@@mikeselectricstuff As for the GPS thing- a lot of LTE modules have GPS features, and the antenna is cheap, so why not? It doesn't look like this thing's been costdowned into oblivion yet.
@@mikeselectricstuff Should have said it got run over by a HGV train, when your EV was clobbered in a level crossing, because the battery went end of charge right as you were crossing, with the charge port 20m away. I think there is a tick box in the call centre for " lost the charger", and a short summary field for a reason why........
Just found this channel thanks to a mention by Big Clive. This stuff is right up my alley, so you better believe I'll be watching more. Apparently I've already been subbed for some time, but for some reason wasn't getting any videos of yours' in my subscription feed. Oh well, just means more to binge on now. Also, the title in your thumbnail was difficult to read. For future reference, white text outlined in black can be read on any background. It's a very nifty trick. Thanks for making these videos. Cheers!
In 1994 I worked on the charger coms for the EV1 paddle. That's right no exposed metal, no connector and all high frequency inductive charging like your phone. We used spread spectrum coms so the charger could communicate with the vehicle as it charged. it's 25 years later folks.
@@trey1531 Not as much ahead of its time, as - well funded by GM and backed with a mandate from legislators who guaranteed a government market. Then it all went away; they crushed everything, and we drove big trucks and SUVs for the next 25 years. Any effort or money put into EV's since that time is token - including Tesla. GM spent 10 million in Advertising alone in 1997 dollars.
25:24 Regarding the relay passing the CP line through - it is to enable the cable to activate an output socket from the vehicle. Bascially, since the cable is powered by the mains, if there is no communication, the cable wouldn't be able to turn on. It probably also prevents the cable from being stuck in the socket - we had that problem with our first prototype once. Any stray load can potentially lock the cable in the socket.
28:42 signal briefly saying 32a available...might not be with all makes for sure...My car Tesla M3 max 48A, always ramps up its charge current over about 10 seconds. Stays at 1-2 for the first several seconds, then ramps up about 5a at a time until current limit reached. I presume it's to avoid hitting the grid with an instant 10kw load.
also ramping up allows for checking voltage sag... another method to determine actual wiring capacity rather than just assuming every socket is perfectly wired and no wear on contacts
The missing diode check situation can indeed be dangerous if there happens to be no earth connection, so that the fault current goes through a person. This might be rare in the UK (?), but it is definitely common in less developed countries. Thank you for bringing this up and demonstrating it so visually!
Great video mikeselectricstuff. Really enjoyed it and your critique of the compliance to standards is refreshingly detailed. Give me a sec......there you go - subscribed and all notifications on. Thanks dude - this is awesome stuff. Best wishes my friend.
I have contacted Ohme about the battery optimisation as I had seen it charging above 16A and this is their reply. “Battery optimisation attempts to charge your car at slower rates where possible, it will also try to keep the battery charged to 50% for as long as possible before completing the charge. This is why you may have seen the charge schedule set a 16A charge on one occasion and a 32A charge on another, this is the scheduling algorithm re-assessing how Ohme can charge the car. The speed of charge may be scheduled at different rates throughout the charge session.” Thanks for this most informative video
They may well have had it tested; we can't just assume that they're lying about that. But as mentioned above, if Ohme really did get this tested by TÜV, someone at TÜV must be looking a bit sheepish right now...
Weird. The first time I came across GMR was about six hours ago, reading a Wikipedia article about IBM Deskstar drives (in turn directed from a Reddit thread). Now it gets a mention at 17:49.
In the USA the black/white/green colors aren't used for single phase 240v. Those are colors for 120v single phase. Black/red are used for the 220v, white is used for neutral in a three phase, and green for ground.
@@therealjammit To be fair, they actually are used in situations where a neutral is not required. You'd be hard-pressed to find 3 conductor portable cable with just red black and green, and 4 conductor cable for non-120/240V use would be wasteful. Of course you're supposed to relabel the white as red on both ends, but no one usually does this unless its high current industrial stuff.
Very impressive tear-down and testing of this product. You are extremely knowledgeable. Have you worked in the area of functional safety in your professional career? Huge thanks for a fantastic video!
Hi Mike, Thanks for this excellent video. I'm particularly interested from 20:40. I have solar panels a phase angle controlled water heating diverter an Ohme and an EV. I would really like to try using the input pilot signal with the Ohme. I bought my command plug version of Ohme from Octopus Energy. If I can get to it, I think this pilot signal could be opto isolated, what is the input voltage, frequency (1 kHz?), pulse width range to control the pilot signal? How low can the charging current be brought down? Does it change in real time when charging your EV, does it change in steps or continuously with pulse width. I am developing home automation and would like to incorporate a feature of charging my car with sunshine when available. I'd be really interested in any guidance you could offer me.
44:30, RCD trips and then it seems to immediately repower itself multiple times. Is there nothing in the standard about requiring a manual reset to clear the error?
I don't recall details but I think whether or not manual reset is needed depends on the country, as there are local differences in regulations, however remember that in normal usage, pulling the plug out is a manual reset
I'm curious, I've heard about connecting EV's to unregulated DC from solar farms etc., how would these react to such scenarios? And yes, I know the cars internal chargers would have to be built to accept DC by automatically bypassing the PFC and other made-for-AC stuff
Completely infeasible. DC charging puts the charging control in the supply out of the car, if you wanted to be able to attach any random PV farm you would have to change a lot and add expense that nobody wants.
@@irfp460 Well.. not convinved of that. Whoever that make a car charger would deal with: Get AC into DC, then use the DC to charge battery via regulator (possibly isolated). Just as suggested, the PFC bypassed(or used to boost the voltage if needed) should be enough. Just like cellphone DC charge: The battery isn't charged with battery directly connected to the USB "charger", but instead go via a charge controller in the phone. (except some of the optional fast-charge "standards")
Maybe give it a go, just be careful as high current DC is unforgiving. I do know some of the V2G chargers use a DC connection directly to the cars battery, this might make more sense, though makes the 'charger' and actual charger.
@@mikeselectricstuff Excellent :) Somebody had already taken apart a Tesla Model 3 onboard charger, absolutely fascinating stuff : th-cam.com/video/3ARHdRwfxjY/w-d-xo.html
Excellent video, you're like the UK's Electrical 'Jerry Rigs Everything'! Quick question, thinking of getting a Nissan Leaf but will have to charge it with the EVSE (Granny) cable. As the car will be 10M from the nearest socket I'll need to use an extension, can you recommend any, I've read that the cable needs to be 2.5mm2 thickness, would a 1.5mm2 cable be ok as long as it can handle the 2.2Kw load?
Really good / helpful - Thank you .. A question - do you know "if" I was to buy the version with the 2 Type 2 connections, and then cut the plug off and hard wired it - would it work? ... ie. does the control lead on the input type 2 do anything / would it be configured and not work if I were to hard-wire the incoming three cables (LNE)? Thank you
Thanks! Having a feedback loop on charging specs will cost more, having a profile is logistically straight forward and if anything busts they can go back to manufacture fault rather than fault find on the charger itself.
could totally see this some places use alot of salt for road de-icing those cables aren't exactly short in the car its self. chafing rubbing and corrosion are good ways to get thru a cable sheath. so many things could go wrong with the car its self to make this an issue.
I have an ohme cable and I asked it to restricted to 10a from the factory, it was simple. But how can you upgrade the water egress maybe increase the ip rating, would srink tube work?
I don't think repairing these is generally a good idea. It's better to get a new unit or send it to the manufacturer for repair. If something goes wrong, that's a *lot* of power and could result in some very unsafe conditions.
Is it possible to use the connections for the type 2 to type 2 pilot Comms to retro fit control of charge current. i.e. limit the device to 10A if I am at a camp site for example? Outstanding video btw. Also found here from BigClive
27:30 That it charges for about a minute before turning off is annoying if you care about the cycle count of your EV battery. When I was shopping around for EV's that was one of the criteria I looked for. Seeing that this charger would essentially double my battery charge count, I'm put off by that.
That's not how cycles work. A cycle is an equivalent of pulling out and restoring the full capacity of the battery, regardless of how many charging or discharging events that involves. A quick 1 minute charge event that adds 0.01% of the battery's capacity puts 0.01% of a cycle's worth of wear on the battery.
@@mikeselectricstuff In that case I hope other manufacturers have implemented a better solution than Nissan. On my 2014 Leaf I can see the L1/L2 charge count go up.
BTW they are some open source EVSE (TLDR: openevse.com). Unfortunately regulation kinda restrict their usage and bump the price of about 500$CAN for the same thing...
@@mikeselectricstuffI've seen sims put in devices with little to no restrictions. They might not expect that anyone would actually open it and use the SIM
Iv'e actually had the big screw glands crack, usually the not, I had a large gauge DC wire put some strain on a name brand connector and crack the inside under the locknut but also it wasnt the most professional installation :)
Mike exposed his (publicly known) business email by filming and subsequently broadcasting the video. The same can be done by opening your email client, filming the screen whilst you use it and then uploading the video to TH-cam. Try it, we will let you know if it works.
I’ve seen a number of appliances (sold in the US) use US colors for the power inlet and European colors for after the switch/filter/breaker. Actually kinda nice because it makes tracing wires easier. I suspect the real reason here is just “it’s the cable we could source”.
So it's single phase? with 3 thick leads. Seems like a waste. I've always wanted to see the electronics in the handle and not have any box. And to keep the cable simple and inexpensive.
@@mikeselectricstuff Sure but overall the advantage should be for it being in the handle. It's no small difference, in portability as well. I'm puzzled that double relays don't seem to exist for space and cost savings.
@@mikeselectricstuff yeah true. I wonder if relays could be smaller in general. How important is ground to a charger application? my intuition is that it could easily be avoided but is there a lightning reason or other? the car itself is fairly isolation.
@@DanFrederiksen the EV spec dictates that the car body must be earthed. Most EV drivers just carry a Type 2 to Type 2 cable, these are entirely passive and are quite portable - the portable EVSE only really makes sense for particular use cases.
So efficient that on my brothers Volkswagen Transporter, it doesn't charge at all,unless he disconnects the 12v lead acid battery to reset the vans electronics. For a new electric van, what a load of crap.
Next time you use your phone to demonstrate an app it would be less distracting if you set your phone to "dim the display" to something like 10 minutes rather than a few seconds. Avoiding the need to keep touching the screen. Just sayin. Thanks for the review. 😉👌
4 years ago (or something similar) we got the ability to purchase electrity by the hour. The difference from nordpool pricing were marginal, even with the Swedish state mandated rules with hidden fees, illegal for energy companies to disclose. The Swedes should go with the Norwegians, with $10000 annual tax relief for EV. Including the $2000000 upfront subsidies.
Not in the case of cars that don't give Ohme access to state of charge, such as Hyundai/Kia. My one-off test of Ohme in this mode (on an ioniq) just resulted in low charging currents. 6.6kW isn't high anyway, Ioniq can take 70kW, so I don't bother.
mojoblues66 That is not quite correct! Be sure this was considered! The last thing Ohme wants to do, is to expose you to a security vulnerability. If you are worried about it don’t wait to contact Ohme, but be sure this security issue was considered in the development of the whole system. Thanks for your feedback and for your interest in our product. Critical user feedback is crucial for our mission.
And that is precisely why I would only use the OEM device that came with the EV I purchased; that is to say: if I were to buy a Tesla Model S/3/X/Y (Yes, even in the new 85kWh models), I would use the Tesla EVSE that came with the Tesla vehicle. Somewhat recently, I had to replace the battery in my BlackBerry Curve 8900 and I insisted that I get an OEM battery from BlackBerry for the device. Thank goodness I had the original OEM charger from the previous device I had that got stolen.
Your use is offset by renewable sources only. At least 25% of UK energy comes from wind and another 20-25% from nuclear, as well as imports from France (primarily nuclear) and the Netherlands (primarily wind).
@@edcooper2396 And that's in the dead of winter! Over the past summer we had rather nice amounts of electricity produced by the increasing number of solar PV farms around the country; didn't we have a couple of days of using absolutely no coal for electricity? There are loads of those farms visible from driving along the M4 and A303 in the Reading/Andover/Basingstoke sort of area :)
am I the only one who think 32 amp is tiny . when I think EV charger I think a couple of hundreds amps low voltage power supply! why on earth would you charge your battery at a lower rate than the maximum output? if you are at home and on the grid why limit yourself?!
@@mikeselectricstuff I have a traditional gas powerd car. I cad refill faster than I can empty my tank. I'm probably stupid but I expect at least the same from EV. so I guess 7kW is good enough if your goals is overnigt top up (but you could probably get away with 2.3kw ( traditional 10A plug). It's probably just that I don't see what use I could get of an EV. I currently have a 3km comute and I could probably do it with a small EV as an everyday thing (if I had the finance for a second car). But in that case a couple of hundreds of watts charger would be good enough. those semi specialised installation just don't do it for me.
32 Amps @ 110 volts (US) would be 3520 watts, but at 230 volts (The EU standard is 230 V +6%/−10%, so anywhere from 210 to 240) would be 7360 watts. Forget about the amps, it is all about the power! And the higher the amps the more power you are using to heat up the cables (I squared R losses), or you could spend more money on much thicker lower resistance cables to reduce the heating. But there is an upper point where you need to start making the cables hollow. At 60 Hz copper has a skin depth of ~8.5 mm [~0.33"] (or at 50Hz copper ~9.3mm[0.37"]).
Pumping power into the batteries really fast will also reduce the battery's life - though the effect is negligible if you just charge it on a quick charger once in a while, but it will start taking it's toll if you do it every night.
Not sure what you're on about. The videos are lengthy because they contain a boatload of information. There's little if any "dead time" that could be edited out.
Really enjoyed this. I appreciate how thoroughly you took it apart and tested it.
"I told them I didn't want to get it replaced because I'd already taken it to bits"- ever the engineer's curse.
Call centres don't have a tick-box for that - got about 3 calls before they stopped asking me to send it for replacement!
@@mikeselectricstuff As for the GPS thing- a lot of LTE modules have GPS features, and the antenna is cheap, so why not? It doesn't look like this thing's been costdowned into oblivion yet.
@@skonkfactory GPS could also just be used for getting time since its built in to the cellular module anyway
@@mikeselectricstuff Should have said it got run over by a HGV train, when your EV was clobbered in a level crossing, because the battery went end of charge right as you were crossing, with the charge port 20m away. I think there is a tick box in the call centre for " lost the charger", and a short summary field for a reason why........
Maybe if you phrase it like "It was opened to test it for non-standard-compliance and destroyed it the process". :D
Just found this channel thanks to a mention by Big Clive. This stuff is right up my alley, so you better believe I'll be watching more. Apparently I've already been subbed for some time, but for some reason wasn't getting any videos of yours' in my subscription feed. Oh well, just means more to binge on now.
Also, the title in your thumbnail was difficult to read. For future reference, white text outlined in black can be read on any background. It's a very nifty trick. Thanks for making these videos. Cheers!
In 1994 I worked on the charger coms for the EV1 paddle. That's right no exposed metal, no connector and all high frequency inductive charging like your phone. We used spread spectrum coms so the charger could communicate with the vehicle as it charged. it's 25 years later folks.
Wow! EV1 was ahead of it's time.
👍
@@trey1531 Not as much ahead of its time, as - well funded by GM and backed with a mandate from legislators who guaranteed a government market. Then it all went away; they crushed everything, and we drove big trucks and SUVs for the next 25 years. Any effort or money put into EV's since that time is token - including Tesla. GM spent 10 million in Advertising alone in 1997 dollars.
25:24 Regarding the relay passing the CP line through - it is to enable the cable to activate an output socket from the vehicle. Bascially, since the cable is powered by the mains, if there is no communication, the cable wouldn't be able to turn on.
It probably also prevents the cable from being stuck in the socket - we had that problem with our first prototype once. Any stray load can potentially lock the cable in the socket.
Well, I see you found this out yourself a minute later in the video :)
Isn't it also to prevent you driving off with the cable plugged in?
28:42 signal briefly saying 32a available...might not be with all makes for sure...My car Tesla M3 max 48A, always ramps up its charge current over about 10 seconds. Stays at 1-2 for the first several seconds, then ramps up about 5a at a time until current limit reached. I presume it's to avoid hitting the grid with an instant 10kw load.
Our ELR and 500e do the same thing.
also ramping up allows for checking voltage sag... another method to determine actual wiring capacity rather than just assuming every socket is perfectly wired and no wear on contacts
The missing diode check situation can indeed be dangerous if there happens to be no earth connection, so that the fault current goes through a person. This might be rare in the UK (?), but it is definitely common in less developed countries.
Thank you for bringing this up and demonstrating it so visually!
Great video mikeselectricstuff. Really enjoyed it and your critique of the compliance to standards is refreshingly detailed. Give me a sec......there you go - subscribed and all notifications on. Thanks dude - this is awesome stuff. Best wishes my friend.
I have contacted Ohme about the battery optimisation as I had seen it charging above 16A and this is their reply.
“Battery optimisation attempts to charge your car at slower rates where possible, it will also try to keep the battery charged to 50% for as long as possible before completing the charge.
This is why you may have seen the charge schedule set a 16A charge on one occasion and a 32A charge on another, this is the scheduling algorithm re-assessing how Ohme can charge the car.
The speed of charge may be scheduled at different rates throughout the charge session.”
Thanks for this most informative video
Ohme are lucky to get free consultancy considering their naughtiness promising a device has been tested by the independent lab :-/
Not a great look for TÜV either (assuming ohme isn't lying about the certification)
@@teslatrooper They probably had them test it for matching the specified weight...much cheaper and they can still brag about it been tested.
They may well have had it tested; we can't just assume that they're lying about that.
But as mentioned above, if Ohme really did get this tested by TÜV, someone at TÜV must be looking a bit sheepish right now...
Weird. The first time I came across GMR was about six hours ago, reading a Wikipedia article about IBM Deskstar drives (in turn directed from a Reddit thread). Now it gets a mention at 17:49.
Received our Ohme charger a few weeks back, and noticed it now has 2 drainage holes on the top.
I find it interesting that the line side uses North American wiring coloring, while the Type 2 end cord uses more traditional European wire colors.
In the USA the black/white/green colors aren't used for single phase 240v. Those are colors for 120v single phase. Black/red are used for the 220v, white is used for neutral in a three phase, and green for ground.
@@therealjammit To be fair, they actually are used in situations where a neutral is not required. You'd be hard-pressed to find 3 conductor portable cable with just red black and green, and 4 conductor cable for non-120/240V use would be wasteful. Of course you're supposed to relabel the white as red on both ends, but no one usually does this unless its high current industrial stuff.
Very impressive tear-down and testing of this product. You are extremely knowledgeable. Have you worked in the area of functional safety in your professional career? Huge thanks for a fantastic video!
18:13 "primary differential _cureent_"
Seems like I'm not the only one occasionally repeating the wrong leeter in a sentence
Don't think I've ever seen one of Mike's videos without him having a pinched nail
Bet it sent him hopping for a bit!
Maybe not the best unit to use in the bath?
blimey! :D
Dear Mike; What is the best EVSE to use to charge my car in the bath?
Looks perfectly fine to me..
Hi Mike, Thanks for this excellent video. I'm particularly interested from 20:40. I have solar panels a phase angle controlled water heating diverter an Ohme and an EV. I would really like to try using the input pilot signal with the Ohme. I bought my command plug version of Ohme from Octopus Energy. If I can get to it, I think this pilot signal could be opto isolated, what is the input voltage, frequency (1 kHz?), pulse width range to control the pilot signal? How low can the charging current be brought down? Does it change in real time when charging your EV, does it change in steps or continuously with pulse width. I am developing home automation and would like to incorporate a feature of charging my car with sunshine when available. I'd be really interested in any guidance you could offer me.
He explained exactly how it works -- it's a +/-12V square wave at 1kHz, the duty cycle/0.6 is the charge current.
44:30, RCD trips and then it seems to immediately repower itself multiple times. Is there nothing in the standard about requiring a manual reset to clear the error?
I don't recall details but I think whether or not manual reset is needed depends on the country, as there are local differences in regulations, however remember that in normal usage, pulling the plug out is a manual reset
I'm curious, I've heard about connecting EV's to unregulated DC from solar farms etc., how would these react to such scenarios?
And yes, I know the cars internal chargers would have to be built to accept DC by automatically bypassing the PFC and other made-for-AC stuff
Completely infeasible. DC charging puts the charging control in the supply out of the car, if you wanted to be able to attach any random PV farm you would have to change a lot and add expense that nobody wants.
@@irfp460 Well.. not convinved of that.
Whoever that make a car charger would deal with:
Get AC into DC, then use the DC to charge battery via regulator (possibly isolated).
Just as suggested, the PFC bypassed(or used to boost the voltage if needed) should be enough.
Just like cellphone DC charge:
The battery isn't charged with battery directly connected to the USB "charger", but instead go via a charge controller in the phone. (except some of the optional fast-charge "standards")
Maybe give it a go, just be careful as high current DC is unforgiving. I do know some of the V2G chargers use a DC connection directly to the cars battery, this might make more sense, though makes the 'charger' and actual charger.
I hope we will see a teardown of some of your Kona power electronics ;)
Yes, at some point. I am also keeping an eye on salvage auctions for crashed ones to take apart!
@@mikeselectricstuff Excellent :) Somebody had already taken apart a Tesla Model 3 onboard charger, absolutely fascinating stuff : th-cam.com/video/3ARHdRwfxjY/w-d-xo.html
@@LambdaWave84 Hacking a Tesla onboard charger for use in another EV: th-cam.com/video/PMedmbeu8nU/w-d-xo.html
Very good review!
Can the smart charging cable work when a Hyundai for example is set to charge on minimum current (as low as 6A I think)?
0:50 How does ii favor the green energy?
It might charge during sunny or windy periods, for example, to increase the likelyhood the peak supply available on the grid can be used.
what happened to your thumb?
Excellent video, you're like the UK's Electrical 'Jerry Rigs Everything'! Quick question, thinking of getting a Nissan Leaf but will have to charge it with the EVSE (Granny) cable. As the car will be 10M from the nearest socket I'll need to use an extension, can you recommend any, I've read that the cable needs to be 2.5mm2 thickness, would a 1.5mm2 cable be ok as long as it can handle the 2.2Kw load?
1.5mm2 cable will not be safe.
Really good / helpful - Thank you ..
A question - do you know "if" I was to buy the version with the 2 Type 2 connections, and then cut the plug off and hard wired it - would it work? ... ie. does the control lead on the input type 2 do anything / would it be configured and not work if I were to hard-wire the incoming three cables (LNE)? Thank you
Did you managed to get an answer for this?
TIA
I've asked ohme the question there reply was yes that is possible if the work was to be carried out by a competent electrician
Just wonder if there is unlimited data plan on the card? Did they properly secure it?
Could the commando plug be removed and this hard wired? Would this make it the same as the hard wired model?
yes
Great video which explains many things I wasn’t sure of but could you confirm whether this unit requires a TT supply?Many thank
Thanks! Having a feedback loop on charging specs will cost more, having a profile is logistically straight forward and if anything busts they can go back to manufacture fault rather than fault find on the charger itself.
What's with the horizontal position knob? @26:02
not sure
The Ohme logo looks suspiciously like the Ohm speaker manufacturers logo, slightly tweaked but design wise the same.
could totally see this some places use alot of salt for road de-icing those cables aren't exactly short in the car its self. chafing rubbing and corrosion are good ways to get thru a cable sheath. so many things could go wrong with the car its self to make this an issue.
Thank you very much for your efforts
I have an ohme cable and I asked it to restricted to 10a from the factory, it was simple. But how can you upgrade the water egress maybe increase the ip rating, would srink tube work?
Hi Mike, great video thanks. I have one of these that needs a repair. Do you know if anyone that may be able to help? Cheers
I don't think repairing these is generally a good idea. It's better to get a new unit or send it to the manufacturer for repair. If something goes wrong, that's a *lot* of power and could result in some very unsafe conditions.
When recording a video you should disable automatic display sleep on your phone so you don’t have to tap it every five seconds
Is it possible to use the connections for the type 2 to type 2 pilot Comms to retro fit control of charge current. i.e. limit the device to 10A if I am at a camp site for example?
Outstanding video btw. Also found here from BigClive
Yes, you could do that by sending a 12V squarewave to the CP_IN with the required duty cycle.
How about firmware hacking? :) Adding manual 32A somehow that doesn't include adding extra hw?
If you don't want all the comms stuff, it wouldn't be hard to replace the firmware with basic EVSE functionality
27:30 That it charges for about a minute before turning off is annoying if you care about the cycle count of your EV battery. When I was shopping around for EV's that was one of the criteria I looked for. Seeing that this charger would essentially double my battery charge count, I'm put off by that.
That's not how cycles work. A cycle is an equivalent of pulling out and restoring the full capacity of the battery, regardless of how many charging or discharging events that involves. A quick 1 minute charge event that adds 0.01% of the battery's capacity puts 0.01% of a cycle's worth of wear on the battery.
1 minute is not a cycle. It's the total Ah in and out, regardless of how many chunks its charged in
@@mikeselectricstuff In that case I hope other manufacturers have implemented a better solution than Nissan. On my 2014 Leaf I can see the L1/L2 charge count go up.
Yeah, sorry, to correct my first comment: I'm referring to the charge count, not cycle count. That's what's displayed in my App.
@@DominikFeiler Pity they do that as it's not a useful figure - Total kWh in & out, or even just total charge time would be far more meaningful
BTW they are some open source EVSE (TLDR: openevse.com). Unfortunately regulation kinda restrict their usage and bump the price of about 500$CAN for the same thing...
Shit, that's a good name for a company.
Wow! I bet if you tried to pay someone to do testing as thorough as this, it wouldn't be cheap!
Hey mike -- what model is that Hioki multimeter? What are your thoughts on it?
How does the unit manage to regulate amperage/current going through it?
Moritz von Schweinitz it signals the car to draw up to a level by varying the duty cycle of the the pilot signal.
It doesn't regulate. It only sends a signal to the car saying "you can only draw 20 amps from this socket".
great stuff Mike:-)
Can it run Linux?
My guess is that it in fact *already* runs Linux.
Can it charge your electric car whilst running Amiga OS?
I heard it will run crisis
Take the SIM card out the charger for free data
Not tried it I'd be surprised if there weren't significant limits on data, maybe also other restrictions.
The sim propably has a Password. So if you can't figure that out it will be useless
You need the APN for data and I don't see how you would know it. It's useless even if it has no PIN.
@@111chicane You can just sniff that.
@@mikeselectricstuffI've seen sims put in devices with little to no restrictions. They might not expect that anyone would actually open it and use the SIM
Iv'e actually had the big screw glands crack, usually the not, I had a large gauge DC wire put some strain on a name brand connector and crack the inside under the locknut but also it wasnt the most professional installation :)
Hi Mike,
Is there a way to default the charger from 32A to 13A?
TIA
Are you aware that the app exposed your email address?
Mike's email address is publicly known, it is on his website.
Mike exposed his (publicly known) business email by filming and subsequently broadcasting the video.
The same can be done by opening your email client, filming the screen whilst you use it and then uploading the video to TH-cam. Try it, we will let you know if it works.
Is there a way to convert a 32A Commando OHME to a 13(10) A 3-pin?
Yes I've done this and I emailed ohme to restrict the amps to 10a
Do someone know why on the car side thy use German color coding for the cable?
(or better said, EU colors)
Where are you located?
IEC 60 446 (check Wikipedia) - IEC as in *International* Electrotechnical Commission 😉
I’ve seen a number of appliances (sold in the US) use US colors for the power inlet and European colors for after the switch/filter/breaker. Actually kinda nice because it makes tracing wires easier. I suspect the real reason here is just “it’s the cable we could source”.
Такое хорошее так что я рад
Nice one.
So it's single phase? with 3 thick leads. Seems like a waste.
I've always wanted to see the electronics in the handle and not have any box. And to keep the cable simple and inexpensive.
Thick earth is overkill, but electronics in handle is vulnerable to damage if dropped. Also teh box protects the downstream cable if damaged.
@@mikeselectricstuff Sure but overall the advantage should be for it being in the handle. It's no small difference, in portability as well.
I'm puzzled that double relays don't seem to exist for space and cost savings.
@@DanFrederiksen They'd need clearance between the poles so maybe wouldn't be much smaller. Also 2 relays gives some safety redundancy.
@@mikeselectricstuff yeah true. I wonder if relays could be smaller in general.
How important is ground to a charger application? my intuition is that it could easily be avoided but is there a lightning reason or other? the car itself is fairly isolation.
@@DanFrederiksen the EV spec dictates that the car body must be earthed. Most EV drivers just carry a Type 2 to Type 2 cable, these are entirely passive and are quite portable - the portable EVSE only really makes sense for particular use cases.
А это хорошее видео
So efficient that on my brothers Volkswagen Transporter, it doesn't charge at all,unless he disconnects the 12v lead acid battery to reset the vans electronics. For a new electric van, what a load of crap.
How may times did Ohme go through your video before it was ready for posting to TH-cam?
None by the sounds of how critical he was
None. I exchanged a few emails when I found some issues.
And i have the feeling they are pretty happy and also lucky, that someone so skilled took their product for a pretty good roller coaster ride.
Next time you use your phone to demonstrate an app it would be less distracting if you set your phone to "dim the display" to something like 10 minutes rather than a few seconds. Avoiding the need to keep touching the screen. Just sayin.
Thanks for the review. 😉👌
Next time you leave a comment try not being a dickhead. Just sayin.
@@wd41 maybe don't be offended by a simple recommendation. Just sayin
@@DVSProductions maybe don't waste your time on some rude easily offended guy. just saying.
@@wd41 glass houses
@@wd41 pot, kettle comes to mind.
A ring circuit can take 32amps, a 2 x 13amp plugs ring restricted to 20amps should be a nice hack in theory.
4 years ago (or something similar) we got the ability to purchase electrity by the hour. The difference from nordpool pricing were marginal, even with the Swedish state mandated rules with hidden fees, illegal for energy companies to disclose. The Swedes should go with the Norwegians, with $10000 annual tax relief for EV. Including the $2000000 upfront subsidies.
Du set var ingen dålig subvention det.... Vad ska du köpa för din, en Rimac?
Regarding to charging for a longer battery life , might be only to 80% (or near that) of full charge.
Not in the case of cars that don't give Ohme access to state of charge, such as Hyundai/Kia. My one-off test of Ohme in this mode (on an ioniq) just resulted in low charging currents. 6.6kW isn't high anyway, Ioniq can take 70kW, so I don't bother.
Это видео
ay mandaw ka uyam
2:19 giving an Android app the login credentials of your car is equivalent to posting them on Facebook, or not locking your car at all.
mojoblues66 That is not quite correct! Be sure this was considered! The last thing Ohme wants to do, is to expose you to a security vulnerability. If you are worried about it don’t wait to contact Ohme, but be sure this security issue was considered in the development of the whole system. Thanks for your feedback and for your interest in our product. Critical user feedback is crucial for our mission.
Fud.
44:10 thank me later. Spoiler. Nothing happens.
not thanking you later. twat. the entire video is extremely informative and worth watching.
@@AureliusR you are welcome 😊
Wireless thyristor
it is an OEM product by China company KEDESEN, the build quality is very bad
And that is precisely why I would only use the OEM device that came with the EV I purchased; that is to say: if I were to buy a Tesla Model S/3/X/Y (Yes, even in the new 85kWh models), I would use the Tesla EVSE that came with the Tesla vehicle. Somewhat recently, I had to replace the battery in my BlackBerry Curve 8900 and I insisted that I get an OEM battery from BlackBerry for the device. Thank goodness I had the original OEM charger from the previous device I had that got stolen.
Uh, we can clearly see the build quality for ourselves and it looks fine to me.
I wouldn't pay any company anything for a 16A charger (except the parts and shipping of course).
I would just build one myself ...
"Green" energy...
Yup, UK grid at this moment, 12.8GW Wind (41%), 7.4GW Nuclear (24%), 1.5GW Biomass (5%), Gas 5GW (17%), Coal 1.4GW (4%)
Your use is offset by renewable sources only. At least 25% of UK energy comes from wind and another 20-25% from nuclear, as well as imports from France (primarily nuclear) and the Netherlands (primarily wind).
@@edcooper2396 And that's in the dead of winter! Over the past summer we had rather nice amounts of electricity produced by the increasing number of solar PV farms around the country; didn't we have a couple of days of using absolutely no coal for electricity? There are loads of those farms visible from driving along the M4 and A303 in the Reading/Andover/Basingstoke sort of area :)
am I the only one who think 32 amp is tiny . when I think EV charger I think a couple of hundreds amps low voltage power supply! why on earth would you charge your battery at a lower rate than the maximum output? if you are at home and on the grid why limit yourself?!
How often will you get home at 0% and need 100% in an hour or two?
Overnight charging is fine for the vast majority of users.
@@mikeselectricstuff I have a traditional gas powerd car. I cad refill faster than I can empty my tank. I'm probably stupid but I expect at least the same from EV. so I guess 7kW is good enough if your goals is overnigt top up (but you could probably get away with 2.3kw ( traditional 10A plug).
It's probably just that I don't see what use I could get of an EV. I currently have a 3km comute and I could probably do it with a small EV as an everyday thing (if I had the finance for a second car). But in that case a couple of hundreds of watts charger would be good enough.
those semi specialised installation just don't do it for me.
@@mikeselectricstuff but don't waste your time with me. making a follow up on the sim card sounds much better.... (Just a small suggestion).
32 Amps @ 110 volts (US) would be 3520 watts, but at 230 volts (The EU standard is 230 V +6%/−10%, so anywhere from 210 to 240) would be 7360 watts. Forget about the amps, it is all about the power! And the higher the amps the more power you are using to heat up the cables (I squared R losses), or you could spend more money on much thicker lower resistance cables to reduce the heating. But there is an upper point where you need to start making the cables hollow. At 60 Hz copper has a skin depth of ~8.5 mm [~0.33"] (or at 50Hz copper ~9.3mm[0.37"]).
Pumping power into the batteries really fast will also reduce the battery's life - though the effect is negligible if you just charge it on a quick charger once in a while, but it will start taking it's toll if you do it every night.
даааааааааааааааааааааааааааааааааааааааааааааааааааа
EDIT THESE VIDEOS DOWN !!!!!!!!!!!! VIDEO IS TO LONG !!!!!!!!!!!!!1
lol no
@@heikovanderlaar3780 grow up
@@johnneybot9542 lol no
@@johnneybot9542 Consider this a nasty email? Grow up and stop posting shit here.
If you don't like it - don't watch. You can't dictate to content creators. It's you that should grow up.
BRAG VIDEO DON'T SEND THIS B.S. TO MY INBOX
Unsubscribe. Go on. Buttons right there
you good bruh?
@@Mikecom32 next long video gets reported for spam abuse
Not sure what you're on about. The videos are lengthy because they contain a boatload of information. There's little if any "dead time" that could be edited out.
@@johnneybot9542 Spam and abuse? Glass houses dude!