True bummer, and it’s not the only problem. After fixing this took another test drive and no 3rd gear! Probably the forward direct clutch drum, so out comes the transmission again for an inspection, ugh! Guess what, this was a new part as well.
@@DrivingIntelligence It happens.When I rebuilt my 4R70W I missed the excessive wear on the pump.Had issues going into gear. I only drove a little bit.Pulled trans back out found the problem and replaced the pump.Works great now.
@@DrivingIntelligenceIt was very lazy going into gear reverse was worse. Way worse when warm. Once in gear and reved up it would drive and shift fine. Digagnosed by checking line pressure it was super low. I was lucky and no damage was caused from the low pressure. After the new pump I have around 500 miles on my car working perfectly . By the way this 4R70 is installed in my 75 Gran Torino Starsky and Hutch car with 351W. And US shift controller. Over drive is great
@@mycontinental3611 Was there any evidence of wear in the pump when it was pulled? Mine appeared perfect. I also replaced all seals in all subassemblies using a master rebuild kit and the higher performance SONNAX components.
Wow thanks Barry . I was going to ask about the diode/s . I’m hearing ford is not making them anymore for these transmissions?? Thanks again for your knowledge Mouse
Mark! I'm having to remove the transmission again! Another failed part, probably from the same supplier! I have to disassemble and inspect all the subassemblies! :(
@@DrivingIntelligencedid you ever fix the problem? i am having problems with my mustang with the same trans that i just bought, it only revs and crawls in drive but reverse is fine, i replaced the torque converter and filter and that hasn’t fix it, my traction and cruise control buttons don’t work but OD does, im not getting any codes for it but i’m still thinking electrical
@@robfolder sorry for this late reply... just catching up on some of my comments. I just went through my transmission, and you likely have a mechanical problem such as worn clutches, leaking accumulators, worn valve body... did it fail suddenly, or get progressively worse? You might need to disassemble the transmission to find the issue, but first I would pull the valve body, check the accumulators and rebuild the valve body while it's out with a quality shift kit. Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/YwPMiS6sMtI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=BC_HAVYK7x4okLh1
Great video. Firstly. And my alternator died. I put new one n belt in. And my od light started flashing. Code says solenoid B is the prob. I’ve checked all visible wires n fluid levels n fuses/relays. All that is good. My question is,would driving with incorrect voltage burn out a solenoid? Or was It just weird timing? I’m bout to dump fluid and inspect inside but I mite try not to ohm out that plug. I don’t have a lift I’m on ramps. So idk how accessible it is. But I’m definitely gunna check new parts. wtf our country goin to shit just another example. New part sold dead. I’ve brighten parts that came boxed wrong. Or the counter guy argues with me over part I want cause his computer says I’m wrong I had to physically go take out alternator and go back to show him before he would sell it to me. Tried sellin me wrong belt and wrong part. Thank you for info I’d like to kno if u think the dead batts/alternator could cause solenoid to die?
I would say anything is possible, a voltage spike can cause damage. What code are you getting? Same as shown in my video? Best to test at the plug, and if you can't get to that, pull the pan and check the solenoid, and do some other maintenance while you're in there. I have a 4R70W Playlist.
quick question I was seeing your older videos and saw you did a ram air modification, I just had a few concerns I go to the beach often and sometimes mudding. It also rains alot where im from, was wondering if that would be an issue since the ram air is closer the floor.
I don’t think you’ll have a problem other than ground clearance. There is not a direct connection between the output of my ram air system and the input of the airbox. The biggest problem, you might get some water in the fender, but I don’t think it’s going to be a problem. I’m sure none of it will get into the intake.
I'm not a total expert on this transmission, but there are several areas that can impact shifting into 3rd, loss of the 2-3 accumulator, worn out valve body, problems with the overdrive accumulator, damaged forward direct drum. You note it goes to higher rpm's, but does it actually shift? Or just neutral out?
I dont have any codes thrown. I have a 05 crown vic p71 it shifts 123 fine but half throttle at 3 and in od feels like neutral if i smash the peddle itll go. I changed fluid and filter tried resetting pcm and tried a junkyard one nothing worked. any insight before i throw even more money or just give up.
Hi, kinda hard to diagnose from afar, but here are some of the problems I would look at first before pulling the transmission and inspecting internal parts. Valve body and accumulator issues will require removal of the valve body, but not the transmission: Your shift accumulators could be leaking fluid due to wear, these are found in the transmission case behind the valve body. The following valve body components could be damaged, stuck or worn: solenoid regulator valve, 2-3 capacity modulator valve, 3-4 shift valve &/or 3-4 shift valve end plug, 3-4 capacity modulator valve, overdrive servo regulator valve & sleeve... this is an overwhelming list of possible fail points. When I had some transmission issues, I replaced all shift accumulators and rebuilt the valve body with a good shift kit. This video shows the parts I used, all linked in the description of the video: th-cam.com/video/YwPMiS6sMtI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4yXv5MrtAzC2Rj2u & this is my 4R70W Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLGNsbVXzRfZM6WpCF862q4DlkyatzFIMz.html&si=NOpYg6JefrpJL1In
@@DrivingIntelligence Alright thank you. I dropped the pan again and the fluid was burnt so it overheated. Im going to check the cooler lines and check the valve body and pray that nothing got damage due the the overheat.
When I rebuilt my 4R70W and 4R75w I used the original over they worked fine before.So far no problems.Thats a bummer that your new one is bad.
True bummer, and it’s not the only problem. After fixing this took another test drive and no 3rd gear! Probably the forward direct clutch drum, so out comes the transmission again for an inspection, ugh! Guess what, this was a new part as well.
@@DrivingIntelligence It happens.When I rebuilt my 4R70W I missed the excessive wear on the pump.Had issues going into gear. I only drove a little bit.Pulled trans back out found the problem and replaced the pump.Works great now.
What were the symptoms and how did you determine the pump was worn?
@@DrivingIntelligenceIt was very lazy going into gear reverse was worse. Way worse when warm. Once in gear and reved up it would drive and shift fine. Digagnosed by checking line pressure it was super low. I was lucky and no damage was caused from the low pressure. After the new pump I have around 500 miles on my car working perfectly . By the way this 4R70 is installed in my 75 Gran Torino Starsky and Hutch car with 351W. And US shift controller. Over drive is great
@@mycontinental3611 Was there any evidence of wear in the pump when it was pulled? Mine appeared perfect. I also replaced all seals in all subassemblies using a master rebuild kit and the higher performance SONNAX components.
Wow thanks Barry . I was going to ask about the diode/s . I’m hearing ford is not making them anymore for these transmissions??
Thanks again for your knowledge
Mouse
Hi Mouse, I linked the solenoids and electrical strip in the description.
Not much on the internet for this diagnostic approach.
Thanks for that diagram!
Hope this video helps
That's horrible with new parts. What a waste of time and energy. Glad you got your F150 back on the road.
Mark! I'm having to remove the transmission again! Another failed part, probably from the same supplier! I have to disassemble and inspect all the subassemblies! :(
@@DrivingIntelligence that stinks Barry! You will get it fixed.
@@titanicfilmsbymark thx Mark, I'm frustrated, but committed
@@DrivingIntelligencedid you ever fix the problem? i am having problems with my mustang with the same trans that i just bought, it only revs and crawls in drive but reverse is fine, i replaced the torque converter and filter and that hasn’t fix it, my traction and cruise control buttons don’t work but OD does, im not getting any codes for it but i’m still thinking electrical
@@robfolder sorry for this late reply... just catching up on some of my comments. I just went through my transmission, and you likely have a mechanical problem such as worn clutches, leaking accumulators, worn valve body... did it fail suddenly, or get progressively worse? You might need to disassemble the transmission to find the issue, but first I would pull the valve body, check the accumulators and rebuild the valve body while it's out with a quality shift kit. Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/YwPMiS6sMtI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=BC_HAVYK7x4okLh1
Great video. Firstly. And my alternator died. I put new one n belt in. And my od light started flashing. Code says solenoid B is the prob. I’ve checked all visible wires n fluid levels n fuses/relays. All that is good. My question is,would driving with incorrect voltage burn out a solenoid? Or was It just weird timing? I’m bout to dump fluid and inspect inside but I mite try not to ohm out that plug. I don’t have a lift I’m on ramps. So idk how accessible it is. But I’m definitely gunna check new parts. wtf our country goin to shit just another example. New part sold dead. I’ve brighten parts that came boxed wrong. Or the counter guy argues with me over part I want cause his computer says I’m wrong I had to physically go take out alternator and go back to show him before he would sell it to me. Tried sellin me wrong belt and wrong part. Thank you for info I’d like to kno if u think the dead batts/alternator could cause solenoid to die?
I would say anything is possible, a voltage spike can cause damage. What code are you getting? Same as shown in my video? Best to test at the plug, and if you can't get to that, pull the pan and check the solenoid, and do some other maintenance while you're in there. I have a 4R70W Playlist.
You must use ford motor company oem solenoids only most of your aftermarket ones are single and not dual cycle solenoids
I reinstalled the original Ford solenoid pack, not success :(
Hey, what's the update for the valvoline restore and protect? Is the oil consumption better?
Well, since my truck is out of commission due to transmission work, I don’t have an update. Hopefully soon.
quick question I was seeing your older videos and saw you did a ram air modification, I just had a few concerns I go to the beach often and sometimes mudding. It also rains alot where im from, was wondering if that would be an issue since the ram air is closer the floor.
I don’t think you’ll have a problem other than ground clearance. There is not a direct connection between the output of my ram air system and the input of the airbox. The biggest problem, you might get some water in the fender, but I don’t think it’s going to be a problem. I’m sure none of it will get into the intake.
Did you ever put power to the solenoid to test if it both sides actuate or not ?
I did not, as in the video, I only tested resistance which checked out.
Many thanks....probably a Chinese soleniod..
glad you liked it, and as far as Chinese made is concerned, likely sad and true
Would this issue prevent the transmission from shifting into 3rd and 4th gear by chance? Or make it take higher rpms to do so
I'm not a total expert on this transmission, but there are several areas that can impact shifting into 3rd, loss of the 2-3 accumulator, worn out valve body, problems with the overdrive accumulator, damaged forward direct drum. You note it goes to higher rpm's, but does it actually shift? Or just neutral out?
@DrivingIntelligence as of recent it just stays in 2nd gear and won't shift into 3rd
Do you have a check engine light, diagnostic trouble codes, and is the overdrive light on your shifter flashing?
Check engine light is on, haven't had a chance to check the codes but the overdrive light is flashing
Nobody can help you until you check diagnostic trouble codes
I dont have any codes thrown. I have a 05 crown vic p71 it shifts 123 fine but half throttle at 3 and in od feels like neutral if i smash the peddle itll go. I changed fluid and filter tried resetting pcm and tried a junkyard one nothing worked. any insight before i throw even more money or just give up.
Hi, kinda hard to diagnose from afar, but here are some of the problems I would look at first before pulling the transmission and inspecting internal parts. Valve body and accumulator issues will require removal of the valve body, but not the transmission: Your shift accumulators could be leaking fluid due to wear, these are found in the transmission case behind the valve body. The following valve body components could be damaged, stuck or worn: solenoid regulator valve, 2-3 capacity modulator valve, 3-4 shift valve &/or 3-4 shift valve end plug, 3-4 capacity modulator valve, overdrive servo regulator valve & sleeve... this is an overwhelming list of possible fail points. When I had some transmission issues, I replaced all shift accumulators and rebuilt the valve body with a good shift kit. This video shows the parts I used, all linked in the description of the video: th-cam.com/video/YwPMiS6sMtI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4yXv5MrtAzC2Rj2u & this is my 4R70W Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLGNsbVXzRfZM6WpCF862q4DlkyatzFIMz.html&si=NOpYg6JefrpJL1In
@@DrivingIntelligence Alright thank you. I dropped the pan again and the fluid was burnt so it overheated. Im going to check the cooler lines and check the valve body and pray that nothing got damage due the the overheat.
@@nj4675 ouch, hope you didn't run it too long like that. Lots of friction material in the pan?
@@DrivingIntelligence not an awful lot hopefully I can save it. worse case scenario if you advice doesnt work I just get it rebuilt.
Good luck, stay in touch and let me know what you find out. 4R70W is rather easy to rebuild.