I've done this exact job today (which I was initially dreading, kind of out of my comfort zone) but your vid made it look straightforward. I picked up some extra tools and bolts from your affiliate links and I ended up really enjoying seeing my mini-project come to life. The post is now nice and snug and I just wanted to say a BIG thank you :)
Brilliant to hear, I am happy that the video helped you overcome your fear of doing this yourself. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for using the affiliate links, much appreciated. All the best ! 👍😎
Thanks for the video. New to the channel and have just watched a couple of videos so far. Very in formative and well put together - I particularly love the way you mute the tool noise so that it almost does not appear. Its so soothing. Its not like people don't know how power tools sound, but you are the first person Ive come across that does this. Cheers.
Thanks again Ian, yes, there is nothing worse than chilling out, watching a video when all of a sudden, you get the scare of your life with a power tool going off at full volume. I usually lower the volume by 90% on those parts - still learning all this youtube stuff, so hopefully I will improve as time goes on. Thanks for the comment, much appreciated ! 👍😍
Awesome, need to do this soon. Thought I’d need some sort of resin. Was dreading attempting this but thanks to your vid I’m feeling a little more confident 👍
Glad it was helpful Chris, I made another video on how to fit a 4x4 post to a wall as well, if that is something you would be interested in - you can see it here th-cam.com/video/5lf6d8dnLXA/w-d-xo.html
Hi and thanks very much for the comment. Yes, it is a common problem and there is not a lot of information out there on how to go about doing this job. I am glad the video helped and good luck with the repair ! Thanks again for the comment, much appreciated ! 👍😀 PLEASE , LIKE, SHARE and SUBSCRIBE 👍😊
Thanks for this! Complete newbie here, penny pinching and so hoping to put a gate in myself! Will have to do exactly what you've done as the gate is going between a garage wall and the house.
Great job, simply and clearly explained. I’ve got this exact job to do this weekend for double gates, thank you for taking the time to make this video. 👏👏👍
Stumbled across your video because the house builders have done a shoddy job putting our gate post in. They drilled into mortar using torx head fixings, resulting in pulling away. I'm liking the idea of countersinking the head and using the hex heads. I feel more at ease tightening with a ratchet than with a screwdriver or drill.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, when fitting a gate post or anything for that matter, always best to drill in to the actual brick or block, never drill in to the actual mortar of the pointing. Also, best to use a ratchet for tightening the bolts as you have more control that way. If you use an impact driver, there is always the chance that the bolts strip the created thread in the concrete and they will just end up spinning and not getting a grip. The bolts only need to be nipped up, not crazy tight.
@@Bacrenfencing Much like you don't use a pillar drill to cut in a new thread on a metal flange or boss. An 8mm SDS would do the job? Post is nominally 50mm thick, countersunk 10mm, I'd be fine drilling 65mm into the brick and then slowly ratcheting in? I saw how ridiculous and shabby the erection job was with the screws going in off 90°. It wasn't even centrally spaced down the length of the post! Cheers for your reply though!
@@Titot182 Thanks for the comment, I am not the sort of person to worry about masonry screws going in at a perfect 90 degree angle. This is fitting a piece of wood to a wall, not precision engineering. The holes were spaced for my specific application (matched the fence rails) and were not meant to be evenly spaced, I mentioned it in the video as usually you would space them evenly.......but every application will be different. Thanks for the comment :0)
Fantastic video! I’m having to buy a wider gate (1.2m by 1.8m) for back garden to allow easier access for my Iron 883. Been trying to figure out all day how go about trimming down the concrete block wall and this was the last thing to figure out. Brilliant work, I’ll get cracking on this Sunday 👍🏻 gonna check out rest of your vids now
@@Bacrenfencing thanks buddy, got another question, but it’s shed wooden base related, it was prebuilt before I moved in (8 x 6), I’m wanting to strengthen the floor but I need to know where the joist/beams are so I have a screw anchor point? Relative newbie at all this and don’t have X-ray vision of course so at a loss (in my tiny brain) how I can safely get to see the base frame joists without making my shed fall down 🤣 thanks in advance
Can I give you some advice, whatever you do never ever sell your 883 I miss mine so much like I sold a part of me. Look after that iron horse. Ride hard roll free...
Thank you so much for this video. I was looking to do the same but wasnt sure. Your video is so simple and clear to understand. BTW you sound like my colleagues from work from the NE Scotland. Keep up the good work pal.
Apart from being a great instruction video, I wanted to see how well these threaded anchor bolts work in cement block walls. You make it clear they work well and look much easier to use than sleeve or wedge bolts. Thanks.
Great video. I would have liked to see some form of caulking around the holes to avoid water penetrating through the holes and get tin behind the wall where it can lead to water damage.
Brilliant video as usual, very well explained. You need to look after your tools a bit better, that spade bit and spirit level look like you’ve just dug them out the ground😂.
I usually ensure that they are at least 50mm into the wall, but it obviously depends on the thickness of the wall. 50mm is a good starting point. Thanks for the comment
Halo Sir, I am from Indonesia.. thank you for your tutorial...it helped me so much.. 😊😊🙏🙏.. I will applying to my brick wall fence... Sorry for my bad english.. Thank you very much...😊😊🙏🙏.. Great Success for you..😊😊👍👍
thanks for the video, i have to install two gallow brackets for a porch , i would be filling the holes on top of the bolts afterwards and painting them , i think these concrete bolts are stronger than a frame fixing ?
@@soldier-Dave Hard to say without actually seeing the porch, but if it is in to yorkshire stone, then probable best with frame fixings such as these amzn.to/2NVW6LG
Great vid. Can you clarify what type of drill bit you were describing at 8:21 in the video; the ones you said actually 'pull themselves into the concrete'?
Thanks for posting, really helpful. I'm going to be following this video when I do my gate and fence. What size posts did you use, are they 4 x 3 inch?
Very well executed job, very helpful. What are your thoughts about cutting the bottom of the post to clear the ground and avoiding soaking up moisture?
Thanks, Yes you are best to leave around a 50mm gap between the bottom of the post and the ground. If you have the cut end down, make sure and treat the end grain with plenty of clear wood preserver or paint. Hope this helps. Thanks
Great video mate, I have been using those fixings for a while now and always use an impact driver to tighten them up. I think your method is far better with the ratchet as more times than not I will over tighten and put the timber under strain. Cheers for the heads up.
Thanks Davie, I always use a ratchet when tightening these now because they are very easy to over tighten and strip out the concrete, especially on modern house walls. You know what it's like. strip the concrete out (bolts keep spinning) and end up having to put in 10mm diameter fixings as opposed to original 8mm............I learned from bitter experience 😫😥 Yes, they can take a hell of a grip on some substrates and it is easy to strain the timber as you say ! Thanks for the comment 👍✊😀
Personally no I don't worry about that. If it really bothers you, then you could squirt a load of clear silicon in the hole before using the bolts, but I don't think you need to worry about that.
Hi there, nice video, and well explained. I'm looking to fix a decking baton along the rear of my house, would you recommend these screws, or something a bit sturdier like Rawlbolts as at times it may be taking the weight of a few people etc. Many thanks :)
I can tell your very knowledgeable, I just prefer “plum” for vertical and “level” for horizontal, ayyye 🏴 cheers (I can still hear the old joiner telling me 😂)
Thank you so much for this video I love nothing more than a straight direct to the point video rather than a bunch of jibber jabber wasting time yours was very precise to the point very simple to understand thank you so much God bless you and keep up the good work!
This can sometimes happen if the blocks are quite soft etc. If this happens, I usually go up a size. In other words, if you have drilled holes for M8 bolts, then buy a few M10 bolts and use these in the same holes - that will usually work. Hope this helps
@@Bacrenfencing I want to avoid that because my side yard is all concrete. If I want to put a post down, which I have done before, I would have to cut the concrete and then dig.
Thanks for watching and if you enjoyed the content, please LIKE, SHARE and consider SUBSCRIBING to my channel by clicking the link th-cam.com/channels/6IWF5LBPAqCwmjXcAGwWJw.html This would mean a lot to me and be greatly appreciated 😊
Thanks. Yes, the wood is all pressure treated, so it is only when you cut it or drill it that it exposes BARE wood. When wood is pressure treated, the treatment only penetrates the wood about 5mm, so when you cut or drill the wood, you expose wood that has not been treated - hence the reason you need to treat it. I hope that this clarifies for you ? Thanks
I get them direct from my local saw mill. If you can't get them then you can use C16 or C24 planed timber (get it from B&Q etc) as this will do the same job. C16 and C24 timber are also pressure treated.
Hi, They are HELLER 4 CUTTER SDS drill bits, you can get them on ebay via this link www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PREMIUM-QUALITY-CROSS-HEAD-SDS-PLUS-DRILL-BITS-4-Cutters-Concrete-Rebar-Masonry/202323611334?hash=item2f1b6d4ec6:g:JDcAAOSwoNVa6HC4
Hi, Yes the anchor helps in this situation but you can use frame fixings or concrete screws which do the same job. I just find these Multi fix screws to be the best and strongest for this particular application. Thanks for the comment.
@@Bacrenfencing Thank you for the reply! I also noticed that you were using a socket wrench rather than an impact driver. coz impact driver too strong?
@@bruceli161 Yes, I don't use an impact driver when using these concrete screws as it is easy to strip out the holes if not careful. Best to use a ratchet or spanner as you can get a better feel and not over tighten. Hope this helps
Probably a silly question but if you remove the post later and untighten the bolts, can you easily rescrew it back onto the wall again with the same tightness as it was the first time? I’ve not used these types of bolts before with no raw plugs and can’t get my head around it. Thanks
Could you use the same method for fixing a post to a wall you are adding a fence on top of. I have a c.2-3ft brick wall surrounding my garden so wanting to add a 3ft panel to the top. Could I attach the bottom half of a 6ft post to the wall in the same way, with the panels then just attached to the top half of the post?
Yes, you can do that, if you look at my video here, that is what I done with this installation th-cam.com/video/wdP8Cz2HaMA/w-d-xo.html The only thing to bear in mind is if it is an exposed area, you would be best to connect all the posts with a backing rail to help tie it all together. Hope this helps ?
@@Bacrenfencing I'd just been watching that 😀. Rather than cutting lengths, no problem just fitting standard width panels to the posts, no? These are really helpful, thankyou. Makes it feel like if you get the right gear, you're halfway there
@@grahampriestley3105 No problem, yes, if you have the right tools and materials for the job, it is definitely easier ! Good luck with the installation and thanks for the comment !
Hi there, great video, thanks for posting. Apologies if this question has already been asked but I scrolled through about 30 or so comments and couldn’t see it. I noticed the bottom of your wall has a slight lip, assuming for water run-off, would this not affect the level of the post going towards your fencing? If this was the case would it be a simple fix of making the post shorter at the bottom so as the lip would not affect levels?
If there is a large lip and I am hanging a gate for instance, I will always use a 4x4 post as opposed to a 4x2 timber. That way you can notch the posts to to fit over the lip on the wall - this enables you to plumb the post. In the case of running a fence off of it, it does not really need to be 100% plumb to the wall as it is just being used to attach fence rails, so yes you can make it shorter. I will make a video explaining this as I get asked this a lot. Thanks for the comment
Really useful, thank you. I have 100x100 posts which I will hang a heavy side gate to. What length bolt/screw would you use? Is there a set length that it should go into the brick?
Thanks Jonathan, If using a 4 x 4 post, I would use either 8 x 130mm multi fix bolts or even go up a size to 10 x 130mm. Also, drill a deeper 32mm recess in the post which will mean less material to go through - in other words, drill a 25-30mm recess and use 130mm long bolts, that should be fine. I hope this makes sense. Thanks 👍
Hi, Yes it is an 8mm bolt which is the size of the actual bolt thread, but the head of the bolt is 15mm, so you will need a 15mm socket to tighten the bolt. Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi, No the base of the post was not in contact with the ground. It is best to avoid contact with the ground wherever possible as this will help prevent wood rot. Hope this helps ? 👍
Great video 👍 I didn't catch what type of sds bits you use ? Them multi fixings look much better than frame fixings which I've used in the past. Looked like a lovely spot where you were working from what I could see from background scenery 😎
Hi PB, Thanks for the comment. I use HELLER X-FORCE SDS drill bits amzn.to/2X5xz7v Working at my own house, struggling through the wife's "to do list" - thought I may as well film some of the jobs as I go. Yes, we are fortunate to live in a lovely location in the countryside - very idyllic ! 👍😀
@@Bacrenfencing many thanks for the prompt reply - I will definitely get some of those drill bits as I'm always using sds bits with my work. My wife has also handed me a to do list that seems to get longer everyday even though I'm doing the jobs, funny that 🤔 Many thanks again 👍
@@pb9926 Yes the Heller x-force bits are brilliant, worth shopping around for them, get some good deals on Ebay for all the different sizes - highly recommended ! Yes, I can sympathise with your ever growing "List"............
Water / Rain is the enemy of any outdoor structure made of wood, so yes it is always a concern but we do what we can to protect against wood rot. Thanks for the comment.
Great advice, I'm doing this job to fix a gate post. Is it right that you use a 8mm screw and a 8mm drill bit? I'm an total amateur, but would this allow the screw to bite properly if its the same width? Cheers
Thanks, yes, you use an 8mm drill bit with the 8mm multi fix bolt. The bolt diameter (excluding the threads) is 8mm but the threads on the bolt make the bolt about 10mm if you know what I mean, so use an 8mm drill bit.
@@Bacrenfencing Yea I used a 10mm drill bit (same as yours, 200mm length). Took the post away from the wall and and tried putting the bolt into the wall directly, but it just keeps rotating and widening the hole, not biting. Thinking I've messed up and got the wrong bolts...
Hi David, Thanks for the comment. You would probably get away with M6 X 100mm bolts like these amzn.to/39I27Cb but it really depends how much load you will have on the timber (what the timber is going to be used to support). If it is going to be quite a high load, then you can use M8 or M10 bolts (100mm long). Hope this helps 👍😀
Hi there, can you tell me what diameters are for the post you're using. I've got a 75mm x75mm post, if possible could you please tell me all the different size items I'll need for the job. I feel a bit daunted by the job never having done this before.
Hi, The post that I used was a 100mm x 50mm or sometimes referred to as 4" x 2". You can get these from your local timber or builders yard. You can use rough sawn timber or construction timber such as C16 or C24. All the other items used are in the description down below the video. I have posted links to everything, so you can buy direct from Amazon if it is easier for you. Thanks
@@Bacrenfencing Hi sorry again, I want to use my 75x75 post I've already got, so was just querying what size screws, spade bit, wood bit, and washers you would use on that. I did have a look at all the things you mentioned for what you are using in your video. Sorry to be a pest.
@@Bacrenfencing That's brilliant thank you so much. I thought I had to go up to the M10 - 150mm. Video is really good btw. I've watched a couple of them.
In that case, you have a choice depending on the angle. If you have the means, you can basically use thicker posts and cut them on the angle so that the face of the post will be square. In other words rip the post so it matches the angle. Another way is to use packers, so if your post needs to come out at the top for instance, you can pack it out until level. You can use plastic packers or make packers out of wood if you need to. I hope this helps ?
@@SharpeysWorld Yes, packing it out would be easier. I sometimes do that and then scribe a fence slat over the side of the post so that it covers the gap and looks neater. Best of luck with your install, I am sure you will be fine !
Hi, excellent video, did you mention the dimensions of the wooden post used, I'm curious as I'm thinking of using some 75x75 posts to build a screening frame around some unsightly down pipes an drain pipes, cheers, Rob
Hi Robert, I generally use 100mm x 50mm pressure treated timbers for this, but you can also secure 75 x 75 posts using this method, just use longer fixings, something like 8 x 150 bolts would do. Alternatively, you could drill a 30mm recess into the 75mm post and use 8 x 100mm fixings like I showed in the video. Hope this helps 👍
All tools, equipment and consumables that I use can be found in my Amazon shop www.amazon.co.uk/shop/bacrenproperty
Ordered all the ironmongery I needed from here 👍
@@archiebob11 Thanks Mark, much appreciated !
I copied this guy exactly and built my fist fence... building second one now and came back to refresh my mind 💪
Thanks for the comment Thomas, glad you find my videos helpful 😎
@@Bacrenfencing Cheers buddy... Those concrete bolts do the job btw
Used this exact same process step-by-step over the weekend to fix 2 x posts for a side gate on my house. Worked perfectly, thank you!
Glad it helped David and thanks for the comment !
I've done this exact job today (which I was initially dreading, kind of out of my comfort zone) but your vid made it look straightforward. I picked up some extra tools and bolts from your affiliate links and I ended up really enjoying seeing my mini-project come to life. The post is now nice and snug and I just wanted to say a BIG thank you :)
Brilliant to hear, I am happy that the video helped you overcome your fear of doing this yourself. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for using the affiliate links, much appreciated. All the best ! 👍😎
Thanks, man, that gives me all I need to know to instal my gate post.
Glad I could help
Really helpful guide, and I appreciate the extra time you have spent providing links to the products too
Thanks for the comment Oliver, I am happy that this helped you out, thanks again 👍😎
Great video, with clear and precise instruction - this is just what I needed.
Glad it helped Dave, thanks for the comment
Brilliant big man. Doing this over the weekend. Your video confirmed what I need to do. Thankyou sir.
Glad it helped Dave, thanks for the comment !
Thanks for the video. New to the channel and have just watched a couple of videos so far. Very in formative and well put together - I particularly love the way you mute the tool noise so that it almost does not appear. Its so soothing. Its not like people don't know how power tools sound, but you are the first person Ive come across that does this. Cheers.
Thanks again Ian, yes, there is nothing worse than chilling out, watching a video when all of a sudden, you get the scare of your life with a power tool going off at full volume. I usually lower the volume by 90% on those parts - still learning all this youtube stuff, so hopefully I will improve as time goes on. Thanks for the comment, much appreciated ! 👍😍
What?? Did he mute the drill's noise?
All my afternoon wasted trying to find a soundless drill at several hardware stores!!
Crap!!
😬
@@Nayo68 😁
Awesome, need to do this soon. Thought I’d need some sort of resin. Was dreading attempting this but thanks to your vid I’m feeling a little more confident 👍
It is very easy to do if you have the right tools and fixings - thanks for the comment !
Great video, I have an upcoming project to repair hit n miss fence panels between wall pillars so this video is very helpful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful Chris, I made another video on how to fit a 4x4 post to a wall as well, if that is something you would be interested in - you can see it here th-cam.com/video/5lf6d8dnLXA/w-d-xo.html
Great vid mate. Anyone away to give this a bash, just take your time and think it out!
Thanks 👍
Spot on, thank you. Subscribed!
Awesome, thank you!
Excellent instruction. Well filmed too. Thank you. Needed this today. Respect from Glasgow!
Thanks for the kind words - respect from Aberdeenshire ! 👍😃
I just come across your video and it's exactly what I was looking for my fence to my house has rotten,and to replace . great detail and explaining
Hi and thanks very much for the comment. Yes, it is a common problem and there is not a lot of information out there on how to go about doing this job. I am glad the video helped and good luck with the repair ! Thanks again for the comment, much appreciated ! 👍😀 PLEASE , LIKE, SHARE and SUBSCRIBE 👍😊
@@Bacrenfencing me too thanks so much
@@mariza101_ No problem !
Some good tips thanks for sharing good video by the way
No problem 👍
Thanks for this! Complete newbie here, penny pinching and so hoping to put a gate in myself! Will have to do exactly what you've done as the gate is going between a garage wall and the house.
Great, I am sure you will be fine, just follow the video and you will be OK. Thanks for the comment 👍
Great job, simply and clearly explained. I’ve got this exact job to do this weekend for double gates, thank you for taking the time to make this video. 👏👏👍
Glad it was helpful Mark and good luck with your project 👍😎
Great tip 30° angle.doing this project in next couple of weeks
Thanks learnt a lot top video.
Glad it helped Dave and good luck with the project ! 👍😀
Thank you for this video - very useful advice.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent post.
Thanks!
Thanks mate, excellent tutorial. Not easy explaining, and recording with one hand. Great job. 👍
Glad you liked it Faheem and thanks for the comment 👍
Stumbled across your video because the house builders have done a shoddy job putting our gate post in. They drilled into mortar using torx head fixings, resulting in pulling away. I'm liking the idea of countersinking the head and using the hex heads. I feel more at ease tightening with a ratchet than with a screwdriver or drill.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, when fitting a gate post or anything for that matter, always best to drill in to the actual brick or block, never drill in to the actual mortar of the pointing.
Also, best to use a ratchet for tightening the bolts as you have more control that way. If you use an impact driver, there is always the chance that the bolts strip the created thread in the concrete and they will just end up spinning and not getting a grip. The bolts only need to be nipped up, not crazy tight.
@@Bacrenfencing Much like you don't use a pillar drill to cut in a new thread on a metal flange or boss. An 8mm SDS would do the job? Post is nominally 50mm thick, countersunk 10mm, I'd be fine drilling 65mm into the brick and then slowly ratcheting in?
I saw how ridiculous and shabby the erection job was with the screws going in off 90°. It wasn't even centrally spaced down the length of the post!
Cheers for your reply though!
@@Titot182 Thanks for the comment, I am not the sort of person to worry about masonry screws going in at a perfect 90 degree angle. This is fitting a piece of wood to a wall, not precision engineering. The holes were spaced for my specific application (matched the fence rails) and were not meant to be evenly spaced, I mentioned it in the video as usually you would space them evenly.......but every application will be different. Thanks for the comment :0)
Great video! 🙂
Thanks! 😊
Need to fix me a garage door frame into brick- great advice here for order of hole drilling and fixing. Many thanks.
Glad to help Chris, thanks for the comment 👍
Superb video. Very clear to understand.
Glad it was helpful! Thankyou 👍😃
Simple, practical, efficient. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Really good video many thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Can you use the fixing bolts on a9inch cavity block and how far into the concrete should you go...thanks
great video, nice clear audio.. well done
Thank you kindly! 👍😀
Great informative video thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic video! I’m having to buy a wider gate (1.2m by 1.8m) for back garden to allow easier access for my Iron 883. Been trying to figure out all day how go about trimming down the concrete block wall and this was the last thing to figure out. Brilliant work, I’ll get cracking on this Sunday 👍🏻 gonna check out rest of your vids now
Thanks Jackson, I am glad the video was of some help to you 👍😀
@@Bacrenfencing thanks buddy, got another question, but it’s shed wooden base related, it was prebuilt before I moved in (8 x 6), I’m wanting to strengthen the floor but I need to know where the joist/beams are so I have a screw anchor point? Relative newbie at all this and don’t have X-ray vision of course so at a loss (in my tiny brain) how I can safely get to see the base frame joists without making my shed fall down 🤣 thanks in advance
Can I give you some advice, whatever you do never ever sell your 883 I miss mine so much like I sold a part of me.
Look after that iron horse.
Ride hard roll free...
Thank you so much for this video. I was looking to do the same but wasnt sure. Your video is so simple and clear to understand. BTW you sound like my colleagues from work from the NE Scotland. Keep up the good work pal.
Glad it was helpful and say hello to my fellow NE Scotlanders 😎💪
I'm building a gate and was very hesitant about drilling in my house. Not anymore. Thanks for your video.
Glad I could help Tim, thanks for the comment 👍😀
Very helpful 👌🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Apart from being a great instruction video, I wanted to see how well these threaded anchor bolts work in cement block walls. You make it clear they work well and look much easier to use than sleeve or wedge bolts. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful Kevin, thanks for the comment 👍
Great video. I would have liked to see some form of caulking around the holes to avoid water penetrating through the holes and get tin behind the wall where it can lead to water damage.
The holes are 100% sealed with the bolt threads, so no need for caulking. Thanks for the comment
Brilliant video as usual, very well explained. You need to look after your tools a bit better, that spade bit and spirit level look like you’ve just dug them out the ground😂.
Thanks Colin, aye some of my tools take a right battering ! 😂😎
Thanks really clear good instructional video, is there any ideal fixed depth for the fixings to penetrate the wall?
I usually ensure that they are at least 50mm into the wall, but it obviously depends on the thickness of the wall. 50mm is a good starting point. Thanks for the comment
great info and video thank you from Canada
Glad it was helpful Alvin and give my regards to Canada, I love that country ! 👍😎
Halo Sir, I am from Indonesia.. thank you for your tutorial...it helped me so much.. 😊😊🙏🙏.. I will applying to my brick wall fence... Sorry for my bad english.. Thank you very much...😊😊🙏🙏.. Great Success for you..😊😊👍👍
Thank you for the comments 👍
thanks for the video, i have to install two gallow brackets for a porch , i would be filling the holes on top of the bolts afterwards and painting them , i think these concrete bolts are stronger than a frame fixing ?
Yes, these masonry bolts are a lot stronger than standard frame fixings. Thanks for the comment
Excellent video.well explained.thank you !
Glad it was helpful !
@@Bacrenfencing please can you tell me what type of screw I should use to fix a small wooden porch to my Yorkshire stone cottage. ?
@@soldier-Dave Hard to say without actually seeing the porch, but if it is in to yorkshire stone, then probable best with frame fixings such as these amzn.to/2NVW6LG
Thanks really nice video giving me confidence to do my fence myself .
Any video to fix poles between two fence panels.
Thanks for the comment and sorry, I don't currently have a video regarding fixing posts between panels.
Great vid. Can you clarify what type of drill bit you were describing at 8:21 in the video; the ones you said actually 'pull themselves into the concrete'?
They are Heller Tri-Jet SDS drill bits, they are available on Ebay and come in many different sizes
Perfect DIY video... thorough and clearly explained. Cheers 👍
Thanks Arthur, I am glad the video was helpful, thanks for the comment 👍😎
Thanks for posting, really helpful. I'm going to be following this video when I do my gate and fence. What size posts did you use, are they 4 x 3 inch?
Thanks, the post on the wall is 4 x 2" and for the fence I always use 4 x 4 " posts. Hope this helps.
Very well executed job, very helpful. What are your thoughts about cutting the bottom of the post to clear the ground and avoiding soaking up moisture?
Thanks, Yes you are best to leave around a 50mm gap between the bottom of the post and the ground. If you have the cut end down, make sure and treat the end grain with plenty of clear wood preserver or paint. Hope this helps. Thanks
Brilliant, helpful video
Glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment
Perfect just what I need, my gate post has come loose, bolts rusted, so just the exact job. Great demo and explanation
Glad it helped Sean, thanks for the comment 👍😀
Brilliant video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it Sean 👍😀
Great video mate, I have been using those fixings for a while now and always use an impact driver to tighten them up. I think your method is far better with the ratchet as more times than not I will over tighten and put the timber under strain. Cheers for the heads up.
Thanks Davie, I always use a ratchet when tightening these now because they are very easy to over tighten and strip out the concrete, especially on modern house walls. You know what it's like. strip the concrete out (bolts keep spinning) and end up having to put in 10mm diameter fixings as opposed to original 8mm............I learned from bitter experience 😫😥
Yes, they can take a hell of a grip on some substrates and it is easy to strain the timber as you say ! Thanks for the comment 👍✊😀
Hey Sir, great video. May I ask if this is a standard 2 by 4?
This is a 100 x 50mm pressure treated piece, but a standard 4 x 2" will do the same job (95 x 45)
That was an informative video. Do you worry about water ingress into the roughcast through the drill holes at all?
Personally no I don't worry about that. If it really bothers you, then you could squirt a load of clear silicon in the hole before using the bolts, but I don't think you need to worry about that.
@@Bacrenfencing thanks for the advice
Hi there, nice video, and well explained. I'm looking to fix a decking baton along the rear of my house, would you recommend these screws, or something a bit sturdier like Rawlbolts as at times it may be taking the weight of a few people etc. Many thanks :)
Thanks, yes, these screws are perfect for that, but get a larger size 10mm or 12mm in diameter. Then you can choose the length you need.
Fabulous video! And thank you for your tutorial, I have finished my fence same way with ankascrew in Aussie.
Glad it was helpful! 👍
Perfectly explained. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! 👍😃
I can tell your very knowledgeable, I just prefer “plum” for vertical and “level” for horizontal, ayyye 🏴 cheers (I can still hear the old joiner telling me 😂)
I hear you, my mistake,,,,,,,,just habit ! 👍😂
@@Bacrenfencing 🤪
Good stuff, buddy! 👍🏼
Glad you liked it Benny ! 👍
Very detailed and informative I appreciate your time. I enjoyed watching your video 😉👍
Thanks Kevin, much appreciated and I am glad you enjoyed the video 👍😀
Thank you so much for this video I love nothing more than a straight direct to the point video rather than a bunch of jibber jabber wasting time yours was very precise to the point very simple to understand thank you so much God bless you and keep up the good work!
Thank you for the kind comment and I am glad you found this useful !
Well done very helpful for me thank you!
Glad it helped Dale, thanks for the comment 👍😀
Clear and concise. Thank you.
Thanks for the comment David, I am glad you found the video useful ! 👍😃
Hello mate, I've had some trouble getting the bolts to take to the hole that's drilled, any tips? Cheers
This can sometimes happen if the blocks are quite soft etc. If this happens, I usually go up a size. In other words, if you have drilled holes for M8 bolts, then buy a few M10 bolts and use these in the same holes - that will usually work. Hope this helps
Do you drill Same size masonry hole as the bolt size ie 8mm bolt use 8mm drill or do you drill smaller?
Yes, for an 8mm Timco multi fix screw, you need to use an 8mm Masonry drill bit. Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi,what size bolts did you use and how far into the brick work does the bolts have to go in.Thanks
The bolts are 8 x 100mm and they go in roughly 50mm. They come in many sizes, I have put links in the description. Thanks
Absolutely marvellous. 👌
Thanks Tony, I am glad you liked the video ! 👍😃
Brilliant 👍
Thanks 👍😍
Would this setup hold a swinging wood gate? I need to anchor a 2x4 to hang a fence gate but I’m worried the stucco won’t hold the 2x4
It depends on the strength of what you are fixing the post to. Are there bricks behind the stucco ?
I believe it’s just concrete. I don’t think there are bricks.
Maybe best to cement the post in the ground if that's possible ?
@@Bacrenfencing I want to avoid that because my side yard is all concrete. If I want to put a post down, which I have done before, I would have to cut the concrete and then dig.
Thanks for watching and if you enjoyed the content, please LIKE, SHARE and consider SUBSCRIBING to my channel by clicking the link th-cam.com/channels/6IWF5LBPAqCwmjXcAGwWJw.html
This would mean a lot to me and be greatly appreciated 😊
Please see my other fencing videos which a grouped together in this playlist th-cam.com/play/PLfsJaPKE98IACFVHeKQpVGSHKBZap4zRU.html
I enjoyed your tutorial, is there a reason why you would just treat the new holes in wood with wood preservative and not the whole piece of wood ?
Thanks. Yes, the wood is all pressure treated, so it is only when you cut it or drill it that it exposes BARE wood. When wood is pressure treated, the treatment only penetrates the wood about 5mm, so when you cut or drill the wood, you expose wood that has not been treated - hence the reason you need to treat it. I hope that this clarifies for you ? Thanks
I have clapboard I need to fasten my post against. Any ideas of what the best way is.
what is clapboard ?
@@Bacrenfencing cedar planks overlapping each other making the surface uneven.
Thanks for the video! I’m wondering how much distance you left between the ground and the bottom of the post?
About 2" or 50mm - Thanks
Great video, thanks.
Any reason not to use these bolts On a rendered external wall to fix a gate? Thanks again 👍🏼
Hi David, No, these bolts would be fine for that purpose.
Thanks for the comment 👍😃
Where was the 4x2 (100x50) post from mate? My local merchant doesn’t do them in treated timber, just saw milled ones
I get them direct from my local saw mill. If you can't get them then you can use C16 or C24 planed timber (get it from B&Q etc) as this will do the same job. C16 and C24 timber are also pressure treated.
@@Bacrenfencing nice one, cheers mate
What were the drill bits you were using? Never seen those before. Thanks for an excellent video.
Hi, They are HELLER 4 CUTTER SDS drill bits, you can get them on ebay via this link www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PREMIUM-QUALITY-CROSS-HEAD-SDS-PLUS-DRILL-BITS-4-Cutters-Concrete-Rebar-Masonry/202323611334?hash=item2f1b6d4ec6:g:JDcAAOSwoNVa6HC4
What about checking level coming off the wall?
If fitting a gate, then yes, but in my case, was running fence rails off it, so no need for the wall plate to be plumb on the face.
hi, Thank for showing that, just wonder if the anchor would help a lot on this situation
Hi, Yes the anchor helps in this situation but you can use frame fixings or concrete screws which do the same job. I just find these Multi fix screws to be the best and strongest for this particular application. Thanks for the comment.
@@Bacrenfencing Thank you for the reply! I also noticed that you were using a socket wrench rather than an impact driver. coz impact driver too strong?
@@bruceli161 Yes, I don't use an impact driver when using these concrete screws as it is easy to strip out the holes if not careful. Best to use a ratchet or spanner as you can get a better feel and not over tighten. Hope this helps
@@Bacrenfencing Thank you so much! what an expert
Just what I needed, thanks Bacren Property!
No problem Simon, I am glad you found the video useful - thanks for the comment 👍😀
Thank so much for this video, amazing
Glad it was helpful! 👍😃
Really nicely explained. Was going to make a video like this but i cant do better than that. Im learning alot. Thanks !
Thanks buddy, I am glad you found it useful 😀👍
Probably a silly question but if you remove the post later and untighten the bolts, can you easily rescrew it back onto the wall again with the same tightness as it was the first time? I’ve not used these types of bolts before with no raw plugs and can’t get my head around it. Thanks
Yes, you can remove these easily and then replace them again as they cut their own thread into the concrete. Thanks for the comment
Great video thanks for posting (no pun intended)
Thanks for the comment Eric - much appreciated ! 👍😀
Could you use the same method for fixing a post to a wall you are adding a fence on top of. I have a c.2-3ft brick wall surrounding my garden so wanting to add a 3ft panel to the top. Could I attach the bottom half of a 6ft post to the wall in the same way, with the panels then just attached to the top half of the post?
Yes, you can do that, if you look at my video here, that is what I done with this installation th-cam.com/video/wdP8Cz2HaMA/w-d-xo.html The only thing to bear in mind is if it is an exposed area, you would be best to connect all the posts with a backing rail to help tie it all together. Hope this helps ?
@@Bacrenfencing I'd just been watching that 😀. Rather than cutting lengths, no problem just fitting standard width panels to the posts, no? These are really helpful, thankyou. Makes it feel like if you get the right gear, you're halfway there
@@grahampriestley3105 No problem, yes, if you have the right tools and materials for the job, it is definitely easier ! Good luck with the installation and thanks for the comment !
So clear, thank you !
Glad it was helpful! 👍😎
Hi there, great video, thanks for posting. Apologies if this question has already been asked but I scrolled through about 30 or so comments and couldn’t see it. I noticed the bottom of your wall has a slight lip, assuming for water run-off, would this not affect the level of the post going towards your fencing? If this was the case would it be a simple fix of making the post shorter at the bottom so as the lip would not affect levels?
If there is a large lip and I am hanging a gate for instance, I will always use a 4x4 post as opposed to a 4x2 timber. That way you can notch the posts to to fit over the lip on the wall - this enables you to plumb the post. In the case of running a fence off of it, it does not really need to be 100% plumb to the wall as it is just being used to attach fence rails, so yes you can make it shorter. I will make a video explaining this as I get asked this a lot. Thanks for the comment
Bacren Property & Fencing that makes sense, thanks for explaining
@@davidllewelyn-evans3229 No problem
How deep do you drill hole in wall to take fixing ? 8mm x 100 mm
Around 60mm assuming the timber you are fixing is around 50mm thick.
Really useful, thank you. I have 100x100 posts which I will hang a heavy side gate to. What length bolt/screw would you use? Is there a set length that it should go into the brick?
Thanks Jonathan, If using a 4 x 4 post, I would use either 8 x 130mm multi fix bolts or even go up a size to 10 x 130mm. Also, drill a deeper 32mm recess in the post which will mean less material to go through - in other words, drill a 25-30mm recess and use 130mm long bolts, that should be fine. I hope this makes sense. Thanks 👍
Really useful information and answered a question I have, so basically you want the fixing to go into the brick about 60mm
Hi, thanks for a great video. I am a bit confused on the socket size you are using on the ratchet, you said it’s 15mm but is the bolt not 8mm? Thanks
Hi, Yes it is an 8mm bolt which is the size of the actual bolt thread, but the head of the bolt is 15mm, so you will need a 15mm socket to tighten the bolt. Thanks for the comment 👍
Was the foot of the post contacting the ground or is the whole weight taken on the fixings? Any reason for not contacting the ground?
Hi, No the base of the post was not in contact with the ground. It is best to avoid contact with the ground wherever possible as this will help prevent wood rot. Hope this helps ? 👍
Great video 👍 I didn't catch what type of sds bits you use ? Them multi fixings look much better than frame fixings which I've used in the past.
Looked like a lovely spot where you were working from what I could see from background scenery 😎
Hi PB, Thanks for the comment. I use HELLER X-FORCE SDS drill bits amzn.to/2X5xz7v
Working at my own house, struggling through the wife's "to do list" - thought I may as well film some of the jobs as I go. Yes, we are fortunate to live in a lovely location in the countryside - very idyllic ! 👍😀
@@Bacrenfencing many thanks for the prompt reply - I will definitely get some of those drill bits as I'm always using sds bits with my work.
My wife has also handed me a to do list that seems to get longer everyday even though I'm doing the jobs, funny that 🤔
Many thanks again 👍
@@pb9926 Yes the Heller x-force bits are brilliant, worth shopping around for them, get some good deals on Ebay for all the different sizes - highly recommended ! Yes, I can sympathise with your ever growing "List"............
Would a 3/8" DRIVE ratchet with a 15mm socket work or would that not allow for enough torque? Thanks.
That would work fine, you don't need much torque, these fixings take a really good hold with minimal torque. Hope this helps
@@Bacrenfencing thanks for your help
is rain damage much of a concern, in Scotland?
Water / Rain is the enemy of any outdoor structure made of wood, so yes it is always a concern but we do what we can to protect against wood rot. Thanks for the comment.
Great advice, I'm doing this job to fix a gate post. Is it right that you use a 8mm screw and a 8mm drill bit? I'm an total amateur, but would this allow the screw to bite properly if its the same width? Cheers
Thanks, yes, you use an 8mm drill bit with the 8mm multi fix bolt. The bolt diameter (excluding the threads) is 8mm but the threads on the bolt make the bolt about 10mm if you know what I mean, so use an 8mm drill bit.
For some reason my forgefix bolt won't go into the wall. It goes in anti clockwise but then it pulls out of the post. Any ideas? Thanks :)
Are you sure you drilled the hole the correct size ?
@@Bacrenfencing Yea I used a 10mm drill bit (same as yours, 200mm length). Took the post away from the wall and and tried putting the bolt into the wall directly, but it just keeps rotating and widening the hole, not biting. Thinking I've messed up and got the wrong bolts...
Thanks Shrek! 👍
No problem 😜
Great video for a beginner like me. I want to attach 2in timber to a 4in thick block wall. What size bolt would you recommend?
Hi David, Thanks for the comment. You would probably get away with M6 X 100mm bolts like these amzn.to/39I27Cb but it really depends how much load you will have on the timber (what the timber is going to be used to support). If it is going to be quite a high load, then you can use M8 or M10 bolts (100mm long). Hope this helps 👍😀
Hi there, can you tell me what diameters are for the post you're using. I've got a 75mm x75mm post, if possible could you please tell me all the different size items I'll need for the job. I feel a bit daunted by the job never having done this before.
Hi, The post that I used was a 100mm x 50mm or sometimes referred to as 4" x 2". You can get these from your local timber or builders yard. You can use rough sawn timber or construction timber such as C16 or C24. All the other items used are in the description down below the video. I have posted links to everything, so you can buy direct from Amazon if it is easier for you. Thanks
@@Bacrenfencing Hi sorry again, I want to use my 75x75 post I've already got, so was just querying what size screws, spade bit, wood bit, and washers you would use on that. I did have a look at all the things you mentioned for what you are using in your video. Sorry to be a pest.
@@davinamcdonald6560 Just use the same size drill bit but use a 8 x 130mm multi fix bolts like these amzn.to/3Db4X06
@@Bacrenfencing That's brilliant thank you so much. I thought I had to go up to the M10 - 150mm. Video is really good btw. I've watched a couple of them.
@@davinamcdonald6560 No probs !
hi, what would you suggest if the two walls im fixing posts to were not square? basically the walls either side start angling outwards
In that case, you have a choice depending on the angle. If you have the means, you can basically use thicker posts and cut them on the angle so that the face of the post will be square. In other words rip the post so it matches the angle. Another way is to use packers, so if your post needs to come out at the top for instance, you can pack it out until level. You can use plastic packers or make packers out of wood if you need to. I hope this helps ?
@@Bacrenfencing thanks for the suggestions. Dont think I'm confident enough to angle the post so packing it sounds easier
@@SharpeysWorld Yes, packing it out would be easier. I sometimes do that and then scribe a fence slat over the side of the post so that it covers the gap and looks neater. Best of luck with your install, I am sure you will be fine !
Hi, excellent video, did you mention the dimensions of the wooden post used, I'm curious as I'm thinking of using some 75x75 posts to build a screening frame around some unsightly down pipes an drain pipes, cheers, Rob
Hi Robert, I generally use 100mm x 50mm pressure treated timbers for this, but you can also secure 75 x 75 posts using this method, just use longer fixings, something like 8 x 150 bolts would do. Alternatively, you could drill a 30mm recess into the 75mm post and use 8 x 100mm fixings like I showed in the video. Hope this helps 👍
@@Bacrenfencing cheers mate, that's excellent 😀
@@robertburns8999 No problem Robert !