! Knives were originally also used the way forks are, by stabbing the food to move it. Forks are an off-branch of knives. Also, to correct some of the things sophist said: Some of his facts are very wrong, namely his statements on "Japanese steel" are completely wrong and read like kamikoto ad, which is a Chinese scam. I copy-paste my response here because it is important to correct misinformation. For a start, steel doesn't matter where it comes from in the modern day. It's all built to industrial standards with specific names like D2, 1080 ordnance, cpm-m4, 8Cr13MoV, etc. Steel advertised as "Japanese steel" just means "iron sourced from Japan" especially if it doesn't state what town it was made in, because if you're going to try to suggest a steel is better by location you'd use the town which was a way of suggesting quality prior to modern industrialization and lasted at least until the 1960's. If you want a good steel labeled in this way consider a Solingen, Germany knife from the 1940's and 50's, which were imported en-masse at that time following the end of WWII alongside quality knives from Japan, thus creating this perception because of the fact that it was premium knives being imported from very old and very well known knife-making cities. Everything that says "Japanese steel" though is a marketing ploy, usually a Chinese one aimed at western markets. Steel from Japan doesn't differ in quality from Western quality at all today. What you're instead going to get is cheap 8Cr13MoV or 420J2 crap. You'd be better off sharpening a steel ruler than most of these. Any time you see a modern knife ask not where it was made, unless the purpose is to support a domestic business, but to name the specific industrial steel identification it was made with. When you see a knife from 1960 and earlier then maybe talk about where it was made and investigate the culture and reputation of that location at the time. Samurai quality would be considered atrocious and massively underwhelming by today's standards. Our understanding of metal is incredibly more advanced to the steel of the Sengoku period and the techniques of folding used in the Tachi and Katana were done to compensate for poor quality steel as Japan lacked the ability to heat iron to where it melted and impurities could be removed, the folding technique was done to minimize and even out impurities. Hori hori are also terrible for knife purposes. They're an example of someone making a multitool of things that shouldn't be multitools, it's like the shovel-axe-saw thing I've seen before. It's bad. Do not buy them. They have an entirely wrong profile for a knife. It's literally a hand shovel someone put a sharp edge on. It's, again, a marketing gimmick. Next, edge retention is not the end all be all of a knife and isn't exactly accurate. What Sophist is referring to is hardness, but that's just one quality that makes good knife steel. A good steel for a knife has 4 factors: hardness, toughness, corrosion resistance, ease of sharpening. Hardness and toughness are very different things, hardness is how hard of a steel it is, how long it will retain an edge before dulling, dulling is when an edge rounds out. To be clear and to wipe away a misconception, you can make ANY material sharp, the quality of steel does not change how sharp you can make something, you can make wood or paper sharp, glass I'm sure you've noticed can be made quite sharp. The problem with hardness is that it can really damage the toughness of a blade, the ability to prevent chipping and snapping, because it can become brittle if too tough without leaving some spring to the steel. It needs to be able to return to form and take some bending exertion. Corrosion resistance is obvious, it's how resistant the steel is to rust. The last, ease of sharpening, is also somewhat counter to hardness as a harder steel is usually more difficult to get sharp. You have to keep these in mind when making a blade along with blade profile and design. I don't really blame Sophist for this misconception, but it needs to be corrected to prevent people falling to scams. *Addendum: Also never use a pull-through sharpener. Pull-through sharpeners damage the edge and leave it a jagged mess so the knife tears instead of cuts.
Some of his facts are very wrong, namely his statements on "Japanese steel" are completely wrong and read like komikoto ad, which is a Chinese scam. I copy-paste my response here because it is important to correct misinformation. For a start, steel doesn't matter where it comes from in the modern day. It's all built to industrial standards with specific names like D2, 1080 ordnance, cpm-m4, 8Cr13MoV, etc. Steel advertised as "Japanese steel" just means "iron sourced from Japan" especially if it doesn't state what town it was made in, because if you're going to try to suggest a steel is better by location you'd use the town which was a way of suggesting quality prior to modern industrialization and lasted at least until the 1960's. If you want a good steel labeled in this way consider a Solingen, Germany knife from the 1940's and 50's, which were imported en-masse at that time following the end of WWII alongside quality knives from Japan, thus creating this perception because of the fact that it was premium knives being imported from very old and very well known knife-making cities. Everything that says "Japanese steel" though is a marketing ploy, usually a Chinese one aimed at western markets. Steel from Japan doesn't differ in quality from Western quality at all today. What you're instead going to get is cheap 8Cr13MoV or 420J2 crap. You'd be better off sharpening a steel ruler than most of these. Any time you see a modern knife ask not where it was made, unless the purpose is to support a domestic business, but to name the specific industrial steel identification it was made with. When you see a knife from 1960 and earlier then maybe talk about where it was made and investigate the culture and reputation of that location at the time. Samurai quality would be considered atrocious and massively underwhelming by today's standards. Our understanding of metal is incredibly more advanced to the steel of the Sengoku period and the techniques of folding used in the Tachi and Katana were done to compensate for poor quality steel as Japan lacked the ability to heat iron to where it melted and impurities could be removed, the folding technique was done to minimize and even out impurities. Hori hori are also terrible for knife purposes. They're an example of someone making a multitool of things that shouldn't be multitools, it's like the shovel-axe-saw thing I've seen before. It's bad. Do not buy them. They have an entirely wrong profile for a knife. It's literally a hand shovel someone put a sharp edge on. It's, again, a marketing gimmick. Next, edge retention is not the end all be all of a knife and isn't exactly accurate. What Sophist is referring to is hardness, but that's just one quality that makes good knife steel. A good steel for a knife has 4 factors: hardness, toughness, corrosion resistance, ease of sharpening. Hardness and toughness are very different things, hardness is how hard of a steel it is, how long it will retain an edge before dulling, dulling is when an edge rounds out. To be clear and to wipe away a misconception, you can make ANY material sharp, the quality of steel does not change how sharp you can make something, you can make wood or paper sharp, glass I'm sure you've noticed can be made quite sharp. The problem with hardness is that it can really damage the toughness of a blade, the ability to prevent chipping and snapping, because it can become brittle if too tough without leaving some spring to the steel. It needs to be able to return to form and take some bending exertion. Corrosion resistance is obvious, it's how resistant the steel is to rust. The last, ease of sharpening, is also somewhat counter to hardness as a harder steel is usually more difficult to get sharp. You have to keep these in mind when making a blade. I don't really blame Sophist for this misconception, but it needs to be corrected to prevent people falling to scams. *Addendum: Also never use a pull-through sharpener. Pull-through sharpeners damage the edge and leave it a jagged mess so the knife tears instead of cuts now.
Good round! This game has one of the steepest learning curves of any Mario game. The Mario Golf games after this add many more quality of life enhancements to be a little more forgiving. Someone please tell Vern to stop putting from the rough! 😅
It was great that kind of started to get putting right as the rain started so it add some changes to how to guess the power since rain slows the ball faster
THE PEOPLE DEMAND MORE GOLF! I desire the four of you to play more, and to perhaps suffer through unlocking characters and stages. *Wario; bane of my progress*
It is SOOO weird casually watching this video before you see an edit that you destictively remember seeing in a Twitter post recently. Then you find it, the editor replying to a post from PC's massive editor's revisions told by Vernias, them showing a picture of a revision of this exact video from Nick. The part I remembered was this edit with "*(unless you're eevee)" at 8:23. The connections are almost too uncanny.
Tip: before you hit the ball, you can align what trajectory the ball can go with the left stick Personally you should do it in a situation where the ball is infront of like a tree or something, and you should time it at the same time you hit A at the red line It can be very useful in situations like what happened to Eevee at Hole 18 that he had to go back
The most replayed part ended up being Eevee asking the editor to insert the green screen plane crash every time the game lagged. All four of them failed to predict it.
Usually if you cant exit a level or whatever in a game the option is either greyed out or not there. But the way it said “you cant leave on first stroke” sounds so sarcastic and rude it’s honestly funny XD
Here are some tips for you guys when ever you play this again. Use Power shot when using a driver especially on the first shot. Normal shot is to be used for the 9, 8, and 5 Irons. Normal shot is also to be used with the Wedge when you're in a bunker. Your putting is fine but learn the slopes cause they can help you if you know when to overshoot the hole to put the slope to your advantage.
Just for future reference if you guys want to play as Maple, DK, Bowser, and Metal Mario, there's a cheat code you can input on the title screen to unlock them.
You guys got the putting right but the rain stops your ball faster so keep that in mind! Also the two number under the ball show the percentage of power you get from your hit
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Guess is way easier to break every videogame over breaking Sophist.
Flashbacks to the game where nick wasn’t toxic
Breaking sophist the series where Walter white and eevee fused to go a adventure
You would sooner cure the Joker of his insanity before breaking Eevee.
Sophist is a lesser embodiement of Chaos, so I don't think he can be truly broken.
The closest I've seen to it is him doing a comical rant or him saying "to the surprise of absolutely nobody" in a somewhat defeated voice.
@botmaster69420i was gonna say that
The leader of the Sophisticated Society has once again graced us with the knowledge of kitchen utensils.
I think maybe instead of Leader, Sophist might be the Head of this society. I mean we all just rethink what he thinks, therefore our brains are one.
@@problempixel-ian266321:33
Can we all just appreciate the editor and what he does please?
Yes. Appreciate the editor.
Actual MVP
yeah that editor guy is really cool and based and awesome
This is so true.
Editor, please insert a wet fart sound effect.
🤓☝️
After reading the description, I'd like to thank Sophist for teaching me information on knives.
Better be more "Sophist Says", or I riot
Some of his facts are very wrong, namely his statements on "Japanese steel" are completely wrong and read like kamikoto ad, which is a Chinese scam.
For a start, steel doesn't matter where it comes from in the modern day. It's all built to industrial standards with specific names like D2, 1080 ordnance, cpm-m4, 8Cr13MoV, etc. Steel advertised as "Japanese steel" just means "iron sourced from Japan" especially if it doesn't state what town it was made in, because if you're going to try to suggest a steel is better by location you'd use the town which was a way of suggesting quality prior to modern industrialization and lasted at least until the 1960's. If you want a good steel labeled in this way consider a Solingen, Germany knife from the 1940's and 50's, which were imported en-masse at that time following the end of WWII alongside quality knives from Japan, thus creating this perception because of the fact that it was premium knives being imported from very old and very well known knife-making cities. Everything that says "Japanese steel" though is a marketing ploy, usually a Chinese one aimed at western markets. Steel from Japan doesn't differ in quality from Western quality at all today. What you're instead going to get is cheap 3Cr13 or 420J2 crap. You'd be better off sharpening a steel ruler than most of these.
Any time you see a modern knife ask not where it was made, unless the purpose is to support a domestic business, but to name the specific industrial steel identification it was made with. When you see a knife from 1960 and earlier then maybe talk about where it was made and investigate the culture and reputation of that location at the time.
Samurai quality would be considered atrocious and massively underwhelming by today's standards. Our understanding of metal is incredibly more advanced to the steel of the Sengoku period and the techniques of folding used in the Tachi and Katana were done to compensate for poor quality steel as Japan lacked the ability to heat iron to where it melted and impurities could be removed, the folding technique was done to minimize and even out impurities.
Hori hori are also terrible for knife purposes. They're an example of someone making a multitool of things that shouldn't be multitools, it's like the shovel-axe-saw thing I've seen before. It's bad. Do not buy them. They have an entirely wrong profile for a knife. It's literally a hand shovel someone put a sharp edge on. It's, again, a marketing gimmick.
Next, edge retention is not the end all be all of a knife and isn't exactly accurate. What Sophist is referring to is hardness, but that's just one quality that makes good knife steel. A good steel for a knife has 4 factors: hardness, toughness, corrosion resistance, ease of sharpening. Hardness and toughness are very different things, hardness is how hard of a steel it is, how long it will retain an edge before dulling, dulling is when an edge rounds out. To be clear and to wipe away a misconception, you can make ANY material sharp, the quality of steel does not change how sharp you can make something, you can make wood or paper sharp, glass I'm sure you've noticed can be made quite sharp. The problem with hardness is that it can really damage the toughness of a blade, the ability to prevent chipping and snapping, because it can become brittle if too hard without leaving some spring to the steel. It needs to be able to return to form and take some bending exertion. Corrosion resistance is obvious, it's how resistant the steel is to rust, though you can just be more careful about cleaning and maintenance of the knife. The last, ease of sharpening, is also somewhat counter to hardness as a harder steel is usually more difficult to get sharp. You have to keep these in mind when making a blade along with blade profile and design.
I don't really blame Sophist for this misconception, but it needs to be corrected to prevent people falling to scams.
@@pubcle... and knowing is half the battle!
G.I. Joooeeee...
Really interesting info, though, thanks. For real.
@@TheOnlyDibbs I'm always happy to talk about steel and knives and such! My personal favorite designs are clip-points. I have this one bowie that I _really_ like. It's one of those old Solingens, got a thick, heavy spine, a very steep clip making the point maneuverable but backed by that heavy spine, and a long tip. Pretty sure its harder than most but that thick spine & rounded body means unless I bend the tip it should just survive the abuse without bending in the first place. There's a bunch of benefits and drawbacks to different designs. Serrations are useful for sawing but cutting, slicing, or piercing they're detrimental so keep that in mind when buying a serrated knife, for example. A thicker blade makes something durable but reduces slicing & piercing a bit as it's a wider wedge. A thin blade profile with good double bevel (both sides are sharpened to a point) is what you want on something like a kitchen knife. Generally single bevel with a thicker profile would be for things like bushcraft & hunting.
For grittier details: The extremes are 12-30 degrees of material on that edge. Hunting & heavier cutting like for chopping branches you'll want something like 20-30, carving you'll want 15-20. A distinction of Japanese & Western kitchen knives is that Western tend to be heavier 18-22 degree bevel designs with flat sides for easy maintenance & care while Japanese kitchen knives are around 15 degrees, double beveled, & use a harder steel with less ease of sharpening making them a bit more fragile & hard to care for but a bit better at precise work. There are also additional aspects to beveling like compound or rounded or concave but generally you're going to want to sharpen it yourself at some point so a standard v shape is good.
@@TheOnlyDibbs Oh! Also, NEVER USE A PULL-THROUGH.
Pull-through sharpeners are ATROCIOUS for your knife, they don't sharpen, they tear the blade, stripping it and damaging the material, and instead of a sharp edge you get a jagged mess which tears rather than cuts. Get a proper whetstone or similar.
Damn sophist just telling us every single fact he knows about knives
Some of his facts are very wrong, namely his statements on "Japanese steel" are completely wrong and read like komikoto ad, which is a Chinese scam. I copy-paste my response here because it is important to correct misinformation.
For a start, steel doesn't matter where it comes from in the modern day. It's all built to industrial standards with specific names like D2, 1080 ordnance, cpm-m4, 8Cr13MoV, etc. Steel advertised as "Japanese steel" just means "iron sourced from Japan" especially if it doesn't state what town it was made in, because if you're going to try to suggest a steel is better by location you'd use the town which was a way of suggesting quality prior to modern industrialization and lasted at least until the 1960's. If you want a good steel labeled in this way consider a Solingen, Germany knife from the 1940's and 50's, which were imported en-masse at that time following the end of WWII alongside quality knives from Japan, thus creating this perception because of the fact that it was premium knives being imported from very old and very well known knife-making cities. Everything that says "Japanese steel" though is a marketing ploy, usually a Chinese one aimed at western markets. Steel from Japan doesn't differ in quality from Western quality at all today. What you're instead going to get is cheap 3Cr13 or 420J2 crap. You'd be better off sharpening a steel ruler than most of these.
Any time you see a modern knife ask not where it was made, unless the purpose is to support a domestic business, but to name the specific industrial steel identification it was made with. When you see a knife from 1960 and earlier then maybe talk about where it was made and investigate the culture and reputation of that location at the time.
Samurai quality would be considered atrocious and massively underwhelming by today's standards. Our understanding of metal is incredibly more advanced to the steel of the Sengoku period and the techniques of folding used in the Tachi and Katana were done to compensate for poor quality steel as Japan lacked the ability to heat iron to where it melted and impurities could be removed, the folding technique was done to minimize and even out impurities.
Hori hori are also terrible for knife purposes. They're an example of someone making a multitool of things that shouldn't be multitools, it's like the shovel-axe-saw thing I've seen before. It's bad. Do not buy them. They have an entirely wrong profile for a knife. It's literally a hand shovel someone put a sharp edge on. It's, again, a marketing gimmick.
Next, edge retention is not the end all be all of a knife and isn't exactly accurate. What Sophist is referring to is hardness, but that's just one quality that makes good knife steel. A good steel for a knife has 4 factors: hardness, toughness, corrosion resistance, ease of sharpening. Hardness and toughness are very different things, hardness is how hard of a steel it is, how long it will retain an edge before dulling, dulling is when an edge rounds out. To be clear and to wipe away a misconception, you can make ANY material sharp, the quality of steel does not change how sharp you can make something, you can make wood or paper sharp, glass I'm sure you've noticed can be made quite sharp. The problem with hardness is that it can really damage the toughness of a blade, the ability to prevent chipping and snapping, because it can become brittle if too hard without leaving some spring to the steel. It needs to be able to return to form and take some bending exertion. Corrosion resistance is obvious, it's how resistant the steel is to rust, though you can just be more careful about cleaning and maintenance of the knife with oil. The last, ease of sharpening, is also somewhat counter to hardness as a harder steel is usually more difficult to get sharp. You have to keep these in mind when making a blade along with blade profile and design.
I don't really blame Sophist for this misconception, but it needs to be corrected to prevent people falling to scams.
*Addendum: Also never use a pull-through sharpener. Pull-through sharpeners damage the edge and leave it a jagged mess so the knife tears instead of cuts.
@@pubcle🤓
@@kbthegoatwAnd I respect them for sharing their knowledge with us. 🧐
@@pubcleI respect you for you knowledge but its 12:05 and I reading a party crashers comment section so I humbly don't care right now.
14:51 Brent really put all of his brain cells into that one putt calculation and then immediately returned to monke
That’s how the King rolls.
I feel like just like Nick didn't want to let Vernias forget he fumbled the first shot, we should never let Nick forget the Raid Boss Chance Time fumble
15:52 It's the lost ancient tech of making weird ass sounds to make sure your ball does not go in the bunker,the drink, or Out of Bounds.
Man, so glad Vernias had that incredible hole-in-one that was shown multiple times within the first 3 minutes of the video. Truly a masterful shot by the GOAT
The first time an editor censored Nick's insult in Spanish, this video will make history
17:48
i just wanted to cover all my bases
@@s.c.m.r. That's awesome man, I love the work y'all do for editing
@@s.c.m.r.Nick is known to drop the “p” word in Spanish an awful lot…
@@ThePureSynergist this is the first time he's said it in a video I've worked on
@@s.c.m.r. Respect o7
It's just too funny seeing the characters "celebrate" on bad holes, Baby Mario breaking into tears, Yoshi collapsing on the ground, Luigi curling up and hugging his knees. Also them looking so embarrassed on the scoreboard.
7:08 the comvined laugh is incredible
9:00 Vernias fumbling his shots replay button for y'all
Thank you so much.
I'm just waiting to hear "Imagine being in last place with zero Pars".
More Mario Golf, time to witness the incredible skill the Party Crashers have.
What skill?
You guys should unironically keep playing this. The later courses get pretty ridiculous and your dynamic can make even golf entertaining.
Can we have a moment to appreciate all the hard work the Editors are doing, to cut everything together and doing on behalf around 50 replays the second, with a short plain crash sequence in between, takes really effort and time.
Good Job.
So happy this game has returned, I'm sure Vernias is ecstatic to be playing this again :)
If Nick brought up that fumble again, I think Vern would go as apeshit as Nick did on Wario's Battle Canyon.
Honestly he improved quite a bit.
14:35 good to know when I have sleeping problems I can just listen to Brent explaining game mechanic's.
If you guys wanted to play different characters, there's a cheat code from the original N64 version that still works on this version.
"On the title screen, press Down, Down, Left, Left, Left, Right, Right, Right (all on the D-Pad), then C-Down, C-Down, C-Left, C-Left, C-Left, C-Right, C-Right, C-Right. A jingle will play if you entered the code correctly. This will unlock all characters and courses, except for the Mario's Star course."
Can’t wait to see Sophist win every game.
@@speedman8365 no because Eevee’s white
@@zeke3620 it’s an ongoing joke, just go with it
@@THE__Legend_27 makes perfect sense
U gotta love Evee's commitment to bring us information about knives
Thank you editor for all of the one piece references. You truly are my favorite one. And also at 22:16 you should’ve put room shambles since he said the funny word
ima be honest. I had it in my notes but I forgot to add it
I've always liked that the others never made fun of Eevee's stutter. I usually get put on blast by friends and family. It's nice to see others not be harsh or annoying
16:43 nice "rpg but math is the combat system" reference
I’ve never seen them so relaxed, this is surreal
thank you sophist for the fun facts about knives in the description. truly appreciate it.
Some of his facts are very wrong, namely his statements on "Japanese steel" are completely wrong and read like kamikoto ad, which is a Chinese scam. I copy-paste my response here because it is important to correct misinformation.
For a start, steel doesn't matter where it comes from in the modern day. It's all built to industrial standards with specific names like D2, 1080 ordnance, cpm-m4, 8Cr13MoV, etc. Steel advertised as "Japanese steel" just means "iron sourced from Japan" especially if it doesn't state what town it was made in, because if you're going to try to suggest a steel is better by location you'd use the town which was a way of suggesting quality prior to modern industrialization and lasted at least until the 1960's. If you want a good steel labeled in this way consider a Solingen, Germany knife from the 1940's and 50's, which were imported en-masse at that time following the end of WWII alongside quality knives from Japan, thus creating this perception because of the fact that it was premium knives being imported from very old and very well known knife-making cities. Everything that says "Japanese steel" though is a marketing ploy, usually a Chinese one aimed at western markets. Steel from Japan doesn't differ in quality from Western quality at all today. What you're instead going to get is cheap 3Cr13 or 420J2 crap. You'd be better off sharpening a steel ruler than most of these.
Any time you see a modern knife ask not where it was made, unless the purpose is to support a domestic business, but to name the specific industrial steel identification it was made with. When you see a knife from 1960 and earlier then maybe talk about where it was made and investigate the culture and reputation of that location at the time.
Samurai quality would be considered atrocious and massively underwhelming by today's standards. Our understanding of metal is incredibly more advanced to the steel of the Sengoku period and the techniques of folding used in the Tachi and Katana were done to compensate for poor quality steel as Japan lacked the ability to heat iron to where it melted and impurities could be removed, the folding technique was done to minimize and even out impurities.
Hori hori are also terrible for knife purposes. They're an example of someone making a multitool of things that shouldn't be multitools, it's like the shovel-axe-saw thing I've seen before. It's bad. Do not buy them. They have an entirely wrong profile for a knife. It's literally a hand shovel someone put a sharp edge on. It's, again, a marketing gimmick.
Next, edge retention is not the end all be all of a knife and isn't exactly accurate. What Sophist is referring to is hardness, but that's just one quality that makes good knife steel. A good steel for a knife has 4 factors: hardness, toughness, corrosion resistance, ease of sharpening. Hardness and toughness are very different things, hardness is how hard of a steel it is, how long it will retain an edge before dulling, dulling is when an edge rounds out. To be clear and to wipe away a misconception, you can make ANY material sharp, the quality of steel does not change how sharp you can make something, you can make wood or paper sharp, glass I'm sure you've noticed can be made quite sharp. The problem with hardness is that it can really damage the toughness of a blade, the ability to prevent chipping and snapping, because it can become brittle if too tough without leaving some spring to the steel. It needs to be able to return to form and take some bending exertion. Corrosion resistance is obvious, it's how resistant the steel is to rust. The last, ease of sharpening, is also somewhat counter to hardness as a harder steel is usually more difficult to get sharp. You have to keep these in mind when making a blade along with blade profile and design.
I don't really blame Sophist for this misconception, but it needs to be corrected to prevent people falling to scams.
*Addendum: Also never use a pull-through sharpener. Pull-through sharpeners damage the edge and leave it a jagged mess so the knife tears instead of cuts now.
@@pubcle🤓
@@kbthegoatwbro shut your mouth your not funny at least I read it and don't get scammed I'd rather be a nerd than get scammed
@@kbthegoatw Get off his ass he just clearing things up
plum will forever be my favorite super mario character
That “doki doki plum club” glitch edit messed me up the first time around
With so many editor replays, we end up watching the video again
we need more fun facts from sophist in the descriptions
The fun facts about knives after the fun facts about spoons is the perfect sequel
It is definitely a great saga in this video. Sophist took the time to fully explain what knives are and provided several great examples of each knife. What a wonderful description to this video.
Some of his facts are very wrong, namely his statements on "Japanese steel" are completely wrong and read like kamikoto ad, which is a Chinese scam. I copy-paste my response here because it is important to correct misinformation.
For a start, steel doesn't matter where it comes from in the modern day. It's all built to industrial standards with specific names like D2, 1080 ordnance, cpm-m4, 8Cr13MoV, etc. Steel advertised as "Japanese steel" just means "iron sourced from Japan" especially if it doesn't state what town it was made in, because if you're going to try to suggest a steel is better by location you'd use the town which was a way of suggesting quality prior to modern industrialization and lasted at least until the 1960's. If you want a good steel labeled in this way consider a Solingen, Germany knife from the 1940's and 50's, which were imported en-masse at that time following the end of WWII alongside quality knives from Japan, thus creating this perception because of the fact that it was premium knives being imported from very old and very well known knife-making cities. Everything that says "Japanese steel" though is a marketing ploy, usually a Chinese one aimed at western markets. Steel from Japan doesn't differ in quality from Western quality at all today. What you're instead going to get is cheap 3Cr13 or 420J2 crap. You'd be better off sharpening a steel ruler than most of these.
Any time you see a modern knife ask not where it was made, unless the purpose is to support a domestic business, but to name the specific industrial steel identification it was made with. When you see a knife from 1960 and earlier then maybe talk about where it was made and investigate the culture and reputation of that location at the time.
Samurai quality would be considered atrocious and massively underwhelming by today's standards. Our understanding of metal is incredibly more advanced to the steel of the Sengoku period and the techniques of folding used in the Tachi and Katana were done to compensate for poor quality steel as Japan lacked the ability to heat iron to where it melted and impurities could be removed, the folding technique was done to minimize and even out impurities.
Hori hori are also terrible for knife purposes. They're an example of someone making a multitool of things that shouldn't be multitools, it's like the shovel-axe-saw thing I've seen before. It's bad. Do not buy them. They have an entirely wrong profile for a knife. It's literally a hand shovel someone put a sharp edge on. It's, again, a marketing gimmick.
Next, edge retention is not the end all be all of a knife and isn't exactly accurate. What Sophist is referring to is hardness, but that's just one quality that makes good knife steel. A good steel for a knife has 4 factors: hardness, toughness, corrosion resistance, ease of sharpening. Hardness and toughness are very different things, hardness is how hard of a steel it is, how long it will retain an edge before dulling, dulling is when an edge rounds out. To be clear and to wipe away a misconception, you can make ANY material sharp, the quality of steel does not change how sharp you can make something, you can make wood or paper sharp, glass I'm sure you've noticed can be made quite sharp. The problem with hardness is that it can really damage the toughness of a blade, the ability to prevent chipping and snapping, because it can become brittle if too hard without leaving some spring to the steel. It needs to be able to return to form and take some bending exertion. Corrosion resistance is obvious, it's how resistant the steel is to rust, though you can just be more careful about cleaning and maintenance of the knife. The last, ease of sharpening, is also somewhat counter to hardness as a harder steel is usually more difficult to get sharp. You have to keep these in mind when making a blade along with blade profile and design.
I don't really blame Sophist for this misconception, but it needs to be corrected to prevent people falling to scams.
*Addendum: Also never use a pull-through sharpener. Pull-through sharpeners damage the edge and leave it a jagged mess so the knife tears instead of cuts.
@@pubcleEevee moment
@@pubcle🤓
@@pubcleyou should be the commander of the sophisticated society
7:02
Eevee: This will definitely not be the most replayed part of the video!
Me: (Proceeds to spend the next 5 minutes clicking on this part) 🤣
5:40 "Maybe you should start frubaboobgap" -Vernias
Did I mention how bad I am at Golf? I tried it on Wii Sports. Could not get a 🕳️ in 1.
OH! Sophist at it again, educating us about utensils! You love to see it, as Feralinape would say. Thank you, once again Sophist, for I have now learned about the one-pronged sharp fork!
Fun fact! Knives were originally also used the way forks are, by stabbing the food to move it. Forks are an off-branch of knives.
Also, to correct some of the things sophist said:
Some of his facts are very wrong, namely his statements on "Japanese steel" are completely wrong and read like kamikoto ad, which is a Chinese scam. I copy-paste my response here because it is important to correct misinformation.
For a start, steel doesn't matter where it comes from in the modern day. It's all built to industrial standards with specific names like D2, 1080 ordnance, cpm-m4, 8Cr13MoV, etc. Steel advertised as "Japanese steel" just means "iron sourced from Japan" especially if it doesn't state what town it was made in, because if you're going to try to suggest a steel is better by location you'd use the town which was a way of suggesting quality prior to modern industrialization and lasted at least until the 1960's. If you want a good steel labeled in this way consider a Solingen, Germany knife from the 1940's and 50's, which were imported en-masse at that time following the end of WWII alongside quality knives from Japan, thus creating this perception because of the fact that it was premium knives being imported from very old and very well known knife-making cities. Everything that says "Japanese steel" though is a marketing ploy, usually a Chinese one aimed at western markets. Steel from Japan doesn't differ in quality from Western quality at all today. What you're instead going to get is cheap 8Cr13MoV or 420J2 crap. You'd be better off sharpening a steel ruler than most of these.
Any time you see a modern knife ask not where it was made, unless the purpose is to support a domestic business, but to name the specific industrial steel identification it was made with. When you see a knife from 1960 and earlier then maybe talk about where it was made and investigate the culture and reputation of that location at the time.
Samurai quality would be considered atrocious and massively underwhelming by today's standards. Our understanding of metal is incredibly more advanced to the steel of the Sengoku period and the techniques of folding used in the Tachi and Katana were done to compensate for poor quality steel as Japan lacked the ability to heat iron to where it melted and impurities could be removed, the folding technique was done to minimize and even out impurities.
Hori hori are also terrible for knife purposes. They're an example of someone making a multitool of things that shouldn't be multitools, it's like the shovel-axe-saw thing I've seen before. It's bad. Do not buy them. They have an entirely wrong profile for a knife. It's literally a hand shovel someone put a sharp edge on. It's, again, a marketing gimmick.
Next, edge retention is not the end all be all of a knife and isn't exactly accurate. What Sophist is referring to is hardness, but that's just one quality that makes good knife steel. A good steel for a knife has 4 factors: hardness, toughness, corrosion resistance, ease of sharpening. Hardness and toughness are very different things, hardness is how hard of a steel it is, how long it will retain an edge before dulling, dulling is when an edge rounds out. To be clear and to wipe away a misconception, you can make ANY material sharp, the quality of steel does not change how sharp you can make something, you can make wood or paper sharp, glass I'm sure you've noticed can be made quite sharp. The problem with hardness is that it can really damage the toughness of a blade, the ability to prevent chipping and snapping, because it can become brittle if too tough without leaving some spring to the steel. It needs to be able to return to form and take some bending exertion. Corrosion resistance is obvious, it's how resistant the steel is to rust. The last, ease of sharpening, is also somewhat counter to hardness as a harder steel is usually more difficult to get sharp. You have to keep these in mind when making a blade along with blade profile and design.
I don't really blame Sophist for this misconception, but it needs to be corrected to prevent people falling to scams.
*Addendum: Also never use a pull-through sharpener. Pull-through sharpeners damage the edge and leave it a jagged mess so the knife tears instead of cuts.
@@pubcle🤓
@@pubcleWhat incredible knowledge!😮
Heyy new video. I really had a very Bad day and these video always cheer me UP. I'm exicted to watch it.😁😁😁.
Man, I love learning fun facts about knives. Haa Haa Haa...
CUT MY LIFE INTO PIECES!!!
The thumbs up rat from the editor is my new favorite thing!
Me binge watching Party Crashers for the last 4 hours and then making a new video
loving the knife facts sophist!
I got reccomended a knife ad and then i read the description... thanks sophist 🤦🏽♂️
Love this series; if we get another video, we need a "Party Crashers go ACTUAL golfing"
I gotta say. The editing….. is on point 👌
i try
I've been waiting on the second part. Glad it got made
Thank you Sophist for teaching us about knives.
Some of his facts are very wrong, namely his statements on "Japanese steel" are completely wrong and read like komikoto ad, which is a Chinese scam. I copy-paste my response here because it is important to correct misinformation.
For a start, steel doesn't matter where it comes from in the modern day. It's all built to industrial standards with specific names like D2, 1080 ordnance, cpm-m4, 8Cr13MoV, etc. Steel advertised as "Japanese steel" just means "iron sourced from Japan" especially if it doesn't state what town it was made in, because if you're going to try to suggest a steel is better by location you'd use the town which was a way of suggesting quality prior to modern industrialization and lasted at least until the 1960's. If you want a good steel labeled in this way consider a Solingen, Germany knife from the 1940's and 50's, which were imported en-masse at that time following the end of WWII alongside quality knives from Japan, thus creating this perception because of the fact that it was premium knives being imported from very old and very well known knife-making cities. Everything that says "Japanese steel" though is a marketing ploy, usually a Chinese one aimed at western markets. Steel from Japan doesn't differ in quality from Western quality at all today. What you're instead going to get is cheap 8Cr13MoV or 420J2 crap. You'd be better off sharpening a steel ruler than most of these.
Any time you see a modern knife ask not where it was made, unless the purpose is to support a domestic business, but to name the specific industrial steel identification it was made with. When you see a knife from 1960 and earlier then maybe talk about where it was made and investigate the culture and reputation of that location at the time.
Samurai quality would be considered atrocious and massively underwhelming by today's standards. Our understanding of metal is incredibly more advanced to the steel of the Sengoku period and the techniques of folding used in the Tachi and Katana were done to compensate for poor quality steel as Japan lacked the ability to heat iron to where it melted and impurities could be removed, the folding technique was done to minimize and even out impurities.
Hori hori are also terrible for knife purposes. They're an example of someone making a multitool of things that shouldn't be multitools, it's like the shovel-axe-saw thing I've seen before. It's bad. Do not buy them. They have an entirely wrong profile for a knife. It's literally a hand shovel someone put a sharp edge on. It's, again, a marketing gimmick.
Next, edge retention is not the end all be all of a knife and isn't exactly accurate. What Sophist is referring to is hardness, but that's just one quality that makes good knife steel. A good steel for a knife has 4 factors: hardness, toughness, corrosion resistance, ease of sharpening. Hardness and toughness are very different things, hardness is how hard of a steel it is, how long it will retain an edge before dulling, dulling is when an edge rounds out. To be clear and to wipe away a misconception, you can make ANY material sharp, the quality of steel does not change how sharp you can make something, you can make wood or paper sharp, glass I'm sure you've noticed can be made quite sharp. The problem with hardness is that it can really damage the toughness of a blade, the ability to prevent chipping and snapping, because it can become brittle if too tough without leaving some spring to the steel. It needs to be able to return to form and take some bending exertion. Corrosion resistance is obvious, it's how resistant the steel is to rust. The last, ease of sharpening, is also somewhat counter to hardness as a harder steel is usually more difficult to get sharp. You have to keep these in mind when making a blade.
I don't really blame Sophist for this misconception, but it needs to be corrected to prevent people falling to scams.
*Addendum: Also never use a pull-through sharpener. Pull-through sharpeners damage the edge and leave it a jagged mess so the knife tears instead of cuts now.
@@pubcle🤓
7:07 They called it.
damn that editor sure is cool and awesome. I wonder who could've edited this video
I am really enjoying the series fellas! I hope the more you learn the more you enjoy golf games! Theyre one of my favorite chill games to relax to
There’s a subtle One Piece motif to this video. Epic
10:57 If Brent sees this comment, I just want to let him know that this quote is as immortal as "do it again."
Good round! This game has one of the steepest learning curves of any Mario game. The Mario Golf games after this add many more quality of life enhancements to be a little more forgiving.
Someone please tell Vern to stop putting from the rough! 😅
It was great that kind of started to get putting right as the rain started so it add some changes to how to guess the power since rain slows the ball faster
With all the one piece usage by the editor i thought when Nick said he was in Shambles I imagined a piplup being flung around in Law's Room.
Editing super funny and smooth this time around 👌
thank you thank you
@@s.c.m.r. no problem, keep it up! :D
You boys are hilarious, as always! I look forward to every video!
Thank you Sophist for your pills of knowledge. I shall get a high grade in the kitchen items test for tomorrow. God bless you man
cant wait for them to play the gamecube version, the perfect shots are so cool
adore the editors work on this one
Fun fact guys. Rains affects drag on putts. Gotta add like 10% for rainy putts
2:47 Ayo was that the Vernation Redemption?!
Now we need Vern to write the descriptions
The descriptions keep getting better and better. Also thank you editor :)
I love the one piece editing so much
Just wanna say whoever is their editor is amazing. Pumping out videos on a decent upload schedule with consistently great edits? My man 👍👍
7:08 thanks for the trust given😒
The Ultra Instinct theme is the official theme when they play Mario Golf.
Perfect.
I needed the knife lore.
7:15 omg their reaction to the monkey made me laugh so hard XD
i love the shit post images this shit kinda funny. very good job mr.editor.
thank you thank you
They’ll never let go Vernias’ fumble, will they? 😁
The abrupt Ultra Instinct sfx got me everytime 😂 Full points
much appreciation to the editor. ❤
You guys aren't taking into account that it's raining, which makes the greens slower.
Yes, knives are importaint to know your information on. Thanks Eevee for teaching us the ways of the knive
THE PEOPLE DEMAND MORE GOLF! I desire the four of you to play more, and to perhaps suffer through unlocking characters and stages.
*Wario; bane of my progress*
Sophist is a total mood.
Like the editor. Always happy to see a fellow One Piece fan.^^
Gotta love all the One Piece memes/reaction images in the video
I've learnt so much about knives, thanks Sophist
YOU PICK... Plum? I guess?
I'm just memeing, LOL
Thanks for the info on the knives sophist!
It is SOOO weird casually watching this video before you see an edit that you destictively remember seeing in a Twitter post recently. Then you find it, the editor replying to a post from PC's massive editor's revisions told by Vernias, them showing a picture of a revision of this exact video from Nick. The part I remembered was this edit with "*(unless you're eevee)" at 8:23. The connections are almost too uncanny.
14:45 Brent being the first one to figure out how to adjust power lol. I played that shit as a kid I been yelling at them all and now I applaud breent
Tip: before you hit the ball, you can align what trajectory the ball can go with the left stick
Personally you should do it in a situation where the ball is infront of like a tree or something, and you should time it at the same time you hit A at the red line
It can be very useful in situations like what happened to Eevee at Hole 18 that he had to go back
How very RNG of you, Sophist, to put the entire history of the kitchen knife in the description.
7:02 yeah Sophist shouldn't have said that because everyone clearly knows that the viewers are gonna do the exact opposite of what Sophist said
I learned something today Sophist. Maybe you can teach us more about kitchen utensils like spoons or forks.
YEEEAAAAAH BABYYY MORE N64 PARTY CRASHERS
Not that this'll matter anymore, but Mario Golf has an unlock everything code
The thumbnail tells me that we’re going in for a wild ride
You guys make golf fun to watch. I hope this series continues.
The most replayed part ended up being Eevee asking the editor to insert the green screen plane crash every time the game lagged. All four of them failed to predict it.
Came for the Party Crashers, stayed for the Plum Gaming
You can taunt in game by moving the joysticks when it’s not your turn
Usually if you cant exit a level or whatever in a game the option is either greyed out or not there. But the way it said “you cant leave on first stroke” sounds so sarcastic and rude it’s honestly funny XD
17:50 Don't worry editor. The Algorithm doesn't recognize other languages swear words.
Any time sophist is just in the video I bet there is just chaos 🤭
Here are some tips for you guys when ever you play this again.
Use Power shot when using a driver especially on the first shot.
Normal shot is to be used for the 9, 8, and 5 Irons. Normal shot is also to be used with the Wedge when you're in a bunker.
Your putting is fine but learn the slopes cause they can help you if you know when to overshoot the hole to put the slope to your advantage.
Just for future reference if you guys want to play as Maple, DK, Bowser, and Metal Mario, there's a cheat code you can input on the title screen to unlock them.
You guys got the putting right but the rain stops your ball faster so keep that in mind!
Also the two number under the ball show the percentage of power you get from your hit
I think the party crashers should play Dead by Daylight, Brent has already so he can teach them the ropes.
also the vern nation temptation 11:22