You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice th-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Thanks for taking the time to explain this. I'm getting back into woodworking after a 30+ year hiatus and it's great to find these instructionals on how to care for your tools. Great video!
In our first house we didn't have much room so my table saw sat in an unheated exterior building. When I dug it out the next spring it was very rusty. In the last 20 years I've tried everything to clean it up. Then you came along. My table saw shines!! Excellent video, thanks Ed
When sanding anything it is a good habit to use mineral spirits every time you increase your sandparper number. Otherwise you are sanding in the larger grit pieces from the previous sand level.
Beautiful job. I've had a long series of old cast iron machinery over the last 45 years and have found single aught steel wool good for chasing the rust in the bottoms of pits. Also, a few swipes with a wad of waxed paper maintains a waxed surface for a very long time if used to dust a table rather than blowing it with compressed air.
Excellent video. Thank you, as I need to do this with my expensive Grizzly Table Saw and Sander. I useG96 Gun Treatment, and SLIPIT Woodworker's Lube to protect and lubricate the surfaces.
I usually vacuum the top off, go over the surface with a 4” wide razor blade scrapper to remove dried finishes or fuzzy rust. Vac the table again and use a spray lube like WD40 and use Scotch-Brite pads. If you don’t want to wear yourself out, use an old worn out 4” wire wheel. It holds the pad firmly and gives a nice finish. I work my way up to the white pad. When it comes to the wax I start with the left wing first, then buff it out before moving across the table. I know the can says 10-15 minutes, I give it 5 minutes otherwise it will wear your arms out. Also don’t forget to wax the the throat plate. Boesheild is another good option for the table. If rust or stains persist you can use Rust Free. Wear eye protection & gloves as this is an acid. It removes rust completely, as well as paint, so if the edges of your wings & table are painted add a couple layers of painters tape. Spray a small area with Rust Free, use a piece of Scotch-Brite and rub the rusted area for a few minutes and wipe with a clean towel. In the past I have redone the complete table top after spot cleaning with some light mists and work it in to the entire top. It makes the finish more uniform in appearance. I also keep a wet rag around too just to be safe. Happy polishing & have fun.
Try a smidgen of WD-40 on those stops and sand with 220 Norton sandpaper. You need to wipe the table after each application and sanding. Clean, then apply wax and buff.
I use a bostitch product called Top coat on all my metal tools. Spray on then wipe off, lasts for about a year. Prevents rust and oxidation, is non staining and great for hand tools as well.
Many yrs ago I read a suggestion in a woodworkers forum on how after preserving the finish on a metal surface cover it with a bath towel when not in use. Try not to place your hands palm side down on the table... will corrode. Thanks for the video.
Try BoShield T-9 products . They have a product for rust removal and another to protect the top. I operate in Central Florida (humidity central) and the BoShield protectant does a great job of preventing rust from forming in the first place as I sweat over the table (unavoidable).
We use the Abralon pads in the pro shop at bowling alleys to change the surface of the bowling ball and polish it up. But, I've used them on other things and they work great. I've even used them on aluminum surfaces
For rust and stains in metal, go by your local West Marine or Marine supply store, and buy a bottle of rust and stain remover. The bright work on boats rust and stain badly. These places carry the chemicals necessary to clean up metal surfaces easily and with out much effort. Wipe or pour it on, wait a minute and wipe the corrosion and stains right off. Then polish your saw table with 320-400-600 grit and then wax.
I have two table saws that were tossed out by neighbors. I am currently working on getting them cleaned up and running. These are saws that don't have parts available any longer. They are both 10 inch saws, and I am looking for fences for them. Can't seem to find any online, so I might have to make them. I will look at the parts diagrams to get an idea of how to make them.
@@WalkersWoodworks It will be a challenge that's for sure. I have to make a base for one of them. I will look for some sheet metal somewhere for the base.
I can't really find much online about cleaning nicotine and tar from tools so I've been trying to be very careful with degreeaser on the plastic parts only of my dad's power tools. Do you know of any safe products for the metal on a table saw? Degreaser and bleach I know cause rust spots while you are cleaning (found that out in a restaurant).
Not how I'd go about it but different strokes for different folks. A less invasive way of doing this is with steel wool by hand and using a slurry mix. Slurry is a combination of your favorite rust penetrants mixed with light solvents. Maybe some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster and mineral spirits and some non-detergent oil. That way you're not attacking the good metal while you're removing rust from pores. Sandpaper is going to grind sound metal off to get down to the rust. Then once you're done slurry polishing clean your mess off with a stronger solvent. Say acetone or lacquer thinner. Apply a paste wax protection and you're done. What's going on here is just asinine.
I'm sure you can tell the couple of thousandths taken off but most of use would never notice. Nobody is making aerospace parts on a table saw. He used a DA sander down to 180, not a grinder with a 16 grit disc. You'll never remove enough metal to make a difference unless you're just a complete idiot.
@@rogermccaslin6750 I do not like to destroy the integrity of tools if I do not have to. Cleaning rust off a table saw top I do not have to either. I bought a used table saw with rust on it. A lot of rust. This much i.imgur.com/jjOer.jpg I cleaned it with steel wool and it is fine now. i.imgur.com/eqvwm.jpg
I have a dewalt jobsite saw. I don't use it for jobsites though. I don't know what surface it has but I'm pretty sure it's not cast iron. How would I clean it?
I had a winter ice melter bag on a shelf above my table saw. It had condensation and dripped on my saw table. It’s pitted and a mess. Can I hope to sand it this way and rehab it or is it junk?
How would I fix or replenish cuts that are on the top of the table? If someone were to take a knife and cut the top of the table by accident, what would be the best way to fix it?
Just found this. I'm probably picky, but I only use 400 grit on a hardwood block with WD40 and go only in the direction of the material over the saw. Then it's acetone to get rid of the WD40 at metal dust. Someone below suggested T-9 Boeshield, which I use on everything with iron in it. It won't prevent rust, but it does extend the period between cleaning sessions. After you let it soak in overnight, wipe the excess down and then do the wax. This keeps my saw clean and slick all the way through Virginia summers. Also, yes, someone else recommended a cover - I use a big hunk of Army tent, which is dense-ass canvas.
Good video. I have the same Mirka Deros orbital sander that you have, but I need to get a better hose for mine. I'm using the Rockler hose, which I don't like. Are you using the Mirka anti static hose?
You ever thought about using wd40 or another rust removal product to help break up the rust. I l have always down wd 40, scotch pad, then degreaser, followed by the paste wax
40 hrs in the business. I kinda laughed when you started with 600. Glad you learned something. You can cut your time in half do a better job if you spray WD 40 all over the surface and go through the grits if that’s the look you’re after. I personally never go past 220. Gets all the stains out and the odd rust spot. The 220 leaves the surface abraded enough to absorb whatever product you use to resist moisture. I used to use wax but have switched to the newer spray inhibitors. Can’t remember the name but it works far better than wax in a non heated shop. My saw isn’t as shiny either. Don’t see the point. You would never prep a piece of wood for finishing by sanding past 220….usually. Anything finer and all you’re doing is polishing the wood so as not to accept your first coat of finish as well. Make any sense? Just adding my two cents. Constructive criticism.
Didn't know there was such a thing? Does it transfer to wood when you run wood across it? Maybe that's why I've never seen anyone use it in woodworking. I have no idea haha.
OUCH, I'm sorry but I wouldn't consider using a power too on a machine table. A lapping block, 400 grit 3M wet and dry paper, WD-40 for lube and dress from one side to the other flipping the block and counting your strokes. Once done from one side go from the other. Start at the finishing end of the saw and finish at the head of the saw, the end you feed.
I'm surprised I dont see you using any WD40 or Pb plaster to clean of the rust and dirt also to lubricate the sandpaper. I am cleaning up and restoring a 1949 Craftman table saw!
if it helps I vaccum mne with my shop vac and /or use a air blower noggle underneath my saw when I am done using it each time. I clean it and wipe silicone on the interior twice a year...
Be sure to check out my website for other Projects, Blog posts, Plans and Tools I use! Walkersww.com
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice th-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Props to you man, the best videos are when we get to learn along with the creator- we’re all human and no one is perfect. Well done!
Thanks for taking the time to explain this. I'm getting back into woodworking after a 30+ year hiatus and it's great to find these instructionals on how to care for your tools. Great video!
Thanks!! Appreciate you watching.
In our first house we didn't have much room so my table saw sat in an unheated exterior building. When I dug it out the next spring it was very rusty. In the last 20 years I've tried everything to clean it up. Then you came along. My table saw shines!! Excellent video, thanks Ed
Awesome!!! So glad it helped out!
One of the better videos I've seen. Thanks.
When sanding anything it is a good habit to use mineral spirits every time you increase your sandparper number. Otherwise you are sanding in the larger grit pieces from the previous sand level.
Beautiful job. I've had a long series of old cast iron machinery over the last 45 years and have found single aught steel wool good for chasing the rust in the bottoms of pits. Also, a few swipes with a wad of waxed paper maintains a waxed surface for a very long time if used to dust a table rather than blowing it with compressed air.
Excellent video. Thank you, as I need to do this with my expensive Grizzly Table Saw and Sander. I useG96 Gun Treatment, and SLIPIT Woodworker's Lube to protect and lubricate the surfaces.
Nice video. I use paste wax on my cast iron saw about every 3 months, but keep it covered with a moving blanket between uses.
Very helpful video - I actually finished with “0000” steel wool … Like glass! Thanks!!
I usually vacuum the top off, go over the surface with a 4” wide razor blade scrapper to remove dried finishes or fuzzy rust. Vac the table again and use a spray lube like WD40 and use Scotch-Brite pads. If you don’t want to wear yourself out, use an old worn out 4” wire wheel. It holds the pad firmly and gives a nice finish. I work my way up to the white pad. When it comes to the wax I start with the left wing first, then buff it out before moving across the table. I know the can says 10-15 minutes, I give it 5 minutes otherwise it will wear your arms out. Also don’t forget to wax the the throat plate. Boesheild is another good option for the table. If rust or stains persist you can use Rust Free. Wear eye protection & gloves as this is an acid. It removes rust completely, as well as paint, so if the edges of your wings & table are painted add a couple layers of painters tape. Spray a small area with Rust Free, use a piece of Scotch-Brite and rub the rusted area for a few minutes and wipe with a clean towel. In the past I have redone the complete table top after spot cleaning with some light mists and work it in to the entire top. It makes the finish more uniform in appearance. I also keep a wet rag around too just to be safe. Happy polishing & have fun.
Try a smidgen of WD-40 on those stops and sand with 220 Norton sandpaper. You need to wipe the table after each application and sanding. Clean, then apply wax and buff.
I use a bostitch product called Top coat on all my metal tools. Spray on then wipe off, lasts for about a year. Prevents rust and oxidation, is non staining and great for hand tools as well.
I never owned a table saw, and what a video. Thanks very much.
Thanks for watching! :)
Many yrs ago I read a suggestion in a woodworkers forum on how after preserving the finish on a metal surface cover it with a bath towel when not in use. Try not to place your hands palm side down on the table... will corrode. Thanks for the video.
Try BoShield T-9 products . They have a product for rust removal and another to protect the top. I operate in Central Florida (humidity central) and the BoShield protectant does a great job of preventing rust from forming in the first place as I sweat over the table (unavoidable).
I will look for that!
We use the Abralon pads in the pro shop at bowling alleys to change the surface of the bowling ball and polish it up. But, I've used them on other things and they work great. I've even used them on aluminum surfaces
I love them!
@@WalkersWoodworks dude, I got a full set ranging from 180 grit - 4000 grit on 2sands.com a few years back
I don't know why I never thought to do this to my bandsaw as well....but now I know what I'm doing later today!
Haha there you go!
Looks nice
Thanks that is very helpful, Ed
Thanks for watching!
Great video, but I am curious. Is there any reason my last few passes with sanding can't be done by wet sanding? Just to get an even smoother finish?
For rust and stains in metal, go by your local West Marine or Marine supply store, and buy a bottle of rust and stain remover. The bright work on boats rust and stain badly. These places carry the chemicals necessary to clean up metal surfaces easily and with out much effort. Wipe or pour it on, wait a minute and wipe the corrosion and stains right off. Then polish your saw table with 320-400-600 grit and then wax.
I'll try that in the future!
I have been using fluid film with good results. my saw is in a steel sided pole barn everything rusts easy in there.
Nice! I'll have to check that out.
I have two table saws that were tossed out by neighbors. I am currently working on getting them cleaned up and running. These are saws that don't have parts available any longer. They are both 10 inch saws, and I am looking for fences for them. Can't seem to find any online, so I might have to make them. I will look at the parts diagrams to get an idea of how to make them.
Good luck! Sounds like a fun project.
@@WalkersWoodworks It will be a challenge that's for sure. I have to make a base for one of them. I will look for some sheet metal somewhere for the base.
Super helpful, thanks for the video! First time I've seen someone go down in grits, rather than up 😂😂
Haha wasn't the plan.
It your top aluminum? Mine is. I wonder how safe it will be if i use 320 sandpaper.
Any idea what setting your sander speed was on? High/medium/low?
Nice job bro! Привет из центральной России (Hello from middle Russia)
Thank you!
Alawsys good info, Brando. Saw looked great after!
Thanks man! It was definitely needed!
I can't really find much online about cleaning nicotine and tar from tools so I've been trying to be very careful with degreeaser on the plastic parts only of my dad's power tools. Do you know of any safe products for the metal on a table saw? Degreaser and bleach I know cause rust spots while you are cleaning (found that out in a restaurant).
Don't Forget to check out the woodworking plans I have available! - gumroad.com/walkerswoodworks
You sound like Jim from the Office (and that is awesome!)
One more step above this and you’d have a metal “patent leather” shine! Thank you for sharing.
Haha I thought about it!
Not how I'd go about it but different strokes for different folks. A less invasive way of doing this is with steel wool by hand and using a slurry mix. Slurry is a combination of your favorite rust penetrants mixed with light solvents. Maybe some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster and mineral spirits and some non-detergent oil. That way you're not attacking the good metal while you're removing rust from pores. Sandpaper is going to grind sound metal off to get down to the rust. Then once you're done slurry polishing clean your mess off with a stronger solvent. Say acetone or lacquer thinner. Apply a paste wax protection and you're done. What's going on here is just asinine.
your concern is removing good metal lmao. you could sand on that forever with the grits he used and never make a noticeable dent in metal.
@@AngelousSpike One swipe is noticeable. You can measure the thickness of a mark left by a felt tip pen.
I'm sure you can tell the couple of thousandths taken off but most of use would never notice. Nobody is making aerospace parts on a table saw. He used a DA sander down to 180, not a grinder with a 16 grit disc. You'll never remove enough metal to make a difference unless you're just a complete idiot.
@@rogermccaslin6750 I do not like to destroy the integrity of tools if I do not have to. Cleaning rust off a table saw top I do not have to either. I bought a used table saw with rust on it. A lot of rust. This much i.imgur.com/jjOer.jpg I cleaned it with steel wool and it is fine now. i.imgur.com/eqvwm.jpg
Spray with WD40 or PB Blaster and let sit for about an hour before sanding with maroon scotch pad.
I have a dewalt jobsite saw. I don't use it for jobsites though. I don't know what surface it has but I'm pretty sure it's not cast iron. How would I clean it?
Probably just try steel wool and wd40
I had a winter ice melter bag on a shelf above my table saw. It had condensation and dripped on my saw table. It’s pitted and a mess. Can I hope to sand it this way and rehab it or is it junk?
Try it out.
Naval Jelly by Loctite is great at removing stains on metal.
What sander did you use?
How would I fix or replenish cuts that are on the top of the table? If someone were to take a knife and cut the top of the table by accident, what would be the best way to fix it?
That I'm not sure. May have to weld if they are to bad.
Just found this. I'm probably picky, but I only use 400 grit on a hardwood block with WD40 and go only in the direction of the material over the saw. Then it's acetone to get rid of the WD40 at metal dust. Someone below suggested T-9 Boeshield, which I use on everything with iron in it. It won't prevent rust, but it does extend the period between cleaning sessions. After you let it soak in overnight, wipe the excess down and then do the wax. This keeps my saw clean and slick all the way through Virginia summers. Also, yes, someone else recommended a cover - I use a big hunk of Army tent, which is dense-ass canvas.
All good tips!
Is that cast iron? It looks like stainless (table top)
Could you use a car wax or not?
Great advice. Thanks
Thanks for watching Gene!
I like to clean my slots with a brass brush and mineral spirits. Then I wax it.
Good idea!
What kinda wax
That is a nice sander, make and model, please.
It's in the description ;) but it's a Mirka Deros 6" I love it!!
I’ve got and older craftsman with the slotted top, would the same methods work for this?
Yep! It's all cast iron.
What brand and model is your random orbit sander, and where did you get it?
It'd the Mirka Deros. There is a link to it in the description 👍
A slippery surface makes it safer to use. You’re not fighting with your piece of wood.
Good video. I have the same Mirka Deros orbital sander that you have, but I need to get a better hose for mine. I'm using the Rockler hose, which I don't like. Are you using the Mirka anti static hose?
I'm using whatever one came with the vac lol. I'm going to say no. Cause it shocks me sometimes.
On my delta table saw restore I had to drop down to 120 to get some of the junk off.
I believe it!
You ever thought about using wd40 or another rust removal product to help break up the rust. I l have always down wd 40, scotch pad, then degreaser, followed by the paste wax
Yes I've done that as well.
What way do you prefer?
Having used the WD40 method myself, I've always found it to be messy. I never thought of using high grit sanding. Much less messy.
@@awlthatwoodcrafts8911 messy? Maybe you ought to take up knitting, or something? Messy, GTFO!
Would this method apply to all steel top saws? I’ve got and old craftsman that has a slotted top.
What kind of table saw do you have?
The 3hp 36" sawstop.
40 hrs in the business. I kinda laughed when you started with 600. Glad you learned something. You can cut your time in half do a better job if you spray WD 40 all over the surface and go through the grits if that’s the look you’re after. I personally never go past 220. Gets all the stains out and the odd rust spot. The 220 leaves the surface abraded enough to absorb whatever product you use to resist moisture. I used to use wax but have switched to the newer spray inhibitors. Can’t remember the name but it works far better than wax in a non heated shop. My saw isn’t as shiny either. Don’t see the point.
You would never prep a piece of wood for finishing by sanding past 220….usually. Anything finer and all you’re doing is polishing the wood so as not to accept your first coat of finish as well. Make any sense?
Just adding my two cents. Constructive criticism.
That paste wax is for wood. Why dont you use a wax for metal tops ?? Ps.. you can use the merkur pads to apply the metal paste wax .
Didn't know there was such a thing? Does it transfer to wood when you run wood across it? Maybe that's why I've never seen anyone use it in woodworking. I have no idea haha.
Thanks for the info! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Thanks for watching!
OUCH, I'm sorry but I wouldn't consider using a power too on a machine table. A lapping block, 400 grit 3M wet and dry paper, WD-40 for lube and dress from one side to the other flipping the block and counting your strokes. Once done from one side go from the other. Start at the finishing end of the saw and finish at the head of the saw, the end you feed.
Use a rust remover. Then use the sander lubed with WD40.
Last time I used a rust remover it left stains on my surface. So now I do it this way.
Silly question will that work with regular sand paper?
Yes for sure.
Just got a table saw with a rusted top. Perfect timing! Is there any reason you couldn't use your rag under the mirka sander to buff out the wax?
That would work well. I would probably not use the dust collection though. Mirka actually makes buffing pads for the Deros. 👍
Hey buddy! You watch that finger at 3:00.
Haha I do what I want! 😂😂
I'm surprised I dont see you using any WD40 or Pb plaster to clean of the rust and dirt also to lubricate the sandpaper. I am cleaning up and restoring a 1949 Craftman table saw!
I probably will try that in the future.
You can make a less boring video with the same good info by cutting to the chase.
I try to. Actually one my most received comments is that I do cut to the chase. 🤷♂️
Stop complaining about FREE content.
What about the inside
Inside the cabinet?
Walkers Woodworks
I mean the inside of the table saw (sawdust and stuff )
if it helps I vaccum mne with my shop vac and /or use a air blower noggle underneath my saw when I am done using it each time. I clean it and wipe silicone on the interior twice a year...
Jim Brent
Thank you so much
So what I learned by watching this is: don’t ever buy a used sawstop.
Why is that?
Try some navel jelly in the beginning to help to remove the product
I'll try that next time.
Sorry dude but it really seems like you winged it. I’m rooting for you though.
1500 for a sander.......no thanks
That's for the sander and vac. It's a top of the line professional sander. Pretty normal price for that caliber sander.