I really like Kodak Tri-X 400, I took some pictures in the highlands in Scotland with an Olympus OM-10 and they turned out very well, the grain was very nice and there was a lot of detail in it. combined with the very good auto exposure of the OM-10 it makes for some very good results.
Thanks Noah! Funny you should ask about comparing today's TriX to TriX of previous decades. I shot TriX in high school for the yearbook in 1980/81 (with my 1965 Nikon F, some cheap lenses and a handheld light meter) -- and developed it. Usually pushing it to 800 or 1600 ASA (OK, ISO!) for indoor shots with the ambient light. It worked -- though the results were often grainy and felt a little "mushy" -- but I got a half-dozen "school life" photos into the yearbook! I haven't been too excited to try it out now that I am back into shooting film again -- I have tried some of the Ilford B&W films (they all have unique characteristics, and I like each), and the Kodak Tmax emulsions. I do like Tmax -- the grain is nice and tight. And I have shot some Rollei emulsions in 120 (old box cameras and simple bellows cameras), and those come out looking like vintage photos -- soft and not super-contrasty. But you have piqued my interest and I will make it a point to shoot some 35mm TriX for sure, and maybe some 120 to test my "pseudo" TLR cameras....
Hey Noah -- digging through the fridge I found five rolls of 36-exp TriX that expired 06/2016. I must have gotten these with one of my orders of vintage (OK, old!) cameras/equipment from shopgoodwill.com a few months ago -- and popped them in the fridge when I unpacked the stuff. Of course I am sure that they were not properly stored before that. What would you recommend I do to adjust exposure when shooting them? And when I send them to the lab (The Darkroom) for processing? Thanks!!!
shot alot of tri-x in the late 80's on 120 and 4x5 and loved it, recently bought some 120 and do like it but it has deff changed over the years or perhaps my age is making me think this ? will have to get some of my old negatives out and have a close look to compare them.
35mm TRI-X 400 makes the perfect general street and street portrait film. The grain and contrast are just right. Michael Kenna actually uses TRI-X in 120 for this landscape work as well
I think a future video should have a few technical tests included. I'd like to see real world examples of how far you can push the highlights. Black & white IMO produces a much deeper image than colour does. So even b&w camera JPEGs are preferable to me than colour photos are. In general, of course.
Tri-X Pan, a film that I used at rated speed, pulled to E.I. 200, and pushed in the latest "speed gaining" film developers of the 1960's. In the days of weak, slow recycling electronic flash units, Tri-X could save the day at rated speed. For "available darkness" fans like myself, using Acufine Inc. developers from Acufine to 2-bath Diafine, I learned about the difference between real shadow detail at E.I. 800-1600 and the "soot and whitewash" of exotic developers such as Ethol Blue. With "speed lenses" topping out at f/1.4 or f/1.8, getting a usable image "by the light of a non-Mercury vapor streetlight" was a challenge. Kodak 2475, an Estar base "surveillence film" started out at E.I. 800 and topped out at E.I. 2400, along with "beach sand grain" and strips of developed film that curled into tightly wound tubes. Real speed (and much finer grain) arrived with the T-Max films and developer, but Tri-X Pan was the stygian light level benchmark. All of this "night tripper" action led to a 1 degree spotmeter, sturdier tripods, and "a wish for faster OEM lenses." I never could afford the latter, so it was time to "return to the light" and use slower film under sunny skies.
So I want to learn to light a scene for Super 16mm motion pictures. Since you don’t have anyway to playback your footage on set. Would buying a 35mm still film camera and playing around with it teach me how to light when switching over to motion picture lighting?
Hey Noah, any tips you can give for shooting film during the night? I see you reside in Toronto so ideally the location would be at Aurora Winter Festival. Thanks so much! (Yes i will be shooting with tri-x)
A Point and shoot will try and expose everything automatically for you so it will mostly just be using the built in flash on the camera! Sometimes they're also capable of longer exposures with the flash turned off and you can set it down on something and take the picture so it doesn't turn out blurry from being held while the shutter is open.
Agreed, I've pretty much switched entirely to HP5 and Kentmere now that I have a scanner. The lower contrast also helps with scanning, if I want more contrast I can add it back digitally.
For me, both Tri-X and TMax just give average results. I like high contrast images, so right now Bergger is my favorite b&w film. I used Tri-X extensively during college in the early 1980s. I remember when TMax came out. I tried it and didn't think it offered any improvements over Tri-X. I eventually gravitated to Kodak HIE b&w infrared film. For nearly 20 years HIE was my go to b&w film despite the extra care needed in handling and developing.
I have a stock of 1984 expired TriX Pan 120 and it's been fantastic, punchy, and very consistent. One of my all time favorite BnW films. New and old
I really like Kodak Tri-X 400, I took some pictures in the highlands in Scotland with an Olympus OM-10 and they turned out very well, the grain was very nice and there was a lot of detail in it. combined with the very good auto exposure of the OM-10 it makes for some very good results.
Thanks Noah! Funny you should ask about comparing today's TriX to TriX of previous decades. I shot TriX in high school for the yearbook in 1980/81 (with my 1965 Nikon F, some cheap lenses and a handheld light meter) -- and developed it. Usually pushing it to 800 or 1600 ASA (OK, ISO!) for indoor shots with the ambient light. It worked -- though the results were often grainy and felt a little "mushy" -- but I got a half-dozen "school life" photos into the yearbook! I haven't been too excited to try it out now that I am back into shooting film again -- I have tried some of the Ilford B&W films (they all have unique characteristics, and I like each), and the Kodak Tmax emulsions. I do like Tmax -- the grain is nice and tight. And I have shot some Rollei emulsions in 120 (old box cameras and simple bellows cameras), and those come out looking like vintage photos -- soft and not super-contrasty. But you have piqued my interest and I will make it a point to shoot some 35mm TriX for sure, and maybe some 120 to test my "pseudo" TLR cameras....
Hey Noah -- digging through the fridge I found five rolls of 36-exp TriX that expired 06/2016. I must have gotten these with one of my orders of vintage (OK, old!) cameras/equipment from shopgoodwill.com a few months ago -- and popped them in the fridge when I unpacked the stuff. Of course I am sure that they were not properly stored before that. What would you recommend I do to adjust exposure when shooting them? And when I send them to the lab (The Darkroom) for processing? Thanks!!!
shot alot of tri-x in the late 80's on 120 and 4x5 and loved it, recently bought some 120 and do like it but it has deff changed over the years or perhaps my age is making me think this ? will have to get some of my old negatives out and have a close look to compare them.
Great stuff Noah. I always have a couple of boxes in the fridge to use without thinking about it.
Tri-X forever!! The ultimate B&W!
We used to use this film in high school photo club, circa 2009. Mainly because it was the one film stock they trusted us kids to develop
I love this film but I always shoot it with a red filter to darken the sky and make the clouds pop out.
35mm TRI-X 400 makes the perfect general street and street portrait film. The grain and contrast are just right. Michael Kenna actually uses TRI-X in 120 for this landscape work as well
TRI X was my go-to B&W film. I now have a 35mm camera again and 5 rolls of TRI X...
The contrast helps give definition when shooting double exposures
I think a future video should have a few technical tests included. I'd like to see real world examples of how far you can push the highlights.
Black & white IMO produces a much deeper image than colour does. So even b&w camera JPEGs are preferable to me than colour photos are. In general, of course.
great video. I only shoot it when I can't get/ run out of HP5. But I am always really impressed with it. It is sweet. Keep up the great work
Thanks Noah
Tri-X Pan, a film that I used at rated speed, pulled to E.I. 200, and pushed in the latest "speed gaining" film developers of the 1960's. In the days of weak, slow recycling electronic flash units, Tri-X could save the day at rated speed. For "available darkness" fans like myself, using Acufine Inc. developers from Acufine to 2-bath Diafine, I learned about the difference between real shadow detail at E.I. 800-1600 and the "soot and whitewash" of exotic developers such as Ethol Blue. With "speed lenses" topping out at f/1.4 or f/1.8, getting a usable image "by the light of a non-Mercury vapor streetlight" was a challenge. Kodak 2475, an Estar base "surveillence film" started out at E.I. 800 and topped out at E.I. 2400, along with "beach sand grain" and strips of developed film that curled into tightly wound tubes. Real speed (and much finer grain) arrived with the T-Max films and developer, but Tri-X Pan was the stygian light level benchmark. All of this "night tripper" action led to a 1 degree spotmeter, sturdier tripods, and "a wish for faster OEM lenses." I never could afford the latter, so it was time to "return to the light" and use slower film under sunny skies.
One cool thing about TRI-X 400. You can shoot it a 200iso 400iso and 800iso in camera metering develop normal and get great results with all.
So I want to learn to light a scene for Super 16mm motion pictures. Since you don’t have anyway to playback your footage on set. Would buying a 35mm still film camera and playing around with it teach me how to light when switching over to motion picture lighting?
Hey Noah, any tips you can give for shooting film during the night? I see you reside in Toronto so ideally the location would be at Aurora Winter Festival. Thanks so much! (Yes i will be shooting with tri-x)
I'm shooting ona Pentax Point and Shoot too!
A Point and shoot will try and expose everything automatically for you so it will mostly just be using the built in flash on the camera! Sometimes they're also capable of longer exposures with the flash turned off and you can set it down on something and take the picture so it doesn't turn out blurry from being held while the shutter is open.
Great stuff
When are you gonna do packfilm?
It’s definitely my favorite film, just wish it was cheaper.
I like it, but it wants to curl when I scan it, so I usually use the cheaper Kentmere 400.
Agreed, I've pretty much switched entirely to HP5 and Kentmere now that I have a scanner. The lower contrast also helps with scanning, if I want more contrast I can add it back digitally.
I think tri-x has probably had the least modifications done to it over the years but I think all films got reformulated after the silver crisis
Randall Stewart gee that’s depressing I didn’t know about that
@@randallstewart175 Lol, for all intents and purposes, it's still the same. HP5 has also been reformulated, why shoot black and white at all then?
hey do u know if it works with the zeiss ikon nettar 517/2?
Does anyone know how many shots come in these? Just starting out and curious
Hey! I’m Toronto based! Do you know who devs 16mm tri X ?
For me, both Tri-X and TMax just give average results. I like high contrast images, so right now Bergger is my favorite b&w film.
I used Tri-X extensively during college in the early 1980s. I remember when TMax came out. I tried it and didn't think it offered any improvements over Tri-X.
I eventually gravitated to Kodak HIE b&w infrared film. For nearly 20 years HIE was my go to b&w film despite the extra care needed in handling and developing.
Ilford Pan F review, please.
What's the oldest b&w filmstock in production today and can you do video about it?
Probably HP5. The original came out in 1934 I believe.
Is that an Olympus μ-II? I have one of those! 😁
First!
This is still a thing right?
Great videos btw
Or ASA for us old Luddites.
Do a roll review of Shanghai GP3 100 black and white film.
Love your videos
A new emulsion with an old name.