Fretboard Slot Duplicating Jig
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- A shop made jig for cutting fret slots accurately in fingerboard blanks. The jig is easy to make, inexpensive, and using a locator pin (actually more like a slot) it will duplicate any fret board that is run through it. I great item to have around the shop, and it takes all the time consuming layout and measuring out of cutting the fret slots. Works for every scale length.
how do you know how deep to go? Shouldn't you have a stop of some kind to control the depth?
@tbundicknc I'm glad you liked it. If you spend the 3-5 days it takes waiting for a mail order jig to arrive working in the shop, you will have made your own jig for next to no cost and usually just as good. I don't understand why folks buy jigs when you obviously have the ability to make them yourself...after all if you can make a guitar then you can definitely make a jig or two.
Love the video and the jig! question for you....how do you know how far down you're sawing and to keep the depth even and equal for all fret slots? thanks
@dersvidz I sent you an email detailing how you can make a depth stop that you can attach to your fret saw that adjusts. That way no matter how thick the boards are, you can easily dial in the right depth. Good luck, and check your email.
Just give you my congratulations, great idea, for me "newbie" I'll do one of this :-)
Just smart work, Brian. Thanks for the inspiration. The tiny locator pins madero nervous too. Great idea.
Thanks for sharing your excellent idea for the jig. Excellent work!
Pure genius - thanks for this. I hated the idea of dropping $170 on a commercial one...
I'm so sorry that I didn't see this earlier, but the bottom of the trough only needs to be as wide as the widest fretboard blank you plan on slotting. In which case three inches is usually enough for most acoustic guitars and basses. A six string electric bass may need a wider trough, but for acoustic work, 3" will be fine. I hope this gets to you in time to be helpful, and best of luck.
Thanks for that I shall definitely make one Chris. England
@allexcosta I'm sorry you are having trouble reading the website. If you would email me about any of the articles that you want to read but are having trouble with, I will gladly send you a PDF version that would be far easier to read. Just let me know. Thank you again.
The fretboard is flat at the point where you run it through the fret slotting jig, so all I do is make sure I saw about half way through the blank. The reason for that is you will be putting a radius on the fretboard after you saw the slots, so most of the work you did in making the slots will be erased by the sanding block. The frets are re-sawn to full depth after the radius is done using a fret saw and stop block that's attached to the saw blade. Any questions just email me and I'll help.
@allexcosta I'm sorry you are having trouble reading the website. If you would email me about any of the articles that you want to read but are having trouble with, I will gladly send you a PDF version that would be far easier to read. Just let me know. Thank you again.
I count 20 strokes each time. I've sawed so many that it's a feel thing for me. However, if you watch what you are doing it's not hard to get it right. Besides, you only need to saw about half way through or less, then you will radius the board and have to re-saw the slots by hand anyway, so a little extra depth or a little too shallow wont be a problem in the end. If you get stuck email me and I'll help you. sixgunguitars@gmail.com
@allexcosta I haven't had any other feedback about the readability, but I'll take a look at maybe lightening the background a bit so that there is more contrast. Or maybe a larger font. Do you think that would make it easier to work with? I'm not a web builder, I just did my best at the time with what I had, if you have any suggestions that would let me retain that background I like but make it easier to read I would appreciate the help. Thank you again.
The jig essentially makes marks that end up being sanded when the radius is put on the fret board. The ends are completely sanded off, and all that remains is a small slot in the middle of the board. You have to go back again anyway with a fret saw and a depth stop to re-saw the slots anyway, so all I do is make sure I get into the board about 1/8" or less when I'm using the slotting jig, and they always come out just fine. It's easier than it looks, I promise.
On six gun website it says about 3 inches wide ? The one you have here looks more than that.I had cut my stock using the 12 inch x 3 inch measurement on the website and although i have not gone any farther I am wondering if 3 inches is wide enough. Thanks Brian
hi,
Great idea ! i'm definitely going to make one of these, only one thing missing is a depth stop guide! any ideas for this, something i'm going to have to have on mine!
but still brilliant idea, well done mate!
Brian, simple, cheap, inspired! Thanks. If you get a chance, could you email me the depth stop as well? I've tried a couple different things with weird clamps but nothing is working out to well.
Thanks in advance.
Excellent Jig idea, going to make one at the weekend and save myself so much time. Could you possible send me details of your depth stop solution. Many many thanks.
The trough in the middle needs to be 3" wide to handle the width of acoustic guitar fretboard blanks.
Very good. Too bad your site is impossible to read with the dark background and black font.
@sixgunguitars: Thanks for listening. Lightening the background and a larger, bolder font should do it. Keep up the great work.
@sixgunguitars: Thanks!! I'll do that... You don't plan to make the site more readable, do you?
I was ready to invest about $200 for a fancy fret saw From LMI or Stew Mac when I saw this. Instead I made one of these in a few hours from scrap Ash. I used a Hacksaw Blade in the base and ground it to an easily removable shape so I can use the box without it if I want. I ordered several pre-slotted boards from LMI for $12-15 each, one of them custom slotted. The first test board came out great taking about 10 minutes to cut a dozen perfect slots to full depth in a Ukulele board. I made some stackable shims for the top of the mitre bax so I can control saw depth of cut.
Way too cool and easy. All you youtubers are sure saving me a lot of thinking. Thank you...
very impressive jig. Whats your solution for the depth stop?
thank you very much for this video! it's a great idea!
Thanks a lot :)
like!